This really does just keep getting better amd better and better
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This really does just keep getting better amd better and better
Wow that is a work of art, it would be great to remove the heat with a maze 4 on each pelt (3 maze 4's)so you could use both blocks as chillers, seems like a waste to have one for heat removal.
Also with a drop that low, i still think it should have been a double pass, with those numbers I think it would not have impacted the water drop to much. But you would have gained 2 pass over the cool side and that would be big in the chilling numbers...
I love it!
it is looking really good martin!!
Wow this is beautiful, Martin you are truely a artistic engineer. I am really hoping that this performs as well as it looks.
lol... as i said martin, im in no rush. Your work is definitely worth the wait!Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Damn thats looking good.
A bit to big for my tastes.
Cool project and great mill work martin! :up:
More pictures
Cool! I've been working on a similar setup. I have a 70x210x20mm block of copper for the TEC's radiator side and when I get the bucks will get more copper to make the blocks for the CPU/GPU loop side.
Want to save cost? Why not alu coldplate on hot side, and alu rad or something from koolance? Hahaha not the best but would work. Or make your own aluminum cpu blocks, thin base, impingement or something or high end maze. Could make yourself a rather high quality kit setup for quite cheap.
:down: LOL nol.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
You should know me by now.
One thing i hope to pick up this XMAS is a Phase unit from you. :P
Basically i like elite things, unfortunately, they cost a lot. :T
If cost is a big concern, trying out multiple used blocks might be cheaper than milling your own.
eg. sandwiching a couple MCW5002's, 6002's, Maze4's or even some ancient MCW462's/Maze3's with a TEC in between.
Just (if needed) sand down the pressure "bumps," lap 'em, bolt a TEC between 'em, insulate, and away you go. I have no idea what Martin charges for milling in comparison, but 4 blocks could probably be bought for around $80-$100 shipped.
It won't look as cool or fit as nicely, but things usually don't when cost is a concern (ie. function over form) ;)
Then i would of dropped a phase unit. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by THE JEW (RaVeN)
i want some bling factor. Plus this concept has been in my head for a while. Now i can test it to see how it needs tweeking or if it fails completely.
Great concept, I like the idea... Thank you for prying me from the LC section to see this :p:
Martinm210, great work of art as usual. Listen to the devil on your shoulder and get those stepper motors :devil:
Too bad i have not seen the thread earlier, i might have saved you lots of work and inevitable frustration.
Sorry guys, this concept will not work. I thought about this, how to make the TEC more efficient my removing most of the heat with plain air radiator and then cooling the water with relatively small TEC. But this is not going to work.
The formula for waterblock (as well as radiator ) in/out water delta is:
dT= 0.85 * W / F,
dT -water delta in K,
W - total power absorbed/released by water in second, in Watts.
F -water flow in L/H .
Lets take for example one 437W TEC, and lets assume it operates close to its maximum efficiency, i.e. its cold/hot side difference is close to 0 K. For typical flow 1gpm=230L/h, the water will be cooled by
0.85*437/230= 1.6K! If we remember the inlet water cannot be lower than ambient (for radiator to work), it is obvious the net result will be negligible.
Don't forget this 437W TEC will consume additionally 660W of power!
There's absolutely no way to get around this problem and make this concept practically useful.
we are not trying to get ac conditions:ROTF:
You forget a few things of why this is being done.
First off, proof of concept, second off, its much smaller then really any other chiller can possibly be. And more maneuverable in a given small space. They will most likely find that they need more cooling space, on the hot sides, so I hope there willing to move to a more pelt system. 8-10 226w as I said earlier at much lower voltages will give you great water temps a few degrees below ambient for a similar wattage of a 437w pelt. So take it from there, and you can crank up the voltage to get lower liquid temps.
No, i understand this concept perfectly. And i am saying it is not going to work. Everyone just have to think about this more thoroughly.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Either air radiator before chiller block or chiller block after radiator should be removed from the design to make it sensible.
You have to see the whole picture. How much of power you are going to remove from computer components?Quote:
8-10 226w as I said earlier at much lower voltages will give you great water temps a few degrees below ambient for a similar wattage of a 437w pelt. So take it from there, and you can crank up the voltage to get lower liquid temps.
