Yeah, i dont really want to read a thread full of weak flaming, sorry. And there are a ton of people asking this same question, so maybe they are in the same boat as me too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
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Yeah, i dont really want to read a thread full of weak flaming, sorry. And there are a ton of people asking this same question, so maybe they are in the same boat as me too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
WARNING, Danger! Danger! :D
From here on out you must understand that I am not connected with Aqua Computer or any of their distributors. If you decide to take apart your pride and joy and find you can't put it back together so as to have a functional device then do not take it apart! Doing this kind of mod takes a certain amount of mechanical and electronic aptitude. If you don't know which end of a soldering gun is the business end then enjoy the pics and the good conversation here. ;)
Okay we have had enough fun and games for a while. So back to the Aquaduct. Last night I started the disassembly and here I have already taken off the blue plexi top.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_20.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_21.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_22.jpg
One thing that is very important about the un-tightening sequence is that you must use a cross pattern and only a twist or two of the driver per sequence. This will became apparent later on as to the why.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_23.jpg
Make sure you bag up the screws as the flat head TORX screws may be hard to find in your locale.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_30.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_24.jpg
The wires you see here are the important ones to make sure you don't accidentally pull out of the top plate. These are the four (4) LED's that make up the blue glow you see in normal operation. These LED's can also be configured to glow red according to whatever temp you decide should be a visual warning. :cool:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_26.jpg
When I first pulled out the top plate a ways I wasn't sure how all this was connected together so I decided to take off the plexi plate that you can see fitted into the top plate. This is totally unnecessary so don't do what I did. However, the plus side is that you get to see more pics, right? :up:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_25.jpg
That plexi plate was really difficult to get out. If you decide to take it out you will need some dental probes, some jewelers screwdrivers, and maybe some kind of really thin piece of flat stock about 1.5" wide.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_27.jpg
I finally got that dang plate out. Be careful you don't scratch it or you will be FUBAR as two o-rings seal against it.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_28.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_29.jpg
Now that I got the front plate off this is what is underneath it. For those in the know this looks like a pretty standard Aquaero circuit board, except for that big electrolytic capacitor just between the LCD board and the Aquaero board. Notice the sleeving on the fan wires? Now that's class to sleeve when no one will ever see it, huh? :D
Another odd thing is that you can see that they have the ribbon cable (to the left of the molex power connector) hooked up to something. Wonder what that is because AC has said that the Poweradjust unit can't be interfaced to the Aquaero and there certainly isn't an Aquastream in this Aquaduct. I guess we will see later what the surprise is. :confused:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_31.jpg
Here is one of the plexi plates. These also have an o-ring groove machined into it so that it seals against the aluminum side cooling extrusions.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_33.jpg
I have been thinking about something here. See that gigantic flow chamber? I wonder how much extra flow you get from having that additional water cross section in the loop. That's 1.890" x 0.710" x about 23" x 2 sides plus the fairly wide water channel in the top plate. :p:
Remember when I suggested that you be very careful when unscrewing the Torx screws. Now you can see why I made the warning. The tapped holes are missing about 20% of their threads so creating a lateral force on the top while taking it off might FUBAR the threads. BTW, I would highly suggest that you cover that surface with some blue painters tape to protect that surface from scratches. O-rings don't like scratches.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_34.jpg
Here's another pic of the top plate. Make sure you don't pull the LED's loose as they fit exactly into the plexi plate shown above.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_35.jpg
Hey, we got more cross sectional flow here add in another 6mm x 25" x 2 tubes. :D
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_36.jpg
Here's the right side of the top plate. The little red ball only shows flow when you start up the Aquaduct. While it is in operation it sits up here in the top block.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_37.jpg
The next job is to slide out the black plate you see at the top of the pic.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_39.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_40.jpg
That's all for now till I take some more pics. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
:rofl:
What's even funnier is that they didn't want to touch that with a 10 foot pole. :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
Top Nurse,
Thanks for going through the trouble to disassemble this unit and take a lot of good pictures with text descriptions. Good work.
Very nice detailed work there Top Nurse!:up:
finally the "meat" or part of the unit...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyxxx
Thanks for the nice nice. :up: :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinch
Now that the [H] is back up I thought you might like to see my worklogs:
Heres my latest work on Feeding Frenzy Interlude, which is my work computer. It is really rather short in length, but I still got a bit left to do.
