LiquidFrostbyte

haha, no kidding but right on that you got a new one.

i got a new res today; it's a igloo 2gal cooler from walley world

i tried to make a bulkhead fitting but i couldn't get it to seal very well... so i went to Patco, a liquid fittings specialty store here in town & bought a 5/8"x5/8" male JIC bulkhead fitting & 2 - 3/4" ID o-rings. this will give me a liquid tight seal for fluid transfer. cost of the bulkhead fitting and o-rings was $5.97

here is a pic of the bulkhead fitting installed

and a perfect fit on the inside

here is a pic of the pump attached to the res before insulating everything. this is the one place in your cooling loop that u can use a larger connection for better performance

i want to incorporate the pump & res as part of the chiller so i got to thinking of a way to extend the platform on the back of the chiller. i went to home depot and found these 2 green 9x9 drainage greats on sale for $1.67ea, the guy said they discontinuing the green ones :cool:

i will be joining the two drainage greats with JB weld tonight and bar clamping them together. then i'll bolt through them on each end in the middle. this will make the platform for the pump and res to sit on behind the chiller... hey chilly1 you'll know where i'm going with all this what do ya think?

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Originally posted by WeStSiDePLaYa
LOL i cant believe they actually replaced the pump. did they ask what the hell you were doing to make it melt?

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LOL :p: yea... i told her it musta been defective or something... she said you poor dear would you like to try another, i said ummm... ok! :D

Looks good, if you look in the back of the chiller you will see another one of those 9 inch wide grids.

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Originally posted by chilly1
Looks good, if you look in the back of the chiller you will see another one of those 9 inch wide grids.

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yea at first i was gonna attach 1 of the drainage greats to the one u put in the back of the chiller but it came up a little short. two of them together gave me just the right distance w/ the fan & pump sitting up under the shell over tube HX. the outlet and the res r the only parts that will be sticking out the back, about 10” from the back of the case. the platform has been glued & bolted & bar clamped in position. i will spray-paint it black to match the chiller case tomorrow after the JB weld sets up tonight.

I dont think that this fan make any diference, just putting the pump out of the water without insulation will work.
If the pump did not have enough power to flow the liquid it will melt or just break again, you cannot disipate anything with plastic.
I used to had a danner mag 7 in my last WC system, 4 hours working and you cannot touch it without burning your finger.
I think the mag5 dont go as hot as the 7, use denaturated and it will do it well.

i leak tested the pump and the res last night and the mag 5 pump would not seal at the face and when i tried to tighten the screw where it was leaking the post cracked. at this point i am through w/ the mag 5 pump. i'm not going to return this one though because the woman at the pet store was so nice about taking the last one back that i'm going to eat it and chalk it up to experience. i just had too much trouble w/ this pump trying to run it inline. if you want to dump it in a res and use it as a submersible pump it will probably work ok, if you don't mind the extra heat it will add to the cooling loop. the good thing is that the bulkhead in the res works great! and the fan did keep the pump cool...:)

i had an eheim 1048 pump from an old water cooled rig lying around so i hooked it up. it only moves 158 GPH but then it only generates 10 watts of heat & this pump is quiet... so quiet that i have to get my ear down next to it to make sure it is running & the best part is no leaks!

sweet kkep us posted with pics and updates. Looking good so far. I had to reinsulate my block and lines saturday was getting some dripps here and there od condensation. should be better now I noticed a 3c drop in temps :)

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Originally posted by S_I_N
sweet kkep us posted with pics and updates. Looking good so far. I had to reinsulate my block and lines saturday was getting some dripps here and there od condensation. should be better now I noticed a 3c drop in temps :)

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sounds good S_I_N... i hope i get mine going soon, maybe by this weekend if the mastic i ordered comes in this week

here is a pic of my eheim hooked up and running of my back patio for a leak test... i went to move the pump a little and the face plate on the front of the pump almost came off. i really don't think this pump is very safe for what i'm using it for. even though it is quiet it has seals at the inlet and outlet and the face comes off too easy & really doesn't have the enough head pressure to move liquid through the chiller loop and two blocks with the force i would like to see it have.

that left me with one pump left to try that i had on hand, my swifttech MCP600, i think this pump is really better suited for what i'm trying to do... there is plenty of head pressure to push the alcohol through the cooling loop and 2 WB's, there r no seals at the inlet & outlet and it's very quiet almost as quiet as the eheim 1048 pump, and best of all it is 12v only requires 5-10 watts to operate. i leak tested it last night and it passed with flying colors. i tested it with my computer power-supply, but today i'll be going to radio shack and buying a 10-12 watt power supply just for the pump so i can operate it separate from my computer.

here is the 12v 1000ma power supply i got @ radio shack for $18.00. i'll be using this to power my swiftech mcp600 rev2 pump.

i also found some sturdy shelving that they were closing out @ my local sears for $9.97... what a deal!!!:D this will make it easy to get @ everything & fine tune the chiller to load. i had to notch out the back shelf for the entire platform to fit. you can see i have also insulated the pump & the line going from the outlet of the pump to the inlet of the chiller w/ rubatex.

sealed the back of my mb tray with two different materials 3m scotchfil & cork insulation tape.

i first put down a layer of 3m scotchfil, pinching the sides together as i went. then i put down a layer of cork insulation tape going the opposite direction, pinching the edges together as well.

the build up of these two layers gave me exactly the right heigth i needed to fill this area & seal out condensation.

i turned my attention to the back of my asus p4p 800 deluxe mb next. to seal the back of it i used 3m vinyl mastic pads.

the pads have a peal off back that adhere to the back of the mb nicely. they also have interlocking edges to help seal out moisture. i went a step further by using electric tape of all the seams.

