Poor disruptfam :(
Now I have an urge to do a similar mod with the TJ07's or the V2000's instead. Damn you!
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Poor disruptfam :(
Now I have an urge to do a similar mod with the TJ07's or the V2000's instead. Damn you!
Now that would be Xtreme!:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabien
Woh, disrupt', capped on the 2nd.
Does that mean capped 'till the end of the month?
Haven't ever been sure if it's better showing the pics this size (800x600) so they're really the thread and tell most of it by themselves or if I should thumbnail them.
Personally I hate linking to pics and tend to only view a few like that. Still it's better for the bandwidth-challenged.
Really like having a black plug on the Corsair ram cooler. Even thought of taking the mobo back out and switching in black fan headers on it, but that'd be crazy. Wouldn't it?
Suppose it would.
Might look good though?
Hmmm...
Well after seeing this build and the fact that I already have one, it's an idea that has really grown on me as of late.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Would you still be able to rma a board that has been touched like so? Could always nicko them black? :PQuote:
Really like having a black plug on the Corsair ram cooler. Even thought of taking the mobo back out and switching in black fan headers on it, but that'd be crazy. Wouldn't it?
Suppose it would.
Might look good though?
Hmmm...
capped until the 6th not 2 bad....
That's very similar to how I got started.Quote:
Originally Posted by step
When you already have one of the cases, it's not such a big step to add a second. That applies even more in Oz with no 343 or MM quad style cases available.
In a V2000 based version you'd have no hassle putting two triple rads below.
You'd have tremendous choice and flexibility over your layout.
Is your existing case silver or black?
hey jedda mate did ya get my pm from yesterday?
Disruptfam
PM answered, mate.
Tiro_uspsss
Actually, the Corsair RAM cooler wasn't painted black. It comes in a black anodised brush finish bedecked in flash Corsair stickers.
RX7borica came up with removing the big blue top sticker and switching the hub stickers while building his MM UFO Horizon.
I just took it a bit further, removing all the stickers, switching to a black plug and hub stickers. It's easy enough to do, looks great and you can store the stickers if you want. A spare anti-static bag makes a good storage solution.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...orsairfan3.png
yeah i did mine the other day... real easy took all the sticker's off won't be using them again.... so storage ain't a issue for me...
(looks some much better without the sticker's)
Nice to hear you got your mofset block mate..
cheers
Got the water temp sensors in. Temp in and out on both rads.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ingsensors.png
Hooked the pumps etc.
If it ever got a third loop I'd put the T-lines over one pump. So the three Fill-ports would each feed the pump below, rather than the current offset.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ngFitpumps.png
This is sooo sweet. I hope to do this someday, have the time and cash to build a second monster comp while keeping my main up and running.
Doin great Jedda! And your setup will last forever, just update the insides. Well until we have warp hole processors. And "Unobtanium" rads.
Looking good... nice to see progress.... only took 20mins to load haha
I like the way you mounted you pump's i will be doing the same with mine :)
Hey jedda can i just use a lighter to heat up the heat shrink onto the sleeving..?
what size sleeving and what size heat shrink will i need to sleeve all my fan's pump's etc
Thanks guys:D
I used 1/4 inch or the next up depending on how many wires.
Have used a lighter to shrink but can tell you it's a lousy feeling to melt through the sleeving by accident while doing the heat shrink.:(
Got to be a bit careful using an open flame to do it. Your chick got a hairdryer?
Yeah, it's been a bit slow but I've built two others for relatives while it's been being built.
Gotta finish it 'cause my chick is jonesing for the one I'm using to post.
hairdryer?? yes she certainly does.... :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Drive bays but without the BigNg in place yet. It'll go in shortly once leak testing finishes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../Drivebays.png
The loops atm without MOSFET blocks.
Still sorting backplates and the second MOSFET block.
It'll all look a tad neater once the leads are plugged in. Currently they're all over the place, unplugged, for leak test.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../FirstLoop.png
There's no kinks, it just looks that way in this pic.
looks real good mate...what tubing are you using??
looks real neat imo...
very nice work on routing the tubing... real clean!
Tubing is 7/16" Tygon B44-3. It's the food grade one they do. Recker turned me on to the stuff as it stays clear and has no leaching. Couldn't find it in Oz. Even the local company didn't know where it sold retail. Had to get Sidewinder to send it over.
