Printable View
Hi,
I wanna do this VDD mod with SMD grabbers.
But I have got a few questions before doing the mod:
-Do I need only a SMD grabber or need I anything else?
-Has anybody done the mod with SMD grabber?
-How to adjust the SMD grabber?
-How are they called in Germany?
@LEARN - Is that dual channel sync????
God I hope so :D
yes it' s in dual channel synchro :D
timing: 2,2,2,7 aggressive 2.9v
Wow, thats awesome. I can't wait for mine to show up :brick: :cussing:
hi,
@kingxxl
smd grabber = "SMD PINZETTE" search at reichelt.de or conrad.de
u also need a SMD POTENTIOMETER or SMD TRIMMER ohms are adjustable per poti
or use a fixed WIDERSTAND
hellll yeah... rockin' on 225FSB **** stable with 1.9V VDD =)
1st loosy 3dmark http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=5514704
damn it the vdd mod stil did not do anything for me:(
so i finished the mod and booted up fine my vdd now reads a steady 1.82 so i decied to go right to 220 FSB thinking it would be ok and for the first boot it was i booted into windows fine and everything ran sandra got 3200MB/sec ran 3dmark without any lockups so im like cool it worked but then i went to run Prime95 it gave FATAL ERRORS about 1 second into the toture test so i thought 220FSB was still a bit to high so i restarted went into BIOS and changed my FSb to 215 now guess what, it would not even POST so i had to reset CMOS and go to a FSB of 210 this time it booted into windows ok but once again Prime95 gave me errors about 1-2 seconds into the test so i am back at where i started i even changed the cooling on my NB to a vantec copper iceberg
now here is something interesting it seems that my max synch FSB with my Corsair PC3500 is 200FSB @ 4-2-2-2 anything above that will either randomly not POST/BOOT or will give errors in prime 95 1-2 seconds into the toture test but i did a little expreiment i went into BIOS and cranked my FSB to 225 and changed the memory ratio from automatic withc is SYNHC to 80% and guess what it boots just fine and runs prime 95 now could this mean my Corsair PC3500 sucks or what could be my problem?
try to do the opposite, set the fsb to, say, 180 and do the memory at 125% (225 in this case) to see if your ram is capable of this speed. im guessing this wont work tho, being that the cpu is capable of doing the higher fsb when the ram wont.Quote:
Originally posted by [H]AMDGamer
damn it the vdd mod stil did not do anything for me:(
so i finished the mod and booted up fine my vdd now reads a steady 1.82 so i decied to go right to 220 FSB thinking it would be ok and for the first boot it was i booted into windows fine and everything ran sandra got 3200MB/sec ran 3dmark without any lockups so im like cool it worked but then i went to run Prime95 it gave FATAL ERRORS about 1 second into the toture test so i thought 220FSB was still a bit to high so i restarted went into BIOS and changed my FSb to 215 now guess what, it would not even POST so i had to reset CMOS and go to a FSB of 210 this time it booted into windows ok but once again Prime95 gave me errors about 1-2 seconds into the test so i am back at where i started i even changed the cooling on my NB to a vantec copper iceberg
now here is something interesting it seems that my max synch FSB with my Corsair PC3500 is 200FSB @ 4-2-2-2 anything above that will either randomly not POST/BOOT or will give errors in prime 95 1-2 seconds into the toture test but i did a little expreiment i went into BIOS and cranked my FSB to 225 and changed the memory ratio from automatic withc is SYNHC to 80% and guess what it boots just fine and runs prime 95 now could this mean my Corsair PC3500 sucks or what could be my problem?
This test will just help u pinpoint the ram as the culprit.
ok i just tried FSB of 179 and ratio of 133% or whatever for 226 on the memory now it booted into windows and everything just fine but once again prime 95 gives errors 1-2 seconds into the toture testQuote:
Originally posted by TheDong
try to do the opposite, set the fsb to, say, 180 and do the memory at 125% (225 in this case) to see if your ram is capable of this speed. im guessing this wont work tho, being that the cpu is capable of doing the higher fsb when the ram wont.
This test will just help u pinpoint the ram as the culprit.
also if it was bad ramnot FSB wise but damaged witch im testing now with memtest86 then why would it work at all?
