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3.25" to 5.25" bay painted black
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001113NEF.jpg
The wires with heat shrinks ;)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001102NEF.jpg
Front panel with blue fans and black steel mesh
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001111NEF.jpg
The side panel's okay but it needs a little more work... You can still see the scratches...
Edit:
I think the blue fans will look good when its all finished.... Are you going to use Blue LED fan controllers?
Thanks for your opinion. I am trying to find a way get rid of scratches.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
Yeah. I got lamptron FC-2 rheobus monster.. It has blue led in them.
I'd use primer / sand it down / reprime it again and agian until you can't see the scratches anymore.... Works for me and it drys fast...
The lamptron FC-2 is a nice controller... :up:
you mean i put a primer top of it and then sand and then repaint it whatever color i like?
I usally takes a few coats of primer / sanding to get rid of deep scratches... Once the scratch are gone its ready for paint and a clear coat
thanks for the tips :up: I appreciate your advice.
very love the MM
thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by paill
Question: if it make all the individual switches to one big switch, it wont cause to short circuit, right?
Very clean job with the radiators. Can't wait to see it inside the case!
I thought I had read somewhere that mounting the rads with the ports on the bottom (vertically upside-down) was a bad idea because of a possible accumulation of air :confused:
yeah.. this is the result of spending hours and hours on XS reading other people's worklog. but this cant be compare to other people's awesome works.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottALot
:eek: now you telling me :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by randomhro
Sorry for the semi-late info :rofl: Otherwise it looks like you've done a really good job with everything :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
:rofl: you gave me a heart attack.. I dont think few small bubbles would back a difference. right?;)Quote:
Originally Posted by randomhro
Thanks scott. It's words like yours (including other members) make me wanna work harder on the case. I got a friend today helped me organizing the loops and planning the pattern he even painted on the radiators. More pictures coming soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottALot
Can't upload it now as I still need to assemble the computer.
Just point out and stop me from making any mistakes. I'll appreciate it.
Thanks
What is the mesh grills you're using? I also have a MM Ascension and was going to go without a mesh grill but after seeing yours, I'd like to get the same ones.
To be honest, I was thinking like you did. The blue fans I have look amazing with mirror black case. But the dust was my biggest concern.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger30Q
You could find these on performance-pcs.com. Just search black mesh grill and viola you will find it. Is your worklog on XS? If so post your link here so I could check it out. I want to learn something I miss.
Just to make it easier. Here is the link:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25850
I'm not making a worklog for the build but will be posting the Case Gallery thread. It's really nothing special and I didn't want to take the time to take the pics and post.
Save a few bucks and purchase them from here ----------> LINKQuote:
Originally Posted by Danger30Q
They usally offer discounts if you can find the codes online....
I tried this site before. Unfortunately they don't ship internationally.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
I have an update.
Watercooling Pros in XS! I need your help big time. I have leak on motherboard block. It leaked at the place where I replace red plexi piece with the transparent one. There was an advice not to overly tight the screw as there is chance to break te plexi. Well! I didn't tight them enough just to precaution and now de iodized water is on the board. I used kitchen towels to absorb as much water as I can. Now as beginner, I have no clue what to do next. Surely, motherboard wasn't on. Only te pump. Any step by step advice would be appreciated.
Leave everything in a well ventilated place for about 2 days. Should be fine.
Thanks for your reply. I'll do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Even After tightening the screw the motherboard block is still leaking.
How should I fix it?
Update:
I did tight the screws. Unfortunately, some screws, well what you could say, can't be open. The hex key doesn't have tight grip in them anymore.
I have two choice. Put super glue around the joints and leak test it again or solder it :rofl: and leak test it.
What do you guys recommend? I don't think anyone had similar problem like mine.
