Hey, Philly, I don't think you will find 1500 but you should find 2K, I don't remember seeing 15k grit.
so it should be 800/1000/2000
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Hey, Philly, I don't think you will find 1500 but you should find 2K, I don't remember seeing 15k grit.
so it should be 800/1000/2000
On my way out to get that right now. . .thanks for the tip!!Quote:
Originally Posted by phelan1777
Philly don't lap the Swiftech blocks... they are FLAT and you will make them worse. Swiftech has the best bases in the business.
Go to any hobby store or automotive paint place, they have more sandpaper options than you'll ever need. I think I've got everything from 1000 to 12k from well stocked hobby stores.
I wonder if anybody would be brave enough to post adverse or no affects from lapping. Seriously, looking at all of the pictures you can't help but round off the corners significantly. Has to negatively impact performance.
Dude, I totally respect that. . .but wouldn't it be prudent to get them up to flawless mirror finishes? I am stretching the sandpaper over 3/8" plate glass and being muy very careful as I lap. The FX-60 will look flawless once I get the 800/1000/2000 grit paper on it. Your caution is that I may wind up with Apogee 1U's with bases that are not as flat as they came from the factory?Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
I now wish I would have taken pics of my Apogee 1U blocks last night. They were alot better than my MP-05 but not perfect...which is what I want. You can now watch TV in their reflection. I can't see lapping hurting anything if you do it correctly and take you time.
mirror does not equal flatness. swifty bases are gauarnteed flat to +/- 0.0003".Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
they may not be shiny, but if they wer ethey would produce pretty much flawless geometry reflections.
make sure that you lap that FX-60 for flatness (hard to impossible with hand lapping kit) not for reflectiveness.
Now you all have me worried. I use three fingers evenly over the foam (so I don't accidentally bend a pin) with light yet even pressure. Every 25 strokes I rotate the proc 90 degrees. Is there a "better" way to actually do the lapping? Straight back and forth...or figure eights...or circles? I slowly go back and forth in mostly a straight line.Quote:
Originally Posted by Senater_Cache
Man, that FX is like my prized possession. . .and I don't wanna hork it just to make it look pretty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
i do circles while still rotating the processor 90* after every 20 or so circles
Exactly. I'm personally not fond of the "lapping mania" that is all over forums.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
If u have a problematic block, hs and u want to fix it, u can only do this with machines and not by hand.
With swiftech u don't need to do anything.
Lapping is purely for aesthetics, if u ask me... :p:
Looking forward to your results! :)
Not to be a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:, but PLEASE dont use brasso, after all that effort of lapping and stuff.
It acts like a isolator between metals...The mirror finish is just for show...you're not going to do any good if you get that mirror finish with brasso...its going to be worst.
Try to lap it with smaller grit sandpaper (???) and skip brasso.
Just my 2 cents.
I've heard figure eight are best but I have no idéa what that's based on.
I don't think it matters much if the corners get slightly round as long as it's pretty flat over the core where the heat is.
No, mirror finish is NOT THE GOAL OF LAPPING EVER! It does not improve performance. Flatness is what matters, and lack of scars or nicks or imperfections. If you do lap the Swiftech blocks I guarantee you they will be less flat then before you touched them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
I have 800, 1000 and 2000 grit in hand now. . .I'll finish lapping the CPU tomorrow first thing and post pics of the final result. I really do want to have a go at the Apogee 1U's also.
One set back occurred today. I found out that one of my 8800GTX's was defective. One card did 10477 in 3D Mark 06 and the other could only manage 2390. I rma'd it to NewEgg and should have the replacement in hand by a week from Monday. So I will do all the single card testing while i wait.
Lapping a FX60 is dumb, just take the IHS off...
Http://www.sspmustang.com/OT/FS/fx60.JPG
Nudity! :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
Quoting with image = loss...
Nudity for the win.
Yeah, that is the next step. . .I have to consult the oc'ing gods to see if I need to remove it once the cascade is set up. Remember, FX-60's are cold bugged @ around -60 to -70c. Once Chilly tells me what to expect from the Extreme Frostbyte he's making for me I will make that decision.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
@nikhsub1 - ok....ok....I will leave the Aprgee 1U's as they are. I did feel as if I made the IHS of the FX-60 flatter, but I hear you and others (Gabe from Swifty included) that those bases are "dead flat".
Looks good Philly! Nice Job!
I remember in one thread Cathar said lapping up to 800 grit using only water yielded best results. Also, instead of polishing with Brasso which acts as an insulator, I would finish polish with some AS5. Both will help anti-oxidation, but AS5 obviously is the best thermally, plus polishing with it will fill any micro-scratches that could later become air-pockets.
Also, it has been said before (and is also on the instruction manual) Swiftech blocks are machine lapped much more perfect than possible by hand.
Then again, having a shiny block might be worth losing a few degrees. :D I wouldn't stress over it.
Look forward to results. Subscribed.
Thanks for the kind words of advice. I will not be lapping my Apogee 1U's as flat is waaaay more important than pretty. I use AS5 already to fill in the micro scratches and won't use brasso after hearing of it's insulating properties.Quote:
Originally Posted by entropy
Here's the FX after some 800 grit:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rk-Log-025.jpg
Another 800 grit shot:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rk-Log-026.jpg
Now we're making some progress after the 2nd sheet of 1000 grit.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rk-Log-027.jpg
Here's the finished product:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rk-Log-028.jpg
I can see that the corners are no longer flat. Maybe I went too fast.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rk-Log-029.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rk-Log-031.jpg
WOOT baby!!! EK is about to drop their new block on us!!:toast: :woot: :toast:
Here's what my 8800's are going to look like in a week when I put a set thru their paces:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...800gtx1qa7.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...800gtx2dq6.jpg
As my cousin says in Boston. . ."Thoese blocks are wikked haaad core!"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
You are kidding right? you MIGHT get to -50c if you are even lucky and I am talking 190-240 HTT here, so you better be ready to use some high multis...Quote:
Remember, FX-60's are cold bugged @ around -60 to -70c.
Do you have any links to threads that discuss this? I didn't realizethat the cold bug occurred at -50 or so and the HTT was so limited. I guess I'll be learning how to throttle back the cascade to keep idle temps above that threshold. My mobo has dividers made for running higher multi's & low HTT and "over dividing" the ram to 10/9 or 8/7 or 6/5, etc to still get the best performance from the ram. Thanks for the info.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris