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Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by N17 dizzi
I did stick the IHS back down. I first applied the TIM to the naked CPU, then put it in the socket and put the IHS on top of it without any glue/tape or whatever. Then just make sure when closing the socket everything stays in place.
I feel it makes it easier to mount your cooling and there is less change to destroy your CPU. Also, I think I could only get a very, very small temperature drop if I would go direct die.
Good luck!
Direct die will give you better temps allways. The IHS is like 3mm thick, that's some thermal resistence right there + the loss of thermal transfer due to the IHS beeing concave.
Thanks mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by Conquistador SW
I will let you know how I get on tomorrow. I hope I don't get a perma warranty version!
I certainly will be taking my time like you did, bought 3 kinds of thin blade today. So prepared for this one :)
Don't worry, it's easy to remove with the right tools ;) It took me less than 5mn...
Well are you lucky there :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Eeky NoX
2 of my fingertips were actually bleeding after my 2 hour adventure with this CPU. The blade I had too use was so damn small the blunt end (is that the right word?) cut my fingers. :D
My 3770k was just like yours and it took me 10 min to remove IHS with a Stanley knife.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conquistador SW
Attachment 127174
Attachment 127175
Attachment 127176
From the picture it looks the same indeed. I tried a stanley knife that looks about as thick as the one you used, but I actually broke the edge of the blade several times and it would not split the IHS form the PCB.
But I got it in the end, so it doesn't matter. Did you get a nice temp reduction?
I'll quote my response from another post in case it helps anyone here:
Attachment 127182Quote:
Originally Posted by itznfb
Attachment 127183
You can see in the shot of my CPU that the lid was actually pressed into the PCB with such force that it left an impression in the green coating. Which is why it was so difficult to get a blade under the lid.
Yeah, I saw that post. Maybe I was to scared to push the blade in the PCB and that's why it wouldn't budge.
Again, looking at those pics from the last page, INTC is really missing the boat here and screwing themselves. That TIM is so poorly applied and way too much of it. They would be served very well by just cleaning up the manfacturing process on the application of the TIM. That is just really poor.
RussC
All done, lapped with fresh AS5 (have no liquid metal atm) It has shaved 10c easy. Pics and temps to follow
:)
Cut the top of mine 3770K last nite, but the die height is less than the old intel/ athlon dies I had nice spacers for. Unfortunately its not possible to measure actual thickness with a micrometer. Has anybody actually measured it up at all?
Best guess is its about 20-21/1000" so i might use so 19/1000" cardboard washers I have possibly with double sided cellotape to protect the core.
The IHS is 100/1000"
The die thru to rear componenets is 84/1000 - pcb 42/1000 is 42/1000" for die and rear components which look to be similar thickness so halving it gives the 21/1000" but possibly die is a little thinner?
what I want to know is why the hell arent there ivy bridge shims for sale yet. it has been weeks. surely someone with the proper skills has noticed what is going on. I guess the people who were selling athlon shims grew up and moved on.
there is no difficulty to designing it because the intel integrated heatsink already has all the right measurements built in. making an ivy bridge shim is just a matter of the right person cutting the right material...
I reused the IHS. The socket presses hard on the IHS so its locked tight. I dont have the stuff to mount a Thermalright archon on direct die. You will also need a spacer to protect the die. Else it will be like the dead thunderbirds in the past :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Holy_COW
BTW Some are getting worse results without IHS. It all depends on the cooler and the heatpipes. If you cant hit enough of them you have less cooling capacity.
No it does not. If your die will only hit 1-2 heatpipes instead of all 4-6 it can get worse. You need the correct heatsink for that. H2O is perfect for the JOB.Quote:
Originally Posted by st0ned
I popped the lid on my 3770K, replaced the thermal paste with Coollabratory Ultra and then used PK-1 between the IHS and my Raystorm. The temps are absolutely wonderful. I had too much time between when I bought my 3770K and installed it so I got antsy and popped the lid before I got a chance to record the temps in stock configuration.