NICE WORK--I CANT WAIT TO SEE IT "chilling"

OCme, did you buy the 3m products and the cork tape at a local store or online?

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Originally posted by gouda96
OCme, did you buy the 3m products and the cork tape at a local store or online?

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i purchased them brick & morter thru an elecrtical supply house here in town... i had to special order the scotchfil & it took a couple weeks to get that in, but they had the cork tape & the vinal mastic pads in stock.

i ended up removing the 3m vinyl mastic pads from the back of the mb before installing it on the mb tray, it was just too high w/ it on there for everything to line up... i saw where someone used it to seal the back of a mb, but i guess that was an air system... i finished the job by sealing the edges w/ seal string & got a great seal. i'll post a pic of the mb sealed up tonight, won't be long now...

after i mounted the mb onto the tray i trimmed around the outside edge w/ a razor then put seal string around it.

tonight i'll be sealing the inside & outside of the cpu socket, the outside of the agp socket, and the base of any transistors that r close them with some dow corning conformal coating in a syringe

w/ the conformal coating dry, i started filling the holes in the back of the mb tray w/ cork tape. i cut little plugs then worked them into the holes in the mb tray, pressing out around the edges

i had the 3m vinyl mastic pad left over that i pulled off the back of the mb earlier before i mounted it & i didn't want to waste it

so i stuck it to the back of the mb tray & taped the edges w/ e-tape

then i carefully drilled the holes for the wb bracket w/ a 9/64" drill bit

i end up w/ a booger of insulation & metal shavings on the end of the drill bit w/ each hole drilled that i pulled off before drilling the next hole

time to start thinking about wut i'm going to do about the wb's... wut a insulation night mare... irregular surfaces, 3 barbs on the cpu block & poorly lapped as well

this is wut i used to lap my wb's... in order, 3 kinds of wet/dry sand paper 600, 1000, & 1500 grit, then i finished up with brasso.

u want to do this on a flat surface... i wet 600 grit sand paper to start... turning the wb often & applying even pressure as i made circular motions. make sure to rinse off the sand paper often while lapping... do the same with 1000 & 1500 grit... i then used an old cotton towel with brasso on it on my kitchen counter to polish the wb... finished up by polishing w/ a clean dry cloth.

this is wut the wb's looked like before i started

Well... later today i got a little unexpected visit from a Intel quality control specialist, he liked the way things were looking so far & said to keep up the good work! this is wut the wb’s looked like after i finished... i also decided to lap the bottom of the hs to my thermaltake tiger that i'll be using on the northbridge... & yes, for all that want to know that is an authentic Oscar Meyer weiner whistle!

very nice job with the mobo insulation and with those block lapping ;) keep it on!
cant wait to see the chilled system on da move :D

thanx oc_nightmare

i found that a serrated butcher knife worked best for cutting foam rubber smooth & straight... just lay the knife on the rubber & gently pull back gentley letting the blade do the work.

then i took a razor & removed the inside portion to inset the wb

i then screwed the top & bottom retaining plates together w/ the foam rubber in the middle

i used aquarium silicone to fill the top cavity around the 3 barbs... i filled this area w/ silicone until it was flush w/ the top of the upper retaining plate, then smoothed it out.

i cut a piece of 1" foam rubber to fit the top, then centered it on top of the wb barbs & pressed down hard on the foam rubber to make an impression of where the barbs were... i then carefully cut away the inner circle of ea of the 3 barb impressions

i knew i needed an air tight seal so i went to our local heat/air supply house & purchased special adhesive today made just for foam rubber... be careful when using this stuff, cause once it dries the foam rubber is permanently bonded & there is no readjusting it or taking it apart.

i placed the foam rubber cap on top of the wb & then painted the outside edges of the cap w/ the rubatex adhesive. i then wrapped the sides of the wb w/ rubatex foam tape pinching the edges of the sides & the cap together as i went, i went around 2 times... it really turned out better than i thought it would.

pic of bottom

i felt like i needed to seal the bottom retaining plate of the wb agonist condensation so i applied liquid electrical tape to the bottom surface... the brush that comes w/ it isn't worth a rat’s butt for doing fine detail work in my opinion so i used a small paint brush to apply it.

i then sealed the middle portion of underside my P4 2.8GHz Prescott cpu w/ clear nail polish, being careful not to get any of the nail polish on the pins.

