So what would i have to do to make my processor a 400 fsb
Printable View
So what would i have to do to make my processor a 400 fsb
I tried to paint the L12 of a 1700+ as a 200Mhz the time bios1.1 was out, and the comp won't even boot (it is supposed to 1st boot at 100*11) and the chip could also boot 2200Mhz on default V :(
I don't know if latest bioses have different policies , i should try this then next time i 'll have time to flash my bios
I was actually going to mod my multiplier to a 10 and fsb to 200 so i can run at 2ghz 400 fsb always in any board
Chile it's already grounded. That's my point. AH30 needs to be set high.Quote:
Originally posted by chile
it's not telling you to connect 'em, it shows you where they are...notice the Vss/Gnd pins next to them....you're supposed to put the wire in AH30 and the Gnd.
Thnx
:p:
Has anyone successfully modded there cpu to a 400fsb
Tried this some time before...Quote:
Originally posted by Shroomalistic
Has anyone successfully modded there cpu to a 400fsb
And no diff to 166MHz at my 1700+ though ;)
And now I got my 2500+ and cannot get 220MHz dual stable. Thought there was no need to mod 166MHz cpu on nf2 400 ultra :confused:
One prob follows the other :mad: Should i collaborate to intel??? :D
sorry, my bad...i was thinking of something else i saw but it didn't fit here....btw xfrigid, when i tried the 1700+, it did boot 11X100 but when i went to save, then exit still no go at 166....maybe it's just the a7n8x-x....but i don't see why....Quote:
Originally posted by G H Z
Chile it's already grounded. That's my point. AH30 needs to be set high.
Thnx
:p:
Not a guru :), but no, I don't think that can be done without cutting the bridge. At least I've never heard of a method.Quote:
Originally posted by G H Z
Can anyone post a socket diagram that shows exactly where to jumper wire a 166 Barton into a 133 default fsb chip. I think setting AH30 to high will achieve this, but if it's set low now(grounded), then can a socket jumper even do this?
I don't want to blow a the L12 bridge if I can avoid it.
:p:
Hi all, my first post here :thumbsup:
BTW, :welcome: :toast: :D
Look at our FSB_Sense circuit diagrams someone posted above. Then note that if you connect Vcore directly to the socket pin (SP) on the "LO" circuit, you short circuit the 10K pullup resistor and change the LO to a HI. This can be done with a fine wire u-loop/jumper between sockets AH30 and nearby Vcc = Vcore socket AK30...verify in socket/pins diagram in datasheet 25175.pdf.Quote:
Originally posted by MrLavender
Not a guru :), but no, I don't think that can be done without cutting the bridge. At least I've never heard of a method.
<a href="http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm">
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm</a>
Link to Circuits article to understand how reducing the pullup resistance from 10K ohms to 0 ohms (with the fine wire jumper) changes the "resistance ratio" of the signal circuit's "Voltage Divider" and so changes the signal circuit's voltage level.
And it's safe because the 1K ohm pulldown resistor "limits the current from Vcore to ground". Just be sure that the top of the fine wire jumper does not contact the circular bases of any other pins...maybe just cut a small groove between the 2 sockets to lower the wire jumper a bit just to be sure.
John C.
Edit:- See Workarounds article for marked up pic of socket A to locate AH30 and AK30. FSB_Sense article may also be useful.
Ah, now we do have a guru! :D
Wish I'd known that b4 cutting the bridge on my 2600+ (and voiding warranty).
One question - in the circuits article it says "Note that manual resets of default LOs to HIs using circuits D and H without resistors pose some risk of short circuits, so consider Multiplier bridge mods when mobo/bios is unavailable, or when manual mods with resistors are not practical.". Also, in the Multiplier Workaround article it mentions using a 100 ohm resistor between vcore and the socket pin. It is definitely OK to connected them directly?
