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Small update on the first page - now includes a quick guide to sata data
cables.
Also includes two pics that were created by Moogle to better help explain what you are trying to achieve when removing pins. Thanks Moogle :up:
I love that this keeps being added to with other peoples experience - thats what this is all about. :up:
No problems matey :wave:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangals
Anything to help people better understand the process :up:
These are a few photos that I took from my sleeving of temp probes, 1/8th inch sleeving and 1/8th inch heatshrink... forgot to take a few photos of the other end after it was finished, I've still got plenty of time before this build is finished, so I'll try to remember to take some more photos of the other side...I make ZERO claim to be anywhere near Pro at the art of cable sleeving, but my little experience so far leads me to believe that Performance PCs uses 1/4th inch heatshrink for sleeving fans
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/IMG_2413.jpg (before the heatshrink was shrunk)
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/IMG_2416.jpg (after the heatshrink was shrunk)
how do you guys think I did? that was the last cable I did of the 4 temp probes
So I still cant get the pins out, so i thought I would make some pics. Im using giant staples so they stick out pretty far but here you go:confused:
http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2346879qw7.jpg
http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3094634oi3.jpg
Any help would be great:yepp::yepp::yepp:
they're on two sides.. I've personally never worked with non molex connectors for female connectors...but you might want to try the other sides
I've just ordered 24m of braiding:rofl: Hopefully should have enough !!
I know the feeling I ordered myself over 40m worth of braiding.
It's like an addiction now :P
lol I just bought 500ft (152m) of sleeve for my next build - 250ft of the inner layer and 250 of the outer :PQuote:
Originally Posted by N19h7m4r3
The last time I tried to sleeve something the hardest part was getting the damn wire through the sleeve. Probably took half an hour to get the fan wires through the sleeve and in the end the sleeve looked too loose. Any tips there?
Use a compress and pinch method. Hold the wire and braid (wire inside the braid a bit, you can hold multiple cables) with your left hand (can do the same method with your right hand etc), with your right hand pinch some braid further up where you want the wire to go. Move your right hand to the left until you can grab some fan pins or cables and try and pinch them too. The braid is now expanded in diameter and when you let go with your left hand it will slide further down your wire. Repeat until the pins are through the other end. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xope_Poquar
if i understand you correctly,is the end of the wire catching on the sleeving?Quote:
Originally Posted by Xope_Poquar
i had the same problems,and wrapped a small piece of masking tape on the end,and all was good!!
500 ft ??? :eek: hmm, i think you understood something wrong. you donīt have to wrap the hole case like a mummy.... :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
sorry... ;)
checkout my worklog, I have sample pics of a sleeved wire, It's absolutely dirty (awesome looking)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tremeloes
I will be sleeving every single wire in my case individually :D
Thanks but not quite. It was like there was no way to apply force so the wires would get through. They'd just crumple up in the middle area. The sleeve seemed too tight but in the end the look seemed too loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtf2
depends on what kind of sleeving you've got, but the bunch up, pull through, let loose again, tricks for me
I'll probably end up having to order another 15-20 feet (if not more) of the 1/8th black/red tracer before I'm done this build
edit...I'll stand corrected..it's quarter inch sleeving that I've been using...so...1/8th inch heatshrink can...with enough effort...get sleeved over 1/4th inch sleeving
Sniipe_Dogg! Noooo, you make me want to buy more braiding!
It's a curse and pleasure, my only problem is my PSU sucks and I can't replace it so I'm terrified I'll start sleeving it only to have to replace the bugger :'(
Also Sniipe, wow Love your build!
i checked out your worklog. looks like you are going to do something like that.... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
http://www.abload.de/thumb/_mg_8218hbqq.jpg http://www.abload.de/thumb/_mg_8222z2up.jpg http://www.abload.de/thumb/_mg_82236940.jpg http://www.abload.de/thumb/_mg_8204eepz.jpg
thanks man, its going to hit full throttle in november, at the moment nothing is even happening by comparison ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by N19h7m4r3
ah tremolos you are and inspiration in a way for this build at least as far as the sleeving is concerned, although I couldnt get that nice filter pet like you :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Tremeloes
so i have decided after reading through this thread that i'm going to sleeve everything in my next build, i mean everything, so to sleeve just the PSU itself i'm gonna need about 200ft of 1/8" sleeving and a bunch of heatshrink. for the fans that have the two wires sticking out of them what size do you recommend, 1/4" or 3/8"??? that is the only one i do not know what size i will need. I even decided to change out all the connectors to UV green as well but can't seem to find any PCIe 8-pin uv green ones, can someone point me to some, all i can find is CPU 8 pin
1/8th can work, Performance PCs uses 1/4th inch for fans though
I just received a murderMod MDPC-X Psychopack and it's everything I could have asked for and more. Seriously, look at how much cable sleeving you get.
