Good luck Turok! Swiftech is out to lunch on this one... They been out of stock since last month and had an estimate of end of March for new stock.
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Good luck Turok! Swiftech is out to lunch on this one... They been out of stock since last month and had an estimate of end of March for new stock.
what!!!:brick:
I cant wait that long to start running my PC :(
I dont care the cost, Im getting the best of the best.
What do you recommend guys?
Read this post...
Estimate May or later
ok, im planning on getting the Monster core from Weapon :D
Will my 50z pump be ok with that huge rad., using the T res., and just cooling CPU for now?
With a monster core, you could probably benefit from getting a second 50z, or just getting an Iwaki MD20RZT.
well, I already made a backorder on CoolTechnica.com . Ill stay with this pump for now and when I get more money, Ill buy a GPU block and the best Iwaki or Blueline pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
and is the MCW 600X line the best waterblock out there?
No, it's the best for the 50z with a big radiator though. If you get the iwaki, then I'd reccomend switching to an RBX or another flow loving waterblock. But with one 50z and a big radiator, the MCW6000 will outperform nearly every block out there.
Try Bigfoot Computers for the 6002-64 water block. I waited for a month an
half to get one...got it last week.
www.bigfootcomputers.com
It is on B/O on the site but maybe it wasn't updated. Emailed them to make
sure, good luck.
A bit expensive at $60 without S&H. I guess Ill wait until next month. If the block isnt anywere at that moment, then Ill use that site as my last optionQuote:
Originally Posted by Kosmic71
He! he! 60$ Canadian, not American lol! about 47$US
oops
ok :D
I got my AX 50z and and all my other accessories. I have some questions regarding the pump:
1) When i was sleeving, I forgot to take a pic or record were the pins go.
Here is a pic afther sleeving. Are the cables at the right pins? Dont want to overvolt it by connecting the wrong pins.
http://img202.echo.cx/img202/1300/50z9rc.gif
2) My pump fell like 3.5" from the top of the HD bay on the bottom of the case and from there it fell to the bottom of the case.:shocked:
Its a small fall, but this thing is heavy, so I would like to know if it will end up DOA afther that? Dont think its enough to kill it, but I dont know how fragile this pump is.
3) Can I share the power with other hardware? (example: I have the CD-ROM sharing power with the front fans and then it hooks up with the PSU cable and that cable has 3 4pin connections, one if them is being udsed by the pump
just look at ur psu cables.. the red cable goes to hte yellow cable on the psu.. rememer red to yellow.. the black doesnt matter which of the two midle pins it goes into..
EnJoY, thanks a lot for the tube recommendation.:up:
This thing fits perfectly with my 1/2" fittings. :banana:
It grips very tight on the fitting. Looks like a safer solution.
Here are some picks showing the tube and my pump fitting:
This shows the diameters of both
http://img15.echo.cx/img15/6628/tube3tv.gif
Here is a pic with the tube about 2mm in
http://img15.echo.cx/img15/5663/tube20xp.gif
My build is alsmost done. Whats left is the CPU, GPU, Water Block, and the Weapon Monster core :D
Any word on the MCW 6002's yet?
No problem man, good to see it worked for you. :toast:
I went to www.swiftech.com and clicked on "were to buy" I found that they sell their stuff in Fry's too.
Has anyone from TX seen a MCW 6002 in Fry's?
Is this why Swiftech wont fabricate more blocks, because they want to get rid of the older blocks?
Everything else from Swiftech seems to be well in stock.
Got this on their website:
http://img171.echo.cx/img171/1593/clearancesale5rn.gif
I would give Swiftech a call and find out whats up. When I called them last month, they told me the end of May. Here it is the end of April, with no blocks insight.
I was going to go with the same block. I placed my order then I recieved an email about out of stock. SO I just sent a deposit for silver for the Storm G5, Atleast right now I know my silver is at the machinist being produced.
Grant it it is much more expensive, but it is the best!
everyone agree?
Is the Storm G5 the best block for my solution? Better than the MCW 6002?
I need a block soon, so if there is something better than the MCW 6002, let me have it.
If its a bit more expensive, I dont care. I need a block now.