This worklog is called Feeding Frenzy, which is my screw around computer. This one might take some time to view as it has 736 posts and it hasn't been finished yet in two years now. :shocked:
Now that is perserverence and I commend you on taking all those pictures and making that. Cant wait for more, excellent work!
Thats looks absolutely awesome, and very nice job with the through pics !!!
@TN While I know we didn't agree on the Push Fit fittings (and now there seems to be evidence I may have been correct on this point) why have you not published temps?
I'm not looking for bashing or flaming. Just the facts.
I do appreciate your efforts. I just want to see the results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanhacker
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ileys/read.gif See post #10
Sorry, but for now you will have to bug theseeker and R1ckCa1n to publish temps as they both have Aquaduct's running. After taking off the top plate I mentioned earlier this has a whole lot of wire and sleeving work to do. It will also take me a while to see if I can go up to 8mm ID tubing as that may not be possible within the mechanical construction constraints.
As for the push-fits I was correct within the parameters I set for using the tubing I use. PUR tubing is quite ideal for push-fits. When you try and muck up the tubing with stuff you currently use in big bores, that is when the problems start. So long as the proper tubing is used with the proper connector there are no problems.
Okay. Thats fair. I just didn't remember you setting the parameters when we discussed this last week. My bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
Personally, as I said last week, I won't be using Push Fits until I hear a majority of people are successful.
I do find it interesting you don't back off with Push Fits after Gabe's results were posted.
Is this due to convenience or some other aspect I'm not aware of ???
Pretty nice pictures there TN! Can't wait to see temps. :up:
Please post the Results already.
Theres no point arguing over this.
I dont even think Temperatures are going to be that great, unless TP fabricates them, or has 320CFM Fans running over it.
Hmm. Okay. I'll sit and listen.
It's because they work perfectly for me and thousands of users worldwide. It's only here in the USA that people haven't been exposed to them to any great degree in the water cooling scene. Convenience is another factor. I put a flow meter in my loop and it was installed and running within about 10 minutes. I can change my loop order in less than 20-30 minutes. And best of all they don't leak like hose barbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by sanhacker
Maybe you lie, but I don't. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ad1tya
I assume you didn't read the thread from your comments...
^^ Lol, That was a joke.
Ill quote Petra's Sig? :P....
Lol, Why didnt you post temp's as soon as you got it, and before your DDC Mods?Quote:
She canna take it anymore captain, we're experiencing a catastrophic sense-of-humour failure! ;p
I hope your atleast jotted them down, to refer to them, as before mods/after mods.
She has not used it yet. How can you post temps if it has not been used.
agree 100%:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinch
I agree TN over at [H] was unbarerable. But he(she) does make solid points . and yes a well designed low flow system is just as efficient as a high flow system.
As for mixing aluminium and copper . It can cause problems. So I decided to to experiment. Almost 2 years ago I bought a koolance cooling system and decided to use it with a storm and maze 4 using koolance liquid. I checked the parts every 6 months. after a year and 1 1/2 years without changing the coolamt zero corrosion. NONE nada, I will post full results at the end of 2 years with testamonials from the people involved in this experiment.
I don't know Marci or Cather. But have read a lot about what they have posted and it is in fact good stuff. Cathers storms is nothing but:up: for its time and the best part i could think of to use to check for corrosion .
I used marci rads in everthing their great . I now use only his 160's in some case's as we now have our own 120.3 type rad and its very efficient.
But 4 160's in a system is very hard to beat their that good. I wish marci would change his 160's inlet and outlet so as to use G 1/2 Its hard to clean them out after I modd them. But I really like the 160's.
Hopefully we can duplicate their performance soon enough haven't succeeded yet but soon. So I don't have to modd anymore 160's it is a pain. in the arse.
Marci if you read this. The reason I modd your 160's is because the flow threw a 160 's is infact the bottle nick for the systems i use them in .
I use 2 pumps going into a 6 loop flow control set up . so I need to run between 6-8 gpm threw the 4 160's . I have found that 3/4 I.D. copper tubing works great to connect the 4 rads. All the loops use 3/8 copper tubing I.D. Except the hard drive loop 1/4 works fine their and the chipset and memory loops. the 2 video card loops and 2 cpu loops are 3/8 .
