Xilikon, did you ever try to screw the 800 directly into your PA 120.3? I guess you don't have the room, but would that work otherwise? In my book, less adapters/fittings = more reliable and leak-free.
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Xilikon, did you ever try to screw the 800 directly into your PA 120.3? I guess you don't have the room, but would that work otherwise? In my book, less adapters/fittings = more reliable and leak-free.
I didn't but technically, it's possible. It's even a great idea as long as you can fit the tubing after the SF800. In my case, it's not possible because there is no room.
So 2 units dead because (probably) of an incorrect electrical mod.
I hate to say it, but this really just proves my point that it would be better to use your existing links to Dirk or whoever in the company to persuade them that there is a need for a version of this already wired correctly for a computer mainboard fan header and plumbed to match our PC tubing standards. There is a market here and they should be made aware of it. There really shouldn't be a need to mod resistors and diodes onto these things to make them work with standard, highly ubiquitous hardware, especially when the mod appears to be sheer guesswork anyway... :confused:
My SF800 is not dead after all :stick:
I decided to give a close inspection with a lightbulb behind the SF800 and I noticed there is some gunk in it. It turned up it was some hair :shocked: I managed with a jeweler screwdriver and tweezers to remove 98% of it and I replugged it to test (with very very clean distilled water this time, along with a cleaned pump). It works again :up: What made me say there might be something trivial is that the electronics is very simple and it's hard to believe that even following the instructions for electrical connection, to burn the electronics.
It is very important to make sure your loop is very very clean or you will have a dead SF800. A good idea would be to do a leak test with clean distilled water for 24 hours, flush it then refill with clean distilled water again before prolonged use. Alternatively, use a good filter but I'm not sure anyone would want a filter in the loop for prolonged use.
Before we dig the grave for the 2nd SF800 I loaned to Martinm210, I would test it myself since it might be possible there is something fishy with their own fan headers or bad connection.
hehe. I actually have a appointment with a optometrist this thursday (booked since 1 month because my eyeglass was broken due to my son. I'm currently using a older eyeglass in the meanwhile).
When I'm working to remove the gunk, I had the opportunity to look at the mechanism very carefully and I see the impeller is struck between a plastic wall and a cross frame to center the impeller. There is not a lot of room between the impeller and the side support so even a bit of gunk can lock it but a good tapping on the side (to move the gunk from the hub) and tweezers will fix it.
when I think about how it happened, I realized that this happened while I'm doing the bucket testing with 2 buckets. I may not have cleaned them perfectly so it's possible the hair fell in the water then gunked it in the time to say "scooby doo' :)
That's another point in favour of the Digimesa flow meter. Notice the clearance between the impeller and the walls? You'd need a rock to jam it :)
And the 10 mm ID is a bonus too.
Downsides:
- It's huge.
- It's ugly.
- With 65 ppl the accuracy will suck with any monitoring option that doesn't let you set a sample window of 8-10 secs. (1/65)*60*60/2=27.69 lph deviation with the usual 2s sample window.
- Double the cost and may be difficult to source.
- You need adaptors, it's G1/2.
Yes, the Digimesa might be better suited for our needs, especially for loops with dyes and additives. It looks free flowing since water will go in a straight path. The SF800 have a wall so it will have collision and water will be forced to get around the wall (this is how it make a vortex which turn the impeller and generate the signal). the accuracy of the Digimesa might be a turn off too because I don't know of any software who can take a 8-10s sample and generate a value.
Well, it's up to everyone which one is best. For myself, I find the SF800 great as long as you have a clean loop, which shouldn't be hard if you take precautions. My mistake was doing the bucket/stopwatch testing with dirty buckets (not that dirty but not cleaned thorougly).
We had a Flowmeter comparison in the beginning of last year. Well it is in german but I think the values are interesting for everybody.
Flowmeter Roundup at effizienzgurus.de
I worked a bit on Samurize tonight (I don't have more to do in my project so instead of picking my nose, I just thought about the Samurize config I promised). Here is the first look of what I think will be the one I'll provide to any SF800 owner including the flowrate and the core temps.
Feel free to comment about the looks and functionnality. Since I'm using SpeedFan to get the values, I'm open to suggestions to expand the display for more informations.