Bit of a pity its so hard to get.
do you find you ram fan noisy?? i was playing with it today and it give's off a buzzing noise 1 fan was louder than the other two...Sounded like it was hitting something... i shaved some of the inside of the noisy fan with a razor blade seems to be a bit better but still get that weird noise any idea's?
cheers
It's quieter than the OCZ cooler but all the little fans seem to be a bit of a pain. I have the Corsair turned down a fair bit.
For some weird reason, they get more quieter as you run them. As weird/dumb as it sounds. It's like they need a burn in period to quiet them down...
Quite likely!Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldy402
One discovery of Cathar's 120mm fan testing was the need for a run in period.
how the leak test go mate... good??
I was wondering when i fill my loop up can i run it as distilled water and pt_nuke and and leave it clear to see what it looks like and add dye later,into the loop??
cheers
Well as much as I'd like to look good the truth is I had a leak.
Investigation reveals the GPU block o-ring had jumped its groove while assembling. One downside to the acetal backs is you can't see if that's happened.
I think the o-ring will be OK. It was pinched where it exited and re-entered the groove but not badly enough to demand replacement.
Looking at it side on the two pinched bits still stand proud of the groove. So it should still seal. Fingers crossed for test #2 later tonight. lol
Eddy says the second MOSFET block is due next week, so I'll get a spare o-ring sent too.
I don't see any problem with adding the dye later bit by bit. Don't think I'd want to dump a loops worth of concentrate into the res with some brands but a little at a time should get it dissolved evenly through your solution.
no leakage on any hardware then??Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Very little. I pulled the vid card and front drives, dried them off and drowned with electronic cleaner. Should be OK
OK, cleaned and dried everything.
Refilled and try again.
Am happy to report both loops have passed the leak test. Ran 24 hours to scavenge the last tiny micro-bubbles, as T-lines take a fair bit longer to collect all the air.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...stmoboside.png
Have to say, I'm amazed by how quiet the pumps are.
I'm in a rural village with no traffic noise, and at midnight things are pretty quiet around here. The only way to tell the pumps were running was to feel for PSU fan air!
Turning the psu on or off let you see the water surge in the T-lines as the pumps start or stop but otherwise they're silent.
With two DDC2's I screwed my PTS heads down very gently and that may have some effect. I was a bit concerned it might be too loose but after a 48 hour run there's no sign of leaking.
Mounted as they are seems to keep them running cool, slightly warm to the touch underneath. Might have to put a corner suport in on one of them though as tube pressure is canting one over a bit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tpumpside2.png
I'll connect everything up and boot it tomorrow.
I'm still waiting for the second EK MOSFET block and wont add the first 'till it arrives. that gives me some time to evaluate these loops and decide on the final layout.
I have everything for a third loop on hand, using a PA120.0 on the rear exhaust fan rear half. However its really only justified if I put SLI on the second loop. For the moment it'll be driving two 20" monitors so SLI isn't really necessary.
Decisions decisions...
awesome... i like how you went with 2 blue loop's.... More update's!!!
Hey mate... where could i neoprene... from???
Is there a Clark Rubber near you?
I've got it from them in the past. There's a craft place near me where I'm getting the stick on neoprene for the backboards. Coming along. Haven't rushed 'cause I figure theres time to get two sets organised before EK MOSFET 680-2 arrives.
cheers mate...
How thick will the backplate be ??? 2,3mm??
First go will be 2mm. Should be OK with the light forces involved.
I have all the socket and block dimensions so its really just down to how loose to make the hole dia to allow for manufacturing variation. Getting some screws the right length should be OK too.
kool...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Hey what brand gtx do you have??
Its just the Inno3D GF 8800GTX PCI-E 768MB 575/1800MHz.
I went for the lower cost figuring I'd either buy two or resell. Turns out a nice card.
Swapped out its end plate for a single slot plate when I took the AC off. Helps a little with access.
So much wiring to run around with the M-cube stuff.
8 Sensors before I even start on the mobo!
Keeping track of it all is getting challenging. lol
look 4ward to more updates mate
Poor quality pic but it does show the GPU single end plate.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...PUendplate.png
A pic of the single 8800 end plate for anyone interested.
Very easy to knock up or you can pick one up from PerfPC.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Bracket_01.jpg
Very happy with the result of a trial boot.
It works, it works:up:
Just have to finish wiring up all the sensors.
The hub has water temp in and out on both rads, with air temp in on both as well. Air temp out is on the Bigng itself.
