Any news on your Front PA120.3 build?Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadSLI
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Any news on your Front PA120.3 build?Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadSLI
Here we go with another update, this time installing the motherboard heatsinks!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_001.jpg
Stock ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus board, a close relative of the Striker Extreme :D
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_002.jpg
Look at that crappy contact patch!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_003.jpg
The NB and SB were nearly epoxied on, I was cursing during this removal!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_004.jpg
A bit more contact here, but still very poor. No wonder the stock solutions don't work well!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_005.jpg
All stock parts removed
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_006.jpg
Shoddy machining on the EK mosfet blocks was a surprise. They're flat, but sharp edges and lower quality than Eddy's other parts gives me sadface :(
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_007.jpg
NB + SB blocks are flawless
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_008.jpg
Starting to look like a comfuser again!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_009.jpg
Yeah!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_010.jpg
I'm gettin' excited!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobohobo_011.jpg
More macro madness
It's hard to believe that sensitive electronics can be man-handled like this without being harmed. When I'm prying off my old heatsinks I always get a bit worried :eek:
I'd be worried with that alu top... see http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=179040
Thanks for the heads up, however I use a considerable amount of anti-corrosives in my mix so I don't have to worry about this problem. I learned that the hard way, and verified that it does work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
You just have to be diligent about changing out your coolant every 6 months or so and use the proper amount of Zerex or antifreeze :)
What ya doing, you didnt do much for like a half year already, get to work:cord:Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
:)
Thanks! I hate taking so long, but priority 1 is making enough money to fund my hobby, and that simply takes time :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Hehe nobody is as frustrated as me :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadSLI
Those Fenix Flashlights are great for working on computers :)
i like the colour scheme going on here :)
what model ram is that?
Pardon me while I vent some frustration... please....
WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING WITH A GTX WITH STOCK TOP ?!?
At least get the copper top, or get rid of that water block altogether.
Please !!!
Looking good...
I actually just got rid of my Mozart case, cause I absolutely hated it... but I didn't do any modding, kept case stock....
Can't wait to see it finished...
Now, My daughter is looking over my shoulder to see all the smiles... so you'll have to excuse the next part....
:shocked: :rofl: :lol: :stick: :woot: :sofa: :am: :moon: :fight: :shoot: :spill: :rehab: :bananal: :party: :YIPPIE:
Thanks..
breezyjr
Hum, what's wrong with that case. You need triple loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezyjr
What case you replaced? 343B?
Quoted for emphasisQuote:
Originally Posted by IanY
I thought the Mozart case wasn't deep enough. With my 8800GTX installed, I the fan in front barely fit, and I wanted to put in a triple rad there. The mobo header for my card reader wasn't long enough, as well as the floppy (I know, could have got another cable).
I would have preferred the 5 1/4" drive bays were opposite side, and the HDD cage opposite as well.
It had a great deal of potential, I just didn't find this site in time to do a bunch of mods. I'm now working on my triple loop UFO duality case (yes, "another" UFO case....I didn't know they were so popular when I bought it).
Also, I don't know why they put the front fans behind the solid part of the front panel. But, if they flip flopped the optical bays section (the black part) I think there would have been better airflow.
Really just my opinion, I like what this build is turning out to be. I wish I had seen found XS prior to building the mozart case... I just may have liked it.
Good luck...
Breezyjr
Again... apologies for all the smilies in my post... 6 year old was buggin me about them and wanted to see 'em... hope they aren't too distracting....
HELLZ YA! I'm a self-described "Flashlight Afficianado", or "total nerd" according to some :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
LEDs, LUMENS and such get me off. Guess that sums it up!
TMI :stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
Man that is one hell of a case! WOW
G.Skill something or other, it's been replaced recently with something faster, black in color ... you'll see in the final build :)Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
Look, seriously, you really need to consider some anticorrosives. I ran my loop for a week with just distilled and it corroded the fittings. I cleaned it all up, put it back together with the proper mix, and zero problems. Just run the right stuff and you're good. Simple as pie. I don't know why this is such a point of contention. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Love to see some of those pelt loops, got pix? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by systemviper
Hehe guess I'm not the only one with a juvenile sense of humor :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezyjr
Yo Yo yO. first, must say, your the bomb, that case is so slick. it almost makes me change my mind back from the Mountian Mod back to the Mozart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
BUT, i just need the room, don't need the bling and don't care about sound. My #1 priority is space and the MM got what it takes. I DO NOT want to have to stress about adding something....
here is the build I am ordering tomorrow....
