after reading thru the abit forums, i think the bios was pulled coz it made some boards show up as ip35 V in cpuz... mine shows ip35-e so maybe im just lucky
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after reading thru the abit forums, i think the bios was pulled coz it made some boards show up as ip35 V in cpuz... mine shows ip35-e so maybe im just lucky
Alright thanks. I guess I will just have to flash to 12 and call it good. Wish I could get the faster restart time though. Although the person that the computer is for wont care.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly
14 BIOS is quite good with my setup.
Resolves double Post as long as PSU is not disconnected from AC outlet. SP time is just a hair slower than 12 BIOS. This deficit amounts to about 8MHz core speed. BIOS adds HD audio support. USB keyboard works after BIOS reset since the default setting has changed from OS to BIOS. Includes 1:1.60 memory divider.
12 BIOS:
1M SP...16.265 sec
32M SP...15 min 6 sec
14 BIOS:
1M SP...16.297 sec
32M SP...15 min 10 sec
Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
Where did you get BIOS 14? I only see BIOS 13 on their website.
It's probably too new to show up at the Abit USA forum... Download 12 BIOS. Replace this file with the 12 BIOS file. Be sure to rename this file to m630a_12.bin
http://www.abit.com.cn/bios/IP35-E/M630A_14.BIN
14 bios can be had here,
http://www.abit.com.cn/bios/IP35-E/M630A_14.BIN
its a beta though.. so flash at ur own risk.. though a few guys have sucessfully did it and is qutie happy bout it..
Hey guys, sorry to hijack but what's the difference between the IP35-E and the Pro?
Is the pro worth it for the extra cost?
What cooling do you guys have on your e4300s?
Also what mobo did you have them on before, and what was there max OC on them?
I have a e4300@3.0Ghz on a evga 650i just curious if it be worth the upgrade, also curious how this Abit stacks up against the Gigabyte P35s. This doesn't have solid caps or does it? I hear these are real picky about memory think Firestix DDR2 6400 would work?
Anyone have a working link to one of the Abit OC guides?
They share many core circuits to save $. Pro adds 1394, RAID, two more SATA headers, extra fan header, GURU overclocking, fan control on three AUX fan headers, eSATA, extra GPU slot, and heat pipe cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by eknny
I would stick with the 650i. For best compatibility, stick with JEDEC 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Glow9
http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...&enterthread=y
Does the official 13 BIOS fix the double boot issue?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PC_User
Use 14 BIOS. It's much better than 13. No double post.
I guess I don't follow seems like a lot of people are just using whatever ram and it seems to be fine this sounds like DFI nazis again. MY stix have Micron D9 chips in them so I'd consider them pretty good. So whats the deal with the whole jedec ect ect. Cause I know I can push these pretty high.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
Bios 14 beta and i still cant get the fans Eq on this board to Eq, i try every adjustments and still nothing.
Works fine here. There is nothing magic with fan speed control. This board will run fine with 2 wire fan. Check for poper pin location on page 2-8.
Is there such a thing as overclocking CPU? The CPU should run fine at default voltage. Same logic with RAMs. The official voltage for JEDEC DDR2 667 and 800 is 1.8V. If the RAM will not POST at 1.8V, then it is JUNK!Quote:
Originally Posted by Glow9
Thats some low volts for ram or seems like it why does it need so low voltage ram?Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
The industry's standard for DDR2 667 or 800 is 1.8V. Quality DDR2 800 will POST at 400MHz with 1.8V, and run at +450MHz/4-4-4-12-2T with 2.0Vdimm.
Some vendors will take 1.8V DDR2 667 RAMs and market these modules as "overclocking" 2.1V DDR2 800. That's why some of these modules will not POST with 1.8V/400MHz.
