Well, I have frost....

Ya, next ones I get will be flare.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wdrzal

Right........you just loosen the flare nut,no sealer needed.....plus you can lock it down in any direction........plus you don't have to braze close to the gauge. Especially if you have a plastic cased one.

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But, the sealant didn't hold. So I soldered it...
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5874/1002048d.jpg

That held real good. So system is tight, will charge it up later and see what temp it'll make.

RussC

I have Frost....again....
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6589/1002049nw.jpg

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/2770/1002050.jpg
This was my almost max temp...I can probably do better, but I'll do load testing first...
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7171/1002053j.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1513/1002055e.jpg
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1203/1002056.jpg
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2706/1002057r.jpg

The last pic is the best stable temp I can get so far.

To answer about the compression fittings, they work fantastic. I had the evap in and out this morning as seems to always be the case the outlet TVX flare had a really minor leak. All fixed now and went back in real easy. Also, the 5/16to1/4 compression leaked on the 5/16 side. It seems I had to tighten it 1-3/4 turns to make it seal. That copper tube on the compressor is really bad as I think its had too many heat cycles. The rest were good first shot with 1-1-1/4 turns to tighten.

I have the water pump I need on order, as well as the sight glass. Will get those in late in the week.

RussC

Make sure to insulate, or at least insulate the TXV bulb before tuning. Not sure about how you mounted it though, but if it works, it works.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

Make sure to insulate, or at least insulate the TXV bulb before tuning. Not sure about how you mounted it though, but if it works, it works.

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Bulb is mounted with plain old hose clamp. Will be insulating the whole thing when its more complete.

RussC

The system will pick up a substantial load if uninsulated,thus the performance will suffer. Insulate before any superheat adjustment on the TVX.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RussC

Well, after the meldown, decided on a Swifttech 6002. Not sure the pump I have is enough, but I thought it was the best compromise for simplicity, efficiency and cost.

I also insulated the load tester a bit. Its 94ohm, so with the pump and the voltage, total load is 180W.
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/4...ecfrost7bu.jpg
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/7...whead164fi.jpg

A pic of the full sys loaded @ 180W and R134a
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/5...180w3el.th.jpg

I had some Freeze12 lieing around, so I thought Id see if it was any better. Im too cheap to buy a can tap, or the $16 3/16 flare pierce valve. I had a R12 can tap lying around, so I put it to use, nice and getto...
<a href="http://img354.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gettocantap11vr.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/1044/gettocantap11vr.th.jpg" border="0" /></a>
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/1...ocantap1gg.jpg
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/9...cantap29oq.jpg

So, the temps so far have been pretty good for the system Ive built. But....here are the pressures for R134a. I get the best temps with 134, not the Freeze12..I don't think Im supprised there.
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/9...134a5wc.th.jpg

RussC

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Russ i'm not tellin ya what to do, but to others reading the thread i don't recommend using a piercing valve like this... I almost had some serious eye damage a couple years ago from a piercing
valve fastener popping out

Ya, I wouldn't recomend that either, its a complete hack to boot.

RussC