Anybody who tries this please confirm that it works for future reference. :)
Key words = "without resistors pose <b>some risk</b> of short circuits". So it is OK to connect <b>without</b> the 100 ohm resistor connected directly at Vcore takeoff...<b>as long as you are sure</b> there will be <b>no accidental short circuit to Ground</b> between the Vcore connection and the pin.Quote:
Originally posted by MrLavender
One question - in the circuits article it says "Note that manual resets of default LOs to HIs using circuits D and H without resistors pose some risk of short circuits, so consider Multiplier bridge mods when mobo/bios is unavailable, or when manual mods with resistors are not practical.". Also, in the Multiplier Workaround article it mentions using a 100 ohm resistor between vcore and the socket pin. It is definitely OK to connected them directly?
For example, let's say user decides to use fine wire u-loop/jumper between Vcore socket and the signal circuit pin. Then user should be sure that none of the u-loop can project above the surface of socket to be folded over and possibly contact/connect to another pin.
So installation technique would be to install u-loop with case on its side so gravity holds u-loop in place, and <b>never</b> back up when pushing in the cpu as that might drag the u-loop up to be possibly folded over if pushed in again. If you must backup, backup all the way to be sure the wire u-loop is all the way in. Just a case of think what might happen, use your head, and be careful.
If you want to use the 100 ohm current limiting resistor connected to Vcore then solder the resistor to the Vcore socket on the back side or some other Vcore point, then run to signal circuit socket back directly, or thru a switch/jumper for easy toggling back to a LO.
John C.
Edit:- People are connecting wire u-loops between Vcore and signal circuit sockets, just consider the ocinside.de site which has the interactive socket/pin mod guide for Multipliers. It calls for no current limiting resistors...though we wonder if it should also have a warning re accidental short circuits to Ground as we do on our site. [Gets scary when you see the complete circuit diagram and get a warning to <b>understand</b> the consequences...unlike the <b>just do it</b> sites where ignorance is bliss] ;-)
It took him some time to post but as soon as we talk about bridges he's the master here :)Quote:
Originally posted by MrLavender
Ah, now we do have a guru! :D
does anyone know, if its important to usw a conductive "gold" pen, instead of of silver ? (because of the specific resitance)
well im finally running higher FSB's now 198 is rock solid! ive done alot of things this past week to improve my volts on rails and chipset volts plus the l12 mod so im not positive if it helped but i know it didnt hurt :D
No. I've never even heard of conductive gold pens.Quote:
Originally posted by xtreme
does anyone know, if its important to usw a conductive "gold" pen, instead of of silver ? (because of the specific resitance)
hmm i doesn't get a success with a needle, yet... will try it today again... :)
hey guys. seeing that the newer 1700+ chips have that "coating" on top, the bridges aren't exposed. am i forced to do the paint or wire trick to the pins to get my svc 1700+ to run at over 215 fsb?
my 2400+ will run @ 218 fsb without a problem but my 1700+ 1.5v cpu will not cut that speed currently:mad:
this is on my nf7-s v2.0 btw
...just tried again, using transparent tape for isolating the pins and a needle.. and it worked! :banana:. im testing right now :O
i've got a 0322 XP 1800 - also with the "design". So you have to do the wire/paint mod.Quote:
hey guys. seeing that the newer 1700+ chips have that "coating" on top, the bridges aren't exposed. am i forced to do the paint or wire trick to the pins to get my svc 1700+ to run at over 215 fsb?
