are there any other suitable locations, where i could ground? wanted to solder it half way up the chord, like hell fire suggested!
also more pictures would be highly appreciated! ;)
Printable View
are there any other suitable locations, where i could ground? wanted to solder it half way up the chord, like hell fire suggested!
also more pictures would be highly appreciated! ;)
You could ground it to anything, the case if you wanted to (but I wouldn't suggest it). I grounded the 5V and 12V all to the same place. Just use any black wire. I would take more pics of mine but I already taped it up.
Good luck and welcome to xtremesystems
thanks for the nice welcome. :D
thought about putting the mod under the nylon. just in case i have to rma the psu! :|
but maybe i try it the way you done it! why should i fry my psu? *g* vdimm worked also out just fine!
If you do the mod test it before you hook the PSU back to your computer. If the power supply has problems coming on after the mod that usually means the voltage is out of safe range.
You might want to try doing the mod inside the power supply. It was a little to crowded for me to get to the wire but im sure if i spent more time on it i could.
did the mod yesterday. everything worked out like it wanted it to! :D
3.3 rail raised from 3.26 before the mod, to 3.47 after!
will to the 12v and 5v today!
At a boy Ichwill, have fun a moddin' Crank it up fookers!
Man, school is kicking my nutz bro. Got Advanced Java II, 2 hardware engineering classes, advanced Physics II, Statistics..thats not counting the 3 labs that are part of those courses....arghhhhhhhhh. Fire needs an adult beverage and maybe some, uhhhh, mmmmmmm toasty. :hehe:
Stupid ASUS and Kingston still havent gotten off there asses and fixed my HyperX stability issue. The damned new bio release allows up to a whoppin 600fsb, but my HyperX crumbles at 215. And for 24/7 usage I have to stay around 200. ACK!!!
I heard they released some new chips, but a poor college guy cant go buying another gig of HyperX after he already spent $300+ bones on the first set. If ya ask me, they should take these damn sticks back and send me more.
Hows things with you oh wise and powerful modder?
Dont all kingston sticks come with a lifetime warranty?
Yes, as long as you don't remove the heatspreaders (not sure if that is "fixable" ;), since I've never done it to my sticks).Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
Dont all kingston sticks come with a lifetime warranty?
Yeh, they have life-time warranty, doesnt mean they will take em back jsut because of a compat issue with a certain board. Wouldnt hurt to ask I suppose.
Actually... Kingston will and does do that on a regular basis. These high-end RAM companies are EXTREMELY good about RMA's. :toast:Quote:
Originally posted by Hëll ‡ Fîrë
Yeh, they have life-time warranty, doesnt mean they will take em back jsut because of a compat issue with a certain board. Wouldnt hurt to ask I suppose.
Da Fire will take a shot at it....why not try atleast. I have modded this board to hell and back and still cant do 215+ stable. Will do 215fsb for benching, but eventually craps out. Nothing worse than being in the middle of fraggin some nazis and puter goes bye bye.
lol, no kidding 8-)
Darn server I play DoD on is full.. argh.
What ya think of CoD man? Lil thread hi-jackage neva hurt a soul. :hehe:
I'm downloading the "preview" now :D
Many of my friends play it and think its pretty awesome. Grpahically it is suppose to e superior to all FPS out there at the moment. Better than Medal of Honor, Raven Shield, and Battlefield.
UT2K3/Halo/U2 have it beat in graphics if you ask me, but all i've played it on is a GF4 Ti4200.. Its just the quake 3 engine.
Personally I like DoD better, CoD seems like a bit much of a rip-off and the aiming system is horrible 8-(
Thats all I am using as well - Ti4200-.
I like many things about DoD over most games...especially its gaming translation. It just seems to play so damn smooth.
do this in the console:
gl_texturemode "gl_linear_mipmap_linear"
Trilinear texture filtering.. you might ahve to do it each time you start dod, though.. it doesn't want to stick for me..
Ti4200 was at an internet cafe place.. i've got my 9700np.. 8-)
Looks like this will be my weekend project.
Can I just ground it to my psu casing (slap some electrical tape on it or something? Or should I solder it on there :( :() I wish I somewhat understood what I'm doin here haha.
Also, to measure the voltage from a molex connector, does it matter which holes you stick it in? (no perversion please ;) serious question!!)
Yes, you can ground it on your PSU casing. Like you said, though, it has to be completely secure. Ideally, you don't want any weight pulling the ground wire down, because if it falls, not only will your rails drop (and likely result in a system crash/BSOD, and possibly even hardware damage), but it could contact something on your mobo and fry it!Quote:
Originally posted by Saffire
Looks like this will be my weekend project.
Can I just ground it to my psu casing (slap some electrical tape on it or something? Or should I solder it on there :( :() I wish I somewhat understood what I'm doin here haha.