I will not wait until late May hopping they get it back in stock.
Is this a custom block?
Is it safe?
You are late for the G5, but G4's will be running soon. But I don't think you want to wait that long?
I would just go to this Site and order that block. Make sure you have them add the copper top when you order. Plus have them add the additional nozzles.
I dont know some of these materials and stuff in english:
Is brass the same thing as copper?
Whats Lucite, the acrilic?
Whats the extra O-ring?
It it that thing that goes between the top and the fitting?
What does it do?
What are the accelerator nuzzles?
In FrozenCPU.com I saw that they were flow reguletors, but how do they work?
Final questions would be:
Is this the best block for my 1/2" solution?
Will it kill flow? (going to use a 50z pmp)
1 Brass is just copper and zink
2 Don't get the lucite top, get copper.
3 The extra O ring is for a spare.
4 Yes
5 Stops leakage
6 You use them to fine tune your setup
No, your flow will be fine. You use the nozzles to fine tune your setup for best temps.
They don't have a copper top, only brass top and chrome brass top.
Found this chart.
http://www.procooling.com/html/pro_testing.php
So the LR Whitewater is the best?
Not even close...I don't know how you came to that conclusion. Since you can't get the Swiftech MCW6002, get the Danger Den TDX, they perform roughly the same with your flow.
K.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Ill have it as a open option
ok, Im going for the TDX. Looks like a real nice block
Whats better, silver or copper TDX?
Im guessing silver
:shocked: $125 for silver
Should I get the Accelerator Nozzles?
Do I need a flow and temp indicater to know how to set them up.
I dont know anything about these Nozzles, so please explain for a noob :D
I saw some reviews saying that the PanaFlo TT was good. Is that true?
Get the copper version, the silver is no more than 1c better, not worth the money. Get the accelerator nozzles, they are very easy to put in, it'll be self explanatory once you get the block and the nozzles. You just take the top off with the allen wrench they provide you. Make sure you use nozzle #4 when you do the switch.
The PolarFlo TT is a good performing block, very well crafted, but they are expensive. Secondly, they use an anodized aluminum top which as well all know will corrode eventually.
Get the TDX, you'll be very pleased.
Should I wory about leaks on the TDX?Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
How do the nuzzles go?
Any pics showing how they work?
Lol, I knew you were going to ask about leaks. You worry waaaay too much man. The nozzles are little tiny plastic things, they fit right into place where the stock one is, took me like a minute and half to install the nozzle on my RBX awhile ago. Just get the block and nozzles and you'll be just fine.
oh, I see now
Didnt quite get your explanation, but I found this that helped me get the idea
http://www.madshrimps.be/printart.php?articID=152
Since Im going to use the TDX block with brass top, is it a good idea to apply AS5 between the brass top and the copper bottom?
Will it help transfer heat to the top, so water absorbs heat from the top and the bottom.
Also, wouldnt the thermal compund protect a bit more against leaks since it fills the smallest gaps between the brass top and the copper bottom making it harder for water to get out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
No. :hm:
turok.. there is no real cooling happening in the top. its all in the base near the center where the channels are.
so do NOT put thermal past anywhere but on the cpu.
very little cooling anyways, adding TIM wouldnt help though. Dont bother.
It seems really unnecessary. I would like to ask though Turok, what nozzle fitting are you going to use with the TDX? The stock, or some other ones?
I informed him that he should use the #4, once he receives the block + kit.
Yeah, Ill use what EnJoY said.Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowing
It will have 1/2" OD fittings and the tubes are 7/16"
Ill replace the nuzzle to #4.
Whats the #4 btw?
Is it the one with the largest hole?
The default nuzzle is the one with a lot of tinny holes, right?
If there is no heat going to the brass top, why should I use a brass top?Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Would a acrylic top crack?
Yes, there has been some people that have had the clear tops of the TDX crack and leak. But also it could be from people replaceing the tops too tight when changing nozzles. I don't really know, and would not want to test it out on my system.
If I was you I would try all the nozzles out to see what temps you get. You could run a log and monitor the temp for a week then switch nozzles. This way you can find whats best for you. You probly end up using #4, but you will know for sure thats the best one for your setup.