U2-UFO CYO (Choose Your Own)
- Acrylic Color Smoked Grey
- Side 3 Big Window Panel (MB side for show off)
- Window Etching 1 Window Top (SystemVipers Logo based on the superman look)
- Side 2 Triple Original Panel (Chiller side)
- Side 1 Diamond Panel(top w/logo)
- Front Panel Type Duality
- Horizontal MB brace No
- Finish Black Wrinkle
- Front Panel Fan Spacing Swiftech/Black ICE
- Back Panel Fan Spacing Swiftech/Black ICE
- Back Panel Type Standard
Component list
Evga 780i
Evga (2) 8800 GTS 512 (92)
CPU E8400 till the Core 2 Quad Q9450 comes in.
2 PSU's Roswill 950 (main) plus a Roswill 650
Swiftech GTX copper top (?)
MCW60 for GPU's or DD Ion if got funds.
Pumps 2 D5 vario plus a 355 w/petra top
resi's still undecided.
lots of temp monitoring- still thinking of best way. Prob the inline mod.
RAM Dominator 8500 V1.2 Micron 2G
Asus monitors.
So that is what i am thinking, have 95% of everything except MM box.
Plus the in line chillers, i will break out my home brew design in the next month during this build.
Will start a seperate thread for that.
Plus just about finished my pelt bench.
Main board to start will be Evga 680i LT
Tankguys Micron 8000 ram, hmmmm
have 2 swiftech pelt mcw60's plus the swiftech pelt CPU block. Then add in my home brew chillers right before the pelt blocks, should help get temps down....
Also have several Variable 8-15v 30a power supplies to tune in the pelts....
Again need to figure out best way to monitor temps.
Sorry for being longwinded in your thread, but your build of the Mozart was a learning exp for me and just want to thank you again for taking the time to fill us in.
I will do the same in my thread.
Now back t o your regularly scheduled thread....
Hi System Viper,
You have choose DD ion over EK-88 FC, any reason for that?
I totally hear that. You would think with all this space I would want for nothing, but this case still leaves something to be desired. For example, I now have 2 Gigabyte i-Ram boxes to install (5.25" bay devices) and no bays to put them in, so I gotta figure out some way to mount them unnaturally ...Quote:
Originally Posted by systemviper
But I suppose each case has it's own challenges :up:
Thanks for the support and I look forward to your new build!
Here's the mow-bow gettin' its smarts all plumbed up:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_001.jpg
Leftover tubing from my old Zalman Reserator! Best tubing I've seen yet. Real rubbery and great bend radius!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_002.jpg
Dat dem der thing suer is neet.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_003.jpg
Wonder if dem der smarts is gonna werk?
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_004.jpg
Dem 'puters suuuuuure is neat.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_005.jpg
I'm a-lookin down on dem toobers!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_006.jpg
Noobers! Jim go get ma a pickle!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_007.jpg
UH OH! HEY LOOK PARALLEL 8800GTX's in SLI! THE WHISTLES GO WOOO! :rofl:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/mobotoob_008.jpg
Would ya get a load o that ma!? Parallel GTX cards. SHOOOO - WEEe! :rofl: :yepp: :yepp: :yepp:
Whew. Anybody notice my oops? :shakes:
Till next time! :D
Um...you're lines are going out the back of the pc when this is suppose to be internally cooled? I don't know...memory isn't water cooled? :P
1 SB out looks like its kinking and its a different color, 2 where the heck is the out line on the parallel SLI blocks?? :P
:edit: and it looks like u missed your mosfet block. could create a few issues. maybe water flying across the room and you mobo.
Output for parallel blocks is on the wrong card.
