That's a positive.
Think I saw some of them on my main PC yesterday a bit before I was rushed to the hospital :(
HTC Touch HD + free hospital wifi here.
Printable View
That's a positive.
Think I saw some of them on my main PC yesterday a bit before I was rushed to the hospital :(
HTC Touch HD + free hospital wifi here.
That is probably because of the huge load the 4 GFXs are making on the NB.Quote:
Originally Posted by r1ch
BTW,
Who the hell designed the PCI-E X16 slots on the Bloodrage ?
it's the worst design by far.
2 X16 slots then a PCI and another 2 X16 slots, so stupid :down:
Now how am I suppose to connect 3 GFX cards with dual slot cooling ?:shakes:
Luckily they invented Risers and extender :clap:
I really should have picked some other project for my very first soldering attempt. THAT THING WAS SMALL. :eek:
Hope it works:
Equipment
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/2855/equipment.jpg
Had to clean off the black nail polish in the mod area.
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/554/premod.jpg
Here is the resistor off. See the tiny little guy loose off to the side? I actually lost it for 20 minutes. Luckily, I finally found it stuck to some eraser nearby.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/302...transistor.jpg
Here is post soldering. WAY sloppier than r1ch, but he must have more experience. :yepp: I don't think I had all the nail polish off prior to soldering......I sure hope it works. I hope I have enough contact.....
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/4955/postmod.jpg
Now to do my easy project for the night: drill a temp probe hole in the NB pot!
I wish I could try everything out today, but I won't get out of work fast enough to get more LN2 until next week. And my local grocery store was out of DICE today. Wonder why? :shrug::D
Great job Patch :up:
Funny - I lost that resistor too when I was making the mod yesterday :D
247 bclk so far, thanks to The_Fox and his excellent tips:
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/screenshot/603353.png
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=603353
hehe, Cool thing Patch, I like the scopes on your glasses, you should show us a picture of you wearing it "in action" :rofl:
That resistor is the smallest thing ever :shakes: but it looks like you got it all right, I am sure it will work.
xoqolatl, amazing results :up:, is that on AIR ?
I think my settings should be nominated to the "Golden Bloodrage Settings" :D
Keep pushing it guys, we need to ravish some records with the Bloodrage and show those snob guys with Classified that a non 500$ board can clock some clocks too :p:.
Hey, guys/gals...
I've removed the resistor out. Heres the thing though, it doesn't look anything like whats in the pictures or before I took it out. It's missing the black top. Did I just smash it off and killed it? Should I buy some replacements lol and could I use these instead, http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...160224w345.jpg
Any help would be awesome.
I know people won't agree with me on this but I actually like it. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
I know this is XS, and we don't talk about daily rigs, but I had 2 9800GX2 and they were actually able to breathe with a full slot space in between them.
I wouldn't dream of cramming 3 dual slot cards into a daily system, in a case, on air. For a realistic daily system, the board layout kind of makes sense and like you say, there's PCI-E risers for those who need.
Great work Patch, wish I had those goggles, my eyesight is only just good enough!
Actually.. "Classified" has almost same design, only difference is one slot gap between top and second PCIe x16 slot.. thats all. Tough, its better than BR.. but doesn't matter that much as all good soundcards are PCIe x1 now. Only problem would be tri-SLi or triple Xfire with dualslot coolers..Quote:
Originally Posted by r1ch
Sorry, but I don't see how it contradicts with having a proper PCI-E X16 alignment ? if you are using 2 cards then you can install them at first and last slots or something similar and that would work easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by r1ch
There is simply no logic in the current layout, really.
Its actually one of the reasons why I wanted to buy the ASUS P6T6 WS Revo, so I wouldn't have to worry about stupid things like PCI-E alignment.
Sorry, but I will have to disagree with you on that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mescalamba
I don't see how the Soundcards are an issue here, most Motherboards have an upper PCI-E X1 slot which you can easily connect Soundcards there and since they don't run very hot, the spacing is not a problem.
