bldegle2 did you overclock increase at all? Yes be carefull with those IC's I cut a couple of mine, my friends tell me I'm impatient.
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bldegle2 did you overclock increase at all? Yes be carefull with those IC's I cut a couple of mine, my friends tell me I'm impatient.
"bldegle2 did you overclock increase at all? Yes be carefull with those IC's I cut a couple of mine, my friends tell me I'm impatient."
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
that.
i am off to do an errand right now, will play when i get back. it would be nice to get an even 2600mhz out of this 2800+, only 4/5 more clicks on the clock and i am there.
i am thinking this chip would prolly do 2.9 gig on the prommie, but then i would have to get into heavy mem dividers, max multi is 9, so that would be a 322. i have had her running 7.5x320 FSB on air, but it was not so stable, maybe the extra chillin' from the prommie would make it possible.
baldy :D
i am running 9x285, 286 balked. so far so good, but i am going to run some tests for stability.
i am not convinced this xp-120 as good as a 948U unit, but i have to say the 100cfm delta 120mm is very quiet, comparatively speaking to either a 92mm or 80mm of the HO variety.
upped the vre to 1.7 for the 285. i don't trust the cpu temp of 58*c reported by ITGuardian, this is with the 1.7, @1.6 it reads around 55*c.
it just keeps running and running.......................
i have plenty of case fans and a very clean box.
update, no go @285, back to 284. so it didn't help with the ultimate final overclock, but the cooler temps are always nice......... :D
back in awhile.
baldy :D
BTW has anyone tried or know of someone that uses a TEC to directly cool the core no coldplate or IHS?
So I might as well just leave the IHS on or would I see that much improvement switching to copper cold plate?
I'm thinking to remove IHS but ...... :(
I use EXOS watercooling with 300G waterblock.
If IHS removed will waterblock make good contact with core ???
Any of you with EXOS @ IHS removed ???
saw many post and my own experience that you need to spend some quality time (and 220 Grit sandpaper for starters :rolleyes: ) to get flat base, usually comcave. (Maybe taking flatness lessons from nvidia?)
Follow w/ 400, 600, 1000 for better contact.
you mean if you kill it with static and you have the retail,they give you a new cpu?Quote:
Originally Posted by afireinside
my new 3000+ seems to be really gay. it wont run 2.4ghz stable with 1.65v
my last one ran 2.5ghz 1.625v
is it the IHS making poor contact or does it need to be burnt in?
i will get another 3000+ when i rma the 2.5ghz one (which my kv8 pro fried)
so should i take it off or sell it if the new one is good?
in memtest i get 2 errors after 25 passes at 270x9, and windows lockups so im pretty sure its the cpu casue it is fine at 2385mhz (265x9)
any thoughts?
okay it crashed at 265x9 now im sitting on 270x8 1.55v
I think it's something else. I traded away my Athlon64 3400 and it's now beating me at my own game. I'm running a P4 530 at 260FSB 3.9GHz, running Hyper-X5400, on an Abit AA8, with a ATI X800 XT (watercooled CPU) and my friend JNav whom I traded away my Chaintech ZNF3, A64 3400 beat me last night with that system and a X800 Pro! I scored 24k and he scored 27k in 3DMark2001.
Bottom line, the on-die MCH is somewhat finicky, and the right memory is needed to get the right OC's. There can be so many different factors, but I'd be inclined to say it's your memory, memory timmings, or voltages. Cooling is a big issue, what are your temps, and your cooling method?
zalman 7000 alcu, temps are by probe on side of ihs: 37.5 folding and 30 idle. have seen up to 40 load in the afternoon
the hw monitor thingy says:53-58 load. but i dont trust that as it displays my voltages and psu rails lower than they are.
psu rails are 3.44, 5.17 and 12.24 measured by DMM.
I'd gaurantee in this case your temps are much closer to the internal thermal diode, then a diode placed on the sureface. For several reasons.
1st. Any thermistor even when placed optimally, has approximately 80% of it's sruface area exposed to air. Therefore your temp from that thermistor is taking the average from 10% of it's surface area contacting the CPU's IHS, 10% of it's surface area contacting the Zalman heatsink base, and the remainder of it's surface area exposed to air circulating around it. Another example of the inaccuracy of temp measurement comes from the graph below;
http://www.arcticsilver.com/images/m...resistance.jpg
source Arctic Silver
AMD and Intel have made strides to improve the accuracy of their internal thermal diode. While it's true the BIOS formula may be inaccurate, I would always be inclined to trust the higher, rather then lower temp of the BIOS reading over a thermistor. In this way your much safer.
