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As long as the inlet is above the core, I dont see a problem. Though you are right, the inlet should be down about 5mm more.
As for your design, that would be extremely restrictive. I would suggest a layout that does not require the water to change direction within the block.
If you have allot of time on your hands, it would be interesting to try out different designs.
Edit: My version is just a ripoff of the AquaXtreme IceFloe
So basicly, I should go for a White Water replica with two outlets? No funny 90-degree angles, and a lot of fins.
Check this model then :)
http://img432.imageshack.us/img432/7...rblock51op.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8...block5b6ov.jpg
Basicly a rip-off, but with holes so the water gets in the side, too.
I'd say thats your best design yet, but I would have an odd number of fins, leave and un-cut fin in the middle, and bevel the top of all the fins, so you don't have dead faces.
Also, are you taking into account that you are using 3mm heads?
What do you mean when you say bevel all fins?
Deadfaces is a big no-no or what?
Also, i am a little unsure what you mean about the odd number of pins, and uncut fin in the middle..
And no, i havent thought about exact measures yet. I will contact my friend soon to find out what head-sizes we have avalible.
Is it something like this you mean?(very quickly changed - some things look weird).
The fins are lowered, so the water can flow over them, but is that the best way to spread the water between all fins?
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/457...block5c8ha.jpg
By bevel, Im refering to bringing them to a point at the top, like in my initial design.
Dead faces create turbulance, which is good in high flow loops, but is bad with low flow pumps.
As for the odd number of fins, you have the right idea, but only the middle one should be whole, leave the rest on ether side with a cut to distribute flow to the outer fins.
The head sizes are critical to doing any sort of concept.
I'll try to do another one assuming 3mm heads are used.
I still dont think i understand what you mean about bevel. Do you mean i should raise the fins?
Also, i am still unsure about the uneven pin-thing. Like this new-one?
http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/9...block5d6gh.jpg
(edit: The water intake is ofcourse in the centre, just made a minor mistake in sketchup, and now it is a bit hard to move it without screwing everything up)
I'm sorry i dont quite understand you, but it is a bit hard to understand spoken illustrations when english is not your main language.
I've just spoken to my friend, and he said that 3mm was the least that they would use. So pretty big distance between the fins i suppose :/.
And thanks a lot for the help - It is greatly appriciated.
Here's another rough design.
http://members.shaw.ca/nick_anti/Block4s.jpg
Click to enlarge.
The fins are 2mm wide with 3mm gaps. Note the 2 outer fins are half the height of the inner ones.
you can also see that the fins are pointed instead of flat, I refer to that as a bevel (trimming edges).
Again, that block you see is a complete ripoff.
Ahh, now I understand. The bevels cut away the rough corners, and making a larger surface area.
Who made the original design of that block? I do not think it looks very White-water'ish.
The design you made - isn't it a bit long? It must be ~5-6cm on the short side, and ~8cm on the long side. Is there room for such a large block on the motherboard? How large can the block be in total? I'm thinking ~6cm approximately, but i am unsure. I do not know which motherboard that will be used, but for an allround block?
I think I will play with sketchup a bit, and see what turns up. I just dont have a clue about the dimentions.
Cute.
But did you estimate your costs yet, between the copper and the seal and the mouting hardware? Assuming the machining will be free as well as your time. I can almost gurantee you can buy a block of equal performance to what you will make for less, or one that will perform better for the same amount it will cost you to make yours.
I thought you of all people would understand that theres no fun in doing things the easy way. Or the cheapest way for that matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
Thats why he posted on this particular forum.
Machining is free, and we allready have 10mm plexiglas, so we have to pay for the cobber(not sure if my friend can get this free as well, i think so, but am not sure), some sealing and some mounting screws/bolts. Not so expensive..
Here in denmark, i havent seen s.775 blocks for under ~22£, 42US$. So i am quite sure it will be cheaper to make a few ourselves(we are three that wants blocks..).
Besides - It's a project, and it is fun to play around with, so I really cant see why we shouldn't go for an DIY waterblock.
