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I'd look over Liang's documentation on the D5 before messing with that, seems these are frequency controlled. I read that the variable pump will hold a set speed irrelevent of the input voltage, to the limits of the pump operating at a certain voltage.
Liang's description of how this works:
Through microprocessor technology,
the Ecocirc pump converts the DC input into 3 phase AC output
at the precise frequency and voltage for optimum efficiency.
Speed controller
The integrated speed controller provides a wide range of control
and can be easily adjusted by turning a dial in the pump end.
It can be adjusted to vary the hydraulic performance and/or
the electrical power consumption. Regardless of the setting,
the pump always starts with maximum torque. This ensures a
reliable start even at the lowest speed. The pump output does not vary according to the input voltage. The current draw is
altered as the input voltage changes. This is advantageous in
applications where a defined pump performance is required,
despite a varying voltage supply.
Ahhh, so we're probably SOL on modifying it then?Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
Here is a picture of the pot on the D5 Vario
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...D5varioPot.jpg
And this is the same location as the D5 Basic without pot:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...basicNoPot.jpg
Here is the no pot full size:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...basicNoPot.jpg
The only difference I can see is the missing pot and what appears to be two resistors undernieth.
interesting, run a multimeter on that basic!
What should I check? Voltage at the motor contacts?:confused:
no at the bare resistors on the basic
You missed the point, the pump uses an oscillator, thus to control speed you alter the oscillators frequency by changing the resistance in the RC network with a pot!
You are correct, a Rheostat is a nichrome wound for controlling current directly, not in a PWM circuit how ever, as they change the frequancy not the current.
lmao, i just made it up. so what would he do?
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Xeon th MG Pony
My electronics experience is limited to audio/video and enough basics to do a few of my electronics learning lab excercises, but this circuit is a bit beyond my abilities. To me it looks like we have the exact same motor except for this missing pot and the two resistors undernieth, so I'm sure someone that knows what they are doing to modify a basic model and turn it up to setting 5 where the vario runs at. I'll wait until that right person buys one of these basics models. In the mean time, I'm putting my system back together..:D
Take a multimeter to the Vario's pot and see what what ohms you have on '5', then compare the fixed pump's resister ohm reading and you will know what to add or change to make that one run at '5' speed. There is a chance you may need to de-solder the pot and resistor on either pump to get an accurate reading, but if you really want to speed up that fixed pump, just gotta put the right resister into it. Good thing you have the Vario as a reference to go by.
I couldn't measure a cpu temp difference between running 12v or 18v (I had a 18v adapter laying around) in a 3 block loop with a 120.3 rad or even using a much better pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekFSE
I did see a measureable temp difference doing these:
- lapping
- better waterblock
- better thermal paste
- external rad
- running separate loops
As long as you don't have one of the weakest pumps being sold on the market chances are you will not get (measurably) better temps from switching to a higher powered pump.
they could be using a perallel resister set up there, where the pot is in line with one of the bottom ones?
Hmmm I think I'll take a closer look at my old D4, I was thinking of adding a tack in it might as well se what ells could be don
Liangs MCP (D4/5) 650/655 series has been the best in reliability, I love them
anymore info on this??
I am wanting to mod my outlet housing to see if we could get better temps.
One more thing.. Did you notice any temp difference at all after this mod???Quote:
Originally Posted by the highlander
Martin, I've been curious about being able to cut off the barbs and tap the housing for G1/4". Is it possible?
Why would you want to do that??? i am guessing its possible... but... unless it provides more diameter... i see no reason to do it... aside to that martin has stated that enlarging the inlet does nothing. I have done the mod today..and it looks to be pumping a bit more... I didn't port it much, but i did remove the barb which was protruding... I think it was a good mod...Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I did a few other things to shorten the length of the tubes...
We'll see...
So I can have more options. I don't buy into the "1/2" I.D. tubing is the be all/end all" it's been hyped up to be over the years. Cathar's recent re-evaluation of the topic more or less validates my thinking. I'm not saying 1/2" is bad mind you, just not my style. I prefer 12mm x 8mm tubing with QF's and have started to mess around a little with 10mm x 6.5mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by the highlander
Actually.. what i wanted to do was use a 3/8 tubing for the outlet of the Fuzion... and back..Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
That way i can have a bit more pressure inside the fuzion.. just like the thermostats do on engines.
I run all 3/8ths inside my servers, I use half inch trunk lines.
Going back to this question. Has anyone tapped there MCP655 for barbs? If so, may I see some pics?Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
please email stephen@swiftech.com he does the testing :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Sorry to drag this back up but those of us interested in this never got an answer, and now that Martin's back...;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I think it's probably doable, but you might have to cut off the barb below the thin OD so you have enough wall thickness to provide the threads some strength.
I was thinking of going 3/8" NPT which would be even bigger, but I think the real gain is on the outlet side especially if you could straighten out the flow and tap in the barb just right to get that straight exit.
Thanks!!:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
:up: Sweet, thanks Martin. You rock!
I had planned on cutting them there if this was possible. Time to get a D5 and see how it compares to a DDC myself.