Of course for now 1 of the cpu is blocked off till skulltrail but I have tested flow with all blocks in place and without modding the 160's they bottleneck the flow. 2 gpm to the 3/8 loops and 1 gpm to the 1/4 loops.
Didn't bother as I had no computer to add it into at the moment. I know most people would want to immediately slap it into some rig and take it for a spin. However, in case you hadn't noticed I take the road less travelled and decided to just start modding. For me modding is the fun part and what I get out of it is just secondary gain. I know that any mods I make will be beneficial so who cares what it did before I mod it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ad1tya
Okay, time to do some more surgery. The next operation is to get the back panel off. To do this you have to take off all the 3mm fan screws. Another :dog: here as two of the screws had the socket hex stripped. Not fun to have to get a pair of vice-grips out to get them off. Well no big deal as I plan on only using stainless button heads on re-assembly.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_43.jpg
Here you can see me sliding off the back panel.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_44.jpg
In case you were wondering how they did that fancy grill this is it. AC has started selling this grill in some pre-made cases so I think it is only a matter of time before they sell them by themselves.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_45.jpg
Here's looking at the bottom inside of the Aquaduct.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_46.jpg
Here you can see the Eheim Compact 600 pump and the DigMesa flow meter is barely visible under the tubing on the right side. I take back what I said earlier about their good wiring skills. All these wires are going to have to be customized to the proper length and sleeved. How about a plexi back plate here? :D
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_49.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_50.jpg
Here is a close-up of the 360 radiator and the temp probe they have placed to measure the air temp after leaving the radiator.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_51.jpg
The water tubes go along both sides of the radiator. Seems strange, but I guess we will have to wait till further disassembly to see what's up. The wires also are routed through this area on both sides as well (more sleeving and shortening). Using bigger tubing looks kind of tight in here. Guess I got to order the tubing and see what we see.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_52.jpg
The circuit board you see here is the pump controller board and is piggy backed to the Aquaero. In addition it has a ribbon cable to allow control and create a feed back loop to the software/hardware.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_53.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...quaduct_55.jpg
More later when I have time to process more pics. :)
Hmm... its interesting to see what goes on in this thing. I know you are very detailed oriented, but why sleeve all the inside wiring?
Because I like to mod things and I'm thinking of having a plexi back plate the color of the top Aquaduct cover. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Prodigy
You should see what I did to my $2,000 Celestron C-11 telescope. :scope:
Ok, now that sounds pretty cool. Definately would want to see how that turns out. Oh yeah, check your PM's. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
The plexi back plate or the C-11 mod? PM sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Prodigy
BOTH! :p: Especially the plexi back plate though =D.Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
I took mine completely down yesterday so I could do two things. One was to fix the flow meter (drill out the inlet to match the rest of the loop) and second was to see if there was a way to replace the pump with a DDC. Good news, the flow meter is fixed but there is pretty much zero chance of replacing the pump. Sad because that is what will hold this unit back from top performance.
TN has shown better much eveything but these:
Bottom plate
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...f/IMG_5372.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...f/IMG_5376.jpg
Interesting how much thought went into how the water flows through the base. I wonder if they thought it would help with cooling..... Who knows.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...f/IMG_5374.jpg
For those who wanted to see the software:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25.../watertemp.jpg
I wouldn't discount the use of the DDC yet. I think there is enough room, however you will have to leave the stock pump in place. Just remove the impeller and allow the water to flow through the stock pump.
I took the liberty of doing some Photoshop work on your pics as seen below to highlight more detail:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMG_5372.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMG_5374.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMG_5376.jpg
TN, i dont agree with you on your concepts.
But i give you high respect in the detail your taking apart that system. :up:
As for me, im not going to comment about performance and corrosion issues anymore.
Keep the pics coming tho!
I can see this remaining thread of controversy remaining as long as no new flames are injected. Otherwise, even this thread is going to be closed :)
very true...
I hope not as I am digging the looks of this system. Almost tempted to dump my stuff and go for this.
