Project: Onslaught U2-UFO Build

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Originally Posted by serialk11r

Try adding water as the pump is pumping :D IE filling up the cyclone.

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been trying that. Also flashing the system.

Dude forget about setting this system to medium or high. The thing pulls it all the way down.

And i have an additional 6 inches of tubing at the top with a brass plug. And it pulls that water down almost 3/4.

This pump is insane. Im gonna see if it gets any better after it bleeds.


And yes: ITS LOUD. A lot louder then my D5, or DDC-2. So im gonna also need to think of a way to silence it. But im also thinkn it might be because all the bubbles havent been bled yet.

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

been trying that. Also flashing the system.

Dude forget about setting this system to medium or high. The thing pulls it all the way down.

And i have an additional 6 inches of tubing at the top with a brass plug. And it pulls that water down almost 3/4.

This pump is insane. Im gonna see if it gets any better after it bleeds.


And yes: ITS LOUD. A lot louder then my D5, or DDC-2. So im gonna also need to think of a way to silence it. But im also thinkn it might be because all the bubbles havent been bled yet.

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Not what I wanted to hear. Was hoping this thing could be undervolted to relative silence. I'm still waiting on the PSU.

I guess that STC manual binder is good only for leak testing water cooling systems :)

Due, I'm telling you as a friend... and only because I regard you as a friend... otherwise I would just stfu and chuckle... .... there's an easy solution to this crisis ...... !!!

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Originally Posted by IanY

I guess that STC manual binder is good only for leak testing water cooling systems :)

Due, I'm telling you as a friend... and only because I regard you as a friend... otherwise I would just stfu and chuckle... .... there's an easy solution to this crisis ...... !!!

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ahahaha... iany... i think im gonna swap the ek's out with mcres.

As i said i had 2 prep'd for my htpc build. and my onslaught jr.

The way it looks, i think onslaught jr. might get the EK 250 res.


NOTE: EK + RD-30 does not mix under any voltage.

which thumb screws do you guys think i should go with? the black ones or the blue ones?

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0690.jpg

+1 for black

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Originally Posted by Grinch

+1 for black

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hmmmm... my side hard drives are mounted with blue annodized thumb screws as well....

But black does look nice up front too.

I'll wait for more opinions. Also i added a few more pics.

Black.. but you know me..

I think the fan grill screws need to go black as well.. not brass.

More More More :O

if u will use the blue fan grills in the front then i vote for blue

if not then black

How many barbs does the EK res have? I think I have a solution for you.

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Originally Posted by serialk11r

How many barbs does the EK res have? I think I have a solution for you.

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4 G 1/4" threaded openings, 2 EK barbs, 2 EK plugs by default. I purchased the multioption top to replace the default top so I have 6. But in any case watercooler should have plenty of extra barbs lying around.

iam still gathering info to make my first WC, so my question is probably stupid :
on your last photos, should your rad be upside down (barb at the bottom) or it doesnt matter?

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Originally Posted by Alastor2262

iam still gathering info to make my first WC, so my question is probably stupid :
on your last photos, should your rad be upside down (barb at the bottom) or it doesnt matter?

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Barbs on the bottom so you can use the bleed screw up top makes things easier, but it doesn't really matter either way.

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Originally Posted by Jedda

Here's
a link to the Matrix stuff.

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No, what I want to know is what is "LSI" version of Matrix Orbital.

black screws for that black case....

i agree with the black fully. the blue screws looked tacked on especially cause the blue is a real funky lookin semi-turquoise

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Originally Posted by septim

black screws for that black case....

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+1 :D

yeah black screws look alright ;)

Have you tried using 2 wyes to split the return flow in half, and the suction in half. (ah isn't it wonderful how I'm finding uses for wyes? 90/45 degree barbs are next!)

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Originally Posted by septim

black screws for that black case....

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+2 :D

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Black.. but you know me..

I think the fan grill screws need to go black as well.. not brass.

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I agree 100% with this :)

serial stick with 45deg fittings lesser flow killer than the 90deg...

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Originally Posted by Grinch

+1 for black

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+1 for the black ones. The build looks great m8! Keep it up! :)

guys i dropped the black screws back in.

Also finished the waterwork and she's doing a leak test right now.

Some teasers: i need to go out to work, so i'll post the rest later:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0712.jpg

I fixed the cyclone. I stuck a thermoprobe down there, and it caused a counter vortex. That seemed to fix my bubble problem.

Ranker, the thing is a little loud. Its about a little worse then a D5. But it pumps like a monster.

Currently my loads wont break 51C.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0709.jpg


And i thought they were called LSI matrix prbitals? if not, then i guess i was wrong. Mines the PLED version. I havent had time to install it yet.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0707.jpg