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Don't worry. As long as all your other components are still working fine, you're kinda lucky anyway. Seems to have been a monday board. No quality control will ever be able to guarantee 100% working products. Sometimes some parts pass all production tests and fail only shortly after. You can't predict things like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
Oh, and good luck boblemagnifique. Looks really nice.
Bloody red stairways to heaven. :D :up:
Jesus dude.. do you really need that many boards ;) ... 5 boards i case that you screw up few volt mods ??? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by boblemagnifique
that might be why but i would think he got 5 because he wants no fsb wall on the board. he has very high fsb chips and needs the board to be able to do the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
I have 2 cpus (E6700/E6600) at 591mhz Fsb on water (i hope 630/635 on my chiller) , i have do 642mhz on Dod with the E6700 :)
Wait & See :D
First Boot 570mhz , i test of stability with OCCT at 576x6 on water on the moment .... The Review soon (Saturday i think)
Quote:
Originally Posted by boblemagnifique
I will wait, good luck!;) I have good E6550 at the moment, which can do 582Mhz fsb on air. Can more CPU PLL voltage help to fsb on air?? I want say 1,7v/1,8v -> 2,2v?
On this afternoon @home, if UPS it's ok:D
But i haven't cpu with + 500 fsb.But ,i can test the ram on 700mhz and more.
Wait and see ;)
edit:
@home UPS :up:
I will run a Pi 1m with my 460 ES on 350 X12 and ram on 1:2 :) DFI VDDR :p
I hope that's possible with waterchill.:cool:
max SS
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=240136
Spi1m=10.907s
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/8...spi1mwrva4.png
By staxm
Spi32m=10m 46.641s
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1...pi32mwrqo3.png
By staxm
soon session with LN2 :)
:wave:
test week end
Nice mobo, i test on this evening with Q6600 B3 and Celeron 460 ES ( X2 ).
Wait and see.
How you figure?Quote:
Originally Posted by marcolecorse
Few Screens of my Review :
Test On waterchiller (+15/25° liquid)
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...n/594,7mhz.jpg
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...n/498,7mhz.jpg
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...ron/388mhz.jpg
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...on/3852mhz.JPG
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...on/579occt.JPG
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...9h48-VCore.png
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...Iron/600c4.JPG
http://www.ixtremtek.com/ixtek/Artic...ron/675mhz.JPG
More Pics and explanations : http://www.ixtremtek.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163
damn boblemagnifique i was looking at that last screenie and i must say that the ram speed and latency that you used is just sick.. :eek:
what brand of ram do you have ?? the cellchocks that is in your sig ??
No my kit is Crucial Pc8500 c5 Prétested for me :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
But The DFI P35 is very diffcile for the memory, I had much difficulty overclock up of 640mhz :cool:
To await next the bios :)
Can someone post picks of the whining (Squeal) area? I'm considering this board but I don't want another P965-S situation. My DFI Dark is so loud that it get's on my nerves.
And thanks for all the info so far........
I've had this board a few weeks and I haven't heard any squealing from it (maybe from me). I've had a few nagging issues that I can't seem to get past. I had a G0 Q6600 on it for a couple of weeks, but never could get past 3.5 ghz stable. I wasn't too happy with the chip, so I dropped a E6850 on it and now its doing some wierd stuff.
1. Smart Guardian never worked from day 1, but my mbm setup from my old Asus P5B MBM setup seemed to catch most of the voltages and temps when the Quad was in there. Since I dropped the E6850 in there everything isn't even close to right. Temps are at least 20F too low, volts aren't any better. I could live with Smart Guardian if I could get it running. MBM would be better. Which IT controller chip is in this thing anyway?
2. The E6850 is acting weird. The chip wil getting into XP 1.375 on the vcore. Within a couple of minutes of starting-up Orthos, the system reboots. No errors in Orthos, just reboots. I can jack the voltage on the core as high as 1.45 and it doesn't make any difference. Its not the ram; voltage on it makes no difference. neither does bus speed. This system has been rock stable until this new chip was dropped in. If it can handle a Quad at 3.5 ghz, it should be able to handle a dual core at 3.7 -3.8. The no errors in Orthos and the auto-reboots under load have me puzzled.
sounds like it's time for a fresh install.