Attachment 127317
Thank you guys for sharing, i learned something new today, i thought that the CPU will ruin if i remove the IHS :p:
I really like to try, but my temp. is just fine :up:
We are talking about IB here, if you have either a SB-E or a SB don't do this unless you want to kill your chip ;)
why your cpu-z shows 8 threads (HT) and linx only 4 (HT off)?Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
no wonder the temps are so good
So. this method is not apply for SB-E or SB ?Quote:
Originally Posted by st0ned
Only if you want to kill your chip. Both SB and SB-E have the IHS soldered to the die, what will more likly result in to the chips death upon opening. On another hand IB has a normal ( aka sucky ) thermal paste between IHS and die so you can pop the IHS "safely"
read the thread title. 3770k.Quote:
Originally Posted by koc
Well i don't want to ruin my CPU, but i will tell my friend about this method to try with his IB, thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by st0ned
The temps are actually better with 8 threads. I use 4 threads to get max temps. Prime95 w/ avx using 8 threads actually gives me ~2C better temps too.Quote:
Originally Posted by McDown
The attached screenshot shows this exactly, the max core temps across the board are lower with 8 threads. Everyone knows that 4 threads (or the number of physical cores w/o HT) stresses the processor more in Linx on SB/IB which is evident in the temperatures and the GFlops.
Attachment 127327
It looks like you are using old linpack libraries.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
Is there a safe way to mount direct die for 24/7 use?
This from a bit earlier in the thread looks plenty safe to me.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5102202
To make it even more safe I suggest you improve on the mounting to make sure that the block itself cannot move much after mount with rubber and metal spacers.
However that is with water-cooling, with a heavy air cooler it will require that you do the same as above, but even more carefully.
Yeah. I need some spacers/shims though. Does anyone know what size the spacers need to be?
That is very hard to tell without knowing what you are intending too cool it with and what kind of backplate you have available.
This guy is doing it, he hasn't updated the thread yet though:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=...1&postcount=66
It is obvious I am not. I get 128 GFlops with 4 threads. I just downloaded the lastest Linx this weekend. Please stop making accusations.Quote:
Originally Posted by McDown
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...7&d=1338744602
I am at 4.7ghz (100x47) ( gives me 9.38 in cinebench) the temps when running prime95 with max heat option are 74c, 79c, 79c, 75c (room temp is 31c).
If I remove the lid from the cpu and just replace the paste and put it back on will i for sure get a 10c or so drop in temps? the idle temps are pretty warm about (38, 36,39, 37)
When we turn AC on in the house they drop to about 31-32ish though.
Im using a XSPC Raystorm RX360 Extreme.
I also am using MX-4 paste.. I do have a question though.. i was testing the loop with the plastic cover over the heatsink and i noticed when i removed that plastic cover
it marked the heatsink surface with a dark smudge look.. i used articleaner 1 & 2 to clean it up but could that surface effect temps or no?
Also its my first loop, so i have one more noob question: the part that says "IN" on the block you want the water to flow into that right? if so i have that setup right. I have
the radiator going right into that. Im also using gentle typhoons on the rad (3)
Nothing is 'for sure', but you can expect 5-10c.
i just did it and its very easy to do with a new razorblade.. i used mx4 though and covered the processor and put the ihs back on and my temps are hotter now under load.. i think i used to much paste tho on the ihs so ill remount and report back.
guys after you remove and put the right paste how you stick back the HS ?
sorry the noob question
Sergio
my temps are worse by about 10c now.. is mx4 that bad? how are you guys applying the paste direct to the processor? the first time i just covered it around a lot.. this time i used a very thin layer with spreading and my temps suck for both times.. using pea method on the ihs itself..