Did the vdd mod at around 740 ohms on the arda+ and vdd went from 1.58-1.6 to around 1.84 and Now can run at 220 at least whereas before I maxed out at around 212 for stability. This was in combination with cutting the L12 on a 2800+ previously which hleped get over 200 at max timings to begin with. Only problem is it really needs a sodder. there really is very little to grab on to and I feel like if i sneeze, the micro grabbers will fall off. Also I have a 9700. If it was a 4600, it would be right under the card more or less and even harder to keep on.
Any chance this would work on a A7N8X? And if so could someone help me out here? :)
this is the best pic I`ve got so far
http://www.xs4all.nl/~bruuuuut/vdd.JPG
What do you all thing about my noname pc2100 ?
How high do you thing i get with this motherboard ;>?
Im on my Epox 8kha+ rev 2.0 (Kt266a) and max the fsb to 146 ://
Do you think i get any higher with this new board ?
R
Okay, I know im new here but just a little round-up would be greatly appreciated, I got the test clips (grabbers), I don't have a steady hand, I got the Pot, but personally I'd really rather not do it this way, if someone could tell me what strength resistor I would need to get ~1.79 volts it would be greatly appreciated. :)
To those who have soldered the leads on, were you able to do it with a standard size soldering iron, or did you need a specialty iron? I consider myself quite good with soldering, however, I did notice the area is kind of small.. it looks like it can be done, but I'd like to make sure first. :)
Someone that want 2 answer my question plz ?
I dont know if i should get it or not but;) it looks like a nice board man ;)
R:eek: :eek: :eek: :cool:
Jeff gets that with 750 ohm.Quote:
Originally posted by Fonix
Okay, I know im new here but just a little round-up would be greatly appreciated, I got the test clips (grabbers), I don't have a steady hand, I got the Pot, but personally I'd really rather not do it this way, if someone could tell me what strength resistor I would need to get ~1.79 volts it would be greatly appreciated. :)
rainerausrs, TheDong, Pjoeloe, Fonix, & Oblic
Welcome to Xtreme :) (hope i didn't miss any1)
Oblic,
There is no way any1 here can accurately tell you how high your PC2100 will clock in the 8RDA. I'd recommend some good PC2700 to PC3500 in the board tho to fully take avantage of the bandwidth ;)
Ya I understand that aswell but ;> the system Iam on right now have the pc2100 and I dont have aford a new memory ://
I just want 2 know what you all think ? Do you think im going over 146 ;> ?
and btw im getting the board anyway ;)
more results later guys
I have some PC2100 that won't even run Cas2 @ 133FSB & I also have some that'll run Cas2.5 @ 166FSB...so you can see, its very hard to say ;)
ya thats true ;>
Thanks allot for the answer and the warm welcome ;)
Keep up the good work guys.
http://caprid.homestead.com/files/235ssmem3643-3451.jpg
In sync, Corsair XMS 2.9v Vdd 1.82 5222 timings.
:cool:
can somebody pls tell me if i can do this mod with the two vmod things i have? i have two "vmod kits" i ordered from someone at overclockers.com
What they consist of is a grabber, going to a pot, going to a ground connection.
If i hook up the grabbers to pins 1 and 4, then what pots do i turn and how much? (counterclockwise is less resistence)
Emericana,
Not sure what you're asking but if I understand you correctly it should work fine dependin on the potentiometer size. Set it to max resistance & connect it to Pin 1 & grnd the other side. Then turn down the resistance slowly & watch VDD go up :)
If the pot is 1k or more then you should be fine :D
nice that is real easy! i will do that tonight (running prime on my system now and downt wanna have to turn off pc and do prime all over again)
Did the VDD mod today, thanks for the info guys :toast:
I used a 680 ohm resistor that gave me around 1,8-1,82 Vdd.
Before the mod I could not run above 185fsb stable, now I can go up to 200. Anything above 200 is unstable, at 205 the system wont even post. Anyone know why I cant go any higher?
Im using two TwinMos 3200 sticks.
Thanks
Espen
Damn .. i cannot put the grabbers, the is no space between the leg of the chip and the board. Need to do some soldiering :(
i did the mod here with some high res pics if anyone wants to check it out
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....5&pagenumber=1
Are you running a 2400+ or higher cpu? If so try taking the 133/166 jumper off. I also had to cut L12 bridge to get it stable and make the chip think it is a 133 part. Then I could run it all the way to 220fsb.Quote:
Originally posted by Espen
Did the VDD mod today, thanks for the info guys :toast:
I used a 680 ohm resistor that gave me around 1,8-1,82 Vdd.
