Hmm.. Mag2, 3, 5, and 7. Never heard of a Mag6. You have a link? I would be interested in looking at the specs.
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Hmm.. Mag2, 3, 5, and 7. Never heard of a Mag6. You have a link? I would be interested in looking at the specs.
Hmmmm I have a mag6... And yet they are no longer listed. Discontinued? Then 5 or 7 should be suitable...
Oh, sorry, :slap: the fan is going to be mounted to a saddle T at the bottom of the 8 inch pipe, just above the reducer coupling. I was thinking of using a SilenX 80mm fan on a rheostat (spelling?) to adjust airflow in the tube. I also have a $10 Walgreens showerhead picked out that is like 7 inches in diameter. :toast: Right now I am just gonna have a Swifty 6002 block with 1/2 inch lines. I plan to add a video card at some point, but I want to make this friggin comp quieter than it is. It plays WoW, DoW, and the other games I play, so I don't "NEED" a vid card yet.
The reducer coupling has about 8 inches of overlap on the 10 inch pipe and 6 on the 8 inch pipe, The saddle T goes about halfway around the 8 inch pipe and is about 11 inches tall, I am gonna use SOOOO MUCH pipe glue!!
I have enough stuff for 2 of these bastages, I may do one free fall, and one with media (a not a bong) and compare them. Or I may glue my head to the pipe from all the fumes I'll be sucking down.
Just to try to clarify, my flow question was, The pipe will only be a few inches away from the comp, and so would the pump, can I move the pump verticaly a few feet to increase it's head preasure without sacrificing suck performance? I'll check out the mag6 though.
::EDIT:: I can't find the mag6 or 7 pump, I only found a mag5 on ebay, would it work? Are the mag pumps AC or DC? Can someone post a link for me?
Here you go:
http://www.customaquatic.com/customa...dexid=wp-wp-s2 just click on the WP-DM02517, that will give you a chart for the flows of all the Mags.
Oh, and I would not try to raise the pump. It will not help the head pressure since it will not get enough water inflow.
Thanks for the link Andrew. I got some of the gluing done, and will post some pix in a minute... It's a bit obtusive... my wife HATES it!! :slapass:
Ok, got the pipe all cleaned up, sanded lightly for painting, and glued up. I am gonna hit the inside seams with some silicone caulking to make sure water doesn't get where I don't want it. I didn't glue the cooling riser to the res, the riser slips into the reducer coupling so it shouldn't leak, and alows me to take it apart to clean it, or mod as needed. Here are 2 picks, one together( it's about 10 inches from the ceiling) and one apart.
Wow. I bow to you my man. NOW THAT IS A BONG PEOPLE! How are you scattering the water?
god lol i have bong envy
LOL Somewhere, in a dorm someone looked at those pics while eating a box of PopTarts and started to cry. :D
Well, I am just doing what I can with what I got. Budget restraints are killing me. Still gotta wait for the pump, tubing, waterblock, etc. In other words, I have to hurry up and sell my .44mag so I can get this maddness running.
I was gonna use a showerhead, in pic, that's 4 inches in dia. and has I think 50 jets. I may try stuffing the riser with some of that blue water cooler pad stuff if this head makes too much noise shooting into the tube or res. This head may just have to strong a patern to cool well, but we will have to wait and see. Has anyone used a rheostat on these pumps to control the flow?
::EDIT::
Still working on how to mount the showerhead, I am looking at building a bracket that sits on top of the riser and holds the showerhead in about 2 inches from the top. I was thinking of using copper tubing and bending a piece about 3 foot long to go up the side of the riser then bend into the showerhead. I figure a 4inch 180 degree bend would have less restriction than 2 90 degre elbows.
That is frellin' huge! :eek2:
Ok, now that I get the humungusness of what you are doing, I would say:
1) Go with a higher pump. Mag9.5 or if the budget allows it maybe even the 12.
2) Unless you want to go subambient (and deal with the insulation issues), you will not need to run the fan on the bong much at all. Between the height of the fall and the size of your res (9gal) your water will say cool for quite awhile before you need the fan.
3) You are the bong god! :worship:
4) Your wife might hate it, but I don't think that I could ever persuade my wife to let me build something like that. You are lucky!
5) You WILL need that padding. The sound of the water falling from that height will be loud. It will sound alot nicer than a fan's whine but it will still be loud.
6) You are the bong god! :worship:
I would love to be there in person, just to see that beast running!
Way to be Xtreme! :clap:
LOL Well, the 9 gallon figure was just for 2 feet of 10 inch pipe, I didn't think about the pipe only going 2 inches into the reducer coupling. With the length of the coupling, I should be able to get 11-12 gallons in it. :woot:
As for my wife, she thought it would be cute when I was talking about a 10 liter fishtank with a pair of 3 foot clear pvc risers, when she got home and saw what I had done, she wasn't to happy. :slapass: I think she said something like, "Wow, green pipe and white fittings will look so good in the den it's not even funny, ARE YOU FREAKING KIDDING ME!?!" She may have said something to my father who gave me the "extra" pipe, but didn't say anything more to me about it. :stick: Though she does roll her eyes and sigh when she walks into the den. (hehehehe).