The nozzles have the numbers on them. The number 4 is the one with the smallest/thinnest slit in it. The #5 is the one with all the wholes.
Hi againQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Im starting to get everything to finish my build. I got my TDX block, GPU, and some other stuff.
I have some questions:
Is there a site that can show me how to instal the nozzles and the TDX block?
I see that the GPU has a PCI-E power adapter with only 3 cables, but the PCI-E cable on my PSU has all the 6 cables. :confused:
Is this right? Whats the diference?
Dude, take the top off your TDX. It couldn't be more obvious once you see it lol. About the PCI-E power plug, I've never used PCI-E...but I maybe the 6 pin plug you're referring too is just two 3 pin plugs attached togethor.
I know I have to open the block, just asking for something more specific.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
One of the things is whats the order of the screw, springs, the small pipe, and the rubber things when installing the TDX block?
This information is on DangerDen's website.
Help!!!
I pealed off the stickers on the sides that say that waranty will be voided if removed and I removed all the screws on top until I got to a screw that didnt want to move. The hole seems to be a bit larger or pealed off and the screwdriver from the nozzles cant move it. I dont have a tip that fits on this thing and I dont want to try to get it out with the screwdriver from the nozzles because I could peal it off.
I would recommend they change the screws on the TDX blocks because these hexagon holes peal off easier. :mad:
http://img238.echo.cx/img238/8589/tdxproblem4cb.gif
If I cant get this screw out, how the hell am I suposed to get it out?
Will they RMA if I pealed the stickers? They should, since their nozzle screwdriver or the screws on the TDX block are defective.
Anyone know the size of these fittings?
Anyone know the dimencions of the screws so I can change them so they work for cross or flat tipped screwdrivers?
hmmmm. Will adding greace on the sides of the screw help loosen it?
Turok... maybe if you bought a hex tip screwdriver you might be able to get a little more leverage and get the screw out?
yeah, I was thinking about going to HomeDepo and find a fitting for my screwdriver with removable fittings. Problem is, what will I do if there is no way to get it out?Quote:
Originally Posted by Twoces
One of my ideas if this happens is to go to a metal shop and ask someone to weld a piece of metal on the top of the screw so I can force it out. I wouldnt like to end up doing this just because DangerDen didnt give me good screws or something like that.
Ok guys
I solved my TDX block problem and everything is set up. I sleeved all my cables (even the DFI chipset fan :D)
Added some AS5 on the chipset and the CPU.
All the stuff is pluged in and ready to go, except the tubes.
Im still missing the Heat Core. I will be getting the Monster core next week.
I also have to get some distilled water :p:
So all Im missing is the tubes I havent instaled, the monster core, and some distilled water.
http://img143.echo.cx/img143/3351/wcsolution9tn.gif
I would likes to get some hints on how to instal the tubes to gain the highes performance possible. I have some simple questions about it:
* Between the T fitting of the reservior and the pump, is it best to have it close to each other, even more close so the tips are touching, or far appart?
* My solution involves bending in diferent directions. Should I put it as short as possible (close to kinking), or should I feed more tubbing?
* Whats the best reservoir tube size?
Any other tips on tube setup that may help my peformance?
Turok
that isnt a reservoir man.. its a T line... they are two seperate things.
here is the rule for tubing. short as possible with hte LEAST bends. if u have to bend somethign relaly hard to get it short dont do it.
KQuote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
I know the T line isnt a reservoir, but it would be like a water tank.
Sry for mixing them up. :p:
I dont intendo to squeeze the tubing through something, problem is that the WC stuff are close together and I need to make some curvs to connect everything.
I guess Ill put the tubes as short as possible without making it kink or reduce the ID.
I still would like to know if its better to have the tip of the T line touching the tip of the pump fittingand having them holded together with the tube so it looks something like this:
http://img195.echo.cx/img195/1463/tto50z5ur.gif
The top one with tubing in between.
I disagree. Shorter the tubing the better....
So Turok .. what temps are u getting with the setup and with what overclock?
Been following this thread and the plot is really thickening :)
Cheers
lol... the plot... soap opera water cooling.