Last choice is buy a new motherblock which I don't what to as I can't wait for it
Pull the bridge off and make sure the rubber o ring is seated correctly. Sometimes the o ring gets caught between the plexi parts and will get smashed and deformed. Just pull it apart and redo it and you should be fine. Next time you have a leak use toilet paper, soaks up water like a sponge.Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
Well I tried removing the bridge. The screws are messed up right now. I can't even unscrew it anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
I tried glue and a difference. But wasn't hundred percent.
Now I'm using powerful silicone sealant to do the trick. Need to leave it for 24 hours.
Tomorrow will be another leak test.
If all fails, need to order a new block. Hope Ek would send me one without red bridge attached just like in the picture on their site. :)
I tried glue and a difference. But wasn't hundred percent.
Now I'm using powerful silicone sealant to do the trick. Need to leave it for 24 hours.
Tomorrow will be another leak test. Hope it works.
If all fails, then I need to order a new block. Hope Ek would send me one without red bridge attached just like in the picture on their site. :rolleyes:
What's the optimal time to test the leak?
I just started the test. Till now no leak. :Phew:
If you used the proper size allen key to remove the screws, they wouldn't be "all messed up" and you could remove the bridge.
It's still possible to strip the screws with the proper sized Allen wrench. If you don't have it inserted all the way into the screw it is quite easy to strip a screw, but that usually happens from not paying attention while trying to do it.
A minimum of 24 hours seems to be the norm for leak testing before actually applying power to components.
I agree with you regarding wearing of the screws. I did use proper keys.Quote:
Originally Posted by randomhro
I will leave the old block with the water running. See how things go.
Unfortunately, things didn't go as planned.
Waiting for new motherboard waterblock to arrive from the store. Until then :shrug:
Don't worry this setback didn't stop me going watercooling. I'll definitely be back for more watercooling in near future.
How do attach multiple RAM on RAM waterblock?
Do you take all the fins out and attach the RAMs on the motherboard and then add the block on the top?
It might be hard to estimate the distance between the RAMs perfectly without the above procedure.
What do you recommend?
Well, I believe with MIPS blocks you can first install the single modules (the two plates touching the RAM), and then put the waterblock on top.
How to mount it can be found on their site, but it's in German, so I used Google Translate to translate it:
1st Loosen screw (not complete) of 3 middle screws Alumodules.
2nd WLP apply to the storage module.
3rd Inserting the memory modules and tightening the screws compress the three middle Alukühlrippen.
4th Check whether the memory module in Alumodul tight bind.
5th Process corresponding to the number of the memory modules again.
6th RAM modules installed now in the memory slots on the motherboard and secure it.
7th WLP apply to the contact surfaces of the Alumodule.
8th Screw the RAM modules with the main body of the RAM cooler 3
What are you going to do with the old block.... You could send it to me.......:)Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
I don't mind. Send me your address in private message and it will be send by Friday.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
Thanks.... PM sent
No worries. You are welcome.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
If you are able to fix it, I'll be glad. Do you want me to send you pictures of it?
Update:
Got block today. It still has the red bridge and this time they forgot to send the other bridge. (heart break)
By the way, should I place new thermal pads on the motherboard? I left the old ones on it for days without block attached to it.
Thanks agian,Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
No pictures required…. I’ll let you know if it’s fixable….
Sorry to hear about your misfortune…. Have you contacted them to see if they will send you the part you need?
Note: the old ones should be fine as long as they haven’t been compromised or compressed too much... If you’re worried about your thermal protection I would replace them just to be safe….
To be honest, the computer currently I'm working is the only computer I have and :rofl: I can't wait any longer. I'm addicted to computers.I already attached the block to motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
When I do another worklog, I'll take my sweet time.
Currently, I can't wait and get this thing running.
I have put LED lights on the blocks but can't find a way on gtx480. Hope I find some solution on it.
Pm replied.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
I just finishing the work on my computer.
The idle temp @ 2.6GHz is 19 C. My windows are open. The temperature in dublin is 15 according to yahoo.com.
Fans are running at half speed.
