Will do later today
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Will do later today
Hi AndyM.
I really like your mod. :up:
As I'm a TJ07 owner and WC'er I see that I have a long way to go to get to your level... :yepp:
But you have given me some ideas.
I was wondering about your HD cooling. Does the fan pull air from the outside, or does it just circulate the air from the case?
To me it looks like the front of your case is closed.
Yeah, its just an air circulator, no outside intake. I had the mounting for a fan, so why not use it? :cool:
Cheers mate :)Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
Just as you, my WC setup is made for low/no noise. How will you describe the audiolevel of your fans after you replaced the stock mesh with "Modders Mesh"?Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
Any measurements yet?
Im hoping a BIX120 will only take up the bottom 3 5.25" bays :o
I havent noticed much difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by JvT
Here ya go...Quote:
Originally Posted by Borgod
The DVD drives go only as far as the very bottom of the 'C' shaped cutout in the side panel.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum037.jpg
This should give you an idea...
BIP held up roughly to the fan screw holes it could be mounted to.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum042.jpg
I had my machine on the workbench tonight as I was installing some backplates I made for the EK Mosfet blocks, so I took the opportunity to snap a few photos of some new features.
First up...the custom made backplates. 1/8 inch aluminum:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum012.jpg
They keep the MB from bowing as it will if the mosfet blocks are just screwed in to the bare MB. An added benefit is that sufficient pressure is now applied to the mosfets to allow AS5 to be used vs. whatever crappy 'thermal' tape is commonly used for a superior thermal interface. Now there is enough 'crush' to level out the mosfets for adequate block contact on all of the chips. Note this is the P5K Deluxe, where Asus thoughfully soldered mosfets on the back of the board as well. On a standard board one could simply sandwich in a strip of neoprene or something for insulation should this be tried.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum006.jpg
I got a spiffy new Raptor X on sale for cheap, nothing like something spinning at 10K rpm in your computer :p: . I noticed quicker XP load times, so it's good. You may notice the Dynamat wrapped around the sides and bottom of the HDD cage. Again, a noticable improvement in sound damping with this stuff, especially with Raptor seek noise.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum017.jpg
I also have a high-tech fan controller now :rofl:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum044.jpg
And a nice overall shot of the loop as it is at this time, along with a change to the 'curved blade' Yate Loon fans.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...luminum023.jpg
Excellent, thanks for the pic mate. I'll have a few mm to spare :)
Mosfet cooling I've had bad experience with using an Abit QuadGT. They need very little pressure, so I hope your block isn't screwed down too tightly!
The latest addition to my machine...Lian-Li DVD bezels. Really cleans up the look of the face of the TJ07 I think...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...vd_door067.jpg
I made a seperate worklog for this mod as I think it would be more useful not buried in this thread...
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=155986
:clap: well done mate that looks awsome... must be a sauna down there :rofl:
So you just have the cpu/mobo/gpu watercooled... could you setup take two overclocked 8800gtx's??
What temps idle load with:
CPU
MOBO
GPU
??
Looks like ill get one of these at xmas with a pa 120.3 in the bottom to cool my amd 6000 + 8800gtx... will be enough??
Yeah, my ambient temps are on the higher side. 2 G80's? Sure, that'll work with no forseeable problem, maybe then it would be an idea to split the loop due to flow restrictions as right now it's on the edge where flow/temperature effects can be seen. If the pump is turned below 2 CPU load temp goes up 3-4C due to flow issues, but anywhere above that pump speed setting temps go back down remaining the same within the 1C resolution of monitoring software. But good to think about should you want to add more stuff to the loop with 1 pump.
I really dont look at temps too much as they are so variable with my wildly shifting ambients and whether the fans are at 7 volts or 12. But full bore small FFT load with ~80F ambients/12 volt fans is in the low-mid 70's. Idle in same ambients with fans at 7 volts range 44-47C with the water getting warm. Keep in mind I'm at 1.592 idle/1.584 load vcore at 3.85 GHz, so heat output is rather high. Turning down the speed some 100-200 Mhz will drastically lower temperatures with this CPU. But that's not what I'm after, this sucker is right at the edge of where it will take no more...50 MHz more and it's not Orthos 'forever' stable, but at 3.85 it is, so that's where it stays, lol.