From my personal A64 3400 experience these chips run warmer then the Socket-478 Prescott's at Idle. I found this to be true again and again. Another factor to conisder is the surface area of the IHS itself. Similair to Intel, your A64 IHS occupies 70% more surface area then the actual core beneath it. It's primary job is to "spread heat" hence the name Integrated Heat Spreader (2nd is to protect the core). So if your placing a thermistor on a IHS for temps, and it;s not about 2/3rd of way to the center, your measuring the temp of the IHS, not the core. And while the IHS may be transferring heat from the core over it's surface, it's also transferring the air-temp beneath it. Ever lok at waht's beneath the IHS at it's oyuter edge? Well it's basically the chip pacakage. And you wouldn't place your thermistor on the chip package to take a measurement.
I've never cracked an Intel core and I've easily removed two IHS's one from a 2.4C and one from a 3.0C, and I've cranked down numerous (at least four different) Socket-478 waterblocks onto those Intel cores. SO you can rest assured those IHS's are there because of exponentially increasing heat issues.
Measuring the temp of thermistor (because a thermistor only measures it's own temp) at the side would be analogous to placing the thermistor almost a full CM away (about a half CM) from the center of the IHS. Not to mention the air-flow above from the fan which is removing heat as rapidly as it's generated (if it's doing it's job). My recommendation is the following: watercool the A64 if you can afford it, and my honest opinion is the small amount you'll invest in an mid-level CPU watercooling system, will give you an immediate boost in performance far beyond what air-cooling can. More importantly, H20 would be a long-term investment extending the life of every CPU you cool with it thereafter. It would only cost a few dollars to switch to an Intel 775 or 478 mounting hardware down the road. If you want help, I can get you into a high quality water cooling system for under $180 (for everything needed) that will bring your temps down to a true 31C at full load, and 26C/27C at ilde if your room ambeint temp is 18C.
liquid3d@madshrimps.be
wow thanks!
so the gist of it is: if i keep air cooling id need to remove the ihs and then i could also put the diode on the side of the core
-or-
save some money and get watercooling. im thinking to go straight water first
maybe a swiftech 6000, silverprop fusion HL, mag 2 pump, clearfelx hosing and i wanna try evaporative instead of closed sys
Holy crap Im nude and loving it!
20c drop under load! OMFG
XP 120 with Panaflo medium(everyplace was sold out of 190cfm deltaS?)
with the IHS on I was getting 43c idle 69c load, I could bench and game at over 2600mhz but prime would fail instantly(other than that it was 100% stable odd)
Right now I am priming away at 2600mhz 1.65v @ 48c LOADED! I am amazed :) 38c idle 48c load, and I am hoping for 45c when the AS settles, and maybe if im REALLY lucky 40-43c when I get the 190cfm delta(with over 2x the airflow of whatI have now)
I think this chip might have 2750 in her on air now :) no complaints here
Hey could you answer this: Is it safe to take off the IHS? I hear the cores are fragile. I don't want to kill my CPU. I'm using the venus 12 (very heavy heatsink).
Like anything, its ok if youre careful :)
Just take your time and dont be careless and youll be ok
Anybody know anything about removing the P4 IHS? I have a northwood c.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aoc007
as long as its not MO stepping you should be fine. i ruined one it was a 2.4c MO and the ICh was glued to the core and i wound up shatering the core in like 600000 difernt pieces :( went from the mail box to the trash in 20 mins.... good luck take your time.
peace perc,
Mines a D1, anybody know anything about them, also would it crush easily when mounting a vapo ls to it?
well i got a new 3000+ today from rma, so ill try this.
if they both suck then ill remove the ihs off the old one
I've removed two Northwood IHS's and had no problem. Northwoods manufactured after 12/03 may have been epoxied. However; if your not watercooling it's completely a waste of time, as only the smaller footprint of the waterbock removes heat by isolating impingement on the core. Also Aircoolers such as Thermalright or other aftermarket heatsinks use standoff's to ensure the heatsink base only tightens down so far. Once the IHS is removed your unable to tighten down the heatsink so it makes solid contact onto the exposed core. Once I tried booting up only to find the paste hadn't even been disturbed by the heatsink. I filed down the stand-offs removing the same amount of material to match the thickness of the IHS (about a mm). NorthwoodQuote:
Originally Posted by aoc007
The 2c to 4C drop in temps really isn't worth the potential damage, and there's simply more effective ways to drop temps then nit-picking at your Processor.