Pictures will be upload tomorrow (friday)
first batch of pictures:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001129NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001133NEF.jpg
You could see the scratch on the rads. Initially, I had a place the drives bays to be at the top but the screws at the floor caused me problem and it couldnt fit. So I decided to put bays at the bottom and tubes coming out from the top, being careful if the the rad got punctured it would leak from the bottom.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001135NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001136NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001137NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001139NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001140NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001142NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001144NEF.jpg
I have loads of pictures coming up, it takes time to fix them and upload them. Hope you understand
I can’t wait to see this build completed…. Nice Job… :up:
thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
It is completed thats why you see me uploading the photos ;)
That looks pretty sweet marxviper well done so far :up:
Nice chunk of storage from what I can see as well whats that a couple of raptors and a few 1Tb disks?
Thanks, there was lots of struggle as a beginner.Quote:
Originally Posted by generious
I got 2 raptors 150gb in raid 0 and 3 1tb WD caviar green in raid 5 and one WD blue 500gb in raid 1 for 2 raptors.
Does anyone knows a way to add more hdd in raid 5? e.g. i have 3 hdd in raid 5 and add another 1 tb to it without losing any data.
Backup/remaking raid/restore from backup. Should work on any raid.
Some higher end raid controllers (eg. my 3ware 9650SE M24 is) are able to grow raid5/6 without data loss (took eternity to finish though), but no guarantee your is. Consult homepage of your raid controller vendor.
P.S. You might start getting issues with >2tb block devices (which your 3hdd raid5 after adding another disk will be larger then). Starting with need to use GPT instead of old dos partition tables, and maybe limited support in OS/bios.
Jum jum jum! Looks very nice so far, looking forwart do the finisht build!
Im using intel controller on my evga x58 motherboard, wondering this will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
i need more hdd to back up my current raid to make a new one, not cost effective for :rofl:
Could you please recommend decent raid controller pci card for me? I would appreciate that. Some controllers I have checked are quite expensive.
thanks... if your jum jum is yum yum.. you already made me hungry for some more pc modding, also for some pizza.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemic
3ware, areca are good, but expensive. And these days controllers are pci express cards, not pci. But imho you'd be better off with backup/restore method instead of buying expensive hardware raid controller card. Don't you have some friends you could borrow disks for backup during growing of raid time? I myself am against stuffing main rig with loads of disks. I have dedicated network file server placed where i don't care about noise of disks/electricity costs :)
my friends are not into pc.. at most very few would have 500 external harddrive :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
thanks for the advice i will look into these brands.
marxviper: i have to warn you that simply buying advanced raid controller won't get you through. After all, most different hardware raid controllers usually write their own specific service headers on disk in their own format to distinct what particular disk is and how it's configured into raid, so it's more then probable, that you won't be able to read your current 3 disk raid 5 made with integrated intel raid controller by simple reconnecting disks to newly bought advanced controller, so most probably no skipping backup-restore for you, sorry. You can only expect raid be readable on different controllers if it's software raid (support in OS). Eg. something from windows (IIRC called dynamic volumes or somthing, never used them), or mdraid in linux and so on. Then you can read that raid in another box with even fully different disk controller just fine if OS there is similar.
couldnt life be a bit more simpler :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
a preview of whats coming next:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001241NEF.jpg
i think you should switch the tube coming from the res to the rad to the other port, that way the tube going to the rad next to it is the same length as the next rad over also. (omg what a long sentence, did it make sense?)
actually I tried that with my friend. I cant remember what was the reason we didnt do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by werdwerdus
this is how it started:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001198NEF.jpg
then after few hours later:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001271NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001265NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001250NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001278NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001279NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001280NEF.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001280NEF.jpg
guess what the LED switches work:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0001286NEF.jpg
I need practice in taking better photos
Wow, I really love the look of that build marx :D.
I'm also more and more beginning to like the tygon tubing. Although it has some coding on it which bothers me, I really like the glasslike reflection it has :D.
thanx alexandr0sQuote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
I agree with you on the writing of the tube. But what could we do? :shrug:
I really like the tube and how easily it bends without deforming.
