sent em, u can post them up if you want, gotta figure out how to host them myslef :(
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sent em, u can post them up if you want, gotta figure out how to host them myslef :(
k, they are up on this thred. I will have more to come this weeked
ok well i didnt get to make it to home depot to pick up the pipe benders.... but if u guys maybe could post a good set of them then ill have something to look for....thanks:D
Here's what they look like:
http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Tools_...nt/benders.asp
Scroll down to the 3 in 1 benders. That's what you need. If you shop around, you can find them a lot cheaper.
You will be amazed at how easy it makes the bending.
Gary, can you please specify what you mean my coiling something up to make it more efficent again. I am a vapor n00b
mrnuke... What I was suggesting is that you put the evaporator in the cooler diagonally, so that the coolant flows through it instead of around it.
what is the difference, by having it in diagonally is that better flow for the freon?
No, for the coolant (anti-freeze mixture).
If you pump the coolant in on one side of the evaporator, and out on the other side of the evaporator, then it has to go through the evaporator and get colder.
I'm not sure if I am making this clear. The evaporator should be vertical, as it is now, but just turn it a little so the ends are against the sides of the cooler.
hes just saying so the coolant has to be forced through the fins of the evap it has nothing todo with the freon or r-22... hes just saying if the liquid goes through the evap fins it has a chance to get a lil colder or stay at a cooler temp under load...Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
I'm not sure if I am making this clear. The evaporator should be vertical, as it is now, but just turn it a little so the ends are against the sides of the cooler.
lol wana leme borrow urs;) jk i think i might have to pull off another 12hr day at work to catch up on some lil things...i will get them either tomaro or wensday!! and get this pig going dangit..i hate getting slowed down. ne ways garry ur such a big help and everyone else on this forum as well. its nice to have so many people with so many wonderfull ideas!!Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Here's what they look like:
http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Tools_...nt/benders.asp
Scroll down to the 3 in 1 benders. That's what you need. If you shop around, you can find them a lot cheaper.
You will be amazed at how easy it makes the bending.
Good work there guys..... This thread is excellent for someone who's just starting to make a chiller...... one question though and sorry if its off topic, H0w come there arent many who uses windshield wiper fluid, ive seen ones that are good to -45c and its alot cheaper than antifreeze..... also isnt alcohol a lil dangerous especialy if your pump is submerge in it? thanks....
Windshield washer fluid is methanol alcohol mixed with water. It can be strengthened, if needed, with gas line anti-freeze, which is pure methanol. Many of the chillers in this forum are using this and it seems to work very well. I take it the concern here is the effects that this may have on the aluminum fins and/or the steel endplates. I know very little about the subject, so I'm just sitting back and watching. :D
Some one should try d-Limonene
http://www.floridachemical.com/
GREAT THREAD! Keep it going!
I've been researching into doing one myself so this has been great to follow.
I got my new danner mag 5! also, gary, in the picture of the evap, do you want it diagnol side to side like that in the red or up and down (elavation) for the way you were trying to explain to me?
http://64.81.234.201/pump.jpg http://64.81.234.201/acevap.jpg
Yes, side to side just as in the red line. This divides the cooler into two triangular shaped compartments. If you pump your coolant into one of those compartments and out of the other, then the coolant is forced to flow through the evaporator.
thanks a lot, glad we could clear that up
well sorry to say but all the good stuff is gone....i was almost done and i had it in the cooler when i here this PSSSTTTT and white stuff goins everywhere and now all i have is an empty ac unit....ill post a pic of where it broke...
well gary was right right next to the brazing
:rolleyes: well now it looks like i get to tweak it right? is there any thing u guys could ponder up todo that would make this thing chill better then b4? im up for ne ideas or would u guys just say get it all setup and bend it all up to fit inside the cooler then have someone fix the leak then fill it up again? how much for a refill of r-22 or whatever i could put in it for better temps without having to do a big overhaul on the hole thing...
pic
this is where i was at basically finished....
don't get down guys, i still got mine and i'll definently post pics of it all. This weekend i'm gonna work on it and i'll have the pics up soon there after!