Lets, again, take certain number, for example 300W load. You can't remove more than 300W from water in chiller block, or else your radiator inlet will be lower than outlet :) Is it obvious? So, at 1gpm water flow, you can't possibly cool the water by more than 0.85* 300/230 = 1.1C. Is it really a great achievement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cronos
and you forget that if everyone looked at it that way there would be no such thing as tec and there is really no use for chiller of any kind.
He does have a valid point I posted about earlier. Your better off wtihout the rad in the loop at all, post rad you just won't be able to do too much. Without that radiator you dont have a possible heat entry point.
I agree if you are wanting to freeze everything. but if your just wanting to cool stuff down I don't see why it will not work. we have talked about this before and I be leave he will be testing both with and without the rad. This is more for testing to see what can and can not be archived.
well thats what all the testing is for.Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
Thats why i gave martin a ton of other stuff to test all these ideas on.
And i dont mind the waste in money. Its a learning experience. And the amount ive learned on this forum, this is my way of giving it back. :T
Good or Not...
I asked martin to make me a base plate to clamp the two blocks side by side. I'll attach some enzo's NB sinks on the other side and opt for an 8x40mm TEC solution with the hotside aircooled if need be. And could use this unit to replace the radiator completely.
Or maybe i can ask someone if martin cant do it to convert the two blocks to side of a reservoir and have the other sides made of acrylic. My ideas arent done yet. And its only the start.
However that would mean i might need to look at a larger psu now. :\
Love the direction your going in, also that you are keeping your eye on what your were trying to accomplish in the first place.
Man it would be so great to get a miller and a lathe, Someday....
Thanks for sharing this with us...
OK martin you have had some time now!!!! Lets see some #'s!!!!!! :D
lol... hes on a business trip like i am.Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
I thought he was working on the kitchen cupboards? :)
oh man I wanted to see some #'s! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
lol... kinda hard when the meanwell is sitting on my desk.Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
Need to mail that out tomorrow. :rofl:
I think im gonna ditch the radiator. Im also thinking about using 4x90W tecs. Nol is that too much for a meanwell S320-12? Hotside will be cooled by a MCR320. If thats not enough, i can stack another MCR220 on top. Its going in bottom bay of TJ-07.
i intend on downvolting. And how much load do you think that will pull off the water? I figure if i can keep this number higher then my cpu load, i can probably make it into a very mean cpu only loop.
What your holding things up!!!!!!!!!!!! come on naekuh I thought you were trained better then that. :rofl:
Sorry I was out of town, working on them now though.
Drill
Drill..
Drill...
Tap....
Drill.....
Repeat.....
:D
Results!!! RESULTS!!! Give us some results! :(
jk but looking fabulous so far.:D
Whew...got the holes finally drilled on the second block. Here is a couple of quickys.
To get perfectly aligned holes I drill and tap two opposing bolts first, then drill each hole. First the tapping drill bit goes all the way through, then I clamp the vise in place, drill the second shank hole in the delrin, and finally the end mill to countersink the head.
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/6349/ntc14tv0.jpg
And the top all drilled out, tapping the base continues... Burned up one tap, onto a new victim..:D
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/1542/ntc15xe3.jpg
Got all the tapping done on the second block today.
Just need to cut off about 40 bolts to length, drill/tap in the barb holes, drill the holes for mounting the two blocks together, and I can start finishing off the faces and beadblasting...
Should finish these up next weekend for sure.
*hiding behind something from your wifey*
i hope she doesnt find out im the reason for the delay in the cabnet. :X
It's strange...she said she was headed for LA for a quick trip. And man, I thought the package you sent had a return shipping label, where did the label go?..:DQuote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Nah, I think she's just happy I'm going to be working on them again. Actually I spent a good portion of this weekend on my work laptop doing work stuff I didn't catch up on from the week. That's alright, a little OT will mean some more toys..:up:
Looking really really sexy
That "one of a kind" item will fetch big bucks from us chiller "waNNA BEEZ"
You should put it up for auction,,,,,,
I want one waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
What's that -- it looks like a size 11 sole of a shoe
With that height, I wonder how much water that thing holds..
