Very nice work. I really like the implementation of dual outlets for performance and even water discharge. :up:
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Very nice work. I really like the implementation of dual outlets for performance and even water discharge. :up:
Thanks!
Appreciate all the comments and looking for suggestions as I progress. I looked a t single outlet only and I think it's possible but to do it right I think I need a sine vise or table to do some tapered ports. I could also cut a 1/4" channel all the way around, but I think you'd get too much flow favoring one side, so for now I went with the triple to start off...center inlet, dual outlet.
Got a good start on the top block after throwing away my first shot (barbs were too close).
Learning alot of little quicks here and there. Using WD40 for all cuts, tapping with the drill press really helps alot...etc.
Anyway...here are the top block pics and where I'm at now:
Underside:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock3.jpg
Top down view:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock4.jpg
Getting there..:D
EXCELLENT work. cant wait to see this thing hooked up to a rig :)
Wootage ! :up: :woot:
Looking great !
Are you going to glue the two acrylic pieces together? You can lightly clamp them together so they are properly alligned, and then use a small syringe with a 26 gauge needle or similar to squirt some cloroform into the space between the acrylic pieces. As long as you are careful in applying the cloroform and go around the perimeter, you can have a great and lasting bond between acrylic pieces that will also be completely clear. It's something I tried once when I found out that cloroform can be used as a glue for acrylics, plus I have access to a gallon of the stuff =)
Yeah, right next to the Daiquiri mix. :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by MegadetHCl
Nice work, Martin!
Edit:
It looks like this is all good, but I might be seeing it wrong - it seems like the threaded side of the barbs might be protruding down into the outlet (and inlet) grooves. I would imagine that this would be bad, but I'm sure you've got it under control.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
As for potential performance, I hate to be a wet blanket, but I don't think this design is going to work quite like you're envisioning. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that with your 45 degree cutting angle to form the pins, you've provided a very low-resistance path from the inlet to both outlets, which may result in less-than-the-best heat transfer along the most direct path, as well as create some low flow areas in the further corners of the block. I think the diagonal line from inlet to outlets in the best way to go, but I might consider a different pin layout in order to put more obstruction along the most direct path from inlet to outlet.
Also, I understand where you're going with the thin slots, but it doesn't seem like slotted outlets would be much help in terms of directing flow out of the block. In the end the water has to get through the outlet barbs, so I can't see why the outlet slots would make this easier. It seems to me that a slight, concave, rounded curve to direct water toward the outlet barb would be best - you didn't try to form a slot in the outlet of your MCP655, did you? ;)
Damn fine work..I have no idea how well it will perform but I am really impressed
looks very nice :up:
Looks excellent!
Interesting...I had no idea you could use it for that. Unfortunately I don't even know where I can buy it. I did however buy a tube of special lexan silicone at my home depot. These top blocks are made out of lexan, not acrylic..but I'm not sure that matters at all for glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by MegadetHCl
I've been debating over gluing vs o-ring, but leanig towards gluing the top and mid blocks, and o-ring for the base for pin cleanig. I-d need two or three o-rings on the top/mid joining which wouldn't be easy, and it'll probably look nicer just glued if it's nice and clear.
Think I'll try the laxan clear silicone for the top..:up:
No, the daqari is in it's own cabinet above the fridge...it's been stocked pretty well after the second kid was born...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by NicePants42
The threads only extend through the top block and end flush with the mid block. I only have a tapered tap so the threads had to go all the way through. But no they don't protrude into the midblock at all...kind of hard to see with the lexan though.
The slots in the top block are meant to work as small reservoirs/pipes to collect the sheeted flow from the base and put it back to a conduit. To really direct flow even more evenly I'd need to make it a quad outlet (which I did seriously consider...but the bottom line regarding restriction for any nozzle type block is the nozzle. All the other restrictions are relatively insignificant. I did purposly used a ball endmill though to radius what I can and I think the slots are large enough that more of a reservoir action exists similar to the fuzion.
The idea behind the slots is that I first wanted the jets to match the core orientation. Secondly, I wanted the flow to sort of split like two sheets of paper as it hits the base and run in a more distributed sheet flow like action as it manuevered through the pins. All pins matrixes have some sort of direct path. In my layout the shortest path would be straight up, this requires it to bounce through the pin to get there. Resistance in the pins is what forces the water to go in all directions. No different from the fuzion...if aal the water only went towards the outlet barb, it would only flow on one corner but it doesn't because as the water flow increases in any one area, pressure drop/resistance increases, so water takes all the paths between the pins until pressure drop is equal in all areas. The only area of concern for me is the areas just left and right of the center slot nozzle, I probably won't get much flow there the way it is and have considered making some very small channels along that perimeter to move some flow horizontally as well. In the end, how you direct flow around is really a balance of restriction. Highest priority is directly over the core which the slotted nozzle should do, secondary is the pins, the surface area they provide and the turblent effect of mixing the water and bouncing it around in there against copper.
But that's all concept, just need to finish it and try it out...could be back to the drawing board who knows..:D
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Yeah, the mill is tons of fun, even if it does take alot of time and doesn't turn out, at least I'll have satisfied my curiosity. You just can't go wrong with tools like this.
Had to hang up my clubs too. Maybe I can machine myself a ball mark remover for the heck of it. Not that I need to use one much with my bogey handicap, but when I do...it would be in style!!:up: :D
I think it could go either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by NicePants42
Apogee GT:
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/APOGEEGT.asp
(uses his current method)
The GTX also uses that. The only thing is that the diamonds might have been better off with a less square shape. Dunno. But that's why he's testing stuff out--so that we will know :cool:
Well, figured I'd post a couple of updated pics.
Did the sandblasting on the base, and I quickly learned I need to find "Finer" sand, must have spend a half hour just picking little bits of sand that got stuck...:eek:
Live and learn.
Then I went ahead and bored out the nozzles just a little bit more, no problem.
Then finished drilling out the top, and did a trial run with my Lexan specific clear silcone, that will work really well too.
So, I bolted it all up and finished off the outside edges, then a touchup on the base, and then decided to go ahead and step the base per Nicksub1's experiement on XS (Seems to give LGA775 owners bow or better than bow performance).
Now I just need to take it all back apart, clean it up real nice, and seal it up. Then I need to make a top plate. I have an idea there to eliminate torsion on the block, should make for a more consistently good mount.
Anyhow, here are the latest pics...almost there..:D
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock5.jpg
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock6.jpg
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock7.jpg
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock8.jpg
Looks fantastic Martin. I'll take 50. Can you deliver within the next week or so? :p:
:eek:
I cant wait for more pics, And some test results.
I wouldn't expect it to have some crazy good results, But It will be interesting to see how it does.
I do agree with whoever commented on the pins not providing resistance, Though I cant think of a way around it, Since the outlets have those slots, There will always be a few direct paths.
looking forward to more!
EDIT: LOL Linus :rofl:
Nice work Martin but just wondering if you are going to place a gasket in your final thought process to prevent water leakage ?
NICE pictures, Martin. I didn't even realize that you were putting jets in the inlet groove.
I hope it kicks ass.
You even took the stepped idea :)
Great block there, hope it will perform great as well...
Have found Acryfix 192 (methyl methacylate glue) best for glueing acrylic.
You may be interested in This piece on glueing acrylic. The other water users who want no leaks. lol
Looks like your frities are piling up nicely.
looking forward to testing... and result's....
That looks really well done, anxious to see peformance results.
Martin very good work! You've more patience than I and can obviously use a mill better too :D You have PM.