14 is beta and I wouldn't want to risk putting a beta bios on my PC. I'm currently using the 12 with no problems (other than double boot), but since I don't turn off my PC, it's not a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
I've just setup my IP35-E and I concur with the insane PWM temps. My setup:Quote:
Originally Posted by NJDevilsFan21
Q6600 Stepping: L26A 'G0'
IP35-E bios 12
Seasonic S12 600W
Water cooled
G.Skill F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ (2x2GB)
Gigabyte 7600GT (I forget what video card I have exactly)
Samsung 500GB
Pioneer DVD112
Vista Ultimate 64bit
I'm aiming for 24/7 prime stable. I was hoping for 3.6GHz.
The CPU I have seems to be very good. I've been able to Prime for 8 hours (before I stopped it manually) at 3402GHz (378 x 9), loose ram timings so far at 5-5-5-15. The only voltage changes are up 1.415v in the bios and CPU-Z reports 1.304v while Priming all 4 cores (using Prime 25.5, 64bit). Temperatures using coretemp are 57C full load while priming. (Idle is 26-31C)
The problem is that the PWM temps are seemingly insane - while it was Prime stable for over 8 hours, using Abit EQ reports the PWM temps to be at 124C!! I touched the heatsink for the northbridge - which was hot and also the other heatsink near the mosfets - it nearly burned my fingers off! Pointing a fan at that heatsink reduced the temps to 85C. (the PWM idles at 50C)
I've actually replaced the southbridge with a Zalman nb47j heatsink and I've removed the tim from the northbridge and used arctic silver 5. the PWM heatsink, I've removed the tim pad and replaced with arctic ceramique. The fact that the heatsink seems is burning hot to the touch suggests that it's doing it's job?
Nevertheless, I'm planning on taking out the motherboard and remounting the heatsinks etc just to be sure. (A pain since everything is so cramped with all the tubes going everywhere).
When attempting for 3.6GHz (400 x 9), I've upped the volts to 1.515v and this equates to around 1.408v while priming. While it's priming, the PWM rises rapidly (>120C) and then the whole computer shuts off - but it's not like it craps out in Prime at all - it's still reporting that it's ok. I think there's an auto shutoff somewhere - although I think that I've turned them all off in the BIOS. I still have C1E and Speedstep enabled.
Does anyone else get such high PWM temps. I don't really want to point a fan at it as I'd prefer it to be quieter, but it seems like I haven't much choice if the remounting fails.
An overclocked quad will draw a lot of current from the output devices. You must have cold air flowing over the fins to lower the temperature. No fancy heatpipe is going to address the high temp if you don't have a constant stream of cold air blowing on the board.
i wonder what temps would be if you did the bolt mod like on the Pro on just the PWN heatsink.
i'm going to be in the same boat as you kai. i plan on watercooling my cpu and eventually getting a 45nm quad. as much as i love this board, issues with high PWN temps when paired with a quad is the only thing i'm worried about and i also don't want to add another fan to my case just to cool it.
would using copper ramsinks replacing the PWN heatsink help in temps?
Is anyone actually MEASURING the vdroop with a multimeter?
There is little benefit with the bolt-mod if the PWM heatsink is flat. Unlike the IP35 Pro, the PWM heat sink on this board should provide good contact with only two pins and no heat pipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya
How do you expect to evacuate heat from the heat sink without air flow? This is heat transfer 101!
After much messing about (I really need to get a bigger case!), I just got the whole motherboard out and took off the PWM heatsink and also the northbridge heatsink.Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya
On inspection, the PWM heatsink is actually very concave(!), measured with a straight ruler, there is an alarming gap in the middle. This also resulted in less than favourable contact on the middle sets of chips the heatsink is supposed to cool. Unfortunately, I don't have any sandpaper right now to lap (and nor do I really want to) and so a new layer of Arctic Ceramique was applied, with a thicker bit for the middle so that more contact could be made.
At the same time, the northbridge heatsink was reseated as was the cpu waterblock.
Everything was put back into place and with great expectations, I fired it up and started priming away.
