:up: on that bracket.
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:up: on that bracket.
Those are DDC3.2 pumps (18w) with PetrasTech DCCT-01s tops.Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterChiefElmo
Pump dimensions will earlier on in the thread, there is a sketchup picture of the bracket drew out with dimensions.
You mean diagonally between the two holes? Two point five two inches.Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
If you mean square on the X - Y axis, std ortho projection a'la normal drafting custom, the dimensions are clearly shown on page one, post fifteen.
On my bracket, The mounting hole distances for the pumps is 3.2" diagonally.
Mekrel,
Got a coupla' questions, hope u can help me out...
1) Could u measure the space preferably in mm as indicated by the arrows (pic1)
2) The EkREs, possible to use only 1 and add an EKREs Bottom to feed 2 pumps, any downsides...wc noob here.
TIA :up:
Sorry mate. I didn't mean to be a :banana::banana::banana::banana:.Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
@Cascades,
Yes, you're right. I just pulled the dimension off Laing's drawing and it's quite misleading.
That distance is about 12" or 35mm.
:)
Love the attention to detail on this project. Its gonna take a forklift to move or 3 sherpa's and an engine hoist :rofl:
I especially like that this isn't a solid black euro'd out case project. Black and Chrome.... reminds me of a musclecar. I'm wondering if your going to carry this attitude with the exterior of the case :shrug:
Looking good m8 going to keep a eye on this build :)
Thk You Sir :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
Now cud someone answer the other question Thx
Have a bottom screwed into both ends and a T-line off one of them?Quote:
Originally Posted by cablesguy
It'd be a bugger to bleed. They have a strong vortex at the best of times.
Thx for the reply Jedda, yup was thinking of using these 2 in case theres a need for another pump (no WC stuff yet, just planning ahead to save some $$, current plans r 1 pump+rad)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
N sorry dont mean to hijack ur thread Mekrel
Ok the pump mounting holes are spades off the top and bottom ends
----||
||----
The diagonal cross between them (using the small rubber grommets that come with the Swiftech versions) is 3.25" or about 82.5mm. That's by eye, and isn't the easiest thing to give a visual description of because it's not a diagonal that cuts across the square cross section of the pump itself.
Might try Swiftech for a drawing.
Sorry, I avoided the question hoping someone would have a better answer, maybe with a cad drawing or something.
:(
where do those blue wires that are hooked up to the pumps go to ,
to the mb fan connector (monitoring rpm), so u can trigger shutdown in cass of pump faliure..Quote:
Originally Posted by leoftw
They are rpm monitoring fan plugins.
The drawings give the inner, blind, mounting holes dimension, that I quoted, not the outer spade mount points. As everyone said, putting a ruler on the pump itself gives 3.2-3.25".
They're a sweet look on that bracket.
I figure, we're just talking amongst ourselves while waiting to see how Mekrel has tackled the psu and case top obstacles.
Has the UK mail gone back to normal?
My motherboard only has 5 pin fan connectors :(
Very nice work so far :up:
You've given me more ideas to work with. I decided to 'steal' your template for cutting the top panel for a PA120.2 - hope you don't mind :p:
Following your progress with interest.
I would like to know, how big the hole without the Panel is. Anybody an idea?
Just measured mine, and it's 348mm x 200mm
Thanks a lot! :D
nice job man.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
IIRC... the internals of the ETASIS and the silverstone are the same... Unfortunalty my ETASIS psu whines randomly. Sometimes under load and sometimes not. I've learn't to live with it as i couldn't be bothered with sending it back when i got it :D
Oh? Where about's? I'm from the south of Birmingham ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
I'm from Bromsgrove :)
I have a 700w M12 now, I managed to break the 750w OP (the RMA return). After sleeving it myself, it turns on for a second and then turns off :confused: woops.
The sleeving was ace though :p:
as long as the sleeving was ok then the psu being broken is ok too ;) lol.
I've got a couple of work mates that are from Bromsgrove.
I'd look for a pin not fully home in it's plug slot or loose and sliding back when plugged in.
Any news? :)
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/tom/pumpholder.jpg
He has a new pump mount he hasnt even seen yet :)
welshtom, you got a pm about a similar idea :D
I am about to order that case in about 10 days. I need a way to mount the rad in the case under the top, but I donīt want to mount it in the top. The top should stay removeable without the rad. :confused:
I thought of something like the pump mount for the rad. But I need a way to fix the rad mount in the case under the top. :shrug:
Grml! It is not that easy. But there has got to be a way! :shakes:
Thanks Tom, looks ace.
The holes will have 6.2mm grommets that take the hole down to 4mm for M4 screws.