Glad you guys like my thread :D
I havent installed the tubbing because Im missing the heatcore. I just bought the core from weapon today (05/10/2005). Waiting for a email reply of the shipping date.
My best bet is that Ill have it running before the end of this week.
Almost forgot that I have to download the latest drivers and burn them on a CD so Im up to date the first time I run my system :D
Does the DFI nf4 have a software that permits BIOS flashing within windows? Im not going to use a floppy disk and my cables are tie wraped so I cant move them.
Since Im not a "pro OCer" (as I said in the beginning of this thread), I dont know much about the best benchmarking software.
What softwares can i use to benchmark my system?
I dont want any softwares that require a floppy.
Could I get more info on software like Super-Pi, Prime, etc.
I use CPU-Z, why do other people use some other software called like "Central Brain Identifier". Is it better?
CBID is just different, good to have too.
Winflash will work to flash your bios in windows, just make sure you have nothing else running (including aim and antivirus software) when you flash.
hey.
I saw someone in the XS gallery thread with a x800xl on a DFI nf4, but he had the 4pin plug being used.
I posted a question about it but decided to post here too because I get faster answers :)
From what I understand, that is only to give a SLI solution more power.
Is it ok to have a 4pin on the motherboard? If so, what are the benefits?
4 Pin 12v connectors, or P4 connectors, are on all motherboards these days since they were first introduced by Intel for thier Pentium 4's (hence the nickname "P4"). Socket A boards began to use them as well to get more stable voltages and such around the time of the nForce 2. The 4 pin connector on the motherboard is critical to stabilty and overclocking and most motherboards these days won't even work without them.
NooooononononQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
I didnt mean that 4 pin plug. Im talking about this one:
http://img134.echo.cx/img134/6589/4pinplug6sz.gif
Everyone knows about the P4 connector. Lol :D
Oh, so are you saying your X800 XL is using a standard 4 pin molex like that as well?
And I've heard that if you plan on using the 4vdimm option you may also need that SLI power connector on the board.
Noooooo, you got me wrong again.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
First of all, I got a Sapphire x850xt Dual DVI + VIVO.
Second thing is that Im asking who another person has the connection? What are the benefits?
Im going to add the link where I saw this so you can see it your self.
Its on the bottom of this page
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...highlight=4pin
so its only to make 4v Vdimm mod more stable? It wont overvolt the card so I can OC better? More info would be nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
I have only one free 4pin connector and its really close to the SLI power, so I want to know if its better to have it in so I can cut the tie wrap and extend it closer to the SLI plug.
Turok
Hey guys.
I finally go the monster core. :woot:
Now I have all the pieces for my rig :rocker:
I won’t post any picks until I finish.
Going to make it like a gallery where you can see how the project has been coming together.
I may open another thread for the gallery because they are a lot of picks.
Ill put a hyperlink to it when I’m done
Right now Im going to hook up the rad and the tubes and let the pump running with the PC off to check for leaks.
I have some questions:
1) How do I instal the shroud?
Im guessing you put the screws through the fins, but wouldnt that damage the core?
2) Are the fans suposed to pull air though the fins? Wouldnt it be better to blow air through the fins?
1. If the screws line up so that they go through the core, than simply put them through the fins...don't worry about breaking a few, just don't hurt the water channels going up and down the core cause then you'll get a leak. If the screws don't line up with the fins of the core, then it's probably one of his new designs that is meant to be mounted to something, putting the threaded rods on the side of the core and using the pressure of whatever it's mounted to to hold the shroud on.
2. Pulling has been proven to be better than pushing on a heatercore and most other rads. The new Thermochill PA160 is an exception as Marci has stated it performs better with the fan blowing.
:shocked: I got a leak on my pump!!! :mad:
What can I use to stop it? :( I tried rubber ceramic. Only stoped the top one but the bottom one still leaks. :mad:
Here is a pic:
http://img247.echo.cx/img247/4168/turokswc2leak1gv.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
Did you use teflon tape on the threads of those barbs? Doesn't seem like you did... :rolleyes:
The pump came with teflon on it. I just screwed them in until I couldnt go on and they leak
well put your own teflon, or seal the barbs with a lot of silicone.