BTW, if you really want to have good sound, get an external DACs.
Creative's Soundcards are overrated and aren't that good, not mentioning their drivers which are the worst in the computer industry I have ever came across with by miles.:down:
The-Fox
now some people like the lay out and some people hate
i do like as i uses pci card not pci-e for sound plus raid card as well
I've looked at the other and hate when you got three cards in you not got a slot for anything else
so that to me a a bad design.
but as you know we can fight all day about this and no one is right or wrong
thanks
Yeah, I'm running one and it caused me a lot of problems in the past... :down: Drivers are getting OK now, so hopefully no issues any more.Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
Yep, I agree here. Just hard to make the design that suits everyone. Or all boards would look the same. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Trident
Eh.. well I have 3870 with more than bigger cooler and PCI sound card (yup, Creative .. Audigy 2, quite good it was..). So heat is issue for me and slot spacing too.. If I had "Classified" I wouldn't have this problem..Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
PCI-E x1 .. well, by "good" card I meant Auzentech and their cards, tough their X-Fi Forte is Creative from part.. but its probably best PCIe audio for PCs.
External DAC is great, if you only listen music.. I can hardly expect some EAX from it. :) (Auzentech has full.. eg. EAX 5.0).
Anyway.. its great board still. :D
Well, The thing is the Bloodrage is aimed at Enthusiast people, Extreme cooling and stuff like that, so all the claims regarding compatibility to PCI sound cards and and Raid cards are meaningless.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Trident
Who the hell is going to run 3 or even 4 VGA cards on daily basis ?
We are only talking for Benching purposes and no one is going to use his fancy PCI card or Raid card during Benching.
And if you don't mind, I use a PCI-E Raid card for daily use myself (yahh, the one that still doesn't work with BIOS versions>G13) so i also care about place for my Raid Card but I obviously don't use it while benching.
i've bought bloodrage board for daily use with 24/7 overclock
becoz it has nb-sb-pwm cooling system with stock waterblock over it
or watercooling is only for benching?
as i said this is not worth fighting about
yes i use a raid card and yes i know you raid card does not work as i got one my self that does not
i do know people who run 3 or four cards as there daily machine
i've seem some bencher use there raid card and not the built in
but as i said no one is right or wrong
so lets just drop it
theres no "one fits all" solution there...Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
better tri layout means worse dual layout, especially if its dual plus pci...
to be honest i actually did want to change it later on but the engineers didnt want to... iirc i wanted to swap the pci and the last 16x (8x) slot...
so then you can run tri sli, but when you run 2 cards you either lose the pci slot or you run 16x 8x... i thougt that was accepatble since the perf drop from going 16x 16x to 16x 8x is very small, 1% or so, and people who really care about this would not run a pci soundcard and just get a pciE card... or use a riser pci card for the soundcard...
then again, people who are extreme enough to run 3 or 4 cards are usually extreme enough to use riser cards or watercool their cards, so.... i thought optimizing the slot layout for 2cards would be better... back then the GTX295 was unknown, though a friend at nvidia tipped me off about it and said tri sli was going to be replaced by that...
so i figured the highend in future would be 2 dualgpu cards in quadsli and quadxfire... but the 295 ended up with less memory, less bandwidth and less shader units, probably cause of heat/yields... and tri sli remained strong...
anyhow, way off topic :P
nice work fox!
and djsub, the mem tweaking was mostly done by peter wei!
he did a great job on that :toast:
it could have been even better if only the engineers would have listened more to him...
so the engineers lied to me... nice...Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
i asked them so many times to make sure pciE is not connected to sata... sigh...
Yahh, they lied to you BIG TIME. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by saaya
BTW I just realized its my HDD who loses/cuts connection with the SB as it just won't be recognized at boot when the ICH10R is looking for HDDs.