I was gonna try a small ag sprayer pump, but it only runs whith less than 60 psi in the line, so I don't think it is spec'ed for constant use. And it's not very quiet.
::EDIT:: WEEEEAK!! They copy protected the flow chart page! God forbid someone might want to post that info someplace easy to find.
The mag7 flows 350 gph @ 7 feet head
the mag 9.5 flows 660 gph @ 7 feet
the mag 12 flows 810 gph @ 7 feet
the swifty 655 flows 615 gph max (I assume that means at the pump)
How much flow do I need? I don't realy want a pump that uses more power than my fridge. My wife would realy go off then! All the Mag pumps seem better for my application than the swifty, but how much is enough?
The reason for the larger pump is because it is going to need to push the water from the floor up to and through your computer's water block (two blocks when you add a GPU block) then to where you have the shower head. That works out to more than 7' of head loss.
If I can make a small request: Make sure that your output of the power and water are above the water line of the res. The reasons should be clear but with that much water 'sitting around' you just don't want any leaks. And we don't want any spousecide going on. ;)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=39827
must the pump be submersed?
No.
Oh,yeah. The power and water lines will be coming out through the air pipe. I am using a 4 inch saddle T and 45 degree elbow, with a screw in plug. I will mount the fan on the plug, and take the lines out through a hole in the side of this air passage. The bottom of the air vent will be about 1 foot above the waterline (so water shouldn't slash up into the fan area).
My question is, should I reduce from 3/4 inch lines at the bong, at the back of my comp, or should I replace the fittings on my blocks with 3/4 inch fittings? :slap: MMM redrill and tap...
I was gonna use 3/4 inch pvc pipe to go up from the pump to the outlet in the bong, and haven't desided if I should use 1/2 inch line from it to the comp, or use a reducer nipple as a bulkhead fitting in the back of my comp. OR, should I use 3/4 inch to a manifold in my comp and run 1/2 inch to the CPU and GPU blocks in parralell? (That seems like a bad idea to me)
No it doesn't, but in this case it is recommened. Since you would have to have a hole very low down in the res and that is a place for a possilbe leak. 10+ gal on the floor is not a pretty picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmpy224
hooter'Tbc: I would recommend going with the 3/4" PVC to the outlet then dropping to 1/2" tubing from there to the computer. 1/2" tubing is alot more flexable than 3/4", if you have to move your computer a little bit.
Time i joined in in this fun. been a fan of bong cooling for years.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...olingtower.jpg
some pictures of old bong tower
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMAG0013.jpg
New tower built and running 5 foot tall black pvc with 120mm delta gonna help me hit 3122 stable
will take pictures when cam batteries are charged, its late and i got work at 6.30 am
Wow, bong really looks fun and very good for keeping your processors and gpu's really cool. I have seen people mention it and next I got some pics of huge PVC installations, but I just wasn't understanding what the hell they were doing.
So, this is what I understand from it for now. U get a good pump and pump your water true your rig all the way up to the shower head. With the shower head we get low pressured water wich is easier to evaporate. Faling down in small droplets inside the PVC increases the evaporation proces, removing any heat the water was containing, and the longer it has to fall down, the more heat gets removed. This will get u back to ambient if u do it right. But, due to the small droplets and the the water still falling down, it get's the change to evaporate even more, and so get below ambient temps.
A conclusion I made is that u should never use a closed pvc tube because otherwise u wont get any heat out of the system. Remeber, the pvc tube reacts like your radiator, and that's the only way to get away the heat, just by blowing it out of the tube.
I think with huge bongs it just might be better to just have some low rpm fans just to remove heat from your hardware upstairs and not heat op the below ambient particles as little as possible.
What do u think guys, and maybe some notes on parts I might be misunderstanding. This is so easy to built, maybe I just use this for cooling my TEC when benching. Also, when building a huge bong I just think it's better to have a second waterloop just because of the heatload of the pump, and maybe the flow isn't that good either too when u first have to pass multiple waterblocks and then get 7 feet up.
maybe the flow isn't that good either too when u first have to pass multiple waterblocks and then get 7 feet up.
Answer
twin pumps works for me and as for the added heat load well made bong have huge cooling power mine gives me condensation problems on the cpu gpu and northbridge waterblocks such it its power.
Hoping i get a new digi cam for xmas so i can take a photo of it ;)
Would be nice ACID. I'm thinking of writing a tutorial in dutch language about this, not much people know this kind of cooling in our regions. O yea, this should be sticky too :) I have been looking into this section for threads about bongs but never saw one, until I yesterday used the Magical Search Button.