Two opposite holes for grommets that will stabilise the pump. Big holes for a fan behind to blow fresh air :)
updates
That's exactly my idea as well with my 3 1/2" pump mount but forgot about rubber grommets to remove vibrations. I already asked Tom for some preliminary design of mine as well... Your idea will provide the base dimensions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
Yep! That was just what I thought, but my question to a 343b owner is: how or where could I mount this in the case-construct?Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
In the middle of the case is a vertical panel... you could construct a vertical bracket that would attach to those rails and the vertical panel to add support.
You mean 4 strong brackets attached to the Mainboard-tray in the middle? (2 on every side, wich are supporting each rail in both directions)
That was also my thought. But this also has got to be fixed at the strong rails of the case construct where the side panels are mounted. Maybe I could make some threads into it.
Cheap but it explains, what I want to tell you I guess:
http://www.lifepatcher.com/pc/radmount.JPG
My question is: Is it possible to mount it like on the picture? Is it no problem according the mounting holes of the side panels or the top panel?
SEEEEXXXXXXXXYYYYYYYYYY
i wanna do that too! the mobo and EK that is
I think your design will work fine. However, I wouldn't go through all the trouble just so you can take the top off. In my 343B, I made sure the tubing to the upper radiator was long enough so I can lift the top up and move it to one side to gain access to the reservoirs. Adding a 'service loop', if you will. The case is big enough that you can easily get to all of the components from the side openings of the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by peebee
Cheers!
I got a fever, and the prescription is more cow bell....
POV 8800GTX Card Prep
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/GTX/06122007107.jpg
After the pictures of the ApogeeGTX aluminium tops and Swiftech's "It won't corrode, scouts honour but it's your fault if you don't use a corrosion inhibator" bull crap. I decided to go with the MCW60, ram sinks and MC21's. Oh, also the fact that this is my "ultimate case" which means I want to keep it as it is after and just upgrade the insides to ease of changing hardware must be easy which means no full cover.
Clean A2 Core :( with a bit of MX-2 on the edge
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/GTX/06122007108.jpg
Using the BP Nectar card that fuel stations always give to and I always forget to register spread method. Should actually register one some day, I do 30K + miles :shrug:
Well at least the card is giving me nicely spread TIM when not saving me money
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/GTX/06122007109.jpg
Nice and thin, can still read GPU details - maybe I should have put a blob over the A2 bit, you know - ignorance is bliss right?
Love the look of Enzotech around the MCW60
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/GTX/06122007115.jpg
MC21's stuck really well, the rubbing alcohol really cleaned the mosfet chips enough for them to stick.
I'm just in the process of doing the exact same thing :D
I also have the A2 core. Does this not perform as well as the A3? (is A3 the latest?).
I notice you have Hynix memory chips. Mine has Samsung. Do you know if there is a big difference between the two?
Also, did you use an adhesive to secure the ramsink onto that bare core at the back of the card (not sure what it's called)? I bought some Arctic Silver thermal adhesive to use there.
I bought the cheapest 8800GTX I could find. It will have the MCW60 on it and run on a dedicated PA120.2 using a DDC3.2 pump with Petra's top. Hopefully should overclock well.
Well, keep up the good work :up:
A3 core is the latest revision spin of the G80 core which was put onto the Ultra cards and onto the latest GTX's, they tend to over clock to Ultra speeds with relative ease.
Samsung chips also seem to be better, they're binned at 1Ghz GDDR3 1ns @ 2.0Vdimm, the Hynix are rated the same but take 2.2vdimm.
I used the thermal tape that came on the Enzotech ram sinks, it's the nvio chip by the way :)
Thx for the info.
I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed and hope it overclocks well.
I've just decided this week to also go with black internals on my case. Won't be a professional powder coat job like yours, but hopefully it should be ok. I should have it back by Thursday and then I can mount everything.
How close are you to completing your build?
Very close,Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
So far completed, but yet to be added to the log are:
- Perferated Lian Li Bezels for radiator
- Powdercoated EX-33B
- Fans on each radiator joined, and so have the back 3 fans
- Change in motherboard and block
- Modified Sunbeam Rheobus
New pump bracket on it's way to me next week too and also a Nikon D40 :)
woohoo updates :)
its bin awhile
looking forward to more !
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/Wires...1122007101.jpg
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/Wires...1122007102.jpg
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/Wires...1122007103.jpg
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/Wires...1122007105.jpg
Fan sleeving done, should see the length of the wire to the back fans. I'll picture that when I get the Nikon D40 :)
Also replaced the radiator grill with a Brushed Aluminium Chilled PC Thermochill radiator grill that's anodized black, looks spectacular.
nice job, cant wait to see this done
For that second rad with the fans reversed, consider getting some of this stuff -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Liquidtape.png
Its great for covering the spoke wires.