I'll be using a vapo LS, but mine was manufactured in january of this year so I wont mess with it.
With all of those IHS removed, has anyone thought to look at changing the multipliers with the exposed links?
(or can this be done somewhere else -excluding clockgen software)
Great idea and welcome, but the multiplers are open in most BIOS's
i think he means upwards
Got myself a 3000+ S939 2 days ago, cooled it with a DD TDX block. At 290X9, 2.61Ghz, 1.68v (cpu-z), the full load temp was 55 degrees. After I removed the IHS, the full load temp shot up towards 80 degrees! Tried resetting the block a few times but keep getting sucky temps.
After that I applied some AS5 onto the core, popped back on the IHS (didn't glue it, just place it back on the proc), the full load temp dropped 3 degrees! Before Prime would fail in 90 minutes but today passed 12 hours at the same speed and settings!
Will try to fiddle again with a naked proc and the block when I have the time.
i think i might try it this weekend but im a bit scared about my hs not fitting
That I find to be odd? Not to doubt your finding's, it's just that the TDX has a verty small foot-print, and i've found it to be ideally suited for processor's with their IHS's removed. In fact I feel the AMD A64 IHS is so massive (larger then the PIV) that the TDX isn't the best block for the job. I bet you can see the edges of the IHS protruding from beneath the edges of the TDX. And remember that "cup" impingement zone only occupies about 25% of the total block's chamber. You were using through-board mounting correct? It seems as if something either prevented the TDX from making proper contact, amost as f there were stand-offs or something? I don't know what the S-939 socket looks like close-up, but I belaive most DD blocks rely on through-board mounting. Your not using mounting hardware which clamps down into the plastic retention bracket are you? What may happen is that the chip's core simply doesn't extrude high enough to clear the socket. Then the TDX would be tightend down onto the socket, and not so much the CPU. It may even be compressing the thermal paste, tricking you into believing it's making contact with the processor. Can you take a close up photo at an angle of the CPU locked into the socket with out it's IHS? This would give an indication if it's not high enough withot it's IHS to make full contact with the block.Quote:
Originally Posted by arj
i removed the ihs of my pentium 3 tualatin 1.3ghz 2 weeks ago :D
all i can say is:
STAY AWAY FROM RAZOR BLADES!
they only scratch the package and bend and break off etc etc... only caused troubles for me.
go to a farmacy and ask for a scalpel :)
that should do the job perfectly :)
No, it's the best way with razor blade :DQuote:
Originally Posted by saaya
A64 3200+ Naked
/joke mode onQuote:
Originally Posted by saaya
Perhaps it should be made clear which type of razor....
This...http://www.premiumknives.com/knifefi..._198_small.jpg is wrong
These... http://www.americancuttingedge.com/A...e%20Blades.JPG Are right!
/joke mode off
:p:
for me a razor blade worked bad... my scalpel worked perfectly... maybe the razor blade i used was too thin, it was bending all the time..
I just removed my IHS, it is fairly easy with a raror blade. The temp drop between 4-10 Degrees.
anyone want to sell me thier ICh that they ripped off thier cpu? im in need of one....
thx perc,
Well this can only get better.
http://mysite.verizon.net/res6otqr/s...s/dscn0712.jpg
Exactly what I was hoping to find under there. :)
Unfortunately I won't have any results real quick. Still have to mod the prommie bracket and well, tomorrow is football day you know. I will post back to give my results in a couple days though when I have it done.
