Mine is black with no windows but they all have the same front.
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Mine is black with no windows but they all have the same front.
Yea i was just going to buy it and then respray it black, i still might just get one at the end of the month because i have a couple hundred £ spare and have always looked at buying that case purely because there is so much you can do with it.
Just get a MM.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubar
Here's a few pics. (I live in a dust factory)Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
I cut this with a jig saw. It's kinda sloppy but I never look at this side.
Attachment 67054
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There's another 50z in the bottom of the 5.25 drive bays.
It's one big loop. Pump/8800gtx/rad/cpu/pump/rad/and back to the bottom pump with a T just before each pump for fill, drain and air removal.
The rads I have require to much airflow so I use the noisy fans.
PA120.2s are the way to go, with quiet fans mounted outside the case.
Not keen on Mountain Mod cases, All of them are cubes which i dont really like the look of.
I'm also a fan of 18 cent a foot 1/2" tubing from my local hardware store.
It stays clear and works as good as the expensive stuff for me.
Cant even find the TT Mozart TX Silver w/no window in the uk :(
Anyone know where i could get the one without the window because all the TT approved dealers dont have that model only the window models.
That Rad mod you have done is really good btw.
This TT is pretty square too... :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Scubar
Its more rectangle because of its height though instead of just being a small square on wheels :)
Hi all, as promised here is another quick update. I installed the Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller into the (oh so worthless) 7" drive bay. This bay is meant for some gimmicky bull:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: that I'll never use so I figured I would make it more useful. Plus I need the space down below ;-)
I also modded the LEDs by adding a 12k resistor to each. Easy since they plug right into a connector on the Rheobus board. The LEDs are STILL quite bright, I may have to try a different kind of LED since I like them super mellow ... or I might try sanding down the LEDs until they're flat and maybe using some superglue to make them more opaque ...
The rest of my water cooling gear should arrive on Tuesday, hopefully I'll be able to get started with that next week. Until then, hang tight!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod01.jpg
Panel removed and LEDs modded
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod02.jpg
Cut off and modified supports
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod03.jpg
Dremel some holes (a steady hand I have not)
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod04.jpg
Ready for fitment
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod05.jpg
Top view
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod06.jpg
In the case
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod07.jpg
Looks better than stock after some touch-up paint
wow nice job
lookin' good! keep em' coming! :-)
I personally don't like those old fashion fan control knob. may be you can consider some auto control via temp like Aquaero or BigNg..etc. Expensive but worth it.
Remember to put some noise pad for look and noise. I put my pump on it.
Here's my work if you dont mine sharing your post. Still waiting few part for the second loop.
Found one but in chinese tho, may be create account neededQuote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
http://bbs.ocqq.com/viewthread.php?t...=mozart&page=1
For myself, i just drill some new holes, that's all, no cutting
how's that enzo cpu block? good?
could you take some more internal shot's of your hardware please cheers
The D-tek usually sits at 30-31 idle, the Enzo sits at 28C most of the time. But i have changed new coolant and updated my bios between that. SO im not sure if that have effect the temp diff. The new bios said cpu temp sensor will be updated for more accurate measurement. Well, at least it is not worst that D-tek, look better, strong backplate, good built quality, no nozzle need, no gap problem..etc. NO excuse not to buy it:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
That's all i got now, the second loop still waiting for some parts to come, hose, fitting, temp sensor, Ultra X3, 2 x Silentstar HD-single Block( Can only fit one double at the top slot where you can install a LCD, have to order another 2 single HD Block)
The second loop will be:
Loop2(1/4): DDC+3.2(Petra Top) -> PA120.2 -> MIPS RAM Freezer4 -> Asus fusion chipsets block -> Silentstar HD-Dual Block 1 -> Silentstar HD-single Block 2A -> Silentstar HD-single Block 2B -> Pumps cooled by Alphacool HDD3CU/Plexi 3.5" HD Block -> EK-RES150
The pump set will be sitting on other side of the case, still struggling if i should add the third loop, PA120.1 or PA120.2 fits to the harddisk compartment(Since all my HD will go 5.25 compartment, but not sure if the PA fits over there) and change to SLI. But its difficult to place the third pump set plus i dont like internal rad, it might heat up the internal temp, what ya think? should i do it....or do it all with 2 loop...
This is my first build, 2 months ago i am looking at the us299 Kit, now spend almost few G now, worst that drug. :help:
Nice mod, and the Enzotech block looks pretty spiffy...:up:
Fuzion with nozzles and bow spank the Enzo block.
nikhsub1's testing results
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Pretty much the best around right now, at least thebest that is publicly available.
Thanks for the pics of the 2 different dual-rad setups. I was planning on doing the first one, with the custom aluminum plate (already have some 1/16" aluminum here on-hand), but the 2nd version with the rad grills looks cleaner.
As for original poster, I like the fanbus work, looks clean. I was wondering what I was going to do with that spot myself, and planned on possibly going with a custom bay res with Danger Den fillports coming out the top recessed area.
Okay, let's get started! Here's some pics of the gear I'll be using:
a) Sythe s-flex fans with super-crazy 150,000 hour MTBF
b) MCP350 pumps, quiet but powerful
c) Apogee GTX, one of the better coolers available and super easy to install
d) Sweet little keyboard and cheap but functional MS Scroll Mouse
e) Magicool Extreme Slim Profile radiators - what makes these special is their 120mm width - allowing for a clean install without modding my Mozart case at all!
Notice that the 2 rads are different. They are the same model, but apparently different production runs. I have since replaced the silver-finish one (steel riveted housing) with another all-black one (thanks to Performance-PCs for great service)
The newer version is much cleaner, has no rivets, and the screw holes are tapped better. Make sure if you order one you get the newer version.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...onents_001.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...onents_002.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...onents_003.jpg
Work is kicking my ass, and family life is very busy but I am making progress. More soon!
Sunayknits, is that rig up and running at the moment (even if it's only on air)? If it is (or if you're going to test it soon), can you do me a big favour and really load out that PSU? Ie Prime95/Orthos/OCCT on CPU + ATI Tool's Artifact Tester or Fur Benchmark on the GPUs. The DA units (mainly 550, 650, 750 and 850 watt units, revision 1.0 or 2.0, but not 1.5 or 2.5) sometimes have a problem with making a fairly noticeable whine when under load. It'd be interesting to see if yours has that "problem". If it does, don't bother trying to RMA it back to Silverstone, they tend to be a bit anal about whine RMAs.
Looking like a very nice build log.
Eller
I've had it drawing up to 500 watts from the wall (HL Episode 2), and have not noticed any kind of whine/noise whatsoever.
I have since replaced it with a DA850 (used the DA750 for another build) and it's just as quiet.
These are the quietest, highest quality power supplies I have ever used.
Bought them both from NewEgg, so likely they have the latest version.
Can the server board like tyan or Skulltrail fit in this case?