hell yes! :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
then MARRY her! you found the only one who is! :rofl::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
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hell yes! :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
then MARRY her! you found the only one who is! :rofl::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
Sorry guys I couldn't get a board yet but I have a question though: are you using CPU backplate?
Also, can you show me the clearance between the block and inductors (six grey rectangles in parallel) on this photo?
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9432/mb20.jpg
Best Regards,
Niko
Thanks for the suggestion psygnosi, your success gives me good vibes :) think I'm gonna pull the thicker kapton tape now and basically insulate every mm2 of the block again (except what's in contact with NB/mosfets that is :p: )Quote:
Originally Posted by psygnosi
Her logic, as I said, is sound. Therefore she's not the marrying kind ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Creekin
No worries :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
I am using a CPU backplate, this one:
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...-cpu-1366.html
I found it works much better than the stock Supreme HF block backplate :)
Will take pics of the clearance tomorrow, at the moment I'm not @ home.
I would check continuity (to gnd, +5v,+12 ect). on everything that is metal on the board. The CPU block bolts, the aluminum caps, ect. Just to know what is what, and what might cause problems if the block touched it. You said you had a meter, why aren't you checking stuff? :P
Haahahhahahahahah! Because I killed another board before I even got to start checking? :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
Feeling slightly apprehensive at the moment ;)
Tomorrow after work I will give it a go, right now I'm lounging on the sofa with my gf which has shorted anything... yet :p:
has anyone plumbed one of these boards with tubing yet?
im paranoid im going to need 45 degree fittings on everything :(
good luck MrToad!
I've plumbed it indeed, and depending on what tubing you're using and how you plumb the block you'll indeed need 90 degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
Using Tygon Silver 3/4" OD I couldn't make a bend tight enough to connect the CPU block outlet to the MB block. Maybe with a thinner walled/smaller ID tube is possible.
Personally I'm using the BP "swept" elbows (the articulated ones, formed by two 45 degree pieces) and it had little impact on the overall flow. Went from 1.48 gpm to 1.40 gpm after plumbing the block. This is my setup:
XSPC Laing DDC BayRes One + DDC 3.25 > EK Supreme HF > EK R3Gene Block > EK FC5870 + EK FC5870 (Parallel flow) > DDC 3.25 > Mo-Ra3 > Flow meter > Res
Bear in mind that there are 5 x BP 90 degrees and 2 x BP 45 degrees and the flow meter in this loop. Probably the flow meter has a higher pressure drop than the MB block :D
I'd be much more concerned about the MoRa for flow drop, but two DDC's should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
I was hoping you might have a pic?
Im going to be using a Koolance CPU 360, and 3/8"-5/8" tubing. Thing Im worried about is the roof clearance, as this is going in a Lian Li V352.
No pics at the moment... But there are pics further back on the thread (courtesy of Psygnosi) of the MB with the block mounted.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
Once I have the whole conundrum sorted I'll post some pics... I was going to put a worklog, but seeing how a little nightmare this is turning to be I never got around to do it...
OK, is definitely the mosfet part of the block the one creating the issue... If I apply pressure in the centre of the area is all good and dandy, the moment I apply pressure on the extremes all goes pete tong...
Have probed with the fluke (in continuity mode) and I can't find a derivation anywhere (tried with the header adjacent to the block first then the main ATX header).
The block is also completely insulated except the areas that have thermal tape or the NB.
I've noticed that the stock mosfet cooler has 0.5mm tape towards the exterior and 1 mm tape in the centre, will try to source some more 0.5mm tape (snow permitting) and try that way...
Well if that's what the stock cooler has, I'd be doing that too. Maybe asus changed the board after the ek block was designed, happens all the time.
Is there anything on your board to indicate it's a different revision?
I'll check my board when I get home.
Can you post a picture of the MOSFET backplate you are using. Is it something like this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...81&postcount=1
the mosfet backplate is very similar, and is included with the EK waterblock.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenArrow
ive uploaded several photos to my worklog including this waterblock, should anyone be interested.