Welcome to the shaking hand club ;)Quote:
Originally posted by xtreme
hmm i doesn't get a success with a needle, yet... will try it today again... :)
Yeah. Think about it:Quote:
Originally posted by antipop
Welcome to the shaking hand club ;)
Hardware is getting smaller and smaller... And what to do when we are old ocers??? :rolleyes: :D
okkkkay...mhmm what should i say ? this mod just kicks ass...
http://so_krazz.bei.t-online.de/250FSB.jpg
this ain't stable... so my 2 little twinmos pc 3200 are at the end :>
did u mod ur chipset voltage to get that FSB? and what processor are u using?Quote:
Originally posted by xtreme
okkkkay...mhmm what should i say ? this mod just kicks ass...
http://so_krazz.bei.t-online.de/250FSB.jpg
this ain't stable... so my 2 little twinmos pc 3200 are at the end :>
Do not see anything...
im using a XP1800+ 0322 WMPW - crappy thing... won't even run stable @ 2.4ghz...
the vdd was 1.85v (dunno, i didn't test anything else...) and my vdimm was 3.22v (is needed for such fsb's :> )
so..this is my end config now...:
http://so_krazz.bei.t-online.de/config.jpg
how i said.. the cpu is crap... ;)
finally the mod gave me ~14MHz with a very cool vdd...
That's some nice results, congrat
Do u have some sandra bench to show us?
mhmm the sandra results are influenced by the ***** cpu :( 2,2ghz ain't enough for this high fsb...
yep... ;D maybe ill try to sink the rams for better results... and i could give ~0.2v more ^^ may its stable then... :DQuote:
very nice see if you can get that 250 stabled out.....thats great for 3200 very impressive..........
after doing the L12 mod, is there a particular bios i should use to see what the potential highest fsb can be?
VERY nice, xtreme. :toast: Probly the only chance I'd have with my 8RDA+ is to do the vdimm mod, but I'm pretty nervous about that one. :( ;)
thx ;)
hmmm i wont do this mod... sell the board and get a NF7 ;D
thanks man:toast:Quote:
Originally posted by pc ice
bios 10
this bios doesn't pose any problems with the serial ata or anything does it? like stability issues fixed with the newer bios'?
i am currently using the 1.7 bios. i shouldn't have any problems flashing back to the 1.0 should I?
im using bios 16 for me it works good...
Quote:
Originally posted by vector7
Ok,
For those who are getting greater FSB does this mod actually create more bandwidth or do you have to retard the timings and end up at nearly the same FPU at a higher FSB?
I also wanna know! Tell us now!! :D
Quote:
Originally posted by Ragnarok
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang/Pinmod.jpg
With Gold Arrow facing top left, the shown portition is lower right corner of the CPU
Thank you SO MUCH dude. That pic helped me so much. i copied it on my 0319 DLT3C (w/ the new pcb) and it works perfectly!!! first i tried doing L12 but it didnt work b/c of the new PCB, then i tried doing it on the socket like shown at ocforums... neither worked. yours did tho. thanks a ton!
prior i could only do 215mhz. Now i am runnin prime stable so far at 228mhz!!!!
ragnarok, can u zoom out on that pic so that i may see the location of the 2 pins?
Emericana or Ragnarok,
I've read this entire thread and I'm very confused. Connecting those pins does the same thing as the L12 mod (133->166 mod)?
I would like to run at higher FSBs with my 0319 1700+ DLT3C. Also, what method did you use to connect the pins? Someone should post a detailed description of this mod and make it sticky.
Yitch
all you do is: connect L12 bridge using a defogger kit or paint or wire mod the pins on the bottom of the cpu or wire the socket holes...there's a pic in this thread on which holes to jumper. use the wire method, it's easy....
chile, what supplies do I need for this mod? It seems it would be easier to buy some conductive paint...but I have no idea where to find some.
I've bought a few CircuitWorks conductive pens now, and their website would be www.chemtronics.com Looks like they're located in Georgia. Hope that helps. :)
Found a micro-tip CircuitWorks pen for $22 cdn (~$15 US). Does that seem reasonable?
Wow! Thankyou so much too, I have a week19 DLT 1700+ and the bridge mod wouldn't work, but the pin one did, although I had to use the same ground as you did, the other one didn't seem to work!Quote:
Originally posted by Ragnarok
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang/Pinmod.jpg
With Gold Arrow facing top left, the shown portition is lower right corner of the CPU
The only problem is that I can seem to get it to let me pick anything other than 'User Defined', no biggy, just frustrating!