I had no idee that thing even worked, applause for XS :p
Look what I found on the internet last night:
http://www.ku74.net/uberbong/
:banana:
"Currently evaporative cooler actually lowers room temperature. "
:eek:
i need that, as my family likes to keep the house at 80*F for some reason.. and opening the window when it's 32*F makes me freeze my ass off. not to mention the weather will jump into the 90's out of nowhere cuz it's east texas :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by wittekakker
Has been some renewed interest over at OCAU recently
with regards to bong coolers, as I have always
had an interest in them since 2002 I thought I would hunt
about for some ideas and stumbled upon this thread, There
is a cooler a fellow OCAu member has built I thought
would be a good addition to this thread and be of interest to
those looking to get a bong cooler past the missus
so I joined up to post the pics for you all -->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp..._bong_pics.jpg
Click here for full size pics
I came across the "uber bong" myself this morning and have to say it's
awesome and something I'm keen to replicate with the addition
of this base from the bong on OCAU.
Having made my own water blocks and done several pump conversions
i thought this would be my next little project.
Excellent thread anywayz fellas :-)
Very nice uber bong. It took a long time, but someone actualy built a bong that might make more noise than mine did. I settled on a pump I took out of my neighbors hot tub to move the water, ran 1 inch line to the bong outlet, then 3/4 inch to the back of the comp, and 1/2 from there through the Swifty 6002 block, and back to the showerhead. The noise level was like being in a tin building in a monsoon.
I had loud poping sounds and smoke with-in 3 hours. I found condensation like mad. This thing went sub-ambient in no time. The warranty on my mobo didn't cover water damage, so I got to rebuild. The bong is on my side yard now, and I am back to air cooling. I may get a swifty set-up this winter, and break the bong back out when summer hits. I am thinking of running the water through a radiator in the comp case before the water block, kind of a pre-heater to lower the case temp and raise the water temp just a tad. What do you guys think?
Nice bong there Assuiejester.
Currently I am running a bucket bong which is about 15°c better than my Bip3 with loads of fans.
My next project is going to be a bong in a case though. Probably with a mister bar for the nozzle and made out of thick acrylic for good looks.
I posted this exact same idea on the OCAU forums 2 days ago i thought it would do exactly what your saying ie. lower case temps. My thinking was it wouldn't get into the temps condensation would be an issue but if the water did go from the bong through the rad before hitting the blocks the air flow through the radiator would be nice and cool due to the circulating water directly from the bong. I had planned to utilize the bong as an 'active reservoir' so to speak. The plan was to attach the bong cooler via quick release couplers and pop a standard reservoir in its place and/or simply pop in a piece of tube to connect the inlet and outlet hoses if the situation arose where you wanted to gotto a LAN for example, another benefit of keeping the stock radiator in the case... For me this wouldn't be an issue really as I haven't been to a LAN in yeeears and don't plan to in anytime soon...I plan on getting a start on my own cooler in the very near future I shall pop up pics of the project as I progress....Just need to finish a couple of waterblocks off i'm doing for a customer and then i'll get onto it.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooter`Tbc
A rad will only heat up your water back up
think of it this way you need to be able to cool a heat load of both the cpu and the rad now as the rad will always want to hold ambient temp and once you go below ambient the rad will be working against you.
I tryed this idea with a phase change and a water loop and got the results that you seek but it donest work with a bong cooler sadly it just cannot drop the temp lower than freezing which is needed to do that idea well, Another thing reason i stopped bong water cooling is its very bad for your health lungs. Yes you get great temps but at a high price,
there was an idea years ago to place a rad inside you bong right at the water level and run it of a seprate loop so the water is cooling down the rad which wants to hold the ambient temp in the bong which if the bong design is good should be a much lower than ambient than outside the bong cooler
Acid, I am trying to heat the water back up by a few degrees by placing a radiator in the line in front of the CPU block. That's the whole point. I have no idea how much temp change I will get by "pre-running" a rad like this, but I will have the rad anyway. I have been thinking about this for a few months now as the way to keep the dang thing from going sub ambiant, which I was not ready for. I am planning to try this in the summer, which in my part of California means the outside temp will be well over 100 degrees, and inside will be high 80's low 90's. I plan to use a standard Swifty Apex 220 kit for the winter, and experiment all summer. If it's say 85 in the house, and I can get the ambiant case temp down to 80, then I can keep the CPU around 82 with no problems. Far cooler than I can do with air or standard water in a house thats 85. I may also look at a closed loop inside the bong, but I will need another rad for that. With the pump I have I may try running the lines outside to the bong to try that, but I don't see that being any cooler.
As for my health, I grew up in a house that used a water cooler to beat the heat, and it hasn't hurt me (or my 12 brothers and sisters) yet. I am not adding anything to the water, and I only plan to run it for a few months of trials. I also plan to clean everything out every 30 days.
Most house got a vent in the wall somewhere. Cant u just connect a pvc pipe to it and exhaust the moist air straigth out?