Perc, if I'm happy with the results, I'll shoot you a pm to get your address so I can send you my spreader. Your shared experience with the topless chip/DFI LP UT/prommie bracket mod will save me a lot of time in shaving bracket, checking contact. At least now I can shave it pretty close before I take a fit check. :toast:
Well, it'd be great to tell you how well this all worked out, but my freakin' LP UT died on me. After all that work. I thought it must be the chip, or even though it looked like good evap contact, maybe that, but nope, it's the board. In my troubleshooting I put the spreader back on, used the retail cooler, switched to my 8KDA3J, and booted fine. Went back to the DFI, nothing. No idea wtf, but don't even get to post. Tried 1 RAM stick, clear CMOS, etc. Since I hate the Epox, and won't spend for another s754 board at this point in time, I guess my upgrade to s939 just got bumped up a few months. I'd love to give a temp compare after getting those bubbles under the IHS gone, but all my baseline temps were taken off the DFI board, although IIRC, even with the spreader back on, I'm around 10C cooler then I remember on the Epox. 3700+ already spoken for by a friend, with only air, but I'll post back if he gets any more out of it then I could on air.
Hey guys, this is my first post, and I'm in need of some help. I removed the IHS and figured out that the heatsink doesnt make contact with the heatsink. So I go ahead and silicone the IHS back up with the processor, just to find out that I have killed my cpu. I need to know what was that black rubbery stuff AMD used to glue the IHS to the processor, so I can RMA it. Thanks.
Shouldn't you just throw it away since you killed it?
welcome to XtremeSystem :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by NonProphets
please read the forum rules
Quote:
11. The management of this Forum does not condone theft, trading in stolen property, fraudulent return of merchandise, or the aiding and abetting of those who do. Any such discussions regarding stolen property or fraudulent returns will be dealt with swiftly, and the offending member risks complete loss of membership privileges in our Forums.
Hi. i received today my A64 3500+ " NewCastle", cananyone tell me if he is good for OC or should i make a change?
if its 939 then get a winchester! if its 754 then keep it... maybe test it first and sell it if you dont like it.
well i think its good overclocker.. i have now 2700MHz :)
DUDE!! that is exactly what happen to me with this dammed DTR3400 and DFI mb! i had shaved the bracket down like i showed you and was 100% sure i had great contact but after like a day or two of running it like that i was in the bios and was setting some memory timmings i hit exit and save and poof nothing never booted again??? im just now getting the dran dfi back from rma and man wtf? that is why i needed a ICh cause im not going thru this again. fugger was kind enough to send me one he had ripped off his 2800 chip so now i have it all glued on my 3400DTR chip and im ready to try this again :) we should make a thread called "putting the ICh back on :) "Quote:
Originally Posted by mikead_99
peace perc,
yes, thats a very good ocer :)Quote:
Originally Posted by luisp22
My Newcastle can only run 2.4 Ghz @ 1.7V. Temps are like 43 degrees load with uber watercooling. Worth taking it off?
i (tried) to read every post/page but havent seen anything on any winchester IHS's...
anybody tried on a 3500+ (939) winnie yet?
i know, i know:
(NO Joe, why dont YOU try it and tell us :stick: )
My co-worker at Legit Reviews has reviewed this CPU recently; http://www.legitreviews.com/article.php?aid=118
I actually gave it some thought when I was plugging my 939 back into my Neo2 this morning. I'll probably do it when I pick up a new heatsink next week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Camel
cool :cool:
i was just thinking that this new 90nm core might be a little easier to dammage than the monster sized 130nm 64 cores...but then agan we've worked with similar (sized) cores all this time and you dont hear about A LOT of chipped/cracked pallys, Tbreds or Bartons.
GOOD LUCK conrad.maranan
Tried on my 3200 and got a degree extra so far.
mad mikee
Taking the IHS off on 90 nm only yielded you 1C?!
mad mikee... you got any pics of it?
Hi
I can't go any higher before, then 2800MHz doesnt matter how much Volts!
Now i'm benchstable on 2930 MHz @ 1,66V :D
Gives me 6 - 8 °C under load!
hey...how fragile are the cores? how far can i go to screw my watercooler on it? until the screws are tighter than tight or whatever??
what about the idea of taking this little piece of metal from 3,5" disk instead of the razor blade?
Does anybody removed the IHS of a FX-55?
GravediggA what kind of cooling are you running?
Just normal Watercooling! :)
GravediggA, how tight have you screwed your watercooler to the cpu?? btw. translate your sig into englsih, my friend... i guess not everybody understands german... :banana:
Screwed it so hard as it goes.
[german]
Lol! Da sind gerade mal 2 deutsche Wörter drin.. Punkte u. einstellbar,
das werden die Leutz hier gerade noch überleben.