:para: will keep quite about this statement.Quote:
Originally Posted by chunkylover77
kind of outside of the scope of this thread, but still related.
This is precisely what I have been warning people concerning quick-connect fittings. If this fitting is at the pump inlet, the depression will cause this seal to fail over time.
I'd recommend adding a locking-clip underneath that collet to pull it out. This will provide additional guidance to the tube.
In all fairness though, in this particular unit, the problem is not critical in so far as there is plenty of coolant in reserve, and refill access is easy since its an external system.
I agree but the only thing saving them is the tubing is pretty firm. Use a thinner wall tube (mazzer) and it will leak for sure. I removed that entire loop around the radiator and have figured a way to save a combined 7 feet of tubing from the original configuration. A few more tweaks are in the works and I want to see how it compared to a stock unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
I am disappointed the DDC will not work.....
I can tell you this unit is not about top performance and should not be marketed as such. The way the water flows through the unit makes it impossible to get alot of flow without causing major fill issues. Corrosion is always a concern but do feel confident in AC Fluid and the fact no place does copper touch aL directly. Plus the AC fluid smells like waffles :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
It is very impressive in person!Quote:
Originally Posted by chunkylover77
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...f/IMG_4794.jpg
Actually what you are seeing doesn't happen in real life. The only reason you see that is because I forced the front panel up (between the aluminum twin towers) before unhooking the tubes from the push-fits. When the front panel is in place there is a straight shot down the side panel to the fitting.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe
How is it noisewise? Is it near silent when idle? How's the AC fan controller? I have my bigNG configured to control fans depending on the load. My configuration sets the fans to about 5 volts when idle. It'd be interesting to know if this unit can be operated like that to be very quiet if not silent..
Quote:
Originally Posted by migueld
Dead silence unless I game for an hour or so and it still is less audible than my pesky power supply fan. My normal operating RPM was 350 which is about 35% power.
What in the world could possibly be controversial about this thread? It's a simple take apart, mod, and put it back together again thread. The only thing controversial about this thread is some of the yahoo's who come here to flame about a side issue. Reminds me of a mindless mob at times. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
I have not but will once it is back together. I picked up a Dtek GPU block today and want to test with a single block, two blocks, and three blocks against my current DDC1 and thermochill PA120.2. I might need to place an order for a PA120.3 so I can have both radiators the same for the test.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Will a PA 120.3 fit in there instead of the AC one? Are you changing the fittings so you don't have that big ass long amount of tubing in there?
fan holes are spaced 25mm apart instead of 15mm on standard rads IIRC, so I don't think it's possible to just do a quick swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
Yeah, no PA120.3 but that was never expected because of the fan placement and there isn't enough depth to get it in there. My hope is boring out the flow meter will make this be a pretty decent cooling device. If time permits I'll swap the flow meter with a stock on I have still to get a delta on the stock unit.
What size did you open it up to?
I dont know about performance, but that is pretty damn cool. Thats so sweet. Cannot wait to see more!
Bring it on sucka!!!!:D Hey I just think it looks swank. I have been all over the watercooling spectrum. My first kit was an Exos and it worked damn fine. Was just too loud for me. Moved up to a pc75 with Rad up top. Used the original White Water block on that one. Moved up to an external system called the V5 made by JPI performance systems and that is the system I have liked the best. Then I got my G5 and have loved that block however am not loving the case I have it in.(V2000). I love having new cases and so an external system for me is ideal. Have looked at Newls system and like it alot. Also taking a look at Lechucks system. I pmed him but he has not gotten back to me. Really want the Silverstone TJ10 next and so want an external system that will go with any case.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
And after you going though all that, your still willing to mix metals?Quote:
Originally Posted by chunkylover77
Okey...
What have i gone though.
No kits in particular except swiftech apex
Ive gone though:
BIP, BIX, BIGTS, BIGTX, MCR120, MCR220, MCR320, PA120.2 PA120.3
Pumps:
AquaXtreme 50z, D4, D5, DDC-1, DDC-2, RD-30, CPS MAGII,
CPU Waterblocks:
Apogee, ApogeeGT, ApogeeGTX, Storm Rev.1, and Rev.2, DD TDX, DD RBX, D-tek Fusion, SP-05,
<dont get me started on GPU blocks>
So.... You still want a fight? :D
I feel for you :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
What about the Spir@l, TC-4, TC-4 rev2, Maze4, and WW CPU blocks?