The room we are using for the computer room has 2 doors to the outside, 2 windows, a pet door and another door connecting to the house, as well as the HVAC duct. I never noticed any extra moisture in the air while running the system. That's why I am not worried about it, it's not really an issue. The only place it became an issue was in the computer case where I had condensation.
how high does the bong have to be for it to cool a p4 3.0 properly ?
Thats how it should be if you want to smoke stuff with it:)
Um, Hopper, I must be missing something, cuz that design doesn't make any sence to me. Someone care to explain how this will work to me? What am I missing?
The only thing he is missing is a pump to get some water on top of his bong.
In fact what you are doing Hopper is heating up the cool water. If you for example design a decent bong and get ambient temp or even lower, the radiator in your loop is just useless, and even worse: it's restricting the flow.
A good bong is just as easy as it could be. Hight is important, but I guess the showerhead is as even important.
In my shower at home I can adjust the thickness of the water particles. When the highest filtering is set, the water looks almost like fog. The water at the hight of my head (water fell about 10cm then) feels warm (atleast +45°C), but if I get out of the way and stick my hand out to catch water near the bottom of my shower it feels pretty cold. If I switch the thinkness of the water particle to a bigger size, the water seem not be so cold. Though it could be my mind fooling me.
ppp
I'm sorry Hopper. Maybe I missed something here.but isn't the whole point of a bong. That it can produce sub ambient temps by itself? Wouldn't a rad just warm it up? Also if you have "something cold" in the loop why would it need a rad or a bong? (Maybe I missed it.)Quote:
Originally Posted by hopper
Where is the processor? Just wondering. The bong design is interesting though. But it might not work very well. (Won't)
It is refreshing to see poeple thinkin' about new stuff.:)
Yeah, I was wondering about that "something cold" myself. Bubbling water seems like it would take a lot of air preasure, and I don't know if the fans on the market are designed to build and maintain back preasure like that. I don't know that you can get the fans out to pull bubbles out of water even.
This seems like one hell of a way to warm water, but don't see it cooling water very well. But what do I know, build it and let us know.
guys, i think it might be a joke. guess not many smokers here
Guess again;)
Would be pretty hard to smoke with that bong though, having a fan blow it all into your mouth :D
It could be a very young person too. (Lets try not to discourage anyone)
Yeah it would take compressed air. In this case the fans are useless. And the top bubbler does nothing as far as cooling a cpu. Evaporation is how a bong works.(This 1 wouldn't werk.Unless there is alot of compressed air And then not well)
But new ideas have merit. Keep at it Hopper you'll come up with something!!
What if you "catched" the evaporated water, let it go through a radiator and throw it back into the bong? Couldn't you make a bong with no waterloss that always stays at ambient that way?
then the whole point with the bong is lost, better of using that rad to cool the cpu directly. A bong is an alternative to rad!
LOL OK, so we went from bongs to bubblers to stills? I think it would be easier, cheaper, and more efficient to just use a standard closed loop radiator system than to try to evap, then collect, cool, condense and reuse the water like that. We just went from having a fairly large, obtrusive cooling system (a bong) to having one that uses a ton of space by adding a condenser to it. Not to mentioon looks like you are making moonshine in your room. Hell, Madusa used less space than what you are suggesting.The reason a bong works so well is it's shear simplicity. I realise I am complicating my loop a bit by adding a radiator before my CPU block, but that's not to cool the water any more, that's to heat the water up a bit. It's the same as adding a hard drive or northbridge block to the loop in front of the CPU. Only I don't care if the radiotor gets condensation on it, and condensation will kill the CPU, HDD, or NB chip, and none of those will have any effect on the abiant case temp.
I see no way that a bubble system will cool water. A friend of mine has one of those Rainbow water filter vaccume things (she paid way WAY too much for) and the air that comes out of it isn't cooler than ambiant, it's warmer. That could have alot to do with the heat dump of the air pump, but I don't see how an air bubble traveling through water has the time needed to impart ANY real heat transfer.
If this was a joke, sorry, I obviously didn't get it. :slap: But usualy jokes around here like this only go for a few days, then the joker lets us know... that way we don't have "joke info" out there passing as real info. Hint, hint.
Yulp sub-ambient cooling needs approit precautions..
I just hope we didn't discourage someone.
Yeah, sub ambiant was a great way to get to rebuild my comp... that had performed great before. A standard size bong would have been better, than the monster I built. I plan to try again with a "normal" bong and see where that gets me. I will have to move my printer though... and maybe a spa pump is a bit over kill.
As for discouraging someone, I did say build it and let us know. Plan for success, prepair for failure. It may work, but I don't see how. I would suggest hooking it to a TEC and using it to cool the hot side of that for a few days as a test. That way you get a good idea of what it can do and don't ruin a good comp in the proccess.
ppp
RIght, the whole bong idea cought my attention once again. I read into this stuff a few years ago, but never managed to get a watercooling until a few months ago. Nice to see that there are still people thinking about this kind of cooling.