One of the best parts about this kit is that it has everything I want in it, without the guessing game to whether I'm going to be happy with the sleeve, size and the quantity of sleeve I receive. I think it's even a great priced kit too.
http://www.murdermod.com/
Here are some of my pictures.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/IMG_2342.png
ATX Pin Removal Tool:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/IMG_2347.png
I ordered that also, glad to see how good it looks :D
Going to be a happy bunny once I start sleeving.
the heatshrunk pin removal tool makes me giggle
I'd look at something like that..But I'm more of a...keep them grouped together, rather than individual sleeving (partially due to the amount of patience it would take to individually sleeve) and most of the sleeving I'm doing on this build is in the form of fan extensions/ front panel connectors
Don't know if anyone else had this problem but I had trubs getting heatshrink over the pins on a sleeving mod I did.
I found that by sliding the heatshrink over some pin nose pliers and opening them slightly made the heatshrink 'baggy' at one end.
Doing this doesn't seem to have a negative effect on the shrinking process either.
Excellent thread/guide Dangals.
hm...I'll have to try that trick once I get in more of my sleeving
Nice kit eh? ;)
...Is that an earplug in the background... LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
LOL yeah, it's an earplug. Safety first! ;)
I thought it was funny, but it just protects the pins on the tool from being damaged.
You spent $60 on a sheathing kit :eek:
Never underestimate the power of a name...I gotta hand it to MurderMods. They have made a career out of one mod :up:
Also, I find it impossible to find sleeving anywhere near the same quality as they have.
Specially anywhere that ships to ireland at a reasonable price.
At first I thought that their sleeving kit was overpriced, but after comparing with some Techflex stuff with about the same sizes and lenghts, I found out that mMod's sleeving kit is quite the same price as the standard stuff, if not cheaper... and no doubt the quality must be better. So... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
I'm quite sure that Charles and Nils were quite diligent in the pricing of their sleeving kits. I know that the quality is second to none, and you are right, considering the amount of sleeving you receive, it is a much better value then some of the stuff you can get at other big box PC E-tailers.Quote:
Originally Posted by -Gab
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
There are a few reasons that I believe that enthusiastic users like ourselves would want a product like the Murdermod MDPC-X Sleeving.
For starters, it's the highest quality sleeving that has been seen. I can compare it to my Techflex PET sleeving and it's much better. The differences aren't night and day, but to the enthusiast where details matter, the differences can make or break the look of the build. The weaving is much tighter and each strand is at a greater angle to each other creating much less space for light to pass through.
Another great thing you get with these kits is the amount of sleeving. When I was looking into buying Techflex the costs were ramping up. I had various orders from different retailers and at the end of the day it was going to cost a lot more and I didn't even know what I was going to get.
Pricing was a big issue for me, but MurderMod has nailed it. It's priced less than competitors and you get a vast amount of the highest quality sleeving.
For instance, with the murderMod MDPC-X Psychopack you get all this:
* 100' of MDPC-X 11/64" custom diameter sleeve
* 12' of 3:1 heatshrink for our 11/64" sleeve
* 12' of MDPC-X custom diameter SATA sleeve
* 24" of 3:1 heatshrink for our SATA sleeve
* 6' of MDPC-X 5/8" custom diameter sleeve
* 12" of big 3:1 heatshrink for PCI-E cable transitions
* 7" of jumbo 2:1 heatshrink for ATX cable transitions
That is a lot of sleeving. No other pre-made pack comes close to that.
On another note, getting to be good friends with Charles, I know he's constantly working on new ideas and new products. I'm sure the trend will continue and he will keep pushing out great products that push the edge of marvelous designs.