Martinm210, you're doing some sterling work and I guess you and NaeKuh will have to do a lot of tuning to do.
btw, Martinm210, in you're post #132, is that snow I can see through the window?
Hehe
Someone said it looks like a coffin, I kind of like that..:D
It holds a fair amount of coolant, about 3-4 blocks worth....
And yes that is snow, we've had WAY TOO MUCH around here lately. Part of my delay on the block construction, we had soo much on roofs, several buildings collapsed. I spent alot of time on my roof shoveling drifts that were over waist deep:eek: Finally starting to melt now, but I still have piles up to the roof eves around the house.
off topic, sorry
how do you tap with a press? is that safe?
on topic,
the block is looking really nice, have you guys thought of were and how this thing is going to be mounted?
I just use the press to keep the tap perfectly plumb, and pull the pully belt off the top. Then I hand crank the tap either at the chuck or at the pully wheels on top. They also make some special tapping chucks that will reverse and aid tapping, but I don't have one and the one I tried only worked so so anyhow.Quote:
Originally Posted by evil-98
As far as mounting, I'll leave that to [edit] NaeKuh. He's still planning out the build design so who knows where they will go. Maybe mounted vertically behind the drive bays between the pump and CPU block or something similar.:shrug:
scott is getting my blocks b4 me? :O :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Thats a long travel distance given that he's not even stateside! :D
and i was going to show it off by placing it either sideways along the mobo tray, or flat on the case floor sideways to show off the bling.
Havent tought of how to do it fully yet. Still need to see the results with and without a radiator. :T
@ martin... the reason why i sent you that DB-1 pump is because i think it might be more effective in a radiatorless loop if we slowed the flow down a bit so the water had a bit more time in the cooling pot section. :shrug:
bah... have your fun with it... i dont need any of it back until april anyhow....
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
oh oh in that case martin I will send you my address and you can send it to me first!!!!!!!! :D
Nah, it doesn't work that way. At lower flow, you will have higher temp drop in chiller but also higher temp increase in CPU WB.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Higher flow always better for single - block loops. For multi-block loops, first blocks after radiator (chiller) may benefit from lower water flow at the cost of all following blocks.
Agree, and whether low or high flow, water will still spend the same amount of time contacting the cold side. Like the old radiator/heater core myth that water needs to go through the contact area slowly to pick up more heat (or in this case, cooling), water flowing twice as fast through a loop with make twice as many circuits through a contact point, so overall the same "time".Quote:
Originally Posted by Cronos
Awesome pics, I honestly don't care who gets it running first (sorry NaeKuh :shrug: ), just get it going and let's see some frosty goodness :up: .
lol... well as i said, its a fun project. If it works, then great, if not, then oh wellz.
I am currently working with iandh on a 780i setup right now. So my head is kinda lost on other things at the moment.
But, i was looking at my setup. I noticed coolant temps if you can bring down the coolant down even 2-3C that would be awesome. If i can meet ambients on coolant temp even better.
So maybe this will still work with a radiator. Im not looking at dragging the temps below sub ambient. But very close or at ambient would be nice.
2-3C - awesome ?? I sure learned this word in another dictionary.
he is saying awesome as it would be a very good thing if he got 2-3c cooler.
Ahhh man....NO!!! that's not what I meant....:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I probably will be exchanging some CPU blocks with him, but not these.
Did I mention I have two kids that take every last bit of sanity and clear thinking out of my head...:D
Oh and my guess is, the blocks will give you about an 8 degree improvement at full tilt...:D
The current wife does that, let alone the other 2 i've had! Kids i find learn from ether her or you, thankfully they learnt from me!Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Hehe.
Well, I got the machining done today, now it's just a matter of finished both bases and the tops, beadblasting the interiors of the bases and starting the assembly. The only thing I'm changing is omitting the top asthetic ribs. With my mill being as small as it is, I'd have to do that in two passes and you would see the overlap...need a bigger mill for this project.
Just for fun, here is one base with one 40mm TEC option...Is 5 of them enough?:D
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4954/ntc16ov6.jpg
5 should be plenty and will cool the water nicely as well as heating it up! Really impressive work Mart
ONLY 2 kids??!! What I wouldn't give to have only 2 kids again.... :eek: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I have FOUR kids, ages 6, 4, 3, 18 months. I've lost my sanity a long, long time ago, approx 5.5 years ago.... hehe:eek: :eek: :p: :shocked: :rofl: :nuts:
:pimp: :bounces:
Things are looking great though! I'm excited to see how things turn out.
breezyjr
Four!...ok I'm not worthy...:D Only two for me, one is 4 and the other 16 months. That's enough work as it is.....:)
Well....fabrication on the blocks is finally complete. I probably have 100 hours into these, so needless to say these will be two of a kind..:D
Here are some assembly pics:
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/7659/ntc17yh0.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2854/ntc18vw2.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6923/ntc20on2.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6931/ntc19ks9.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5403/ntc21sh0.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/3408/ntc22ss7.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9591/ntc23ag5.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/1885/ntc24kp3.jpg
I put all 5 TEC's in just for testing sake, they were a 91watt variety, and I found that one TEC running at 12volts draws at most 63watts and starts dropping off as the two blocks heat up. So, hooking up three of them to the meanwell under water should draw right around 190 watts or so.
Anyhow, it's probably not worth testing in a loop until the meanwell gets here, I have a couple of smaller fabrication projects to hop over to and get done.
That is so cool. I've always thought about making something similar to this. Can't wait till it's all hooked up and urnning.
hey martin next time I would try and use cermaque instead of as5. the cermaque seems to work better. at least it did on my 226w.
Ok, will do. I'll probably end up taking two of the five TEC's out anyhow, and I'll look around for some sort of neoprene I can buy in a solid sheet to make nice cutouts for the three TEC's.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
I just happen to have a BIG tube of AS5 lying around so that's what I went with for this first trial.
Looking pretty sweet!
can I have it??!! :eek: :D
I'll give you one of my kids as payment.... :rofl:
I hope to be spending the day on my build.... Although I didn't get my reservoirs, I guess I can build around it for now.
Later,
breezyjr
Looks really good Martin, excellent job (as always).
:ROTF: :rofl: :ROTF: ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezyjr
Sorry to you your kids are a future winning investment.. :yepp:
To me... well... unless it was for humaniterian reasons, i like my blocks better. :rofl:
Im not ready to handle kids yet... :p:
If i did, i couldnt be hiring martin and iandh to work on custom parts for me on my next build. My "children". :P
Oh come on.... I'm sure you could put the 3 year old boy to work!! heh He's really good at driving you nuts... ooops, I mean cleaning and helping around the house.... yeah that's it. he's good at cleaning.
hehe
{/off topic}
breezyjr
All the photos are loading for me 100%...wierd. But when are we going to see some results?!? I can't wait. I been wanting cooling better than water, but haven't been daring enough to play with phase.
ETA on results?
--pak
You are srsly my hero :)
But yeah lets see some results :)
Thanks!
Going to have to wait until next weekend at the earliest when I get to borrow NaeKuh's Meanwell 320. He's sending it to me this week, so I'll have it soon enough to test with. That will allow me to test with 3 TECs.
My Samlex DC variable PSU is only capable of powering one TEC, so I figured it wouldn't be worth bothering with (only 90 watts worth). If I hook two TECs together in parallel I'll peg my PSU at the 6 amp limit and only muster about 7 volts before doing so. It's a great PSU for pump testing and other small stuff, but not for TEC testing.
Need....More....POWER!!...:D
Why do I hear Tim Taylor's voice here ??? :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Great work, exactly what I have in mind. I cannot wait to see some numbers and see if it works good.
Beautiful work, now to test and make some conclusions :)
Excellent craftsmanship. Looking forward to the results.
martin... hook up all 5!! That meanwell is good for 320W.