Had to separate the case ribbon cable to set up its mechanical shut down. If any temp goes high it presses the on off switch. Woot!
Lotsa wiring though.
Check out the leads off the hub!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ubinstall2.png
They'll all tidy up easily though.
Just the Bigng to go with another four analogue and a bunch of digital sensors to run and its up and running.
awesome!!!!!!
Getting close to finishing that beast!!! :)
Looking forward to it. With the doc's orders keeping the time free to work on it restricted, the build has taken far too long.
Some up-side though. The little details have been all thought out.
I split the second front case lead up so its LEDs could be used for M-cube and DVD drive status.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Ribbonlead.png
The second case on/off switch will open and close the stealthed DVD drive ultimately. There's a few small detailed mods to finish off after its running.
Brilliant work so far, awesome cable management (especially considering all the temp probes etc)! It must be nice knowing what you have is totally unique :up:
Quick question for you; What was the shipping cost for the EK8800 block? I can't imagine it was overly expensive?
depends where you get it from....Quote:
Originally Posted by .Logic
Flabbergast.com.au (aussie site based in sydney) now stock's ek blocks including the ek fc 8800gtx block acetal top...
http://www.flabbergast.com.au/ek-fc8...ra-acetal.html
So maybe $10 postage.. to you :) If you want one from them i would hurry as they have limited stock
hope that helps..
.Logic
For 4 blocks shipping from EK direct was $30Au. There was a Slovenian tax too that was 20% on the blocks cost.
Eddy is very helpfull but delivery is slow. If you can source from flabbergast or PTS, do so.
Thanks for the kind words.
Its been quite a job running all the M-cube internal usb connections and 14 separate temp sensors. lol Am I crazy? Certainly Xtreme.
So far I haven't seen anyone show detailed pics of their M-cube layout. So I'm hoping to add a bunch of pics of it all soon. Now I have a macro mode camera available it will be possible to get the close ups needed.
I'm no great thorough tester like some of the guys but I've always wanted to know what's going on in detail and the result of changes made. I finally get to have that with this build.
Good to be confidant of a shutdown if any temps go over spec while its unattended or I'm not paying attention.
Ultimately there'll be another 8800gtx and a hardware raid card with more drives added, because its main task is 3D modeling and graphic work. So it'll be nice to feel confidant the loops are secure.
If a DDC does cark on me, that'll be all I lose.
very nice updates jedda. keep em coming.
good job on the wiring.
With the top rad and tubes so far forward there's not a lot of room in the left front at the top
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ingsensors.png
But that's OK, because we don't need a lot of room.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Dinstalled.png
It'll mainly display M-cube and Everest readings.
I've never used one before and it might be little used after the novelty wears off. We'll see? :shrug:
It was a Chilled PC Oz demonstrater and thus very inexpensive, so I thought, "why not?" It hooks up to an internal usb port and can display a bunch of stuff.
Septim,
Thanks for posting. Its nice to see what folks think.
I've been a bit obsessed with getting the wiring neat. Just hate multi coloured tangle. Its nice to have sleeving and plugs all match up. Take a little time to get it right. Otherwise I'd always regret I didn't.
I like the LCD and all of your attention to detail. Nice Job!
i was thinking of getting one of them lcd displays ahwile back..but was way to expensive for my taste's..glad to see you got one cheap mate!!! :)
looks nice!!!
Shazza
Thanks. All the detail is soaking up time though.
Onward with the wiring.
Got the Bigng hooked up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nginstall3.png
And tucked up into its possie, or nearly in position. It'll be a couple of inches further in when done. I've kept it out a bit for access during break in. Like the sensor hub, theres a bit of wire placement to finish off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nginstall2.png
Getting there!
Great lcd and control setup here...
I will go this way with my project as well (phase 2) with a Aquaero VFD display and DDC pump controller and Aquaero relay to shutdown on determined parameters. it's 300$ already so I'm shopping to find cheaper prices or find used from someone else who are tired of watercooling.
just my personnal oppinion, maybe you should have gone color coded with your connectors. it could have save you some time pluging which to which...
but anyway, i will wait for some more pictures, you have an A for effort...
and i like the BigNG stuff, hopefully come next year i may have some budget for PC upgrade...
Septim
Colour coding has merit but I decided early on to stick as close as I could to black and silver for everything.
