Making P5WDH ready for Conroe: An Illustrative Guide

Done, now waiting for the hw mods... :)

Also, no lapping of the NB and SB heat sinks?? ;)

Good job !!

It is an easy step by step guide and a must one for P5W DH owners


:clap: FCG

So, basically this is just changing the default cooling paste with a high quality one?

Awesome pictures ... what camera did you use?

Two thumbs way up, FCG. Looking forward to the volt and and other mods. :slobber:

congrats, very nice guide ;)

Any idea where the mb temp sensor is located?

Nice guide!:toast:

A couple of questions though:

1) Can I use pure aceton instead of Isopropyl alcohol? Is it also necessary to use this Thermal Surface Purifier?

2) What kind of temps do you get now on the Mobo?

looks great!

What that improwments givs us ?
My mobo goes with fsb 430. E6300 is only 3GHz !!!

Great but for what? My Conroe is running OK on this MoBo ...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr.X

Nice guide!:toast:

A couple of questions though:

1) Can I use pure aceton instead of Isopropyl alcohol? Is it also necessary to use this Thermal Surface Purifier?

2) What kind of temps do you get now on the Mobo?

---

If your referring to acetone, I wouldnt as it will eat and essentially 'melt' any plastic/organic it comes in contact with. It does work well with ceramic and metal based stuff though.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zulusman

What that improwments givs us ?
My mobo goes with fsb 430. E6300 is only 3GHz !!!

---

No all people like you is able to reach such fsb ... It seems some have good mobo and others don't

Like me ,as I can't boot beyond 400 mhz ..

You just should be happy to come to that result so , and it is kind from FCG to make a guide for people who have not o/c knowledges as people like Kysoen san , Fugger and others ...

fsb depend on your luck ? :(
I already have a bad axe that can do 460fsb no mods but I miss the 2.2+vdimm

IIRC, FCG told the vdimm mod on the bad axe kill the board fast...:( (I modded one of my board but never used the vdimm over stock 2.2v)

nice guide btw :toast:

Great guide, thanks

FCG, I noticed in the pics re removing the push pins the pins were bare, there wasn't any hot glue. I know some A8N32-SLI boards (mine) had the pins hot-glued on the heat pipe system. Hope this problem doesn't crop up later with this board.

Very nice guide! Congrats FCG! :clap:

Haha, awesome stuff Kris, I didn't know you were gonna give me the royal treatment. What a guy! :D I most certainly owe you one my friend. Oh, and don't forget to remind me to put this guide up on thetechreactor in a few weeks, it's too good of a guide not to.

I can't wait to see the rest, oh, and talk to me on skype when you get a chance.

Good guide. I wait vmch mod,and ddr:)

Did you replace the TIM on the Vreg or whatever that heatsink is that is at the other end of the heatpipe? I did, because I'm never comfortable with TIM that feels like bubble gum, but I just want to make sure it was a good thing to do.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DragonOrta

Did you replace the TIM on the Vreg or whatever that heatsink is that is at the other end of the heatpipe? I did, because I'm never comfortable with TIM that feels like bubble gum, but I just want to make sure it was a good thing to do.

---

I have the same question. I'm going to be doing this tonight, just wondering.

thanks FCG!!! Well done.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WesM63

I have the same question. I'm going to be doing this tonight, just wondering.

---

with 8-phase power the MOSFETs don't even get warm on my board. the TIM on the MOSFETs is padded tape, and for good reason. due to the means in which the components are installed on the board it would be virtually impossible to ensure a flat mounting surface for the heatsink without extremely right quality controls. the extra surface area provided by the "MOSFET cooler" is really there to wick the heat away from the NB cooler and place it in the path of the exhaust air from an aircooler....it's not there to cool the MOSFETs. If you'll notice, the other half of the VRM circuit MOSFETs are completely bare. Touch them when you are running, I think you will find they are plenty cool. The reason I didn't modify this area of the board is because it is completely unneeded and would probably only cause problems. Plus shorting out source to drain on a MOSFET spells instant death to it...it would be a shame to have a little AS5 kill one of the phases on your new Asus board...

FCG

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by freecableguy

with 8-phase power the MOSFETs don't even get warm on my board. the TIM on the MOSFETs is padded tape, and for good reason. due to the means in which the components are installed on the board it would be virtually impossible to ensure a flat mounting surface for the heatsink without extremely right quality controls. the extra surface area provided by the "MOSFET cooler" is really there to wick the heat away from the NB cooler and place it in the path of the exhaust air from an aircooler....it's not there to cool the MOSFETs. If you'll notice, the other half of the VRM circuit MOSFETs are completely bare. Touch them when you are running, I think you will find they are plenty cool. The reason I didn't modify this area of the board is because it is completely unneeded and would probably only cause problems. Plus shorting out source to drain on a MOSFET spells instant death to it...it would be a shame to have a little AS5 kill one of the phases on your new Asus board...

FCG

---

So what you're saying is that I can remove the mosfet heat sink completely without any overheating problems? I'm asking because I want to replace the northbridge heat sink with a water block.

putting the mobo on the outside of an antistatic bag is bad, thats where all the static is

Sweet guide, done did my. Just waiting for my X1900 Master Card and waterblock to arrive I can do it all at once. Can't wait for the vmods, if needed.