The price in North-America was compared and targeted to be significantly lower than the mod-shops that offer not-so-good Flexo-PET and sometimes not even 3:1 shrink and on equal level as extremly specialized cable-shops that offer CC. Even that the diameters are - at least to me - not so usable in a PC-enviroment.
Even compared to simple Flexo-PET that the well known mod-shops offer it is cheaper. Still the heatshrink is a big issue - you can't compare 3:1 with 2:1. Everyone can compare how much an equal setup costs at different places in North-America. The result is obvious to everyone who wants to see the truth - this is more than a very fair offer.
LogAn'sRun: This example is perfect. 69,95 to 113 for an equal setup in Germany but to the other side than you might expect ;). We had this in Germany for so many months until everyone understood what the real deal is. It won all the reviews in Germany. Do I want to pay more for less? No. Sorry for being precise :) All the best!
Dangals, good job mate! :up: I also picked up a tip or two. Thank you starting this thread.
Aj Aj Aj- don't get testy! :p: I'm not saying nor have i said that MM's stuff is not worth it, just pointing out alternatives. Plus most of us (ok me then) have sleeving already or perhaps need to sleeve only 1-2 wires more, so yes, in this instance buying MM's kit is certainaly not worth it, when TF Germany can send me a couple meters in the mail for under 7 euros.Quote:
Originally Posted by dualbrain
If and when MM decides to offer by the meter, then we can compare apples to apples, and not apples to apple trees. . .
And when that happens, I'll be one of the first to order a couple of meters because it seems like I'm always doing something. . .(LOL)
And you too, All the best (your products are simply inspiring)
Nice Guide and that Mmods cabling kit is spectacular. As soon as I start my build I'm gonna pull everything apart and re-sleeve my case, and PSU with stuff. I like the quality and look of stuff. The PCPC 750w Quad is presleeved as are alot of other PSU's but I hate the fact that you can see the ugly black, yellow and red cabling through the sleeving. (Nothing against Germany, my GF was born there and it's a good country :D) This kid stands out to me as the top dog and I have no issues paying the $60 for it especially if it's going to make me be happy with the look of my build.
argh, either I'm blind, or I just can't find it..but what's the best reccomended diameter for heatshrinking SATA data cables?
id say 8-9 mm sleeving, the closest thing we got here in the US is 3/8 which is alittle too largeQuote:
Originally Posted by DragoonXX
I measure the width of this data cable connector at 15mm, about 5mm thick, good thing i've got a few more months before I have the money to finish my new build...I've now got a lot of heatshrink..some of it im not sure im ever honestly going to use...thought quarter inch would have been big enough to fit...i was SoL...I'll wait for a few more suggestions before hunting anything specific down
I just want to thank everyone that has contributed to this thread, you guys are awesome:up:
Approximately 96 feet of MDPC-X Sleeving, many hours of work, and a little bit of love I present to you the fully sleeved Corsair 1000HX. :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/IMG_2595.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/IMG_2599.png
A quick procedure on how I did each cable.
1. Cut 2 heatshrink lengths 20mm each.
2. Use staple in U shape, hold with pliers, put on outer edges of the pin in socket and push gently until all the way in.
3. Gently pull on wire until it pops out, sometimes this required a bit more force than I expected.
4. Slide on 1 piece of heatshrink
5. Slide the sleeving over the cable and tighten it once about 2 inches from the desired length.
6. Cut sleeving past the end of the connector.
7. Slide the rest of the sleeving into desired position.
8. Slide the heatshrink on.
9. Shink the connector side of the heatshrink so that the heatshrink is just over the first piece of metal on the connector.
10. Let cool.
11. Stretch the sleeving as tight as you can get it.
12. Shrink the opposite end heatshrink.
13. Insert new sleeved cable into connector, pops out the staple.
Repeat per cable. I hope that was detailed enough on what I did.
omg :eek: amazing work! appreciate the tips at the end too
One summer I might want to do this...I can't believe some of you guys have this much time, or do many of you just sleeve for an hour and split it over many many days?
Maybe this summer I'll buy a new PSU and get sleeving. One Gatorade and a lot of patience should get me through it!
still wondering what diameter heatshrink is best for heatshrinking over SATA Data cables
Sleeving each 24pin cable separate took me about 3ish hours and it was my FIRST sleeving job I had ever done :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MINIz guy
Blue Aqua---> how many sleeving kits u used for that?
