:woot: I've got a AD0 SLI-DR mobo 2 weeks ago from my local shop...
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:woot: I've got a AD0 SLI-DR mobo 2 weeks ago from my local shop...
NCâ„¢
I have the A01, measured with a multimeter, voltage was seemingly stable.
Though I'll run that again, I had a "0.23 ripple" when running default vcore and doing sp32m while occt'ing.
Anyone know how to hook multimeters or scopes to a laptop to monitor it live? We have some :banana::banana::banana::banana: for TI-xx calculators, but thats useless IMO.
Agreed. That's what the BIOS is there for on the DFI...a nice custom tweak.Quote:
Originally Posted by eva2000
I have not had a problem with vcore. Sorry no multimeter, just occt graph. Not sure what revision. I got this last February when they first came out. Will check later.
<a href="http://img316.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2006010210h09voltcore7pb.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://img316.imageshack.us/img316/6108/2006010210h09voltcore7pb.th.gif" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>
The more I test with the different revisions i've got the more i realize that the occt graphs don't mean squat. I think its as much to do with our powersupplies and the way we acheive the voltage (% or otherwise). I get wildly different results using the same voltage but just changing the way i get there.
I think the best judge of this revision is pure feel, the noticable overclock difference, and stability. That is till someone with a scope can make a real graph under memtest or prime to prove or disprove.
-butter
Speaking of which...a little OT, but HAS ANYONE SEEN EMC2 AROUND? He's a good friend of Saaya and me and we haven't been able to locate him since Sept.....He would have been the perfect guy for the job.......Quote:
Originally Posted by butter_fry
Question on rev AD0 (Ultra-D): can the pencil mod (make it run sli) be done to this board?
You can pencil every Ultra-D to a SLI-D
yep he would and no i havnen't. we need someone with the tools and the know howQuote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
Oh...one thing I forgot to mention before - along with the power circuitry redesign, the AD0 also sports a *different*chipset ;)
AA0
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/121/dfimod6xi.jpg
AD0
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/1...chipset7qp.jpg
I forgot to add - the circles from the old chipset were from another post -
the blue circle is the SLI-Mod (I hard-modded with a resistor) and the red circle is "unknown" ;) (and don't try this mod to the old chipset).......
Yeah mine is like that too.
You say that all the boards can be modded?
I thought som could not, because of NV..
Sorry, I got the circles backwards....and afaik, the sli mod should still be ok....Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackeR
I believe that every Ultra-D can be modded to SLI-D, but that some of them were coated with stuff over the moddable points, which could then be scraped off...
s7e9h3n, why did you add that green resistor (what ohm is that?) instead of just soldering the two points together? I just soldered the two points together.
Hmmm. I wonder if the Expert is using this newer revision chipset too?
I just ordered an Ultra-D from newegg with nextday air. I'm hoping for AD0!
I just bought a defogger kit, are there any posts how to use this to connect the bridges?
Yeah all over DFI-street.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trice
Edit: the link is in angry games's signature (owner of the site).
0 ohm....I figured DFI used resistors for a reason, so why not?Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
BTW, here a pic of my Expert's chipset:
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/1...chipset5zh.jpg
It looks like the exact same core except for the SLI is not bridged. Thanks for the picture s7e9h3n.Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
Is it possible that the two points with Epoxy on the top right are to enable features of the nforce pro 2200 chipset? (If it's not then why put epoxy on them?)
http://www.soneraplaza.fi/GetImages/...0,58172,00.jpg
Just got this in:
http://tinypic.com/jrqtzo.jpg
Thanks for the heads up Stephen!
Which chipset is the pro 2200?Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
Server chipset ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
just got a new ultra d from newegg (old one rma) a few hours ago. its rev ad0, and was easily modded to sli.
the 2200 pro is the server chipset that you see on the tyan and iwill dual opty server boards. i think it only has 2 or 4 usb2 native, and probably lack many enthusiast type features.
Remember - if you're not using SLI, the mod will actually hurt overall performance since SLI takes up cpu resources ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by politenessman
There were also a few ES Msi K8N Neo4 boards with the NF4Pro chipsets on them.....Quote:
Originally Posted by politenessman
this makes me wish i had money.... wait.. i still have my dfi to RMA.. maybe i wont sell my a64 yet! haha!
well my board is almost 1 year old and the v-core is very stable....