MAG2 pump lolz...
TN more pics please.
Rick, the mod you did on the flow meter is going to cause it to read lower flow rates than you actually have.
the inlet of the flow meter was restrict because to get an accurate reading it needs to creat a jet of water coming at the paddle. You increased the size of the inlet, thus reducing the water velocity. the reduced water velocity will cause the meters paddle to spin slower and thus the readings will be lower.
I'm sure you can adjust for it in the Aquaduct software, but I felt that I should point it out.
cant wait to see this.... subscribed
I did the same thing with my flow meter this evening. Some people just open up the intake to around 6mm and then put the input line to the output side of the flow meter that has a defined 5.9mm hole. The pulses per liter is known for that configuration.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
What RickCain and I did was to open both holes which makes for a better flow. To finish the job we will both have to redefine our Aquaero pulses per liter in the Aquaero. It's a PITA job because you have to measure exactly what you get out of your system during a one minute time frame and do it several times to get a good figure.
It is probably a two person job because if you let the Aquaduct run out of coolant on the fill side you got major problems and would have to drain and refill it to get the air out again.
If anyone is interested you can find the manual here.
Okay I have to go get some sleep because I got a 12 hour shift in the ER tomorrow, but I will post some more pics tomorrow evening. I also get a chance to flame AC some more over some stupid stuff they did. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
eek. thats alot of work just to get a relatively accurately flow measurement. I suppose its nice, but that device imposes alot of restriction just for flow measurements. IMO it would have been prudent to just have a flow indicator. if its spinning the system is ok and if not, the software initiates a shutdown sequence.
I assume the base of the Aquaduct is annodized aluminum? In the pics it kind of looks like delrin but I doubt it.
ThermoChill PA Series fan spacing is 25mm.Quote:
fan holes are spaced 25mm apart instead of 15mm on standard rads IIRC, so I don't think it's possible to just do a quick swap.Quote:
Will a PA 120.3 fit in there instead of the AC one?
Come on now I didn't go through all my blocks and pumps and rads.:bows:Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
What I have now is G5, Weapon heatercore, Silverprop Gpu, RD30. All in a v2000. I'm bored with the case and really would like a better Rad and gpu block. I want to go external because I like getting new cases.
Well, i just wanted to state, im scared to mix metals at even my level of experience. In truth i already mixed metals, and ran into several nightmares. I messed up once, and my cousin messed up twice.Quote:
Originally Posted by chunkylover77
I think i lost my BIX, because i wanted bling a very long time ago, and mixed it with a TT aquabay. <--- BAD MOVE.
My cousin lost his reserator, and bigwater kit because he mixed metals.
So if you went though all that, and your still willing to mix metals.. :X
Max, that AC additive contains phosphate, wasnt it a big nono to use a phosphate based coolant because it caused damage on the pumps?
*Glances at Innovatek aluminum GPU block, then coolant containing AC additive*Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
uh oh...
Wow we are on a roll lately. :D First it was the tubing size that hit the burners and now we get to talk about AC Fluid protecting the world. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
You can think what you want about phosphates, but you need to be specific about the exact chemical compound being used as there are lots of phosphate compounds. Due to a recent post here on XS we now know that this is the phosphate compound we are talking about. Please keep in mind that I am not a chemist and only had a few chemistry classes in college. However, I am quoting from the link above for the information I think is pertinent: "Phosphonates offer a wide range of sequestrants to control metal ions in aqueous systems. By forming stable water soluble complexes with multivalent metal ions, phosphonates prevent undesired interaction by blocking normal reactivity of metal ions. This ability contributes to function as threshold industrial water treatment and metal treatment processes (antiscalants, corrosion inhibitors, chelants, sludge conditioners, pulp bleachings, deflocculants, dispersants, metal cleaners, electroplating and crystal growth modifiers)."
This has been used by me for several years now with no ill effects from galvanic corrosion and my pumps and other water cooling hardware look just like new (when I change my coolant once a year I tear down what I can't visually see). Other chemical compounds used to control galvanic corrosion are much more bothersome in the context of what we use it for.