Again, thankyou! :D
Yep, that's about right. :) Just so ya know, even tho it's a "pen", you'll get much better results putting some of the ink on a piece of cardboard or plastic, then using a pin or exacto knife to apply it. ;) You'll see what I mean. The tip's WAY too big for connecting bridges.Quote:
Originally posted by Yitch
Found a micro-tip CircuitWorks pen for $22 cdn (~$15 US). Does that seem reasonable?
I've the smae thing after doing the mod, does that mean it was successful?Quote:
Originally posted by kup
The only problem is that I can seem to get it to let me pick anything other than 'User Defined', no biggy, just frustrating!
that means that the bios is not ready for the 11*166 chips :)
btw , make it sticky , make it sticky , make it sticky , make it sticky :D
i didn't notice if anyone has been able to do this on an A7N8X board...
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang//L12mod.jpg
the first pic makes u dizzy, here's a better pic
I agree for the sticky but can you explain me the thing about the bios?Quote:
Originally posted by xigfrid
that means that the bios is not ready for the 11*166 chips :)
btw , make it sticky , make it sticky , make it sticky , make it sticky :D
I does it to me and i don't know if the mod was a success or no
yep antipop, the unknown cpu means that the bios detected a 11*166 chip , and as these chips doesn'"t exist in its database.
So i succeed modding my chip in fact :)
That's why i only have the user interface in the bios, now i think i'll try some better cooling
Those who have reach high fsb (over 230) what cooling are you using?
Wow that's a messy setup you've got here ;)
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang/rig2.jpg
just as messy
heheh
Is that a Nexus Fan controller you got there?Quote:
If so, i 've got the same one, luv the looks of it!
I wonder how did you make a pic with your camera still layin on the desk??
I'm a lil confused about this threat, i've got this NF7S rev 2.0 and a XP2100 tbred. It won't run very high FSB, so i have to close that 3rd L12 bridge to make it run higher and let the bios recognise it as a 333 FSB processor right?
What if i put in a Barton wich is 333FSB by default, will it run higher FSB or does it work the other way around so i have to blow or cut (sounds pretty destructive) this bridge?
Somebody, please clear up my confusion.
As far as i've understand, the first rev of the abit nf7 (rev 1 and 1.2) had problem with 333fsb cpu, so you had to make them believe it's a 266 cpu
The rev 2.0 has a problem with the 266 and you had to mod them to 333 cpu in order to reach higher fsb. Many people tried this mod and in most of the case it was successful. Try it and tell us your results
yeah antipop is right...
btw, the max fsb u get is kinda dependant on teh chip as well..
i had 1700+'s which wont do more than 210, and 2400+ doing 230 straight out of the box..
You'd think it would be easy for Abit to correct this problem in a later revision of their NF7!
10x :banana: have a drink on me :toast:Quote:
Originally posted by pc ice
antipop you fully understand the piont[/COLOR] of these mods and that is great.....:toast:
Damn i feel smart :D :D
I did the wiretrick and it helped me out ALOT :D The mobo didnt like fsb higher than 218 1.7V before the trick and now im maxing out at 242 :eek:
I used timings 2-2-2-7 at all speeds and it was prime and 3dmark stable. BUT I cant boot at 10x242 (9.5x242 works) or any mp higher than 10 and with a fsb higher than 230 :( Its damn frustrating since i solved the fsb problem and found another one..
My system is:
Abit NF7-S v2.0 bios 14 with orginial nb cooler
xp2100 AIUHB 0249 (Prime stable at 2.6ghz)
Twinmos wb pc3200 bh5
Magnum Waterblock and Max Perf radiator
Asus gf4 ti4600
Enermax 431W psu
Weeee.. This is my first post here :banana:
all u bastards are damn lucky
i think i got another 3-4 MHz
bloody hell &#$()&$(*)#Q&$*(
Quote:
Originally posted by beo
now im maxing out at 242 :eek:
I used timings 2-2-2-7 at all speeds and it was prime and 3dmark stable.
Congrats. :toast:
P.S. Welcome to the Xtreme :D
How much volts do you feed the twinmos... and if you would be so kind... what week/year code is your bh5???
Greets
Thanks :D
Im using 2.9Vmem, it overvolts about 0.15V according to hw monitor/bios. Dunno the week or year on my chips, but I will check them asap :) Bought them in norway last april from www.komplett.no. The sticker on them reads pc3200 (cl 2.5)
Hope it helps :)
I found this line: w314, hope its the right one :)
Yes. That's fine. :) ThxQuote:
Originally posted by beo
I found this line: w314, hope its the right one :)
Mine are 0309 bh-5. But they need some more voltage to do such speeds. Around 3,15 up to 3,2 but it's not stable though (at least at 242 upwards) - so I am trying to burn in the suckers ;)
I find it strange that they do not show any errors looping memtest test 11 or 5 for hours but in goldmemory/3DM2k1 they are not stable (goldmem shows plenty of errors :rolleyes: ), but for 3DM I can run it at least 2-4 complete runs at 242...
What's going on there???
Erm, sorry for double posting. :D
But beo, you say your 2100 can do 2,6 prime stable and you cannot boot at 11x236 :confused:
The 11th and 13th mult should work as well as 8 and 9.5 :eek:
Try it out. But it can be your vcore is too high for that fsb (sounds arbsurd but it's a prob of nf2) and thus not stable :shrug:
This is some of the combinations I've tried:
240x10
230x10
228x10
235x10.5
230x10.5
230x11
228x11
It booted at 225x11, but I want more fsb :mad:
Seems like the mobo doesnt like mp's over 10 with fsb over 230
I only need 1.75V to reach 2.3ghz, but still it wont boot at 230x10 :help:
Quote:
Originally posted by beo
It booted at 225x11, but I want more fsb :mad:
Seems like the mobo doesnt like mp's over 10 with fsb over 230
I only need 1.75V to reach 2.3ghz, but still it wont boot at 230x10 :help:
Hmmmm... :confused:
My highest fsb I could do on my old board was first 228MHzx11 with my 1700+@2512 (1,81V) or so, but some trys later I could run 230x11. Don't know what the f*** there's going on but... every nf7-s seems to act different AND if you play a little with ya settings like cpu/fsb ratio from 6/6 to 5/5 or 4/4, you will definately find out a bit more about your rig - what it likes and what it dislikes :D
Keep us posted.
P.S. At the mo I am only at air w/my barton and so I cannot test out the 11 mult with fsb > 225MHz bc of voltage/heat the barty needs/puts out... Get my Prommie this or next week :cool:
Well finally did the L12 mod again for the upteenth time :rolleyes: , but this time i went with a different approach and did it with the wire underneath the cpu pins. Instead of doing it with a piece of wire and inserting it in the socket's pin holes, I did the surgery tieing the thin wire to the 2 pins on the cpu. Booted right up as a 2700 (13x166) but i had to bump up the vcore to 1.65v. Running like a champ now :D
Man it took me about 20 minutes just to tie the dang knot on that super thin telephone wire! :ROTF: After a few practice shots, i got bold enough and went for broke. Now i haven't cranked the FSB yet, cuz i'm using my back up stick of 512 Corsair XMS3000 platinum. No dual channel :( . Had to RMA my 2 sticks of Corsair XMS3200 C2 and i'm waiting on some twinmos. All i have is my back up 512 stick.
Now i'm gonna do this same mod to the other 2100 on my back up 8RDA+ :thumbsup:
Tanx to Ragnarok for that zoomed in clear pic and pc ice for great info and evryone here @ Xtreme Systems for gettin me fired up enough to actually do it! :toast:
another succes story here!!! i was topped at 222 fsb before.did the mod using the wire in the socket technique which was super easy btw! and BAM 248 fsb tops!!!:banana: this is great.
now the only thing holding me back is this crappy vantec stealth psu. when i up my vcore to 2.1 volts and ram to 2.9 my 12v line gets to 11.2 and 5 gets to 4.4:confused:
PC Ice, is there a guide some where with pic's on how to mod my psu, i looked at the pics u posted in this thread but i must say im a bit confused. do u think that will work on mine?
I think you should better get a new psu cause those rails are real bad ass :moon:Quote:
Originally posted by str8_blunted
when i up my vcore to 2.1 volts and ram to 2.9 my 12v line gets to 11.2 and 5 gets to 4.4:confused:
PC Ice, is there a guide some where with pic's on how to mod my psu, i looked at the pics u posted in this thread but i must say im a bit confused. do u think that will work on mine?
IMO no mod can make this psu come up to the demands of overclocking :D
sry if i sound like a noob but i have no idea when it comes to psu's
i know its a vantec stealth 520w. at everything at default my rails are at 11.6 and 4.6, but drop alot when i start bumping up voltages. i never opened it up so i have no idea if there is pots inside, i looked online at revies but none of them opened it up either.i guess i could pop it open and take a look
i have no idea what that means either(sry for being such a noob) by this do u mean the brown wire that u were talking about? i though that was for the 3.3? the 3.3 is the only 1 that is decent @ 3.34vQuote:
did you look for sense wires that follow the main rails.
but on a better note. i just flashed to bios 10 and now i can run at 245fsb with cpu interface enabled!!!!! with the 17 bios i coulndt get passed 230 with it enabled.
Erm... the 1.0 bios only allows 237fsb :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by str8_blunted
i just flashed to bios 10 and now i can run at 245fsb with cpu interface enabled!!!!! with the 17 bios i coulndt get passed 230 with it enabled.
How do you get this. The "low" 237MHz max was the only cause I stayed with 14 :cool:
Standard warning then b4 you open it up - *PSU'S CONTAIN EXTREMEMLY HIGH VOLTAGES AND CAN KILL YOU*.Quote:
Originally posted by str8_blunted
sry if i sound like a noob but i have no idea when it comes to psu's
I wouldn't recommend messing with PSU's to anybody who doesn't have at least some basic knowledge of electronics. If you just want to open it up and have a look then to be on the safe side you should unplug it from the mains and leave it overnight to discharge the caps.
errrr.Quote:
Originally posted by SAE
Erm... the 1.0 bios only allows 237fsb :confused:
How do you get this. The "low" 237MHz max was the only cause I stayed with 14 :cool:
Na, bios 1.0 (for rev2) allows up o 250Mhz.
Btw, nice success stories here, love that :D
ok ill pop that fugger open and let ya know and ill look to see if there is any other wires together with the5/12 volt lines
I think i'll go back to the 10 bios, i'll also remove the nb block and try to reseat it, those shin etsu paste are hell to apply propoerlyQuote:
Originally posted by str8_blunted
but on a better note. i just flashed to bios 10 and now i can run at 245fsb with cpu interface enabled!!!!! with the 17 bios i coulndt get passed 230 with it enabled.
Quote:
Originally posted by xigfrid
errrr.
Na, bios 1.0 (for rev2) allows up o 250Mhz.
Btw, nice success stories here, love that :D
Oh :rolleyes:
Think I got it wrong. My fault. It was the older revisions...
But last I changed to 1.0 I didn 't gain any oc over the 1.4, maybe the ram is maxed out.
Playing around I found out that one stick can go 244 easily at 3,16V the, other one only does 240 at the mo :(
Gonna try the 3rd stick of the batch when my friend visiting me soon :D
Waitin on my twinmos and rma'ed Corsair to get here. My max with the Corsair XMS3000 512 stick is only 205.