Heres the complete specs on it:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/samam32inpsu.html
DAYAM! im gonna need a bigger meanwell. I knew i should of picked up that 600Wer. But its freaken hugh... *sigh*
i'm confused, how is this going to work?
there are 2 loops one is going to be hot and the other is cold. the cold one is going on the cpu and the hot loop is going to a rad or what ever to cool it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeywoman
That is an easy way to look it
Have been watching this thread with great interest. Excellent work.
Waiting to see some results like everyone else.
Actually first test will be basically...
Pump --> Rad --> This Chiller --> CPU --> Hot side of chiller --> Res ...
As far as I know!
I put it that way nol so that he would understand more of the concept. :D
I would think you would want to do 2 loops one for the chiller and cpu and another for the hot side. to take advantage of all that cooling.
actually i was going to keep the hot side and cold side seperate.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
so hotside
DDC-3.2 or D-tek DB-1 pump IF it tests good.
Pump -> hotside -> MCR320 -> T-line -> Pump
Cold side would be inline right after the radiator first, and then alone.
im not going to recycle the water, would make no sense to do that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
it will be fun to see what kind of temps that chiller will make at the CPU when it's not tied to the hot side,
you should have some great numbers/temps.
you lucky *^*&^& best of luck with that CRazy CHILLER.
Keep us posted,
hehe, yup, you'd basically just be adding the heat pulled out back to the loop, plus the heat created due to the low efficiency.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I just started following your thread as I'm thinking about doing something similar, only I'm wanting to hit sub ambient temps so the cold loop will be completely insulated from the air with no radiator. It almost seems as if I got the idea to do it right as a bunch of others on the forums here did too only I'm being all lazy about getting started.
I think you might find that with the ammount of wattage you have on their you might be better off adding the rad on the cool side to the hot side of the loop and keeping that cooler. I haven't read through the whole thread, but It looks like your going to be putting upwards of 400W worth of TEC's on there. That's more then enough to pull heat off most CPU/NB/VGA setups.
I didn't see if the math was fully fleshed out, but basically your onto a system that is modeled by a few sets of equations. The solution comes in finding the steady state temperature of the loop that balances the energy in and out of the two loops.
Cold loop
Qout=Qin
Qout=Qtec+Qrad
Qin=Qcpu+Qpump
Qtec=f(∆T,Qmax,∆Tmax,Vtec)
Qrad=f(Urad,∆T)
Qcpu=f(freqcpu,Vcore)
Qpump=f(Wpump,Epump)
Urad=overall heat transfer coefficient of the rad
Epump=efficiency of the pump
Hot loop
Qout=Qin
Qout=Qrad
Qin=Qtec+(1-Etec)Qtec+Qpump
Qrad=f(Urad,∆T)
Urad=overall heat transfer coefficient of the rad
Qtec=f(∆T,Qmax,∆Tmax,Vtec)
Etec=efficiency of the tec
Qpump=f(Wpump,Epump)
Epump=efficiency of the pump
If you were interested, I'm sure I could dig up all the individual equations, but most of this stuff at this point would be far better to calculate experimentally.
But, after laying all this out, you would come up with 2 equations for the energy balance on each of the loops which you could solve for the temp of the inner loop at steady state.
Edit: also keep in mind, that with the volumes and flow rates you will most likely be dealing with, you will only be seeing on the order of 1 or less degrees of temperature difference on the inlet and outlet of your tec unit. For any decent water cooling flow rates it's a very easy assumption to make that the change in temperature in the loop at steady state is almost 0.
guys got the stuff back from martin.
He couldnt test it, he ran out of time and i didnt want to push it on him.
He gave me A LOT more then i could ask for by building such massive blocks. And btw, there are massive. Heavy as heck too.
But, the radiator is not a safty net as i wished for. Its a Football Line Backer blocking me from dropping coolant levels.
So i am going to try another route. This will take the radiator out completely on the cold side, and utilize a reservoir.
I was thinkn of an external box to fit this. The unit is kinda massive. I honestly didnt think it was that big. Anyhow this was how i was gonna do this.
The internals:
EK-400 res. Or the largest possible, i think its the 400.
Im gonna use the top as an inlet with a Y, i'll tell you in a sec on why.