Andressergo im just placing the IHS right back over and making sure it aligns when you clamp it down to the socket on the mobo.. its that simple..
one thing i didnt do was remove the black crap from when the IHS was sealed to the pcb.. could i possibly not be getting a good enough contact since i didnt remove the black epoxy?
This is exactly the problem, my temps did not improve until I removed all the black stuff, it was preventing the IHS from making good contact with the cpu.Quote:
Originally Posted by tscompusa
and how u glued back mate ?Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
^ Dont have to, just hold it in place and let hold down mechanism do the rest :)
ok i just removed all the black epoxy crap and loaded alot of mx4 on the cpu direct and put the IHS back on added the pea drop and mounted my water block.. wow!!!!!!!! temps are WAY better. It just dropped 15c.
How much paste did you use on the cpu direct? this time i added a lot.. like a mess.. does it matter how much is put on the cpu directly?Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
I removed all the black epoxy / glue and my temps went 15c cooler now vs what htey were just a bit ago.. still not seeing the temps you are though.
at 4.7ghz running prime95 in small FFT's im seeing 71 79 81 82
what paste are you using and what paste do you recommend? I have a feeling this mx4 is garbage?
EDIT: also its 33c in my room right now..lol id like to go with better paste if its available.. liquid pro or something?
also i notice you got 7 AP-15's? are you using push pull on your rad? right now i have 3 AP-15's in push mode only.
I guess that's why your temps are so badass.
well for my water block for example.. it has plastic washers that go inbetween the bracket and springs.. all you have to really do is load up more plasticQuote:
Originally Posted by itznfb
washers. stack enough to get a good preload and add some thin rubber where the retention bracket touches the pcb and that should do it.. but if there
isnt atleast a 5c drop in temp i think its pointless.. but i imagine there is going to be atleast a 5c drop since just in general the pcb/ cpu will be breathing
better and wont be enclosed in that heat spreader + more direct contact to the cooler.. id imagine atleast 5c drop or more.
no glue ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
You dont need any glue. Just make sure you scrape the remainder black epoxy stuff off both the pcb (green board) and the IHS itself and then apply your paste on the cpu then lay the pcb/cpu in your motherboard..Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
use the part where the notch is on the pcb to know its aligned in there properly.. just gently lay it in and it will set itself in place..
then lay the shell (IHS) on top of the pcb and while holding the IHS to make sure it doesnt slide as you latch the retention bracket down lock it into place.. you want to use the old markings that were on the pcb to
know you have the IHS where it should be.. its really easy! i just did it 4 times now screwing with the paste the way i apply it..
like the other guy mentioned, just make sure all the black stuff is off or you'll be wasting your time like i was.. my temps did not get any better until i removed that black stuff.
Its really easy to do this mod im actually very surprised.. if you buy a brand new razorblade at the store you can literally get it off in 5min. id say difficulty level is 3 / 10.
I used a small amount of coollabratory liquid ultra (a thin layer on the cpu die) between the IHS and the cpu die. I used PK-1 between my waterblock and the IHS.Quote:
Originally Posted by tscompusa
My water loop is a quad and a triple radiator in series with 7 ap-15s in pull configuration with a dual mcp355 setup. It's a little excessive but it gives exceptional temps on the cpu and gpu. Also, my room temperature is ~23C.
Would using a heat gun to maybe loosen the adhesive black gunk harm the cpu?
Its not really an adhesive, its more of a silicone (if I had to guess). Heating it up will not help pop the top, once the lid is off the stuff is easy to scrap off though.
wow your setup sounds pretty crazy lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
i just loop my cpu for now. its my first time using water and so far its really nice. way better then air.
i am going to change the mx-4 for the liquid pro since it has a much higher thermal conductivity and will more so act like solder in between
the IHS and processor die. then ill get the same paste you mentioned since it seems to be the best among the rest. (the PK-1)
PK-1 has been the best thermal paste I have ever used in ease of use and performance. Much much better than MX-4. MX-3 comes close to PK-1 in my experiences though.
thanks a lot for your explanation same to you splave !Quote:
Originally Posted by tscompusa
Nice. Looking forward to seeing how it responds on my setup. Am i right in thinking that the Liquid pro inbetween the heat spreader and the cpu die is going to be way better temps then the mx-4 due to the thermal conductivity that this liquid stuff has? It seems like its as close to solder as you can get without actually soldering.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
No problem. Glad i could help!Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Btw guys I did some tests with the EK Supreme-HF using direct die cooling you can see them here.