I am starting my first water cooling project with a TJ07. I noticed you have no reservoir just a fill port. Is that correct? Why no resservoir? Where does the fill port enter the loop? Any disadvantages doing without a reservoir?
the filliport is typically placed prior to the pump...but pretty sure Andy has it before one othe rads in the front
Look at the ~11th pic in first post
Look at my thread..my T-Line is ver obvious(the tubing does not have to be so long for the T-line...mine is capped with cut portion oif CD spindle stalk
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?p=2392004
I hate a res....mine cracked but I had removed from my loop just one more expense and risk...T-Line..brass T= $2
Yup, no res. T is located down below as nealh described. I never saw the point of a res, seemed a bit overdone. If you had to top off your loop all the time, I'd think you have bigger issues than needing 'extra' to keep it filled. Bleeding isnt really a problem for me with a T, also with all the stuff in my loop I dont have enough flow with my D5 to knock loose any trapped air bubbles, so bleeding is a tumble the case/start-stop pump/guide bubbles to the T proposition for me. Works out OK in the end.
On a side note...I backed down the OC to 3.8 from 3.85. Amazing how that last Orthos stable 50Mhz and .05 volt can really get things cooking. Now my temps are low 60C's full Orthos load in my upper 70F's ambients. Much cooler running overall as well, and I dont think I'll miss that 50Mhz. Although those 6850's are interesting...do I spend $300 and roll the dice on making 4.0Ghz Orthos stable or wait a few months for 45nm to arrive, decisions decisions :p:
Thanks gentleman, I think I'll go without the resesvior. The resesvior just takes up too much space even with this large case. I have been reading these threads. Encluding Nealh's. If I got this right the T is placed before the pump with the fill line attached to it. I'll just think this over, review the threads again and reconsider my tubing path. I was initially going with the setup at Performance PC but I am now leaning toward something similar to Andy's with but one PA 120.3 in the bottom.
I found Andy's T fitting with the fill line. It is in the front of the case just before the return to the radiator. I was wondering since Nealh was mentioning it usually goes before the pump and Andy's pump is in the back of the case. That would be a long fill line, but I see Andy just went before the radiator but is that before the pump? I believe the T filling is after the pump between the radiators.
Generally most recommend the T-line right before the pump....Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathspine
Now in Andy's case being right before a res seems to work just fine
Pretty much any random location will do, the idea here is to have an easy path for air to escape while you are bleeding it. Your choice of location will determine how easy fill/bleed gets. Out of sheer luck, that long piece of hose before my T came in handy to be able to shut the pump off soon enough so flow would stop keeping bubbles visible in the hose to 'guide' them out before they hid in a non-visible location. The longish hose going to the roof of the case has a decent enough capacity so filling while bleeding isnt too frequent as well.
My loop goes... pump>gpu>cpu>mosfet>mosfet>ridiculusly long hose to lower front of case>T-fitting>rad>rad>pump...
your sleeving and cable management is excellent!
What type of black sleeving (size, brand, link?) and heatshrink (size,brand,link?) are you using. I got a sleeving kit from Petra's and the black loom is not as black and shiny and the heatshrink doesn't shrink enough.
great job i really like the modders mesh idea i would love to try but i just dont want to see all my wires i have hidden down there but more airflow is pretty tempting
Thanks guys! The modder's mesh makes such a noticable improvement in airflow through the radiators, any wires showing are kinda secondary in concern IMO. Of course sleeving and tucking them away works too :cool: At any rate, I highly recommend the mesh, the stock stuff is just too restrictive in comparison.
Sleeving is the EasyCut kind from McMaster-Carr in various sizes I had on hand, heatshrink is the standard PCV kind from the same place.
I really think you will need to get up and close to see any tucked away wires...Quote:
Originally Posted by louie101086
my modders mesh will be here Wed for another mesh grill creation..LOL
thanks! I just went on their website and :shocked: they have a ton of products!Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr4gon
Yup, my favorite toy store :D
I remember someone saying that changing the mesh made no difference to temps.