Ouch. This is where you start spending money, whichever way you go. You need to decide whether you want to get all the tools needed to fix it or to have someone do it for you. Either way, it is going to be expensive. Another idea would be to get another A/C and start over. No good choices.
really how much to just patch it up and fill it? over 100 u think?
it will cost enough if you take it to a refridgerator shop. Buddy of mine had his vapo spring a leak. He fixed the piping w/ a solder and got it refilled w/ R22 for about $75-150, i can't remember
lol for that much ill just get another;)
Just want to stay posted on the thread. Find it interesting.:)
aww damn sucks pimpsho :(
i have been awaiting this thread for long long time
because im trying to get this setup some time in teh summer.
well better luck next time.
btw nice making this thread, answered alot of questions i had :)
ya im currently biddin on another unit on ebay i kinda want to get a higher btu unit and im also not messing arround with this one...its gona be perfect:banana:
Pimsho, how bout just using the one you have. Bend everything to where you like it and then get it fixed by a refrigeration dude.
That way everything is where you want it and it works too
If you were to get another A/C unit, you are faced with the same thing and it may spring a leak while trying to bend the pipes. If that happens, you will have bought 2 units with nothing to gain
Just something to think about is all. Good luck Pimpsho!
very true man ive been thinking about it and its a toss up...cuz its gona cost atleast 75bux im thinkin to refill it and all. so ill prolly figure it out tomaro cuz right now im messin with my girlfriends comp;) she just got a new setup today so im already tweakin it all up for her:toast: i told her she didnt have a choice on whether or not i got to fuxor with it:DQuote:
Originally posted by lallend
Pimsho, how bout just using the one you have. Bend everything to where you like it and then get it fixed by a refrigeration dude.
That way everything is where you want it and it works too
If you were to get another A/C unit, you are faced with the same thing and it may spring a leak while trying to bend the pipes. If that happens, you will have bought 2 units with nothing to gain
Just something to think about is all. Good luck Pimpsho!
i agree with lallend , u wouldnt have to go thru the trouble now after just bending everything into place, and now u dont have to worry about leaks ;)
few questions,
what kind of water temps do you guys expect from this system?
does teh system run 24/7 ?
are pelts needed at those temps ? ( too much power usage heh, compressor and peltier system i think )
1 more, if some time i needed to go Direct die, what systems do u recomend ( im not a fan of the prommie price ) and can i get a AC shop to put it together and gass it and stuff? ( prolly run me up to a prommie price but oh well )
A window A/C could be made into a direct die. The only difference between direct die and chiller is the type of evaporator.
Of course we would want a more restrictive cap tube and a more flexible suction line.
Pimpsho, if I were you I would put a low side access valve on it, and repair the leak. Then decide if you want to fill it yourself or have someone else do it.
puttin the valve on would be pretty easy i assume right? just cuttin the copper pipe somewhere(u would have to show me;)) and then braze it in.. also how would i go about fixin the leak?
Usually there is a process tube on the compressor. It is pinched off an brazed shut. This is where you would braze in an access valve. Or you can braze it into the suction line. How would you fix the leak? Braze it.
How are you doing with your system, mrnuke? Make any progress over the weekend?
lol, not really, i had a lot of stuff to do, but i also need to know where to find some quick disconnects for 1/2" tubing so i can disconnect my chiller from the rest of the computer for when i go lan or move it. Any help on that would be great. I promase i will have it done before christmas with pictures!
alright now to get going on this thing... should i just cut out where it was cracked and then put a lil coupler over the 2 ends and braze them? cuz would it be really weak if there is a crack then just some brazing over it? and i know what ur talking about to put the access valve cuz i see a tube where its pinched like two times and it just dead ends...so what would i do? just cut the pinched parts outa the copper then braze the valve on?Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Usually there is a process tube on the compressor. It is pinched off an brazed shut. This is where you would braze in an access valve. Or you can braze it into the suction line. How would you fix the leak? Braze it.
Set your evap where you want it so you won't have to move it anymore if you have to extend both inlet and outlet nows the time. When you have it in the right spot, pick a spot on the tubing that is straight and trim and add flexible copper tubing and couplers, flux and solder, evacuate, you could let it sit overnight with a vacuum and if it stays in vacuum you should have no leaks. Then charge it up and chill away...
i worked a bit more last night, i'll post a pic later of what all i did.
Sorry, guys. I have fallen behind here. Been having computer problems... LOL
Without a doubt I have the oldest and slowest computer around here, and it is giving me fits. I know a lot about cooling, but am a noob when it comes to computers. Trying to upgrade the modem, and it just refuses to be upgraded.