1.36v ,4.8Ghz ~60ºC runing prime.
nice results. the different mounts are just trying different pressure on the die?Quote:
Originally Posted by st0ned
i am gonna try to do direct today with mx-4 and will report back.
as long as my raystorm block allows me to get a good enough contact.
Liquid Pro applied in die and IHS 4.5ghz and the temps dropped to 10 ° C compared to having mx-4.
Now I have 3770k - 4.5Ghz @ 1.16V with 58 º C full linx AVX
I just did direct die with mx-4. keep in mind this is directly after placing the mx-4 on the die and no time to cure..
when i let mx-4 cure about 24-48hrs the temps drop another 2-3c atleast from my experience.
Ambient temps are 31C
Using the Raystorm water block, its so easy to get good / safe tension on the cpu without using the IHS.
I am not sure if i can tighten it down more or not but i got a 7-8C drop from mx-4 + mx-4 vs now direct die + mx-4 (no heat spreader).
Voltage is currently set high at 1.335
Running prime95 with Large FFT
This is with 48 hrs of the mx-4 being placed (30c ambient temps)
http://www.myevolution8.net/_images/cpu/mx-4.jpg
This is with 5minutes of the mx-4 being placed (31c ambient temps)
http://www.myevolution8.net/_images/...direct die.jpg
http://www.myevolution8.net/_images/cpu/direct.jpg
you never tried direct die yet? im curious what id get vs liquid pro with IHS vs direct die right now.. im thinking i wont see any improvement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darknight
But if I put the liquid pro inbetween the die and waterblock i bet id go down even more.. but i dont know if i want that liquid pro stuff touching
my waterblock after what i read about it.. i dont want to have to lap my waterblock anytime soon.
btw how are you able to run so low of voltage? i tried 1.225 and got the blue screen.
I just ran 1.280 just now and seems ok though. temps went much lower also.
http://www.myevolution8.net/_images/cpu/vcore1.jpg
decided to do it and man awesome almost 10C
see the after and before
almost 10C !!!
http://i.imgur.com/6kyHN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6lqol.jpg
BEFORE
http://i.imgur.com/ryBck.jpg )
http://i.imgur.com/zpZLC.png
AFTER
http://i.imgur.com/NKYSP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BWbHS.png
well done sergio :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
awesome mem clock 2600MHz on P67
here its what im more suprised before HS removal and change paste i launched prime at that volts and i got 94C look now
http://i.imgur.com/yzLp6.jpg
*thanks a lot owi solid board huh ?
Hey Guys just thought id update.. This should help some people out.
After trying direct die with mx4 without the IHS i decided to just now switch to Liquid Pro inbetween the die and IHS and PK1 inbetween the heatsink and IHS
And wow.. big difference! Do not do direct die on the CPU if you have the same water block I do.. it must be concave and bowed it doesnt cool for crap..
I Just dropped another 10c+ across the board.. (and paste is not cured yet for sure - been only 10min)
Id like to thank Babalouj for the recommendation with this method .. it is the best method by far!
And thanks to everyone else for finding this issue with the cooling. Now my water cooling setup is actually working the way it should be.
Ambient temps are only 2c different from before (28c) / with higher vcore also. 1.3v
http://www.myevolution8.net/_images/...uidpro+pk1.jpg
Which paste have you used and how?Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
I mean with or without IHS?