I dont want to replace the teflon. Its a lot of work
The pump is really hard to get out and removing the 7/16" from the fittings is even harder. I could also spill water all over the place trying to take it off.
Ill use the cilicon, but I have a question about it.
Wont silicion morph with heat changes? Will it lift?
luckly there is a small portion of teflon on the edges so it can grip well in between, but th plastic of the fittings is really smooth so it could lift without that teflon there
Dude drain the system and reseal the fitting. Better than leaking water all over your equipment. Use liquid plumbers sealant. Also known as liquid teflon tape. It can be bought at any hardware store for a few bucks. Also don't overtighten the fittings or they will leak. Don't use silicon with teflon tape or paste. The silicon will not stick and there is a good chance the leak will come back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
You can use silicon by itself. I still prefer the liquid teflon tape.
Turok, you don't know what teflon tape is I don't think. It's thing elastic tape you wrap around the threads on the fittings before you screw on the barbs. This is not the teflon your thinking of that rough to grip and on the bottom of frying pans. Go pick some up at a hardware store and put it on and you wont have leaks anymore.
I know what teflon tape is. :slap:
I know I ask stupid questions, but its just to be safe.
Today I got a role of teflon tape.
The tubbings are really hard to get loose, so I just drained some of the water going from the pump to the CPU block. cutted that tubbe and got the pump out. Had the cap on so pressure make the watter still and took out the pump by unscrewing the fitting. I replaced the teflon and added about 3 layers of full cover. Funny you say that I shouldnt tighten too much because I got the fittings tight enough that I could see the top of the fittings form a bump. Thought this would make it harder for water to pass. Havent tested it yet. Ill be connecting the tube on the CPU block soon. The blocks where tighten by hand when they leaked and now I tighten it with help of tools. If I did something wrong, please tell me.Quote:
Dude drain the system and reseal the fitting. Better than leaking water all over your equipment. Use liquid plumbers sealant. Also known as liquid teflon tape. It can be bought at any hardware store for a few bucks. Also don't overtighten the fittings or they will leak. Don't use silicon with teflon tape or paste. The silicon will not stick and there is a good chance the leak will come back.
You can use silicon by itself. I still prefer the liquid teflon tape.
Also, when I was taking off the pump, I accidentally got a lot of watter over my 74Gb Raptor and the SATA cables :eek: . I dried what I could and went and put the HD on a window for a bit of sunlight. Afther that I ran my 80mm raptor for about 3-4 hours wile I was out doing things like getting the teflon tape. Afther that it looked dry like new. To make sure I left it about 15 min with the tornado blocking on specific zones on my HD to make sure everything is dry. Afther doing all of this, will my HD survive :(.
Should I be ok by just blow-drying the SATA cables?
Turok
Turok,i think i would place raptor on antistatic bag with breather hole up (the side with no lable) and use hair dryer to heat it up to dry any moisture that may be inside. I would do this several times. Good luck.
I think it's already fine tuork, just let it sit in a warm place and dry for a few days. Don't use a hair dryer because you could actually damage it more that way by making it too hot.
Yeah, I did'nt want to use the hairdryer because it was too hot and I had to hold a button to cool the air. There was no temp modifier. Or it was hot, or it was cold.
My 80mm Tornado actually had more airflow than the hairdryer :p: . This fan is crazy.
I may use the hairdryer on the cables for a while since they are more heat resistant. Wont have it too long because my cable sleeving could start to melt :p:
I have a problem putting the watter in. I get a lot of air bubbles wile the pump loops the watter. Im guessing you just let the pump on, let the T line cap off, and fill the T line about 2" from the T fittings so the bubbles get out from the open T line and are replaced by the 2" of water reserve.
EDIT: nm :D Now its free from bubbles :).
Problem was that the Monster core is too big and I had it standing up with the tubes on the side. I had to lay it down and move it in different directions so it fills with water so the air inside of it comes out.
One thing bothers me the most now. You guys said I shouldnt tighten the fitting too much, but this is how it looks right now:
http://img74.echo.cx/img74/9097/pump2uy.gif
Am I ok, or will this be a problem in the future :confused:
Finally!