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...&postcount=210
I looked through your nice build log.. Do you have a picture of the MOSFET backplate installed on the mobo?Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
sorry, i think that might have been the only thing i didnt take a shot of.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenArrow
ok, i have it booted back at my desktop, everything seems to be running fine. temps seemed normal in the bios, i'll install everest now to see if it can monitor my temperatures in windows.
**everest reports a motherboard temperature of 38-39degrees. must be working i'd say, i put it under a lin-x run.
@ zeropluszero
Just a couple of questions if you don't mind :)
Did the stock MOSFET cooler also have two different thermal tapes? Grey 0.5 mm on both sides and pink 1.0 mm on the centre.
Also would you mind taking a close-up picture of the label on the top edge of the board? Is a narrow barcoded label with the model, revision and serial no. on it...
I'm still trying to figure out why everyone's fine and I've gone through two blocks and several boards with no joy...
@MrToad
since on MObo killed northbridge, maybe You could thoroughly check NB MOSFETs (between NB and IO ports). as I understand from pix WB should have contact with 'em?
Check the pics in that link above mr toad. I used everything as ek said, except i added on an extra 0.5mm (so 1.5mm) on the middle part of the I/O mosfet. My stock heatsink also had the thinner grey and thicker pink pads.
I'll check serial when I get home later today, but yeh, my board seems to be working fine.
Chipset block was the hardest to install I've ever had to do- classified block was a breeze, and my old bitspower rampage formula and 780i's were difficult until this. Considering there's only 4 screws.
Seems kinda odd that the original heatsink has a thicker middle section of thermal pads. Either there is differences in the heights of the components, or they did that cause their heatsink might bow when tightening it.
If it is cause of the components being different levels, then using the same thickness thermal pads throughout would have either 2 effects:
1) not enough pressure on the middle section
or
2) too much pressure on the outer section (if you tighten it too much so the middle section has good contact).
someone needs to look into that and figure out the reasoning, and if the components are different levels.
Since Zeropluszero got the Plexi/Nickel working with pics, here is mine with the Acetal/Nickel working plus the EK Southbridge also. Sorry for the blurry pics. Still waiting for the waterblock for my 6870 which should be here this next week. Anyway here ya go!
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...nosi/Gene1.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...nosi/gene2.jpg
and the southbridge:
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...nosi/gene3.jpg
Overall effect:
Remember I'm on a tropical island so it gets hot here, Normally my Northbridge would be 65c and southbridge 55c
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/desktop1.jpg
Had it working.
My boards second PCIe16 slot stopped working. Thinking perhaps I'd shorted it by tightening too hard, I loosened the screws around the X58 chip.
Turned it on, flash, boards fried.
Took the chipset block off, sure enough, lower corner of the X58 chip has a burn mark.
RMA time.
Anyone want to buy a block? Used once with distilled.
I'm sorry about that :(Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
Personally I'm taking a "break" (no pun intended) from the build, waiting to see if Tiborr can shed some light over this.
Hi Zeropluszero,
Sorry about that as well. I'm not touching both my systems since both are working with the Nickel/Acetal R3Gene blocks. I'm leaving them alone and not pulling out the boards anymore. I've tested both my PCI-E slots on both boards and they are both working fine. But now I'm too scared to touch it anymore. Here is a pic of the R3Gene bios Monitoring the temps(Artic Silver 3 has not set in yet):
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/P1010065.jpg
Psygnosi:eek:
dont apologise guys, i know its a risk like anything else. ive copped a brand new 4870 when they first came out and i fried that too. :banana::banana::banana::banana: happens.
i dont think i'll :banana::banana::banana::banana: around with the block if/when i get a new board, i guess i'll just get a better fan for the front of my V352 and hope that some of the air makes it over the chipset.
that's a serious post above for anyone that cares, Nickel Plexi block Im looking to sell, happy to sort out postage worldwide.
As much as I dislike giving up in this particular occasion I have to accept defeat and move on.