Before the mod I could not run above 185fsb stable, now I can go up to 200. Anything above 200 is unstable, at 205 the system wont even post. Anyone know why I cant go any higher?
Im using two TwinMos 3200 sticks.
Thanks
Espen
Thanks for the welcome N8
i did the vdd mod successfully, im running at 1.84 right now, but i still cant get above 202. it seems that no matter what, the cpu will not post above 202fsb. if i set the cpu to 180 and set the ram (async) to 125%, the ram will run easily at 225. if i try the opposite, and run the cpu above 202 and the ram at 80%, it still wont post, pointing me towards the cpu as being the culprit. ive taken off the jumper and didnt help. so im thinking about cutting the L12 bridge. anyone think this could help?Quote:
Originally posted by xgman
Are you running a 2400+ or higher cpu? If so try taking the 133/166 jumper off. I also had to cut L12 bridge to get it stable and make the chip think it is a 133 part. Then I could run it all the way to 220fsb.
edit: typos
I replied to one of your other threads, but first saying that there is no guaranty, the L12 cut helped me on my 2800+ get to 220. I also did the vdd mod which helped with stability, but just taking the jumore off didn't really hlep my cpu whereas even before the vdd mod, I noticed a decent fsb bump after cutting the L12.Quote:
Originally posted by TheDong
Thanks for the welcome N8
i did the vdd mod successfully, im running at 1.84 right now, but i still cant get above 202. it seems that no matter what, the cpu will not post above 202fsb. if i set the cpu to 180 and set the ram (async) to 125%, the ram will run easily at 225. if i try the opposite, and run the cpu above 202 and the ram at 80%, it still wont post, pointing me towards the cpu as being the culprit. ive taken off the jumper and didnt help. so im thinking about cutting the L12 bridge. anyone think this could help?
edit: typos
but what mult are you using? im hoping to get an 11 or 11.5or even 12 mult out of 210+ fsb. at 11 *210 thats only 2310 which is only a 152 mhz overclock for my 2700+Quote:
Originally posted by xgman
I replied to one of your other threads, but first saying that there is no guaranty, the L12 cut helped me on my 2800+ get to 220. I also did the vdd mod which helped with stability, but just taking the jumore off didn't really hlep my cpu whereas even before the vdd mod, I noticed a decent fsb bump after cutting the L12.
WOW !!!
HOLD THE PHONE.
I could not get past 197Mhz - even at 6.5 multiplier
Now we are in business.
Stuck it on 220 fsb and it is fine.
I´d never though it could be pushed this far at all.
AMD only :-)
1700+ Palomino @1700 hz @1.95V
Eopx 8rda+
Corsair XMS 3000 CL2 @ 2.5-3-3-7 @2.77volts
Ati radeon 8500 250/265core @1.7V
Volcano 7+
I used a pot 1 Ohm 0.75w
Used a multimeter to test the pot beforehand and dail it in to 800Ohms resistance and stuck it on.
This pushed the VDD mod from 1.55 to 1.75volts
I thank everyone.
This has been the hardest and most rewarding overclocking since my old dual cel366 to 550 mhz on a Abit BP6.
Long life the EPOX 8rda+
Thanks Guys
!!! Happy New Year !!!
Bios C31 is out! Get it here http://www.epox.com.tw/file/8RDA2C31.BIN
since 01-01-03 ... ;)Quote:
Originally posted by Pjoeloe
Bios C31 is out ...
Which resistor should I use for a maximum Vdd 1.9V?
Quote:
Originally posted by xgman
Are you running a 2400+ or higher cpu? If so try taking the 133/166 jumper off. I also had to cut L12 bridge to get it stable and make the chip think it is a 133 part. Then I could run it all the way to 220fsb.
Im running an 2400+ and removing the 133/166 jumper didnt work. I have just tried running the fsb at 225 and memory at 80% and it worked fine. Ive also tried running the fsb at 180 and memory at 225 and it worked fine aslo...
It seems my board doesnt like running in sync mode...
Edit: Max stable fsb in sync mode is 203fsb @ 204 the system wont even boot...
550/600 ohms. You need a good cooling on the northbridge for this ;)Quote:
Originally posted by Stanley Jobson
since 01-01-03 ... ;)
Which resistor should I use for a maximum Vdd 1.9V?
