comparing a zalman f3 with medium yates, i'll stick with medium yates, as it feels like its pushing more air than a F3...
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comparing a zalman f3 with medium yates, i'll stick with medium yates, as it feels like its pushing more air than a F3...
The camera was literally touching the fan grill. In reality it's quite a bit less loud.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
but aren't Zalman fans sleeve bearing?
I am in doubt of which fans to pick for my PA120.3 and PA120.2 from chilledpc.co.uk for a silent setup (with fan control though)
dependin on vertical or horizontal mounting
best choices for you are yate loon SM medium speed variant (vertical mounting recommended)
and SFlex-E/F (any mounting orientation)
and also some silicon fan mounts to lessen vibrations some...
I am gonna have the PA120.3 vertical in the Lian Li PC343 like
http://www.hardwareforums.com/attach...achmentid=1101
And PA120.2 in the top horizontally
http://www.hardwareforums.com/attach...achmentid=1073
Would you then get 2 different kind of fans?
I'm a bit confused...
as I won't be buying fans from PTS (Europe FTL)
should I prefer Yate D12SM to D12SH for Thermochill PA120.3?
(rad will be mounted vertically ;))
yates SM or SH, depending on db quiet preference when at 12v
of course the SH would sound off more than the SM version...
still best bang for the buck are the yates, especially on most vertical mounting.
next choice for me are SFlex-F, i have 8 atm all performing nicely.
I bought a pair and they are indeed identical to the 1011's except for the ribbing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Metric
Incidentally, I could find absolutely no mention of the 101/1011 anywhere on either Sanyo Denki's site or in their literature. (Did they stop manufacturing them???) However, there are 102/1021's available with identical specifications, but they lack the yellow lead for RPM monitoring.
So I guess the list now could include:
109R1212H101 - ribbed, worst case requires a dremel
109R1212H1011
109R1212H102 - can't monitor with computer
109R1212H1021 - ribbed and can't monitor
All these fans are listed by Sanyo Denki as .52A, 6.24W, 2600RPM, 102.3CFM, 64.7Pa, 39 dB, so I will presume they are identical except for the minor differences noted above.
If I pick the SM for both my radiators is it going to be very bad at the horizontal radiator? Because I would like to same some quid for my new rig :DQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
http://madsskipper.dk/H2O.htm its expensive enough already :)
Whats the noise lvl of Sanyo Denki San Ace when a fan control is applied? Because you say its the best, but if you can't shut it up its useless for me
fan control and San Ace 1011 is pretty quiet for me, lets say as quiet as a yate medium speed and starts up at 4 to5 volts and still pushes decent airflow...
as previous mentioned, that yates would first do well horizontal mounting, but after a few months there would be some noise due to the "sleeve bearing grind"
yeahQuote:
Originally Posted by emoners
So I should get S-Flex for my big rad then :s or is the Slip stream better? Because thats 3£ cheaper
If you want quiet but powerful fans for your rad, take a look at the Noctua P12. They push more air than the s-flex 1200 and can also go down to 5V easily to become inaudible. They aren't cheap and very ugly, but if you want power and silence they are definitely the way to go.
And they don't get damaged blowing horizontally? Hmm think they are a tad too expensive :sQuote:
Originally Posted by jcool
No, they are perfect in every mounting position because of their self-stabilizing bearing.
Hmm but guess I need either 2 s-flex or noctura for my top radiator. Just crap they are so expensive.
What about this one link it has hydro bearing whatever that is.
Sflex-* uses fluid dynamic bearing... (almost sounds the same to me, research some more...)
said fan in link, is new and untested yet, specs are promising though...
probably spec'd too low db rating maybe untrue... (idle speculation...)
I have those San Aces @ 5v and they're great...works better yet @ 7v, but my PSU doesn't starts if I put 2 or more san aces @ 7v config :(
Rbs.
:wave:
maybe not eneough on the -5/-12v side?
i have several PSUs and all jumper'd green&black starts up fans alright without other load... Gigabyte ODIN 550, Seasonic S12 650, Generic brand...
Luck guy :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Thermaltake 1KW here...and it turns on for only one second :(
Rbs.
:wave:
what's the difference between ribbed and non ribbed fans?
The enhanced pleasure.:rofl: Sorry I could not resist.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
hey vapor,
would it be possible that you post the excel file? i want to pick new fans and i want to isolate some of the fans to get a clearer graph
thank you
ribbed are closed corners..Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Why no tests on the Delta 220cfm?
Would a Thermochill PA.120 rad, 4 medium Yate Loons, and 2 shrouds (front and back) be more efficient than a 2 medium Yates running on one side? I hear the Thermochill PA.120 doesn't change much when using higher speed fans. I already have 4 medium Yate Loons and 2 shrouds, I just want to know if I'll get anything out of it. Even a 1/2 degree is worth it = )
guys, which of these 2 120mm fans would be a better choice? Arctic Cooling AF12025L or Scythe Slipstream? planning to add fans to my case, but i want something good & silent.
I would get either a Scythe S-Flex SFF21E, a Yate Loon D12SL 1000 or an Aerocool Turbine 1000. All three are extremely silent and the Yate Loon is extremely cheap too.
However, if you're definitely deciding between those two, I would opt for the Scythe Slip Stream.
@Bad213Boy, you just need the shroud on the pull side. so 2 push fans = rad = shroud = pull fans... this is the most efficient use of shroud... shroud on push side is just wasting space...
@emoners Case fan Vertical orientation, cheapest is yate loon medium speed. or slip streams also good for case fans only.
then next choice for me is SFlex-F: good for all orientation case fan, also good radiator fan...
Comparing simple paper test with AF12025 VS Yate loon Low speed, the yates pushes farther. both are silent though.
if you're looking for Radiator Fan, Look for Scythe Ultra Kazes (38mm thick) Slip streams are weak rad fans.
This only applies to systems where performance is limited by block performance rather than radiator dissipation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
This is just a copy and paste from the original thread in the Air Cooling section. Modern HSFs don't have considerable scaling with increased airflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by initialised
thnaks septim! :)
This is a common misconception due to over generalisation of testing methods. Modern heat sink and fan coolers behave as they always have done, for a given wattage the temperature of the cooled device falls with airflow until the minimum thermal gradient between air and device is achieved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Most modern air coolers aren't heat sinks, they are heat pipe based coolers (HPC). So they cannot be expected to behave in the same way unless they are operating outside of their thermal window. When a heat pipe cooler is operating within it's thermal window the temperature of the device it is cooling will be relatively constant as a function of air flow through the radiator at a given wattage.
Heat pipes are evaporative coolers so increasing airflow through the radiator will not reduce the temperature at the evaporator (Tevap) below the evaporate's boiling point (Tboil). However, as airflow through the radiator increases the thermal resistance of the heat pipe reduces meaning that the system can maintain a higher thermal load (wattage) at it's evaporate's boiling point since a higher rate of condensation (and therefore evaporation) is possible. Heat pipes are either airflow limited (Trad>Tboil) or coolant flow limited (Tevap<Tboil) at either extreme the system will behave like a solid heat sink.
I'm newbie here,and just a little confuse, so many argument about this thread, just got my thermochill 3 days ago, but i'm not buy the fan yet, so which is the best fan composition for the 120.3 ?
1. 3 pull fans --- shroud -- rad -- 3 push fan or
2. rad --- 3 counterclock fan -- 3 push fan
Thx all, I wish i get the answer
my rad position is horizontal, is that good if I use aerocool extreme turbine led fan, for pull and push ?
horizontal rad position, cheapest would be some Yate Loon Medium speed fans... on pull. and you mount it : pull fans = shroud = rad. (you dont really need the push fans...)
I don't believe having fans on both sides of the radiator will help all that much. Anyone want to correct me on that and provide a reason for it? Hmmm
is that true ? is it oke with aerocool xtreme turbine ? with 89 CFM and +/- 1800 Rpm, I like the white led on the fan :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Matched fans in push-pull help to prevent back flow and ensure that all the air flows through the radiator and can be quieter. However, it's not necessary unless your system is radiator limited.Quote:
Originally Posted by fungry
How about vertical position ? behind back panelQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
if only thos san ace's where easyer to get hold of :(
Any word on the AC Ryan fans performance? Also, who easy is it so take apart some of these fans to paint them?
I have a bunch of the 1011's laying around, so I am going to use them on my 2 MCR220's, is it better to do a push/pull with them or just a pull or just a push?
Thanks,
Utnorris
just use fans on pull... (with shroud is optional, but it does help net you even as little as 1 to 2C temp drop, is good enough for me...)
vertical mount, cheapest still yateloon medium speed fans...
*also with regards horizontal mount, the yate loon fans doesn't last long dew to the "sleeve bearing grind"
so my next suggestion for all around fans would be the SFlex-F and those San Aces 1011(if you can find em...)
@initialised: "Matched fans in push-pull help to prevent back flow and ensure that all the air flows through the radiator and can be quieter." (i'll have to check this out for myself, some use for extra fans lying around...)
Quick question everyone, the San 1011 fans are 3 wire fans, am I correct that the wires are as follows:
Yellow - RPM
Black - ground
red - Positive (connect to yellow on PSU side and it's 12v, connect to red on PSU side and it's 5v)
Second assumption is that at 5v these are pulling less than .25amps each since they pull .52amps at 12v.
Is there a way to wire them at 7v?
Sorry, I tried to do some research but I couldn't confirm the yellow RPM wire.
Thanks,
Utnorris
I figured out the 7v, I was working from the side of the fan and should have been working from the side of the PSU, brainfart. Anyway, still need an answer on the amperage.
Thanks,
Utnorris
Thanks Vapor. Also do you lubricate yours before installing or is this an unnecessary step?
Thanks,
Utnorris
I just buy them and use them....though many of the old-school San Ace users did do their own lubricating (or had someone do it for them).
Thanks. So I am going to do a push/pull configuration at 5v on my MCR220 Rads (I have 2), any thoughts?
Thanks,
utnorris
The H101 is the same as the 1011, except it's ribbed. That means the corners aren't open like a regular fan. I got a few of these last week from Dan @ thermal fx, and they are legit. http://store.thermalfx.com/merchant2...egory_Code=120Quote:
Originally Posted by Origin_Unknown
These fans are very good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iowamoe300
arg, unfortunatly its an american site and im in the uk BUT "IBM Factory Replacement for the Netfinity 7000 HOT SWAP Fan." has intregued me as im sure we have some of those servers in my company basement!!
i may go and have a mooch later
hello all,
is Thermochill PA120.3 with 3 SilenX Ixtrema Pro are good match ?
Silenx fans are very overated. They make more noise than what the company claims. Accoriding to vapors testing they dont push much airflow through the rad either
i have also read many complaints from users that had their silenx fans spit oil on their computer parts....
if you want silence i would go with some S-flex, or undervolted Zalman/ yate loons
for performance use you might want to look at the scythe ultra kaze, san ace or some high speed yates
the silence is not so important, but i want fan that give me the best from the two worlds.
then you can best get a utra kaze 3000+ a fan controller..this fan performs really well on rads..
Or a ultra kaze 2000 (does make noise but its tolerable from what i heard..another option is some medium speed yates
ok so the best for it is some KAZA or YATES ?
becuase i have alredy 2 of the silenx and want to know if i buy only 1, or to buy 3 other fans.
some one know maybe what are the best for PA120.3 ? or their is not something constant.
The Silenx are known for apparently being quite crap and reaching intolerable levels of noise within a short time period. The Yate Loons are cheap and will serve you well, I would personally go with them.
ok thank i order the Yate Loon D12SH...
utnorris, i also put some oil on some noisy San Ace, and they performed quieter... if you have the space for push pull config they go for it, other wise suggest on pull config should be enough...
iowamoe, for the ribbed San Ace, there is always the dremel with cutting disk option to make them open type...
taotao the cheapest well worth your money would be the yate loons... but those kaze ultras are also good for the radiator at 38mm thickness...
What do you use, and how do you oil the sanyo ace? Is this something I should have done before I installed them?Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
I have no problem with the ribbed version that I got, I love them. I was just stating the difference for the guy that asked about them.
Since I had so many just laying around I did a push/pull on both of my Rads at 5v. It's pretty quiet and I am now getting 10-12c lower since I added the second MCR220 rad even though I added the northbridge fusion block to the system, that's under OCCT load, so I am pretty pleased with my new configuration. Anyway, I still have a few laying around, so I may see if anyone is interested in them on the forums. They were pulled out of servers so they would need to have new connectors added to them, but they work and I still can't get over how much air they push. Anyway, thanks for the advice everyone,
Utnorris
i removed the san ace white sticker, took out the locking ring, slid out the first bearing inside, drops of oil on the 2nd bearing, then also drops of oil on the first bearing that i took out, then re-assembled it and place back the locking ring. level of difficulty around 4/5 if you don't know what you're doing and don't have the proper tools and patience...
question : do the ultra kaze's use sleeve or ball bearings?
i love my panaflo's :up:
I have the same fans in a push/pull configuration on 2 GTX240's and they really push the air. Some of them made a weird clicking noise but when I turned them upside down it stopped. So I put the one's that clicked on the top rad and the good one's on the bottom rad. No problems and they perform really well. I have the red LED one's. They are overrated on the box for noise but they do perform very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by TAOTAO161
ultra kaze = sleeve bearing...
hmm... where can i buy Yate Loon D12SH-124UB... PTS doesnt seem to have them.
Petras doesn't sell the SM or SH (or even 1350RPM SL varieties) because their supplier (Yate Loon themselves) doesn't make said fans. Yate Loon is concerned about additional/errant noise above 1250RPM from the plastic used for the clear varieties so Yate Loon simply doesn't make the fans.
so basically they stop making them cause of the noise from the plastic they used...? well you know any good led fans to put on rads?
Yate Loon has never made the fans. The ones you see at other retailers are basically Yate Loon in name only--they're not the same thing that Petra's gets directly from Yate Loon.