Not so sure about that. I went from a dual to a quad on the same windows install and the change was seamless. I can't imagine it would be any different the other way around but i could be wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by HousERaT
True, I didn't do a fresh windows install when I switched processors. That still doesn't explain, why the Smart Guardian has never worked. Has anybody else got theirs working right on this board?Quote:
Originally Posted by HousERaT
I took it to 500 x 7 for 3.5 ghz at a lower voltage, so its not a FSB issue. I did get Smart Guardian running by doing a complete uninstall of the software and a reinstall. It must of got forked the first time I loaded it.
It still have the no error in Othos and shutdown issue, I talked about above. Does anybody have any suggestions?
I got a little problem with my board !
Its 100% Prime stabel but after i have turn it 30minutes off it wont boot anymore until i must do a cmos reset !!!
Does someone have the same probleme ?!?!
Sorry for my bad english :brick:
What are you considering P-95 stable? If you are having to reset CMOS in order to boot at your desired overclock, sounds more like your settings are not stable.Quote:
Its 100% Prime stabel but after i have turn it 30minutes off it wont boot anymore until i must do a cmos reset !!!
To consider an overclock P-95 stable, run P-95 on all cores, at a priority of at least 5, for 8-12 hours with no errors.
are these available to buy yet? or are all these preview boards?
edit; noticed newegg has them, but since im from the uk any idea's where ican get one from? [/edit]
No, nobody in the UK has/has had either of the 2 DFI P35 boards in stock.
gah, i hate living here for tech :(
Well, often abit's new mobos are out in Europe before the US so I guess it just comes down to each companies local branch but DFI look as if they may be losing it here.
I've got my Blood Iron to settle in at 3800 (475x8) using my E6850. The board is impressive; the chip is so-so considering I'm on water. I still don't have a good monitoring program for temps and voltage. I thought I had Smart Guardian working, but it doesn't update itself. A little help in that department would be nice, if someone has a good working solution.
Now i found why my system wont boot sometimes:
My Soundcard (X-Fi) has a IRQ problem !!! :fight: How should i know this !!!
I took the soundcard out and now it works great !!! :up:
looks like im going to get one of these from germany... to go with the extra 2gb of ram that i ordered from crucial that i ordered today.. :D
thanks to tommy hewitt for the link to the board :D
has anyone replaced the northbridge heatsink? bit silly having the sticker on it since no other DFI boards do.
Both DFI boards are in stock at Ebuyer
£190 for the LP, £90 for the BI
Are you getting one Kenny?Quote:
Originally Posted by K404
regards
Raja
zomg, thanks for letting us know about that... i almost ordered one from germany !!
Hows the temps doing for the chipset??
Im getting an odd, 50-55 degrees idle..
ive got 42 idle with 1,38NBvcore. By smartquardian. Its propably more in reality though.
But its propably a tad hotter out there in thailand than here in finland. :)
I turn the AC on 24/7 @ 23 degrees dude! And i's got a Lian Li PC-G7 case..
Is there any other way of cooling the chipset??
My nb runs around 40C @ 1.4v
running only 230 fsb tho
I ordered a Swiftech waterblock for the nb when i run into temp problems
running at 279 fsb now, nb still 40C under dual prime.
I stuck an old cpu heatsink fan to the bottom of the nb heatsink, blowing air up towards cpu.
I also have air conditioner set @ 22-23 C
Its a good board, but Ill keep my 965 Dark.
I know color doesnt matter, but id like to see dfi keep the "Dark series"
Well I finally purchased the Blood Iron for $120. There was a point that I wanted to buy the new Asus x38 but after careful consideration I decided to go the cheaper route. Basically I'm still using DDR2 with an e6600 so the blood is the better value considering the x38's are currently DDR2 models. Sure Gigabyte has an x38 with DDR3 1600 support, but I'm staying away from GB since my 965p-DQ6 (rev 1.0) still suffers from the cold boot issue. Also I really don't want to dish out for DDR3 yet... Though I'm a little nervous about the Blood Iron 4 phase PWM, it looks like it should do fine with dual cores from what you've all posted here. I'm going to put some RAM heatsinks on the PWM's just in case. Along with a better NB and SB cooler. Thanks for the great info on the Blood Iron guys! This should keep me busy until the Wolfdale comes around.
I've already said it numerous times: The number of phases doesn't necessarily matter. And it won't change for this special board. As long as the design is good and the parts used are also up to the task, there is absolutely no reason not to buy a board with "only" 4 phase PWM. The higher phase numbers only mean that it takes some strain off each single phase, because the power gets delivered "phase shifted". That means, the first phase delievers the first 1/n of an n-phase system and the second phase does the second 1/n'th part and so on, upto the n'th 1/n for the last phase. That means the idle time for each phase increases (as long as the switching frequency stays the same) and the current, that each phase needs to deliever, decreases.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinas
But, you can simply use higher rated mosfets and overall better parts and still create for example a 4-phase system that will outperform a 12-phase system. It depends on many variables. For example the 4-phase system could be rated for a max. current of 250A, while the 12-phase systems max. could be 200A. Just for example.
To make a long story short: More phases != generally better system :up:
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned that my current board (GB 956-DQ6) has 12 phases -- that and the reviewer mentioned 4 PWM's being a potential problem for quads. I'm in total agreement with you though Celemine, since a more efficient design IMO would use stronger mosfets, etc. and equal the performance of more phases. We'll see.
My board arrived today and I'm waiting on my swiftech RAM sinks so I can mount them on and around the PWMs. I just noticed all solid caps around the CPU socket. I didn't notice that right away in the pictures here. Nice addition to a kind-of bargain board.
Thanks for the input!
Better late than never- I should have a Blood iron in my hands tomorrow (Thursday)
first challenge: What Clockgen settings to use! :p
bobs results are encouraging- I want 555FSB++++ :)
The guy whos board died over 4 days is the yin to that yang though :p:
BIOS 2007/09/13 adds a fair amount to the options, but I still cant get over 564MHz ishhh on the RAM.
600MHz (or above) wont play at all- I have no idea where im going wrong?!
I've been running my system with this DFI board and a Q6600 G0 for a few days. Still looking for the optimal settings for 24/7 use, but I've already noticed that the NB tends to get uncomfortably hot. How's the NB on your boards? Now running the FSB a bit over 400@1.37V and the NB temp is close to 70C while running Orthos.
yea, my NB is a fair temp as well. I have a fan over it just to be sure :)
How is your RAM clocking- mine aint great on this board :(
how is this board doing these days? I just ordered one to replace a dead P5K Premium.
I've just put mine up for sale. its not shabby for 3DMark, but mine wont clock RAM well at all. Seems capped at 560MHz ishhhh I have no idea what (if anything) im doing wrong
Just have to comment on it here as well... My Blood Iron lasted only for three days with an overclocked Q6600. The 4-phase power supply circuit literally blew away... ;)
try living where i'm at...:( but it's weird that if you take a look at the SB chip, it's made here!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Origin_Unknown
hi guys
got mine dfi Blood iron T2RL today
first boot with Q6600
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1...mmmmmmmlx4.jpg
with my previous mobo (DFI dark 965) wont boot + 3650mhz
:up:
Is PC Wizard 2008 reliable for measuring Vcore? I put +300mV through the BIOS, so that should be about 1.55, right? Idle PC Wiz is showing 1.424 - load flickers to 1.568 before the load crashes. Namely, Orthos made all of 2 seconds, OCCT made about 16 seconds.
so far this board is really pissing me off. It was fine at stock speeds but once i dialed in my OC from my old Asus board it started throwing fits. The biggest problem is with my sound. As soon as it gets to Windows my X-FI start SCREECHING with static. I tried moving it to a different PCI slot, still no good. Checked the IRQ and it has its own! WTF. This board is also horrible so far with clocking ram. What was rock solid 4-4-4-5 at 945Mhz is now not even bootable to windows with this board. Unless its on Auto it will constantly reboot. Can anyone please help me with this damn thing?
now im randomly getting ati driver stopping and recovering. Is this board screwed up or what?
i seemed to have stumbled my way to fixing the sound. Cleared the CMOS, reinstalled the drivers, and for 2 boots in a row now its ok. I still need help with the memory clocking though. It just refuses to use my usual timings...
