I've always said to use copper elbows if you want the least for resistance. lol. Nice that someone finally tested it.
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I've always said to use copper elbows if you want the least for resistance. lol. Nice that someone finally tested it.
[QUOTE=I tried to get 7/16" ID tubing over the 5/8" OD flares of a 1/2" copper tee, and the tee is just too darn big. How did you do it?[/QUOTE]
Try using a tiny bit of dishsoap on the fitting.
I ended up using an old bottle of 99.5% glycerine I had lying around, works pretty good as a lubricant... I slabbered it all over the fitting and in the tubing and eventually I got it on... I'm such a weakling. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by ElEctric_EyE
Using dish soap is a great idea too, thanks. I would've tried that if I didn't have the glycerine.
Put the end of the tubing in hot water. No lube.
With Tygon 3603 I can just push it on with force, but with Masterkleer 7/16, I prestreatch the tubing a little before hand just using some square nosed plyers, pushing the tubing on as far as I can and expanding the plyers in reverse. Then it slips on.
I've even managed to get 1/2" tubing on a 3/4" barb this way, but that too some serious work.
Also you want to make sure the copper end is deburred nicely or it can try to start cutting in..
If you really want low resistance then use "Long Radius" 90's. His picture is a "Short Radius" 90 and are quite a bit more restrictive. If you have tubing benders just bend a 90 out of 1/2" copper or stainless for easy tubing assembly and no scale inside the tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
:rofl: yes so true
BTW, just so I'm not misleading folks that I'm still making these.
I'm not, sorry. I'm working on my home projects for a few months so all fabrication projects have stopped.
I would recommend that you consider these Q-Pex 3/4" brass fittings, they are the next best thing to copper.
Elbows:
You can find these at alot of home improvement centers. They have nicely radiused interior bends, so they will have miminal pressure drop.
http://www.pexsupply.com/categories....D=546&brandid=
http://www.pexsupply.com/img/categor...opex-elbow.gif
Tees:
http://www.pexsupply.com/categories....D=552&brandid=
http://www.pexsupply.com/img/categor...dropex-tee.gif
Ah nice I saw a bunch of those at my local hardware store, and was wondering how they would impact my loop. Thanks!
LOL, talking about those nice tees, here's mine being used (I even used a PEX brass plug as well, 1/2" ones for my tubing so it's slighty oversized). The total cost is less than 1 buck for both :Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1374.jpg
Very nice! Another Canuck too! I like your build log!
I'm using 2 of those 90's, 2 tees and 2 plugs :)
I love Canadian tire :p
Martins 90s and Ts looked better. :)
Wow, I've been using copper 90* fittings in my rigs since I started WC'ing.
I use the 1/2" fittings and warm the fittings and the tubing up with boiling water
then slip the tubing over the fittings to get a tight fit. When the fittings and the tubing cool down, it is such a tight fit that there is no need for clamps. These are currently in my Gigabyte 3D Aurora with a BIX II mounted on the outside rear w/ 4 90* fittings to get the tubing in the case.
There is any info about Bitspower Crystal L Block?
http://www.mountainmods.com/images/i...g/BP-LB-CL.jpg
Thanks Martin, I'm going to have to remember this for when I go water.
I have some personal experience with these. If your barbs don't have extremely short threading don't go with them. The EK and D-Tek barbs have longer threads, the bitspower barbs may work. Because the threading is too long you can't screw them in all the way and if you try they crack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox
I ordered a handful for giggles . . .I personally think Martin should work with DD to get some cool bends into commerical production ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox
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