As for a high-ish speed LED fan? No clue personally. But other people do like the Zalman F3 with the various LED version it comes in.
ah ok thanks vapor....never thought fan shopping would be this hard lol
how about AC Ryan fans?
i have been using zm-f3 led fans and regular ones and they are great id recommend them.
Sure? Don't the AC's come in unique color combos anyway? (i.e., no competition)Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
People seem to like the AC Ryan fans, though like every fan there's probably also people that don't like it. :shrug:
My stance on LED fans: you're buying for looks. As long as the fan is within your noise and aesthetic tolerance, it's a good fan.
Fan Roundup 3 has begun....results follow
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=193125
This thread will still be the stickied thread until I'm completely done with Roundup 3. I'll post links to all of the mini-reviews that will contribute to Roundup 3 in this thread :)
hehehe i'm not a fan of leds too. just wondered since quite a few members use led fans & saw that AC Ryan 120mm fans are spinning at 2000rpm, 77.70 CFM & 28.95 dBQuote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Vapor, the fan guru :)
Do you know anything about the Panaflo FBH-12G12L fan. It is an older model that has an aluminum casing.. I believe the specs are 38mm, 30db, 1700rpms, 68cfm.
Thanks
http://i24.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/eb/fc/1ccf_1.JPG
hi does fan controllers lower the fan performance or not at all? at the moment im using 120mm Yate Loon D12SH-12 from PTS and a scythe kaze master 5.25 bay fan, trying to figure it out if it does cause ill be using them on my rads.
What do you mean lower performance? It'll undervolt them (I'd think, I'm actually not sure how the Kaze Master does it's thing)...which means they'll spin slower, which in turn means less airflow and also less noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by JINU
well i mean does the performance differ from directly connected to the psu and having it connected to the fan controller turned up max?
Normally u loose half a volt or so through a fancontroller. So on max it is probably around 11.5v (ish) instead of 12. I know sunbeam rheobus does this but i havent testet many different fancontrollers to very this.
That depends, but the best answer is "yes"
Most fan controller's max settings aren't 12V unfortunately. I know the Sunbeam Rheobus (20W version) has a max of ~11.4V on really low-load fans...like 11.15V on something like a San Ace H1011 and something like 10.9V on some Deltas. A Yate Loon D12SH-12 will probably run at like 11.35V or so. I use a Zalman MFC1 in my main system and its rheobus channels have a max of like 10.5V with Yate Loons (well, all fans really).
Ah, i dint know about the difference in max voltage variation with different loads... never really thought about that.
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig. "
Lol, is that some chinese saying, fortune cookie or something? :P:
Metaphor I like to use for arguing on the internet :p:
That's why fan controllers should be rated by ampers instead of Watts. If they can't produce enough current, they won't be able to fully load some fansQuote:
Originally Posted by eXa
do digital fan controllers like mCube does this too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
They could all do this, despite the fact they are analog or PWM based controllers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentarius
I don't know the mCubed, but the Aquaero doesn't do that unless you'll exceed rated maximum loads
Vapor, ever encountered these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Silent-Stand...2em118Q2el1247
They have a similar blade design to the 1011's, look a bit interesting IMO.
No fanamps produce any current. They just take the 12v from the psu and "burn away" the unneeded voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_ftm
Am i wrong...?
Weird.. cant find any 9GH fans at Sanyo denki webpage. Only 9GL and 9GV...Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
I just replaced my panaflo with some Scythe SFF21-F 1600 rpm fans but unlike my E fans that undervolt very smoothly my KAZE MASTER controller is like full on or full off with this fan.
my FLEX-E I can adjust 30 rpm at a time with small movements but one small movement on the F and thats it
anyone notice this ???? I just touch the voltage down a 1/8th of a turn and the fan powers off :(
On my MB sensors they undervolt gracefullyQuote:
Originally Posted by iboomalot
In any case, I don't think they can afford much than a certain current passing through them. At a certain level, they'll burn.Quote:
Originally Posted by eXa
On their site, they state maximum consumption 10A. I don't know what they mean, but that's monstruous :confused:
Buy a crystalfontz controller with PWM. It dials up and down to the nearest 1% of power and it uses PWM which eliminates some of the clicking and other odd noises you get from normal fan controllers.Quote:
Originally Posted by iboomalot
Not sure how much each channel can handle, but PWM is nice for non-LED fans.
:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I think you missed a point Martin
PWM states for Pulse Width Modulation outputs and that's what causes clicking with fans
The best controllers are rather analog, and much more expensive too.
At least, that's what I always read. Exemple is Aquaero and T-balancer dropping from PWM to analog on last hardware revisions
Different fans like different forms of power delivery.
Some fan go berserk on PWM and others behave better than on an analog circuit. Most do better on analog but there are some that prefer PWM.