Better air flow is better air flow. Whether or not it made a difference in one person's loop is not a global indicator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Borgod
Check post #11 here, and read a little closer on the temp difference with the panels on/off.
if I take my panels out completely...I saw a 2-3C drop from stock..on my gutter guard temps are 1-2C better than stock mesh
no doubt more airflow helps
Fair enough then.
An Australian shortage of black TJ07's stunted my plans, but mine finally arrived yesterday.
Time to blow the cobwebs off the dremel :D
I took the opportunity today to do a little testing. I was curious what effect having both rads drawing outside air would have on temperature. When origionally setting this up, I kept in mind airflow...specifically going in one side and out the other taking the heat outside the case right away. It seemed to be the best way vs. having each rad drawing from the outside, then having to turn, then making its way upstairs to heat up the components residing there...etc.
But I wanted some definate answers if I would have better temp results doing the conventional thought of each and every radiator drawing outside air with no regard to airflow issues. I proceeded to flip my fans on the 120.3 so they would draw air in. I disconnected the center fans so they would not spin. I had thoughts of maybe removing them for more accurate testing as they might affect airflow, but with them not really sealed against anything and the built-in plenum space in the rads and gaps between the rads, it seemed whatever inaccuracies would occur would not be too drastic. That and I'm too lazy to tear my machine apart to be able to get at them. The fans were kept at 7 volts as is usual, and the case sides were on (note that I have 'modders mesh' for my grills so they flow a lot better than stock).
I turned on the AC and did some Orthos testing and awaited seeing some "OMG!!! :eek: " improvements in my temperatures. After everything warmed up, I noticed that the temperatures, well, sucked. At least compared to my memory of load test temperatures before. Time to do some 'scientific style' testing.
Using TAT's "100% load" function on both cores so I could have a really high and consistant heatload, I let that run until things stabilized and took a screenshot of what was happening...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...TAT1007min.jpg
Rather high temps reported by TAT & Coretemp. Note the readings from the 8800/Rivatuner graph as far as ambient temp goes, as well as the MB temp from Asusprobe. Seems things get warm upstairs with radiator exhaust heating up the MB compartment.
I then put things back as they were with the airflow going in one side and out the other, same TAT load left on for almost an hour...much better temps.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...AT10045min.jpg
No radiator exhaust blowing into the case keeps the 8800 ambient temp reading and MB readings cooler as well. The radiators are noticably cooler with the fans oriented this way, confirming the software temperature readings.
So, in the case of a TJ07 with wide thermochill radiators, it appears that it is better to have an 'in one side and out the other' fan setup. My results may have differed if I was using thinner rads, I removed the inoperative center fans during testing, I wasnt using a tower case where airflow would need to make a turn resulting in less airflow though the rads, etc etc etc.
I also did a bit of very rough experimentation with a kind of push-pull setup...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ki00/rough.jpg
While this is a really lame attempt improve flow with both rads drawing air from the outside as a lot of the intake area of these 'floor fans' are trying to suck though a sheet of metal, I wanted to give it a try anyway. It was so bad that it made no noticable changes so I wont bother persuing this idea further. I think the primary issue is airflow is so affected by having to turn reducing the amount making it though the rads at a given time really affects the water temperature. Seems the benefits of lots of air volume moved from 7 fans going all one way vs. 3 fans going one way, 2 fans going the other, are better in this application.
Hey man, it never hurts to test! Thanks for spending the time!
I couldn't agree more with NicePants42!
This worklog here has inspired me to improve my current setup...
Thats great info, cheers mate :)
Nice looking there, I have a quick question for you andy, Does that case use rivets to keep the frame together? If so...how did you get them off.
Nope, all screws, very easy to tear it down to a bare shell.
ah I see! Well thats good, dammit... Lian-li uses rivets and im trying to figure it out haha.
Thanks for the testing Andy, was considering doing that myself and now I know not to bother.
I suppose my question now is, does having the extra 120.2 rad help?
Would you get the same performance with just the 120.3 and great airflow? You could put another set of 3 fans to push the air out the other side if you ditched the second rad.