Also, to measure the voltage from a molex connector, does it matter which holes you stick it in? (no perversion please ;) serious question!!)
IIRC, solder won't work... My solder wouldn't bond with the PSU casing, for some reason (I didn't really spend too much time on it, though, so don't take my word for it :)). Personally, I use SMD grabbers and attach them to the grill on my PSU. :).:toast:
On a molex, the grounds are irrelevant, (IIRC), but the red line is 5v and the yellow is 12v.
Wonderful! No soldering makes the job look that much easier. Guess I get to make a trip down to the Radio Shack.
I'd just do everything internally and stick the pots on the back poking off the side so you can turn them witha screw driver.. solder the grounds right onto the mass of black wires and you're set.. 8-)
If I had pictures of one modded internally, I'd prob do that ;) But as it is, I'm pretty clueless as to how to go about doin it (those pics from the Japanese website aren't helpin, all I see is some holes and xxohms stuff :D
Sucks to be electronically impaired.
Hello
One q. so if I got that correctly there's no way I can fix +3.3 line on my Antec TC550W ?
Mine's at +3.2V when I have pots on max voltage, pretty bad and it's holding me back a little.
There should still be a sense line running the length of the ATX connector cables. Look at one of the corners of the ATX connector for a thick and a thin orange wire. They should both run into the same "slot" on the connector. The thin wire is the sense wire and is the one to mod. I would be surprised if you couldnt mod that psu regardless of its already added benefit of having the rail adjustments built in.Quote:
Originally posted by morphling1
Hello
One q. so if I got that correctly there's no way I can fix +3.3 line on my Antec TC550W ?
Mine's at +3.2V when I have pots on max voltage, pretty bad and it's holding me back a little.
Yes the sense line is present, and I did the mod, but I used 100ohm fix res and 50k VR (Pilsy's mod). And when I slowly lower the resistance nothing happen. Is the problem in material that I used ?
I suggest u try it with the 10ohm fixed and 1Kohm variable resistor...
macci said if u use a large fixed resistance it might cause some fluctuations.. are u using a 15/25 turn VR? if so u prob just need to turn a bit more aggressively :D
Yes I'm using 20 turn VR. But I did turned it all the way down, till the PSU just restarted, so something is changing but it's just not showing on voltages. I'll try 10 ohm in 1k to see if there's any changes
Are you measuring the 3.3v rail from the psu cable?
What are you grounding to btw?
No I'm looking in bios, is that the problem ?
I'm grounding to case.
My bios readings are close to 0.5v or more off on 2 of the 3 rails, so I would check directly from the cable.Quote:
Originally posted by morphling1
No I'm looking in bios, is that the problem ?
I'm grounding to case.
Use the real thin plug from the psu that has the 6 small slots in it. Ground to anything you like (case) and its easier to just stick something metal into a slot (paper clip is good) that has a orange wire running into it. Obviously stick the paper clip into the slot with the psu unplugged or ya may get a lil jolt. :hehe:
After you boot up the machine, just stick the black probe from the multimeter to any good ground and then touch the red probe to your paper clip to get the reading. Go into the bios and check how the bios is reading versus what your multimeter is reading to see how accurate it is. Thats in fact a good thing to do with the 12v and 5v rails as well. You can check those rails by using one the molex connectors from the psu. Those are the ones you plug into hard drives/cd roms, etc. The black wire is obviously the ground and plugging into the slot with the yellow wire gives you the 12v reading and the red wire gives you the 5v reading.
GL.
Hello again
I finaly got time to buy new Antec TP 430 psu, to replace my old loud 300W psu on second rig, and I mod +3.3V rail right away. Now I used 30 ohm fixed resistor and 1k VR, well it works. Voltages are now adjustable.
And today I try the same mod on Antec TC 550 psu, and the mod works like a charm on this psu too. Great feeling when you can up the +3.3 rail as high as you want and not get stucked with max 3.2 V on this otherwise great psu.
Thanks guys
Happy everything worked out for ya.
This place has a wealth of information.
Something tells me that pc ice may like da NF7, but I am not sure about this.... :hehe:
Hi, just a quick question from a relative nOOb to volt modding.
I have had a bit of experience with my 9800pro but would like to clarify some things B4 I go ahead with these PSU mods.
The question is:
What do i set the 10K VR to? Max resistance (10K) & then lower the resistance as I go along?
I don't get it. Why do we have to use a resistor and another VR ? Can't we just solder a VR between the sensor wire ?
I'm a nOOb at this but I think it's the same as the IC7 mem mod, just in case your VR/trimmer's ground comes loose you'll still have power without it shorting.
I'm probably wrong in my assumption though. Just a guess. I'm only following what the senior members have done as it's proven.
Just my little 2 nOOb cents...
If you read farther into the start of the thread its noted that just putting a resistor/VR/Diode directly into the vsense line doesnt work on all PSU's.