:toast: :toast:
very nice job on the insulation man
so now you have a kick a$$ chillier and a matching insulation job
i cant wait to see the oc result
good luck

thanx kayl... i've been following yur thread on the dd that u made from a frig as well

:toast:

Rodney, a good friend of mine @ the VA where i work did me a favor today & cut up my Asus hs that was on the northbridge of my mobo... he made the four 1/2" X 1/2" sq hs that u see on the left for the mosfets on my vc... i'll attach these w/ thermal adheasive that i ordered from danger den.

Thanks Rodney! :)

made adjusting knob for the PEV by warming up the end of a piece of tubing & stretching it around the knob of the PEV over the weekend... i'll be using this to adjust the superheat of the chiller once i get it under load.

here it is finished... i drilled a 1" hole in the face of the shroud & put a rubber grommet in it w/ a bolt epoxied in the end.

nice job :toast: :)

You have done such a beautiful job, it was so moving that I started to cry :toast:

Good job. I will need to use that for the next chiller I build , with your permission of course.

ocme YGPM

beautiful insulation OCME, and nice work Chilly1, like always :)

WoW i realy LOVE thta insulation job on the waterblock !!! :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:

thanks for all yur support guys... i got the WB's mounted and double sealed & all the other insulation is finished as soon as i get the defective temp probe replaced i'll be ready to see wut this chiller is capable of doing...

This thing looks awsome.. Chilly1, will you be selling these things? I really would like to buy one, as I could easily place it under my case or next to it, after proper insulation of course. How much would the going price be would you think???

Um you should pm him.

Alright, you don't have to be rude about it.

here are a few pics of the video card insulation

top shot

here is the card in it's final resting place seated in dielectric grease

here is a shot of the back of the MoBo tray... i had some left over seal string that i molded over the exposed ends of the nuts & bolts

here are the WB's before making the connections & insulation

here is everything connected & insulated

i fired that her up & it came on without a hitch... i'll be posting some benches in the next few days...

Beautiful job.

thank ya there chilly1. of course none of this would have been possible without you... for all the countless phone calls & emails & time that you spent making my xtreme chiller dream come true, i would like to thank you my friend!:)

awesome job with that insulation ;)
you two make a great team :D


any loaded temps?
keep it up ocme and chilly1, i envy ya... all i know is to do ugly and heavy chillers not those piece of art like yours ;)

I am going to stickie this thread as it has some very good ideas put forth by ocme for insulation of water blocks and motherboard.

Thanks Chilly1...

Just in case anyone noticed this is for sale in the classifieds

I'm surprised its still there for sale

Most people just dont have the money sitting around to buy it I guess.. its a good chiller.

I know, chily1 makes some great stuff. (and the finish looks great)

yeah he did a nice job.. I wouldnt mind buying a window applique or something with the xs logo.

WE are in the process of a redesign of the logo.. And we may come out with logo gear if everyone is interested....

yeah, like something that you can put on the side of your case like on liquidfrostbyte.

I have a question OCme,

I am also insulating a white water, Can you please tell me how to mount the cpu block,

You have the bolt that go's tru the white water, under the block you have a nut, where do i have to place the rest of the nuts? and the nylon rings etc?

Where are the OC results and final temperatures?

I got away from benching for the time being... I burned up my @ the time $500.00 9800XTvideo card so I pulled the chiller off and went to water cooling. I have a 2.8GHz prescott running @ 3.7GHz & I am happy with that...

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Originally Posted by OCme

I got away from benching for the time being... I burned up my @ the time $500.00 9800XTvideo card so I pulled the chiller off and went to water cooling. I have a 2.8GHz prescott running @ 3.7GHz & I am happy with that...

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Cool :hehe:

Wow, great job. Really nice insulation. Tons of pics, and amazing chiller chilly1 :)

Just a quick question...isn't a 2gal resevoir a bit on the big side? Wouldn't it be more efficient with something more like 1-2 liters?

Also, what is the more efficient heat exchanger:

Tube in Tube?

Tube in Shell?

Plate?

I think tube in tube (eg 3.8" inside 1/2") is more efficient than tube in shell.

First, I'm the owner of LiquidFrostbyte.

And the difference between a bigger or smaller res is just the time it will take to get to the desired temp, once it is there, it will be able to handle a bigger heat load for longer....

skate is right a bigger rez means that it will take longer to pull down. It will give you a longer time to "overdrive" the system like run it over its real capacity by pumpint the liquid fron the rez into the HX and then to the computer. it is already cole and then it will get cooled a little more. And it will give you a buffer to play with for those high power benches.

man that is awesome 0.0

ohhh, the thread necroism! this thread's only about 9 months dead.

lol i seem to have a problem doing that lol

This thing is awesome anyways :P.... Although I dont own it anymore...

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Originally Posted by skate2snow

This thing is awesome anyways :P.... Although I dont own it anymore...

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yep it lives with me now and has been modded to drop coil. details of it's continued existence can be found here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=75254

The spray foam maybe partly soluble in hot alcohol.... It could be the cause of some of the cavitation of the spray foam.