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7...core6ip.th.gif
but if i use a higher special-vid than it looks more like this:
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/6...core3uq.th.gif
but no problem cuz i usually don't need v-core above 1,6 v ;)
mfg
Well I'm testing out my AD0 now. The ITE chip that monitors voltages seems to monitor better. The boards voltages seem stable. On my AA0 SLI-DR when I used 1.4 * 104% I got 1.392 volts. Now I get 1.42. My 0530TPMW Opteron 170 is stable at 2.8ghz at this voltage. I will post back when I play with it a little more.
Also, the Capacitors are all black on this board instead of brown like on the older boards. Not sure if they are a different brand or something.
How is it possible to run OCCT on a duel core in order to graph the vcore voltage? You don't get a full load on both cpu's.
run occt 2 times at once?
i dunno :D
mfg
Tried that.. Didn't work. Ya, I thought you could do it just as you would Prime but not..
I wonder if the voltage flucuations are from the cores switching the workload?
Damn, I ordered from newegg and got a SLI-DR, but it's rev. AB0, looks like I'll go get an Expert:rolleyes:
Are AB0's better than aa0's. That's what I have.
My last board was an AA0 and was perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by OnDborder
R.AD0 on my sig.
Working Perfect :D
you cant measure voltage stability with any software. My cpu bumps the voltage ~.-01 volts and the software doesnt have a clue. So dont even bother with OCCT for voltage stability.
You need a DMM (with chart recorder) or scope meter to see voltage stability.
:clap: :clap: I 100% agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
yep, I've got subjective results, but i'm holding off any judgement untill someone with the correct tools does some work.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
That's what I found, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
The sensors on all my boards "make up" fluctuations to some minor or bigger degree.
Steven, I want to reinterate that we want that vtt mod, please.
Really?!?! I never knew that... (stupid me)Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
I mean, even if you have all the jumpers disabling it?
All the jumpers do is change the amount of PCI Express lanes going to each slot.Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
After having no luck with the expert, thought that I would give this new revision a try. So far working great, but noticed that the temp readings seem way too low. Had the same thing with the expert. My case temp is 24, but smart guardian is showing idle at 21, wtf?? Load is 33-34. Is anyone else seeing this with the AD0 board? I'm wonderering if some of the changes to this board are also on the expert.
Hmmm. My idle temps are lower. Its pretty cool in here (window cracked its 50 degrees outside).Quote:
Originally Posted by 4X4N
http://tinypic.com/k0q3hs.png
Same cpu on my old ultra-d (Rev.A02) idle was 30-31 and load was 42-43. I think the sensor is off 8-10 degrees.
I just picked up a board which was new stock to the shop (I know this as I had to wait in the shop for the owner to get the board from the distributor as he was out of stock). The sticker on the PCI slot shows R.AB0, the one on the Karajan module R.A00 and the layout of the Mosfets on the PCB are the same to that in the initial R.AD0 picture within the 1st post.
Whats the go with this board? I am tossing up whether to return it or not for a new revision (as it is still sealed) after hearing inconsistant reports within here of low HTT with R.AB0 boards and now with the hardware changes.
Is this a hybrid/mongrel board?
Do you think its an old RMA'd board with the hardware changes?
Do the Karajan audio modules have seperate revision codes as opposed to the motherboard?
What would you guys personally do if in a similar situation? I'am confused as hell and have only had intensive experience with the NF3 Ultra D (ref: sig).
The 3 changes with the mosfets, regulator and capactior have been done with the board, which I think are important, but I still do not understand why there is such an outdated revision number on the sticker (I doubt the disty had such old stock as DFI's have been selling like hot cakes since release in Aus).
Any information is appreciated :toast:
Could be the same as the AD0's with a new bios. As far as I know, theres only one revision of the Karajan audio module.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRevhead
I was initially thinking that but thought it didnt make sense considering DFI's revision code history. Wouldnt the next revision be R.B00 if that was the case?Quote:
Originally Posted by derektm
If I order from egg today you think I'll get AD0 on an ultra-d?
How well do you think this will stack up to the expert board?