Why da heck he connect both line between the FC block?:shrug:
The lines going to the rear are only for draining the system. There is a removeable plug on the outside which can be unscrewed for draining.Quote:
Originally Posted by Swingerton
Water-cooling memory is almost as useless as water-cooling your hard drive. Neither require it. Of course I'll get some flack for that :eek:
The clear tubing is thin-walled. It's all I had at the time. It will be replaced eventually, but I do like the clear vs. blue contrast so that'll stay. It's not kinking, and regarding the mosfet block that is the input for that loop and I just haven't hooked up the pump line yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedalmonkey
I should have stated before, what you are looking at are 2 separate loops ...
Hehe, look carefully and think about how the blocks flow. In through the bottom (on the left in the last photo), through both blocks at the same time, then out the top. This is a parallel configuration without using a 'y'.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil-Fruits|R4z
Not only will I get less flow resistance, but the card temps should remain very very close to one another.
Still, nobody has yet found my egregious (and totally obvious) error :shrug: :)
I'd be somewhat inclined to swap the inlet and outlet on the left-hand mofset block, but aside from that I can't see anything wrong with the loop layout...
Eller
no clamp on the other GTX barb? wrong motherboard screws?
All the mobo screws look right. And yeah, he's missing a clamp on one of the Apogee GTX barbs (inlet).
Eller
I'm gonna guess here...I only see one hose going to the dual cards - no output hose???
Looking at the card configuration and factoring in the two hoses coming from the rear of the case.....
If you look closely - the two hoses come from the back of the case and then disappear through a cutout in the motherboard tray. Then you have one hose going to the bottom graphics card, followed by two hoses from the bottom card to the top card.......but I don't see another hose from the top of the card to the rest of the loop.
Water loop for the GPU goes in the bottom card, through both, then out the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxx103
The two hoses coming out the back of the case are just the drains for the CPU/mobo and GPU loops.
And he hasn't finished tubing everything, since the CPU/mobo loop doesn't have an inlet yet.
Eller
Hehe yup after I took the pics I noticed I had forgotten a clamp on the GTX :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by oerekum
Sucks 'cause that tubing is rather difficult to get on the barbs :rolleyes:
Good catch! :clap:
Any updates?
My Mozart build:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=182793
WOW, are they the koolance compression barbs?
making me drool
:confused:......:lol2:.......:rolleyes:........... :brick:Quote:
Originally Posted by NoobCake
Yea man! noob cake is my fav!!!!!!!!!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :ROTF: :ROTF: :D :D :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by NoobCake
Jk jk!! lol. But yes I agree, koolance compressions are awesome, it's just the word "koolance" that makes me shivver....... :ROTF: :ROTF: :rolleyes:
(me) :clap:
Hey everybody, I've been away for a while, dealing with life and what not ... mostly due to my mom getting cancer. She's doing pretty good now, chemo seems to have stopped it for now so we're all pretty stoked.
So anyway I have resumed my build and will be adding more pics soon.
I've changed several things since my initial build and learned a few lessons along the way:
Compression fittings have some disadvantages:
a) initially I had used some very soft Primochill tubing and I knew I would regret it. Well it turned out exactly like I expected, the tubing slipped right out of the fitting after running the system for a few days (I'll post a pic for reference later) and coolant poured all over everything. Luckily I had just turned off the machine so hopefully no permanent damage was done ...
b) The whole fitting will often unscrew instead of just the outer part when you try to remove the hose (just means you have to cut the hose, no biggie but kind of dumb)
c) You are limited to thin-walled tubing
I've since changed everything 'cept the mobo to Koolance barbs, with large O.D. tubing (3/8" x 5/8") and Herbie clamps. This doesn't look as nice but damn those Herbie clamps sure are sweet. They're super easy to remove and do a great job of sealing :up:
The next couple of posts will detail what failed in my initial build, then I will move on to my current status. Take care everybody, and eat right and excercise so you don't get freaking cancer! :eek:
a little dab of loctite will keep those barbs from twisting out & leaking
The failure of de feet
Well I told you I'd let you in on a couple failures I had that kinda killed my enthusiasm for a while:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_001.jpg
Here you see the EK Southbridge block splayed open for your enjoyment. This is a very nice part. Notice the Koolance compression fittings (sigh).
