After I get all you guys working safely, then I will start on clean
you should assemble a refrigeration system like in a NASA clean room building a satellite.
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After I get all you guys working safely, then I will start on clean
you should assemble a refrigeration system like in a NASA clean room building a satellite.
Some of these times I'm so happy your here Walt. Sounds good.
Yea me too. And now that you mention filters, i have heard of cleaning desiccants of their retained water by the use of deep vacuum and heat. would heating the filter/dryer durring a vacuum be helpful?
aww man... does that mean i need to ware the bunny suite too?Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
Actually using a heat gun on the system can help moisture boil off.
I'll say this ,never heat with a torch as you can damage a filter/dryer or valve if the wrong part get hot.
Also never heat a filter dryer or you will evaporate the moisture you want it to hold
a heat gun on low to medium or a hair dryer for the tubing or compressor to help release moisture that has a stronger bond (surface tension) when on a metal surface than in free air (no bond)
my heat gun on high I can soft solder 1/2" ID plumbing tube
you mean durring opperation, right? i would only do it while i have a vacuum pump hooked up, and probably never exceed 120F.Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
I would not heat a filter dryer at all. re-read post 30 I added to it
I am a bit confused hear walt, why would you not heat the filter dryer, as I think I am right in saying that they contain Silica gel which allows it to absorb water/moisture readily, making it useful as a desiccant (drying agent).
And once saturated with water/moisture, the gel can be regenerated by heating to 150 °C (300 °F) for 1.5 hours per liter of gel.
I do understand about over heating the gel as it will pop" when exposed to heat above the recommended level.
But if there is anything that you could share with us on why you should not heat the filter dryer please do, as I am very interested in why this should not be done, I understand you want the dryer to hold any moisture in the system, but if you can dry it out when under vacuum would this not be better.
because there is not only desiccant in there, F/D are made by mixing desiccant with a fine grit and some adhesive and pressed into a filter element,where liquid or gas has to pass from inside to outside depending on design, over heating can damage that material.
you want the desiccant to trap the moisture and not release it, Do you think there is only 1 type a desiccant ???? what comes in shoe & electronics boxes?
some filters /dryers have replacable elements, I see tomorrow if I can find one the seal was broken and not used take a picture.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
Thanks Walt, I was not sure on this that is why I asked, if you could find out the info it would be great, as I think others and myself included would be better informed of this.
You would be also better informed if you did the research your self. you maybe learn a Extra item or two that day.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by sacha35
Then come back and tell the forum what you learned that day,plus the extras while researching, related to this forum,just think if everyone did that..........
Forgot: There should not be enough moisture left after a Proper Evacuation to matter < 300 to 500 microns.
Does the vacuum process remove the moisture from the desiccant? At some point the desiccant becomes saturated and can no longer hold any more moisture. I'd guess that proper refrigerant handling practices would lead the filter to become clogged before the desiccant can saturate.
As you rightly stated Walt, i found this bit of useful information from Parker that i found very helpful and informative that might be of some use to others so i have listed the link to there site for all to have a look.Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
Link:http://www.parker.com/cig/catalogs/C...lterdryers.pdf
original core
http://www.uri.com/is-bin/intershop....view/C485G.jpg
replacement filter and rings
http://www.uri.com/is-bin/intershop....w/RC4864HH.jpg
the filter is replaceable, the screen is permanent
When a system's charge has been recovered, and the F/D beeing used is a molecular siev type, should it be changed? because from what i understand, molecular siev (synthetic zeolite) filters are positivly charged and retain polar molocules like water very tightly. so when in a deep vacuum, would any of the water come out? unlike loose-filled copper/steel dryers which seems like water would readily evaporate.
or is this the wrong direction im going, should all filters always be changed right before vacuuming?
No, its designed to lock it in, that why you change filter/dryers not evacuate them.Quote:
Originally Posted by - Feedback
heres a benchmark i did with the vacuum pumps i have.
A while back someone asked to see one of my pumps pull less than one micron.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/PDR_0186.jpg
Welch 8917 / Fisher Scientific Maxima C+
Two Stage Rotary Vane
With 1/2 hp Explosion Proof Motor
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/PDR_0177.jpg
Total pull down time: 9 minuets
ultimate pressure: 2 microns
Noise level: moderate
Weight: 68 lbs
Welch / York 1402
Two Stage Rotary Vane
With 1 hp Motor
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/PDR_0178.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/PDR_0181.jpg
Total pull down time: 7 minuets
ultimate pressure: <1 micron
Noise level: High
Weight: 102 lbs
Welch 1400
Singel Stage Rotary Vane
With 1/2 hp Motor
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/PDR_0173.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/PDR_0172.jpg
Total pull down time: 5 minuets
ultimate pressure: 2 microns
Noise level: very low
Weight: 40 lbs
nice vacuum pumps.
i wish i have one.
Those are some strong ass pumps, how do they handle a single stage?
That doesn't matter and you won't get no where near that low with a compressor with oil in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
those are medical /lab/scientific grade pumps that have a 1" or larger inlet usually. notice how the gauge clamps on .
pobably about 10 grand or more in pumps not counting the electronic gauge.
Whoa I'm just asking. He does build phase units, or is building one, so i'm wondering how long. Those units can be obtained in working condition, and needing a little bit of tender love for around $300.
Exahertz do you know why the one pump has a snow flake on it ?????
That doesn't matter and you won't get no where near that low with a compressor with oil in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
those are medical /lab/scientific grade pumps that have a 1" or larger inlet usually. notice how the gauge clamps on .
pobably about 10 grand or more in pumps not counting the electronic gauge.
Double post error?
Yes, it’s a Welch pump that has a York sticker on it for use with refrigeration systems…Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
However these pumps do have a very wide array of uses. The 1402/YORK pump is used a lot in phase unit evacuative vacuum systems. I get at least one customer a week asking questions about the 1402 that’s refrigeration related. A very similar pump (the 1397B-01) is used a lot in recovery systems as well. But many labs and medical industries use them too (they just don’t buy them through York).
As for connecting this pump to a gauge manifold, there is a NW/KF Flange - Hose Barb adapter:
http://www.tedpella.com/vacuum_html/7010-10.jpg
or the idea way is to get a NW/KF Flange - 1/4" NPT(TF) adapter, then also get a 1/4" NPT(TM) - Flare adapter
http://www.lesker.com/newweb/flanges...e_Figure20.jpghttp://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/5/4...43063008_o.jpg