Surviving R3G stays on air for a different build (I'm putting together a less demanding system for my partner's family), block goes to the cupboard of unused parts and now I'm looking to the R3E for this build. It's going to be a bit of a tight squeeze (I never planned to use a full ATX board for this build) but don't like the rest of X58 Micro-ATX boards...
Sorry to hear that Mr. Toad,
Hopefully you have better luck with the R3E waterblocks.
Psygnosi:)
One last observation... I get continuity between the inductors to the left of the socket and the surface of the NB... Is that normal?
This happens both in the dead board and in the non-dead one...
I'd have thought that the surface of the NB would be non-conductive?
http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/h...i/IMG_0128.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by BrokenArrow
http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/h...i/IMG_0126.jpg
its not installed pic but just a backplate, sorry for the bad quality pic
hi guys, i have to share something,
in my case, i just cover all those chokes that shown in the picture the red and the blue rectangle box
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_3CUeOKFhLdY/TP.../s640/mb20.jpg
i wreck 3 genes just to figure out this thing, and also be careful tightening the block the blue rectangular choke might crash
--
and here's my rig 100% after wrecking up 3 genes :)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3CUeOKFhLdY/TP...916%5B1%5D.JPG
Awesome! Now we are getting somewhere! Looks great Februariusx! Love the colors you chose for your tubing!
Psygnosi:up:
Seems this block has a major design flaw. at least 3 people have killed boards in this thread... 2 of them 3 times each. I think I will stay away.
If the block touches, or comes close to those chokes, and that is how it is shorting, then it should have areas in the block cut out for the chokes for better clearance.
any marks on that chokes? burnings or smth? i thought that problem in NB power circuit (blue rectangle) but i blame MOSFETs (in my mind)...
PS: love the color scheme of LC loop. must be pumping blood :) and i notice tubing going out of the case: more rads outside?
I'm thinking the same thing. I cancelled my order for the R3G + EK block.
I hope EK looks into this and releases a v2 of the EK-FB R3G because I really like the looks of the board & block.
Just bought the motherboard today. I will have a look into it. :up:
Thanks for that... Hopefully your conclusion won't be: PEBKAC :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
actually the choke will break some a little or some cracks, the chokes house was made of metal, this tiny powder piece can able shorts the mosfet belows it , you notice that while you tightening the block you heard some cracking sounds thats the choke breaking it housing apart
---
here the exact idea, but it couldn't accommodate dual hdd for raid 0 setup, so i remove 140 rads at the bottome
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_3CUeOKFhLdY/TN.../DSCF5626s.JPG
That's a shame. I really like this boards. I also really like matx form factor. I really hope this won't cause EK to not produce fc blocks for future enthusiast matx boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
Good luck to you all...
@februariusx
5x120 sections for cpu+mobo loop :shocked:
is there MORA-3 "in cart" when You'll add GPU block:ROTF:
nice build
Waiting for info on that one tiborrr...
Got my R3G now and also ordered the block already and hope everything is ok with this ek stuff..
Picking up the board tomorrow during my lunch time, I hope they will have it in stock by then.
We'll take an extensive look at it! :up:
@ februariusx, what case is that?
it was antec mini p180Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Tiborr, do you work at EK waterblocks?
I'm going to be checking back, I think if we find that there is a problem with the block, then EK's customers with this block should be eligable to return the block for a replacement.
@zero: Yes.
I have finally picked up the board today, hooray. It took the retailer 3 days to move the board 50km across country. Sadly I had no time to test it today, my working hours are over :D
Hi there,
I'm new in the forum, even if I read XstremSystems' post for years now.
As I was looking for infos concerning this "semi" full MB waterblock, I just saw this thread, but to late I would say, as I already bought the WB, and ...
... burnt my mobo.
There is definitely something wrong with it. First, one of the components (like in thread #52) is bent. Then a short circuit append with sparks on the NB.
I did'nt made a pic of the WB, but there is some burns on the NB area.
So, I just replace all my MIPS waterblocks with a new MB.
Oh, I was forgotting something, I went to a wellknown watercooling shop here in Paris, and asked for the problem customers might have had with the block. The seller told me there was a lot of return of this block.
everyone else just get an email from Gregor from EK?