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_002.jpg
Here it is installed. The arrow is where I had a problem. The hose I used was too thin-walled and over time, it ended up coming loose from the fitting. Apparently the weight of it pulling down was enough to release it from the fitting entirely. Fortunately I noticed right away (I was just showing off the system and had just turned it off!) so I was able to get the machine into the bathtub quickly. Coolant went everywhere, all over the mobo and gfx cards, so I pulled it all apart, fired up the air compressor, rinsed the affected parts under tap water and blew everything off thoroughly.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_003.jpg
After I had it all apart I noticed something rather disturbing ...
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_004.jpg
Yep, they're both cracked.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_005.jpg
Gotta be careful with Acrylic! :rolleyes:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_006.jpg
Crack is fun in a pipe, but not in your res.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fail_007.jpg
That beatch has a deep crack!
This failure was due strictly to my own stupidity. The mounting bolts for the res were not perfectly flush with the bayres mount and I cranked the acrylic down too hard. I've fixed this in the new version that you will see soon :clap:
ROFLMAO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
Anyhoo thanks for sharing with us. I for one will make sure I don't screw my res down too hard. Lucky you were aware of the problem before you lost any parts. Good luck with the rehash!
ouch, bad cracks...
daang dude, hope it runs good now. and sorry to hear that about ur mom, but glad she's gettin' better ;)
Very kind of you to say so, thanks :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by i found nemo
Here we go, picking up a bit of steam again ...
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_001.jpg
Curiosity did WHAT to the cat???
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_002.jpg
FoxConn 8800GTX cards, all dried out and new fittings installed. Those Koolance barbs are SEXY!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_003.jpg
The first time around I found that filling was tough so I made some modifications for an extra set of breather tubes
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_004.jpg
Yeah it's a bit ugly
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_005.jpg
I'm using white clamps for the upper loop (proc + mobo parts) and black for the lower (GFX) loop
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_006.jpg
This will be a pee cee someday ...
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_007.jpg
New fittings, including LED-hole plugs on top. Eventually I plan to add a custom controller with RGB LEDs in each plug - but that's later on
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_008.jpg
The paint job on the bayres mounts was a crappy rattle-can job (thanks Performance-PCs!) so I opted to polish them instead. I also countersunk the holes a bit more to keep the acrylic from cracking again
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_009.jpg
Shiny!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_010.jpg
Don't fall in!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/newlook_011.jpg
Polished is purrfect!
Thanks Andy!Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
no prob ;) nice to see ur loop coming back together nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
I like to think of the pump as the 'heart' of the system
In this case it's like Doctor Who; he has 2 hearts :p:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/heart_001.jpg
Before surgery
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/heart_002.jpg
After a couple hours in the ER :eek:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/heart_003.jpg
The patient is looking good!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/heart_004.jpg
Stitching it up
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/heart_005.jpg
Hiding the sutures
Moving right along now ...
Allright b!tch3s, let's get to it! :cool:
I wanted the fans and radiators to be complete assemblies that I could control with a single +12v line for each loop.
I was going to make a power breakout board then I found this Sunbeam jobby that worked just great. No point in re-inventing the wheel, right?
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_001.jpg
Early testing
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_002.jpg
Sleeving cables. The adapter cables allow me to get rotational speed from a single fan in each assembly
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_003.jpg
Testing my work
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_004.jpg
Installed - left side
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_005.jpg
Making progress!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_006.jpg
Installed - right side
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/fannies_007.jpg
Closeup of right side
I had to relocate the hard drives to make room for a pair of i-Rams, so I used this elegant solution from Mountain Mods:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...raptor_001.jpg
Mockup - it fits!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...raptor_002.jpg
Making it pretty
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...raptor_003.jpg
The brackets are anodized, but it's a cheap type 1 and can be scratched easily :(
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...raptor_004.jpg
Custom-made power cable. Gotta love those IDT power terminals! :up:
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...raptor_005.jpg
A bit more stuffing
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...raptor_006.jpg
Some perspective
Man, why can I never get my tubing looking that neat and tidy? Seeing your loop layout has convinced me to re-do my loop some time. That and I've found a freaking awesome Black/UV Blue dye that looks really hot.