One guy from the Epox Techteam @aoaforums says this "Given that this is an 8x AGP MCH, voltage isn't derived from the same channeling method as that of say a KT333 mainboard for the MCH. It is created on a pass through the IR chip that you are all retracing with the 1K ceramic or pot.
The MCH voltage is linked to the AGP voltage across certain paths only. These paths are critical for the graphics card to stay alive, or in modifed instances "dead".
We would recommend against this modification as I have stated - it will cause multiple component failure. The only way to acheive this modification would be much more complex than the modification that has been carried out. It would mean uprating a great deal of circuitry" whoops.....
So it makes you wonder what voltage increase is actually helping... the chipset or some lines for the AGP?
Like I said... my problem before the Vdd mod was my video would crap out and the video driver would corrupt. Which is really inline with what that ET is saying.
hmmmm... :confused:
I am using BIOS C31.
Before Vdd mod, >210FSB = screen flash
after Vdd mod (1K Ohm resistor, 1.78V DMM reading), >225FSB = screen flash
But I am OK with this 225FSB :)
2.5-3-3-7 2x256MB OCZ PC3500 CAS2.5 Dual channel sync
Yo KS1, nice country you live in :toast: what is your maximum memory speed @2-2-2?
236 in DUAL DDR
vdd@2.01v
vmem@2.9v
2*Winbond 5ns
http://membres.lycos.fr/cpulloverclock79/236dual.jpg
Yeah well, screens are not a good proof.....
http://www.xs4all.nl/~bruuuuut/hehe.jpg took me 2 minuts with paints lol
Cpulloverclock, how do you cool your northbridge?
sorry but I never cheatQuote:
Originally posted by Pjoeloe
Yeah well, screens are not a good proof.....
http://www.xs4all.nl/~bruuuuut/hehe.jpg took me 2 minuts with paints lol
Cpulloverclock, how do you cool your northbridge?
my score is not a fake
okay? :)
for my northbridge there is a 60mm fan
:) I don`t say you cheat m8, I say benchies on jpg are not a proof. 3dmark is...... with an url that is hehe (and I gues you know how paint works because you copied my reply in a jpg, and the colours of the pic are exactly the same of MS paint)
Are you referring to him quoting your reply? :)Quote:
Originally posted by Pjoeloe
and I gues you know how paint works because you copied my reply in a jpg, and the colours of the pic are exactly the same of MS paint
I don`t realy get it what you mean.... N8
11 & 11.5 works great now.Quote:
Originally posted by TheDong
but what mult are you using? im hoping to get an 11 or 11.5or even 12 mult out of 210+ fsb. at 11 *210 thats only 2310 which is only a 152 mhz overclock for my 2700+
Answer me goddammit!:slash: :D
Will this work for the a7n8x? Im too lazy to look :)
If you are going to be that lazy, then I am going to tell you no.
In fact, I cant recall anyone trying this on an Asus or Abit or any of the other nf2 boards to date..
m8s i need a conclusion :)
what ohm resistor i must use (ohms ??)
Use a 680
Mine originally was at 1.56vdd after i put on a 680 it sits at 1.82-1.84
May also try a 700-750
This mod helped alot.
before i couldnt even post into windows without it rebooting at 205.
now im at 220 6,2,2,2
Is this mod going to cut down my nforce's life a few more months/years or is it going to give my nforce a life of only a few months? there is a big diff. between 2 of them.
well if the answer is the first one then I don't reallly give a damn cause I do not use my computer for more than 3/4 years. if the answer is the second one then I have re-consider about modding it. :)
well seeing how this mod has been done only a few weeks ago how are we to know long term effects?
however, just remember that abit allows you to change the voltage to 1.7v in bios so that means it should be safe to run that high assumin you got ample cooling
Anytime you take on tampering with the m/b through mods you take on the chance of making a mistake and frying the board and possibly some other components. If you aren't a risk taker than leave it alone. I don't mean life and death type risks but the ones that might cost you some more money to replace HW because of a simple mistake in calculation.Quote:
Originally posted by CyNix
Is this mod going to cut down my nforce's life a few more months/years or is it going to give my nforce a life of only a few months? there is a big diff. between 2 of them.
well if the answer is the first one then I don't reallly give a damn cause I do not use my computer for more than 3/4 years. if the answer is the second one then I have re-consider about modding it. :)
I had a 3 way mod on my KR7A-R and it was working great until one day I attempted to adjust one of the pots and I turn it the wrong way, plus to fast!:) It cost me a board and VC. I didn't RMA it; could have. I just moved on to the next higher plain....:D
Thats why you dont use adjustable pots. :)Quote:
Originally posted by Ace-a-Rue
I had a 3 way mod on my KR7A-R and it was working great until one day I attempted to adjust one of the pots and I turn it the wrong way, plus to fast!:) It cost me a board and VC. I didn't RMA it; could have. I just moved on to the next higher plain....:D
No, I was trying to adjust something that I should of left alone since it was right after I got up in the morning and without any COFFEE in my tummie!;)
Heres some VDD mod eyecandy for you people.