A VR from ground to the vsense line may work without an inline, but nobody has tried as of yet or not noted their results here.
Thats a true statement there STEvil. I have done the mod with just the VR on the sense wire, but also done it where it wouldnt work without a fixed resistor running inline with the VR. The psu wouldnt power up with em both.Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
If you read farther into the start of the thread its noted that just putting a resistor/VR/Diode directly into the vsense line doesnt work on all PSU's.
A VR from ground to the vsense line may work without an inline, but nobody has tried as of yet or not noted their results here.
Depends on the psu, some run fine with just the VR while others require both for some reason.
Yes, set it to max resistance and go from there is the best thing to do. With it set to max resistance, there will be only a marginal increase in voltage based on what VR you used.Quote:
Originally posted by Minnyboy
Hi, just a quick question from a relative nOOb to volt modding.
I have had a bit of experience with my 9800pro but would like to clarify some things B4 I go ahead with these PSU mods.
The question is:
What do i set the 10K VR to? Max resistance (10K) & then lower the resistance as I go along?
I did the 3.3v sense line mod, and the 5v sense line mod on my 400w antec "smartpower". Next time I have it open I may take some pictures just incase people are still struggling. (I also kind of want to show off the nice clean job I did :D )
One thing to note is that as I raised the 5v line the 12v line decided to tag along, which was quite a nice surprise for me consider that there was no 12v sense line.
Right now I've got the rails set like this 3.3v@3.46v, 12v@12.23, 5v@5.16v. If anyone thinks these rails are too high, lemme know.
If you look at these results, I don't really any reason to buy a "truepower" version of the antec power supplies.
Thanks!:D :D :D
On many power supplies, the 5v and 12v rails are "connected" so to speak. If there arent individual sense lines, 99% of the time the adjustment to the 5v rail will bring the 12v with it.Quote:
Originally posted by lalPOOO
I did the 3.3v sense line mod, and the 5v sense line mod on my 400w antec "smartpower". Next time I have it open I may take some pictures just incase people are still struggling. (I also kind of want to show off the nice clean job I did :D )
One thing to note is that as I raised the 5v line the 12v line decided to tag along, which was quite a nice surprise for me consider that there was no 12v sense line.
Right now I've got the rails set like this 3.3v@3.46v, 12v@12.23, 5v@5.16v. If anyone thinks these rails are too high, lemme know.
If you look at these results, I don't really any reason to buy a "truepower" version of the antec power supplies.
Thanks!:D :D :D
Just for future reference. ;)
I did the mod sometime ago following this guide here. Here's how I did it. :) Did it using a 10ohm resistor w/ a 1k pot.
Looks nicely done. :cheers:
Malves, that's looking real good.
Just a bummer I'm no good with a soldering iron. Have to wait for my m8 to do the mods for me. I'll be joing you guys at the extreme end of things.
It's a pity that the TP 550w PSU can't hold its lines too good. Apart from that they're very good (cheap) in AUS.
Tryin to get 100 posts up so I can go to the buy/sell part of XS forums. Wanna get some decent BH-5 ram to try these volt mods I'm doing.
Sorry if Im reposting any, but ive read through this thread and this is gonna be my first volt mod so i wanna get things right. Im gonna run to Radio Shack and pick up a multimeter and some resistors as soon as i get a confirmation as to what is best. From what ive read, these are what i need:
3.3 - 10 ohm fixed resistor and 1 K VR
5 - 36 ohm fixed and 10 K VR
12 - 68 ohm fixed and 10 k VR
Do those look right? Also, Im gonna have the same multimeter as Malves does, so after I get all this done, where do i measure volts at? Thanks for all the help guys.
makatee,
I've asked a few members on the exact subject you're asking & fromwhat you posted, you are right.
All you need now is to dop the mod & you;re set to get a big boost to your PSU lines.
I'll be doing the mod ASAP, most likely after I get meself some volt lovin' BH-5's.
good luck with your mod m8. Should be a cinch if you're capable with a soldering iron which I'm not.
Minnyboy-
Thanks for the confirmation of what parts i need. Now i just need to know where exactly im going to measure the voltages at and how...Ive never used a multimeter and never done a volt mod. I can work a soldering iron fairly well though. Anyone else wanna help me out with that stuff?
makatee,
measure with the multimeter to max resistance on one of the outer pins.
Lets say you measure 10K Ohm on the pin closest to the screw. Snip the othe pin on the outer die & make sure that the trimmer/VR is set to 10K Ohms.
Do your fixed/VR mod and then just adjust from there. if your mobo lets you see what your 3.3v line is then maybe you can adjust it on the fly.
I have done that before on my Vmem IC7 mod but a safer option is to know which way to adjust for lower resistance and have the PC off & adjust a quarter turn, Boot up & check the 3.3 line and if you're going in the right direction then just keep doing the adjusting til you get what you want.
