Questions about my WC rig (nice pictures included!)

Thanks for the info DVL73, think i maybe contacting you if i have any problems with setting the tbalancer up :)

Basically for the £40 I spent I got the following:

1x external USB cable
1x internal USB cable
1x Control unit (UV orange plastic)
1x analogue sensor hub
4x thin foil temperature sensors
7x fan -> fan signal cables
Mounting material
CD With software
4x Attenuators (allows 2 fans to connect to each fan port, so max of 8 fans)
He also threw in a Water Probe.

I added all that lot up on the Kustom Pcs website and it came to £90 excl delivery :eek: thus I was more than happy to pay the £40 inc del :D

In your opinion is it really necessary to have the MiniNG, and I assume I could control 3 fans with it using the atenuators?

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Thanks for the info DVL73, think i maybe contacting you if i have any problems with setting the tbalancer up :)

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No probs.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Basically for the £40 I spent I got the following:

1x external USB cable
1x internal USB cable
1x Control unit (UV orange plastic)
1x analogue sensor hub
4x thin foil temperature sensors
7x fan -> fan signal cables
Mounting material
CD With software
4x Attenuators (allows 2 fans to connect to each fan port, so max of 8 fans)
He also threw in a Water Probe.

I added all that lot up on the Kustom Pcs website and it came to £90 excl delivery :eek: thus I was more than happy to pay the £40 inc del :D

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OK then :) ... you have additionally fan/usb cables, 4x attenuators and water probe and possibly sensor hub. I'm saying possibly, because with my T-balancer XL (external) sensor hub was already included in the package (for £40). Not sure if mcubed changed that or not, but it's worth checking if someone decide to purchase. Also, thin foil sensors (analogue) you can attach only to SensorHub, as t-balancer itself is supporting only digital sensors (via sensor bus). Occasionally, I like thin foil sensors more (apart from the fact that they are maybe not that precise), because they are very thin (like tape) so you can easily install them on the most inaccessible places (even under the CPU heatsink). On the other hand, digital sensors are little more accurate than analogue and advantage is that they can be connected in serial rather than all having to go back to the hub with their own cable. They are little more expensive though... also I have the special analog sensors for the environment (air) temperature. They have small blue "bulb" which is probing the environmental air. They were not part of the t-balancer, but I sourced them additionally.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

In your opinion is it really necessary to have the MiniNG, and I assume I could control 3 fans with it using the atenuators?

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If you don't want to control the pump speed, you don't need it. As you already have sensor hub, you can just monitor the water flow rate and water temp.

Oh ... I forgot to mention to the thread visitors, that with t-balancer you can also control your case CCFLs and even Peltiers if analog wattage is in acceptable range. In that sense, bigNG + SensorHub or Classic + miniNG + SensorHub would control pretty much everything you will ever need.

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Hence, in terms of flow, it seems that modding the top (boring out the top inlet) largely makes up for the loss of flow from using the res. If you haven't tried the mod, you may want to consider it.

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Interesting ... thx :)

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Here's some info that shows more scientific test results of the impact of the res.

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Oh yes, certainly. I'm aware of that thread. Actually, my saying in the posts was about the "numbers" in a way of real life temperature delta ;)

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Note that the DDC Ultra with res is still more potent than a D5.

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No doubt.

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Originally Posted by Muunsyr

How did you mount the T-Bal vertically? I have one and that is the orientation that I want to use (and similar placement).

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As you may notice from the pics, I have HD drive bay on the bottom/right of the case, just opposite the t-bal and behind the front case fans (which I don't use anymore). So ... I just attached the t-bal to the opposite side of the bay, by using sticky mounting tape. That part of the case (as shown in the pics of t-balancer) is perfect spot for t-bal + miniNG + sensorhub, as it's isolated, not visible and you have plenty of space. Also, I can nicely hide all cables there.

Case in question is Lian-Li PC6089 - Blue. Even after so many years of using it, I'm still loving this case and don't see any particular reason to change it. :)

any pics with the light on?

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Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

best use a large syringe to fill rez while pump running.

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Yup, good alternative. Personally, I like tube with the funnel attached as I'm much more flexible around the case and sometimes if reservoir is placed inside it may be tricky to reach it properly with syringe.

... just came to my mind, or even better is to hack the plexires with one G1/4 thread on the top, so that I can put one DD perfectseal barb and attach the DD FillPort directly to the plexires and when it's not used, I can just use the additional G1/4 end-point plug (as on the pump plexitop). :cool:

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Originally Posted by BlaqMale

any pics with the light on?