Eller
me likes... good work mate!
It doesn't look too bad. In the top card, through what is effectively a Y-split, out the bottom card. The layout of the cards means that each card is getting pretty much identical flow rate. The CPU and board is on a separate loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
It's a bit unusual, yes, but it should work, when you think about the paths of the water through both GPU blocks.
Eller
very cool :up:
Nice work!
It works exactly the same as a Y-Splitter would. Water goes in the top barb. Half of the flow goes through the first card, out the outlet, then bypasses the 2nd card, and through the bottom tube. The other half of the water bypasses the first card, goes through the second card, then out the bottom tube. Both water blocks have identical restrictions (well, should have :p:), and the lengths of tubing, so the flow rate will be identical. Half the flow rate, yes, but it's the same as if he was using a normal Y-splitter, except this one is simpler, easier to balance, and looks nicer.Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
A quick Paint edit, and flow would look a bit like this:
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...Eller/flow.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...Eller/flow.jpg
Eller
I love the last updates :up:
Thanks everyone for your comments!
The cards in this configuration amount to a Y-fitting, exactly as some of you have said.
I know for a fact that this works great since I had it set up this way before I rebuilt. The cards were usually within 1 degree C of each other, most of the time they were equal.
I don't know if this would work as well if there were other things in the loop, but since I have a dedicated GFX card loop it works perfectly. The flow is split evenly between each card and even tho the flow rate is reduced, it is not a considerable reduction. Under load I generally see under 50C for both cards, with an ambient temp of around 25C. This is with them both overclocked so I think those are pretty decent figures ...
Also, the flow goes from the bottom to the top. I find this allows the system to self-bleed much more easily, and it fosters clean and short lines. Both loops are set up this way:
Res -> Pump -> Blocks -> Rad
Pumps like to PUSH fluid, otherwise they can cavitate and give you trouble. For example you always find the fuel pump inside the gas tank on modern cars. I tried to model my loops that way for performance :)
I'll have more updates soon. I have to make a bracket for the iRams and that's gonna take a while ...
Oh one thing I forgot to mention, sorry no pictures :(
When I had it apart I added some EK backplates for the MOSFETs. Man what a difference! Previously the board would bend enough to prevent the blocks from actually touching the MOSFETS in the center. The backplates mitigated this problem tremendously.
Highly recommended! Install backplates if you're gonna water-cool your MOSFETS! :eek:
did you re-use the Asus backplates? I can't tell which board from the pics, so I don't know if your board had the mosfet and NB/SB backplates like the SIIE does.
I didn't get any with the board (ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus). I bought the EK backplates and used those.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
I did have to find some longer screws at a local hardware store. Shame EK doesn't include them with the backplates ...
Hi, I havebeen following your progress for some time now and I am very impressed with it. I was wondering what kind of computer education you have. I am very interested in this type of modding as a hobby and would like to take a few classes to learn some of the stuff that you have displayed. For example making your own custom power cables, the work you did on the LED and fan controller and some of the more complicated hardware aspects of building and modding PCs. I have a pretty good basic knowledge of computers and have been building them for awhile now but would like to go beyond what I currently know. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide and have a great day.
sub'ed
;p
Will you be able to remove the ram without removing the hard drives ?
That setup is not going to work very well.... the water is not forced to pass through both cards, and it won't.Quote:
Originally Posted by karl_eller
QFT.Quote:
Originally Posted by HaCKs
That is a total pass through. A guy at the last Intel LAN I went to had a boutique rig (not sure which one but a skull is their logo) in which they had a dual card DD loop in which the flow went down from card one to card two by passing card one as in this loop but instead of exiting the second card like this loop it returned the flow back up to the first card via the other barb and then exited the card loop via the right top barb . . .it would operate at stock but if you oc'd it even a hair all hell would break loose . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by HaCKs
Well first of all, thx for the props :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by reppgoa
I have a BS (bull:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:) in Computer Engineering. This is not what fostered my growth (or education, really) in computers. I've been building (and taking apart) things since I was old enough to remember. I've had one of nearly every major computer ever made, and kept up on most of the architecture changes since I could read. Unfortunately this is becoming nearly impossible now with the changes coming so fast ...