I'd say 3.5v is a safe limit but don't quote me on that.
Good Luck M8.
edit: spelling
Set the multimeter to 20v.Quote:
Originally posted by makatee
Minnyboy-
Thanks for the confirmation of what parts i need. Now i just need to know where exactly im going to measure the voltages at and how...Ive never used a multimeter and never done a volt mod. I can work a soldering iron fairly well though. Anyone else wanna help me out with that stuff?
Turn on the PSU - short the green wire and a black wire (ground)next to it in the ATX connector of your PSU. You can use a wire for or a piece of solder. Make sure the PSU's power switch is on the off position before you short the pins.
Ground the multimeter to the PSU case (see black lead on lower left corner of my pic?) and insert the other lead in the 3.3v line pin in the ATX connector. Usualy, the orange one. That's all.
I also have to recommend to NOT make any adjustments on the fly.
Malves,
Just came back from getting all 3 mods done. In the middle of changing those weak-as Antec Fans with more powerful ones from my dead Enermax 350w. Gonna test it to see if it works & then report back.
IC7-G VTT mod to be done on Monday & then getting some XMS-3500 & I'm there:banana:
Cheers for the advice M8
:toast:
edit: It's a pity my OCZ Gold 466 don't like high voltages & my A-Data DDR500 won't do any more than 544@2.5-5-4-4 mo matter what amount of volts I give it
Hey, Minnyboy
Good to hear on the mods.:) I still gotta get my lazy @ss outta the chair and do the 12v rail mod. :D
Good luck, my friend. Hope you get some crazy MHZ. ;)
ALright, well I modded the 3.3 line succesfully ( my first VOLTMOD!!!!! ) and now im goin to the 5 v and 12 v. here are my questions b4 i get started. i have a 33 ohm fixed resistor and a 10 k vr for the 5 v line, but what resistance should i set the vr to b4 i solder it and start up? also, for the 12 v line i have a 68 0hm resistor and a 10 k vr, and my same question earlier applies to this....what resistance should i set the vr to b4 soldering? thanks guys. this thread just gave some new life to a power supply that i thought sucked...:toast:
makatee,
set the resistance of your 10K Ohm VR to max resistance (10K Ohms) so that when everything has been modded, you won't get much of a rise on your lines.
Very similar to your 3.3v mod. You set your 1K Ohm VR to 1K Ohm before you started right?
Godd luck with your mods. Mine's doing really, really good m8 & I hope your's turns out just as well as mine did.
Cheers :toast:
This is good reading... glad i made it to the end before posting any questions.
I think makatee's questions and the answers everyone gave is going to make this mod easy.
I have a few questions myself though. Does it matter if you do the mod closer to the ATX connector or closer to the actual PSU case?
Also for the "ground". People keep referring to the black cables or whatever. I know in the ATX connector diagram that there are black cables that are referred to as ground.
So as a ground, can i strip the black cable and attach the ground wire from the potentiometer to this wire?
I just want to make sure this is possible before I did the mod as well.
Also, I'll be cutting the thin vsense lines correct so I can add in the resistors?
From top to bottom:
1. Doesn't matter if it's close to the ATX connector, inside the PSU, or half way between both.:)
2. Yes, you can use the PSU's ground (black) wires for your ground.
3. Yes, the sense line is the one to be modded.
shimmishim,
I actually got my friend to do the mods for me.
What I got him to do was open up my PSU & do the job inside & have the VR coming out of some gaps where the cables come out since I have to put it in my Vapo & my PSU has to mount sideways. I have double-sided taped the VR's I have so I can easily acces it.
My friend actually done the it really neat as I think that having the mods done closer to the ATX 20pin makes it a bit hard to mount the VR's without cable clutter.
I have included a pic of where I've place my VR's.
What the guy mean when they say that you can just use a black cable is just cutting the insulation of one of the black cables from the ATX 20pin connector & soldering the ground to that as the black cables you see on the 20 pin sonnectors are basically ground cables.
My M8 did it a bit differently, he actually took the PCB of the PSU out & soldered the groung to one of the ground cable soldering joints underneath the PCB of the PSU.
Ignore my writing on the VR's, I just did it so that I know which way to turn the screw on the VR to give it more volts. I did it wrong though but haven't been bothered to scrub that ink off & do it in the right direction.
Good luck with your mods M8.
edit: I used the smaller 25 turn (I think VR) as I think it is better looking..hehehehe
Looks nice man. Buy your friend a 6pack. :hehe:
THanks everyone for this great thread. I finally did the mod and now all is well and this power supply is finally worth what i paid for it....this is my first vmod!!! and it worked! :toast:
Thanks guys!
I'll be doing this mod as soon as I get back to school.
