Xtreme Xterior Cooler

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Originally Posted by Pete

I can get you a 0-10 PSI presure gauge but due to them being lowe presure reading there really costly which sucks!

0-15PSI works fine i found, mines only a 40mm OD as well

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Thanks for the offer! I imagine anything out of the mass produced norm would be high. Probably better places to spend that money like more aluminum and acrylic...

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Originally Posted by XS_RoB

Looking Great Cyber! Lov'in the thinking OUTSIDE the BoX!

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Ha Well thanks...:up:

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Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

CD
only need to grease the cpu socket for extra caution

No worry for condensation for -13c outside, ambiant 22c , my temps in canadian winter with rad only no fan with case fans keeps sweat to min, CD the shroud should be chalked an rad lowerd off the alu frame so the rejected heat can be exhausted proper...not recycled from plexiglas/alu frame. great handy work CD, i hope looking at picture of rad (front side)the left is the return and the right is input ;)

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Yes indeed...I can bet a Canadian winter would almost be phase :p:

Yep the orientation of the pumps etc are all correct. I don't think there's much recycling going on...the air stream is pretty powerful...the Panaflo is running full tilt...but the next revision will enclooe everything a bit more and make it a better "package" to keep insects and other nuisances for infesting and otherwise dirupting the operation of the apparatus.

For one I think I will stealth the tubbng so it isn't such an obvious "rig" and looks more like a litlte AC unit..stress on little..I don't want to hang twenty pounds of cooler off the window.

Thanks for the advice :)

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Originally Posted by The_Beast

the people living next door must think your cooling meth

still really cool (bad pun) I should do that, where ambients temps are 0F

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Where I live it would not be an odd thing to be thinking...high power consumption...bright lights in varrious outbuildings at all hours of the night...

We get a lot of helicopters patrolling these wooded undeveloped areas looking for the activites typical of rural Americe :p: reefer plantaitions. stills, meth labs...

Ah, I love winter. Makes the heat produced from F@H not that noticable! :up:

Agreed!

How cold would it have to be before condensations begins to be a problem? sub 0 degrees?

I have the posibility of doing about the same, but here in Denmark winter tends to be pretty cold.. (well not canada like.. but still :-) )

All you need to do is pack the socket with dielectric grease and line the tubes in and out of the case with foam sleeve. Piece of cake. Considering the benefits I hardly see condensation as a factor to hold you back.

What percentage of glycol will you have to run and what performance hit will it create?

That's a good question. Right now I have added about 2 0Z on Pentosin to 1 quart of water. It rarely dips into subfreezing here in the Winter...and I run the rig 24/7 (currently running BOINC :)) so I doubt it would slush up on me...

Thanks for reminding me...sometimes I overlook the simple stuff...lol.

I just checked the Pentosin bottle and it appears that I have used less than 1/4 of a 4 OZ bottle...so it's probably more like Sherlock Holmes would prefer: 7% :p:

You know, the ultimate solution would be some type of earth radiator buried about 10' - 20' underground. At that depth, the surrounding earth temperature = the average annual air temperature - about 50 degrees F for a temperate zone. The temperature is constant from season to season. You would have to design some type of system to conduct (not radiate) the heat to the surrounding earth without corroding. A cement tank might be a good option to circulate coolant through if you can figure out how to prevent cracks.

It would definitely be going to an extreme length to cool a PC but it would be killer! The heat capacity of the surrounding earth is infinite for all practical purposes. You could cool ANY system that way, silently.

your talking about something along the lines of a septic tank there real genius plus your trying to remove heat the trick is to use something that wont degrade like plastic. something along the lines of what they use for raidant heat. do note if you did that you would need something like a 1/2 hp circulator pump. that alone requires a transformer though im not too sure on that.

Awesome idea man!

It has been done and you don't need to go down anything like 20'.

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Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

yip its called Geo-cooling just below frostline is enough

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Thanks for the link. That notion had crossed my mind in the past. I might still get around to trying that out one day. I was thinking about using a pony keg...but an oxygen bottle looks to be a good size.

The best vessel would be an aluminum scuba tank. The oxygen bottle is probably steel - a poor choice. Steel cylinders have thinner walls than aluminum and are very susceptible to corrosion. A typical 80CF @ 3000 PSI scuba cylinder will have a wall thickness of of something like 3/8" and are very corrosion resistant. Furthermore, aluminum oxide actually inhibits further corrosion while rust on on teel tank begats more rust. It's best to use a bare cylinder. All paint does is trap moisture underneath - encouraging corrosion.

I''ve worked full-time in the recreational dive industry for 12 years by the way and I can't BELIEVE I didn't think of using a scuba tank!

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Originally Posted by Real Genius

The best vessel would be an aluminum scuba tank. The oxygen bottle is probably steel - a poor choice. Steel cylinders have thinner walls than aluminum and are very susceptible to corrosion. A typical 80CF @ 3000 PSI scuba cylinder will have a wall thickness of of something like 3/8" and are very corrosion resistant. Furthermore, aluminum oxide actually inhibits further corrosion while rust on on teel tank begats more rust. It's best to use a bare cylinder. All paint does is trap moisture underneath - encouraging corrosion.