I think I will try it out sometime next year aswell when I have the time to. The materials you need are really cheap if you already have a watercooling setup, so this should be fun.
The only downside of this whole thing seems to be the increase of room humidity (and the lack of being able to transport the PC it is connected to, which doesnt matter in my case).
Unfortunately NOL's guide is down, so I dont know much about bong cooling, except the stuff I remember from a few years ago.
Am I seeing this right, that the only "opening" to the outside is the fan intake? Or does the top of the bong has to be open aswell?
wow.... i feel dumb
my design was a joke design for a "smoking bong" attached to a w/c rig.....
.... i thought this whole thread was a spoof the first time i read it... then i read through it again and i see how it works ....you guys are xtream
sry bout that
edit lol i just never thought there was more than 1 kind,,,or should i say use for a bong
It's good to keep us updated about any other way we could use a bong.
ROFLQuote:
Originally Posted by hopper
@Hopper
I bet thoose discussing it as a bong for WC feel a bit dumb too! :D
I got together the fittings for the base of my bong cooler
yesterday, got to measuring and cutting this arvo thought I would post up here as well on my local forum in Australia
for all the bong cooling enthusiasts to checkout-->
First pic, the PVC pipe I will be using for the base/res of the cooler, I also have decided on a toilet float to use for the automation of the filling of my bong cooler, it will have a hose from the water mains connected to the base of the cooler :-)
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_1.jpg
Following pics is where i got to today after measuring and cutting-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_2.jpg
I will be purchasing a meter of 100mm O.D clear acrylic plexi
tube for the upper part of the cooler, this obviously hehe will be lit to the nines with LEDS the base is to be prepped and painted with black two pack paint. I want my bong cooler to look the part as well as perform. It will be connected up to my PC via quick release fittings.
I shall post more tomorrow when I have some more done, I'm more than happy to answer any questions people have regarding the construction etc...
Ciao from down under for now
Wow that toilet float idea is astounding
haha yeah...was actually an idea a Aussie fella had on the bong cooling thread on OCAU over here in OZ. I have spoken to a plumber mate and he seems to think it will do the job perfectly, of course this isn't for everyone as aren't bong coolers, but i happen to have a water outlet in my garage about 3 meters from my computer desk so it suits this particular application IMO anywayz...then again im often wrong LoLQuote:
Originally Posted by ziddey
Bit late with todays update, decided to spend the
day watching Overhaulin' & American Chopper instead
of braving the heat in my workshop (over 35 in the iron shed today)
I went out this evening instead to work on a bracket arrangement for the float
system. As usual I have a collection of pics to show
how I decided to go with the mounting-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_3.jpg
Click here for full size pics
Pretty simple mount, two pieces of acrylic plexi, one
half drilled and tapped to accommodate the the threaded
end of the float system, the other half drilled and tapped
to fit a 1/2 inch 90 degree elbow and fitting (hose
from mains water will be attached here eventually)
The two haves have been glued using Acrifix 192 acrylic
plexi cement, they shall be dry come morning and i will
finish up the shaping of the mount, drill and tap some
mounting holes in it and the pvc and secure it. Not a very
exciting bling bling update but an essential part of my
cooling tower automated filling system :-)
Back tomorrow (hopefully a little earlier) with another
update :-)
EDIT: yes i am aware i doubled up on two pics...DOH!
would fix it but have since deleted the originals soz.
Sorry but isn't a bong extremely unhandy? Doesnt the water evaporate out of the system over time because the loop is not airtight? Kinda weird to me really, unless you like refilling your system every day with distilled water...
I just designed this device that passively cooles the water, within a closed system. The heat is transfered via the copper layers (ideally the whole thing is made from copper) to the fins on the outside. Ideally this thing would be placed into the cold ground but it can also be aircooled. Only requirement is that the pump is attached afterwards of this thing, but this thing has no flow resistance because the water flows by itself due to gravity
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1166023831
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&d=1166023831
Pro's:
No power needed
Passively cooled
No flow restriction
Con's:
Pretty difficult and expensive to make
Relatively large
Con's:
Not a bong cooler
:slap:
Also very much like a header tank...(as per used in Sprint Cars and possibly other forms of race car)
Hey Fr3ak the guides down? I guess I'll search the harddrive for it. The opening is thru the fan intake and out the top unless you want to pipe it to outside or a dehumidifier that can take the load.
I got up early this morning and hit the workshop before the heat
got to much. I wanted to finish shaping, drilling, taping and fitting
the float bracket i started on last night....and I did :-) -->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_4.jpg
Click Here for full size pics
I think it will do the job nicely, When finally assembly takes place I
will of course apply some gasket sealent before fitting the bracket
so as we don't get leakage :-) So... ::tick:: automated filling
of cooling tower of the "problems to overcome" list...for the time being hehe
I will move onto making a mounting bracket, splash screens and dust filters
for the fan/air intake of the cooler next...hope to get onto this throughout the day :-)
so what temps would you be expecting with this? or any bong cooler? simialr performance to a 2x120 rad?
uhmmm no... water will go sub ambient temps, they out perform any size radiatorQuote:
Originally Posted by hopper
im reading some guides.... still here to noob-up your post some more though
so the cooling comes from the water falling from the top and the friction from the air causes evaporation?