[/german]
its just a normal clawhammer core, ´there are many posts of clawhammers without ihs in this very thread :DQuote:
Originally Posted by krampak
and about the nekked winchester, WE WANT PICS! :D
so 6-8°C lower load temps with the winnchester without ihs? :slobber:
please keep it in english :P
>>so 6-8°C lower load temps with the winnchester without ihs?
That is what I would expect - MORE temp drops as opposed to the 0.13 cores.
Yes! My Loadtemp was ~ 50°C before and now it is 42-43°C! :)
U should search for an new Webspace m8! Most of ur links in the last 2 weeks
won't work! ;)
Edit: Yeah, after 2 min watching this thread i see 1 cm of ur pic! :D
do you want to p´lay a trick on me? then the core will break!? or is it that what you did?Quote:
Originally Posted by GravediggA
[german] scheiß drauf, hast recht, die wern das schon verstehen... sag mal, willste mich etz echt verarschen? die schrauben so fest anziehen wie möglich?!?! dann bricht doch der core, der soll ja bei A64ern besonders empfindlich sein!! [/german]
@ all others: is it true? screw the cooler on as tight as possible? and that WITHOUT IHS??!
No joke m8! Damn u really think i want that u break u core? :rolleyes:
As hard as it goes means, that i screwed it so far that the resistance, is
so hard, that u can't even do an half turn more on the screw without destroy
ur core! U must test that by urself, it's just a thing of feeling! :)
...just a thing of feeling! :stick: :rolleyes: :dammit: :bows: :explode: :bsod: :cord: :owned: ouhouhouh... i haven´t got a "good feeling"...
just tighten the scrwes so the cooler has good contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by GravediggA
[/ german]
ich glaube nciht dass viel druck viel hilft sprich dreh die schrauben so fest an bis der kühler fest sitzt und die ganze überschüssige wärmeleitpaste wegdrücken kann. wenn du dir nciht sicher bist ob du genügend druck ausübst: bau den kühler auf mit moderatem druck und schau auf die temps. nun dreh den kühler fester und achte wieder auf die temps. irgendwann ändern sich die temps auch nciht mehr ;)
[\german]
Got that experience from my XP-M and the 1A HV2! Temps rise if i lower
the pressure of the HV2! :)
IvanAndreevich
remount your wb i get that on quiet air (turned up loud) and 1.78v pretty stable
Quote:
Originally Posted by GravediggA
give me a suggestion m8 ;)
i don't know y, but how u said, the last 2weeks my webspace is crappy slow....
reject
My chip is :banana::banana::banana::banana:, I think. Might require removing the IHS. But I am not sure I wanna :banana: with it, since I have a S939 board coming and going to be picking up a 90 nm chip very soon.
GravediggA
Excellent! Nice decrease in temp.
>>I can't go any higher before, then 2800MHz doesnt matter how much Volts!
>>Now i'm benchstable on 2930 MHz @ 1,66V
Wow that's a hell of an increase. I might have to do it when I get one :slobber:
p4z1f1st
Imageshack.us for hosting pics ;)
Be every careful tightening down those blocks boys/girls. This is why higher tension Springs are so essential. I've tried mounting blocks without springs and in my experience if your needing to tighten down ANY block using that much pressure, the problem resides in the four mounting bolts themselves, and/or rentention mechanism itself.
Here's what I do. When I mount a block, first I insert the four mounting screws/bolts, through the back of the motherboard flip the board over and screw down the surface tightening nuts, BUT without tightenting them. Leave them about 3-mm above the mobo surface. With the CPU in the socket (no paste) slide the waterblock down onto the four mounting screws/bolts which will then be equaly spread by the waterblock mounting hardware and postion the mounting screws equi-distant from each other. Slide the WB all the way down until it rests evenly on the CPU's surface. Then (holding the block firmly to the CPU surface taping it over the top may help) tighten down the surface fastening nuts which secure the mounting screws onto the board surface. This should require a few turns as you've slide the block over them already. With the block resting flatly on the CPU, tightening down those surface nuts willl ensure the four mounting screws/bolts will remain equi-distant, as guided by the waterblock mount.