Pimpsho, you should be able to just braze over the crack. The trick is to get it just the right temperature so you can butter the material on thick. Done right, it will be stronger than the copper.
In the pics, I see a pinched off tube at the condenser. This would be for a high side access. Is there a similar tube on the compressor? That's where we really need an access. Either on the process tube or on the suction line.Quote:
...and i know what ur talking about to put the access valve cuz i see a tube where its pinched like two times and it just dead ends...so what would i do? just cut the pinched parts outa the copper then braze the valve on?
Guys, how are these projects coming?
Pimpsho, this is a little late, but here is how I would have bent the suction line in order to avoid breaking it: The suction line came out of the coil, then down, over, and up, in a wide U shape. I would have made a 90 degree horizontal bend in the bottom center of the U, making the line wrap around behind the bottom of the evaporator. I would then straighten the horizontal line alongside the top of the compressor to match.
Of course, this is just going by the pictures. The reality may not match.
very true! im working on a work bench so that im not doing all my stuff onthe ground...(back starts to hurt:rolleyes: ) but i was wondering how i could fill it back up... i see those lil guages uguys have that show pressure i think.... but what else would i need besides some freon to get this thing going again?
A good tempature probe.
What is a "good" and "acurate" temperature probe.Quote:
Originally posted by Redwolf
A good tempature probe.
what would it cost. >= 100$ or less then 100$ ?
Alot of people say to use Fluke. Personaly I like Omega. They make a great product for alot less. The HH11 $65 or HH12 $75
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...1_HH12&Nav=m02
Or like the one I've got HH509 for $120
http://www.omega.com/pptst/HH508_509.html
For the Euro guys.. Testo. You can buy them in the US too thou.
They make some nice pocket type surface thermomters.
http://www.testo.de/ZZ/en/index2.htm
woohoo, done with finals, so time to do some work on my chiller before i go to the sugar bowl! Gary, sorry i haven't posted any new pic's been really busy with finals. I'm gonna get to work on it this weekend and i have already cut in the cooler where the return line and cap tube come out.
:slobber:
;)
When I got them home I opened them up. I checked the wires most of it in bad shape but workable . I pluged them in fired them up and was a bit suprised when they both worked ! Awsome!thease thing sat outside in the rain for three years.At least.
This is the unit I used after a night in the basement with four rattle cans . Remember it looked just like the other.I removed all the unwanted switching,wires,spare sheet metal.sanded ,removed rust scale ,sanded washed wiped and polished all the coper.
After the wiring, I mounted a single toggle to fire the thing up. Note the start capacitor painted copper and nestled under the tubing didnt have room for much after mounting our beloved beer cooler on the factory baseplate.
I forced the evaporator up against the side of the tank to form a seperate section for the returning fluid. I couldnt get mine to go in diagonal as Gary sugested.
This fitting is connected to the outflow of a Danner mag 5. Shoving the Danner into place was a bit dicey. It would only go in one oriention with the room allowed by my evap. Getting it deep enough to fit below the suction line and water level took forcing it down into the narrowing bottom of our beloved beer cooler. Distorting it so the lid was now ill fitting .Thats why you see the extra weather striping around the lid seal.
After notching for the plumbing I just filled the excess space with weather stripping. The holes for the coolant lines can be drilled
Here it is at its final resting place. On some sturdy plastic shelving for 15 bucks from home depot.
I'm currently cooling my cpu and nb. Both blocks from Danger Den. I'm using the maze3 and thier Z block on the nb. the maze3 is a bit large extending beyond the socket area making it a bit of a pig to insulate. I chose all .500" fittings and .500 ID tubing .The tubing is Tygon . Tygon has a lower brittle temp and is designed to take harsh chemicals. I'm running ethanol denatured with methanol about 30% to about 70% Prestone Dex-Cool.
Well there it is, -25c both chips under normal load. The coolant temp stays pretty constant Iv'e only seen it raise 2c loaded as hot as I can get it. Iv'e gained 216 mhz over my ambient temp water cooling . Thats more than the power of Gary's system. Hehe.
I'll have that vid card in the circuit in a couple weeks ..
WOW... Very nice work. :D
I like your way of making a compartment for the returning coolant. How did you get it to stay in position?