Most wiring isn't hard to keep track of but in a couple of places I used chrome sleeving to make sure of a difficult lead. If you look at the Bigng pic above, its USB lead is one I chrome sleeved.
Now its going in I've got the M-cube stuff sussed and think the Bigng and Sensor Hub is good value. Its very configurable and should last for years. Hell you could even put a sensor on your DDC base set for a shut down at your choice of temp, if you're really paranoid. lol
I really like having a few extra digital sensors so I can investigate ram, mosfet, airflow etc or any other area to see exactly what is happening. Beats the hell out of guessing.
Xilikon
I looked at M-cube, Crystalfontz, Matrix Orbital, Aquaero etc but am happy with this choice. I haven't used a MiniNg to control each DDC but could've. In the end it would've been unrewarding balanced against the extra complexity.
I might change my mind in the future. I know Recker did that and likes it for his build.
Just how or if, I use the two side exhaust fans is one thing the sensors will help me decide. The second side one could give a good airflow onto the back of the mobo and the first can exhaust my GPU area. Whether using them is worthwhile should be interesting to discover and where having the number of sensors pays off..
Yeah, I lucked out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
Its an Alphacool LCD hooked up by usb and can run a whole bunch of apps.
At the time, the one thing I didn't like about the M-cube was its lack of a display, like Matrix Orbital and others. Chilled were stripping their showroom demonstrator, so I took the chance.
Now I'm more familiar with using the BigNg, the LCD doesn't seem as important and there's other places the money would be better spent if you were paying full price.
Quite pleased with the loop colour. Sort of gun metal blue/grey against the silver and black.
So many of the pics don't really show how it is in the flesh. In this pic of the top rad air out sensor the grill looks black, instead of silver.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...sortoprad1.png
And this close up of the analogue tip, which will be concealed behind the Thermochill lettering plaque, shows the grill as even blacker!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...sortoprad2.png
You don't see any of that copper colour either. Going to have to hone my Photoshop skills a bit more it seems.
it sort of looks like dust on your grills...
picture is a little too close up and with flash? try without flash?
Yeah it does but I think its noise.
You're probably right about the flash though. Might do a series of test pics to get a better grasp of how this camera behaves. Its new and all my experience is with film or cgi images. This digital photography is a murky hole in the middle of my knowledge field.
Crud!
Looks like my M-cube Sensor Hub was DOA.
The connection LED stays off what ever I do.
Have been over all connections and there's no reason it shouldn't be waking up but it isn't.
So I've had to disconnect the on/off button wiring. Will run it with just the BigNg until the replacement arrives.
Apart from that the box is up and running. Am busy loading soft' atm.
Will post some pics once its in its final possie, with all the periferals connected.
Have such a hang over today. Last night was a big one.
My faith in the Oz electorate was restored.
This was sooo worth following your link on ocau :)
Nice job mate, looks stock, could you hot glue the temp sensor to the base of the radgrill? i just have a funny feeling it will wave around when you move it lol.
Which leads to my next q? how heavy is it?
Thanks, glad you like it.
The pic was just to show the sensor. Its held under the grill by see-through double sided tape but hot glue would work well too.
I'm still at the point where sensors are being moved around as I chase down the airflow patterns and look for hot spots.
Hopefully I'll have something to post on temps and sensor feedback in a few days. The replacement Sensor Hub should be here then.
Its not as heavy as one might think. The V-series range of cases are strong where needed but designed with light well perforated aluminium throughout.
I can lift it in two hands to rotate, tilt around, etc for filling.. Its a one man job to carry it from room to room.
Must get it onto some scales and get an accurate number.
I can say, its a joy to work in, now its together. Easily the most accessible box I've ever had my hands in.
Adjusting, remounting, tuning etc, you can get at everything without having to take out components in the way.
I've had to do a bit of tinkering with the M-cube connections as the S/H was DOA and the BigNg didn't want to connect to the onboard usb headers through the extension lead I used. It was OK once connected directly. That took re-routing the usb lead through the innermost sections but even that wasn't hard to get at.
The LCD screen was OK with its usb header extension. So I still want to understand why its OK for one usb device but not the other. I'll have more to say on that in a M-cube round-up once the new S/H arrives.
Cheers
*waits For Final Pic's And Temps* :)
:up: :up: :up: :up: :up:
and waits for rad bolts too, eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
Strewth they've taken a long time! Was kinda hoping you'd have them for the weekend.
The replacement sensor hub arrived today. Swapped it in and was very happy to see its LED light up.
Woot! :up:
Rad fans have been running at 100% while waiting for the second S/H and can be heard running. Keeping everything cool though. Haven't seen a temp over 38° so far!
Now I can turn them down a bit as the M-cube curve settings get sorted.
Finding the daisy-chain digital sensor layout more convenient than I expected.
Ran a digital off the S/H bus to use in that side of the case.
I didn't realise you could run digital off the s/h, are you plugging it in under the usb? So you're able to run 2 digitals, one from the bigng, one from the analogue sensorhub.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
You daisy-chain them from the BigNg bus and the hub can be just one link in the chain.
I have digital 0, 1, 2, 3 off one bus on the Bigng and the other bus to the sensor hub. Then tonight I added digital 6 and 7 to the hub second bus.
I have the digital expansion add-on, of extra digital sensors, and now I know it can be run like this will be rerouting and using most of them.
I get it now, i think :) Without the digital expasion add-on i can't daisy chain the digital sensors, but i can run -
BigNg - Bus 1 - digital 1 - Bus2 - Sensorhub
Sensorhub - Bus 1 - BigNG - Bus 2 - digtal 2
I didn't actually notice the sensorhub had 2 busses ;) and the instructions never mentined pluggin in a digital sensor, and now it's hidden away at the back of my case and a bit inconvienient to access.
any updated pics and temps there jedda?? I've been hanging out for it :)
lol
Yeah, unless you pick up on this one pic that gave me the idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by bogg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ensorchain.png
The digital extension includes some 4-way connections and leads to join them. Really, the Sensor hub just plugs in like one of the 4-ways. It doesn't have to be direct off the T-ban.
They really need a re-write of the docs. Not too clear and slightly out of date, imho.
Loaded up my 3D apps and I'm in heaven!
I've wanted a box that'd drive XSI and modo like this for ages.
A render that took 3 hours on my old box went through in seven and a half minutes last night! Love that quad.
Just when you think its finished you stumble across someone else's work...
What about a 7" TFT?
Hmmmm...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...lers7inTFT.jpg
Not only has NightCrawler got th 7" in there, he's got Everest values displaying in Samurize, which plays nicely with Nav2!
Very tempting.
Maybe stage #2?
:eek2:
Very very tempting for me as well for my own project...
Been away for a fortnight so no progress or pix, sorry.
I'm having an issue with my monitor blacking out intermittently. Its a Samsung 204B atm and I'm not sure what's causing it. Hooked up another monitor and lead today to find it worked OK. Big sigh of relief its not the 8800gtx or psu at fault.
Have another 204B on the way. A dual screen set up for my 3D work was always the plan. So that'll give me another lead and monitor to swap in and out. Should help suss what's causing the screen drop outs.
I'm hoping I don't have to bugga around RMAing the monitor.
Was talking to Urlo, the M-cube software guy, today. He said he'll have time over xmas to upgrade Nav2. Amongst the mods is support for Everest. So we'll have all the everest readings as possible M-cube inputs. CPU, GPU, N/B, S/B, RAM etc will all be able to input as channel control.
Everest has the most accurate temps I know of.
dude...gorgeous build! :clap: Shabby news about the monitor though, hope you get it sorted ok! I like the sensor idea on the grill, might do something along those lines on my external rig.. maybe one for air temp and one for liquid temp? Keep it coming though.. :up:
I got one of those Alphacools too but that 7" tft looks freakin wicked :eek:
=WK=
Hey thanks mate.
Its nice to hear what folks think of it.
That TFT idea is really tempting. I'm researching it atm and will post what I find out.
Have a couple of things to slowly develop before its really finished but want to use it, so it'll probably never really be finished completely.
I have air and water temps in and out of the rads atm to find out exactly what's going on but its a bit too much for a long term set up. One of the good things about the M-cube is how easy switching sensors in and out is.
Monitor fixed!
Woot!!
Picked up a spare lead after sussing all possibilities,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Iplugtypes.jpg
Thought it might be a timing issue too, so I set a custom profile in the nvidia control panel.
Which ever it was, after 2 hours I'm seeing nothing but good picture.
Now comes a whole bunch of moving TVs, furniture and computers around to get the V-twin into my OPs area and this one I'm posting with out to my lady's desk.