I''ve worked full-time in the recreational dive industry for 12 years by the way and I can't BELIEVE I didn't think of using a scuba tank!

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Mixed metals is not a good thing. :shakes:

Stainless Steel is not used in pressure vessels because it's not strong enough. It's corrosion resistance is also over-stated.

SIGFever, as I pointed out in another thread, two conditions have to be met for galvanic corrosion to occur:

1. Two or more dissimilar metals must be submerged in the same electrolytic fluid and,

2. The metals must be electrically connected.

The tank would be at earth-ground potential, obviously. I haven't built a water cooling system yet but I don't see why the copper blocks would be connected to anything. They're mounted to non-conductive chip housings, right? I notice there is usually a screwed-down clamp over the block. If the screws contact the case or the pcb ground plane anywhere, the clamp should be insulated from the block.

You CAN have aluminum and copper in the same loop as long as they are not electrically connected to each other.

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Originally Posted by Real Genius

Stainless Steel is not used in pressure vessels because it's not strong enough. It's corrosion resistance is also over-stated.

SIGFever, as I pointed out in another thread, two conditions have to be met for galvanic corrosion to occur:

1. Two or more dissimilar metals must be submerged in the same electrolytic fluid and,

2. The metals must be electrically connected.

The tank would be at earth-ground potential, obviously. I haven't built a water cooling system yet but I don't see why the copper blocks would be connected to anything. They're mounted to non-conductive chip housings, right? I notice there is usually a screwed-down clamp over the block. If the screws contact the case or the pcb ground plane anywhere, the clamp should be insulated from the block.

You CAN have aluminum and copper in the same loop as long as they are not electrically connected to each other.

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Galvanic reactions or electrolysis as I know it from the yachting industry are present any time two dis-similar metal are in electrical contact. In the case of a PC cooling loop that would be the fluid--which is usually conductive to some degree.

Although mixed metals can be prevented from reacting by using chemicals in the cooling loop there is still a slight chance of corrosion from any air that might be in the loop too.

I too have used mixed metals in loops and have an extant example of this in service. After 2 years I see no sign of corrosion..but I also used a 25% mixture of Zerex with the distilled.

For those of us looking for maximum efficacy from the medium the use of chemicals is a no no as anything added to the distilled will reduce it's ability to transfer heat.

I like the idea of a large copper tube sunk into the earth--but not sure how it holds up to the acids present in most soil.

Interesting stuff...

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Galvanic reactions or electrolysis as I know it from the yachting industry are present any time two dis-similar metal are in electrical contact. In the case of a PC cooling loop that would be the fluid--which is usually conductive to some degree.

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Yeah, I'm a dive boat captain so I'm well familiar with it too. I don't think the fluid can be the connector AND the electrolyte. You need a complete circuit. Current will flow from the cathode to the anode (aluminum to copper in this case) through the fluid and return via the electrical connection. The electrical connection is usually physical contact between the two metals such as when a bronze prop is mounted to a steel shaft. I suspect a lot of pc cooling installations inadvertently ground the physically-separated metals like the blocks and radiators when it could be easily prevented. If they are both grounded, we have a return path and electrolysis can occur.

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Originally Posted by Real Genius

Yeah, I'm a dive boat captain so I'm well familiar with it too. I don't think the fluid can be the connector AND the electrolyte. You need a complete circuit. Current will flow from the cathode to the anode (aluminum to copper in this case) through the fluid and return via the electrical connection. The electrical connection is usually physical contact between the two metals such as when a bronze prop is mounted to a steel shaft. I suspect a lot of pc cooling installations inadvertently ground the physically-separated metals like the blocks and radiators when it could be easily prevented. If they are both grounded, we have a return path and electrolysis can occur.

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Not to argue but the field given off by most yachts even at anchor is strong enough to corrode the zincs on boats up to 150 yards away. This is a fact. The salt in the water makes it highly conductive--and the EM fields thrown off by charging equipment and the general wiring of the boat (as everything is bonded) is very powerful. That is why keeping the sacrificial zincs up to snuff is so critical--especially in harbor or when docked for long periods.

An improperly bonded or wired vessel can rapidly corrode the zincs on surrounding boats and lead to damage unless the situation is noted and remedied.

In a PC loop it is not exactly the same deal..but indeed the water acts as the electrolyte in that it makes the transfer of ions possible due to it's conductivity...this effect is independent of pump action or any other EM effect from the PC. It's like a battery.

Any easy proof. Dip a chunk of aluminum and a chunk of copper in some water and make sure they do not touch and take a voltage reading. To really make the point thow in a pich of table salt. :)

nice, but living in NOVA as well it hasn't been that cool lately

My ambient tonight is 18.6C outside and 25.2C inside...that's 6.6C lower than I might other wise be getting :D

But yeah it has been annoyingly UN Fall-like--and today got up in the high 70F range which is NOT what I want right now...:p: