I havent decided yet if I'm going to enter in this competition. Too many things going on right now, but luckily there is time :D
Printable View
I havent decided yet if I'm going to enter in this competition. Too many things going on right now, but luckily there is time :D
Members of the competition, please post your ice batch shots here
I have no proper thermometer, will my G-Froster count?Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeXE
I'm bidding on a nice UEI on ebay,If I win the auciton I'll get ice bath shots done quickly.
My thermo :
http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ermo/volt0.jpg
With rules like Fhqwhgads6680 wrote we rather wouldn't be having ghetto auto-cs like there were in previous auto competition :D
I think that 200W resistorload is a bit overkill, 150W resistorload is much bigger load, than eg. A64 Venice on 1.8V and clocked to 3.3 ghz :rolleyes:
@johann : You're going to use SC21CL ??
Regards
Peter
I am in, just to participate.
Embraco 1/2 HP compressor
Captube/captube
R507/Co2.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1142313354
did everbody suddenly forget that r4** gasses aren't suitable for autocascades? I see lots of people with r402a.
I sacrificed one of my son's Ice Lollies for this :D
http://www.imgbox.co.uk/uploads/aa7ee6ecec.jpg
That REALLY shows how bad the original UEI probes are, both of them showed about the same at 3-4c. Get's much worse at -50.
http://www.imgbox.co.uk/uploads/6f3746be4e.jpg
Swapped over the replacement probe from the Fluke to the UEI, much better. Still way off using 2 probes tho :rolleyes:
http://www.imgbox.co.uk/uploads/774059e000.jpg
And my son, very scruffy at that time of day, who coincidentally had just eaten of the Ice Lollies I stole for my icebath :D
Cheers
Gray
LOL @ Grey
Nice looking young whipper snapper you got there.
oh...dang didn't realize that...whats the reasoning, is it cause its blended or what? still learning about autocascades...its what I had that was a good gas so I figured it'd be ok. I guess then 507 would be the best first stage choice then...thoughts on this? thanks for letting me know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown_road
Brandon J
r22 or r507.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eshbach
Eshbach is making alot of sense here.
If we remember back to first autocascade competition there were only a very few ppl that actually got their autocascades to well autocascade.
Apart for chillys autocacade that he recharged, no one else actually owns a autocascade that’s cooling their pc.
I had my autocascade running on my gpu at some stage and was quiet hard to get it to hold nice loaded temps to that what ya get on a king single stage.
So asking ppl to cool a 150W-200w heatload is not going to yield temps much better temps than an average big single stage.
I have some issues with heatloads and how ppl construct them. Firstly the resistors arnt all the same size so when you attach them to a cold plate some parts of the resistors run hotter than other parts. Depending on the contact mount between the resistors/cold plate and evap head will also greatly effect how much heat is actually being removed.
Also how can we tell if the dummy loads are even being powered??
Also some ppl use 3mm cold plate between the resistor load and evap, other use 25mm copper plates, some use aluminium some use copper etc.
There is also the risk of ppl electrocuting them selves.
These little dummy loads are live mains voltage, and if not build correctly, someones gonna get zapped. I am yet to see ppl ground their dummy loads.
The resistors that are used in these dummy loads are only rated to 50w each. So ppl using 3 resistors and running them at 200w, well the resistors are over powered and are gonna burn out in time.
For the last autocascade competition we kept it real simple, lowest noload temp was winner.
Since these coolers are meant to be used to cool cpus, why not judge them on best loaded cpu. To be fair cpus must be run at stock speeds loaded by OCT with a pic of temp probe and screen dumb of die temps after 30mins.
Ppl can tune their autoacasdes on dummy loads if like, and could also OC the crap out of their CPU to see how the autocascade handles high loads.
But keeping the heatload to a stock cpu means heat loads of around 80w.
And we all know that cooling a t stock cpu isn’t that hard and gives some nice temps, both evap heads and die temps.
Why not just remove the rules and have the judges make there own assesments on catagories including temperatures and such? Removes a lot of the complexity.
We're having a fun little autocascade competition where we all just want to get autocascades running, we're not fighting a war.
Well either way when it comes to the Guide lines (rules)... gota to fix my Omega for calibration first.
But I'm in with a KAJB-010E-CAV... refrigerant will prob change as time goes on. Have to do some testing before I could make that obligation.
/em from some noob in the background, "Rules are made to be broken"
"I second that"
As for the equipment I'm using, it's subject to change, but right now I have a 1/2HP matsu and I'll be using R22 in the first stage. Second stage gas is undecided as of yet, but It probably won't be CO2.
anyway, here's my ice-bat shot:
http://www.baughman-eshbach.com/temp/thermo.jpg
I can aready see Redwolfs AutoC :D No one can compete with that monster when its ready.
BTW I have grounded my loadblock :) And I got my last autocascade to hold decent temps with 180w resistor. The real problem was to keep the whole compressor from freezing in the process. Well 1.7hp and 34cc does have slight advantage over 1/2hp and 12cc :P
@Kayl - some nice ideas.
@Redwolf - so, I will add you when you`ll be sure about participate in competition, ok ? :)
Maybe Chilly1 will said something about testing of working auto-c, on what load ite. He`s the judge, so maybe he will have some nice ideas like Kayl.
r4** gasses seperate in the phase-sepQuote:
Originally Posted by Fhqwhgads6680
redwolf's going to join? oke this is going to be fun! :)
So R507 would be separated too :( ...it's very similar azeotrope mix like R404a .Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown_road
r5** gasses don't seperate, that's why those gasses may be vapor charged and r4** gasses need to be liquid charged.
Ahh that makes sense....well luke, put me down for 507 then instead of 402a.Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown_road
Done ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fhqwhgads6680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
I dont know if a popsicle counds b/c of freezing point depression. I guess it isnt too bad with sugar but its probably still a no no.
btw i was always concered about putting a probe into a liquid. If the liquid is slightly conductive does that effect the Ohms of the probe? (which in turn changes the temperature)
Very good point. Trying to cheat Gray Mole? You sly little devil. :P
So what are the limitations then?
wow, with Unknown Road running around barking at people over what gas they use or saying that he won't get involved unless the heatload he wants is used, and getting slated for using an 'Ice Lolly' for my icebath, it's sure sucking the fun out of this 'fun' competition.
Take me off the list.
Gray
Aww common Gray Mole. Unknown's just heavily trying to level the play field. It won't be the same without you in this.
I have a few rule clarifications I would like:
1: Are commercial sight glasses aloud?
2: - there are no condenser limitations as longas the ambient temps are above 20C -
This just means that the room temperature has to be above 20C, correct? I have been told that this may mean the condensing temperature of the first stage must be above 20C. I would say I don't really like that rule... it would seem to rule out all kinds of things, like having a suction line heat exchanger on the first stage. basically it would mean your first stage can't be below 20C anywhere but the evap... please clarify.
I think they mean that any air to refrigerant or water to refrigerant heat exchangers may not be below 20C. As for sightglass'es, its dangerous to have people attempting to build there own.
yes, but the definition of ambient is: "of the surrounding area or environment".Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
So the rule basically says "The temperature of the surrounding area or environment must be over 20C."
That, I have no problem with.
dont quit Gray Mole, Unknown Road is just upset case when he did his autocascade ages back he never actually got it to autocascade :stick: let alone hold 200w :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
i would say ambient room temp has to be above 20c.Quote:
Originally Posted by eshbach
really any parts should be allowed commercial / non-commercial, its not gonna help that much, its more how ppl put their system together, metering devices and refrigerant ratios.
Im a little scared that Redwolf has joined, his autocascade at TeampUSS is one mean AUtoC:slapass:
A pressure releif valve is more important than a pressure cut off switch.As pressure can continue to rise even after compressor is off. BOTH should be used.
Okey, I just changed this to: "-there are no condenser limitations." and now is ok :DQuote:
Originally Posted by eshbach
cool, thanks very much for clearing it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeXE
I didn't say anything about the ice lolly?! I thought it was one of the funniest posts I've seen in a while over here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
and If you want to use r4** gasses I don't mind! I just give advice that the gasses will seperate and thus don't work properly.
about the heatload, I would like if people would tune the autocascade on 200watt cpu heatload. But majority doesn't so that's fine with me, I didn't rattle on about it. just said it once.
I'm absolutly not trying to take the fun out of it. sorry if some of my posts seem harsh or anything. please join in with the compo.
maybe I'm even in since we aren't limited to co2 anymore.
@kayl: your right :) Stil can't get the damn thing to work the way I want.
@wdrzal: a pressure relief valve will make lots of people crazy. takes you days to tune the autocascade, blood, sweat and cries, and what does the damn valve do, it trows away the whole balance in a second :D
And the relief should be ducted to outside to make it safe. I wouldnt want to be next to one that blows refrigerant to my face at 300+psi :S or in the same room for that matter.
just a valve or a solenoid with the high pressure cut off between high and low side. :)
thats the way they do it in commercial phase-change install's
i know they have a pressure relief to but thats a waste of refrigerant.
Hey Gray, Don't leave the compotition man. This IS for fun, and its not like there are any prizes so let all just have fun with it. Like I said I don't care what the rules are, im game. I see this a purely a learning opportunity, and if I happen to get it to work...then GREAT! if not, i'll probably have learned alot. But I've always found the people in the Phase section of XS to be some of the best. You don't see people flaming or arguing over stupid Sh*t. We all have 2 things in common, We all like computers, and we all like making Sh*T COLD!!! (usually lose go together eh! :D) Those were probably big misunderstandings, and it no reason to drop out man, you've help me alot since I've started getting into this hobby and I'd hate to see ya quit.
@ Unknown, yeah actually I really appreciate that advice, as I said im still learning and see this a another way to further my knowledge. Thanks for letting me know, cause I would have hated to find out the hard way. I value highly constructive critizism, as I want to give this my best attempt and I can learn SO much from you guys!
I'm really looking forward to the competition. Why don't the judges decide on the rules, and make it final, so that we can all get to the fun part eh!
Brandon J
I think it's a good idea to think over the rules and compromise on what you guys want. We don't want anyone upset a little down the road because of a rule they don't agree with. I'm with Fhqwhgads6680 on his viewpoint. It will be a learning experience for all of us and a good way to join together for some fun.
BTW - Forane r507 says to liquid charge on the container. ;)
@ Grey Mole :buddies:
I thought it wouldn't separate like the 4xx gases would? anyone know about this as im about to buy gases soon....if not I guess I can always go with R290, but I was wanting something with a little more umpf incase I chose a higher pressure gas like R23 to make it easier to condense...
I not in this, but this is how its set up for safe operation. a pressure shut down switch should be set at no more than 350 to 375. to sut down compressor. if pressure continues to rise at 400 psi the internal compressor bypass will open, this allows pressure to the low side for more internal volume. only after these to mesures fail, does a releif valve open releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere. about outside well not really just in a safe direction. these system don't have a large volume and it wouldn' even stay open for a fraction of a second to lower the pressure.
It would only open as a last resort. If you guys ever heard a valve discharge at 450 psi you would have a lot more respect for pressure.
guys think of a line rupturing or a bad braze failing, at of 400 psi the hot oil can be swept out of the compressor and sprayed all over you. Have you ever seen someone sprayed and burnt with hot oil, You would have change your user name, since you wouln't look the same as before the accident.
Lets promote safety here at XS , and be proud of it !!!!!!!!!!!!!
my thought on condensor temps 20c/68f air or water or above thats room temp or guys will be putting heat exchangers or condensors in freezers or running chilled water thru them. The idea behind a auto is to get a gas that condenses at room temp (1 stage gas) to condense a 2nd stage gas. true auto cascading should reach same temps as a cascade.
doing this would be essentlly cheating and will not advance the goal to get a unit to auto cascade.
I think the judges should set the rules, allowing anyone else too, each person is going to want the rules to favor his design and no one will agree.
rules should be simple , 1 compressor, complete unit must be at or above 20c at start up........ pick a heat load it must maintain for 15 to 30 min. safety devices must be used.
just suggestions.
Very good post Walt. I havent seen an oil burst+burn but have heard of one that happened while testing an engine in an test bench/dyno. One of the brake oil lines burst and the oil hit the exhaust manifold resulting on a garage full of flames! Luckily the garage is rather small and did not have enough oxygene to make the whole thing burn. The roof and waals were pretty much filled with burn marks after that!
it dosn't even have to ingnite, the oil is hot enough to cause 3rd degree burns without ingniting. While every knows severs burns to the skin will disfigure and kill you,most people who die quickly, die because they inhaled the super heated vapor thats in the air. It burns your lung sacs and they no longer are able to transfer o2 to your blood.
20 years go a good freind of mine was a employee of a yamaha dealership. he was working on a 3 wheeler that wouldn't start. He pulled the spark plug and hit the electric start button to check for spark. Wellthe cylinder was full of gas and it sprayed in the air and ingnited!!!!! while he suffered 2nd & 3rd degree burns to his face ,neck chest,arms and hands. It was inhaleling superheated vapor that almost killed him. he was lifeflighted to a burn unit where he hung on the edge of death for 2 weeks, he remained there for over 2 months and had to wear thight elastic wraps around his chest arms and neck to minamize scaring for 2 more years .
I wish I could some how transfer all the visual immages that are locked in my brain forever from accidents, then you would know why I,m so safety concious. Accidents ARE PREVENTABLE ,don't let one happen to you.
It doesn't take much heat to turn the water in the atmosphere to a super heated vapor, you don't actually have to breath the burning fuel, just hot vapor to die.
well I don't know about that but in theory r5** gasses don't seperate and thus can be used in an autocascade.Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
I don't know if people want to know but I'll explain something about how to pick your first stage gas:
We all know (from datasheets) that in a normal system when the discharge pressure is lower the suction pressure is lower, aka compression ratio.
to make things not to complicated consider all first stage refrigerants have the same capacity.
so most efficient you pick a first stage refrigerant that condenses the second stage refrigerant at about the same pressure as the first stage refrigerant condenses in the condensor. Offcourse this is very hard to think about before you have build the system and see you it performs but I thought people maybe would like to know this. Now I see everyone picking the first stage refrigerant the coldest refrigerant they've got.
when you use r507 for instance and this gives you a HX temp of -40*C. the CO2 condenses at 10 bar. While the r507 probably needs around 15bar to condens. so the r507 is overkill and in fact reducing efficiency. Interesting or not! :D
Right, so r22 and co2 is more efficienct. Or other such items.
depends on the system, especially suction pressure.
LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by kayl
I let that thing run for a long time... Some time in the 5th month it blew off the bottom of the evap plate. Simply due to the shear force of the dry ice shooting of the captube. My guess on longevity was correct.... won't last.
Yes 507 has to be charged as a liquid. Its not a stable refrigerant. Meaning. R507 does have a slight temperature glide, >1F.
As for the condensor which condenes the first stage refrigerant issue.. I see very large loop holes in the "what ever you want to use". Think it should be simply air cooled in some way... air to air or water to air. No ground loops, no ice in the water, no LN2, no dry ice, or what the hell ever else one can think of.
Would be nice for all the ppl to have to supply a data recording of atleast 24hrs of run time. Showing ambient and evap temps. This way a fair measurement of the data can be judged. Because TD and Time are both taken into condieration.
I consider the autocascade redwolf build as one of the only real autocascades (that worked) no tricks like suction line HX. piece of art if you ask me. Too bad it blew, weird that it happend must have been some force.
Ok Ok, yes I'm a big girl. Yes, I'm a grouchy ba5tard. Yes I'm staying in the competition of that's still ok.
Thanks for the hug, Ron :D
I'll agree with the pressure relief as well if that's going to be in the rules of safety as well.
To be honest, even a properly running Auto will still kick out some serious startup pressures and that would be just one more thing to stay safe :)
Sorry Unknown, shouldn't have taken a swing at you. I haven't been laid in 4 years and as ugly as I am, likley won't EVER again. So hopefully the prozac kicks in soon ;)
For condensing temps I totally agree, though I'll have to wait for summer to get mine up that high. I normally struggle in the winter to keep my ambient up there, and the chances of my wife letting me run a rotary in the house for 1 hour much less 24 are something like 0, or close to it :rolleyes:
Gray
Cheers REdwolf:mad: My ground loop was within the rules until now;)
Regards
John.
no problem gray! glad your in again.
Well I'm a daddy to and I know that sometimes all it takes is a big hug to make things better again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
I feel much better now.:thumbsup:
On with the competition cooler racers. http://teampuss.com/forums/images/sm...psmiliemad.gif
Nope scratch Gray the big wus:slap:
Well are we going to publish some official rules? I just built my HX. My hands are rawwwww...
Here are my IceBath shots...
http://clientes.netvisao.pt/ratax/RataxDT200IceBath.JPG
http://clientes.netvisao.pt/ratax/RataxKaiseIceBath.JPG
The DT200 reached 0,1ºC but didn't take a shot of that, only together in the kaise pic.
if i am not mistake u are suppose to use 80% crushed ice and 20% water.
Will we change the rules in first post of this thread ? Well, if we will, that just write what I must change and I will do it....or judge will do it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
BTW, can members start threads about they auto-c or not ? I`m not sure that I`m asking.
:sofa:Quote:
Originally Posted by pythagoras
hello
@ LukeXE Can you add me for members list (CO2 division of course)
I have a Aspera T6215Z 5/8HP
regards Duniek
Man that things a 2 cyclinder freight train.:eek: Time for a third class.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwolf
Well seeing as I'm in the 'open' class anyway, and I just had a request for a dual head unit based on the Rotary I was wanting to use :rolleyes:
So, new spec...
I'll go back to the 2HP Tecumseh again and see if I can't get 'er to work better this time with some changes to the configuration.
Still R290/R23 but I may do something a little different, and go with a 3 stage Auto instead of 2 this time :D
Cheers
Gray
I'm in, open class. Not sure of specs yet, apart from phase seperator;)
Regards
John.
So ... is there a open class now with no limitations in any way? :stick:
Dunno RLY now ... SRY .... I'm a lil bit confused! :D :(
plz explain! ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
gary that would be so cool!!!!!! maybe get some R14 to condense:slobber:
The first post of this thread is constantly being updated.Quote:
Originally Posted by 404Power
There are two classes
1 - CO2 Division
2 - Open Class
Just thought i'd update my info for my entry. Danfoss SC12G compressor, homemade phase sep, cap tube, will make my own evap or use one of kayl's. Will be using R290 and C02, so I guess that puts me in the beginner class :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
Yes ... I know ... but 1. post only says "High pressure Division" ... and the text at the bottom says it's still limited to some points ... max. 1HP comp, only self-built parts and so on! :( ;)
That's the reason why I asked for "limitations in any way"!
I just updated first post a little bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 404Power
I`m thinking about go to CO2 Division, because probably I will not have other gasses than R290/CO2 :(
To tell you the truth I haven't studied them that close. I believe we're using the rules from the first autocascade competition as a guide line.Quote:
Originally Posted by 404Power
I think the co2 division was limited to 1hp and under with co2 as the high pressure gas.
Open class means - Open :eek:
We'll get the rules all squared away soon. They are basically the same rules as the first competition with a couple of small changes.
Please join in:D
Can't use kayl's evap. It has to be homemade.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie_guy00000
I'm in! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by runmc
3HP Copeland Scroll Comp
4 Stages
Phase sep's : homemade
refrigerants: R507 - R1150/R23 - R14 - R50
rest ... not sure yet
So ... Let's go and get it! :D :cool:
I would love to see that work. And I hope you have a lot of money for these gasses.Quote:
Originally Posted by 404Power
R507: already here ;)
R1150/R23: I think I'll ask YOU for it! :D :)
R14: Will have to write a mail to messer.at or sth.
R50: Should be no problem!
try to build an autocascade with 2 gasses first. that alone is already a major pain in the *ss, building 1 with all those gasses is like undoable ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by 404Power
we´ll see how many autocascade work and how many don´t work :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Unknown_road
I would start with the other end of gases and maeby be able to condence R1150/R23/R508 properly first ;) With 3 stages it wouldnt be that hard, but balancing everything would be a PITA. I was thinking something in the line of R134a-R410a and then one of those gases... Maeby use TEVs for all the stages and EPRs too...Too damn expensive :D
Well .... let my try it first! :D
btw. .... here's my comp! :D
beware .... this is a 2L (!!!) bottle! :cool: ;)
Just saying, this stuff ain't easy. people are free to do what they want but I'm just warning people that they know what they're up to. A 4 stage autocascade with those gasses is even harder then a 4 stage cascade.
I know! ^^ :) but I will try it anyway!
I like to build big things! :D ... so ... let me try it first!
And THEN I will tell ya if it's possible to build a 4 stage auto with this comp and so on! :D ;)
Think you mean if you can build one. Most of us all know it is possible. Hell there are 6stage+ ARC units on the market.Quote:
Originally Posted by 404Power
BTW.. thought it was 1hp max?
Someone plz post the updated rules in a new LOCKED thread.
How about this?
There are so many evaporator out now that I think it will be to hard to govern what your calling homemade. There are some guys making the same exact evap as Chilly1 on a lathe in their garage. If you guys want any limitations on parts, let's so say now or else let's just use whatever parts we want. The CO2 Division won't be using oil seperator, so it doesn't matter to them if we use homemade one or not. We're going to be using manufactured metering devices and pressure switches so I don't see what it matters if we use manufactured oil seperator.
"CO2 Division" - any size compressor up to 1 hp using only CO2 as high pressure refrigerant.
"Open Class" - any compressor up to 1hp using any choice of refrigerant
"Super Pro Class" - any darn thing you want to do.
Can't see why it should matter on basic parts. Other than compressor size. It basicly becomes a joint effert in trying different configerations. Because I dont think everyone will do it exactly the same.
I agree - I think we should just stick to rules on compressor size and gases.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwolf
I'm for that aswell, This is gonna be my first AC attempt and It'd be nice to be able to use some premade parts if possible. I'll still probably try making some of it myself, but I think the true challenge is seeing who get build the best unit and tune it the best (the hard part :( ) Not who can make the best homemade phase sep. But again I do what you guys tell me, I'd just like to see some rules set in stone :)
Brandon J
In my opinion, phase seperator design and construction is the the real key to the autocascade. if your phase seperator works well, there is a good chance you can get the unit working.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fhqwhgads6680
so, i think even if everything else can be purchased, at least the phase sep should have to be home made.
Anyone know where to find copper wool? ;P
I have used copper wire mesh in oil seps. Just get some electrical wires,strip them and make the mesh yourself :)
i like whats runmc's said sounds good.
1HP cap is good also.
I know im going getto, no map gas cans this time.
Maybe just the phase separator must be custom, same with the HX, any thing else goes.
Eshbach i think im gonna cool my phase separator with the suction line, really help the refrigerants separate;)
local super market, copper srubs.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Okey guys, I will move to CO2 division, I will not have other gass than CO2, and I will not use any comercial parts, ony selfmade.
Thanks Kaylo.
Though mapp gas cans are tempting as hell but I'll probably just pick up 3" pipe.
First post updated with official rules.
Well I still want to 'fit' into the competition and really I do'nt see myself as 'super-pro' quite yet ;)
So I'll stick with the rotary at 3/4HP. If I end up with a 3 stager, then it's very likely that my gasses will change a small amount, but will still use 290/R23 officially for the time being.
I'm really busy with some mods and builds for the next week or 2, but will get started on the Auto asap :)
Cheers
Gray
3rd stage coudl be straight ethylene.
Well Gary - the 3/4hp sounds quite respectable to me. I'm starting with a 1/2hp rotary to get the feel of things and I also want to try the 1/2hp out to see how it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
Don't let the word "Super Pro" scare you off, you would fit right in.:banana:
Would it be possible to be added to the eshbach team in the first post?
Edit: Thanks!
Yea, DBlue135 and I do basically all of our projects together, so if it's ok for us to be "team" officially, it would probably be good to indicate that we're working together.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBlue135
done :) I wish good luck to everyone with your projects ! :) just remember, that competition isn`t any kind of war, it`s only for fun :)
LukeXe, dont worry we'll all have fun.
Im gonna get started hopefully in just over a month
12000Btu rotary
r290/1150
capillary line both stages
gonna try a few hxs though, just need to get some more copper tubing /pipe/end caps.
Got my high pressure cut off already set to go.
Heres my ice shot also. (post 147)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...t=72584&page=6
Well, I was talking with Johan about this, an maybe to add some salt to the competition, we (Johan, golden and I) will donate a special edition Froster with K type thermocouples and other surprises as a prize.
I'm not in shape to join the contest, but maybe after my daughter born(next monday is the day), I will join to a fella here and do an atemp :D.
Hereby my congrats allready for youre child ssilencer
(sorry for offtopic)