The short of it all is that the PWM temp is now 113C (!), which is still very high, but better than 124C, a drop of 10C. As for the CPU, it now reads: 54/50/55/55C across all four cores. (I don't know why core 1 is so low, it was like that before too) This is after Priming small FFT (max CPU) for about an hour (still going), again at 378 x 9 = 3402MHz, CPU-Z reading of 1.320v (1.415v in BIOS).
To be honest, I'm not really sure what to do next.
In my first post, I aimed a 12cm fan (running at 7v) at the PWM heatsink, which reduced the temperature at load to 85C.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
There is also an exhaust fan (12cm) directly above, as well as the PSU (again 12cm and exhaust). There are also a further two 12cm fans exhausting air near the front top of the case.
It seems that the PWM area just runs very hot on this board. I've read reports of people who manage temps of 65C on load (with this board), but I can't see how this figure can be achieved unless you point a delta at that area.
were they running a quad? 65c PWM temp sounds like a dualcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by kai_
Supposedly. Take a look through the massive thread at http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...&enterthread=y . SerpentRoyal insists that it's possible to run <70C at the PWM with a quad core.Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya
Personally, I don't.
A 120mm @ 7V has very little air flow. Your problem is the concave PWM heat sink and lack of air flow. It's that simple. Heat transfer with paste is piss-poor. I'm seeing about 45C PWM nominal with a DC around 3.5GHz. Maximum in a hot room while priming is 53C.
The output devices on this board is IDENTICAL to those on the IP35 Pro. After putting a small fan on the Pro's PWM circuit, the temperature went down from 80s to 60s.
I think the heat transfer is actually very good - how else would you explain the heatsink to be burning hot to the touch? Heat transfer with paste is poor? How do you explain that one? It's got to be better than using the thick tim pad that was supplied, surely? I can't use Arctic Silver since the temperatures get too high and at high temps, Arctic Silver becomes conductive.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
A 120mm fan at 7v provides more than enough airflow - especially when it's pointed right at it in an open case. (I'm still in the testing phase)
You are seeing 45C simply because you are running a dual core processor. I'm running a quad core. Although I can't prove that quad cores run the PWM temps higher (than dual cores), it is generally regarded as so.
If the heat sink is hot, then there is insufficient air flow to cool the heat sink. Others have seen sub 65C PWM with Q6600 @ 3.7GHz.
Go to the library and get a few books on heat transfer...conduction, convection, and radiation.
new beta 14 bios, this is 14-05 not the 14-04 which was posted before, just found this at the abit forums
The click herel
Using GTLREF 67% and bumping vcore to 1.43 v BIOS (1.38 actual) and MCH to 1.47 v I was able to get a Q6600 G0 to 3280 MHz and abit IP35-E to 410 fsb. Ok running f@h SMP 24/7. Air cooled with Scythe Mine B. I was wrong about the NB, it's actually cooler than the gigabyte P965-DS3. Board runs fine at 410 fsb but will not post at 450, and I permanently killed the onboard NIC trying to post at 450 fsb.
how'd the nic die? did you juice vsb (vpcie) too much?
with a better heatsink, you might be able to just do 9x400=3600
I haven't juiced PCIE at all. I assume the board has a PCIE lock, so why would it need juice? I'm not even running a PCIE card, just an old 2 MB ATI PCI card.. It's a known problem for onboard NIC to go when running fsb way out of spec.. my P965-DS3 NIC also conks out when the mobo is above 480 fsb, but it came back at a lower fsb. I had to clear CMOS by popping the battery and removing the ATX power cables and shorting the CMOS jumper for a good 30 sec before my abit IP35-E board would POST after a failed attempted overclock to 450 fsb at only 63% GTLREF. 67% is a MUST on this board for high fsb quad core overclocking. Increasing MCH stabilized booting into Windows.