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Actually, my ambient light is pretty much dimmed, but I will see what I can do ;)

Hi there,

I have some new pics :) water temp probe, PA160 (back and side), lights off scenario with my case window (different angles) and lights on pictures (as requested). I will post them shortly in the first page, where main post is.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Also where and how have you fitted the water probe?

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Here you go:

http://62.204.32.7:10973/X1900/wc_tlcprobe.jpg

OK ... new pics are up (final version) and they are probably the latest batch. Hopefully, new (complete) collection will do the final justice now :) They are also in the case gallery thread now. My personal favourite is the new "lights off" version ;)

http://62.204.32.7:10973/X1900/wc_night2.jpg

can you post some daylight pics of the Laing DDC-1 plus & plexi top & plexi res setup.

I am wondering if the res top on the pump is big enough for a cpu/gpu/chipset cooling and if i can add another res to the top of the pump/res as i think thats what you have done.

cheers

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Originally Posted by Gibbs

can you post some daylight pics of the Laing DDC-1 plus & plexi top & plexi res setup.

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LOL ... ok as we have night, lights off and bright ambient light version, I guess that daylight/camera flash on is only left :) As I had the busy schedule (work) during the day, project pics were taken mostly during the night. Anyhow, will see if I can do something ;)

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Originally Posted by Gibbs

I am wondering if the res top on the pump is big enough for a cpu/gpu/chipset cooling and if i can add another res to the top of the pump/res as i think thats what you have done.

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I'm not quite sure about the meaning of "big enough". Reservoir size doesn't affect the cooling capacity of your wc loop (and in some cases it's even restricting the flow additionally). You can wc all those components properly even with the simple t-line or fillport. In case that I understood you well, you absolutely don't need additional reservoir. DDC + plexi top + plexi res is just fine.

wow, that probe rocks.

Very nice looking build.

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Originally Posted by Gibbs

can you post some daylight pics of the Laing DDC-1 plus & plexi top & plexi res setup.

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Here you go:

Daylight, camera flash on. Laing DDC-1 plus & plexi top & plexi res:

http://62.204.32.7:10973/X1900/wc_ddc-plus1.jpg

Notice the red impeller of the new 18W DDC-1 plus. Also, you may notice the AcoustiPack foam blocks just beneath the pump itself. They are absorbing the pump noise, additionally. Of course, there is just enough clearance so that pump can cool itself properly.


Daylight, case pictures (front):

http://62.204.32.7:10973/X1900/wc_daylight1.jpg

That looks very nice mate.

On a side note, with the t-balancer can you use the molex to 3pin converter cables as all my fans have molex connectors?

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

On a side note, with the t-balancer can you use the molex to 3pin converter cables as all my fans have molex connectors?

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Yes, no problems with that (I had few Papst fans in such set-up, connected to t-bal). Of course, I guess that your molex fans don't include the RPM sensor pin. However, that's not a problem as t-bal can "measure" the RPM rate first time fans are powered on. Additionally, fan blockage and 0RPM (fan off) is supported also. Maybe this is probably another advantage of t-bal, as even in case that fan doesn't support the RPM, t-bal is able to give you approx rpm rate, power off fan and recognise the fan blockage (fault). As this is something not usually and easily supported by PWM, I guess that m-cubed is using additional circuitry for this.

For the thread readers who are not aware, PWM is the "Pulse Width Modulated" type of fan control. Purpose for this alternative approach is to keep the fan spinning with a rapid stream of "taps" - small hard pulses of full torque (i.e. 12V) that keep the fan's inertia up, and no power in between - instead of a low constant torque.

Major disadvantage of standard (linear) fan voltage regulators is that minimum torque (approx 60% in most cases) is needed for fan to spin. Compared to this, PWM doesn't have this limitation and you can push your fans at VERY low speed (some of my fans are running at 400RPM, as shown in MiniNG picture) and even shut them off or turn them on dynamically. Another plus is that almost no heat is produced by the control circuit, as you don't have the dissipation of additional voltage. Similar to analog voltage regulators, PWM does have few problems (but not on the major level, in my opinion):

- PWM switching is hard on the fan's windings (coils), so your fan's lifetime might be very slightly reduced (I guess it could change MTBF by a few days only, in most cases). However, it's questionable if this is negative point as decreased fan speed will likely improve the MTBF (it's affecting it much more) than increased winding stress.

- Not all fans are PWM friendly. They will buzz, groan, rumble... etc and in this case solution is that you use attenuators. In that sense, PWM controller and fan should be nicely matched and then you will be rewarded with the new level of SILENCE.