Update: Funny story. It refuses to boot at DDR 945 4-4-4-12 but it will gladly get into windows and run Orthos at DDR2 1122 5-5-5-18 (auto settings)? All i can do is shrug and laugh i guess. This board baffles me...
I second the motion mate! :up: Just love the performance and looks of the dark series. :D Maybe they should make an Infinity Dark X38?Quote:
Originally Posted by wangerin
Its just too bad the BI is not really a full ATX board. :(
I share the feeling bro. :D We get the latest tech when almost everyone has it already. Plus the overpriced parts here, coz of shipping, supply and tax considerations... :D How does a $175 BI sound?Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
A lot of chips are manufactured here but are mainly for the export market, that is why semiconductors is one of our country's top exports. :D
im about to send this :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: back. Did a CMOS reset due to a bad memory setting and BOOM, the sound problem is back magically although no bios settings are any different.
I'd RMA it but you've got quite a trial by fire learning this board and getting High Ram Bandwidth in essence its a 3 lock pandora's box when trying to get all of the settings right:yepp:
i cant get around this sound problem let alone the memory. RMA time. BOOOOOO
I had a few problems with my X-Fi and this board also but i made Clear Cmos - Flashed with new beta bios - Clear Cmos and now it works great :up:
it had more problems then i was willing to mess with. Its on its way back to Newegg as i type...
Hi all,
I was reading NB cooler is to small and there is problem with temp. is that true?
It's possible running this board without any external fan over NB ?
Regards,
Ezrael.
Looks like a nice board. But, am I blind or didn´t anyone mention can this board change the command rate?
And, does it make sense to change this gigabyte p35-ds3r to dfi blood iron? (the drawbacks of this board are: huge vdrop (I´ll mod this soon, just wait ^^) and this mobo cannot change command rate (damn gigabyte..)
Anyhow, on these C2D boards and mobos, how big factor is the command rate anyway?
Thanks
Is Thermalright HR-05 SLI compatible with this mobo?
How does this board perform with the Crucial Ballistix RAM?
I am guessing it will perform very well with the Ballistix. At least I hope so because I have one coming tomorrow.
Just picked up this board, smooth overclocking and very stable so far... except the vdroop is rather high according to SmartGuardian... almost 0.05v droop.
Can anyone help me to locate the vcore measuring point? And are there any known mods for this board?
I've got an HR-05 SLI on the SB right now. I used to have either the SLI or the regular HR-05 on the NB as well but I can't remember which.Quote:
Originally Posted by garson
OK, thanks, but I'm interested in HR-05 SLI on NB, and Tuniq Tower 120 on CPU.:) I guess SLI can be installed on NB but I don't know if Tuniq and SLI would conflict.:shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by DeW itt right
Too bad this seems like a slow thread as this board is very nice :yepp:
Here are some quick results. I have a 550FSB CPUz validation somewhere here.
I'll be picking this board up soon, so I've started a vDroop thread in the vMods section. I'm happy to be the guinea pig.
Just got my Wolfdale in yesterday and it's already playing very nicely with the blood iron board. Just like the pre-release reviews: 4GHz without breaking a sweat...
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4...mallgq6.th.jpg
Great. I have same mobo and I'm waiting for 8400.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by DeW itt right
What CPU voltage did you set in BIOS?
I'm not exactly positive on the numbers but this is about how it went at these speeds...Quote:
Originally Posted by garson
+100mV - BSOD at boot up
+150mV - failed immediatly during Prime
+200mV - failed after 9 minutes of Prime
+225mV - Ran 7.5 hours of prime without failing!