A little rubbing alcohol will remove the tygon print...
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/5965/tygon1.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/9060/tygon2.jpg
Thanks Malkiewicz! :D
No problem... I used this method to remove the Tygon lettering form the black tubing / comes off easily and it looked good when it's done...Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/201/mm907.jpg
nice tip :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
Does anyone know how to overclock cpu on evga x58 classified motherboard? I check the manual and it is useless.
Any info or links would be appreciated.
Wow this build looks great from the side! Managing all the hardware in a MM case like that is a tough job, but you're getting it done.
thanks, it was tough but went alright.. Cable management is a messQuote:
Originally Posted by ScottALot
By the way, I tried overclocking and messed up after BSOD, the windows couldnt startup even with the repair from the boot cd so I had to reinstall it all over again.
Now I notice the computer is not as snappy as before. Its kinda slow.
Does downloading 5 mb per sec and verifying and repairing raid 5 array hdds affect the speed of the computer?
Any luck with your OC / do you have any photo updates?
Nice build mate, hows the cable sleeving with this case? might need it for my next build since im going to be using 3x 480's, 990x etc...
I took lot of photos, Its hard to take good photos when one has a gorillapod :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
how do you take screenshot?
The hardest part of this case is cable management. I still need to work on it. I will take some pictures now and post them up soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny87au
Yeah the gorillapod is cool... You should go all out and get the Nikon Bogen Manfrotto Pro
Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
Thanks. I'll check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
I got a problem. I don't know if it's due to the pump or it's due to feser coolant.
I was playing team fortress and I got warning that graphics card is above 100 degrees.
I checked the reservoir and noticed the filling rate of the reservoir compared to when I had distilled water in it. I also noticed some gluey stuff floating on the reservoir.
Should I get stronger pump or replace the current one?
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
Here is my endeavor in photography with feser coolant.
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...7_00001362.jpg
Here is gluey thing I am talking about:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...9_00001471.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...4_00001466.jpg
Before I could see coolant flowing into the reservoir like a tap water, now its just lingering around the wall of reservoir. :confused:
did you rinse out the rads etc. before you filled up the system?
Yeah. Alot.Quote:
Originally Posted by werdwerdus
Switching on pump for five to seven second without water could harm the pump or not?
It should be avoided. Without water in the pump it can spin up too fast, causes damage to the bearings and impellers.Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
Also, while I do not use Feser One UV Blue, I have run across a few cases of people describing gunk build up from the blue.
One of the more famous builders:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=634
take a look at her water block.... does it look familiar. In this case she wasn't using premixed Feser One I believe, but she dye bombed it. It has some tissue residue associated with it as it appears.
Generally speaking, dye coolants are troublesome, and keeping debris from your loops is very important.
thanks for your reply...Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpingJack
I forgot that there was not water running pump for few seconds even though there was some water in it..
How could you dissolve that junk out of the system?
Maybe this junk is causing my pump to slow down.
Man, I need to return extra three bottles of feser blue back to uk then for refund.
Could please send me the link of the product you mentioned above?Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
It's hard to find on the net. I found one but it's head of tripod.
It is not easy, some dyes are just solid supensions (colloidal solutions), and the small particulates just conglomerate, other dyes are funky organic/water soluble complex conjugate systems, that when exposed to UV tend to polymerize and precipitate out of solution causing the gunk.Quote:
Originally Posted by marxviper
The only real way to fix this is to take everything apart and clean them. When I have a gunked up block, I use the softest toot brush I can find, some IPA and distilled water and just rinse, scrub, rinse, scrub.
After I am finished I reassemble the loop and flush it vigorously. A trick:
- Go to a pet shop and find a 'vacuum' tank cleaner, which is nothing more than an aspirator that will connect up to any house hold faucet. They often have just the aspirator for about 10 bucks or so. The aspirator simply hooks up to any house hold faucet and will take 3/8 to 1/2 ID tubing (I just use some spare 7/16" tubing)
- Run a tube to your loop and break the loop at one point (at the reservoir) inlet and the aspirator.