I think it helps. I'm coming from another triple rad setup, only using BIP's for that one. My max OC with that keeping the fans at 7 volts was 3.6Ghz. The thing would rapidly reach for uncomfortably high temps idle/load beyond there (I have a higher heat-producing "B" chip). Mind you BIP's are totally outclassed by the Thermochill for low-cfm setups, but that's what I'm building...high OC with little/no noise. Now that I have added mosfet coolers (P5K Deluxe gets real hot...and has a ton of mosfets all over the place), and ran the OC up to 3.8, this new setup really handles high ambient temps and low fan speeds with keeping temps where I like them. No way my old 'triple' setup could have handled that. Using a single Thermochill I think things would be a bit on the warm-ish side, I'd probably have to turn up the fan speed for the same cooling capacity.
andy i love the modders mesh thing so much how did you bend it to look like it came with the panel becuase i ordered the mesh but i am still tryin to figure out how i will get it to shape right
It might seem like some extra work...but if you go through the process of clamping it between two blocks and hammer the edge over to make a 90 degree angle before cutting it, the cut will be mostly hidden vs. just cutting to fit. I know the cells by chance happen to perfectly line up with the size of the vent hole, but doing the extra step makes for a better final result. I think that there is a guide on the mnpctech site on how to work with this stuff, and there is a worklog or two here using Home Depot gutter guard using this method (I'm forgetting who posted one). Here's a picture so you get a better idea of the end result...btw, a permanent marker makes a pretty good 'paint job' on this :D
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ll_edge001.jpg
I really would like to know how did u connect those fan cables on the radiators together . It looks nice and neat. Is there a tutorial for this or maybe you can explain it somehow?
Check out this thread. Should be enough to get you started.Quote:
Originally Posted by pringle140
andy, thats amazing, well done. where did you get the 3/4 length standoffs to mount the hard drive cage up top?
Not to steal AndyM's answer, but to me it looks like ordinary motherboard standoffsQuote:
Originally Posted by 64dragon
the ones that have come with the 2 cases i've used so far were 5/16", less than half the length of what he used to secure the hard drive cage to the 5.25 bay.
just checked newegg pics and it does appear that the standoffs that come with the case are much longer that what i've gotten with other cases. if what comes with the case is 3/4 then that saves me a purchase which is very cool. i'm gettin a tj07 next month/x-mas, cant wait to have a REAL case
Nice work as usual Andy. Thanks for sharing the good photos.
AndyQuote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
Those wires on the fan spokes could do with a smear of black liquid electrical tape over them. Finishes them off nicely.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Large_6365.jpg
64dragon: For my current project, I'm also using a TJ07 and my plan was to do the same thing as Andy. Unfortunately, I could not find those 3/4 inch standoffs at the hardware store. Probably because I didn't look hard enough. The standoffs that came with the tower are just about 1/2 inch and don't even come remotely close to the walls of the 5.25" bays:( In the end, I just bought hard drive adapters.
For peeps in the U.S.of A., there is only one source anyone should consider for all fastener/odd tidbit needs........Mcmaster
you are correct, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
now i just need to figure out the screw sizes
get them alum (cheapest) 1/2 3/4 1 1.5 inch lenghts
and try thread sized 6-32 standard throught out your case
also good buy is a 6-32 hand tap with the handle, so you can tap most holes (including the PA120.3 holes) into a standard all through out your case.
On the standoffs...I found some at work that just happened to be the needed length and were the same thread as the P180 HDD screws I was using, so I dont have a source. I'd think McMaster might have something similar.
Realy nice work, I would like to ask some question:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n...build259-2.jpg
may you let me know, please, wre did you get the grommets in the picuters? wich size arr them ? wich size did you drill the holes in the case to put them ?
thanks
How did you fasten the mesh to the sidepanel? I've tried to line the mesh up with the holes in the sidepanel, where the original mesh was fastened, but I can't seem to align the mesh all around to fasten the new mesh in the same manner as the original mesh... :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
i remember him using 3m mount tape i think, the super strong double stick tape
nice build man, gave me alot of ideas and plenty of info :up:
No tape...just some mesh left long to have a 'strand' that can wrap into the holes. Took a bit of tinkering for sure to get it to mount up.
im asking the same :)Quote:
Originally Posted by giorgioprimo
They are part # 9600K55 from McMaster-Carr. Holes are 1 inch.