It'll be my Friday afternoon project :)
Then I'll be settin' up the prommy WOO HOO!
i can't seem to find a 36 ohm resistor on the radioshack webpage.... does anyone have the exact part number?
thanks!
and if i can't find a 36 ohm, would 47 ohm fixed resistor be okay for the 5 volt line?
thanks!
sorry i was able to find a 33 ohm resistor at radioshack.com.. i think that should suffice :)
I used a 36Ohm fiexed resistor with a 10K Ohm VR so that 33 Ohm fixed resistor should be fine.Quote:
Originally posted by shimmishim
sorry i was able to find a 33 ohm resistor at radioshack.com.. i think that should suffice :)
if u need ground, dont even need to cut any ground wire, there's several spots on the PSU pcb u can use as a ground point..
That's exactly what my frien did for me. Works beautifuly as well. if I ave the time i will open up my PSU & post some pics of what the inside of my PSU looks like. He actually soldered the ground to one of the ground points underneath the PSU.Quote:
Originally posted by Ragnarok
if u need ground, dont even need to cut any ground wire, there's several spots on the PSU pcb u can use as a ground point..
I'm wrapped that my friend didn't listen to me & persisted on his method. I gave him some old slot1 P3 mobo's as a gift for doing the mods for me. he's done my IC7-G Vmem mod, 9800pro Vgpu & Vdd mods as well as my PSU mods. He has surprised me in the quality of workmanship he has done for me.
Next up is my IC7-G VTT & 9800XT vmods.
BTW, has anyone experienced any problems when setting the 12v & 5v lines over 5.3v/12.3v? My 550w Antec TP has this prob where if I set the lines I mentioned any higher than 12.3v my PSU won't start.
Pity he doesn't drink beers, otherwise I'd shout him a few slabs.
I wasn'[t planning on cutting the ground wire. I was just going to strip a part of it so I could attach the ground wire from the VR to the black ground wire.
:)
Just strippin' it.. not cuttin' :)
:banana:
shimmishim,
I know that you weren't going to cut the "ground", as I wouldn't either.
If you do the "open PSU" method, check where one of you ATX 20pin ground leads go to & flip the PSU pcb over & solder a ground onto that.
Works good for me. Anyway you do it & it works is good so get at it m8. Good Luck while you're at it m8.
3 more days & I'll be able to test this GREAT mod out, my BH-5's are on the way.:banana: :banana:
I was kinda shattered when i bought the Antec as it would not hold it's rails like my Enermax 430w. B4 the mod, my Antec was 3.2v, 4.8v, 11.7ishV while my Enermax was 3.35v, 5.15v, 12.26v.
After the mod, I'm as happy as can be:banana: .
Was comtemplating on getting the 550w Enermax but that can wait til one of my PSU dies now. hehehehehe
thanks for the tip minnyboy!
i'll do that instead...
but all three wires should fit there right? (one ground from each volt rail)
i haven't busted open my antec yet.. i will do it this afternoon.
just finished up the mod!
looks good...
except i measured teh voltages as
3.3 --> 3.65
5 --> 5.3
12 --> 12.5
volts show up as
3.47
5.16
12.11
board to blame?
up the volts now?
thanks!
Absolutely normal, everybody's board does that. Since no electrical components are 100% efficient, some voltage is actually "lost" (converted to heat) as it zips through your motherboard's power circuit. This is the reason electrical components output heat.Quote:
Originally posted by shimmishim
just finished up the mod!
looks good...
except i measured teh voltages as
3.3 --> 3.65
5 --> 5.3
12 --> 12.5
volts show up as
3.47
5.16
12.11
board to blame?
up the volts now?
thanks!
shimmishim,
I measured my voltages with my MM & it's shows up right but through the mobo bios it loses some volts.
Better to believe what the multimeter says.
Anyways, good to see your mod turned out well.
Where'd you end up soldering the ground to?
When I opened up my PSU, I could ony see 1 ground wire for my mods. I presumed that my friend had soldered the three grounds to that 1 & then soldered it onto the back of the PSU ocb.
i ended up using the black ground cables after all...
everything works great!
except after i stuck in my new 3.0C, my board just died.. no boot or anything :(
so i gotta get a new board... but i can't figure out which one to get...
Off topic but WTF happened? Too much power? another IC7-G would be good & doesn't cost mucho for the mods.Quote:
Originally posted by shimmishim
i ended up using the black ground cables after all...
everything works great!
except after i stuck in my new 3.0C, my board just died.. no boot or anything :(
so i gotta get a new board... but i can't figure out which one to get...
Maybe PSU killing the board?
__________________________________________________ __
P.S 100 posts finally!!! Now to go into the goodies shop
i doubt it..
it booted before with my 2.4C
it was only after i switched the cpu did i start having problems...
with the hardware monitor for abit board...