I might try another HDD as it looks like the HDD is artificially losing the connection at 120Mhz, probably a safety mechanism and I can understand why.
Thanks saaya :DQuote:
nice work fox!
and djsub, the mem tweaking was mostly done by peter wei!
Who is peter wei BTW ?
Anyway he did great job as the AUTO memory settings for BR have been really great, tight and they don't seem to affect stability very much.
He truly did a great work on that.:up:
may you use marvell sas contoller instead ich10?Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
First, I have the GTI version, so no SAS on Board.
But even if I did it wouldn't matter as it still connects to the PCI-E bus which will result in the same issue.
The only way to avoid it is install XP/Vista on a DOK using USB connection or use External HDD.
Or find an HDD which will tolerate higher freq then 120Mhz and hope the data won't get corrupted or the disk to die.
But there is no point in it anyway as there is no benefit in higher PCI-E freq than ~110Mhz.
It works. :clap:
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/9...9baseclock.jpg
My network drivers went freaky at higher PCIE frequencies and I couldn't validate at any higher than 5.1 ghz with 243 baseclock. Any suggestions? Or any suggestions for getting CPUZ 1.51 to validate from saved files?
try cpuz 1.52? :D
its beta, just google for it and youll find a dl :)
just pm franck, hes here on xs a lot (nickname is cpuz)
mhhh i dont remember his online nickname... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
he used to work for abit and then joined foxconn qf after abit went belly up...
im not sure what hes doing now, i think hes in the states now :D
Peter's nickname is welder if I'm not mistaken ;)
Amazing clocks m8 :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Patch
You beat me by 1 Mhz :mad: just kidding :D
237 bClk from boot is nice :D
Anything special with the settings you would like to share ?
BTW, what was your max bClk with QPI on Fast mode ?
Keep pushing it !
yes, welder, thats his nick! :D
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
This was with CPU and NB on DICE.
Didn't want to mention it before without some pics, but I was booting into Windows with 240 baseclock using PCIE at 115 in BIOS. Got up to 250X21 but wasted time trying to get online to validate and didn't bother to get a screenie until it froze. :mad:
Trying to boot with PCIE 116 and above I started to get "white dot syndrome" on the boot screen so I cancelled that outright.
No unusual settings. Lower voltages than I needed to get 4.7 on water before the mod. Left latencies and drives on auto for now. Worked just as well with skews at 0 as it did with up to 200ps in CPU and IOH. Gonna play with that more because I needed 500ps in both to get 4.7 ghz prior to mod on water.
Haven't tried QPI fast-link yet.
Gonna give it a rest for a few days and try to fill up the dewars sometime next week if I can get out of work while they're still open. Maybe LN2 will help get higher.
Then we'll see how this chip and high PCIE frequency does with quadfire. ;)
eked a few more bclock out of my 920 with LN2.
5.27 Ghz 251X21. i7 920 C0 on hard modded Bloodrage.
Benching sucks, though.
Very very nice score :) keep it up ;)
Insane. Great work Patch!Quote:
Originally Posted by Patch
Amazing score Patch !
and that is on C0 chip :eek:
that level is classifiedlike :clap:
Insane! :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by Patch
Uber score, man! :up:
woa thats sick man!
geez, post about that in the xtreme overclocking section! :toast:
thats the second highest bclock ive ever seen! :eek:
the highest was jody with 252 and that was with a d0 and classified...
Lol, I don't have high enough post count to post there.Quote:
Originally Posted by saaya
I'm not griping. Those rules are good. :) I don't post much so it'll take me a while.
Wow man that rocks:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Patch
Is getting the Bclk Mod only needed for going cold or does water/air ever get that high?
I maxed out on water at about 231Mhz bclk so this mod is mostly for cold.
I can't go over 210 with my D0 3845b027 on water..