Yes I think you will. After the initial reports of people getting the new revision of the board from newegg, I waited another week just to be sure I'd get one. Sure enough, ordered one from newegg and had it next day air shipped, and it was AD0. So far this has been an amazingly stable board. Not a crash yet and I have put this board through a total of 70+ hours of Prime95 :slobber: . It goes against the expert pretty well. Sure it doesn't have the new layout etc. but if you want to avoid the problems the expert has or has had then just get one of these. It has a more mature bios and the new revision makes it even better :clap: .Quote:
Originally Posted by foodfightr
Good luck!
Yes, newegg has them. Rma'd my expert and got an AD0 ultra-d on friday from there. If you don't need sli, I'd say this version is the one to get. Currently primimg at 10x280, with my tccd 2.5-3-3-6. I couldn't get the expert over 240 with those timings.Quote:
Originally Posted by foodfightr
Some info..
I´m got some more info becuse i´m so stupid and learned it the stupid way :stick:
AD0 and AB0 is the same s*it but got diffrent names:fact:
Just got my AD0 from Monarch. My idle temps are way low also, 16-17c. On my a00 used to be 26-30, depending on the room temp.
LV: My AD0 is like the one posted in this thread.. And so should most of them be. Are you completely sure you do have AD0 and that it does not have these small changes?
It sounds very strange..
OnDborder: As said before, you cannot really trust this if you got it from the sensors. They may change a bit from board to board.. And what cooling do you have, at what roomtemp?
What about my AB0 and how it resembles an AD0 (in terms of changes to componentry). LV, I found your post interesting as a very similar thing has also happened to me. I wonder what could be causing this inconsistancy.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackeR
AB0 and AD0 is same boards trust me maybe AD0 got newer bios but thats all.Quote:
Originally Posted by OnDborder
Hmmm...my AB0 sli-d is the same as the old ultra-d......Quote:
Originally Posted by Lastviking
I want what you've been smokin'.. There is physical changes on my AD0 from my AB0.. I checked before I installed.
I'm running water at the room temp, at the time, of 69f.
What model board are you runnign Ultra D, Sli-D or Sli-DR?Quote:
Originally Posted by OnDborder
What exactly are the physical hardware changes that you have noticed between your two comparison pieces, besides those already mentioned within the 1st post?
Reason I ask is because I just confirmed through the distributor who imported my board into the country, the AB0 I have was apparently with the latest shipment from Hong Kong through DFI, so it is definately not an 8 month old board, about the time the original AB0's were out.
It also has the 3 listed changes as seen in the initial post, hence the reason why I think LV maybe onto something with what he is saying.
Although, this may vary with non-Ultra D models as we are seeing with s7e9h3n's experiences.
Got 2x AB0 board both have same layout and the "3-5 caps and the mosfett" are in same place like the AD0 board.
LP UT NF4 ULTRA-D(dual GB lan)
AB0 S/N:5080XXXX
Second was:
LP UT NF4-D(1 gb lan)
AB0 S/N:U5360XXXX
And the AD0:
LP UT NF4 ULTRA-D(dual GB lan)
AD0 S/N:U541XXXXX
The AD0 are soon on the way back to the shop.
Some more info both AB0 did HTT 400 and also 290mhz+ (1,1) 2-2-2-5
Thanks for the thorough info :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lastviking
Well. That's around 20C. How to get 16-17c from that cooling? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by OnDborder
How old are your boards, LV? It seems the AD0's have been out for a while. I think what might have happened is sth like this:
DFI replans production of boards with these changes. They are build AB0 at the time. Oskar is building a new BIOS.
The new boards come in before the new BIOS is ready, so new boards are shipped with AB0 because it is really bios that determines the rev. Then they change bios too, and it is AD0.
Here's the AB0 Attachment 42212
Here's the AD0 Attachment 42213
Sorry about the AD0 pic. The board was already installed. It's an Ultra-D model. When I ordered it, monarch said they recieved these in the last week of Dec. I got my AB0 from mwave in the early part of 2k5.
Ya, I know it's not correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackeR
There is a slight difference in the boards as you can see in my pix.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackeR
Your CPU idles at 16-17C? I'm assuming this isn't air or non-chilled water... cuz if it is, there's no way your room is that cold!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by OnDborder
I've never idled less than 24-25C with water... even when my room is cold. I could understand 21-22C, but 16C? Your room has got to be freezing if you're not chilling your water (noticed you're on WC from sig).