I see the condenser fan shroud is missing. This allows condenser air to recirculate rather than being forced to flow through the condenser. You need to build a shroud for it to get maximum flow through the condenser.
My beloved pentium 60mhz has finally gone the way of the dinosaurs. I have pieced together a 166mhz now, cannibalizing 3 old computers in the process, and am having nothing but problems. Anybody know what a vcache is? Mine seems to be full... LOLQuote:
Iv'e gained 216 mhz over my ambient temp water cooling . Thats more than the power of Gary's system. Hehe.
that rig is a thing of beauty! i like itQuote:
Originally posted by jamaljaco
I'll have that vid card in the circuit in a couple weeks ..
did you paint that compressor in that nice blueish color or was it like that from the beginning (after cleaning, of course)? awesome, so now i have to get my chiller up and running!
also... those 92db in your sig aren't for real, are they? i mean 92db .. i was freaking out with my coolermaster at 47db ;) and 92db is like 4 times as loud as that..
btw what is the throughput of that biga** fan? my chiller had a 120mm papst 4650n installed (94cfm, 46db). i replaced it with 2 deltas running at 7v (got 3 more if needed :D) and it's pretty quiet right now. also - as gary noted - close the space around the fan so the air is pushed only through the condenser.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
WOW... Very nice work. :D
I like your way of making a compartment for the returning coolant. How did you get it to stay in position? [QUOTE]
Good morning Gary. Thats pretty much just where it wanted to be . It did seperate from the side wall towards the bottom of the tank positioning the Danner pump (which went in first) took care of the that.
Hello Sky , welcome to the madness. After cleaning with navel jelly and various grits of sandpaper it all had to be painted . The only part I didnt paint was the copper tubing and the evap .Not sure of the actual db rating it was more of a joke.Its as loud as a window a/c .Not sure of the cfm either , thats original equipment.
man ur really makin me jealous!!! damnit i wish i didnt break my chiller!!! well i am gona fix that thing asap!
sORry Gary I've forgotten most my paleontology.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
. Anybody know what a vcache is? Mine seems to be full... LOL
Wow! Thanks for the heads up on that fan shroud . Must have knocked at least 10db off the noise factor , hehe..
Ok, as a historian here,,,think I can help you w/ your vcache prob Gary, LOL. The Virtual Cache (VCache) is a disk cache that stores data from the HDD in the faster RAM so that if a program needs that certain piece of data, it can just access it in the vcache instead of accessing the HDD, which would take longer. The VCache can also copy more data than what the program asks for in anticipation that the next data segment would be needed next. This helps your HDD's performance. It kinda works in conjunction w/ your swapfile (virtual memory). You can optimize your VCache in your Registry, Like so:Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
My beloved pentium 60mhz has finally gone the way of the dinosaurs. I have pieced together a 166mhz now, cannibalizing 3 old computers in the process, and am having nothing but problems. Anybody know what a vcache is? Mine seems to be full... LOL
Open your System.INI file, scroll down until you see the line [vcache]. Usually, there will be nothing under this line. To adjust the vcache settings, you'll need to add the following lines below the line [vcache] :-
MinFileCache=xxxx
MaxFileCache=yyyy
ChunkSize=zzzz
where xxxx is the minimum size of the vcache in kilobytes (KB)
yyyy is the maximum size of the vcache in kilobytes (KB)
zzzz is the granularity of the vcache in bytes
Most agree that the optimal Max value would be 1/4 of the system RAM. Save any changes that you've made to the system.ini file, close Notepad and reboot the system. The changes will only take effect after you reboot the system.
This should help solve your problem. You can find a lot more information on this and other registry/disk optimizations at this site, its old stuff, written for win 98/2000 and also for older intels, but I found it VERY informative.....It might help you with your Dinosaurs! :) For the VCache info, goto the Disk Cache Optimization link. Hope it helps! :D
http://www.adriansrojakpot.com/Speed_Demonz.htm
thanksQuote:
Originally posted by jamaljaco
Hello Sky , welcome to the madness. After cleaning with navel jelly and various grits of sandpaper it all had to be painted . The only part I didnt paint was the copper tubing and the evap .Not sure of the actual db rating it was more of a joke.Its as loud as a window a/c .Not sure of the cfm either , thats original equipment.
i went about my rig mostly like you described, sanding the tubing and all those bits that now shine as new. just gave those a transparent coating to keep it like that.
so now i'm working to cut the noise down to as low as possible. atm the psu of one of my ancient 386-rigs supplies the power for the fans on the condenser and that psu is noisy as hell. while it isn't real loud, it's enough to blend out the delta fans @5/7v and the compressor's working noises are barely audible :)
No Fair Sky! We wants pics.!.
Yea , I used 2000 grit on my copper just to polish it . What clear coating did you use? Thought about clear coating mine but didnt know what would hold up to the hot and cold extremes.I really want to see your low noise fan solution .
Pimpsho, I see your name on the boards , you better be working on that chiller! hehe.Quote:
Originally posted by Pimpsho
man ur really makin me jealous!!! damnit i wish i didnt break my chiller!!! well i am gona fix that thing asap!
hey jamal, what did you do to condensate proof ur wb's and did you use dielectric grease for the pin holes?
Yea< lotsa dielectric grease in the socket, around the socket, ect. neoprene in the center of the socket after the grease,basicaly put it everywhere I thought moisture might occur. I coated the back of the mobo with liquid electrical tape as it can peel away clean if you need to remove it. for the closed cell foam I just bought an assortment of weather striping and expermented to get the right thickness for my temps . I recomend hooking up the coolant lines and waterblock(s) and pumping the chilled fluid through them for a few days while experimenting with insulation and different coolant mixtures before mounting it to our expensive hardware.I got all my good ideas from these forums , heheQuote:
Originally posted by mrnuke
hey jamal, what did you do to condensate proof ur wb's and did you use dielectric grease for the pin holes?
JAMAL,
Your Chiller unit is truly a Thing of Beauty! Im very impressed! You must have put a lot of long hours into that project. I must commend you on that not only does it look very effective in chilling your water, but its also very attractive. Very nice setup! :D :toast: :cool: You must either be single, or have a very understanding woman in your life. ;) :D
sSHhEeesHh !!>..Quote:
Originally posted by GeekGoddess
JAMAL,
Your Chiller unit is truly a Thing of Beauty! Im very impressed! You must have put a lot of long hours into that project. I must commend you on that not only does it look very effective in chilling your water, but its also very attractive. Very nice setup! :D :toast: :cool: You must either be single, or have a very understanding woman in your life. ;) :D
so i guess it's time for my to-be-chiller to show up :)
some words upfront. this used to be a beverage cooler, so it isn't anywhere as powerful as an a/c unit - but we'll see what temps it is actually capable of reaching.
atm it's being dissected - all the surplus parts will be removed and the rest will then be spit-shined, as some of the other parts already are.
http://www.abi02.de/deepblue2k2/pixx...tup02-9134.jpg
this is the whole unit. the biggie black bit in the background are 2 mora ga radiators that were put together for a quick loop to just test them for possible leaks. and they did a good job of showing the condensing water. the water temp in the rez was ~-5°C with the room temp at the time of the test being ~10-13°C -> HEAVY! condensation!
the pic shows 3 of the 4 fans, plus the original metal papst fan. 2 fans are right behind the condenser running at 5v. atop those 2 fans are 2 pieces of plexi that just serve as a shroud for the fans.
the 2 fans around the compressor are mostly off or running at 5v - this is just a precautional setup for high outside temps.
http://www.abi02.de/deepblue2k2/pixx...mpr01-9140.jpg
this here is the small compressor that's delivering the cooling goodness, a danfoss fr7.5g charged with r134a. the leftmost bit is the drier, sanded with 400-1000' sandpaper and later on coated with a layer of clear lacquer. so far the lacquer does a goob job - no blistering at all.
the compressor itself still needs a bit of cleaning - that greyish goop is really hard to remove - even paint thinner didn't get it off. hmmmm i guess i'll have to paint it blue :D
SKY, very nice! Looks awesome, Keep up the good work. :D :toast:
http://www.abi02.de/deepblue2k2/pixx...rez02-9138.jpg
and here comes the actual rez with the evap (that silver piping).
at the time of the picture the whole setup was turned of for some time - so there's no ice on the evap. temps measured on the evap in the top left corner (about where that whiteish tube crosses the pic) gave me around -10°C - not that much, but it's at the end of the evap. the coldest part is deep down at the bottom of the rez. and besides my temp-measuring was pretty cumbersome - a kty110 thermistor hooked to a cheapo multimeter - reading resistances of the display ;). same for the compressor - without the bottom 2 fans running it was at 45°-50°C.