She doesn't know yet that I've designs on her TV support table. Its square and exactly the right height and size to suit keeping the V-twin at a good accessible height.
So I have to make room for TV #2 somewhere. Move it there and then shift TV #1 to TV #2's support unit. Once thats done I can knock off the square table for myself, then drag her TV #1 and support back to its old position.
I'm wondering if I'll get away with it all without her clueing in on my cunning plan?
I'm counting on her being so happy with her new 19" monitor, that she doesn't notice mine has sprouted a second 20.1"
Still thinking about side panels.
I have spares and a windowed one like this-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ndow_t_LRG.jpg
Not sure if a full window, like this -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...W_t_02_LRG.jpg
might be better, or if I should use mesh or cut out a pattern. I'll try the ones I've got already out and post a pic or two.
Kind of attracted to a distinctive cut out but don't have a personalised motive or such to use. Might stick with what ever provides the best airflow.
We'll see.
the case already has too much holes in it for my liking...
i would like to have proper intake (front) and exhaust sides (top and back),
(just so i'd know that air is coming into and out off my case...)
maybe a closed sidepanel on the left rad side,
and half window on right mobo side?
It has two 120mm intaking in the front with the possibility of another in the unused drive bays, as well as two 120mm exhausting to the rear.
I have the V1000+ side gpu area adjustable exhaust 120 mm fans to use if wanted. Its kind of cooling overkill, but I could exhaust from the gpu zone through a side panel mesh with one. Theres an option to intake cold air into the back of the mobo with the other, too.
This thing is SO cooled!
I'm thinking like you though. Closed on the rad side and the smaller window on the mobo side.
Still I've got time to tinker and decide. Right now its such a grin maker to use. I'm almost tempted to pull out my old cougar hotas and pedals and take to the skies again with it, but I'm enjoying pushing bulk pixels around making my 3D models.
Its still flying with high density meshes that bring this box to its knees.
yep a little too airy for my taste, hehehe...
can't decide what to do with my xaser3 case. right now it waiting for some alum solid panels front and back, to be drilled/jigsawed with 2 120mm holes each...
it started with 7 80mm to 4 120mm, next reincarnation with new paint would be 6 120mm fans.
wow i like that !!!! nightcrawlerQuote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
hey jedda do you know where i can purchase matrix orbital displays in aus mate?
I think most guys buy them online from the states.
One of the OCAU guys MWP works, in Oz, for CrystalFontz as a programmer, and he's just about convinced me they're as good as Matrix Orbital. Both have fan control as well as temp and LCD.
You might get a nibble if you post in Wanted at OCAU. Could save some $.
good idea cheers mate
Oops, I was wrong. Dominion Electronics in Artarmon, about a block up from my first ever full time job (my last ever working for others too) sell them, apparently. Don't know how the prices compare or if they really hold stock, not just order from the states themselves, or what.
Hmmm, not happy Jan!
Seems my replacement sensor hub has a couple of non-working analogue sensor connections. :(
Playing around with them tonight, trying out the type of alphacool plug temp sensors Ranker thought didn't work with the M-cube controller. At first I thought he was correct but discovered they worked on another connection point and that no sensor worked on two of my sensor hub analogue connections.
I wonder if he had a dead connection or two as well?
So good news is these work with the M-cube
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tempsensor.jpg
Which is great because they go well with EK reservoirs.
but the bad news is I need yet another sensor hub.:mad:
Santa wants to fit 8 500GB drives in my box.
Mrs Claus has found a raid card and 8 matching seagates still under warranty for a very good price. So the elves are haggling as we speak.
I figure a spare X23A drive bay exspansion module I have will take 3 of them in the mobo side front bays.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...EX-23NA_01.jpg
Theres room for the rest in the cages.
Woot!
I could have more terra than an outback grazier.
Yeah... me too. I was looking forward to seeing motorcycle rebuild pics too.... :shrug: :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathar
the x23 expansion looks good, only downside is the use of smaller than 120mm fan. why not get x34 expansion, 2 of those could fit your 4TB HDs...
I have the EX-33A which matches the V series hole pattern and takes 120 mm fan. So I'll decide for sure when/if Santa comes through with card and drives.
Ho ho ho!
How I stealth the DVD drive eventually will factor in the choice, as that'd leave one other drive slot unused. I've been playing around swapping back and forth with the front bay fittings for ages, trying for the best. Got one of each module right at the start.