Emmett
Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Nostromo
Does anyone know if this is correct? Does this mean that the GTI's from Newegg will allow more than 103.4 PCIe adjustment without doing the mod?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Trident
Thanks
no way of knowing if they have new stock or old stock
but hope it new stock
anyone know if it is true that they are essentially "premoded" now, is it only with the GTI or Flamingblade, what's the deal? I heard a rumor and can't really seem to find much to back it up.
As Lord Trident stated, if it's new stock then it should be good to go, if it's older stock then no. Newegg probably has the newest stock, but it's a gamble. Still a great board even without the mod. I looked at it doing the mod, but my hands are not steady enough to do it. It's a shame you can't pay someone to do it for you.
If you went to a local mom&pop style electronics repair shop they could probably do the mod for you. Those guys tend to be quite good with soldering, as that is how they fix 99% of the problems. Well.. not ordering RIGHT this minute, but with the 250$ price on the egg i imagine they are going like hotcakes. Board seems perfect for my benching needs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Oh, by the way, any way of knowing if the board is new stock based on serial if you were to pick one up at a store? And this is only on the GTI version and the new Flamming Blade.. not the regular BR?
My experience with PCI-E mod on Bloodrage...
Before mod: 224MHz bclk was maximum, above 224MHz was a no POST, also above 102MHz of PCI-E frequency was a no POST.
On 224MHz the board was Linx stable.
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_cb2fb80e.jpg
After mod: 230MHz bclk is maximum, on 231MHz board freezes when booting windows, 232MHz is a no POST.
117MHz of PCI-E frequency is maximum now, on 118MHz the board is not recognizing my HDD.
230MHz bclk with 105MHz PCI-E:
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_21415cdf.jpg
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/785414.png
117MHz PCI-E:
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_a25ac604.jpg
I can't get board Linx stable above 225MHz bclk.
Conclusion: i did only get higher bclk for benching and ability to raise PCI-E frequency... nothing else. I'm not happy, but neither am i disappointed. It's still a really great board and i wont change it for some other :)
BIOS version is G25, i'll try P09 these days but i really doubt that it will bring me something more... But maybe im wrong (i hope that i'm wrong :D).
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax999
I hope your wrong too.. :P
Hey Madmax999, how hard was the mod?
I didn't do it, my best friends dad did it because he has much better soldering iron and much more experience in soldering tiny elements then me. He said that he never soldered such a tiny thing and it was pretty hard :D
Anyone want to share some BIOS settings for high BCLK? I broke down and modded my board which was a real PITA that resistor was small. Thanks
That's a good idea, i would be really grateful if someone is going to post his BIOS settings for high BCLK. Maybe i'm doing something wrong because my every attempt to go above 231MHz BCLK is a "no POST" :(
how high can you get in windows?
i think for higher than 230 you have to use setfsb to first bump up pciE some more and then bump up bclock some more.
I can get with 230MHz in Windows :)
You should get way higher ;)
No :banana::banana::banana::banana: Sherlock :D
Then do it, 6mhz isn't much of a gain with mod...
How do you use setfsb to adjust the PCIe frequency? And are you using it to adjust the BCLK too? I cannot seem to find a guide for this program with an I7.
Thanks.
Ok, so I did the mod, it was a B*TCH, yeah I said it, a B*TCH. An hour and a half and I do not see how you could do this with a 15 watt solder gun, had to crank mine up. I think it worked as I was able to change the PCIe to 105Mhz, but then it locked up in the bios. I am pretty sure my timing tables got out of whack when I loaded one of my saved profiles. It happened before and Saaya said that's what he believed happen. It takes a few hours of being unplugged and I should be fine there. I am too tired to mess with it tonight. Hopefully I was able to get a good solder joint, like I said, it's a B*TCH to do and unless you are ready to toss the board in the trash I wouldn't do it.