Check out this before and after comparison -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...iquidtape2.png
You're going to love the D40!
Wow, this is really cool. I can't wait to see the end results :)
This is pretty much a dream setup, keep up the good work!
Mekrel,
Did you trim those Enzotech ram sinks under your MCW60 barbs or do they sell shorter heatsinks for this purpose? Any reason why you chose shorter heatsinks on the hot ramdac chip ? I'm tired of snipping off the heatsinks so that the barbs can clear. Thanks.
Enzotech has two heatsink products for graphic cards. The standard size is a BMR-C1 and the shorter is the BCC9.
As said above, they sell two versions. I put a shorter one on the nvio because you get 8 per pack, so the taller ones went on the 4 chips each side of the core.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
My D40 came today :D
I didn't know they sell a shorter version ! Thanks for alerting me. No more heatsink snipping for me!
hey can you do the sunbeam rheobus mod in detail, did you do the led mod or so you can knock the fans down to 7v ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
Some quick auto focus point and snap photos from the D40, wanting to learn the manual side of photography before I do some nice shots. Dark cases are hard to photo and this isn't wiped down / dusted.
Included are the front shot with the perforated bezels, EX-33B powder coated, new brushed Alu (anodised black) ChilledPC Thermochill radiator grill, board and blocks.
Also 120.1 radiator grills on the back as fan guards.
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0001.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0002.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0003.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0004.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0005.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0006.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0007.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0008.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_0009.JPG
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/AllInOne/DSC_00010.JPG
That really does look awesome. If my paint job is half as good as that I'll be happy. I'll find out tomorrow.
The motherboard compliments the overall colour scheme nicely. That's one concern I have with my build - I've got a Gigabyte x38 motherboard (blue PCB). What tubing/dye(s) are you planning on using?
Well, I don't know about you but my target is to complete my build before 25th :up:
looks great!
Class job man
Sleeving really puts it over the top. Excellent job!
Take some pictures of yours with the paint job, will be nice to see. One concern of mine with paint is how often you remove the top, thankfully the powder coat is super durable, it's surprised me how well it hasn't scratched with how often I've removed the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
Completion date, I have no idea - I only need the face plate to the fan controller, new pump bracket which is done just needs to be delivered and that's it.
Coolant, I'm going to use some distilled water that ChilledPC is getting in some dye that isn't over the top and quite translucent with some aquarium anti-algae. Think I'm going for a blue, although might go green with some black primochill anti-kink coils so it matches the black of the case and the green DFI LP P35 T2R.
I bought some zip-tie holders the other day and now the fan wires are nicely tucked away on the frame.
Great build here with a lovely attention to detail. I'm trying to aim myself with the same attention as you in my own project (link to sig). I'm almost done as well, remain some little things like sleeving the fan wires (waiting for sleeving to get delivered from PPCs), receive the pump mount, side and top grills from Tom of ChilledPC (got some issues with the dimensions so we'll see during the holidays) and some finishing touch...
I agree sleeving put it in the top :)
I've posted some pics of the case in my thread. For some reason I forgot to take any pics before mounting everything. During assembly, I did have to remove the top several times, and so far the paint is holding up. Saying that, it certainly isn't as durable as powder coating or anodising. Something I would certainly consider for any future builds. I just didn't plan this one very well. As you probably know, this is my 1st mod and it's been a huge learning experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
Well I decided to not be lazy and mod the Sunbeam Rheobus onto a Lian Li 5.25" drive bay bezel.
Just had to bend each side of the Sunbeam face plate until they snapped off, then took a pair of pliers to the top and bottom folds so that they face would over a Lian Li bezel.
Masking tape on bezel and then drew around the holes, drilled them and filed them to neaten up. I'll be buying some blue/white bi-polar leds later (can't get any in the UK it seems which is typical) and also some 10K Ohm resistors 1/4w to dampen them as we all know they're bright.
Outcome:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/FanRheobus/faceplate.jpg
Mekrel - I'd love to see the detail on how you mod the Sunbeam Rheobus to make the LEDs less bright. (Put that camera to work :) )
Have a look here Shazza:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1141/ :)
You're attention to detail is astonishing. I wish I'd thought of modding the bezel... then again, I'm glad I didn't (my build would never have been completed :p:).
I don't' know how many fans you're intending to attach to the fan controller, but I've got 6 on 1 channel and the heatsink for that channel does get rather hot - to the point that I'm considering moving the controller to the top slot. It's currently just below my DVD drive, and I'm not sure it's a good idea to having a heater underneath :eek:
Thanks! Just another one of those things I didn't even know I could/should google.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
250mm you mean:p: :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
When connecting all these fans to 1 channel, you you do yellow to yellow, red to red and black to black? im sure I was told only need to do 2, but dont know which 2?