I find it unlikely that f@h would be stable at 3.68 GHz (next multiplier up) and along with increasing vcore requirements, makes me not interested at all in running it faster than it is now.
I just replaced my P965 DFi with this board.
Specs : Q6600, 2GB Crucial D9gmh, 8800GT.
How do I go about flashing the bios? will I see improvements over the stock bios I have? IS there any bios CD's that people have made much like the Tmod's DFI bios/utilites disk?
I also made the switch from dfi, but my ip35e is dead at the moment. You can flash from floppy, from windows, etc, similarly to dfi.
most recommend flashing with a floppy/flash drive method. if your like me and lazy to break out the floppy drive, you can do it in windows with FlashMenu thats on the cd. just make sure your running your system at stock clocks so you don't get a halfass flash and screw up your board.
yeah same here.. im too lazy to break out the floppy to. i use the flash menu since the first bios release came out.. flashed every bios since.. so far no problems.. just make sure u clear cmos before flash ( to make sure ur system is running at stock , so no unexpected crashes ) and after as well ( common sense) ..
Im running my e6600@3.6ghz 1.435 vcore droop makes it around 1.38 my pwm under folding never tops 60c usualy never even hits 55c. I got a small chipset fan mounted on top of it. On the nic issue i had my board up to 480fsb and never lost nic and i ran it at 450x8 for like 3 months no problems. Had to drop it to 400x9 when i got some free ram and wanted to give my pc 4gigs and run vista 64bit.
nice dan those 21xx chips are great overclockers but i love my e6600.
thanks whats the max voltage you think i could push with air?
:confused:
1.5 with that cooler. 1.6 if temps permit and if your crazy. this is XS afterall.
This board is badass for the money. I just used it for my friends build. The double post is slightly annoying but it overclocked very easy. The same chip that needed 1.42v to run 3.2ghz on my DFI P965-S only needed 1.35v on my buddy's build with this board. I almost wanted to swap it out for my DFI. I'm too damned honest though.:)
grips instal bios 14 it nearly wipes out the double boot. Iv even had my pc taken apart and when i pluged it back in no double boot.
thinking about getting this board, but the egg seems to not carry it anymore. anyone know where to get it for the price the egg had? i think it was around $87.
thx
whoops.. nvm found it.
ill go with 1.55 maybe 1.6 i have an l2 chip it feels like it has a fsb wall of 356. but i also havent pused more than 1.4 thru it ill give it a try my goal is 400fsb
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...dy160/comp.jpg
thats how i cooled it before the ac freezer7pro
Any idea what the difference between 14-04 and 05 is? I am using 04 now.Quote:
Originally Posted by lolhalol
danmody how is freezer 64pro compared to stock?
damn near any aftermarket cooler is better then stock. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
well its worth it all the way i dont get above 48c and with the stock it would get to 60c or shut down **the nb will kinda get in the way sand dremel it down or make the cooler suck air from the top
** i have the auto shut down set a 60c
What is GTLREF? I have been reading around but haven't seen this acronym before.
Also, I second the question about availability...Newegg had it dirty cheap, but every place I've found it now (using the TH price grabber) wants a lot more for it - almost enough to make me go with the P5K-E instead, but I'd rather save the money and get this board.
The abit board is a nice one.
I made 4ghz with my e6750 for some benches.
Needed 1.67 to get there tho.
13725p with 3dmark06 with a 8800GT single card with Vista is pretty nice.
Made sub 13sek on 1m super pi and sub 13min on 32mb.
8x500fsb so pleased with the board.
However, the winter is here -15c so using the door a tad open the temps was let say, decent ;)
3800mhz 24/7 seems like a nice all around middlepoint.
Where can I find the newest (beta)-BIOS? Can it fix this F''''n' double boot? Arg.
1.54V @ 3870MHz Prime stable.
1.6075V @ 4104MHz SP1M (bios) with +25C air. (Tuniq Tower)
I'm quite happy about this cheap MoBo.
i can not pass the 412mhz fsb.
e2160 @ 1.585v max 412mhz x 9
and 450mhz x 8 doesn't boot
maybe need more voltage for the south/north bridge ?
See 1st post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boble76
http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...&enterthread=y
E21x0 and E4xx0 are limited to about 425MHz FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewv
New overclocker,guys,I say the best you can have till now: beta 14_08 (26 Nov).:banana: :up:
It reached 365 FSB,others only 350 on my system.
This mobo rocks with 14_08 ! :yepp:
where you got this ?Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=277402
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...60/cpumark.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...60/3419mhz.jpg
pushed hthe voltage to 1.56 and got to 3.4 but too temps are way to high waiting on watercooling before i run it @3.4 all the time
By testing seven E4300 and two E2140 CPUs. They all run out of gas just north of 420MHz FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewv
i saw 2 e2160 @ 430mhz :\
430 its a high level - sux
yea but for around $80 430fsb x9 is still a good value im at 3.4 hopefully 3.6 with w/c and somevoltage. For the money you cant beat this little amd eaterQuote:
Originally Posted by Andrewv
:rofl:
the new bios versions will be able to put vcore under 1.35v ?
the low level for the CPU Vcore setting will be set according to your CPU's VID.
I guess that yours is 1.35V
in GB mobos you can set vcore under the VID
i had mine at 1.31 before
I like this board a lot too. Need to get off my ass and rma it so I can use it again. Meanwhile been stuck with my old dfi p965
I just got one of these boards, have a few questions for you guys.
First off when ever i restart it hangs when searching for IDE or SATA drives (only thing in is a IDE DVD) i run OS from pci scsi. i updated bios to 14 and it still does it. also it has a really weird restart after bios or sometimes turn on, where it turns on then off and when its off it takes nearly 5 sec (the time for the cpu fan to spin down completely and then it turns back on again) is that normal for such a long time to restart?
Im running a e2140 chip in it and its not clocking past 415mhz fsb regardless of multi (change from 8 to 6)
What settings do you guys run to get higher fsb's? what CPU vtt ? what northbridge voltage? what southbridge voltage? I have disabled the slow down things under cpu options. Ive seen people get fantastic fsb speeds with this motherboard just curios on the settings that they use.
thanks
e2140 has low fsb wall.Quote:
Originally Posted by chatmaster
due to 800mhz buss.
415fsb seems pretty good to me.
More than that I guess will be hard to do without excessive freezecooling.
double boot is a Intel chipset issue, some bios can fix it if you dont remove the powercabel.
(its a intel thingy)
Just live with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chatmaster
Go into BIOS and set the boot HDD as 1st boot device. Disable booting all other devices. Connecting USB card reader, USB HDD, or other USB devices during POST can cause slow/no POST.
E21x0 and E4xx0 CPUs are limited to about 425MHz FSB. Need to step up to E6xx0 to approach 500MHz FSB.
Thanks for the responses so far guys they have been a great help.
My other questions are that its very cold the cpu, never gets about 38*C its under a TT big typhoon and a/c in the room. could it be it needs more volts? If i put more volts at this low temperature cpu will it do less damage? I have tried @ 1.525v and i can get it at 3.3ghz thats it. 415mhz fsb is the max. Ive seen some people get alot more with their e2xxx was that with sub zero cooling?
What settings do you guys use to get high fsb's? cause if its my chip thats holding me back no need to up the volts on northbridge.
atm i went up 2 voltage increases on northbridge, 1 increase on southbridge and 1 increase on that CPU VTT which i dont understand what it does though? what is CPU VTT?
Can someone who is getting 450+ mhz tell me what settings they are running on their northbridge and southbridge voltages please.