HAHA! I told you it was not fun! All it takes is a little power outage, some rain, and a lot of patience.
heh, you think that was fun? i just spent 4 hours unsoldering a dvi connector from an old vga and soldering it onto my monitors display controller ^^
it officially only supports vga, but the controller card has everything in place for dvi, theres just no connector there...
at one point i slipped and the solder iron hit the top of one of my fingers. DAYM! it turned yellow/brownish immedialty! :eek:
the center of it is black, as in burned black... there was even some ash when i touched it :S
i should have used a hot air gun, unsoldering all those tiny pins while pushing the pcb higher bit by bit until i could pull the pcb off took forever :confused2:
some pins wouldnt solder properly on the controller, i couldnt find any solder paste so i dont even know if dvi works or not... but vga still works, put the display back together and all is fine, phew, was i relieved :lol:
i hope it works, i really dont wanna have to flash the firmware somehow to support dvi... plus i wouldnt even know where to get it and how to flash...
and another thing im worried about is that some pcb spots are left empty... i hope there arent parts missing that i need to get dvi working...
was a very cool thing to do though and my soldering skills improved notably :D
norris, you shouldnt have to reset your board and leave it rest for hours, never had to do that... just reset cmos and dial it all in manually and there you go.
i think max pciE to boot with is only 105 for most people, or even less than that. and then in windows you crank it up to 108 or so... i think you dont even need that to get to 240+ though... what are your cpu temps? talk to r1ch, he got 25x bclock so he should be able to get you some tips... if hes not too busy...
Yeah, I didn't mention the burn. Just a small oe, but it woke me up. Anyway, yeah, this board has a mind of it's own. I kept stopping at bios code 50, which I believe is memory, so I went through all the troubleshooting steps messing with that and nothing. Thought maybe I had screwed something up, but went back to basics and undid everything including the keyboard. Only then did it boot and give me keyboard error, from there everything was good, like there was no issues, still don't know what it was, but after an hour or so I did get it back up and running. Good thing I had gotten some sleep and restored my patience, cause it is paying off. So far I have hit 231BCLK booted into Windows and it's not crashing, although I am not benching yet, have to work, so I just wanted to get it up and running. P09 gives me all types of misreadings from voltages to temps, so I will probably flash to G25 and try that. But anyway, I did get a validation, but I haven't gotten the link yet, so it may not have properly submitted, no worries, this was just play time. The next few days will be interesting to see where I can go with this CPU. I have the I7 975 coming and once it is here I should be able to go way past what my 920 does. I was worried that the mod was not going to work since I couldn't tell if the solder had taken, but it does. Now to work out the kinks. By the way, the 231 was at x21 so it was 4.8Ghz, not bad, not great, but not bad. Should help me push past 21K on Vantage. Also, my memory was at 1856Mhz at 7-7-7-16-1t, so not bad there either. For my first solder mod it's not bad.
Bah now i've got to do it! Any tips mate?
Not convinced itll help me immeadiately as my 950 hates bclk and my 920 is now sold, still i've a d0 w3520/920 incoming soon so it'll be needed then.
Don't drop the resistor!Quote:
Originally Posted by PiLsY
Here is my validation for 231BCLK by the way:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=794165
@ Pilsy here are some tips:
1 - Make sure you are not tired so you have enough patience, you will get frustrated trying to put this little resistor in place.
2 - A magnifying glass with it's own holder is handy (glasses would be better) so you can see it better.
3 - A really fine tip for your soldering iron and 15 watts is not enough, I had to crank it up past 65 watts before it would melt the solder. If you have a steady hand then you can wait for the solder to melt, I do not so the higher voltage allowed me to melt the solder that was already on the board quickly.
4 - A sewing pin to hold the resistor in place while you solder one side. Once one side is done the other is easier.
5 - Plenty of light on the spot.
6 - You may want to try using solder paste instead, but I just used what was on the spot already.
7 - Patience, can't emphasize this enough.
Good luck, well worth it. I had a hard time overclocking to 225BCLK on the Classified, on the BR with this mod, 231BCLK was easy. This is why I think I can go higher, just need the time to mess with it.