That's beautiful.
I purchased a Murdermod kit from Charles and Nils.... and I plan on following your guide to a "T".
how difficult are the individual ATX cables to remove? I have a feeling I'm going to be a bit scared to break them....
I sleeved my SATA cables with the sleeving from the MDPC-X Psychopack. It fits the SATA cable perfectly. This is how it came out:Quote:
Originally Posted by DragoonXX
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/IMG_2464.png
Just a single Psychopack.Quote:
Originally Posted by non
Each cable might require a little bit of force to remove. It can get tricky with the tool in one hand and the cable in the other and trying to provide enough force to remove the pin. I used a staple which allowed me to just leave it in there and use both hands for an easy removal of the pin.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlef
It takes some practice but you'll feel like a pro in no time.
@BlueAqua: very very nice work BA! :up: i wish i knew how to get the shrink tubes thru the ends of the SATA cables & would fit that snuggly as yours
blue aqua-->that's a lot of 1/4 sleeves for a single pack. It is 1/4 for 24 pin & pciex cable right?...anyway it's beautifully done:up: Im planning to sleeve the pciex & 24 pins on my olympia, but since i just finished with the molex cable & it requires the almost all of 1/4 of my vizo kits , i think i need to purchase another kit. Thanx 4 the guide man..
Well, i should be getting my pack in tomorrow, so we'll see how long it takes lol I'd put a decent estimate at... um.... lol, 4-5 hours?Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
And, for the MurderMod Sleeving, could I use a lighter flame to heat the shrink or is that too risky? (obviously without the flame touching the shrink...)
The secret is to find heat shrink that is just large enough to fit over the connector and have the highest shrinkage (3:1).Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
how do we get that kind of info?Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
I would say it will take 4 hours or so your first time. I could probably do one in 2-3 hours now. Just try to develop a consistent method that works for you and you'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlef
A lighter will work, just try to keep the tip of the flame away from the heatshrink so it doesn't melt it. I used the low heat setting of my heat gun to slowly shrink it so it really doesn't need the highest heat. Try to keep the heat even over and around each piece of sleeving for the best and most even shrinkage.
Most of the good kits or heat shrink should state it in their product information. If they don't, assume that it's 2:1. That's something I've noticed with various kits. The MurderMod packs have mostly 3:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by non
That's another great aspect of the MurderMod sleeving kits. It has everything you need to do a great job. If you're going to spend a few hours doing something you're going to want to be happy with the results. If you start with the highest quality product then you have greatest chance to complete it with the highest standards.
@mattlef: You go with the lower part of the lighterflame "through" the heatshrink in a pending movement. 2 seconds in and out and then do a break of 3 seconds. This way the heatshrink gets not "blackened" because of grime (is that the right word?) that is created above a flame. Twist the cabel/heatshrink combo a litte and you get a perfect and quick result. Heatguns I just use on huge heatshrinks.
@non and all that want to know the heatshrink diameter for SATA: 1/2 inch is the way to go, because it just fits over the connector and then shrinks perfect to tightly grip the sleeving on the SATA cable. Of course 3:1 is needed, because 2:1 will not grip the sleeve good enough at all :)
There are so many details that then make a difference again, even if the right sizes are known, that I could talk for hours what makes the difference between perfection and "it fits". After a long time, lots of different products and finally customizations in production, I got what I needed.
Sorry if my english is funny, but I try my best :)
Blue--> Ok, thanx
dualbrain--> thanx 4 the lighter trick. Because sometimes my heatshrink get blackened
Anyway, I just finished molex cable and having hard time slipping the staple to plugg off pcie. Still working on that, maybe at weekend i'll give it a try again. Thanx for all the tips guys
I'm having trouble doing this. I've tried staples and tools but either way the pins don't want to come loose. How hard should I be pulling?
not too hard. When you unlatch them properly, they come right out.Quote:
Originally Posted by reasons
Using the staple I had to ensure that it was all the way in. It's something you're going to have to mess with to get just right. I had to put more force on it than I imagined. Just make sure the tool or staple is all the way in and straight. Give it a bit more force than you think. Try that.Quote:
Originally Posted by reasons
I got a bunch of new pins and wires from performance-pcs for a PSU mod but this is just soooooooo much work I keep procrastinating. I've never had trouble getting pins out though.