For instance many use glycol based automotive chemicals because at high concentrations (15-30%) it can help prevent galvanic corrosion and add lubricity. However, this has an untoward effect in that it decreases the efficiency of water to transfer heat into, which is a bad thing. Also using glycol based coolant was very unfriendly to the environment because most people would pour this stuff down the drain when exchanging coolant. So most people, given what they knew, decided that mixing aluminum within a copper based loop just wasn't worth the trouble, right?
While all this was going on in the USA there was another group of water coolers in Europe, primarily Germans, who were also looking for water additives that would help with water cooling. Now the people in Europe are more conscious about the environment that those on this side of the pond. Consequently environmental laws are more tough there so the use of automotive based additives was somewhat frowned upon.
Fast forward a few years and there is now two distinct schools of thought about water cooling additives. Here in the Western Hemisphere we have been moving away from aluminum in the water cooling circuit because it causes galvanic corrosion and the fix to stop it (automotive based additives) decreases waters ability to carry away heat by decreasing the efficiency of water. Makes perfect sense given what we know to even a school child, right?
Over on the other side of the pond we have the other school of thought which found a totally water soluble ingredient that would stop galvanic corrosion from occurring, add a small amount of lubricity to the water, and all at a very low concentration (2%). So that is why you see items like AC Fluid and TEC Protect being sold in Europe and lately being imported into the Western Hemisphere.
That is also the reason you see much more aluminum being used in Europewhere it makes sense to do so in a water cooling loop. Mostly you see aluminum in Europe being used in motherboard coolers for ram and VR's because copper is a waste of money on those items not producing heat to the degree that the CPU and NB put out. We also see aluminum being used there in full cover GPU blocks for a similar reason. However, I think we will see less and less aluminum used here as the price comes down and more people adopt the really heat producing GPU's like the 88xx series of cards.
So now you can believe either story you want and personally I really don't care what you do believe in. Course I am interested in not having galvanic corrosion in my loop and I also like the my aluminum Aquatube and my VR block. So for me I am sticking with my AC Fluid because I know it does exactly what I want it to do.
The only thing really left here to do is to figure out how much of a loss in temperature efficiency of water can be traceable to the AC Fluid. Personally I don't see that a totally water soluble chemical in a 2% concentration (2% additive to 98% distilled) is going to make much difference. However, I also think it would be better that we proved this to ourselves, right?
So I am willing to invest some of money to get this testing done and I need some of your help. What I need is some testers who have water temperature sensors so that they can measure the water in their loops before and after adding a 2% mixture. I will supply a bottle of AC Fluid and a syringe to accurately measure the stuff and you just report back here what your results are. :)
Does that mean that there is approximately a 1" space between the fans?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marci
It doesn't after you open the holes to the same size as the tubing used, but I assume there is still a small amount of restriction just to make the paddle wheels go around. And of course you only have to do the measurement one time. The alternative is to to have the pump limited to about 80 LPH when it can go up to about 200+ LPH due to the problem seen below:Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...rAssembly4.jpg
BTW, there is a flow indicator on the side of the Aquaduct, but it is just a small red plastic ball that lets you know everything is right when you turn the pump on.
The bottom is aluminum that has been hard anodized by Rhodes A.G.
I pilfered a bit off the site that concerns us:
Corrosion-Protection
Anodized layers, produced according to accerted standards, possess an excellent durability against industrial and sea athmospheres.
Layer Build-Up
During the hard-anodizing process the oxide layer grows (different from decorative anodizing) forming columns to about 50% within the base material, the other 50% builds up externally.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ichtaufbau.jpg
Characteristics of Hard-Coating
• Hardness: 300 to 450 HV
• Layer thickness: up to 140 µm
• Material self-colouring capacity
• Wear-resistant – similar to hard-chrome
• Corrosion resistant against climatic influences
and a multitude of chemicals
Any chance of getting a thickness and fins per inch measurement on that radiator?
just pulled out the measuring tape on my PA:Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
spacing between the fan holes is 1", but the spacing between the edges of the fans are closer to 3/8" (but I may be reading the measuring tape incorrectly, since we're on the metric system here.)