Nope, not me... What's up?Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
PM me your email, i'll forward the email i recieved to you, so you can reply to them.
Done :)Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
Although I don't get any pleasure out of you bricking your board (or anyone else that posted issues on this thread for that matter) I do feel certain sense of relief...Quote:
Originally Posted by Olivier75009
I was feeling really inadequate and incompetent after bricking three boards...
I'm sorry for your troubles though.
My computer will not boot after I installed the EK waterblock. But if I start the computer without the 8-pin 12V ATX plug the computer starts.
Well, maybe not the motherboard is broken, but it may just be the waterblock that shorting without destroying anything.
I'll check on the backplate if it hit anything on the back. And I'll try to start the computer with the original cooler to be on the safe side if the motherboard is broken.
I have not seen any burn marks on the motherboard ....... yet :) I have electrical tape on the side of the waterblock.
The waterblock had also become green at the hole where the 8-pin connector is, it may have something to do with a short circuit?
I had to disassemble the block and clean. The Green were sticky and it also smell. When I got it clean it was a dark surface below, a little rust-colored.
Says later how it went
My first board behaved exactly the same. Upon removal of the block, and with the stock cooling fitted, worked fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by saxin
However I did notice that the (is it ceramic?) insulation of the NB it was somehow damaged, it had small "spots" all over, but this didn't seem to affect the board with the stock cooling on.
my first attempt i saw boomerang flash came from north bridge
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_3CUeOKFhLdY/TM...0/DSCF5373.JPG
then i closely observe the standoff then i found that i missing 2x 2.1mm stand off so i request to Gregor for something replacement but it take so long so i made my own standoffs
but second mobo still dosent me give me luck, i accidentally crush the chokes nearly at the northbridge,
the third attempt is the great success, it is notify that the thermal pads are to wide to the mosfets, but it gives protection to the shorting feets of chokes nearly to cpu (red rectangle),
but the day i succeed the replacement standoff came by...
then i get my powertool sander and sand a little bit to the said mosfets near at northbridge (blue rectangle).
i put some space around .5 mm - 1 mm to the left seeing from cpu slot, because the space to the right are too enough no need for sanding
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_3CUeOKFhLdY/TP.../s640/mb20.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxin
my second attempt happen exactly like yours, i think the mobo wraps, have you notice some fall off debris from BGA of your NB and some little piece of break from housing of choke near to northbridge
it's TRULY better than lost!!!
some reply from EK waterblocks would be nice. i heard that Eddy very helpful with their product's problems but in this thread 7 kills on 7 pages and no reply from producer :( it's nice to receive personal e-mails but not everyone already buy the block and some feedback would be nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by februariusx
I can hear a sparkle sound round 8-pin ATX connector. Nothing is burned around it.
I believe you guys need to isolate this small section as well. Marked in green. Why do I feel like an EK Beta tester?!?
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...gnosi/mb20.jpg
psygnosi:(
You guys should all stop using these blocks! Unless you like losing $200+ motherboards :p:
It's clear there is a design flaw. People who have no problems, don't necessarily have no problems. They probably just lucked out... w/ unmounts and mounts, odds are they will blow their boards up too.
I just so happen to stumble upon this thread while in a process of gathering all the parts so... I got lucky I guess, but I'm stuck with a block though :p:
I'm just eagerly waiting for news from EK.
At the moment I'm suspended in limbo, with the computer taken apart and bits all over the house... And with Christmas looming in the horizon I'm not sure it will be back together before the new year...
Hi guys,
we have mounted the EK-FB-R3Gene water block on the motherboard for over ten times. The board refused to post on five attempts, therefor we recommend:
DO NOT TRY INSTALLING the EK-FB-R3Gene water block until further notice!
We will probably need a few days to find the reason for such behavior and to find the workaround for the problem.
Best Regards,
Niko :up:
At least EK acknowledges the problem right away, still a shame that this wasn't caught before....Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
Tell me about it :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by schoolslave
Excellent news frankly.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
i look forward to hearing what can be done.
tiborr: I'd also check with another board. I wonder if these issues hadn't slipped through initial Q&A tests because of some new revision with a little bit differently placed chips then first revisions of board you were initially projecting block for?