HOT FLASH:
More stuff soon to be stuffed into the case...in the form of a Lian-Li 343B 3-bay fan housing in the 5.25 bays, a PA120.1 behind that, the HDD housing experiencing some relocation/mods, another D5 pump, and addition of D-Tek nozzle kit.
Awaiting parts delivery, then awaiting time to do this, should be fun. Excessive cooling rocks! :p:
cant wait to see all this
Yeah cant wait to see this myself as i am in the middle of watercooling my tj-07. But i think i will be mounting a Pa120.3 in the top and a PA120.2 in the front so i can leave the 6 hdds down the bottom.
On a seperate note, your build is so tidy and stealthy looking. Its a breath of frest air from the usual wanna be " 80's disco / Miami neon " looking thing people seem to be fond of.
Keep up the good work :)
Well, here's a couple quickie photos of the mock-up stage. The needed cuts to make the Lian-Li parts fit are done (the 5.25 bay panels need a bit of trimming). I also cut down the fan housing so the radiator fit in tight to the fan. You can get an idea where the HDD's are going in the second photo.
I'm using a rather trimmed down stock HDD housing for this (fan wings cut off, and now it is a 2-drive housing just in case I get a 8800 GTX sized video card in the future). I may drill holes like Lian-Li V-series HDD housings are so that enough airflow gets though to cool the HDD's, or just buy some more Lian-Li parts. I do want to keep the top of the HDD cage open to see that spiffy Raptor X though, so I'm wondering how sturdy the Lian-Li parts are with the them mounted upside down and nothing supporting them at the top. Whatever HDD housing I end up using, it will be mounted on some silicone bushings to keep the Raptor quiet, and may also be wrapped again as before in Dynamat (really cuts down the noise).
I also need to get some left-angle SATA cables for the HDD's, along with some plumbing items, but a good start on this so far. Maybe in a week or three it will be done :cool:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1.../single001.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1.../single002.jpg
is that tubing white?
Nope, just crusty Masterkleer :p:
Has anyone seen UV reactive tubing?
A little update on the install...
First up is a photo of the HDD cage mounting. I'm using a standard TJ07 HDD base installed on the mid-floor. I added some Antec P180 silicone HDD bushings to mount the cage for some vibe-free mounting. Also pictured is the black USB/audio front panel plug tray. I trimmed the edges down so there would be more clearance for the radiator.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install026.jpg
Using some more of the P180 silicone bushings, I made a mount for the D5 on the edge of the MB tray.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install014.jpg
Here's a shot of the overall configuration to make room for the added 120.1.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install016.jpg
HDD cage in place. The cage is a cut-down TJ07 cage. SATA cables are 'left angle' types, as I didnt want to start chopping apart the MB tray to route them around back. I have just enough clearance for 8800 GTX-sized video cards in the future. Better view of the Raptor X now as well :D
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install029.jpg
And now a couple views of the 120.1/343B rad/fan module. A fair amount of modding on this thing. The 343B fan housing was cut down so the radiator would mount onto the fan. Then I drilled out the rivets holding the filter assembly and disposed of that (better airflow). So that the air intake would consist of outside-case air (cooler), I made some baffles for the top and bottom of the fan housing out of some spare 5.25 bay blanks. Since I have the room, I'm using 2 fans for this rad in a push/pull setup. And now in all its glory...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install039.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install047.jpg
And finally, a shot of the radiator module installed. If you will notice, the TJ07 5.25 bay panels need to be notched so the Lian Li parts can fit.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install053.jpg
More later...
According to the instructions (at least on my old Laing D5) that's the only way the pump shouldn't be facing.
Ruh roh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Makubex_GB
Just checked the Swiftech instructions...no mention of a preferred mounting direction. These have floating impellers, so.... :shrug:
Anyone have anything more on this?
AndyM, Check this out (page 2).Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
http://www.lainginc.com/pdf/IM-17%20...d%205-2006.pdf
The reason for this is air can get trapped in there and lead to premature bearing failure. Another reason would be that the water removes some of the motor heat, if there's a air bubble trapped there, far less heat will be remove possibly causing motor failure as well.
Hmmm, this does present a problem. I'm wondering how much of a problem this is if the remarketers of these things dont mention this under warranty stipulations. Anyone actually burn a pump up mounted like this?