Latest results with Bloodrage and i7 920 (i did that yesterday on balcony with air temp ~10°).
Max overclock with HT Off:
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/797753.png
Max overclock with HT On:
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/797785.png
Max BCLK:
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/785414.png
It just won't go any higher.
Super Pi 1M - 8.500s
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_22cb8681.jpg
PiFast - 17.67s
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_94827075.jpg
These results are achieved with just basic tweaks of windows, they are made just to see what processor can do.
Temperatures on 24/7 overclock @ idle:
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_6b9182c8.jpg
Next (obvious) step: new motherboard :D
Really nice clocks there dude - very impressed! The HT clock is especially good. Are those stable at all or just screenshots?
Had a practice on a dead DFI DK P35 T2RS last night.
Have a slight melt in my fingernail on my left forefinger, but otherwise unscathed.
My 12w iron does OK on the DFI solder, fingers crossed for the BR. Doing the GTI first, will attempt it tonight if I don't drink, tomorrow if it all goes party shaped. Trying to hold off for an i7 930 for the GTI but im feeling the pull of a 920/3520 just to get the build going.
Thnx m8 :up:
4560MHz is max stable for 3DMark 06 and all other 3DMarks. My opinion is that CPU temperature is too high (it goes to around 75° @ load) so because of that processor can't go higher for 3D benching. I'm waiting for colder days (temperatures under -10-15°) :)
That's my 3DMark 06 score with GTX280 (HT On):
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_3aab154a.jpg
And that's Aquamark 3 (HT Off):
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_4b761382.jpg
With better motherboard i can certainly get higher CPU clocks. Bloodrage is unfortunately unstable above 224MHz BCLK for 3D benching. :(
Some new information...
<3 P09 BIOS :)
227MHz BCLK Linx stable (with G25 was 224MHz):
http://www.imagesforme.com/thumb/thumb_45090fde.jpg
232MHz max BCLK (with G25 was 230MHz).
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/802801.png
Can someone pls share his voltage settings for 235+ MHz BCLK?
Thnx
Wow this thread just died. Since I finally locked down a decent DO chip 3939B078 said to do 4.7 on mild water. So we will see what she will do for Project Slumber Parties. It would be nice to see some updates to this thread since the last post was around when I purchased my Rage. Is it just me or are there actual people from Foxconn that were in this thread? Just kinda curious on if my board since it was purchased Nov 09 if it might already have the mod done. Mine is still sitting in the box under my desk. Seems like a waste of money since its been 4 months and hasn't been used. That warranty is just going away. :-( It would get put to use by this weekend if the powdercoater I was using for PSP wouldn't be getting his A$$ drug into small claims court for screwing up my case. So I have just about everything for the build now just no case.
I can't start over on the case yet because I need the evidence for court. So yea my warranty is just dwindling away. :-( Really pisses me off wish I could get and extension on it and my Enermax Revolutions 1050w psu that is still brand new box also collecting dust. :-(
Not sure that I got what you meant. And yes, there were few ppl from Foxconn, Saaya was one of them.
I dont know what you want from this thread. :) You have here "how-to", so just grab equip and do it.. or leave it. :)
Well it was written in english stating that I was wondering if the newer boards already have this changed as there was talk in the much earlier posts about it being done in a new revision. So That was my main question I was asking. Also others asked if this "mod" would void the warranty considering it should technically have been done already by Foxconn that also was never answered. Then there were people talking about doing more tests and trying things out, but all of a sudden the thread just died and no one revisited with any more information:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mescalamba
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/1807/eek.gif Wow thats seems really interesting. Thnx for sharing ...
There are no "newer" BR. BR is no longer manufactured, only BR GTi, which should have this mod from fabric.. but not sure about that, ask someone who has it.
If you do that mod and BR will work after that, your warranty is intact, also not sure if its still available, but Foxconn RMA did this mod for you, if you asked politely.. But as I say, not sure about now.
Well I pulled mine apart to change the tim and decided to attempt the mod. The link in the first post doesn't work so I'm kinda stuck and don't know which one to move. :-(
The Intel chip under the shield has some serious crap tim on it. I had to scrape it off with my fingernail to get it off. The chip under where the multi option cooling goes doesn't even have any tim. So I'm going to put some on it and the other locations also. Gelid GC Extreme. I assume just reuse the thermal pads on the other two locations.
It would be nice for the link that shows what to do still worked though. :-(
Here you go - the article:
http://www.benchtec.co.uk/2009/06/12...-and-bclk-mod/
An another forum thread:
http://www.nexthardware.com/forum/mo...-bclk-mod.html
And the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TWRwLvN1Kw
Good luck :).
Thanks. Could have done without the music though. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by therager
Although I see no need to use extra solder. I've been pretty fortunate with things like this in using what is already available. :shrug:
Wonderful Tweazers my #$@!!!
Anyone know what the number is for that sucker from Radio Shack?
I'm skimming the post to see if anyone lists it. :mad:
Any change you know any more information about the dang little $#$$@$@Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Fox
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk....dll?Selection
There are 990 different surface mount resistors that are 100OHM.
Damn why didn't I listen to myself and not use the freaking tweezers. :shakes:
You should add some Pb-containing solder (like on the video) to lower melting temperature of mb Pb-free solder. Otherwise resistor removal is almost impossible with regular soldering-iron.Quote:
Originally Posted by scgt1
Ok it seems the only key value for this use is the 100 ohm. I've got an old hard drive laying around. I'm not the greatest with a voltage meter. I know red goes on the ohm plug and black to com. The settings I have are 20M, 2M, 200K, 20K, 2K->+, 200. Ideally I would think it needs to be on the 200. Although I've tried measuring others on the mobo around the mod area and I'm getting different values on many while some are measuring the same. So does anyone know what other resistors on the bloodrage are 100 ohm and their location so I can pull the same reading to see what it needs to say to test the hard drive resistors?
Another thing I don't know if my meter works properly which could cause a big problem with this. If I have it hooked up as above and set it on 200 I'm left with a 1 on the left of the screen then a small 200 off to the right at the bottom with a decimal right above it. Then if I touch the leads I'm left with 00.0 on the screen for a reading. Which ideally it should be 0 I think, but the decimal is off by one. Meaning I don't think there should be a decimal there.
hmmm depends on the iron, isnt the melting point of ROHS solder only ~10C higher?Quote:
Originally Posted by therager
I used some $20 Radioshack special and have done xbox work and inverter board fuses on a viewsonic monitor. I had no problem just heating up the solder and using the pick to remove the resistor.Quote:
Originally Posted by saaya
Just those damn tweezers that have so far screwed me out of a bloodrage. :mad:
Depends on the solder type mainly, but the typical difference is about 50-60*C :):Quote:
Originally Posted by saaya
http://www.empf.org/empfasis/jan05/lfaudit.htm
http://www.empf.org/empfasis/jan05/i...udittable1.gif
Also if someone uses uncontrollable soldering-iron, the only way to lower melting temperature is to add Pb-containing solder :).Quote:
Hand soldering processes
Even for hand soldering, the processing differences between tin lead and lead free must be considered. The solder tip must be adjusted to the higher temperatures required. For lead free solders, the EMPF found that the solder tip temperature needed to be set between 343°C / 650°F and 371°C / 700°F as opposed to 315°C / 599°F for tin lead solders. Temperatures higher than 398°C / 750°F were considered unnecessary for most hand soldering applications.
depends what you solder with :DQuote:
Originally Posted by therager
ive been using a 25W iron for a few mods heheheh :D
I've done the mod on my board today.
Was able to boot into windows with pci frequency set at 114mhz, didn't bother trying any higher because that's all i've ever needed for 250bclks on my other boards.