3.3 --> 3.47
5.0 --> 5.16
12 --> 12.11
i setup the voltages as 3.65, 5.3, and 12.3 and measured with a multimeter.
my new voltages are:
http://www.johnshim.com/mods/psu mod.JPG
seems that lots of energy is loss between the psu and the mobo.
i tweaked the voltages a little more
3.3 --> 3.7
5 --> 5.4
12 --> 12.4
it's amazing how much it drops. oh well! thanks for the help everyone!
Yeah, it is... they should design their boards better if you ask me.
shimmishim,
Maybe the 430w Antec's are able to sustain more volts bcos my 550w Antec can't go past 12.3, 5.3 on those rails. Any higher & my PSU won't power up.
Wonder what's wrong with mine?
yeah that's very strange!
i knwo i accidently turned my 5 and 3.3 up too high and the overvolt kicked it... good stuff...
maybe the overvolt is kickin' earlier than it should? dunno... but that really stinks...
I done this mod to my antec tru430 and it seems that my 3.3 line is still low, at least as far as any software says MBM5 says 2.88 and Sandra 2003 says the same ? I modded all the lines and the 5V reads as it should at 5.30, which is where i had it modded to. Also my 12V line reads at 12.20 which is where I put it. But the 3.3V still reads at 2.88. After the mod I read it with my multimeter right off the ATX header and it read 3.60. Is the software wrong or is my mod screwed ? I used the inline resistor with a VR for all the mods. I used a 10k VR with a 68 ohm inline for the 12V line. A 22 ohm with a 10 k VR for the 5V and a 10 ohm with a 1k VR for the 3.3. It reads right on the Header but not in anything else ? Any ideas ? Or am reading it form the right place ? Thanks to everyone for all the info in this thread and thanks in advance to anyone that has an idea as to why I am getting this :toast:
Mine reads 3.4 on the atx 20 pin header but mobo monitor & in the bios my max is 3.2v.
Believe what your MM says I reckon..
edit: best to read it from the line you modded if you get my drift.
Yay thats what i trust is the multimeter but do you think maybe the sensor is just reading it wrong ? I was reading it with the meter right off the atx plug. So it has 3.6 there but all my other lines reported the change just not the 3.3 ? I guess I'll mess around a bit more and see what I can find.
Deathangel,
What mobo are you using?
Not sure if that has anything to do with it but my IC7-G is only a bit off with the readings, say under .2v off me thinks.
I got a Epox 8RDA+ Rev. 1.1, I am gonna try to find a schematic and read it with my meter straight off the mobo if possible and see what it really is reading. I think maybe just the sensor is a pos and it doesnt like 3.6 lol hopefully anyway or maybe my psu is taking a dump not sure yet.
I hope you guys can help me on an issue that has been troubling me for some time
I have a chaintech Zenith mobo that has a vdimm as high as 3,2...
...The problem is that it cannot keep a vdimm higher than 2,8...
The first thing one would suggest is that there is something wrong with the motherboard...
However, I have come to the conclusion that it takes up too much juice of the 3.3 line.
I've seen one more user having the same trouble and he partially coped with it by modding the psu...so I'm willing to do the same...or something similar...
I have an Antec 480 TRuepower psu that I can mess with...
The other solution is to buy the 550 truecontrol psu that allows an overvoltage of the 3.3 line up to 3.45-3.49...
I've read other users' posts that had the same idea as me but where disappointed by the truecontrol...
But since I have no knowledge on electronics I would like to ask for your advice on what I should do to get the board to supply the requested voltage...
...have the psu 480 modded for me
or
Buy the 550 truecontrol?
All I want is to be able to use the 3.1-3.2 vdimm
Please any idea, advice, info would be very appreciated :toast:
As long as you have a multimeter, I would recommend you just do it yourself. :)Quote:
Originally posted by vgiozo
I hope you guys can help me on an issue that has been troubling me for some time
I have a chaintech Zenith mobo that has a vdimm as high as 3,2...
...The problem is that it cannot keep a vdimm higher than 2,8...
The first thing one would suggest is that there is something wrong with the motherboard...
However, I have come to the conclusion that it takes up too much juice of the 3.3 line.
I've seen one more user having the same trouble and he partially coped with it by modding the psu...so I'm willing to do the same...or something similar...
I have an Antec 480 TRuepower psu that I can mess with...
The other solution is to buy the 550 truecontrol psu that allows an overvoltage of the 3.3 line up to 3.45-3.49...
I've read other users' posts that had the same idea as me but where disappointed by the truecontrol...
But since I have no knowledge on electronics I would like to ask for your advice on what I should do to get the board to supply the requested voltage...
...have the psu 480 modded for me
or
Buy the 550 truecontrol?
All I want is to be able to use the 3.1-3.2 vdimm
Please any idea, advice, info would be very appreciated :toast:
Step by step guide:
1) Go to local electronics store and get a 30 or 60 ohm (or anywhere in between) fixed resistor and a 1k (1k = 1000) ohm variable resistor.