Well the tool broke so I'm down to staples. I don't think they can go anymore in, they are a bit further than the picture on the first page. I can jiggle the wire back and forth a few mm but nothing more. I've gone as far as to wrap the cable around my finger and pull to no avail.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
Is it possible for you to take a picture of the cable with the staple inserted - will give us a better idea of what could be going wrong - also make sure that when inserting the staples that the prongs go on the outside of the pin in the connector.Quote:
Originally Posted by reasons
It'll be a bad phone picture (yay dorms!), but I'll get one up in a few.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangals
I just used the broken tool for the picture as I'm almost out of staples. That is as far as it went when it was not broken. Sorry again about the quality.
http://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?im...2082152sq2.jpg
http://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?im...2082153he9.jpg
When using the staples I found a pair of pliers to be very handy. It allowed me to put more pressure on the staple to get it all the way in.
reasons, it looks like the tool is all the way in which is good. I had some troubles with the tool myself and went straight to the staple. I then used the same staple for the rest of the psu. I think the staple is slightly thicker than the tool pins which will put more pressure on each side the the pin tabs. Even when pulling the cable out I felt a little pop. Don't give up, the benefits will be worth it.
Just had more time today to try. It took a lot more force than I thought it would. Now just ~90 more to go. :)
How bad is it if you break one of the fins off? The cable still holds just fine.
Depends...I've broken one off before accidently and thought it was secure until i went to plug it in and it just pushed out, and a few others that were fine..I'd say give it a test plug in wherever it goes, and if it pushes back out, you'd need to fix it, otherwise I'd say you're probably fine
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...01mod/psu2.jpg
what do you think?
just doing the ATX cable took around 2 hours lol :S that and now my fingers are all sliced to hell too lol
Looking good there mattlef, just wish I had the patience to do this kind of work. Keep it up! :)
It works fine. If it didn't though how would I fix it?Quote:
Originally Posted by DragoonXX
depends on what tools you have access to... some super glue on the inside might work enough to keep it from not pushing back out
I will start sleeving my Enermax Liberty today!! I think I will also use the staples or maybe build some remover out of an old screwdriver or whatever...we'll see...I got some old ATX-PSUs to test... :d
Man, this was harder than I thought
First, I bought the Sunbeam PSU modding tool kit
For molex pins (|), is hard but I figured it worked better first with one hand holding the cable, then pushing the tool all the way in (spinning it a little, make sure you push the cable to the opposing direction of the tool so you make sure the pin wont open up) until you feel like a click, then just pull the cable.
For molex connectors (O), is the samething, its even easier as it comes out easier with less strength.
For PCI_Ex connectors, I used the 2-pin tool, that was a lot easier.
Now I recommend if its your first time doing this, use your cables that came with your videocard that you are probably not even using. I managed to brake a couple of pins but Im glad I didnt brake the ones on my PSU.
Good job mattlef. It's a process, but definitely worth it.
slim142, I couldn't get my Sunbeam tool with the 2 pins on it to work at all for me. It was incredibly difficult, but once I got to using the staple it couldn't have gone any smoother.
Anyone ever sleeved a silverstone strider? Im having hell getting these pins out, tried staples 3 different tools and push pins!
I might try the 2-clip trick to compare the processes. Thx for the tipQuote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
damnit i cant do this. im trying to do it on a corsair 650w and i just cant get the staple in the right place
Yeah, that's happening to me tooQuote:
Originally Posted by jdmR
Can any experienced one give us more tips how to slip the staples?:D
Nah way man, I use my teeth :lol2:Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
Here's the work I've done today:
First I built myself an apropiate pin-remover:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt1.jpg
This is how it looks when I started:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt2.jpg
During work:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt3.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt4.jpg
And then I finished my powersupply. I also changed the grill for a black one:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt5.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt6.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt7.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...Unbenannt8.jpg
I'm really happy with the result, the selfmade pin-remover works like a charm, nothing bend or broken, took me no more than 10 minutes with my dremel to make!!
Tomorrow I will sleeve the PCIe-wire and some more wires, I allready made the SATA-wires...
I used 1/4" Techflex Flexo PET together with some 3:1 heatshrink in different sizes, all of them have glue inside, which helps a lot IMO...
@GrossmeisterB - AWESOME!!! No pre-made tool gets the job done? Make your own! That's the modder way of doing things!:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by GrossmeisterB
What did you use to make the tool? Looks kinda like a small screwdriver with a slot cut into the tip, but the picture is a little dark.
I WANT THAT TOOL. itll probably my life a hell of alot easier. i still havent been able to get one out with a damn staple
Hehe, thanks a lot guys!! I would have ordered the "AC Ryan Pin Remover", but it's sunday, all shops closed, and I wanted that thing done today, so I thought "what could I use to make a pin remover"?? So I found that little screwdriver - they are quite common over here, you get them everywhere for one euro or less, they have built in little light, which lights up when you put it into the wall outlet and touch the metal back with your finger, so you know there's voltage on there...
I took my dremel and made that slot into the middle, tested it 2 or 3 times, and then it was finished - works like a charm!!!
So, if you have a Dremel and an old screwdriver - go for it!! The metal those screwdrivers are made of seems to be a lot better than the brass the AC Ryan Pin Remover is made off...brass is a hard but brittle metal, this chrome-vanadium steel the screwdriver is made of is hard as well, but by far less brittle than brass...
EDIT: If you want I can write up a little "guide" how to make your own one?But I think it's quite obvious how you will have to do this?!
Sure, I'd be interested in a "guide" for making one, I might end up doing some sleeving on my family computer down the road. as is, with mine I'm sticking primarily with the stock sleeving/flat black cables (HX520)
how about u make me one and ill buy it LOL
Ill buy one too :D
group buy anyone?!?!?!!? heheh :D
LOL, I just have 3 or 4 of those screwdrivers left, and it's REALLY easy to make if you have a Dremel or whatever!!!!!
But I'll post up a guide once I have a few minutes left :)
thats the thing. i have no dremel. i dont trust these hands of mine!
Oh, that's bad...but I think shipping costs will be at least 10x of what that thing is worth...^^
I GOT THE STAPLE TO WORK. zomg after 3 days...i fail. but i feel like a winner. here i come :D
Congrats man!!
I'm really happy that my selfmade thing worked so well, I just have to build a tool for those 4-pin-5,25"-plugs... :-P
i found the staple trick to work with two staples
yep thats what I found as well - as mentioned in the original guide :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmR
Great to hear that you have had some success with it - now we just need some pics of your handy work :yepp:
question for those of you who have the 24pin main connector sleeved indivually, do you have them seperate from the where it comes out of the power supply or do you have them bunlded together and then split up about half way, same question applies for others like the 8-pin, 6-pin and molex type stuff, i was thinking that doing each wire individually might be a little tedious and messy when done, course if i don't like the look of it after could always get some zipties and take care of the bundling that way. Your thoughts please
I have done it both ways and personally I prefer doing it the whole way. I guess it will come down to a combination of what looks best for your build mixed with personal preference.Quote:
Originally Posted by moose517
Here is an example of the one that I did that is 50/50
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/Dangals/back.png
In this shot you can see the 24pin cable which is done 50/50 and the 8 pin cable which is done the whole way. For every other cable in the case they are all sleeved individually.
Hope that helps :up:
no work done yet, havent order the sleeves yet since i wasnt sure if i could do it! LOL
Hey guys
I just finished sleeving my cables. I spent the whole saturday sleeving this three cables (plus a couple of fans and pump), it was long but it ended up as I wanted them!
Check them out
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC01709.png
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC01708.png
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC01711.png
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC01710.png
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Thanks a lot Dangals for such a nice tutorial!
If this helps anybody, all I needed was Sunbeam PSU modding tool kit, ~50 feet of 1/8 of Techflex sleeving, ~10 feet of black heatshrink, scissors, two pins (those for weaving so you can remove the ATX pins) and a lighter (only for black sleeving/heatshrinks or else you will burn colored ones)
I recommend you buy extensions because you never know when you might change your PSU and this extensions will surely help you in the future!
Looking good, slim142.
Thx man! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by zlojack