Hi all :),
I just got round to pulling the IHS off my 3570K
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...570KIHSOff.png
I got -6oC under prime load just replacing the Intel TIM with Arctic Silver 5 between Die & IHS & IHS to Antec 620. I have a few more pastes including some Liquid Ultra to try later.
This drop is not quite so much as most however my IHS was fitted very close to the PCB & I needed to break a razor up to get thin enough blades to get in there. Even with the razor blades it was still a struggle.
Hey !Quote:
Originally Posted by emertX
i used artic MX2 and its with IHS on, some ppl dont put it
Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
C-N why u used artic 5 :/ use MX4 or MX2 will drop much more
I came home from the Pub feeling all brave & thought right lets get this done so jumped right in there only to later find out I didnt have any MX2/4.....Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
I'm going to try PK-1 or the Gelid stuff next then try some Liquid Ultra. When I'm happy I plan on re-fitting the IHS.
ahahahaha lol well next time come brave but use a good paste lolQuote:
Originally Posted by C-N
Nice! Now you are getting almost the same temps as me with my exact same setup (liquid pro/ultra, pk1, and raystorm). I also found that the raystorm does not like direct die contact because of the bow.Quote:
Originally Posted by tscompusa
I had been debating between SB & IB due to the heat issues with IB. Thanks to the OP and everyone else for sharing great information. I will get the 3770k.
Most of the pastes get dry and curing under the IHS very soon after the application and the results getting close to the original TIM.
Okay, I'm trying yo do this, hopefully to get atleast even temp distribution across all 4 cores. However, I can't seem to get the blade in anywhere NEAR as easy as you did in the video, am I doing something wrong here?
Edit: got it :)
That is not true, most of the higher end TIMs will last at least a couple of years before "drying out". Also, Liquid pro/ultra will not dry out period.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukundur
wow, I used AS5 that i've had for a good 4+ years (IHS and heatsink) and got waaaay better temps, normally i'd be in the 70-76 range by now (about 10 mins into prime) and it's sitting at around 60, 66 max. still have core 0 running way cooler than the rest, but i guess he's just a cool guy
update: 30 minutes in, and 70* is the max, compared to a usual 78-81
intel should fix this
In the video, I'm watching that blade and PcCI2iminal's fingers as he's slicing through the IC, thinking: "oh gawd I hope that blade just doesn't slip or snap". That could go right into your hands/fingers.
Yes, but not when pastes are between the die and the IHS with a poor contact between them. I already tried МХ-3, NТ-H1 and TR CFIII. Beginnings results were very good, but within 1-2 weeks temperauturite dramatically increase, especially the last core. I never tried Liquid pro/ultra. Let other users who used silver paste to share how long the results are preserved in this case.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
I've been using a LM paste for over a week. Temperature is what they used to be.
Why would this make a difference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukundur
It sounds like you have poor contact between the IHS and the core because you did not scrape the black silicone/sealant off the perimeter of the chip and IHS. My temps have not changed since I first applied my liquid ultra.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukundur
You assumed that I might have tried several types of paste without being completely removed the black silicone!? The liquid metal probably do, but I have no where to buy now.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
since i use MX4 or MX2 month after i take the block out and paste never dry its no so liquified as new but never what i saw on intel IHS that i really crap looked like cement or poxipol horrible
I did not intend to offend. You are just the first case I have heard of the temps slowly getting worse after replacing the stock Intel TIM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukundur
dont waste your time with paste inbetween the IHS and die.. go straight to liquid pro/ultra.. it is an easy 10c drop over paste.. order it internationally if you have to.. its worth the performance increase.
Yep. ya I had the ac on in the house when i did that last test and now i have the AC off and i did a stress test and temps are almost the same and its atleast another 3c hotter in the room now .. and i noticed the cores are stabilized more temp wise.. they are more reading similar vs before they were kind of different.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
Those of you folks that have struggled to remove the IHS because there is so little clearance between it and the circuit board..... I wonder if you also experience worse performance than perhaps expected once the paste has been replaced?