2) Come home, locate the 3.3v line (usually orange) and cut the sense line (the thinnest wire of the three) from the same socket in the ATX connector (top left)
3) Solder your 30 to 60ohm fixed resistor between the points of the sense line you cut.
4) Solder a wire from one of the sides of the fixed resistor to the front leg (the "front" has the circular adjuster) of the 1K variable resistor. Solder the middle leg
5) Power up by jumpstarting PSU and check your 3.3v line (using multimeter). Turn VR as necessary until you reach desired voltage.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. As long as you have the proper equipment (multimeter, soldering iron, and those two resistors), it will be no problem.
:toast:
PS: If you don't have that stuff, or you just feel really antsy about doing it, I can do it for you for free (but you pay shipping ;)).
Use a digital multimeter and monitor the 3.3v rail under load and such to see if the PSU is faltering or the motherboard itself.
Thank you both for your replies, this voltage problem has been giving me headache...
I guess I should have done that first to clear out if the board or psu is at fault...Quote:
Use a digital multimeter and monitor the 3.3v rail under load and such to see if the PSU is faltering or the motherboard itself.
but I got a little lazy and just thought that it might be a combination of both...the psu not supplying enough volt for this power-hungry board and the board's average power circuit
Ok were do you live? :DQuote:
If you don't have that stuff, or you just feel really antsy about doing it, I can do it for you for free (but you pay shipping
Actually I can find people here to do it for me (but I wouldn't mind getting my hands dirty on a 400w Q-tec - it shall have an eroic death)
that's my best part of the guide, I wouldn't like to do the mod out on the streets :toast:Quote:
2) Come home, locate the 3.3v line (usually orange)
Right now I'm missing the soldering iron and the multimeter to get things started...
I've almost made up my mind to mod the psu, but first I would like to hear your opinion, from your experience, whether the 550 truecontrol will do the job...
I understand that for you modding can be fun and a learning experience, but for me that I'm not much into technology, however interesting it sounds - as has been my experience so far with computers - I just want to keep the modding solution as a last resort just in case something goes wrong
So judging from your experience, could the 550 truecontrol at 100% give me my precious vdimm options?
I'll have to measure 3.3 rail first to see what's up and give you some ground on which you can make an estimation of the specific situation, but of course I'd be very glad to hear (err...read) your opinion in the meantime...
so these are the proper values, correct?
12 volt = 10k vr 68ohm fixed
5 volt = 5k vr 30ohm fixed
3 volt = 1k vr 10ohm fixed
and all you have to do is cut the appropriate sense wires and solder the fixed resistor inline and then solder one leg of the vr to one of the legs of the fixed resistor (doesnt matter which one) and then solder the other leg to a black wire for ground. This will leave one leg of the vr unused, correct? does it matter which leg?
thx
I found using a 1k on the 3.3 and 5k on the 5v was overkill...
500 ohm and 2K for 3.3 and 5 respectively would probably work much better.... and 5k on the 12v.
stick with 1k/5k/10k for 3.3/5/12 though since nobody has tried 500 ohm/1k/5k yet.. could kill the PSU.
Also, use the same legs on each variable resistor so you dont have to turn each one in the opposite direction to increase the voltage. The middle pin is the one that should be used for the ground.
Put them on the outside of the PSU so all you have to do is pop off the side of your case and then you can turn them..
I put mine on the wrong side fo the PSU case when I was doing this though, lol :D
Thats exactlly how I do my psu mods as well STEvil.
Best plae for them is mounted on the psu housing IMHO.
alright im gonna try this mod today or tommorrow, depending on what time i get out of here (at my fathers work). It "should" be safe to get the lines to as follows, right:
12v @ 12.3
5v @ 5.3
3.3v @ 3.5
That should be good, right? How high can I go while being reasonably sure that this thing won't fry my system until the 3rd of 4th quarter of this year when prescott matures? I know nothing is guaranteed, but still....Whats the benefit of going higher on the 12v line, vcore stabilazation? I know the 3.3 is vdimm, the 5v line's benefit is increased Radeon voltage stability, but what's the 12v lines? Thanks.
If I'm right, your Antec won't power up if you take it too far.. Better to jumpstart it without it hooked up to any components to check your lines...Quote:
Originally posted by computerpro3
It "should" be safe to get the lines to as follows, right:
12v @ 12.3
5v @ 5.3
3.3v @ 3.5
That should be good, right?
My 550w TP won't power up if I try anything over 12.2v or 5.2v.. Auto shut-off feature me thinks...
As for my 3.3v line, I've got it up to 3.51v w/out the auto shut-off feature kicking in. Damn I hate that BS feature...
I wanted exactly the same adjustments as you... Pity the darn thing shuts off... Oh well, at least it didn't blow up like my Enermax 350w & Topower 520 (w/out mods...)
really, the antec won't power up with just .3 over the lines?!! Thats bs...And yea I am definetly going to jumpstart it first, just wanted to know if those voltages were good for everyday operation.