AndyM, I think you'll be fine if you bleed the case on it's side for a few days before you use it like that. If all the air is gone, it can't pose a problem, can it? ;)
Yeah, no air = probably just fine.
But for good measure...I went to plan B....
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install072.jpg
This might just make for a slightly neater tubing setup the way I'm seeing this now. Still have room for a longer video card in the future as well.
I'd like to have the pump where it was, seemed a bit better balanced visually, but now I'm thinking of that spot for a nice install of a BigNG, been eyeing that trinket for a while. Might be interesting dropping the fans to 5 volts as warranted instead of the constant 7 volts they are set up as now. I have the space still...:p:
I like it. super clean mounting of everything.
Looks good. Plan B does seem like the best way to go. :up:
Got the upgrade pretty much wrapped up. Seems those D-Tek nozzles work pretty good, looks like around ~3C better Orthos temps using the 5.5mm nozzle with the spacer.
And on to the photos....
As luck would have it, easy HDD power cable setup with the drives where they are:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install076.jpg
A bunch of photos of a whole bunch of stuff in a TJ07:
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install081.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install084.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install082.jpg
Is it Lian Li? Is it TJ07? Best of both I think. :D
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...install086.jpg
That Masterkleer is disgusting :P
Very neat n tidy. The TJ07 seems to be a great case for this type of setup.
1 or 2 circuits? Both pumps are D5's, right? What sort of temps are you getting?
Love what you did with the hard drives mate... solves the lack of 5 1/4" bay issue very nicely for several hdd's.
PA120.1 looks very pro-mounted :)
are you going to swap out that tubing?
Thanks guys!
Q's...
It's single loop still with 2 D5's. Temps...in 80F room it's mid 60's depending on which Orthos routine it's doing. Seems about 3C max cooler than before the nozzle treatment. Not too shabby with a 6600 'B' chip with 1.51+ vcore @ 3.8Ghz.
Scuzzy tubing...yep it is :cool: . Too lazy to change it, I'll just wait until the new stuff matches the old :p:
How long have you been using the crappy Masterkleer? I don't want mine to die too fast :shrug:
That's impressive! I'm struggling to bring mine (B2) towards 3.8, just wont hold that level and be stable. And thats at >1.6V, guess every chip is different, hey? Again very neat setup - this case must be amazing to work with, a modders dream for sure. I have kept my Tt Armor since I got it maybe 3 yrs ago - still very happy with it but nice to see what can be done with a TJ07, have seen many good mods with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
that tubing looks digusting, but otherwise, nice work andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by polar bear
Thanks! When I say 'B', I'm meaning the L627B, not B2 stepping. The B's are seemingly hotter running than A's, at least in that chip's generation. FWIW, max Orthos stable for my particular CPU is 3.85Ghz, but the vcore is goofy at that speed with similar heat output, so I turned down the speed 50Mhz for 24/7 style operation.
I've been following this thread since it started and like many others, am very impressed. So much so, that I'm going down the same path.
The only change I was thinking (and I believe it was mentioned by someone earlier in the thread) was cutting a ventilation hole in the bottom of the case so that both rads could be set up with fans drawing out through them and venting the warm air back outside. This schematic is based on thinner rads than your thermochills, but even with them, you should still be able to gain sufficient venting up from the bottom. Note, you should place at least a single sheet metal divider vertically up from the center of the vent cut in the base to keep cross-flow from disturbing proper flow between both rads separately. Also, this will require the addition of "feet" to the case so it sits up off the floor. I was thinking of simply pulling off the circular feet from an old receiver. They will look pretty nice.
I'm also modding a front 120mm fan to intake into the top section of the case almost exactly like what you did, but without the single 120mm rad.
What do you think?
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1...sidebu0.th.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7...rearib9.th.jpg
i like your idea, especially the "air-guides". With low rpm fans, I don't think the bottom hole will be too small for 5 fans to breathe through. If you want to use high performance fans, I guess that they will have a hard time...
Do think of one thing though: How to build a removable air filter!