System specs.
2400+ AIUHB week 47 @ 1.95vcore for burn in
Twinmos PC3200 6,2,2,2 @ 2.9vdimm
WD 1200JB Harddrive
GigaByte 9700 Pro
Thermalright SLK-800
This is the limits of my system on AIR. Watercooling will be here next week.
Video card is not overclocked.
This is not prime95 stable unfortunantly
3dmark
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=5592442
pcmark (reading my cpu speed wrong)
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?pcm=1002529
http://home.kc.rr.com/sminker/images/sandra225.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/sminker/images/superpi.JPG
Correct me if I am wrong:
Since we up Vdd, I think that replacing the tiny little inductor with a bigger one might help improving the quality of the current.
The inductor smoothes out current ripple/current rush. The bigger the coil, the better the quality of the current (but higher cost for a manufacturer)
I also suspect that this might be a reason richbastad killed his MOSFET by dialling the pot too fast since by raising Vdd, NB also consumes more amps. Without adequate protection against current ripple/current rush, one might kill MOSFETs.
According to the datasheet, IRU7313 has Vdds = 30V, continuous current drain = 6.5Amp, and Rds(on)=0.029ohm.
Lo fellas..!!
2 quickies.....does the wattage of the vpot need to be 0.75w or is it OK to use 0.25w..????
And also have anyone of you noticed if the IC itself it´s getting any hoter by doing this modd. Mabye it would be a good thing to put a heatsink on it...???
OK, i need some help. When i comes to volts resistance and all that stuff i am an ABSOLUTE n00b. i have had 0 exposure to it in my life...0.
So from what i understand, you can get those little grabbers (will radioshack have them?) and then attach one to leg 1 and one to leg 4 on that chip (yeah i know which one). Then the far side of the grabber has a spot to attach a lead on it. You then attach a resistor between the two backends of the grabbers? does direction matter?
My final question is which resistor should i use? The chipset will be watercooled, so heats not really a problem. If its easy enough to disconnect and recconect resitors i wouldnt mind having a couple. do you have to solder them to the grabbers? or just wrap the lead around the contact?
thanks
1st of all, RS does not have the right kind of grabber. They sell 'J' hook types.Quote:
Originally posted by SupaMan
OK, i need some help. When i comes to volts resistance and all that stuff i am an ABSOLUTE n00b. i have had 0 exposure to it in my life...0.
So from what i understand, you can get those little grabbers (will radioshack have them?) and then attach one to leg 1 and one to leg 4 on that chip (yeah i know which one). Then the far side of the grabber has a spot to attach a lead on it. You then attach a resistor between the two backends of the grabbers? does direction matter?
My final question is which resistor should i use? The chipset will be watercooled, so heats not really a problem. If its easy enough to disconnect and recconect resitors i wouldnt mind having a couple. do you have to solder them to the grabbers? or just wrap the lead around the contact?
thanks
2nd, it cannot work the way you want it for the SMD grabber to grab leg 1 & 4, because the end of the grabber is a single piece of copper. All you would be doing would be shorting pin 1 to pin 4.
You want to use the grabber to clip onto leg/pin 1 and then you would have a wire soldered to the grabber end. The other end of the wire would be soldered to a fixed resistor or to a variable resistance pot.
Here are similar, I STRESS SIMILAR, representations of what the project would look like:
VIEW OF SMD AND RS MINIATURE POTS
http://home.nc.rr.com/boeing/smd/parts%20needed.jpg
SMD GRABBER ATTACHED TO LEG/PIN w/SINGLE WIRE LEADING FROM IT.
http://home.nc.rr.com/boeing/smd/smd.jpg
AGAIN, I stress this is what it would look like when attached. Obviously, you would be attaching to leg/pin 1 and any case or m/b ground if using a 1K pot or fixed value resistor. It is not paramount to hook it to pin/leg 4 which is ground. ANY GROUND ON THE CASE OR M/B WILL WORK......