The small Lian Li plaques look 'tinny' up close and I want to not have that. Still have to see if the plate will come off without leaving marks behind.
Time for the big swap around.
Every bit of IT equipment in my little world has to be moved around as I switch the V-Twin into my ops area. lol Just the furniture moving involved is daunting enough without all the components too. There's so little spare room, I can only move one thing at a time. That then makes space to move another bit.
If I vanish off line for a while you'll know I've had probs.
If everything goes to plan, though, I hope to get a few pics up of the result.
Wish me luck.
Hey Jedda! I just went through the whole thread and OMG! I am impressed! Those 2 cases screwed together looks great! :D Well done! :)
GL d00d, sounds like your really going to need it. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
8hours should be plenty time to move around some furnitures... hehehe
Um Jedda... updates?
Is there a problem?
Well I've got a problem, I'm impatient and I need updates! NOW!!!!!
Please? :rofl: :ROTF:
Pretty please? :up:
Ugh, to much chocolate today... :shakes:
man i wish i could fit so many hd's in my case!!!
im very jeoulous
do you live in Aus JeddaQuote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
yes he does :)
yer thats good few more aussies rouns here
Maybe he's boxed himself into a corner and cannot escape. Should we send in a search party ? :D
Yep, with Cathar, Little River etc Oz has been in LC since day #1.
Took a bit of reconnecting but its up and going in dual screen glory!
I've been busy sussing out a dual wallpaper that looks OK in a pic. Surprising how difficult getting the lighting balance right is.
Saw 40°C on the cpu under load and that's the highest temp anywhere, so far. 33° on the 8800GTX and 34° MCP in everest. Ambient temp is 27° atm and the loops' water temps are 27.5°. So its a cool little V-Twin so far.
The EX-33A is too long with fan included for a V1000. It'd do well in a V2000 or V1200 but the longer gpu cards will conflict in a V1000. So if I do want to put any drives in the front bays it'll be without the fan included.
Am finding that 3M see through double sided tape very good for mounting the analogue and digital sensors leads. Its really strong and virtually invisible. I'm cutting 1/16" bits off the roll's end and that's perfect to fit under each lead. You just press it on where you want the lead held then press the lead down in position and its held in the alignment you chose.
Its much better than the M-cube tape. Better looking too.
Big prob is the monitor I've been using but gave to my lady along with the box, has gone blank on me.
Disconnected moved ten feet and reconnected and the %@#$^ thing wont work! Gawd, these monitors can be sensitive.
3m "tape of the gods" stuff really sticky...
the 8hours became 3 days more, for a moment there the search party idea sounded good...
Well, have you ever tried to explain to a woman how come her computer doesn't have a functioning monitor while your's has 2 shiny new ones, both running?Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Bloody lucky i made it back here at all! :rofl:
Yes, you are lucky! I would have immediately INSISTED one of your duals get hooked up to my rig ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Looking forward to pics of all the glory.
just 1? most likely jedda gave her both, and got himself a new 32" pair, hehehe...
hey jedda are overclocking this rig???
or no need??? it's not for gaming is it????
I'll probably play around a bit next week.
Switching out the B3 quad for a G0.
But its a graphics box mainly and all my time has gone into modeling as I enjoy the new found speed and screen real estate.
I'm pushing huge numbers of polys around under a NDA or I'd show off with a screeny or two.
Its just so good for the purpose and as I load my apps it keeps blowing me away how faster it runs each one than my old box.
Am thinking about a build around the B3 and a few spare bits I have to begin a home grown render farm. We'll see.
Really liked the look of your side panels and still have to finish mine off.
Bolting them together has left me with a couple of spares to play with. Also I have a side with the stock window I mounted mesh in replacing the perspex as an early look at mounting a MCR220. Could cut a lower window in that, like yours, and use either plexi or mesh.
Maybe an idea for a cut out will spark, for one of the spare panels. A V2 logo or something.
Seems a bit of a waste to not try o'clocking a bit with this board but stability was always my goal rather than chasing numbers. Am from the era where o'clocking was how you got the performance you needed, not an end in itself.
Can understand wanting to know what she'll do, though.
Am trying to find enough time to do a bit of a thing with pics on using the M-cube. Would like to do the same on making up custom wiring too. Its easier than many think to make up leads that fit in neatly and combine the various fittings. Sort of pass on the lessons I learnt from the build.
hey jedda.... have you got any updates??
did you get that second mofset block mate?