This made me wonder if there may be some advantage in "lapping" the edges of the IHS that were such a close fit to relieve any pressure that may be stopping the die and IHS mating perfectly.
I am thinking that once the die and IHS have been cleaned and are ready to go to insert a feeler gauge to measure the gap whilst holding the assembly finger tight. ensuring a certain clearance might allow certain IHS's that needed lapping because of their high edges to drop the edges closer to the die circuit board under the pressure of the mount thus flattening the contact area with the block/heatsink too
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
i dont really get your point oldchap i got 10C less and better peformance now i can memtest my mem for 2 hours seeing barely 60 when before it was 70C or 72C or whatever test, i also got vcore down for my daily 5GHz
currently this are my settings i tighten up on the MIVE P67 the more i could i can go 2600 mem but will have to increase CL cauz its the board limiting
5GHz 1,488 loaded Team X 2400 9-11-11-28 1T tRFC 1,41 stock vdimm
and this is the part i like most when i had the 2600K at 5GHz HT at 1,425 loaded with mem at 2133 9-11-9-27 1T i have same score on windows than now
this is my 3570K score
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1733/puntajewin.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I had a bit of a pain getting the IHS off, but i think it was more of an angle of approach error. I made an ever so slight lift in the blade, and it went thru like butter. got a good 10* drop, it's not that the contact is bad, it's the TIM is bad.
I hope that I am the only.Quote:
Originally Posted by babalouj
damn and i thought my 7.5 was good lol. my graphics card was the weak link at 7.5 then the processor a 7.8 then the rest 7.9Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
what oldchap is trying to say is he thinks that the IHS vary in size.. he thinks that because some are harder to remove then others that they are not putting as much pressure on the cpu die as others.. so he thinks you should measure the clearance with a feeler gauge to find out the exact height the IHS is sitting inbetween the pcb..
not a bad idea, but i would be surprised if they varied enough to matter.. that would be crappy manufacturing by intel.. then again this cheap TIM is not cool either (literally LOL), so who knows!
I was one of those people complaining about how difficult it was to get anything between the IHS and PCB.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
I did nothing except scrape of that black glue and this was the result using liquid pro and mx4:
(supreme HF/ PA120.3 / scythe GT 1000rpm / 18C ambient)
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/...dded3770k2.png
So for me lapping of the edges was not needed.
Ended up Direct Die cooling with Swiftech Apogee HD block and MX-4, about 10c better and that was with going from a 360 rad back to a 240 for case compatibility as well, so probably better by 12-15c.
Taking the socket clampdown mechanism and backing plate out made the motherboard flex a bit more, but straightened up a bit when fitting into the case :) Just added some plastic washers to the thickness of the IHS and some foam pads for some mounting protection.
Working on 5ghz staibilty at 1.45v 3770k, HT off as thats just way to hot with it on :) cores ranging from 65-76 running OCCT core0 is allways about 10c cooler, maybe the position or surround modules, not sure if uneven pressure is like to cause that, but possible I guess
Hey guys,
Is there a consensus about which TIM works for putting between the die and the IHS? I put Noctua NT-H1 on both the die and the IHS and my temps dropped by 10C at first, but a day later they increased by 10C over stock!
The NT-H1 worked very well between the IHS and the HSF, so I'm thinking of putting the Arctic Silver 5 between the die and the IHS for now. Meanwhile, I'll order Liquid Ultra, I just don't want to wait a week until I can use my PC again :)
Also, I might be able to get some Shin-Etsu, is this a good option?
Thanks!
Shin Etsu is very good.
lol yes it scores real niceQuote:
Originally Posted by tscompusa
i took 3 and all where th same exactly and so easy, maybe it was just luck, and i also think that is wise keeping the IHS over and dont go die alone
cheers !
Sergio
I would, by my experience get a liquid metal based TIM.