I flashed back to bios 10 (got several write errors, but it runs fine) and now Im able to use multi 10x and higher with high fsb :D
Currently im priming 242x10 and everythings is stable, going to test max mhz and fsb now, wish me luck :p:
good luck mate :p
for my part , i 'm currently remaking my wartercooling setup , improving some airflow. here my 1st try with my 1700+ i was running at 2.2Ghz before ( 2.6 was unstable but so nice :D)
Hmmm, i've the wire trick twice once connecting Ah30 to Ah28 and the other time AH30 to AH32 - is this correct because if it is then why does my cpu show up as 500 MHz cpu on the second time i bootup. Currently my 1700+ DLT3C 310 is running 230 but thats because of 1.9V vdd, i cant find any conducting pens so i have to do the wire trick. Plese help.
Look for the third picture Ragnarock posted here:Quote:
Originally posted by Russak
Hmmm, i've the wire trick twice once connecting Ah30 to Ah28 and the other time AH30 to AH32 - is this correct because if it is then why does my cpu show up as 500 MHz cpu on the second time i bootup. Currently my 1700+ DLT3C 310 is running 230 but thats because of 1.9V vdd, i cant find any conducting pens so i have to do the wire trick. Plese help.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...5&pagenumber=8
That's how i got it done with the wire trick. Gotta get a piece of telephone wire. The strands are hair thin, perfect for this mod. Gotta get a magnifying glass so you can see exactly what you're doin. With the 2100, it booted up as a 2700 which is a sign i did the mod right. Not sure about the 1700 tho.
I flashed back to bios 16 cuz of the write errors and now Im able to use 240x10.5 again?? :confused:
Anyways, its summer and to hot to run with high vcore, so Im sticking with 240x10.5 1.9V :D
Thanks for the help ppl :toast:
What mobo are you using? I'm thinking it's showing this because it was succesful but the mobo doesn't recognize an 11*166 chip so it's putting the slowest it has.Quote:
Originally posted by Russak
Hmmm, i've the wire trick twice once connecting Ah30 to Ah28 and the other time AH30 to AH32 - is this correct because if it is then why does my cpu show up as 500 MHz cpu on the second time i bootup. Currently my 1700+ DLT3C 310 is running 230 but thats because of 1.9V vdd, i cant find any conducting pens so i have to do the wire trick. Plese help.
Im using NF7-S v2.0. I've tried Ragnorok's method as well and it booted as 100*5.0. It's a good chip will do 2.5 on air i don't see why it can't boot at 166 on default voltage, but just incase thats the problem how do i fix it?
NF7-S will always boot in safe mode (100Mhz) when a new cpu is inserted, then just set your fsb and multi , and save it-reboot :)
I finally got my ass of the sofa and pulled the Alpha off my 1700.
I tried tying a loop of wire around the pins mentioned but my hands didn't seem to want to co-operate. So I made a loop of wire that I stripped from an old floppy ribbon cable and dropped it into the appropriate socket holes between the two pins shown in Ragnarok's picture, rebuilt and rebooted.
The BIOS was still showing the 220FSB that it had before the wire trick but it won't let me select anything other than "User Defined" in Softmenu III so I gather this has worked.
As for whether it has made any difference, I would get an error 16 hours into the Prime 95 torture test before the "mod". It did this several times. It has now completed 24 hours of the same test after the mod at the same FSB. I'll be upping the FSB again soon so I'll let you know how it goes.
Just thought I'd post this for those with thick fingers and no conductive pen. It's far easier to drop the wire in the socket holes. Just make sure that it isn't too long and lies flat against the socket so there is no chance of it bending and touching another pin.
Here's hoping for an FSB of 240+ but I'm not sure where the Corsair XMS3200 will crap out. Anyone got experiences of max FSB for this memory?