I appreciate that you can't wave a magic wand and come up with a workaround, but can you be a bit more specific please?Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
I've been trying to get this computer up and running for a month now, with no little cost both in money and patience, I'd really like to know if I'm likely to have a tidy flat and a working computer by Christmas or not...
I know that I could always put it back on air, but every time I take apart and put together the computer I risk damaging something else...
I apologize if I sound pushy (or whiney even) but I'm really starting to feel the pressure...
i think voodoo practice or some necromancy skills serves better in resurrecting dead boards... ZOMBOboards is coming :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
Any updates tiborrr?
In a bit, board/block assembly is undergoing testing!
Testing is not yet complete and the results are inconclusive. We tried many custom and alternative mounting methods but to no avail - sometimes the board works and sometimes it trips the protection and refuses to boot. We believe there might be some issues with the ASUS Rampage III Gene circuit board design as it has little to zero tolerance to PCB bending. But the strange part is that many boards works normally with the EK-FB R3Gene block, but there are also few boards that just refuse to work. Therefore we cannot guarantee our EK-FB R3Gene block to work properly on any Rampage III Gene board.
So, our current conclusions are:
- if you have no problems with the EK-FB R3Gene waterblock, feel free to use it without any restrictions
- if you have issues with the block, return the block for refund to your seller
- we will still try to find a solution to this problem, but will probably need much more time
Best Regards,
Niko for the EK R&D team
Tiborr/Niko,Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
My R3E Gene waterblock was purchased directly from EK's website.
how may i go about returning the waterblock for a refund?
my email was zeropluszero@gmail.com.
zeropluszero,
Gregor has already replied you with the details via e-mail.
Regards,
Niko
i see that now. thank you very much. i look forward to my next EK product.
Mine was purchased from Scan here in the UK.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
Are the suppliers aware of this? Don't want to ask for an RMA and look like a pillock :p:
Thank you for your understanding, zeropluszero. :)
"Those Who Never do Anything, Never Make Mistakes"
@Mr.Toad:
Yes, your supplier is aware of that, do not worry! :up:
thank you.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
I prefer "even monkeys fall from trees" :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
Either way no big deal, if you insist on mixing huge chunks of copper and water with sensitive electronics sooner or later you end up killing things :D :p:
Will give them a call today then :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
I have a "generic" NB block and I got a Mosfet block for another source, will try with that, and if the board is still not happy I'll go for a completely different board altogether...
Well I guess I have one of the few that work. I took the block out and remounted it more than 10 times and all worked flawlessly. Finally got GPU Block from Peformance PC. Here is a pic of the progress so far:
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...r3genework.jpg
PS: Excuse the wiring will fix that later after the primochill lrt black tubing arrives.
psygnosi:D
hey i will have a block at home tomorrow. The question is: should I give it a try?
Let's say the block makes my board not to boot. Can I replace it with stock cooling then and run it without problems or the block will :banana::banana::banana::banana: up my board and I will need to RMA it? :/
I don't want to make my board unusable, but on the other hand I'd like to try if a block works. If that will lead me to breaking my board I won't probably even try...
@pysgnosi:
Pleased to hear that! :up: Nice setup, your DIMM modules are lined up like soldiers! :D
@totalz:
Classic symptom is that the board will refuse to post. If it does that, unmount the water block and use the stock cooler. Simple as that.
Wheter you wish to install it or not it is up to you, the EK recommendations are stated in post #170 :up:
Yeah, but.. maybe I didn't make it clear in last post. I'm asking if mounting a block can permanently break my board?Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
We cannot guarantee EK-FB R3Gene waterblock to work with your Rampage III Gene motherboard any more. It is up to you wheter you wish to give it a try or not. There were some people in this thread reporting to have killed the board, so chances of this happening do exist, but are very slim. You can try or send the board back to your seller for a refund.