We just confirmed that is wrong ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
ODB: yeah, yours are, but two members seem to have gotten AB0's with the changes.
Yeah, cuz that woulda been like 60F... pretty chilly for a bedroom, but it's always to stay warm under the covers with a chilly room.
Off topic, but I've been sleeping with the window open in my bedroom every single night for the past week. My OCed opty 170, OCed opty 148, p4 2.53, monitors, vid cards and whatnot still keep my bedroom the hottest in my house, EVEN with window open... and I live in NY too, so it's a little chilly out these days.
The guy's with AD0s... do you guys see less vdimm fluctuations as well? I've been selling off my UTT left and right because I'm tired of the vdimm instability (back on TCCD on both of my DFI boards)... I feel like it's been holding me back, and I have one set of BH5 and one set of BH5 UTT left... I'm going to sell it if I can't figure out a stable vdimm solution. The expert for $200 is not worth it for me, but maybe if this AD0 is worth it, I may go for it.
Attachment 42213
My 2x AB0 looks like your AD0 :p: , can you give me your S/N on your AB0?, i think someone on dfi have used wrong stickers on some boards :stick: , My first AB0 was buyed in july
On my AB0, D51305308. If you need the one for the AD0, it'll have to be later, cuz it's installed and I need to find a small mirror.
On the temp thing, there is a thread over at DFI forums on a "temp bug" on the Expert mb. Kind of sounds alot like my situation. They read 10c lower. I'd link it but their site is down.
Where is the temp probe located anyways? Maybe it's just a bad placement and you can tilt it a bit? I think that some of the AXP mobos did the same crap, and a simple tilt of the sensor fixed it.
godman: It is in the die of the CPU, so it should be fine.
LV: mine reads U54103794.. But i think my explanation is more likely than wrong stickers, as it has been bios that dictates rev. up till now ;)
Thx for clarification, Slacker... I didn't know that the probe was located in the CPU. Wouldn't that mean that the chip is the problem with incorrect temps?
yup. my nf4-d is AB0Quote:
Originally Posted by Lastviking
but through the pics of this post, the outlook is AD0 that one
Quite possibly the NF4-D is using different revision numbers as opposed to the NF4 Ultra D, causing the NF4-D to have the same changes as the lastest AD0 NF4 Ultra D's (in terms of physical componantry) but with a revision number that is 2 revisions prior to the latest seen on the Ultra. This could have been due to the NF4-D being launched slightly later than the Ultra D or requiring less bios changes over its development as opposed to the Ultra D.
I guess the reading from the probe is interpreted in a different way by this board or sth. Really ard to tell, but there is more to it than the probe itself, which is a quite passive component. The logics used to read the probe and eventually the hardware used for it plays a role :)Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
i love my AD0. my chip used to need 1.51v for 280x9, when i was testing it. the vcore would flux up and down. now with my new AD0 Ultra-D from the egg, vcore is PERFECTLY stable at 1.408v, and 280x9 id chugging along like a champ.
Reply from DFI Distro in my country:
"Hi ABCDE, thanks for your interest in our products.
As far as I know, AD0 is a bios revision, not a mainboard revision - you should be able to flash any board's bios to the most current, thereby alleviating the need to purchase with that bios already installed.
Hope this helps;
Thanks, have a great day!"
Placebo effect on you guys lol !!!
I agree with LV.
Oh. Why are the components differently placed on our motherboards then?Quote:
Originally Posted by GMX
As i said, AD0 might be a bios revisison, but there IS a new board revision too.
It's funny how when you ask them they don't even know. We know more than the people we ask questions to.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackeR
I need more HTT and I'm getting ready to make the jump from my AB0 Ultra D to a AD0 just on the chance that I can get some higher speeds out of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
Desperation setting in. Am I wasting my time here? Newegg will be shipping today.
I wanted to buy the Expert board just b/c of higher speeds and stability, but I couldn't justify $200 for it. I also don't need SLI, as I'm using an ATI card.