Im done with the hardware part of my build. :)
Looks like my HD is alive. :banana: Got woried it would have some water beneath the chip where the SATA cables go.
I ran my PC and I wasnt really impressed with the temps from the BIOS.
It says:
CPU: 35 C
Chipset: 45 -50 C
Ambien temp at that time was 21 C
I was expecting al least 30 C on CPU.
Are these temps right w/ a Monster core?
I havent done any BIOS flashes yet.
I also have problems setting up Win XP.
When it satarts scanning for hardware, I get the "Blue Screen Of Death".
I also noticed that my PC runs really slow (specially at boot)
Im guessing I have to flash the BIOS first, and then add some drivers on before Win XP finishes scanning for hardware (pressing F6).
Please guide me to the process of instalation of my OS and a stable system.
Turok
You need to give the system time to settle, get all the bubbles out, let the TIM cure, etc. Your temps will improve. If they don't I'd agree that something may be wrong. However you have yet to look at your load temps. If you are at 40c or below, you know it's working.
Interresting stuff :)
Ill look for improvements.
BTW, whats TIM? :p:
Right now I have to figure out how to run Windows. Is thsi common with DFI boards on the first time its runned?
I just need a BIOS flash, right?
Turok
T.I.M. = Thermal Interface Material you are most likely not using one. A factory AMD heatsink has one. You are using thermal paste correct? I see very little temp change due to burning in. Your temps seem fine. The most important thing is how high your load temps are. Also I would re-seat your cpu if you believe that the temps are to high. A miss seated water-block is are with A64 but I guess it could happen. One thing to make sure of is to not use to much thermal paste. Just a small amount in the center of the cpu. When the water-block is applied the paste will spread to a thin coat and you will get the best temps.
As for the blue creen of death durning bootup. That is most likely due to two things.
One: bad hardware.
Two: Bios related. Some of the new AMD cores require a bios flash to run properly. I built a venice (Rev E) core + DFI SLI-DR and got blue screens until I flashed to one of the beta bioses. Now it runs perfectly. I believe it was bios 416. (I will have to check) The bios was for TCCD ram and the venice core. (Your XL Pro is TCCD)
Yes, Im using AS5.
I applyed about 2 grans of rice and tighted real good. A bit whent to the sides when tightening.
Im going to use the 5.10-1 BIOS that I got on the "DFI bug fixes" thread
Hope this works.
Turok
When applying AS5, you should always spread it out evenly before applying the heatsink/waterblock.
Oh and TIM is everything from thermal tape, epoxy, thermal pads, and thermal paste.
yeah, I used my school ID to spread it evenly :D
(a quick off topic question)
BTW, is the MX 1000 still the best mouse for gaming?
Ive seen other mouses come afther the laser tech from the logitech MX1000, but is any of them better?
I still think the MX 1000 is the best because its wireless and it has a good design that grips on your hand, and I dont think psi's over the MX 1000 will improve aim. Its like comparing 30 fps with 60 fps. No difference.
The MX1000 is not a good mouse for gaming at all from the reviews. It's actually worse than the MX700 for gaming. I use the MX510, but the MX518 is out and I'll probably use my warranty to get that.
i prefer my mx1000 for gaming as opposed ot the mx700, its lighter and defo mroe responsiveQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
mx700 had noticeable lag compared to a wired mouse
of course this is all my opinion, no right or wrong here
Why is it worst?
Isnt it more acurate?
I have a MX 1k for this PC (the old PC) but need to get a mouse for my new build, so I would like to know whats the best for getting those headshots :D
BTW, I think my MX 1000 is really good for gaming. Very acurate (for me). I havent gone though the MX series. The MX 1k is my first MX mouse, so I dont know for sure if its the best
MX518 + Icemat rev 2, Steelpad qct+ or another smooth and big game pad. Logitech mice dont like hard mousepads like ratpadz. I personally use my MX510 with a $1 staples pad and I do fine hehe, get 3|1 ratios in cs: source most of the time now. :D
I use the Xtrac pro mouse mads.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Very cheap, smooth, and effective. Looks nice too.
Do you know a good review supporting this?