- Turn on that aspirator and suck one or two gallons of distilled H2O through the loop, very nice vigorous flush.
I do not use dyes, if I want color I just get colored tubing -- Primochill offers up nice high quality UV active tubing.
EDIT: Your endeavor into photography actually looks quite good to outstanding.
Jack
Mate you should buy some primochill Blue Tubing, looks better then the tygon tubing and it has some kind of anti corrosive which is built into the tubing which stops gunk etc, So you can just use Distilled water which is great... to clean out your rads use 1:9 Distilled with vinegar .. Flush it 3-4 times with distilled:vinegar then flush it 3 more times with just distilled, be sure to shake the hell out of the radiator to get some of the hard gunk which can build up..
Thanks Jack for the detailed advice. It's friendly and supportive members like you made me post my worklog here. I really appreciate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpingJack
I will check it out and try to get my rads clean. Man, lots of junk come out of the loop. It even affected the pump. I had to open swiftech 355 and took rotator ball out and put in the red vinegar :rofl: and dip it in for few minutes and after that I rinse in distilled water in a bowl and saw threads of junk in the bowl. I then flushed it under the tap water and use distill water to clean it again. The pump is not working much better.
Thanks Johnny for the tip. I run distilled water in the tubbing and then disconnected the disconnetor and blow air hard through the rad and it kinda help me to take more of the junk. I did that like 4 times. Used about 1 gallon of water. I am thinking of changing my motherboard from horizontal to vertical after few months. Then I will flush the rads as you suggested. thanks again:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny87au
One more pic with feser coolant:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...9_00001374.jpg
Here the picture of cable management that I am too lazy to work on (this case doesnt make it any easier, also note this is after draining the feser and then putting back distilled water)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...6_00001480.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...5_00001479.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...5_00001479.jpg
Nice build, i feel your pain though hehe, mountain mods arent the best of all cases to do some cable sleeving :D
Still, it's looking nice :)
:rofl: trueQuote:
Originally Posted by Johnny87au
Thanks for your kind words.Quote:
Originally Posted by GJS1
I know it could be better. And I am thinking all day to make it better. I will invest more on it in future to make it better.
had the same crappy blue-blue once back in the old days ;)
even if my setup was less complicated than yours (way less)... 'was a real pain in the a$$ to clean it all up!
i share your pain dude!!!
Yeah spend another 22 euros to buy 5 gallons of water just to clean this stuff..Quote:
Originally Posted by josk1
Josk, do you use color tubing or clear tubing nowadays?
why dont they just add water and dye? no need to put glycol stuff...this stuff tend to cause problem.
maybe i just buy dye from feser instead of pre-mixed coolant
changed my mind, ill just have color tubes from tygon and black acetyl waterblocks..
@marxviper: What fan filters are you using on the front of that Ascension case? They look great, and they are internal, which is what I am looking for right now. Please tell me where you got them.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot to say: Your rig looks great! Great job! I love it!
well, actually I love everything except for the coolant, and I say get rid of it, and forget about dyes, just get some UV-reactive blue tubing, and use plain distilled water with a biocide, or some silver. Glycol is used to kill microbes, but it decreases cooling performance, so you don't want it or need it.
Thanks mate. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by eth0s
here is the link for the mesh
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25850 (i got from here)
malkiewicz recommends from here http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...keyword=filter
I too hate the color right now. But too lazy to change it at the moment.
I am planning to get white tubings and a powerful pump, I am not into UV reactive tubings. however, if you know some good color tubings, do let me know. I would love to try them. Are they good in bending as tygon? Maybe I should try anti kink coils too
Here are the pictures before I added feser coolant in the system:
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...8_00001309.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...4_00001301.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...0_00001297.jpg
nice work mate!
wow, it looks gorgous. I wish the postage to the UK wasn't so heafty