Yep that type will work, but I like these better....:D
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=271%2D342
These are all good Muzz! keep the suggestions and ideas coming forward. This is what this forum is all about.....:)
I agree brother Ace.........:toast:
I like how the store locator is included in the description..... self serve anyone??..... heheh
Cheers!:toast:
:thumbsup:
thanks ace :p
couple more Qs for u. in the pic it looks like your grabber is not connected to pin 1, but pin 2, am i seeing things?
I'm guessing that u can use a 1k ohm pot to have variable resitance, how do u adjust it? and when i am adjusting it, how do i tell the current resistance? i've got a multimeter, but it has a billion different settings :confused:
does radioshack sell 1kpots? u only have 10ks and 47ks in the pic
Quote:
Originally posted by SupaMan
thanks ace :p
couple more Qs for u. in the pic it looks like your grabber is not connected to pin 1, but pin 2, am i seeing things?
Remember what I said, similar, so to be interpreted as NOT EXACT. Again, you are correct. For your scenario, you will use pin 1.
Pots and trimmer switches have three legs on it. You should use the middle leg as your positive connection to the SMD grabber and then one of the outer legs for ground connection. Depending on which direction you want to turn the adjusting screw to increase voltage will then stipulate which outter leg to use for ground.Quote:
I'm guessing that u can use a 1k ohm pot to have variable resitance, how do u adjust it? and when i am adjusting it, how do i tell the current resistance? i've got a multimeter, but it has a billion different settings :confused:
If you want to turn clockwise to increase voltage then you need to find which outer lug will give you lower resistance while turning in the clockwise direction. Do you understand?
And, if you can't read or use the meter then you need some basic instruction in that area before proceeding. I would take your meter to Radio Shack and ask the person to help you with that while you buy the pot or Trimmer switch.
Yes they do. Muzz gave you the link showing a 1K Trimmer switch which will do the same thing as my miniature pot. Just go in the store and tell them what you want.Quote:
does radioshack sell 1kpots? u only have 10ks and 47ks in the pic
k, thanks boss :p
He ain't the boss... he's just a pee-on like the rest of us.Quote:
Originally posted by SupaMan
k, thanks boss :p
He just wears a raincoat........:wave:
:lol:
heh..seriously though, ur all a whole bunch of help on this. 2days ago i was like "VDD who?" and now i have my parts ordered and am ready to go :p
Just be careful, don't rush, check your work ( TWICE ) and you should be fine if you use your head, and don't adjust it too fast. too fast is a very bad thing, hence MY liking the 15turn trimmers better.
Bossman knows I'm just fuggin' with him....:)
Good Luck
muzz
Hey, hey Muzz....Are you sure???!!! :p:D
:thumbsup: :fart:
:slap: :slap:
heheh
I've done the VDD mod on my board now too. Adds to my MOSFET heatsink mod, SB heatsink mod, Shin Etsu paste between NB and NB HSF(Stock heatsink and 80mm 3000rpm fan).
1 1kohm fixed resistor and I now get 1.77~ VDD. PERFECT!
Just gonna leave things for a few days though and let it all burn in.
Then I'll see how high I can take my TwinMOS PC3200 and XP 1700+.
I'm aiming for atleast 200MHZ FSB SYNCH with RAM and about 2.2GHz on my 1700+.
Thanks for the mod details everyone!
If that twinmoss has winbond BH-5 chips, 1.77Vdd should bring you up to 220~225mhz sync. :)Quote:
Originally posted by Walrusbonzo
I've done the VDD mod on my board now too. Adds to my MOSFET heatsink mod, SB heatsink mod, Shin Etsu paste between NB and NB HSF(Stock heatsink and 80mm 3000rpm fan).
1 1kohm fixed resistor and I now get 1.77~ VDD. PERFECT!
Just gonna leave things for a few days though and let it all burn in.
Then I'll see how high I can take my TwinMOS PC3200 and XP 1700+.
I'm aiming for atleast 200MHZ FSB SYNCH with RAM and about 2.2GHz on my 1700+.
Thanks for the mod details everyone!
No it has "TwinMOS" chips on the PCB, they are one sided PCBs.
One things for sure, this RAM will just NOT do Ras to Cas(RCD) of 2 when the FSB is 166MHz or higher, regardless of VRAM.