Thanks
Luck of the draw with CPU. Most of these chips will max out around 425MHz FSB. Don't be greedy.Quote:
Originally Posted by chatmaster
Download Coretemp 0.95.4 to check CPU temp under Orthos large mode. Add 15C if your temp is too low. You should see at least 50C under Orthos.
the board is absolutely incredible for its value... I can boot to windows at 500+fsb, but can prime stable at no more than 492Mhz. Gives me a nice 50% overclock on my E6750 at 1.57Vcore on Air!!! temps never exceed 65C after hours of orthos. Happy camper here.
I guess bios 14 is the culprit for such juicy OC. :p:
I've achieved the same level of overclock with 12 BIOS. This one is a hair faster than 14 under SP. Also note that 14 can cause your FSB to revert to 200MHz after the first cold boot. Shut down and restart the PC will restore the FSB setting in BIOS. Guess the double post patch isn't 100% reliable, yet.
The board for its price have been absolutly the best buy I ever made in several years.Quote:
Originally Posted by milan03
Stable, fast and hasslefree.
:welcome:
my IP35-E can do 415mhz (unstable) with GTLREF 63% ...
what the difference between GTLREF 63 and 67 %
how the GTLREF improve the OC ?
I've been told that I should actually keep my GTLREF on default since im using Core 2 Duo... Only Quad Core chips should increase that setting. I decrease mine back to default.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewv
Feel free to experiment. if 65 or 67% yields stability at higher speed, then there is no downside.
is there a difference in clocking abilities btw the E version and the pro version?
Perhaps 10MHz lower with -E. I've seen posts with 500MHz. There was another who could hit 525MHz at ridiculous Vcore. Very few chips can crack the 500MHz FSB barrier. Most E6xx0 chips will top out around 490 to 500MHz.
does SCYNTHE INFINITY fit on this mobo?
Yup.Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
LOL, the first post of this thread I did 500MHz. Post #6 I did 510.Quote:
Originally Posted by furballi
any experience using quadcore with the ip35-e?
If any difference in regard to the ip35-pro
No issue with Q6600. A few were able to hit +3.8GHz. Heat was the major source of bottleneck on air. You'll need a good downdraft CPU cooler like the Big Typhoon modded with a medium speed 120mm fan or add active cooling to the PWM heat sink to keep MOSFET temp under 70C. The additional air flow will also benefit the NB cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by flopper
Not much difference I presume,look over here a 4 GHz hit(on air). ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by flopper
My IP35-E died--weird issues. Check the uAbit forum (pg3) for more info. Check sig for my specs.
I'm not sure but my IP35 PRO is just gay :(
Did anyone tried just unplug hdd from old system and plug it into new system without reinstalling everything?
I've tried this operation from 945P to Q965,than from Q965 to P35.Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
Not a problem,some XP errors until new chipset drivers were installed (and the former removed).
so basically i might do this way:
safe mode, remove chipset and everything related to old mobo and proc....remove , plug into new system....and boot normally...install new chipset?
i'm asking for ASUS M2N SLI DLX to ABIT IP35-E :P
major you did same intel that way it worked, i'm not optimistic :P
this worked for me, it's much safer when changing mobos especially if your going from an AMD to Intel chipset ...
Upgrading a Motherboard without Reinstalling:
http://www.ngohq.com/home.php?page=A...read&arc_id=36
thanks for link WSX.
your welcome
I havent been able to find any information yet, but what are the corresponding devices to temperature readings?
Ive got System, AUX and Temp1. Now System never gets above 38*C but AUX is the one that gets the hotest. Im assuming that the AUX is measuring the temperatures for the PWM chips but im not 100% sure.
I remounted both the northbridge and PWM coolers with arctic creamique and bolts and nuts instead of the lousy push pins. Seems to make a little difference. Atm highest temperature of AUX is 69*C with a TT BT and a e6300 @ 3.4ghz (485fsb), Temp1 never gets above 53*C.
The thing that gets me is that before temp1 used to be higher than AUX after the mounting with the bolts AUX is higher than Temp1.