Honestly the most important skill you can have is "googling". College teaches you jack squat, the most important skill you get from College is the ability to research something. I had to find crap in an Encycolpedia back in the day, but now I have a VAST resource for absolutely ANYTHING I want to know. That is what you call a paradigm shift
The key is to know WHAT to search for and HOW to find it! :shrug:
The next important thing is the willingness to screw up, and screw up often. The time you spend thinking about how to do something is time that you could have spent actually trying it. The moral is, do 10 minutes of research on say, creating cables, then spend a few hours actually trying it!
There is no substitute for experience in any trade. When people are awed with my fuel-injected '57 Chevy and ask me how I did it, it always seems to surprise them that I "just did it"! I tried and tried and by about the 5th time, I finally achieved something useful. Failure is the greatest teacher, and you can't be afraid.
The difference between a layman and an expert is very simple: experience.
Give it a shot and every time you fail, you have the opportunity to learn. Share with others when you get the chance (which means "dont be lazy") and try to create a dialoge with those people who are better than you.
So first, be clear on what you want, then go out and find as much information as you can. Then try it and see what happens! That's the best advice I can give you.
Good luck and when you get something done, hit me again for some feedback. :)
No, but I can pull the cables from the Raptors and remove 4 screws and I'm good to go. One of the drawbacks of making something so completely custom is that maintenance becomes a bit of a pain ... even so it takes me literally 30 seconds to remove the Raptors.Quote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
I know this works because I've tried it :shrug:\Quote:
Originally Posted by HaCKs
Go out to EK and see how the cards flow, and you will quickly see why this works. Frankly after I thought about it, I was amazed that more people didn't do this. However it's always easy to see something after you understand it, just like you always find things in the last place you look :)
QFT?Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
Forgive my internet ignorance, but I have no idea what that means :eek:
Except it IS forced to pass through both cards. The resistance in each water block is identical (or as close to identical as the manufacturing process allows), and the water is going to be forced to split between both blocks. Just take a couple of minutes to think about how the internals of the blocks are laid out. If he only had one of the tubes connecting the card, then yes, you're right, it wouldn't work, but with both connections there, it WILL work just like a Y-splitter, except the flow would be more even than you'd be able to get using a Y-Splitter.Quote:
Originally Posted by HaCKs
Sunayknits: QFT is short for "quoted for truth", basically a way of saying you agree with something someone said.
Eller
Hmm, that sounds a bit goofy ... no surprise it was unstable. I think mine works well because the loop is super simple, and this loop is dedicated. Honestly I'm very surprised most ppl don't do it this way ...Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Beavis, your Cherry build is blowing my mind. I have dreams about that crap :p:
Quote:
Originally Posted by karl_eller
QFT
:clap:
Yeah, if I end up getting dual HD4870 X2's, chances are I'll be using FC waterblocks (the XSPC Razor blocks look REALLY nice), in which case I think I'll probably steal your way of setting the bocks up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
Eller
QFT... good to know.
My first thought was that QFT stood for, Quit Effing Talking...... hheheehe
I am liking how your build is turning out. I had the same case, water cooled, and absolutely hated it. But, I also didn't put as much effort into mine.... I used to just put all the parts in, and hoped it would all work.... hehe
later,
breezyjr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezyjr
Yeah this case requires quite a bit of thought and modding to get everything nice and tidy. I've had to move things around quite a bit to get it like I want. For example, I quickly ran out of 5.25" bays so I have to make a custom bracket for my iRams and that's gonna be a huge pain in the butt. :shakes:
I heard somewhere that "googling" was your friend...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
Wow great 1st post man!!Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdun
:clap:
:shakes:
Heh, well I suppose I deserve that :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdun
So if a radiator can handle the capacity you should be able to create a 'virtual' two loops to cool a cpu and two gpu's
using a y connector to split the outgoing cool water: one goes to the cpu then a radiator
the other goes to gpu, gpu then the radiator
wouldn't it work?