Thats odd, try disconnection the sence wire from the ATX connector.Quote:
Originally posted by Minnyboy
If I'm right, your Antec won't power up if you take it too far.. Better to jumpstart it without it hooked up to any components to check your lines...
My 550w TP won't power up if I try anything over 12.2v or 5.2v.. Auto shut-off feature me thinks...
As for my 3.3v line, I've got it up to 3.51v w/out the auto shut-off feature kicking in. Damn I hate that BS feature...
I wanted exactly the same adjustments as you... Pity the darn thing shuts off... Oh well, at least it didn't blow up like my Enermax 350w & Topower 520 (w/out mods...)
I wouldn't count on that, theres so much different §§§§ that goes on this PSU modding besiness. I like to go 3.3@3.5V, 5V@5.25, 12@12.25-12.75.Quote:
really, the antec won't power up with just .3 over the lines?!! Thats bs...And yea I am definetly going to jumpstart it first, just wanted to know if those voltages were good for everyday operation.
Most of the time it will offer atvatages of the stock ouputs, but it can't hurt (just kidding about the "it cant hurt" but if you carefull most of the time it will be all good.
How to do that? Cut the darn thing??? Don't really wanna cut any wires other than the volt mods... Would I have to remove my mods??? Just cut it near the ATX connector???Quote:
Originally posted by CSOFT
Thats odd, try disconnection the sence wire from the ATX connector.
I'm at a loss with your method, if I cut the sense wires for my 5v & 12v, then will my vio mods for them still work???
The overvoltage protection whatever kicks in really early for me....
My Enermax 430w is rock solid w/out any mods... 3.35v, 5.15v, 12.2v...
With the Antec, if I turn the VR 1mm after it hits 12.2v & try to jumpstart the thing, the damn thing won't start...
TIA
i did the 12v mod with a 68ohm fixed and a 10k 15turn trimpot and no matter how much i turn the pots, the voltage doesnt go lower and higher?!?! what gives?
Silly question but did you follow the guides properly?Quote:
Originally posted by computerpro3
i did the 12v mod with a 68ohm fixed and a 10k 15turn trimpot and no matter how much i turn the pots, the voltage doesnt go lower and higher?!?! what gives?
That's the only thing I can think of for your mod not working...
Did you ground it to a good place?
I had mine grounded under the PSU PCB on one of the ground wires.
sigh...yea and i also did it to the 5v and 3.3v lines. worked great for those. So i adjust the 5 to 5.2, the 3.3 to 3.5, go to the bathroom, and go to work on the 12. I turn the trimpot, and its still not changing. I keep turning. All the sudden, the psu shuts off. I'm like, wtf? I look at it more carefully, and it was the friggen 3.3v line. I set the resistance to 0 by accident, sending who knows how many volts through the 3.3v line. the thing will not turn back on now. I think i fried my psu. So much for overvolt protection :rolleyes: :( :eek: :mad: :confused:
quote from newegg's specs for the trupower 430
Over Voltage Protection: +5V trip point @+6.5V;+3.3V trip point @+4.1V;+12V trip point @+14.4V
does this mean its not fried because it should have shut off at 4.1v? Whats the max possible volts i put through this with a 10 ohm fixed resistor and the vr set to 0?
Okay, I think you farked it good:eek:Quote:
Originally posted by computerpro3
So much for overvolt protection
Over Voltage Protection: +5V trip point @+6.5V;+3.3V trip point @+4.1V;+12V trip point @+14.4V
Whats the max possible volts i put through this with a 10 ohm fixed resistor and the vr set to 0?
This is what I'd try to do in your situation...
1.) Ripp/unsolder the resistor & VR.
2.) If you've taken the mods off, temporarily reconnect the sense wire together & try & jumpstart your PSU & pray to the almighty eXtreme Sickness GOD that the thing fires up.
Can you explain it a bit more? I'm not sure whether you had the PC running & then adjusted(?) the VR on the fly. If you adjusted it while the PSU/PC was off & then tried to power up your rig, the overvolt protection BS would kick in & maybe save your PSU from becoming a messy/heavy/awkward paperweight....
If my resolution works (I'm praying for ya too) then you can use a multimeter to set your 1K Ohm VR to roughly 220-300 Ohms & re-do the mod. I suggest starting with 220 Ohms first though.
If all else fails...I heard that the Fortron 520w(?) PSU is excellent...No need to do any vio mods as I'm sure that they have some pots inside the PSU that you can adjust....
Wish I could get one here in AUS...The best one I can get (dearest as well) is the Enermax 550w PSU...
Anyways, I hope this works out well for you. I remember turning the 12v or 5v a bit too high& my PSU would not start up. That over-protection does help a bit...I hope it helps a lot in your case....
GOOD LUCK....
edit: Let me know how you go ok?