The bottom has plugs as barbs. Botom and 2 side on the bottom. I was thinkn of temp probe at the way bottom.
Now i was thinkn of paralelling the setup. So each of the outlets at the bottom will goto a pump.
Loop1: T-line -> DB-1 or DDC->MCR320 ->Hotside >pump Very small loop, with Tline.
Loop 2: EK-Res -> pump-> Coldside -> EK.
Loop 2 will continuously circulate the water to make it colder. I will probably have to insulate the EK, and also use neoprene tubing.
The second bottom barb will go directly out to the system. This way the water will be chilled, and the system will be getting cold water.
The top will use a Y as a return for both loop 2 and the path that goes out to the blocks. Do you kinda get the concept
I figure loop2 will keep the water cold, also since your calculations show it takes a grip of energy for the water temp to go up, i figure the chiller has a smaller loop so therefore can do more work then the larger one on the same paralell setup.
I intend on having 2 psu's in there. A Pico PSU, for the pumps and fans, and the meanwell for the TEC's.
So whatcha think?
sounds good
so the y splits in to two paths meaning the cold side will continue to circulate? so you kinda need like a reverse turbo timer, got to cycle the system for a while before starting up
hum still kinda confused pics would help :)
sounds like a plan
I'd like to see thermocouple readings on the hot and cold plates to see how they compare to detaT max for the TECs.
Do you have a fluke or similar device?
correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by evil-98
The cold unit would be on its own setup.
I'll have 2 meanwell's inside or 1 meanwell, and 1 pico PSU. I dont like dragging cables from the pc -> Back..
The block loop, the pump will be internal on the computer side.
So yeah, the Y at the top is a double return. 1 for the cold loop, and also for the main block loop.
Erm im confused, do me a paint drawing please. Can be mega basic
Just do 2 loops, hot & cold, hot nice big rad and decent pump to get rid of the heat. Cold use a Tline only
Updates ?
Sounds overly complexed. Why don't you use a large rad for the hot side and then just loop the cold side like you said using ethanol or something and insulating and then just seeing how that goes...Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I'm really getting frustrated that I can't get on with my chiller now (Im at university with no tools). My design is nothing like this but the principle is still the same.
I'm not one to colour water, but with this I'd be sorely tempted to use blue water on the cold side and red on the hot. Much like stripes make a car go faster, my calculations suggest this will increase the temperature difference :p
Hey PM me again mate, I might have some time in next weeks to test for you if you have all the equipment.
All that work, hmmmmmm
Time to let her rip....
I know how it is, it takes so much time to set this stuff up and tune it to get the most from it...Just love that big shoe design, should pull some major amps and put out some chilly willy
Thanks nol, PM Sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
I guess you can get to the bottom of things on which way will be the best setup for this unit.
PM replied.
I just had to switch gears over the the kitchen project for a while, but glad this is still moving forward.:clap:
Not making any more, but maybe with some successful testing, we can convince one of the CNC mill guys like Iandh to start fabricating them..:up:
WTB update.
--pak
I'll raise you. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by pak
that smart of you, otherwise you system would actually be getting hotter because TECs create more heat then they do cold (even though cold is the absence of heat you know what i mean).Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I like the tripple loop set-up; especially if you run the chiller loop for a while before kicking in the main loop both before the system fires up. Are you going to run all 5 87W pelts downvolted to 60W or three 87W as origonally planned? Keep one thing in mind when setting up your reservoir, the bigger the res the longer it'll take for pulldown but the lower your load will be on the pelts once the system is running and the smoother any temp curves will be.
Any updates on when its hitting my hands?
Nice project ;)
Any update ???
ack sorry nol....Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Lemme pm you...
I'm still getting parts together for my rig. I need to find a good low restriction two-way ball valve. The plan is to have the quiet, stock clock mode to run the CPU loop through a 3x12 rad. Change the position of the ball valve and the water gets routed through a dual-block TEC heat exchanger sort of like the one shown in this thread. I've got four 168 watt TECs and two 320 watt Mean Wells and another 3x12 rad to cool the hot side of the TEc block. It will be interesting to see what kind of temps the TECs will provide at load.