I think it is around 22 fins per inch and 1.187 thick (total thickness)Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
[QUOTE=Top Nurse;2280116]Wow we are on a roll lately. :D First it was the tubing size that hit the burners and now we get to talk about AC Fluid protecting the world. ;)
QUOTE]
Sorry i had to condense it.
But you totally missed the whole point on my question.
I am asking MAX if using phosphate based coolants was a bad thing, because i remember reading about them. And how they damaged the pump and the impeller. I am NOT asking about corrosion or anything else which you are so energetically jumping to.
If i remember correctly, using phosphate based coolants caused a buildup on the impeller chamber which then caused pump failure. This question was not directed at corrosion so dont jump at it.
This is also why using regular antifreeze is not recomended, because most of them are phosphate based, minus the ones exotic car companys use, like porshe and audi.
I dont think AC went out to a porshe or audi dealer to pick up some antifreeze. And someone also quoted it smelled like waffles which is almost near what a water wetter smells like. So TN, once again, you need to read the question im asking about, and if you have no idea, then you need to keep quiet until someone who does know what the correct answer is.
Yep, does smell like some tasty waffles!Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
There also were some reported problems with AC fluid and alpha cool blocks. To be exact the AC fluid ate the o-ring.
Well I was trying to save server space by just quoting a small part of your post. I went back and quoted the whole of your post just to make you happy. However, aren't you sounding like a broken record here? You keep saying the same FUD over and over again.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Please try to add something to the conversation that might be helpful, okay? If you think that the stuff in AC fluid is going to cause problems then there certainly should be conversations and information about it correct? Then instead of interjecting FUD please just show us some information or data that connects the AC Fluid ingredient with your comment. Mentioning what some other chemical compound did or does to water cooling components is just not helpful here? Didn't I specifically state that the stuff used in Europe in non-glycol based?
Why is it you fail to believe that AC Fluid or TEC Protect does what it does when years of it's use in Europe has failed to produce the dire problems you say it does? Is it because the people reporting it don't read, write, or speak English? If so then get your Google translator on and do some searching through the European forums. :)
That might be possible because it has a very low amount of acid in it. However, I sincerely doubt it happened at the recommended solution rate of 2%. I've noticed that many water cooler's don't pay attention to the instructions and just dump the whole bottle in their loop thinking that more is better. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by RickCain
BTW, do you use AC Fluid and at the recommended solution level? I have always considered just using distilled h20 and some kind of anti-biological agent in my loop because I trust the quality of hard anodizing that AC does, but since I don't think it has any noticeable negative effects I have just used it anyway. However, if someone can point me to some data that says otherwise I'm all ears. :)
I cant wait to see the temps hopefully with a 100+ Watt w/OC C2D and a gfx card block in there. Kinda concerned that the FPI isnt what is usually viewed as good for slow fan speeds. How noisy is that thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
are u an idiot??? im sorry one second your praising this guy for finding the secret igrediant, and now your telling me to get my facts correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Top Nurse
DO YOU NOT REMEMBER THIS POST ON PAGE 3???Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairydust
DO YOU KNOW HOW TO READ? IT SAYS ITS A PHOSPHATE BASED CHEMICAL.
Get your head out of wonderland, you aint wendy, and im sure peter pan would of kicked you off the ship a long time ago.
Im seriously SICK and tired of your stupid and lame comments. WAS my question about phosphate based coolant directed at you? NO it was at MAX.
You just lost all respect i had in you.
IF YOU CANT KEEP TRACK OF YOUR OWN THREAD THEN STOP POSTING.
Dead silent most of the time from what others have reported. The fans that come with the Aquaduct are new items from AC which they call Airstream. Here's a stock pic because I haven't taken off the fans.
Are you a child? I'm not trying to make fun of you, but just want to know how to talk to you in a language you will understand. I do the same social assessment on every one of my patients so that I neither talk down or talk over their comprehension level. Once you let me know where your at I will then explain more about my post, okay? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Aah, this would stop if you could just post Temp's TN. :rolleyes:
She can do it in a new thread when she gets back from her vacation. She's been warned numerous times, and it hasn't stopped. Staff are taking it into their own hands.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ad1tya
Others have been warned.
For the last time everyone, cut the crap. Heads will roll and the WC section will have a lot of "Banned" regulars if it keeps up.