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I agree it has not let me down yet but with some much more invested in everything else:confused: , but I do wish the 700 ocz was modular to, plus I read a couple of good reviews on it who is to believe what, one says this one says that I am now the proud owner of 3 power supplies, 4 gigs of ram, 2 mobo's, 2 cases, 9500zalman on the way, that from what I read here does not seem like its going to cool much better than stock, sale at zipzoomdum:DQuote:
Originally Posted by jonnyGURU
It's hard to know who to believe. That's why it's probably best to just trust personal experience and reviews than third hand information found on a forum.
A lot of the bad rap Ultra gets is from the original X-Connect. I'm not going to even try to defend that thing. The ones sold in the U.S. were made by Youngyear (need I say more? Same OEM as Aspire) but the X2 is made by Wintech (been around longer and same OEM as Sintek.) Totally different construction, QC, etc.
If you really want a modular version of the OCZ, Ryder said there's a modular one coming a few months down the road. If it's anything like the current GameXstream but with modular connectors for only about $20 more, I'd say that is worth waiting for.
Why do people insist in manufacturing and "consuming" modular PSU's. It is proven that they bring a bunch of problems whereas a non-modular PSU is free of them...
:stick:
your basically using the same type connection just on both ends, should be able to be done? with some sort of quality, and the why is to get rid of excess wire that was my reasonQuote:
Originally Posted by Gak
Quote:
Originally Posted by dum
Taken from an interview to R. Dodson. President & founder of PCP&C.
(...)The pins that are used in the modular plugs have a very low capacity to pass current. You’re losing power through those pins. It’s electrical resistance between the male and the female part of the pin, to the extent that the voltage drop in just the pins is equivalent to about two feet of wire. The effect is that modular power supplies, everything else being equal, are capable of about 10% less power than power supplies without modular plugs. And that’s under ideal conditions. In real life it gets worse because the pins loosen, corrode, and burn. Over time the resistance builds up. A year down the road, a guy could be running his system and all of a sudden it stops working reliably, and he has no way of knowing that the reason is because the pin inside that modular plug has become corroded or burned. This technique has been out for about six months, but people are going to find that the reliability is a massive failure point. Also, especially given the way people pull their harnesses around and tie them down, it creates a lot of stress on those pins. So instead of the pins having full 100% contact surface to surface, in most cases those pins are only touching maybe 10% or 30% of their surface area. What’s rated for 5A going through those pins, in reality if the pins aren’t making good contact, your rating’s down to maybe 3A, and with that much constriction, those pins just heat up, and it gets worse. For real pros in the industry, no way would they specify that kind of arrangement. This is a consumer-oriented gimmick.(...)
I believe Jonny will speak to this point better, but essentially the pcp&c position is true, but slightly on the dramatic side. Most users don't disconnect and reconnect lots, they just want to set up a ps with as few cables as possible, and then they are done, short of say adding SLI or a new drive to the mix. So if the connections aren't undone and redone many times, the connections generally remain strong (from a quality ps maker) and the loss in current isn't all that large. You can see any number of Liberty reviews to have further confidence in this. Liberty's failures I think are QC related not cable related - of the one's I've read about.
However, the real question becomes what sorts of things are you willing to sacrifice for less cables and in some cases bling? Do you lower the quality of your PS any, and if so, for what features? I like to err on the entirely safe because, having had a modular PS, I found that with enough things in the system I used 90% of the cables anyway. My case now has a perfectly convenient out of the way place to stow them and I bought it with this in mind. (TJ07)
So modular isn't the end of the world. I don't prefer to take any chances with it, but I just wanted to be sure folks knew that the dramatic statements made by pcp&c make it sound like the devil and it's not quite that.
well all good points but sounds like bad engineering, the plugs can be made better just who is going to step up to the plate, I mean 30% contact is definitley not good, but hey I am with you guys bought the Ocz 700 watt extreme just to be safe
I almost bought a modular PSU... Till i read this and till i saw some pictures with awesome cable managements...Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
The cables not used, with a bit of work can be perfectly conceived. So for me modular PSU's are still in disadvantage.
Indeed this position is overly dramatic - while there is some voltage drop, I don't believe it's a problem with most connectors. 5A capacity per pin is also a lowball figure already... Molex Mini-Fit Juniors for example (the ATX connector, PCI-E connectors) can take 9A per pin IIRC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
That said, I don't care for modular units. For me it's more of a "I'd rather not pay for that particular feature" situation than anything else though. And some of them were/are too expensive for the build quality (I'm looking in your direction, first gen X-Connect).
Jonny
Any luck getting a replacement OCZ GX psu? Your first round testing seemed to be kind of "not so good". Was curious what the news was.
:)
RyderOCZ wants me to send it back for replacement. So I've got it sitting here next to me in the box and will probably ship it back to them this weekend.
What a pile of :banana::banana::banana::banana: this psu is.