Can't thank you guys enough for sharing this info.
:toast:
Seems you've done it. Welcome to Xtreme BTWQuote:
Originally posted by Demonic
The BIOS was still showing the 220FSB that it had before the wire trick but it won't let me select anything other than "User Defined" in Softmenu III so I gather this has worked.
I had Thoroughbred B 1700+ which I ran 11x200=2205 1.92v on my NF7-S rev1.2
Now I bought a Barton 2500+ which wouldn't do any more than 13x166=2172 1.62v, any higher on the actual MHz would cause prime95 errors or any higher on the bus would cause total hard lockups.
I just did the L12 mod to my mobo making the CPU a normal 133MHz FSB and now I'm doing 11.5x200=2305 1.81v flawlessy
Excellent :toast:
OK, i'm not a n00b... But I read almost all of this thread.... What the freak do i need to do? I have a 1700B that was downgraded from nothing. I have an Abit NF7 (non S) 2.0 and I get 225mhz (6-3-3-2.5) stable right now. Should I pin mod this? Should I cut connect the L12? There are so many people asking these questions and I am getting so aggriavated cuz I can't figure this out. Any help is appreciated. Please quote me when you respond also.
With a 133fsb cpu on a v2.0 you need to connect the L12.Quote:
Originally posted by DriveEuro
OK, i'm not a n00b... But I read almost all of this thread.... What the freak do i need to do? I have a 1700B that was downgraded from nothing. I have an Abit NF7 (non S) 2.0 and I get 225mhz (6-3-3-2.5) stable right now. Should I pin mod this? Should I cut connect the L12? There are so many people asking these questions and I am getting so aggriavated cuz I can't figure this out. Any help is appreciated. Please quote me when you respond also.
I Guess i did the mod right, im guessing that it might be my vdd voltage. I just have a question, what vdd is everyone using to get 230FSB+ and what mode of cooling? I am using Thermaltake GF4 High Performance cooler ment for gpus attached by 1:1 ratio of AS3 and Alumina Epoxy. I did the vdd mod via the pencil trick so im getting around 1.8-1.9V. I think the cooling should be enough for 1.9V vdd what do you think? Russak
Does anyone know how to increase my default vcore on my DLT3C to something like 1.6V? I think that is the reason most of 1700+ DLT3C are not working.
So just painting those two pins is all that I have to do?Quote:
Originally posted by pc ice
why are you getting so aggervated....just chill and then mod the L12 bridge and walla you'r done...here's another pic do the mod paint the pin's or do the pin hole mo or do the mod on the pin's of the bottum of the cpu but i like to paint so her's a pic of that and the other guy's will post pics of the other mod's....
:up:Quote:
Originally posted by DriveEuro
So just painting those two pins is all that I have to do?
And I don't have to touch the L3 or the L12 bridges what so ever?
No. The L3 bridge has nothing to do with it, that is for multipliers. Painting those 2 pins is the same as connecting the L12 bridge on the top of the cpu, it's just easier to do.Quote:
Originally posted by DriveEuro
And I don't have to touch the L3 or the L12 bridges what so ever?
And there is nothing that I have to cut? Just simply paint the pins? Man, the people up earlier in the thread were talking of the L3 and cutting something on the L12 and painting the pins.......... BLAH!
There are different mods depending on your cpu type and mobo version, what exactly you want to do, and different methods of achieving the same effect. What I have decribed is the EASY way to do the required mod to increase fsb for YOUR cpu+mobo combo.
You can either paint the pin OR connect he 3rd L12 bridge (hence the L12 mod title :D )Quote:
Originally posted by DriveEuro
And there is nothing that I have to cut? Just simply paint the pins? Man, the people up earlier in the thread were talking of the L3 and cutting something on the L12 and painting the pins.......... BLAH!
Awesome. Thanks. I finally can do this!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!! Thanks guys.