nicely done martinm.. they look really nice, keep up the good work
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nicely done martinm.. they look really nice, keep up the good work
Ah... got my T a couple of days ago :) it looks awsome.
And i have always thought that normal barbs have thicker walls than needed and
it seemes i was right. This T have fairly thin walls, but still plenty.
Received my elbows yesterday. As much a piece of art as a functional addition to my loops.
Now if only McMaster would deliver those larger spring clamps...
Any chance of a threaded 90 barb like this for the bottom card of an SLI setup?
wow i have to order a few of these, well done :up:
Thanks guys,
I'm taking a break from these for a couple of weeks to work on my 680i blocks, and possibly do some experimental D5 top stuff, but I'll be back at it shortly. Go ahead and PM me if your interested and I'll continue the list. I have everyone on the original list shipped, so I was switching gears for a little while. I do have to say I'm really impressed with everyone for following through on the needs list, not a single person changed their minds. Great people here on XS:up:
Great, yeah they are fairly thinned walled. If I could buy copper tubing with a thicker wall, I'd do that. But I've been using these on my testing rig with 7/16" Masterkleer and havn't had any problems, I don't even bother with clamps and have pushed much higher pressures than a D5 ever would.
Great, glad you like them. I'm a bit picky on the end result, I actually have a reject bin collection going now that didn't make it past my inspector:ROTF:
Not yet with male threaded G 1/4. You could use one with female G 1/4 threading an use one of these though.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenmatomag.html
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...93_1977_114274
I've considered ordering a G1/4 and a G3/8" set of dies to make some custom barbs, but they are a bit expensive and I'm not sure I could ever make them fast enough to be worth the time. Threaded barbs are really a job for a swiss screw machine in high production volumes. They just take a long time to make manually.
Thanks!
PM me if you want to get on the list. I'll plan on making another batch in a couple of weeks.:up:
I think it would be much lower than .3 in a good WC loop, because that figure would probably be when they have a sound electrical connection with each other, and the conductivity of pure H²O is absolutely zero. Of course, it will get slightly contaminated in most cases, making it ever so very slightly conductive, but that is not what I could call a "sound" electrical connection. Everything should be fine. :yepp:
are you making these anymore?
if so can I purchase a couple?
About a Month ago I PM'd him, and he said no. :(
Would be nice though huh? Shinnny and All pretty!
He gave me this link and I have bought from there.
http://www.pexsupply.com/categories....D=546&brandid=
The same but not near the quality he was producing!
yeah martin gave me his last set he had. He's giving up on the mill.
I think my TEC blocks killed him. :cool:
something about his OCD not letting him make them simple. Needing to put detail on it, and having it take too much time is what he said the last time asked about some more 90's.
Neal, if you dont mind some regular copper 90's some sandpaper, and some silicon sealant, you can do it yourself. PM me here or on AT if you need instructions.
Please Share with me? I'd like to see some instructions on it. :) I'd be shy from taking a chance of it leaking.... make me nervous. But if there is a good way to do it then I'm all ears.Quote:
Neal, if you dont mind some regular copper 90's some sandpaper, and some silicon sealant, you can do it yourself. PM me here or on AT if you need instructions.
Thanks in advanced!
baiscally here is the problem with using regular 90's.
The 90 has 2 ends, a inlet and outlet. The inlet has no problem slipping tubing over. All you need to do is sand the outter edges so you get a rough patch for the tube to seal nicely over. Make sure you sand in 1 direction so you make artificial grooves. This helps keep the air out.
The Outlet is where you have problems. Depending on velocity of flow, the outlet can suck air into your system. This is a very bad problem. You need to sand edges again to make artifical grooves and then apply silicon around the tube edges to make an airtight seal. This is the only way to use the 90 without barbs.
Using Clamps wont work. It will still draw air without the silicon.
Sorry guys, I gave up on the fabrication side of things. I honestly don't know how some of the guys that do this sort of thing make any money at it. I had fun for a while with it...made a few bucks to cover some tooling I needed for the mill.
But after about the 100th elbow, the lack of penciling out was just too much. I can go into my day job on a weekend for 4 hours and make more than I could at this all weekend.
I don't make anything at testing either, but I like playing with water cooling gear too much to give that up yet.
The Q-Pex Elbows 3/4" brass style are very low restriction too..
Hey, I fully understand
NaeKuh..I appreciate the offer but I have no interest in fabricating the elbows mostly becasue I am not real handy and would not wantto find a leak from them down the road
I trust Martin..as his work is top-notch, so if he was still doing it I would have paid fair price for whatever he felt is labor was worth ....just to have a couple elbows for possible future use....
Must have 2 of these !
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...adedElbow2.jpg
How the F' do i get them to Denmark?
I didnt read the whole thread but are you planing on making a elbow with 2xG1/4 threads?
That would be awsome!
You missed this a few posts above.
The MOAE's (Mother of all Elbows) Almost sounds like MOAB, mother of all bombs. :rofl: , people have right now will be priceless. Martin isnt making anymore.
Maybe we can bug CD or Iandh to start a mass production on them. :rofl:
Thanks for your hard work, Martin! I managed to make exactly what I needed reading this thread ... they may not have as low restriction as simple copper pipes, but such as i use DD barbs everywhere, it should be fine. I really appreciate your test!
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1209910684