If the AD0 really performs almost as good as Expert, then I'm going for it too... just need more proof. :D
Also, why go Expert when you can still mod these to SLI? I have had an extra SLI bridge anyways, so...
i've got a AD0 too :D , the highest htt i could achive was ~295 :( :stick:
You're not giving me a high level of comfort here with that statement. Anybody else have any answers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican
I've read your other thread (about hitting 300+ htt) and i've got the same problem with my board. at 300, the board won't boot. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapier
Maybe we can work together to solve the prob. :)
c u
I run my opty @ 300x10 4x HTT without problem :fact:
You guys are hitting a wall at 300? That's not like the DFI NF4...
Are you guys running low CPU multis? Are you running the x3 or x2 LDT?
Also, you should try upping the LDT or chipset voltage. I've had gains with upping the LDT voltage before.
Another biggie is a RAM divider...
i.e. My Opteron 148 would not boot beyond ~285fsb with the x10 multi on the 166 divider... when I ran 1:1, it did 300x10 with EASE...
You guys may be overlooking things... Can you verify? :D
1. I'm running it at the max 10x multiplier.Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
2. I've played with all the voltage options core, LDT and chipset. Nothing seems to make a difference.
3. I'm running Geil PC4400 ram on a 166 divisor. The stuff is rated for 275 fsb so that shouldn't be an issue.
Puzzled (with AD0 on the way, now)
Better jumperless ram voltage options, jumperless SLI configuration (a real benefit if you like bench comparisons between SLI and non SLI), and, most importantly, a MUCH better spacing between the PCI-E slots that allow better SLI cooling solutions to be used, and a 3rd PCI slot that is actually usable when the board is configured for SLI using double slot width cards.Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
These improvements are worth every dime for the hardcore users running SLI and water cooling.
Refer to post #177.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackeR
I believe if more people referred to whether they are using a Ultra D or NF4-D when quoting the revisions, this may help resolve the discrepencies we are seeing. LV & Wai Wai's identical AB0's have both been NF4-D's not Ultra-D's.
Not too sure if that first Ultra-D AB0 LV quoted though has the AD0 layout we are looking for, maybe this can be verified.
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
i'm running LDT x3. LDT is set to 1.40V and Chipset Voltage is set to 1.70V.
I'm using ram divider 166 with my ocz vx 4000.
I use cpu-multi 10, but it also doesn't work with 9. :(
with a htt over 295 windows won't boot. it always freezed during loading.
max htt is 290 now.
c u
This with the Vapo? Sure your CPU doesnt get effected by the cold bug?Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican
yes it's with the vapo :) . i don't think the cpu get effected by the cold-bug, because it's able to run 264x12=3168 24/7 stable. Why should there a cold bug with 300 htt? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRevhead
c u
Wow, I overlooked all of those. Good points. Well, I guess my point kinda does make sense when you think about the whole SLI thing. If you're not going SLI at all, then it's kinda worth it... only thing is that the ram voltage options are awesome on the Expert. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by mdzcpa
Dude, I SERIOUSLY think that it's your divider that is causing you your problems. Before my opty170, my opty148 was my main rig and I had a 144 as my 2ndary. They 148 would run my 180 divider with my bh5 ram without a problem. I was running 275-280fsb x 11, but my ram was only at high 230s that way (~240mhz @ 1.5-2-6-2). That was NO WHERE near what my ram could do, so I went ahead and used someone's divider/fsb program (I forget who made it, but there is a prog that I was using that helps you out where you plug in the cpu freq you want and ram freq and it gives you lists).Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican
I also read up about how the dividers are calculated exactly and figured out that at 300htt and 166 divider that the ram does 250mhz, which was almost perfect in my case.
So... I went ahead and tried the x10 multi. The board would NOT even get to windows logo without rebooting at anything above ~285HTT with the 166 divider. I took a guess and decided it was the divider that was screwing it up. Unfortunately, I had sold all of my TCCD before purchasing the 148 (I had the 144 for a little bit before the 148 and had no issues with UTT or BH5).
I figured that I'd try to use no dividers with the x10 multi to prove a point. I went ahead and bought some OCZ Plat Rev2 3200 off ebay. I threw those suckers in at 300x10 with a 1:1 multi at 3-4-4-8 and wabaam!!! I made it to windows without a hitch!
I ended up stabilizing 300x10 2.5-4-3-7, and probably coulda pushed more, but I definitely proved to myself that the 166 divider in combination with the x10 multi wasn't working.