Just recived my 700w gameXtreme PSU and its more craper than my 580w modular Tagan lol
rails are pure :banana::banana::banana::banana:, even though i havent had a crash the rails are utterly :banana::banana::banana::banana:.
and im not even pushing the psu anywhere near its max either lol
X2 4400+ @2.7
DFI Lp Nf4
2x1gig G.Skill
2 optical drives
2 sata hdd`s + 1 pata
xfi Sound card
3 120mm fans + 2 80mm
1x X1900XTX
System Info:
Temperatures
Motherboard 44 °C
CPU 32 °C
North Bridge 41 °C
GPU 43 °C
Cooling Fans
CPU 1318 RPM
System 1430 RPM
Chipset 5273 RPM
Voltage Values
CPU Core 1.52 V
+3.3 V 3.22 V
+5 V 4.81 V
+12 V 12.10 V
+5 V Standby 4.89 V
VBAT Battery 3.07 V
Even my Tagan had steller 3.3 and 5v lines never dipping under spec
the only line that dipped on my tagan was the 12v line and it dipped to 11.97v
and those mesurements above are idle for the ocz 700w psu, i can just imagine what there like under stress...
and dont tell me i need to mesure the volts with a multimeter or some sort becuse even useing the mobo to detect the info the tagans readings where the same
even in the bios it reports what everest is reporting to me in windows.
i have will say one thing im not useing OCZ PSU`s anymore there crap.
i new i shouldnt have went with a company that i knew nothing about when it comes to psu`s that is.
Yes but still did you measure via multimeter... don't trust software for reporting rails and anyone who knows about psus won't even put any weight to your claims until you do measure via a multimeter :)
What im trying to get at though is i read the same information on the tagan as i did the OCZQuote:
Originally Posted by eva2000
i just read what was reported in the bios on both PSU`s
now why would the OCZ thats more powerfull than the tagan show lower information than the Tagan ehhh ?? explain that one to me ehhh..
:wierd: Just read the fckng thread :slap:Quote:
Originally Posted by ViRuS2k
Dude.. please.... I'm doing you a favor when I tell you to cut and run now... you don't know what you're talking about. ;)
I might have my issues with the GameXstream's ripple, but voltage regulation is not a fault of the GameXstream.
You CAN NOT gage the quality of a power supply by "how high" it is over 3.3V, 5V and 12V. That simply makes no difference at all, as long as voltages are within 5%.
If you presented me with a PSU that was 11.9V idle and 11.87V under a big load, and then presented me with a PSU that was 12.15 idle and 12.03 under load, I would take the one that was 11.87V under load!!!!!
Why!?!?!
Because it only showd a .03V drop in voltage. It has tighter load regulation than the other PSU that dropped .12V.
Measuring voltages on a PSU, whether you use software or a DMM, is not an exact science. You can measure at the PCB of the PSU, but you're not compensating for resistance on the wire or connector. You can measure at an available Molex, but that voltage is going to be different from the voltage you get at another connector depending on the length of that wire and how many devices and how much juice each of those devices draws between your DMM and the PSU.
The only thing you can gage accurately is load regulation, and you haven't done that so you can't make a judgement call. Find one point on your computer where you can measure voltages with a DMM and always use that same point. I try to probe the back end of a connector that's in use. That way you know you're taking a voltage from a lead that's under load. Take a voltage reading idle and at full load and subtract one from another.
If you're able to reproduce a "full load" then 1% (.12V drop from idle to load on the 12V rail, for example) is excellent. 2% is good. 3% is acceptable. 4% or more is garbage.
Since it's not likely you're going to put the PSU under "full load" you want to figure out how much percentage of the PSU's capability you're using and then calculate accordingly. Everyone should spend $30 and get a Kill-A-Watt. Seriously. ;)
For example, if you have an OCZ 700W and you're pulling 234W AC from the wall, multiply that by 75% (I always use 75% despite what the PSU company "claims" efficiency to be) and you come up with 175.5W DC. That's about 25% of the PSU's peak power capability. So I would then expect .25% for excellent load regulation, .50% for good, etc.
Of course, this isn't an exact science since many power supplies voltage doesn't drop on a steady downward slope.
Take the SinTek 500SLI I reviewed here: http://www.jonnyguru.com/PSU/Sintek500W/
The 12V voltage only dropped .1V going from 145.8W to 460.1W (8A to 26A load.) That's FANTASTIC!!!
But test five showed a drop of another .3V. What's that about? Is it the resistance of the modular connector? Was SinTek a bit optomistic about the capabilities of this PSU? Or is it because of the mild crossload created by dropping the 3.3V and 5V rails in order not to go over 500W? Could be any one of these reasons, but it shows that there's no one good formula for figuring out load regulation while instlalled on a PC. But you can figure out that if you go from 12.1V to 11.8V going from idle to a run of 3DMark, your PSU is hurting!
IF you can trust onboard sensors,Quote:
Originally Posted by ViRuS2k
Then I suppose my 3.3v is at 2.51, and the -12v rail is at -1.58
And when i put my PC under load, the rails dont budge, its only junky generic PSUs where the rails go down enough to be noticed underload
Ok fair points guys.
i take back what i said about OCZ then im just worryed this PSU is underperforming compared to the 580w tagan i had lol
but seriously i havent had any power outages or reboots yet so i guess everything is within its optimum draw. i hope lol
hehe when idleing the 12v is at 12.10v and under GPU load it drops to 11.97v hehe
That's cool. I mean.. depending on the actual load, but that's only .13V drop.Quote:
Originally Posted by ViRuS2k
Like I said; I'd rather have that than a .2V drop from 12.3V. ;)
Don't trust onboard sensors, period! Even cheap Chinese multimeter will measure rails :)
I've compared a few cheam DMMs and only 0.01-0.02V difference from Fluke :toast:
As for PSU, it is very good. I have FSP Epsilon 700 which is the same as OCZ 700 and I had 0 issues so far. Rails are stable, powering oc conroe rig, 5 hdds, x1900
Just FYI, I just got a second one of these, and I think I'm known to be Mr Picky.
As opposed to some previous poster I used a DMM to check voltages on my first one and found them to be much more accurate than even the OCZ spec says.