another way to cut an L bridge
Hi guys,
reading this thread I saw that the suggested method of cutting the L12 bridge is by using a sharp knife/scalpel etc.
Seeing that many are reluctant to try it in case they cut deeper, I want to propose using the method that gimmpy has already mentioned.
I have used it myself successfully on a 1000MHz Duron (Morgan core, same as the Athlon XPs) and it is quite simple:
All you have to do is get a working PSU and use the +5V line along with the ground one from a molex.
Just touch the two dots of the L bridge with the two pins and the current will blow the bridge.
I had to keep the two pins on the dots for 1-2 secs and then there was a blue flash over the bridge along with a “tsaf” sound.
When I booted the cpu, the original multi was changed alright (that’s why I did that on the Duron)
I used an old PSU from a 286, that could be started up by an on/off button, even when not connected to a mobo, and just cut the 2 wires from a molex,
But you could do it by shorting the ATX plug with a paper pin and attaching multimeter needles on a molex.
Read this thread for more info and pics.
So, with the bridges being the same on all XP-like cores, you should be able to cut the L12 bridge the same way.
And with no visible trace of the cutting.
My experiences with the Nf7
I just recieved my new Abit board yesterday, after reading this thread, and seeing that breaking the 200 mhz barrier now seems very possible on this board. I have a 2400, and after closing the last l3 bridge, it booted at the new default 7x multiplier. After playing with it for several hours, I noticed that if I kept the board at the 7 multiplier, I could go all the way to 230 (460mhz mem) and get into winxp, and actually run benchmarks etc. when I changed the multiplier to any other setting, I couldn't even boot into windows at anything near 200mhz. After some thought I attached the next to last l3 bridge to make it a 11 multiplier, and now I can run 11x217 like a rock. The CPU is now limiting me from going higher, as the 10.5 multi would have been more ideal (but I didnt want to cut any bridges). For whatever reason, if I change the multiplier in the bios, I cant run high fsb. I dont know if this has to do with the same bug OPPAINTER encountered, but there is diffenetly something wierd going on with the MB.
Anyway, the only mod I have done is slap a little artic silver under the northbridge.
Also, if anyone has a link to Vmod this board, please post it.
Hope this info helps
My system:
Lian-Li case
Abit NFS MB
2400+ at 11x217
Corsair xms 3500 256 megs
Abit Ti4200
Slk-800 heatsink
WD 80 gig
Maxtor 40 gig
etc.. etc...
Re: I have the same question
Quote:
Originally posted by jgeoff
The 333FSB is typically a few dollars cheaper than the 266FSB on Pricewatch.com --
What would be better: the 2600+/333 with the L12 mod or the 2600+/266? Or are they basically the same thing after the mod?
Thanks!
/jg
2600+/266 is rated 2113 MHz, while 2600+/333 is rated 2067 MHz, so the 266 MHz FSB version is rated slightly higher.
However, I think AMD is not shipping anymore of the 266 version, except for the coming MP 2600+.