I forgot the unit of the flow so I modified a bit. It now include flowrate in both GPM and LPM :
That's great!!:up: , my only comment is for us US folks that refuse to give in to the realization that the metric system is better. A period"." for the point in GPM instead of the comma would be great!Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
That's really great to have the core temps and flow rate like that. Is it possible to add system temp or any of the motherboard sensors in there?
Yes, you can add anything SpeedFan can detect. I will show tomorrow what a fully decked display will look just to show the possibilities.
The comma is there as a Samurize default. I will look to see if I can put a period instead but I don't guarantee I will be able.
As my son is sick today, I'm home so I decided to check about that comma thing. It's actually dictated by the regional properties of Windows so I just modified them to use a dot instead (That's what I usually use but I forgot to configure this when I reinstalled my OS). It's now running with a dot in place :)
I will try to work on a few versions :
-1 thick enough to be docked on the top of the screen where the window top bar is. Since it's very compact, I will just put the flowrate in this with maybe a average of core temps.
-Standard version, what all of you saw now, not too obstructive but enough to show informations.
-Full version, with almost everything displayed by SpeedFan including temps and voltages.
-20x2 and 20x4 LCD versions with no bling, just text. This is the one to be used if you have a bay LCD.
-Maybe a version for the Alphacool graphical LCD (no color but formatted to take advantage of the whole LCD resolution.
Just a note to say that I finally received the package from Martinm210 with my 2nd "dead" SF800.The adapters looks great and it's the last puzzle I needed to finally reassemble my loop during the weekend hopefully.
Since we all know by now that Martinm210's sample never worked when he tried to connect with the motherboard and we made wild assumptions, I decided to check why it didn't work. There is no hair or gunk in the impeller area so it's not that. The connection was hidden with heatshrink so I was unable to evaluate it but a short try is no go so I cut it off then redid my connection the same way as my first working SF800 but it didn't work :shrug:
I got a idea and I took both SF800 to check the orientation of the wire and which edge is ground. It turned up it's connected wrong (+5V is connected on the ground, ground on the +5V) due to the lack of a red edge and we assumed the edge with the writings is the ground. I resoldered it the right way (swapping both +5V and ground wires around) then I replugged in the loop and it finally worked :bounces:
The 2nd SF800 seems to register variations faster than my first and the amplitude is a bit larger as well. I'm currently running for at least 1 hour to look at the graph to see what it looks.
For those who claimed it's too fragile, they are more robust than I tought :rolleyes:
That's great!
I just assumed if there were three wires and one had black writing on it with a 12V system that it would be ground...Guess not.
Glad it's working though!
Not sure if this is the right place to post this but here goes :rolleyes:
I have got a SF800 without a proper 3-pin molex as shown here
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8200/sf800bo4.jpg
According to what I have read here (and please correct me) the order of the wires starting from the bottom to the top is Sensor - 5V - GND.
tzorge, holy thread ressurection !
I had to reread the thread a bit to make sure so the proper connection for the fan connector would be GND - 5V - Sensor (putting the other way won't work) and by default, the SF800 come out with GND - Sensor - 5V. Since yours have no colored edge on the wire like one of mine, you might need to do some trial and error to see which side is 5V and which is GND.
Just for reference, look at this picture :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...C/DSCF1274.jpg
See the red edge ? This should be the GND wire so work the orientation with yours and assume the GND is the wire closest to you.
lol thanks a lot will try out soon thnx
I managed to connect the wiring, but the readings I am getting seem too good.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8...ettingsrg1.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/m...jpg/1/w592.png
From what I have read the impulse produced is 100/litre.
I use an Iwaki MD20R-N it has 27-31 l/min and 3.1-4.3 m head
I have a D-tek Fuzion block and a 3870x2 full cover by EKwaterblocks in the loop, along with triple radiator and my reservoir 250ml again from EK
I think these number are too good, any suggestions?
No, it produces 509 impulses/liter.Quote:
Der Sensor liefert 509 Impulse/l
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathWalking
As I understand it 509 is the standard value for the mcubed flowmeter, I am using the SF800 which i think is rated at 100.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Actually, it's 100 impulsions per liter per second. To get the flowrate in liters per minute, you need to take 6000 impulsions since the RPM mean rotation per minute so we need to do it per minute as well.