It takes some time and nimble fingers to get used to this method, but recently I ran my P4 530 at 89C, panicking once I'd discovred this getting to the temp screen while setting up the BIOS. I shut-down the system to see that I'd tightened down those retention nuts so that they compressed the springs 100% and I'd placed a lot of pressure on the block believing it made solid contact, only to find the block hadn't even made contact with the thermal paste, which was applied in a dollup meaning it had about 1mm of height off the CPU!
The tension I did feel was the waterblock as it dropped down on the four mounting screws which were obviously spread further apart nearest the bottom (surface of the mobo). Even though those screws fit perfectly through the board's mounting holes, they still had enough play to make it impossible for the block to make contact with the CPU as it neared the bottom of the mounting screws/bolts. Feeling tension as the block was sliding down the screws (you'll feel the vibration as the block drags along with the screw threads) I thought I was ok because I'd applied so much pressure. I'd even stuck my head in the case to get as close as a look as I could to verify the Block was making contact. So visually inspecting it isn't always reliable.
This also happened to my friend JNAV89GT recently, who ran his PC for almost 10-minutes without the the waterblock making ANY contact with the CPU surface. As a result I'm writing an article in which I plan on running py P4 530 without an IHS! Thermal throttling and VID kick-in at a specific temp which is why everyone experiences the same 89C temp.
If the waterblock doesn't glide easily from the top of the mounting screw or bolts to the CPU's surface then the screws inserted through the back of the motherboard were secured off-center (inntheir perspective holes) by the mobo surface nuts.
By the way although somewhat off-topic try measuring the distance between Socket-775 mounting holes. Their just about equi-distant, meaning it's very difficult to decide how to rotate the block if you don't align the impingement area over the core under the IHS.
Right, so here I am - I picked up a 3000+ 90nm and struggling with it to get it stable @ 300 HTT. The temps I am getting is 50C with water. That's high after the ASUS which was showing 40C under same load on a Newcastle. However, obviously you can't compare temps going from board to board.
What kind of speed increases did winch users get from taking the IHS off again? 50 Mhz?
STUCK @ 297x9 = 2670. ANYBODY who has tried taking off an IHS on a Winchester? Do you think it will let me run 305x9 or so stable?
Whats ur Temps with 2670MHz 1,xxV ?
If that's the case, it can't hurt (- rmaing..), and as long as your HS can sink a bit lower due to lack of IHS, I say go for it. Your IHS might have bad contact with the core, which might be causing your temps to be higher on that chip.Quote:
Originally Posted by IvanAndreevich
Ok, by this Quote i see ur Temps. It's an issue of the most Winchester, that
they get unstable with ~ 52°C in overclocked condition! Try to remove the
IHS and u will get maybe an nice boost! My one stuck @ 2780 MHz with ~ 52°C
doesn't matter which voltage, after removing IHS ... U can see the results
in my Sig.! ;)
GravediggA
Just over 50C full load. I am not sure if this is high on this board, or low. My 3000+ @ 2.4 GHz @ 1.7V on ASUS K8N-E was getting just over 40C full load. Did you take off your IHS?
viccyran
I know it can't hurt, but there is always a chance something could go wrong. So, I don't see a point in doing it if it will NOT do anything for me. I don't care about a 5 degree drop in temp I care about, say, 50 mhz o/c increase. Yes, the waterblock will make good contact either way.
Anybody who actually took the IHS from their winch and noticed an o/c increase?
This rule is just for the Neo2. (temps)
It'll help, it gave me 50 on my older one. 5 degree drop = higher OC, mainly because winnies like lower temps, there's a point just like gravedigga said where if you're running too hot, doesn't matter what voltage you give it, it won't budge. I might remove my IHS again.. but meh.. making contact with my water block with the neo2 is a biznay.Quote:
Originally Posted by IvanAndreevich
GravediggA
Excellent info from ya, thanks. Can you tell me how many MHz removing the IHS give you? Also, if the CPU temperature is below 50, CPU voltage helps once again? I know it doesn't help me anymore :(
viccyran
Helped you gain how many MHz? I want to see some specific numbers :toast:
BTW, about the load temps.. try this -
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...170#post644170
:)
;) From 50 - 150MHz.Quote:
after removing IHS ... U can see the results in my Sig.
GravediggA
I can see your OVERALL result. But just tell me 1 number -
1) How many mhz did it run exactly BEFORE removing
2) I can see how much it runs NOW (nice, btw :) )
Man.. 150 is A LOT. Even 50 is pretty good.