Alternativly, we could just buy a Thermaltake BigWater :p: :p:
Here's my idea for you, input onto the pins, output next to the pins on any side.
1.5" block with channels @ .03125"
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/3699/waterblock7ie.jpg
n00b of 1337 - The block would sure be a great performer, but the CNC machinery we have access to is minimum 3mm(0.118 inch). Unfortunately, if we tried to make a pin-block, there would be very few pins :/ So I think we have set our minds on fins.
Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.
I just played around in Sketchup.. Here's the result.
10mm high(buttom not included) 4-5 mm here.
The fins on the side is 3mm, and 2mm bevels(am i using this word in the correct way?)
The next ones are 5mm, also with 2mm bevels, and the last four are 6mm, plus 2mm bevels.
The block measures 60mm*60mm.
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/854...rblock62vk.jpg
Comments?
Great, but the very center is bare, thats where I would put the odd fin.
Otherwise, you just need to design a cover and mounting bracket.
Water takes the quickest path.
So that wont work.
But also with my design, you want to provide jets, and you dont need alot of pins, the idea is to cause an impingement effect on or around the fins.
NoL, i like yours
n00b 0f l337 - With a minimum of 3mm between pins, that would make a very bad centre.. I think i have to go with fins.
I made a minor change, and i have absolutely no idea if it will have the effect i long for.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3...block6b7ht.jpg
This should make sure that the water is forced to go to the sides, and not just flow directly from inlet to outlets.
You could also take my idea and adjust the cut sizes. Water wont be too forced around by even that design as the water will just flow OVER the fins.
Pins and Jets add allot of resctriction to the loop, and with a 3mm head, you're not increasing the surface area either.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
As for the last design, you can fix the broblem of water flowing straigt out by adding a fin down the middle, decreasing the height of the fins, and increasing the space between the inlet and the nearest fin (making the block taller).
I do realise the water will flow over the fins, but it will be forced to the sides, and removing quite a lot of heat from around the centre(the way i see it).
About your idea: I know it is great, and all.. But with atleast 3mm space between each pin, you cant have very many pins in the waterblock.
If we assume that each pin is ~1*1mm, and the internal of the block is 4*4cm, we can have 10*10 pins in total. And that is quite small pins, and a very large block-internal, given solely to pins. I'm not doubting your design, we just dont have the tools for it.
Edit: If I have to put a fin down the middle, I'd have to remove the other two middle fins. I just dont know if it's worth is(surfacearea vs middle "spreading-fin").
I do not know what you mean increasing space between inlet and fin. How would that make the block taller?
The way it is now, the fins decend in heigh the more you go to the sides.. Should i lower them even more?
Imagine it like a flashlight. The further from the surface you get, the larger the spot light. Water runs in a similar fashion when entering a lower pressure zone. If you have the nozzle higher above the fins, the stream will spread over more of the fins. Making the fins shorter will allow the stream to spread with less restriction.
Would making the fins twist and turn be a good idea? lol jw. kinda like
this makes me wanna take AutoCad as an elective next year lol
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Anyway for the ends you can't have them touching the side. Though you probably already know that.
Well, from how this is going, it would seem that you've forgotten what the inside of a WW block actually looks like... So here's a reminder:
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1900_46710562
The problem with your design, JacobHL, is that, in the most recent revision, very few of the fins will really do much of anything and, in the prior revision, well... really, the same problem applies.
Edit: As a side note, a CSP-MAG (which, iirc, is a little less powerful than the L30) can pump about 1GPM through a WW + BIP + ~5' of 7/16" ID tubing + rotameter (flowmeter) loop...
when the only expense is copper and sealing hardware, the price rapidly drops towards "less than ten bucks", which counts as signifcantly less than pretty much every other waterblock out tere.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
your best bet is a whitewater clone, especially if you borrow the midplate too.
I have thought about the original white water design, but the problem is that the CNC is minimum 3 mm, which would leave an awfull few fins if i were to choose a direct copy og WW.
Perhaps my best bet would be a maze 4 clone? It should be do-able, with relatively few pins.
How is the performancedifference between maze4 and a WW block?