I suppose it would probably work. The major benefit (to me anyhow) of 2 separate loops is to keep the gfx cards from heating up my proc/mobo. The cards generally run 15-20 degrees C hotter than the other parts ...Quote:
Originally Posted by shachar2
However the water temp doesn't change a whole lot through the loop, on the order of a few degrees at most, so I'm guessing 'virtual' loops might yield similar benefits even if they shared a reservoir.
Some more nice things about 2 loops: you can run different color coolant in each loop if you want, and you could potentially have them run the fans at different speeds, ending up with a quieter machine. Also, you will get better flow with separate loops. Just a few thoughts.
I mostly did it because this hobby is all about being eXtr3m3! :rolleyes:
in all tests shown gpu1 or 2 is seriously a lot higher.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
The cores are no where near evened out.
Ive tried it as well, and i personally like my gpu's to be within 1-3C of each other when i sli or xfire.
That looping is another example of bling over performance. Sad to say. :\
Simular to how people throw in random 90's cuz they look cool.
The simplist option would be to paralell the cards if your that anal about tubing layout, and it would solve your uneven core issue.
oh one more thing, the best way to test it is to load up your GPU's and watch GPU 1 or 2 SKY rocket, while the other stays almost FLAT.
That is the result i and many others got while twiddling with this setup.
Was a great waste of 4 hours. :P
wow great build!
and i have a question for you (cause you have a mozart tx to, mine arived yesterday :P: ) i have read the manual but the pictures in there are soo bad and i can't find what i was wondering on the internet to..
so the question is: where exactly doesn the mylar tape supposed to go??
greatings, dope
a) I really don't understand your postQuote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
b) If you're talking about dual loops vs. single loops then it still doesn't make sense
c) When my machine is pulling 500 watts from the wall, with both GPUs going flat-out for many many hours, both cards are still within 1 degree
d) This IS a parallel layout
Forgive me if I misunderstood, but it's not clear what you're talking about.
Hey Dope, thanks man!Quote:
Originally Posted by dopestuff
The mylar tape goes over the raised cutouts underneath the motherboard. I think there are 2. They could potentially touch the mobo and short it out. These mounts are designed for the BX standard IIRC, which is pretty scarce anyhow, so I just removed them with a cutoff wheel since I never plan to use them.
okey im sorry. Lemme see if i can simplify myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunayknits
I am only talking about your gpu loop.
You said you had the first card setup as inlet outlet, and connected to the second card.
Basically the water is going in a U. The first card will heat up while the second card will stay still.
You said it was okey to config it like this. I am saying its not, because you'll have a very big delta between card 1 and card 2.
DB also warned you about this type of config, and you still said it was okey.
I am mearly double verifying what DB said. I have tried that config, and as i said card 1 and card 2 has too much of a temperature delta.
2. Can you show a pic of this. Cuz i never could get 1C within the cards. AS i said I noticed it being more then 10-15C varianace.
A program like ATI Tool or RTHDRIBL is great to load up your gpus
3. No a true paralell would have = flow to both cards. So inlet would be on both card 1 and 2 using a Y and exit via card 1 and 2 on outlet via Y.
Once again here is DB saying IT WONT WORK.
And i am saying ive tested this, and IT DOESNT WORK.
If you have pictures of it working. I would definitely like to see them. Im not calling shins, if you have a working setup, i would like to see how you pulled it off.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
The closest i got to it was using a 3/8th id tubing instead of 1/2id tubing for the bridge on gpu1 and gpu2.
Adding restriction to the bottom cards will allow more water to flow to the top card. This might work, but i still wasnt happy with the temp deltas.
My last attempt although very painful, was to use some form of reducers to mirror the flow. Another failed attempted. :X
Sunay please dont get me wrong, i am really curious on how you pulled it off. I would love to tube like that, but my OCD wont allow my gpu's to be like that unless i can = the temps.
I like your Mozart TX Dual Loop
This my MoZart
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...Build/b25r.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...iator/R14r.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...Build/b19r.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b.../Final/t4r.jpg
wait 4 upgrade 2 Dual Loop