Any other brands to suggest other than Coollaboratory?Quote:
Originally Posted by st0ned
i did on 3 chips used MX2 and all dropped 9 to 10C, i think they have so so bad contact from factory that using a normal good paste will do the jobQuote:
Originally Posted by ToxicBug
I'm assuming its performance is still good? I was expecting the same thing from the NT-H1, it really disappointed me :/Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Yes, I'm using the Phobya LM. I tryed PK-1 1st and it lost performance in 1 or 2 days, then I used a good chunk of PK-1 and it held the same performance for a week when I end up replacing it. Problem is even though I had good performance core-wise I had problems on the memory controller ( It wouldn't do 2400 Mhz ) and once removed you could clearly see the imprints from where the cores, memory controller, etc stood on the die . I'll try to see If I had any photos of this.Quote:
Originally Posted by ToxicBug
If I had to guess I think points of big heat influx such as cores and memory controller being where most of the heat is on the die will generate a big amount of heat / area thus drying normal TIM much faster then what it was supposed. I did a final mount using the LM TIM and I didn't have a problem ever since.
I just wanna state this is just my opinion based on the experience I had, I'm sure others might have had it different :)
ya of courseQuote:
Originally Posted by ToxicBug
http://skinneelabs.com/2011-thermal-...-comparison/2/
enjoy !
are u sure that this aint cause of using direct die mate ? i been using it since 3 weeks now and not a single degree less just stays exact the same 9 to 10C less never went up again and im firing up prime 27.7 avx at 1,485 vcore :)Quote:
Originally Posted by st0ned
i have the P8Z77-I DELUXE and I5 3570K on the way.
it will be here in a few days so i been reading and reading
yea these chips run hot!
yea if you do this mod they will run cooler!
but the real question is?
void the inel warranty for an extra 100 MHz gain?
try re-selling it on ebay like that?
ok now here is a legit Q
a stock IB cpu IHS and stock TIM definately runs about 10C hotter then SB cpus but that does NOT mean it makes your case hotter on the inside.
ex:
1 x 100 watt bulb = 1 x 100F
3 x 50 watt bulb = 3 x 50F but since you have more it will make your case temps hotter then the 1 x 100F bulb
the surface area of the IB is smaller then SB so when IB = 75C vs SB 65C the SB could make your case hotter
so im asking what is the real purpose of this mod?
is it really just for the 100MHz gain and to void warranty and have trouble selling on ebay later?
tdbone1: Purpose? Probably to get temps and max overclock closer to that of SB, which were gimped by worse stock TIM between core & IHS. According to many that is more of a reason for worse temps/overclock (at least without throttling and with not extreme cooling solutions) then that of smaller core/more concentrated heat flow/more current leakage when overvolted & overclocked a lot. I'm guessing frustration comes mostly from high expectations from IB before it's launch. If it were at least as good of overclocker as SB without things like improving TIM, no one would bother. But with state of things being as is people wish to "fix" "intel wrong decisions" with this, relatively simple mod. As for warranty .. very few from overclockers do care .. and from what i've heard, few people online even sell pre-moded IB cpu-s with replaced TIM for some price premium :)
max temps on IB go upto 105C so running at 75-80C is nothingQuote:
Originally Posted by churchy
my video cards i have had in the past would get upto 90C (i had 5870`s in crossfire) with not even a 1/4" space between them and everyone runs those like that still
gtx 480s ran in 90`s too
this is not uncommon to run that hot (as long as its designed for it)
to my understanding the IB is designed to run that hot
so my Q again is:
does it make the case temps higher running at 75-80C then SB running at 65-70C?
see i dont think so because the SB had more of a surface area (meaning it puts out a larger heat pattern)
ok so why do this mod?
it only gives 100MHz extra to void the warranty, risk damaging a nice cpu and resell value DROPS on ebay im sure.
im really thinking this mod is pointless if it dont bennifit anything?
let me know where im wrong at.