Hi, a mate is thinking of getting this board along with 2x2gb g.skill PC2-8000, this will have no prob running the 1000mhz ram just changing a divider?
Thanks
The board is awesome, I'm sure (no guarentee) it will do it fine.
Damn it.
Had my heart set on this board but it just disappeared from Ebuyer.com.
Any other suppliers of this in the UK?
w00t! I just bought this motherboard! It was either this or the gigabyte p35 DS3R rev. 2.1 (budget constraints lol)
I'll test this later when I get home! :D
Please tell me I chose wisely hahaha
those are both great mobo's but i think you will like the blood iron
woah bad news :( the board just boots then dies down, then it powers on and goes off again and it just repeats over and over...
off to rma :(
Board is OK, BIOS is problem.;) You have to update BIOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrolock
:( how can i update? I only got the e8400, do i need to borrow older c2d? thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by garson
Yes, you need older CPU to update.There is thread on DFI forum about this problem, same symptoms (power on, then off repeatedly).Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrolock
k thanks man!Quote:
Originally Posted by garson
yep garson is correct...
hi, sorry to resurrect a 5 months old thread.
I recently bought this mobo to match with my e8400. I have to admit, I'm fairly new to DFI and the vcore setting is a bit confusing for me. For this mobo, the way to set the vcore is by VID + xxmv. Problem is for me, the VID as reported by realtemp is inconsistent. Most of the time, the VID for my processor (or what my mobo reads it to be) is 1.2125v, but sometimes the reported VID is 1.16v.
Since the only way to set the vcore is by adding x mv to VID, I can't seem to get the same vcore everytime as the VID keeps changing from this two values. Case in point, I need roughly about 1.28v to get 3.6 ghz stable (400x9). So, i'll set VID + 75mv in bios. But once the VID changes to 1.16v (which happens quite often), the effective vcore changes to about 1.235v, which make my OC unstable. I've updated my bios to the latest stable build as at march 08.
My last build was e6300 + 965 ds3 where I can set the absolute vcore value i.e. 1.28v which seems a bit more straightforward. But for this mobo, it just doesnt seem so -- unless i'm missing something.
Could this be that my CPU is crap where it doesn't have a fixed VID or the mobo could't read the VID reliably?
Hey man!
I'm totally with you on this!
The voltage goes rampart on it's own indeed!
I have e8200 which defaults on auto on 1.2V. Though the board most of the time detects the starting voltage of 0.99V and sometimes even on 0.89V (it does work on default clock with this voltage though lol - under prime stressing my coretemp shows 37° under CM Hyper 212 :D). If is set the increment of voltage to +0.3V it sometimes sets it at 1.2V but sometimes when it detects the correct start value it equates 1.5V! Makes me crazy and wanna beat my head against wall!
There was no issue when i had my old e6750 on it. I've installed the latest bios (11/03/08) with no luck.. :(
DAMN YOU BI!!!
EDIT:
Actualy i've found out that when you set the AHCI ROM (in integrated peripherals) to enabled, the reference voltage always is retrieved correctly. You have to have AHCI drivers installed on OS though - otherwise it will BSOD at booting windows. Hope this helps..
So setting AHCI ROM solves your inconsistent VID? I'm not really familiar with AHCI, googling about this brings results of ppl moaning of crashing windows for not having installed ahci during the beginning. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by trez0r
I know it sounds quite absurd, but enabling ahci bios indeed seems to have solved the problem. Don't know how much truth is in this we'll see if i still say the same after a few days.
So far so good.
AHCI (or RAID) + AHCI bios rom enabled seems to have solved my incosistent voltage settings on my E8200.
I'm sorry to revive this old thread, but I just shot this mobo @ ebay & i would appreciate to know, which bios is gonna be the best for my e2180 & my G.Skill...my sys is the following one: *take a look around*
I have to admit, I'm fairly new to the current DFI-mobos....i had a infinity nf4 ulra-u with an amd x2 3800+, i think 3 years ago...;)
Thanks for everybody's help!