while there's still only pure water in the rez, i guess the temps are ok. so far the actual water temp was around -6°C. next week i'm going for some g48 glysantin from basf - that should get the temps a good deal down (at least i hope so).
that's it for now. whenever my waterblocks show up, i'll post a follow up on this.
hm while i'm at it. does anyone know of a good (=accurate) tempsensor / lcd setup? i wanted to go for the digidoc 5 deal, but it's said to be only 0°C-100°C - not exactly what i need. as i'm going to build a custom cube for this whole chiller, i want it to include some lcds showing the temps and an option to adjust the fans from outside the case... hm maybe even selfadjusting...
thanks geekgoddess!
the pump inside the rez is a maxijet/powerhead 1200 - doing pretty good so far - just needs a little bit of neoprene underneath to stop its vibrations from passing through the entire setup.
the 2 mora radiators i talked about earlier are part of a "backup" plan. one is supposed to keep my main rig cool (palo1800+) while the second is the actual backup for my gaming/benching rig (tbb1700+ @2.4g) - because i ain't going to drag that chiller around to a lan at a friends place. that chiller weighs around 25-30kg, add another 14 liters of coolant in the rez...
http://www.abi02.de/deepblue2k2/pixx...mpr02-9135.jpg
ah well.. final pic of the drier close up with the focus on some piping in the back that still needs some cleaning since its behind the compressor and below the condensor - thus inaccessible atm.
Looks even better seeing the newer pix,,,hehe,,nice and shiny! :)
ya im working on mine right now!!! and hey jamalco thats some sweet ass work u did there!!!! props man i never thought of paintin the compressor
Jamal, are you ready for the next step?
We can do better. Since this system is charged for a much heavier load (A/C), it now has too much refrigerant in it. Your next step is to get a piercing valve and a set of guages. Install the piercing valve on the process tube. That's the stubbed off tube on the compressor.Quote:
Well there it is, -25c both chips under normal load. The coolant temp stays pretty constant Iv'e only seen it raise 2c loaded as hot as I can get it. Iv'e gained 216 mhz over my ambient temp water cooling .
Run the system until the coolant is at its lowest temperature (under load). Put your low side guage on the piercing valve. Then remove a little refrigerant, wait 10-15 minutes and see if the coolant temperature drops. Keep doing that until the coolant temperature stops dropping. This is the optimum refrigerant charge for the load. If the coolant temperature rises, you have gone a step too far.
Keep in mind that if the low side is in a vacuum, you must shut it down in order to remove refrigerant. You don't want to suck air into the system.
I wonder if a hot glue gun could be used to hold it in place?Quote:
Good morning Gary. Thats pretty much just where it wanted to be . It did seperate from the side wall towards the bottom of the tank positioning the Danner pump (which went in first) took care of the that.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
WOW... Very nice work.
I like your way of making a compartment for the returning coolant. How did you get it to stay in position?
Sky, your reservoir is HUGE. The smaller, the better. It must take forever to chill all of that coolant.
squeezed this in tonight, waitin on quick disconnects and tubing, tubing should be here soon. Gary, if you need more pics, i would like someone to help me on how to make the cooler secure instead of just hanging off. I think i might need to shave the shaft back a bit, cut some other stuff and move the control unit......
also, what should i use to cover up the cap tubing, I would hate to have a puddle every time i run my chiller.
How much would a set of gagues (for what refridgerent R22, R12, R502 set?) and a piercing valve cost?Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Run the system until the coolant is at its lowest temperature (under load). Put your low side guage on the piercing valve. Then remove a little refrigerant, wait 10-15 minutes and see if the coolant temperature drops. Keep doing that until the coolant temperature stops dropping. This is the optimum refrigerant charge for the load. If the coolant temperature rises, you have gone a step too far.
hey guys, I had to paint my A/C it was all rusted out . It was the next natural step after sanding , hehe ,. As a professional painter in the rustproofing buisness. ( I line and coat pipeline) This was nothing , lol.Also as an artist I like things to look good.Quote:
Originally posted by Pimpsho
ya im working on mine right now!!! and hey jamalco thats some sweet ass work u did there!!!! props man i never thought of paintin the compressor
No Gary not ready yet, I still need to aquire the piercing valve and the guages this may take a couples weeks allowing for the holidays.And say I let to much out , I would like to have the good stuff to put back in. I really can't wait to start learning to tune.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Jamal, are you ready for the next step?