Best Regards,
N. :up:
Quick question... The encapsulation in the NB of the last surviving board is no longer sound, I was wondering how much impact on temperatures would it have using a 0.5mm 6W/mk thermal pad instead of thermal paste...
I'm worried that next time I put a block on it it will go bust...
MrToad, quite a lot, that may very well be compared to a 0.5mm thick layer of MX-2 TIM.
Which defeats the object of watercooling...Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
Oh well, I'll give it a shot tomorrow, if it goes bang... well, it goes bang...
Thanks for the answer tho :)
With my block and board, it was making some serious flexing going on.Quote:
Originally Posted by totalz
[EK, perhaps you could come up with a full block backplate??]
generally a board will just straight up refuse to boot- which is what happened with Tiborr and myself, I only fried my X58 chip when I tried loosening my blocks screws around the X58 chip (not the I/O MOSFET area. I'm presuming the contact in this area was compromised, and this caused the chip to instantly burn out on boot
(for the record, I was using MX4- a non conductive thermal paste on the X58
HiQuote:
Originally Posted by psygnosi
Wanted to know what settings you are running the board on, I am having loads of problems with my board cant even get it to boot using just X.S.P profile so i can run my ram at 1866 mhz which is the standerd speed, which BIOS are you running.
Hi Farmerbrown,
For my ram I cannot use XMP. You have to set the settings manually.
for my system to run 1866 I have to set it at these settings:
DRAM Config:
8-9-9-24 1N at 1.60v for 12 Gig(Fully tested with memtest v 410).
QPI: 1.30v
Since I'm using a Intel 980x I'm running my system at 4.0Ghz(30x133) at 1.27Vcore.
CPU PLL: 1.60v
(Use Prime95, Linx, IBT to test for overall stability).
Oh and I'm using the latest 704 Bios. Hope this helps you.
PS: We need a Bios Template for this board....Anyone have one?
Psygnosi:)
ok thanks i will give it a go and see if i can get the board to post.Quote:
Originally Posted by psygnosi
thanks :)
Guys do you think I can power on the board with block installed, but without tubes actually yet? I'd just fire the board up at stock settings and see if it posts - nothing more. If it POSTs I mount it in the case with tubes and I'm good.
The question is if the block itself can handle pwm/chipset heat for ~5-10 seconds.
Yeah! Primochill LRT Black tubing arrived. It has a much better bend radius than feser and tygon. Had to take block out again and viola! Primochill LRT is awesome! Flipping the EK Asus-1 insignia face up does give you the best room to add another gpu on top. The XSPC 5870 FC with the EK Backplate fit perfectly. EK 5970 FC with Backplate fits perfectly on the second pci-e slot. Bitspower Crystal link tube and connectors bridge the two cards. Also the EK Supreme HF Full Nickel Edition came in as well. Now waiting for a Black Ice Stealth 120mm Radiator for the back fan.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...ct/Latest2.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...si/Nicejpg.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/Nice3jpg.jpg
Its true -> You spend $200-$400 for your project and end up spending $1000-$2000 when its done. The nice thing is you can do this little by little.
I'm a happy camper! :D
Yeah, half a kilo of copper should hold the heat load just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by totalz
@pysgnosi: :up:
EK keep informing us about progress. I mean what did you find out about block :)
Guys, If anyone wants to buy a nickel plexi block, I'm selling mine, all accessories/original packaging except the thermal pads included, will post overseas etc.
Please pm me if interested
Why are you selling it? Don't have time to look further into the topic, but from what I remember your block was actually working?
it was working, but it caused the second PCI E x16 slot to stop working. unfortunately, i need that for my 5870, my 4x for my revodrive, and my top x16 for my x-fi forte. so when i tried to remount the block to see if it would work, i fried the board.
Correction:
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
Point is, board is fried, and my rma was denied
bad to hear it :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropluszero
wanted to buy and LC this baby... *scratch head while watching e-tailers prices*
EK any new information?
Sorry for impatience, but I returned my block without mounting it (too risky for me) and waiting for solution, cause I'd like to finish my LC finally :D
Does anyone know any other blocks for R3G?