OK... Lil update ;-)
Went up to Bunnings today and picked up a few more
bits and pieces for the cooling tower, aside from the
plexi tube I have everything now :-) Here's some
of the pieces I picked up this arvo-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_5.jpg
Click here for fullsize pic
The shower head is sweet, I shall experiment with how
many holes I will leave open, the tower i'm using as a
guide used only the 40 or so ( the two outer row of holes)
I moved onto the front grill, now the garage where i have
the pc and the cooler will be 'living' is quite dusty so I thought
I best try to combat this a little with a different sort of
intake arrangement. Here's a few pics of it in the making-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_6.jpg
Click here for fullsize pics
Ok..so the lot will be painted black aside from the top clear
plexi plate, that will have the Bio hazard symbol on it...
the assemble goes together like thus-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_7.jpg
Click here for full size pics
Right, obviously a lil ways from being finished I haven't decided
if i will cut the bio symbol from black plexi and glue it on to the
clear, paint it on or etch it to the clear acrylic perspex top plate...shall
ponder on this overnight :-P
I shall also add a finner filter inside to catch any dust that makes it way
in, hopefully the cover will reduce some dust making its way in...
fingers crossed hehehe...I shall also light the plexi from below with LEDS...
More to come :-)
you got skills... and tools... im jealous... mostly of the tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by hopper
:with:
gonna be waiting for ur final results
haha...hopper, I've been case modding for a few years now and have built
up a small range of tools that make that easier, along with a place to
work, always makes things more enjoyable IMO...
here's a pic I took for another forum
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...The_Garage.jpg
Click here for fullsize pic
Nothing overly flash but does make it easier for me :-)
I went fishing yesterday so haven't got any more to report on the bong cooler,
I will get out later this evening when it cools down and finish
up making mounting brackets for the 80mm fan along with
some 'splash screens'
OH... I did take a couple of pics of the 'wildlife' yesterday some might like :-)
swung the boat by Carnac Island on the way back to the boat ramp for a swim
(is an Island around 15kms off the WA coast) There's a s,all colony of Sea Lions there-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp..._Sea_lions.jpg
Click here for fullsize pic
Back later with some more on my bong cooler for those interested ;-)
I don't understand how you get sub-ambient temperatures when the water is cooled by air that is at the ambient temperature...Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieJester
Hey, you know its not that troublesome and expensive. Coolermaster makes these super cheap aluminum heatsinks for socket 939, and they're used in crappy hp computers. The fan is loud as hell and the processor isn't cooled well, (40C above ambient lol). Just buy one, or more (its 6 bucks a pop), saw/ sand the bottom flat, and use as5 to glue it onto what you have designed. You'll be able to get rid of 60W of heat passively.Quote:
Originally Posted by _Eduard_
If you had read this thread from the start you would know...Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b of l337
I just came in from the workshop got a few more things
completed for the cooling tower.
I decided not to finish the intake I was last working on
but complete the fittings for the shower head and the
remaining external fitting for the mains water line to
hook into to. Here's a few pics of the work done-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_8.jpg
Click here for full size pics
Obviously there will be a hose connecting the internal 1/2
inch fitting to the 1/2 inch fitting on the float mount bracket.
The shower head assembly will be bolted in the same fashion
as the lower bracket is ie. drilled and tapped and bolted
with m3 allen key head bolts to the upright tube.
Not huge progress but a couple of hours work due to the fact
I had to cut the damn plexi by hand as i broke my last
bandsaw blade :-( Shall pick up a new one Tomorrow if
my new 22inch LCD monitor arrives early in the day
if not will have to be Tuesday.
Shall have more tomorrow folks :-)
I decided to reduce the size of the coolers reservoir tonight
mainly so as it takes up less room on the desktop, also as
has been mentioned if there is too much water in the reservoir you
run the risk of the water heating up to room temp/ambient
temps if the pump used doesn't circulate the water quick
enough...so-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ries_pic_9.jpg
Click here for fullsize pics
Was a simple procedure, I picked up another 'T' fitting with
two end caps and simply cut the threaded ends off and glued
them on with PVC glue. They now match the rear, shall sand
it all down tomorrow and start assembly and and hopefully
get it running :-) I shall test it all and when I'm happy I have
everything right I shall paint her up :-)
Back with more soon
get to it
Got a little uhm...interrupted with the progress of the cooling tower
the last few days, had a few mates drop by for Christmas
drinks (as if we need an excuse for a beer LoL) Anywhoo..