BTW, there was a link @ the begging of this thread, but it changed. The new link a GOOD GUIDE is -
http://www.burn-it.dk/index.php?page...hp&post_nr=375
Ok I did it -
http://img133.exs.cx/img133/1853/win...dcore014cz.jpg
http://img133.exs.cx/img133/4570/winch3000ihs026sw.jpg
http://img133.exs.cx/img133/1771/win...dcore036zt.jpg
http://img133.exs.cx/img133/175/winch3000cutting8jt.jpg
Temp down 7-8 degrees under load! Testing overclock right now. At first it was hard because I took a modelling blade which was waaay too thick. The thin blade I ended up using made it 100 times easier. I was easily done in 5 minutes. I bent a bunch of pins, so I had to bend them back.
So around 50 MHz gain from me :toast: Not much, but FREE
Nice work! :D
Bevor removing my Winchester stucks @ ~2790 MHz, doesn't metter how
much voltage!
Did anybody make a keychain out of the IHS?
Me not! :D
I suppose that in case we fail we can make the whole processor a keychain. :P
Ok, i wanna take the IHS out of my 2800+, it's stuck at 2600MHz with 1.85v, and i want more!!
The problem is i can't get a razor blade. Where's the most common place to get one? A barber shop?
regards
Took the blade of a gillete and removed the ihs with it.
The result is the board will turn off almost imediatly as i turn it on. But the cpu looks fine! The core isn´t crushed, and i didn´t touched any of the ic´s.
If i take the cpu out the board will stay on.
Now what?!?
Very likely you have bad contact.
Try to reseat your heatsink and make sure it isnt sitting on the retention bracket.
I´m using a asetek antartica. And it has proper contact because the paste is spreading evenly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus
Think i´ll buy a used cpu to see if it´s cpu fault, but it´s strange cause it doesn´t seem damaged.
Please see attached. It carries a WARNING :stick:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=24349
OMFG! :stick:
Some ppl... Just be a little carefull... It's really not that dangerous...
But even so I still would not recommend removing it...
Just thought I would post up my experiences...
I just upgraded to the DFI Ultra-D from an MSI K8N Neo2. With the MSI, I was running at 2.5~2.6Ghz stable for everyday use. So swap my stuff over to the DFI, got a new vid card. Everything worked fine at default voltages and up to 250htt. Wanted to go higher, (and I knew I could) so I pushed the voltage up to 1.5. But for some reason, my temps were idling at 50C and higher.. I'd try to boot into windows and the machine would shut down hard. Watching the temps in the bios, and it went as high as 80C before shutting down hard again!! I must have reapplied my AS5 10 times, trying to figure out what the heck was causing my temps to be so high... Nothing worked. (I'm no nobbie either... ;))
So I figured I'd strip my chip of it's cover and go nude.
Followed the directions on taking the IHS off, took my time and 5 mins later, it was off with no damage. Cleaned off the termal paste that was on there, made sure my HS would fit without making any mods,(XP-90) and put it all back togeter. Pushing the volts up and it was idling at less that 30C. Load temps never go over 42C. Played with it an hour and I'm now sitting pretty at 2.7Ghz stable!! Here's my setup:
DFI Ultra-D 2.09 bios
Winnie 3000+ 300x9 @1.55v 2.7Ghz!
2x256 Corsair XMS (very old BH-6) @ 2-2-2-2-7 245FSB @ 3.3v.
ATi X800 XT PCI-e
misc....
It was a totally worthwhile mod for me. Still haven't figured out why my temps were high and killing my system when the IHS was still on. But after I removed the IHS, everything is back to "normal" and working better than ever.
Awesome - your chip is just like mine Shaotai :)
Ok that's it i'm doing it . I'm getting crazy load temps with my WC setup ( 50°c + ) at only 1.55v .... and 2.6ghz max , no matter what voltage... Let's hope I dont keel the sucka :stick: :slap:
yo yo ocers, new member :) Say Hi
Woah, I'm impressed with temp. results! :toast: If I remove IHS, can I get rid of old thermal paste that came with cpu, apply AS5 and put IHS back together? Will IHS get glued back together? I got a TT Venus12 cooler, very heavy, will removal of IHS work? From what can I see, IHS is about 0.5cm thick, with this, will there be a good contact with clever pushed to max on my heatsink?
Take care ocers