- PWM controllers are slightly more expensive

Guys, I have one question. Does anyone of you know how can I remove (clean) the over-clock logo printed on the plexi bay cover ? No offence to over-clock really (although main pics will probably do the promotion justice, I guess ;) ) but ideally I would like to have a clear look and unfortunately I didn't know in advance that covers are branded :(

Have you tried something like nail polish remover etc?

EDIT: Also been told that WD 40 does a good job at removing stuff like that

Also OT did you get my PM mate?

If not I had some questions about the T balancer:

Just wanted to ask a quick question before I part with my cash.

I am right in thinking that my Classic Tbalancer can NOT be connected to my DDC ultra rpm sensor? For this I need the BIGNG right (I have a sensor hub)?

Also can you mount the BigNG in a 5.25 bay?

Sorry but I didn't know if the pm system worked as its me first time using it.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Have you tried something like nail polish remover etc?

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Nope. Not much free time lately ... anyhow I will ask my missus if she can borrow one :D

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

EDIT: Also been told that WD 40 does a good job at removing stuff like that

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I think that I have one left in my car, hopefully.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Also OT did you get my PM mate?

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:( I completely forgot about the PM service here. Sorry ... I will probably activate the e-mail notification, just in case.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Just wanted to ask a quick question before I part with my cash.

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Always a good thing to do!

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

I am right in thinking that my Classic Tbalancer can NOT be connected to my DDC ultra rpm sensor? For this I need the BIGNG right (I have a sensor hub)?

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No. You need BigNG only if you want to volt control the pump. Otherwise, as you already have the sensor hub, just connect the DDC ultra rpm (blue) wire to the flow meter port of the sensor hub. Sensor hub will measure the flow rate and you may configure the monitoring metrics additionally via t-ban software.

If you want to volt control the pump then you need the MiniNG, connected to the additional sensor bus port of the t-balancer classic. By combining the t-balancer classic + MiniNG you don't need BigNG. Actually, it's better set-up in my opinion as you have 2 ports extra and you may dedicate MiniNG just for the water cooling. It's a bit complicated, I know, but hopefully my explanation does make sense to you. If not, I will try to be more precise ;)

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Also can you mount the BigNG in a 5.25 bay?

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I think that BigNG does come with the HDD bay mounting bracket, but I don't see much sense in that. By using the Velcro tapes you have really free style mount in the case and it's much more flexible for the cable management. On the other hand, if you want a little bit of bay window "bling" by using other t-balancer acrylic top (and illuminated too) or simply that's your preferable spot, than drive bay mount could make sense. edit: Why are you asking about the BigNG ? (as you already have classic + sensor hub)

Ah sorry i did mean the MiniNG. Basically from what you have said I don't actually need the MiniNG anyway. All I want to do is make it so that if the pump doesn't switch on then the rest of my system will automatically shut down so none of my components get fried. So all i need to do is attach the blue wire from the DDC to my sensor hub and get the software setup to shut down my system right?

Thanks for all the help, the instructions for the tbalancer are not the best in the world lol.

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

Ah sorry i did mean the MiniNG.

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Now you are talkin'

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Originally Posted by AFK Matrix

All I want to do is make it so that if the pump doesn't switch on then the rest of my system will automatically shut down so none of my components get fried. So all i need to do is attach the blue wire from the DDC to my sensor hub and get the software setup to shut down my system right?

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You got it right, gringo :) and for this set-up you don't need MiniNG. Here is the screen grab from my system (software config):

http://62.204.32.7:10973/X1900/wc_ddc_em.jpg

As you may notice, if the coolant flow rate is less then 4l/min warning is issued (audible too) and if it's below 2l/min emergency switch of is kicking in. On the last window, you may see the available types of the monitoring metrics. Forgot to mention, you can attach two flow meters to the sensor hub, in case of multiple pumps or multiple measurements in the loop.

I have one interesting observation. When running my DDC at full speed (that's around 7.5 l/min coolant flow rate) water loop is generally silent but occasionally I can hear the water "noise". It's hard to explain,but it's a bit like "waterish gurgle" or sometimes "little water flush" or even sometimes sound of the rushed water through something that's not that wide (struggling to get through). Maybe gurgle is the best description ... actually, I will see if I can record the noise for you ;) as it's really difficult for me to explain. Sometimes, I don't hear that noise for a whole day and sometimes several times per day. It's not affecting anything but I'm puzzled about the cause of this. Never had that before. Is it air in the loop/rad, will it go away and why is not occuring when coolant flow rate is lower (pump is downvolted). :confused:

Any hints ?

Nice setup you got there, looks good. And why not just cut a new piece of plex to cover the case so you have a clean look to it?

What flow meter are you using to measure the flow rate? Or are you just translating pump rpm to L/min?

Pls ignore this post ....