Conclusion: always test your dividers and play with them, especially when it comes to figuring out the max HTT of your mobo. Another good thing to test is even LOWER multis (maybe x7 or x8) cuz they may work differently (better) with dividers.
You cannot claim that a board doesn't do a certain HTT without trying out all of these factors... don't forget, LDT voltage and chipset voltage may help as well.
I know you said that you tried different voltages, but maybe if you can't borrow a TCCD/5 set from someone, then you can try lower CPU multis with the dividers and see if that helps. Not for all, but dividers are REALLY picky with some setups...
True. I have AD0 Ultra-D for the record. "AD0 Layout".Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRevhead
1st: thanks for the tips mate :toast:Quote:
Dude, I SERIOUSLY think that it's your divider that is causing you your problems. Before my opty170, my opty148 was my main rig and I had a 144 as my 2ndary. They 148 would run my 180 divider with my bh5 ram without a problem. I was running 275-280fsb x 11, but my ram was only at high 230s that way (~240mhz @ 1.5-2-6-2). That was NO WHERE near what my ram could do, so I went ahead and used someone's divider/fsb program (I forget who made it, but there is a prog that I was using that helps you out where you plug in the cpu freq you want and ram freq and it gives you lists).
I also read up about how the dividers are calculated exactly and figured out that at 300htt and 166 divider that the ram does 250mhz, which was almost perfect in my case.
So... I went ahead and tried the x10 multi. The board would NOT even get to windows logo without rebooting at anything above ~285HTT with the 166 divider. I took a guess and decided it was the divider that was screwing it up. Unfortunately, I had sold all of my TCCD before purchasing the 148 (I had the 144 for a little bit before the 148 and had no issues with UTT or BH5).
I figured that I'd try to use no dividers with the x10 multi to prove a point. I went ahead and bought some OCZ Plat Rev2 3200 off ebay. I threw those suckers in at 300x10 with a 1:1 multi at 3-4-4-8 and wabaam!!! I made it to windows without a hitch!
I ended up stabilizing 300x10 2.5-4-3-7, and probably coulda pushed more, but I definitely proved to myself that the 166 divider in combination with the x10 multi wasn't working.
Conclusion: always test your dividers and play with them, especially when it comes to figuring out the max HTT of your mobo. Another good thing to test is even LOWER multis (maybe x7 or x8) cuz they may work differently (better) with dividers.
You cannot claim that a board doesn't do a certain HTT without trying out all of these factors... don't forget, LDT voltage and chipset voltage may help as well.
I know you said that you tried different voltages, but maybe if you can't borrow a TCCD/5 set from someone, then you can try lower CPU multis with the dividers and see if that helps. Not for all, but dividers are REALLY picky with some setups...
2nd: i've tried allmost everything to get the board stable past 290 without success. i've tried it with multi 10,9,8,7 and 6 and it's always about the same :(
i've also tried the dividers 100/133 and 166 with different ram settings + different LDT & Chipset Voltage. LDT Multi was always set to 3. :slapass:
Could it be that i've got a bad mem-controller on the cpu, so that ~290 would be the max.? :confused:
I think the best i can do is, to sell the vx and get some tccd. Could you recommend some good sticks ? (G-Skill, or whatever else? )
thanks in advance Turrican
If you didn't live overseas, I woulda lent you one of my TCCD sets. I cannot really say that you should replace your current set with TCCD b/c it's likely that it wouldn't solve your problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican
What you're going through is the reason I bought TCCD again. I used to have gigs and gigs of UTT (after I sold all of my TCCD), but after I came into the problem that you were having, I ended up convincing myself that I needed a set of TCCD around as well.
Maybe you could find a 256mb stick of TCCD for <$50 and just have that around... see if you could do that... :D
Unless, of course, you can find someone to LEND you a kit.
Hmm i did have the same problem but i found a cure for it :), before i had a winchester(orginal multiplier was 9x), i could not run over 260fsb with multiplier 9x, used 8x to i got my 146. The 146 got orginal multiplier 10x i got same problem with it 10x didnt work over 260fsb but 9x did work on the 146.So i tryied to find out the problem"settings in bios and more" . Then i reflashed the bios and after that all multipliers and dividers worked fine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
BIOS fixed a divider problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lastviking
Well, my problem was either on the 702-3, or the 623-3... don't recall.
Turrican, try a diff bios like the man says... :D