I went out this morning and got a few screens made for the upright tube
and the air intake tube to protect the fan from any 'wayward'
water that might splash up -->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_10.jpg
Click here for fullsize pics
I also finished the bracket for the shower head, adding a little extra
piece of plexi for support, have also drilled and tapped it ready to be fitted.
...next i shall finish the fan mounting off, and I have the intake and
outlet bracket (for lines to and from pc) to be made...then I think i am
done, I can then get to assembling it for testing...
Back soon with another update :-)
I really wish I could make a mini bong. I would get a 2.120mm heatercore, a bunch of cheapass plastic plates, and tons of silicone, like a 15 dollar tube they use to put in windows. Hope everything is going all right. OH and btw, since you have so many tools, aussiejester, you might be able to make your own showerhead type thing. Take some kind of piece of thin material, like plexi or something, or just a scrap leftover from something else, then use a tiny drill bit to put tons of holes through it. After like 2 hours, you'll have like a 200 hole thing. You could make a box for it, then have a tube go into it. It takes tons of work but might work very well. Just a thought. I'm not the expert here, so do whatever you like. Its looking good, btw:)
Decided to test a few things out tonight, I assembled the
bottom of the cooling tower and hooked up the mains to
test out the float system, I also modified the shower head,
using the original tower specs as a reference, I closed the
inner holes of the shower head leaving 42 holes.
Turned out to be a blessing as the plexi used will house
"some" LED"s" that will hopefully light the falling water :-P
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_11.jpg
click here for full size pics
I have also pressed the bottom of the shower head in, making it concave,
this was to help the water direction, standard it sprays outward like
so / \ I have also drilled out the holes with a 1/16th drill bit, this combined
with the 're-shaping' of the surface has bought the water fall
to a much more acceptable | | column...
I have my best mates missus birthday to gotto tomorrow so
I doubt there will be an update till Sunday sometime...
I think I will have the tower togther and running then, I also tested
the bottom tonight (the dunny float) and it worked magic, very
impressed.
Back soon people...
You might wanna put a weak 120mm at the top of the whole thing, so dust doesn't get in as easily.
What is a "weak 120mm" ??
The top of the outlet will have a similar arrangement to the intake... minimal dust will be getting in I can assure you.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185024 This is a weak fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieJester
thats a 100mm :D
never heard about that
yate loon sl can be considered "weak" i suppose, although it's not really that bad. 47cfm for 28db at 12v. And you can undervolt to 7v which I suppose would make it weaker and quieter if you so desire
This forum loves yate loons, might as well go with the trend:) I'm getting them today:)Quote:
Originally Posted by ziddey
OH and BTW, if I was building a bong, I would put tons of fan filters:) and put a fan at the top to prevent dust from collecting.Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
And you dont think the fact that the moist air going through an electric fan at the top of a bong would be a problem serialk11r :-S
Unfortunately Polytech Plastic (the company i buy all my acrylic perspex from) are closed till the 15th of January 07 so I wont be able to do anything more until i can get down and pickup the meter of 100mm OD clear perspex tube for the upright of the cooler. I have tested it over the Christmas period with the pvc (not hooked to pc however) and it works brilliantly. The float mechanism is perfect keeps the water at a constant level. I shall take this time to run the poly lines from the mains water to under my pc desk and paint the bottom of the tower. Shall report back when complete.
Thanks for the comments from those that have followed this thread...
Back soon
title... so... misleading...
Cant wait to see some final results frpom you AussieJester.
Unfortunately neither do I have the time nor space to get a bong cooler done, so I will have to delay the build :/
Well you wont have to wait much longer, PolyTech Plastics (the supplierQuote:
Originally Posted by Fr3ak
I buy ALL my Acrylic Plexi from is now open after
long shut down over Christmas so...
I ventured down to visit Ian at Polytech Plastics today
(would link website but it appears to be down :-S ) So here's their contact info-->
Polytech Plastics
Unit 12 6 Hayley Street Maddington
Ph (0 8 ) 9493 0300 if calling within Australia
ph +61 8 9493 0300 when calling outside OZ
Anywayz... I now have the last 'part' for my evap tower-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp..._plexi_pic.jpg
Now...i would love to tellz ya all what Ian the LEGEND
charged me for all this plexi but i would have to kill you :-P
Will just say..was ALOT LOT less than i was quoted for
the 100mm pipe when I called before Christmas :-)
Thanks Ian your a champ ;-) The clear tube is
110mm x5mm x1000mm the big square is as Ian
put it 'an offcut' lol...its 20mm x300mm x400mm for
memory the smaller pieces are scrap 10mm ill use for
waterblock tops and were out of the scrap bin...
Will be out tomorrow (can't do anything today one dayer
Cricket match on Australia V's England is on in 10 minutes :-P )
But I will have a pretty good go at having it finished by end
of the weekend I think :-)
That tube must've cost you a fortune... I would've used black ABS pipe on the bottom, more environmentally friendly, more shock resistant, and color matches better:D
Im only on page 4 of the thread, right where it starts talking about height. This seems like something I could/would try on spring break away from college (assuming I dont go anywhere).
I was thinking... someone said that bong height didnt matter as long as you had droplets forming before the resevoir at the bottom. WHat do you guys think the effect would be if the showerhead was situated so that it sprayed the water onto the walls of the pipe/bong, and the water flowed down the sides of the pipe? Wouldnt that be more surface area, or close?
Is there a definative answer on whether its better or not to submerge or even have a heatercore/rad/dual loop with a bong? I have 2 of what seem to be oil coolers for cars, here and here are pics of one of them. The tubing seems to be 3/8ID, so that would murder flow. The holes are almost perfect to mount a 120mm fan. My friend and I are going to try and do this as cheaply a possible, so if we have to buy a rad, that would defeat the purpose and we would jsut go straight to regular watercooling.
What sort of pump do we need for the shower head, assuming we do seperate lloops? Just something with enough head to get the water up to the shower head with enough flow to make it work?
Anyone have some dimensions that are known to work, or is it just trial and error?
There would be more surface area I think if the droplets were falling through the air, not against the walls. And remember the water will be in contact with some dust particles (more if you don't put fan filters on, personally I'd throw in like double 120mm fans undervolted, and triple fan filters like the really thick ones that kill airflow, and throw in a heatercore or rad or something at the bottom to make it dual stage, because I don't think anyone would want dust collecting inside their loop).Quote:
Originally Posted by Polizei
I swear you only look at pictures.Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Acrylic plexi pipe I priced before christmas (100mm OD only) was AU$125 I got 110mm for ALOT less.. $AU80 that included the 20mm thick piece for the base.
Why would i need ABS pipe? Why does it have to be shock resistant on a bong tower? What harm is this pvc doing to the environment in a bong filter? Its used in EVERY new house built in Australia for the plumbing... The base clear plexi is to be sandwiched between to 3mm pieces of black plexi and the clear 20mm lit with 4 ultrabright LEDS...could i also do that with ABS?
Got to work on the modifications to the evap cooling tower
today. Required making a couple more brackets for the
brass fittings and of course cutting the 20mm plexi.
Here's a few pics of the progress-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_12.jpg
Click here for fullsize pics
So...as it stands now all fittings are complete and holes
drilled in tower for mounting the brackets, tomorrow
I shall cut the black acrylic for the base (will sandwhich the
clear plexi) And run all the wires for the leds and fan.
I want to mill out a channel in the 20mm plexi and lay the
wiring in it prior to cementing the black plexi in place.
The fan wire will run internall als0...hopefully when done
no wiring will be visiable at all...yes I HATE wiring being visible
tiz a pet hate....Back tomorrow with update :-)
Great work so far. I am still following it. Depending on what temps you get I think I will give a bong cooler a go aswell :)
But it wont be that professional hehe
Thumbs up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3ak
Cheers mate :-)
I don't think my temps are going to be anything out of the ordinary though, all the 'fancy' crap aside its still just a bong cooler and they have been proven performers :-) I suggest grabbing 30 bucks and hitting the hardware for some pvc pipe and knocking one up either way buddy, very cheap to build a basic cooler even this one of mine with all the 'extras' was ~120 bucks (not including the clear plexi)
I will have to come up with a plan first.
Looks like I will be placing it somewhere outside or in the garage, paired with a powerful pump if that is possible at all.
I have a very small room and this thing would be used for 24/7 running PCs, so it would be a good idea not to have it in my living room.
Its definatly a good performer money wise, considering you dont need a rad. Ok you need to fill it with water, but I guess you could even use plain water depending on the water quality. Of course you would have to clean the system from time to time, but with low restrictive blocks, that shouldnt be much of a prob.
I your puting it outside Fr3ak hook it to the mains water like i'm doing, via a toilet float it will maintan a constant level automatically thus negating the need for regular 'top ups'
As for using 'tap water' as long as its not brown murky crap IMO its not a prob, I have been watercooling best part of 5 years now and have used nothing but tap water mixed with additive in my loops and have not had any negative effects whatsoever.
Running one of these in a small closed room would soon turn it into a green house environment LoL...
I will most likely just give a few good squirts of Harpic (toilet cleaner) in the cooler every week. Have used Harpic in my watercooling for good 12 months its the best I have seen in keeping system gunk free and tubes clear.
Anywayz...best of luck with it if yoiu go ahead, be sure to post pics if you get it happening so others can get ideas from it :-)
OK...not quite as much done today as planned but
I did get a good start on the base-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_13.jpg
Click here for fullsize pic
All thats left to do is fit 3 blue Ultra bright LEDS to the back
and finish wet sanding the clear plexi .
For the sake of the pic and obviously to get an idea of what
it will look like when finished I sat a single LED at the back
of the base and snapped a pic :-)
Shall finish the base up and begin painting the tower tomorrow,
as usually, black epoxy FTW
Ciao for now