I verified that my P5BD will POST, and did some warranty-voiding surgery on the cooling solution. All remaining components are in transit, hope to have her up and running in a week or so!
Mark
OP updated with new pix.
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I verified that my P5BD will POST, and did some warranty-voiding surgery on the cooling solution. All remaining components are in transit, hope to have her up and running in a week or so!
Mark
OP updated with new pix.
nice case and nice rad ill buy same case and i have the rad just behind me im going with the same block but with different pump how heavy is teh case? and it really looks that good like in pics? its easy to work with?
The case is pretty light, it's all aluminum. It has been a pleasure to work with for the most part. A few minor complaints, the mb tray does not have labels on the holes, so I am not sure how I am going to decide which holes to place the motherboard standoffs in. Also, with the PSU in the bottom, I am going to need to cut a hole in the motherboard tray to run power cables through so I can hide them behind the motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by leviathan18
Mark
depending on some PSU, the 20/24 atx power are sometimes hard/stiff to get behind mobo, well good luck on that.
I think I can route the 20/24 around instead of behind the mb, I was thinking more of the extra 4/8 pin connector at the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Mark
Many people with P5B's have been complaining about the poor chip/heatsink contact with the stock cooling solution, so the Blue Ice Pro is a good idea, I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch
With a total of 7 120 mm fans moving air in and out of the case, I doubt the case air will ever get hot enough to be concerned about. Heat rises, but with the rad at the top, not enough heat will build up in the case to raise temps much.
I believe that my CPU and GPU temps may suffer a bit with the rad on the top, but that overall system temps will be cooler.
Mark
well if you do have the time to reconsider your airflow...
but i also have it like that with my PSU exhaust 4inch away from my PA120.2
am sure it affects temps a little but overall system is still cooler than with old Tt beginner's setup...
If I don't like it, I can simply turn all the fans around, suck cool in through the top, and exhaust if from the front, back, and side. I think with all the airflow, the temps inside the case will stay cool...warm air will not get a chance to collect in the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
I got my Radiical top, but due to my own ignorance of how the pump worked, I got right angle barbs. I plan to get straight barbs and one of Radiical's DDC mounting brackets, but since it will take close to 2 weeks to get them, I'm going to go ahead and install it as is and replace the pump barbs later. I have my loop completed, and am ready to leak test. I hope to power up for the first time tomorrow or Monday!
Mark
New pix up in the op as soon as they upload to Photobucket.
Very nice build.
You touched on it, but didn't mention it later -
the pump's intake is on TOP/CENTER with that mod top right?
And then you use the plug to seal the "center" hole on the side and the output is the offset side hole right?
What size tubing are you using? 1/2ID or 7/16ID ??
There's only 2 holes, intake pointing up and outlet to the side. No plug involved. I didn't know for sure that that was the arrangement, else, had I thought about it for a second, I would have gotten straight barbs and the bracket, which turns the pump on its side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotic
It's 7/16 ID tubing.
Mark
I cant wait to see what kinda temps your gona get and ur oc because i got just about the same everything but i went with the p5w dh delux...
Leak testing as I write this. I got a first hand illustration of the power of the DDC while bleeding the system. I removed the little screw in the back of the PA-120.3 while filling the system with coolant...I saw a fountain of coolant spray out of the back of my case LOL. I immediately said "DUH!" and partly screwed it back in, which was much easier to control, and. I'm sure, the way it was intended to be done.
I had heard some complaints that the DDC was loud, but I think it is very quiet. Also, the PSU fan is whisper quiet, though it may get louder when I put a full load on it.
Mark
looking great. I can't wait to see more pics.
5 hours of leak testing and no problems. I had an irrational fear that I had punctured my radiator core when I installed it, but no hint of a leak. I'll let it run overnight, and if it's OK int he AM, I'll start installing hardware!
Mark
<--- waiting patiently..... yeah, right! :D
awsome job so far, can't wait till it's done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhorgel
I've got a PA120.3 coming in myself - so - the RAD has a bleed cap. While the system is running, you unscrew the bleed cap until you see fluid (spray) out and then cap it? Is that about right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhorgel
is it that easy to puncture the rad core when installing the fans????
yup, especially when using pointed metal screws, in my case i hand tapped the holes to #6-32 then used the appropriate length screw for the fan gasket rad...
if you don't like this setup, go buy the optional shroud, as the shroud PA mounts via side screws where its less likely to puncture the PA...
mhorgel for the ddc i suggest paying close attention to it, don't know if there are still those faulty batch issues which stalls or outright won't F-- start...
also recently because of said ddc powerfull intake, check to see if your inlet tubing is still straight, i just notice mine had a little kink from reservoir going ddc. had to trim it down...
dont take the cap all the way out, just loosen it enough to let the air out, and watch the fluid levels, loosen the cap till you see them drop and when water dribbles out of the cap tighten it and refill move the rad around you should hear the bubbles go through the rad ......rinse and repeatQuote:
Originally Posted by Khaotic
when you cant get any more bubbles out of the rad then turn on the pump rinse and repeat
wow..thanks..I am thinking of getting a PA120.2 or PA120.3(gotta have the best) and I would hate to puncture the radiator with a screwQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
Funny you should mention that...my DDC died while I was installing software...I got the Asus PC Probe software installed, pulled it up, and my CPU temp was 81 degrees! In disbelief, I downloaded Core Temp, and it (I'm not kidding) said my core temp was 5 billion degrees. I shut everything down, and when I tested my loop, my DDC was dead. I came damn close to losing a processor, and I suppose it might be damaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
I did tie a zip tie from my return to some power cables on the PSU to straighten it out.
Mark
shouldn't the PC shut itself or freeze itself or whatever if the CPU temp goes over some limit? my old PIII CA64-TC did that...Quote:
Originally Posted by mhorgel
It should, but it didn'tQuote:
Originally Posted by marauder16
Mark