A review that shows that the MX1000 isnt that good for gaming and another showing how the MX 518 runs
Turok
Was looking arround and people say the MX 518 is better because of USB speed.
The MX 510/518 have a refresh rate of 1000 Hz wile the MX 1k has a refresh rate of 125 Hz.
This is a tough one since the MX 1k is wireless.
Impressive stuff. The MX 518 has 1600 dpi wile the MX 1k has 800dpi. Is this whole laser thing just a showoff?
:slapass: :nono:
How much does the MX 518 weigh compared to the MX, and is the cord light and thin and easy to move arround or can it be anoying.
BTW, how about the Razor mouses? I like the fact that they have laser tech, and red LED lights, but dont know if the grip of the mouse and the cord may come to a disadvantage.
Please help me decide :confused:
Turok
my mouse mat is a 44x30cm teflon baking sheet from sainsburys, cost me £3
taped the edges down to the desk and is a perfect surface for my mouse, about 1mm or less in thickness so doesnt raise your rist from the table
any Uk'ers about i suggest the baking sheet over a £20+ pad like the icemat
heres what it looks like:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCF0133.jpg
ok, I decided go to with the MX 518.
You where right EnJoY, the MX 518 is way better :up:
The only disadvantage I see on the MX 518 is the cord, but anywait its long and light enough to leave a trail of cable on the front for spontanious mobility.
Im thinking on updating to a larger Xtrac mouse pad.
Im thinking on getting the Xtrac Ripper XL because it matches my black theme and its huge.
I have a question
What are the advantages and disadvantages of having:
1) A thin, flexible, smooth cloth (plastic I think) + MX 518
2) A hard, flat, smooth surface + wax + MX 518
If you use a hard, thick grained mouse pad like some of the steel pads or ratpadz...you'll need mouse gliders, or mouse feet as they call them for the MX mouse, as otherwise the little soft pads will catch on the hard surface of the pad and actually make for worse movement and it will ruin your mouse.
I personally like smooth optical mousing surfaces, like Steel Pad's QCT+.
back to WC, I have a question about my zerex fluid.
I mixed exactly 5% on my distilled mixture and it has a really light red.
I see people here with a more redish color.
Shoudl I add more zerex? If I need more zerex, how can I add it without draining mytubes?
Im quessing I would have to inject the fluid directly on the intersection of the T fitting wile looping the water with the pump only if I need it
You could maybe add another cap full if you want, it wont really hurt. Just add it via the T fitting while the loop is running.
This PC is pissing me off :mad:
I cant get windows to instal. :(
Afther the process of formatting it always hangs.
I havent flashed because I dont know how to flash on the DFI board.
Could anyone help me to get started with flashing my PC?
I read that you can flash with a CD rom.
I added the latest 5.10-1 on a CD, I just need to figure out how to flash with it.
Afther flashing, do I have to set up my BIOS for a single drive? My storage solution is a single Raptor 74gb 10k rpm's on the SATA 1 connection on the mobo.
Are you holding down F8 when windows is loading the drivers to load the sata driver, before you even get to the formatting?
For me its F6 to load extra drivers from the floppy
One time y tried it and got the BSOD afther it finished recognizing the drivers.
Dont I have to flash first so it recognizes everything before windows starts installing.
Going to try again passing the drivers from the floppy that came with the DFI box
omg, I finally flashed my BIOS to 5.10-1 :banana: :woot:
PC runs much more stable now.
What I did is I got the BIOS and BIOS flash utility on one floppy and on another floppy I made it a bootable DOS.
I first reseted everything to "optimal defaults" on BIOS.
Then, I rad DOS with the Bootable DOS floppy, changed floppies and typed awdflash.exe to run the flash utility. I added the bin flash program, backed up the old one and flashed.
Afther flashing I reset my PC and once again reset to "Optimal Defaults" afther BIOS flash. Reseted again and the boot screen instead of 30 seconds now took about 5 seconds to load IDE and SATA drives (like any normal PC) :)
Hope this helps any other noobs having problems flashing their DFI nf4
Now Ill try installing windows. Lets see if it doesnt hang again
Good luck!
Remember, after flashing...always power down, clear cmos and unplug your pc...some even like to remove their cmos battery completely although I don't.