With 5 fans sucking air from the floor, you will have a very dust-free area around your TJ07, but you will be needing to clean your radiator VERY often!! When my water cooling adventure started, I mounted a radiator in the bottom of an Antec Sonata case sucking in air. My case was raised quite a bit from the floor, but still I had to tip my case every week to vacuum the radiator. Now, the Antec Sonata case is only a midi sized case so it's not that heavy or hard to tip once a week, but the TJ07 might be a different story. That only applies if you put a filter in the bottom cutout you are going to make. If you do not put an air filter of some kind in the hole, You will be wearing that radiator mount out by removing at least one radiator to get to the other for vacuuming.
So a removable air filter has to be included in your build, for your own sake.
Sorry for using your thread AndyM, to comment on Hijacks idea.
just a tray with a peice of mesh that fits in it would be fine. then just stretch a pair of old pantyhose over the mesh for a cheap and free flowing filter.
A bit of an upgrade this weekend for my machine...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0/E8400007.jpg
The IHS is not nearly as wonky as my E6600 was, but still has high spots in the wrong places
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0/E8400015.jpg
Now that it is flat, a glob of my favorite TIM...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0/E8400035.jpg
Ohhh, shiney!
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0/E8400038.jpg
An extra 600 Mhz over my old C2D, gotta love 45nm. Room ambients at 79-81F during this testing.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...44_12hours.jpg
Hey, well done! 600MHz, thats a healthy increase :D And 67C for max cpu temp is not bad at this clock speed.
So did you just get your wolfdale? I've been trying to get my hands on one of these for months now, still it has not arrived at my edealer. I just heard rumours intel has halted production (temporarily) of the 45nm duos.
Also - I guess that is AS5? It just looks so shiny and, well silvery :p: Looks beautiful in fact.
Oh and nice lapping. But why does the IHS looks copper red in 3rd pic? Is it just reflection from something else or did you prep it further after lapping?
All in all seems your weekend has been very productive :clap:
THanks! The red is the final lapping, the first picture was just to show the high spots on the IHS. The TIM is Coolaboratory Liquid Metal...excellent stuff, I cant say enough good things about it.
I was holding out for an 8500, but as they seem to be vaporware in the USA, I gave in and got an 8400. This chip got me to where I was seeing myself after moving to 45nm, so it worked out well. Saved some $$ too if the 8500 should actually be available sometime, lol.
TigerDirect has the e8500 in stock now if you're interested. $300 US.
Also, hope you don't mind my intrusion in your thread here, but I've got such enthusiasm for your project, that I can't help but share what I'm finding on my own journery down the same path.
I found this today: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21082
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/5...2b02ch4.th.jpg
I know you've already done a killer job mounting the Lian-Li 120mm front fan bezel in your case and attaching your single fan rad to the back, but this one is a silverstone front itself that you might like. I'm ordering it for my case. (also saves me from having to notch the internals to get the lian-li to fit).
EDIT: Heh, nevermind. I see waaay back in the thread you had already considered this piece! Mia culpa. I do like the look though.
hate to bring up an old thread but props on the job. looks amazing
Yeah...There are some kind of killer LCS systems.
Excellent wiring job!
Great Job AndyM!
I'm thinking of having bother rads exhausting hot air out each side of the case, drawing cold air in from the top compartment as all fans will be intakes there 2x 92mm rear 2x 120mm top(Including 2 x 120mm fans from 2x antec 900 bays for HDD's)
Do you think this could work well?
Holy thread revival Batman :eek:
To answer the question the rads in the bottom compartment are fairly isolated from the upper chamber and you are probably better off having both move air in the same direction rather than drawing on the warm internal air...
hmm.. perhaps you are right but it would be top positive pressure heavy using 4x 120mm and 2x 92mm and with 5x 120mm in the lower compartment so I was hoping for some pressure push to get the slightly warm air down there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangals
The main thing I was concered about with your idea is feeding hot exhaust air into the second rad, are you saying this is not a concern?
I have both my rads moving air in the one direction in my TJ07 and there is no noticeable affect on performance - I have tried the air moving both ways as well and temps didnt change between them. Plus the main benefit to using the external air rather than the internal is that you are using fresh air for the first rad rather than air that has passed over every other component in your case to feed both rads...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ch3ck5um
My :2cents:
I went with the PA rad sandwich with both sets of fans blowing in the same direction and your right its very good :)
3x 120mm intake - 2x 120mm exhaust.
Thats a nice case and nice work on it.