I can set TRAS to various values ok, CAS at 2 is fine, and RAS Precharge(RP) is fine at 2 also.......
Anyway....
Using CAS-2, RP-2, RCD-3 and TRAS-7 I was able to run memtest86 fine at 220MHz FSB synch with RAM.
Hopefully it'll be stable in Windows when I try on Wednesday.
Well, short question :)
Which resistor do you guys recommend for me? I'm cooling the NB with a zalman passive nb cooler + 90mm fan blowing over it..
I'm currently stuck at 175 fsb! Any higer and 3dmark gives an error like this:
Timer sanity check failed (ben: 24.900000, sys: 24.900000).
Wtf... I've never seen this error :(
Hopefully the mod will give me some more headroom
750ohm is fairly safe.
175 seems a bit low to be needing more VDD, you might have a memory or setup problem.
I know.. the thing can boot and run prime for hours on 190 fsb.. but I keep getting the 3dmark errors.. Oh well... going to reinstall and hopefully it wil be fixed
Btw.. did you guys experience any weird screen flashes at higher fsb's? The screen turns black and 1 sec later it's returns :S
yea mine flashes black right before i get to the desktop in win2000.but i am running 225fsb dual bank @3.05vdimm
2 hyperx 256mg pc3500 matched sticks
That's prob. because you overclocked your vga card with some proggie.. mine does it all the time!
i am still on old video card no overclocking yet on mine.i am getting the board up first.find the best setting for memory and cpu and .then i will put in my r9700 running @470/750.
screen flashing doesnt bother me seams ok.i will try to run prime for a few hours to see how it does.
Ok, I'm gonna vmod the thing this tonight.. gonna try a 750 ohm resistor like Holst said.. hope it works :)
Woej, succes! I used the 755ohm resistor and now I have 1.8v vdd :)
I can run @ 200fsbx10 now :banana:
Thanks for the great info in this thread!
I was stuck at 191fsb,
but after the mod I am now at 207fsb stable!
I bumped the Vdd up to 1.85.
Now all is good even at aggressive ram settings and in Dual Channel mode.
THANKS AGAIN.
Lets see your bandwidth and 3d2001 now. I am real curious because I am contemplating an Asus N2 board over this. You might convert me since this board is easier to do the chipset mod than the Asus.Quote:
Originally posted by gb5766
Thanks for the great info in this thread!
I was stuck at 191fsb,
but after the mod I am now at 207fsb stable!
I bumped the Vdd up to 1.85.
Now all is good even at aggressive ram settings and in Dual Channel mode.
THANKS AGAIN.
here is a quick 3dmark: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=5731371
I had about 14900 before the mod.
I ran at 11.5 X 191 before.
Now 10.5 X 208.
http://www.3-kids.com/2083d.JPG
Nice score on the 3D2001! Memory bandwidth is comparable to the Asus. Thanks for the quick reply....:)
yea these boards fly.what do you think?fast enough no extra cooling
I see 225 FSB in CPUID but is that the same FSB for Sandra?
What FSB and how long did you run Prime 95?
yes that is one of my test runs.cpu isnt running hard.i was just testing my memory and my mods to the board
fsb was running 225 dual bank memory.timming was set to 7 2 2 2
How long have you run Prime 95 at 225 FSB?
ran prime for 3 hours or so.
but wont complete 3d2001 at that speed.yettt.will complete 3d at 220fsb but i am working on moving it at this very moment into my phase change test unit.where i will be able to cool the chipset better than air. need.more volts to the chipset and i cool it properly with high volts there.needs 1.9 or better i think .
I dont thing pushing past 1.9 is healthy.. seems a few people have lost boards to 2.0v.. kinda like the instant northwood death thing.. 8-/
as far as i know, only 1 person (richbastard) killed his board by turning the pot too fast.
other people reported running 2.0V without any problem (so long as you keep it cool). One more to consider, when you run at 2.0V, you should consider adding more capacitors and replacing a tiny coil with a bigger iductor coil.
This mod definately worked for me but I seem to have one problem...my video artifacts past 205. I have tried a VDD or 1.77 and 1.85 but that didnt solve the problem. Doing the VDD mod did however take away the screen flashes past 200fsb. I tried changing the AGP voltage and everything else I could think of. It doesnt do it at all if i dont run dual DDR mode. Any ideas?