You only want one signal wire.
Cheers, you just posted how in my thread. cheers
Well today my new pump bracket came, props to Tom @ ChilledPC - it's perfect.
Pump bracket on it's own.
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008031.jpg
Back shot showing the grommets for anti vibration purposes, with M4 screws going through:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008033.jpg
Holes at the back for air flow:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008034.jpg
Front shot showing rubber washer for anti vibration and dome nut on the end of M4 bolt:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008035.jpg
Print of 1:1 Autocad drawing:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008036.jpg
Bit o' double sided sticky tape where pump holder will stand, then stuck to the black neoprene underneath:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008037.jpg
Craft knife and scissors (for corners) later:
http://www.meknet.co.uk/PC343B/PumpH...4012008038.jpg
Tomorrow, time to plumb up :up:
P.S Tom, I love you.
Slick work man, and it must be nice to have such a good and helpful shop close to you.
Nice work on the pump mount :up:
I cannot wait for my own mount to come here from Tom from my own design (Mekrel, you saw a sketch a while ago). They are all cut and remain to be bent before shipping to me.
Pump mount looks flawless man. Just noticed, you sleeved the pumps a lot better than I did. Care to share any sleeving tips?
I just make sure I cut the right length off, melt the ends a tad so they don't fray. Cut about an inch of heat shrink off and place 2/3rds of it over the braid and a 1/3rd over the wire coming out of the braid.
Wrap wire and braid in some kitchen foil to stop them getting burnt and then blast the heat shrink with a heat gun I've got.
About to start tubing now :)
Why no stars?!??!!
Looking great Mekrel. :D
ps i love Tom too. :P
How much did it set you back to get that pump bracket lasered? I have no idea how much it costs to get things lasered or water jet cut.
Amazing custom project, subscribed ;)
btw those pump brackets are great :shocked: i want one of those :D
Think Tom charged me something like Ģ10 for it, which includes the laser cutting of it and Powder coating :)Quote:
Originally Posted by silverphoenix
The cost depends on what need to be done. If you provide your own DWG file, it cost less (Mekrel have done that himself I think). If you provide just a drawing or indications with no DWG file, the cost will be more.
My own lasercut parts cost me about the same ballpark as Mekrel and I created the DWG files myself (had a old ACAD 14 academic license I kept in case).
1st: subsribed
2nd will you merry me?
That isn't too bad, I may look into laser/waterjet cutting here for my sidepanel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
10 Bucks is just like a gift! A simple window made by waterjet or lasercut is not available for less than 50 in germany. I cut the window by myself now with dremel & co. Selfmade costs lot of work, but it makes you proud. ;)
I am nearly finished with my LL-Cube. Just have to add some LEDs and sleeving. :D
Hey mekrel! Now hurry up, or I am faster than you :p:
I canīt wait to see more pics now.
I did a really cool brushed steel backsplash for our kitchen and a local company charged me $130 to waterjet the square cutouts for the outlets and the actual pieces to size.
I can't imagine 1 square cutout costing more than $50-75
Be careful, cutting a flat panel in shape and cutting a side door is not the same thing. The first doesn't need to be zeroed before starting while the latter need to be zeroed or it will cut in the wrong place.
30-50£ would be what you should expect + shipping to and back from. My cuts was also done on a flat sheet, not a side window ;)
that's about $70-$110. Hmm I need 3 holes cut square with radiused corners. If it was your usual thin side panel I would but its the V2000 anodized alu so lol. I'm gonna try to get some quotes from local places.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
If you are in the UK, send a PM to welshtom about this. If you are in the US or Australia, it's more cost effective to find your local shop since shipping the side panel would be cost prohibitive.Quote:
Originally Posted by silverphoenix
In my case, I didn't have to ship anything beside the DWGH file and that's why I was able to pull it cheaper (along with doing the design myself).
That's also why it's harder to compare prices about laser or wet cutting.
well I can do a DWGH file myself, should be too bad. I'm rusty with autocad, Just need simple cutouts and mebe some lettering at most if it's not too much more. I found a place that does both water and laser asked for a quote.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
I mean DWG (damn fat fingers :p)...
Hi is the top of the case riveted or screwed on? How did u get the top off? Thanks.
Top of the case is just screwed on! ;)
Merkrel in your opinion what is the best radiator for around $140 USD?
Thermochill PA120.3Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterChiefElmo
Thanks man ill look into buying them... trying to get all my parts up...Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
I don't think there is any rad costs more than $140 USD, except for the HW Labs BIX 480Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterChiefElmo