Get a new camera before you get a new compressor :P Haha, just kidding. The build is coming together nicely, keep it up :D
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Get a new camera before you get a new compressor :P Haha, just kidding. The build is coming together nicely, keep it up :D
Bigger compressor means bigger cooling capacity :)
well, for now im not hoping very good result, its my first cascade, -70@200w is my target.... im just wanna finish it first, gain experience from it and then modify it...
thx for all your helps....
-70*C@200W with that compressor can be, very, very, very hard. If possible imho.
what temp should i expect with that compressor then? -60c @ 200w maybe?
changin to Daikin Rotary R22 3/4hp would be fine? its cheap here only $50
If you want -70*C @ 200W you must buy this compresor. With two rotary compresors your cascade will work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by andre X_X
That 3/4HP rotary would be much better option :-)
Hard to tell you how good results you can achieve with your small compressor, maybe -60C, maybe less, maybe more. But don`t think so that -70C :)
all right, time to save money :D.... for now i dont have other choice rather than using this 1/3 comp. need to learn how to play with this baby first before changing/adding some parts...
anyway, this is my 2nd stage comp datasheet....
what do you think?
http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/3...tasheetaa3.jpg
270W at what temperature?
its hard to say with c02, unless you blend it correctly getting past -55c can be hard, -60's could be possible. Try what you have can always change the compressor later. I found 2 big rotaries makes -70c a little easier with c02. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by andre X_X
being its a r12 compressor id say its at -23c at 270w when using r12. so spec sheets dont mean much as we use different refrigerants with different boiling points.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big SturL
Being 12cc i think it will be fine for a "test" system :)
What are the test conditions the datasheet uses to get that 270W evaporating capacity on r12?
Tom
@tom: don't know tom, they dont mention it, but as kayl said, it was -23.3c @ 270w...
anyway, i decided to make a custom oil sep rather than buy it as i dont have enough money. the Alco A-W55877 with 7/8 OD is $65 but i have unused Dry ice container with 25cm height and 2" diameter, just need to make the top lid and adding steel wol :D. it'll save some money. btw, do i need to Prefill the custom oil sep?
That depense on how often you want to open the value for oil return and how big your sep is...Quote:
Originally Posted by andre X_X
If you have the (correct) oil, fill 100ml or less, if you don't have, leave it out. :p:
i dont know what the oil on my 2nd stage comp. so i think i'll just leave it out...
anyway, how many steel wol should i put in oil sep? 3/4 height of oil sep enough?
allright i've got an idea about putting a hx on 2nd stage, but not from suction line (slhx)... how if i put the discarghed line inside the main HX? so i'll buy 5/8 copper and put 2x 1/4", one from compressor and one from oil sep, would it be okay?
discharge line from compressor has temp around...+90*C, HX won`t handle it.
I am fixing (the electronics) of a small cascade system at the moment. In there build, the oil seperator uses capillary tube for the oil return.
Where do you find a compressor that cheap?Quote:
changin to Daikin Rotary R22 3/4hp would be fine? its cheap here only $50
probably from scrap yard :DQuote:
Originally Posted by star882
d@mn thats hot luke, reconsidering slhx now... anyway how many steel wol do i need to put in my oil sep?
i found the compressor in local store. daikin 1hp would cost me arround US$75. its a R22 compressor.
any amount of steel wool would be ok. Try to bend inlet pipe at the bottom like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by andre X_X
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/4599/oilsepia2.jpg
can i make it like this?
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/6225/oilsepej2.jpg
dont use steel wool it just burns.
Better to use copper scrubs and and purge when brazing.
Hi Kayl,
If you purge as normal but use a very high flow rate then it doesn't burn. Steel is very reactive at high temperature, much more than copper, this is why you need to have a much more inert environment which you'll get inside the tube from the higher flow rate of nitrogen/whatever :)
But yes, if you dont/can't purge at all then steel wool will turn to black burned dust very quickly in brasing like you said :toast:
Tom