We can do better. Since this system is charged for a much heavier load (A/C), it now has too much refrigerant in it. Your next step is to get a piercing valve and a set of guages. Install the piercing valve on the process tube. That's the stubbed off tube on the compressor.
Run the system until the coolant is at its lowest temperature (under load). Put your low side guage on the piercing valve. Then remove a little refrigerant, wait 10-15 minutes and see if the coolant temperature drops. Keep doing that until the coolant temperature stops dropping. This is the optimum refrigerant charge for the load. If the coolant temperature rises, you have gone a step too far.
Keep in mind that if the low side is in a vacuum, you must shut it down in order to remove refrigerant. You don't want to suck air into the system.
I havn't had a lot of experience with hot glue but I have my doubts about glueing metal and plastic together. Then bathing it in solvents like ethanol/ methanol.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Loyd.
I wonder if a hot glue gun could be used to hold it in place?
wrong; Every increase of 3db doubles the sound pressure :)Quote:
Originally posted by sky
that rig is a thing of beauty! i like it
did you paint that compressor in that nice blueish color or was it like that from the beginning (after cleaning, of course)? awesome, so now i have to get my chiller up and running!
also... those 92db in your sig aren't for real, are they? i mean 92db .. i was freaking out with my coolermaster at 47db ;) and 92db is like 4 times as loud as that..
btw what is the throughput of that biga** fan? my chiller had a 120mm papst 4650n installed (94cfm, 46db). i replaced it with 2 deltas running at 7v (got 3 more if needed :D) and it's pretty quiet right now. also - as gary noted - close the space around the fan so the air is pushed only through the condenser.
56db would be 4 times as loud as 47db
It looks like you have a smaller unit than I did . I got mine to fit on the base plate (don't know what else to call it) enough to stay there. I cut the edges that stick up and laid them flat so that the cooler sat flush .Yea , cut the shaft back as far as you can. I even moved the entire fan assembly forward omiting the shroud and later reconstructed it out of plastic as per Gary and Sky's advice. Also I completly rewired the unit . Removing the fan speed control,thermistat and power switch and replacing it all with a single toggle. Just on /off , full power.Quote:
Originally posted by mrnuke
squeezed this in tonight, waitin on quick disconnects and tubing, tubing should be here soon. Gary, if you need more pics, i would like someone to help me on how to make the cooler secure instead of just hanging off. I think i might need to shave the shaft back a bit, cut some other stuff and move the control unit......
not that it matters the 92db in my sig was hyperbole. Didnt feel it worth mentiong here in a thread about water chillers, nice catch though.Quote:
Originally posted by ns_ripper
wrong; Every increase of 3db doubles the sound pressure :)
56db would be 4 times as loud as 47db
yea Sky , you might want to think about how to get that evap out of that bathtub. There's got to be a way to bend it into a smaller container.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Sky, your reservoir is HUGE. The smaller, the better. It must take forever to chill all of that coolant.
what i learned was below 20db every increase by 5db doubles, above 20db it takes a 10db increase to double.Quote:
Originally posted by ns_ripper
wrong; Every increase of 3db doubles the sound pressure :)
56db would be 4 times as loud as 47db
ah wait.. i just saw .. we're not talking about the same thing. with sound pressure you're perfectly right, but i wasn't talking about sound pressure, but the actual volume (or whatever that is called). thehuman ear realizes (right word?) a 1000 Hz humm as being twice as loud, when the difference between two humms is ~10db - that's what i was getting at. but sound pressure and what i was talking about isn't the same. the latter is the subjective feel or something like that ;)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postid=305113
Looking good, mrnuke. :)
That's exactly what I had in mind when I suggested placing the evaporator diagonally in the cooler.
The cap tube can be soft soldered to the suction line, then insulate them both. The exchange of heat between them makes the evaporator more efficient. If you cannot soft solder them, an acceptable alternative would be to wrap them tightly together with electrical tape.
BTW, you may want to downsize these pics a bit. :D