How to volt mod IC7 Vmem

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06-27-2003, 11:59 AM
NyCUndaGrounD

1 more question guys can i use a 10k pot instead of a 1k pot so i wont need to go out and buy again.

Quote:

Originally posted by Vatt
I can't get the resistor off the board. How long do you guys heat it up? When I take off the soldering iron, the solder immediately hardens again and the resistor is again stuck.
Did you use pliers or something?

Also putting a wick against the side doesn't do anything for me. It doesn't suck op the soldering or anything.

And does someone have a picture how it is supposed to look after having taken off the resistor, but before soldering something new to it? So, a picture off the clean pads...?

At first i was just heating the metal off with no wick or soldering vaccum. I tried to use a q-tip to asorb the heated material. I finally got tired of it and used a small screwedriver to break the top of the resistor. Then it gradually fell apart andi had perfect contact pads. I wouldnt recommend you using my technique.
:toast:
06-27-2003, 08:13 PM
runmc

I did the mod and tried three different resistors. 330 - 390 - 470 ohms

I had vdimm volts up to 3.2v but I still couldn't raise fsb past 277.

I pulled my n/b fan off and put AS3 on it on the hs. I was able to run the first test of 03 at 280fsb. That 3.9 on my 2.8

I decided to w/c the n/b.

I got one of the D-tek chipset blocks and put it on tonight. I haven.t got the water hooked up yet. Maybe tomorrow.

I soldered my wires to the mobo so I could change resistor out easily.

I mounted the chipset block with homemade brackets. donebalp invented the brackets, i merely coppied his.

I don't want to hook the chiller up to the chipset right now. I fighting one hell of a battle with the condesation as is.:(

http://home.attbi.com/~rbmccall2000/...8/site1455.jpg
06-28-2003, 06:32 AM
Tedinde

Quote:

Will a 10k pot 15-turn be alright for this mod

That's what im using, the small radio shack blue one's.
06-28-2003, 06:40 AM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by Tedinde
That's what im using, the small radio shack blue one's.

It works no doubt, it's just that you are only ever really going to use the range from 0 - 1K, which I'm sure you'll agree won't give you adjustments as fine a as 1K pot will, since each turn of a 15 turn 10K pot equates ~ 600 Ohm cf to ~ 60 Ohm of a 1 K pot.
06-28-2003, 07:40 PM
HWF

Vatt

Let the tip of the soldering iron pre heat the wick. Then breifly touch both sides of the resistor, just lond enough to melt the solder the wick should get most of it..

Now you won't be able to remove the solder totally but you can now place the iron on the side of the resistor and verrry(not a typo) gently push while its heating and the resistor will move.

You should have 2 very shiny spots where the resistor was. This is where you attach the pot for the vdimm adjust.
06-29-2003, 10:15 AM
Vatt

Yesssssss,

I did the Vddr mod! Oh man, this was my ever first mod and soldering job I ever did. That R50 resistor is tiny!
I used a tweezer (good english word?) to get hold of the R50 resistor and used some wick also.

One side came off absolutely beautifull, the other side was not so nice.

Then I soldered two wires to these incredible tiny spots and I was very nervous, being my first mod and all.
The wires are in place, but it sure is fragile. I'll bet that with a few touches the wires will come off again...

Anyways, I set the pot to 300 Ohms and put it next to IDE2 port. There was room for it, so I used some sealstring from the Prometeia to stick it to its place.

I started up, and it worked... :banana: :banana: :banana:
I have gained now 0.15v
So setting it to 2.8 will give me 2.95v
I can turn the pot clockwise and Ohm will increase and so will the Vddr.

Thanks to all the guys who shared this info with us :toast: :toast:

This is great... I will now begin vmodding everything I have starting with my Radeon 9800 :D :D :D

Some pics: (I probably used too much wire)
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rvat/vmod/vmod.jpg

http://www.xs4all.nl/~rvat/vmod/vmod_2.jpg

/edit: UPDATE
I have turned some more on the potmeter so it now gives me 0.25v more.
Now when set in BIOS to 2.7 this is what I got:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rvat/vmod/mbm5_vmod.gif
So when setting to 2.8 I will get 3.05v and that's great.
06-29-2003, 12:33 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

Vatt, Excellent job man, im goin to the mod with a pot now. Ill update u guys on if i fugger up my board.
06-29-2003, 02:18 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

1 Attachment(s)

Ok guys i tried the mod with a 10k pot-15 turn. Center pin of the pot goes to the pad closet to the winbond chip. The pin at the top goes to the other pad. I tried booting but no bios and nothing on screen. Should i be turning the pot adjustment screw. I did not adjust the screw head. What can be the problem.
06-29-2003, 03:13 PM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Ok guys i tried the mod with a 10k pot-15 turn. Center pin of the pot goes to the pad closet to the winbond chip. The pin at the top goes to the other pad. I tried booting but no bios and nothing on screen. Should i be turning the pot adjustment screw. I did not adjust the screw head. What can be the problem.

NyCUndaGrounD,

You have missed a vital step in this mod.

One of the 1st things you do is adjust the pot to 300 ohms !!!

If you had continuity between the pot and the board, then I'm afraid you have just put 5000 ohms worth of voltage through your Ram (is there vdimm regulation that limits the max vdimm??). Why 5000 ohms you ask ? Well afaik pots come from the factory adjusted to 1/2 of its max resistance and in your case 1/2 of 10K is 5K.

This is one reason why I advocated a 1k pot because even if you'd missed the vital step as I've pointed out then at worse you would have put 500 ohms of voltage through your ram, and these I believe are would be well within 3.2v vdimm.

Remove one of the legs from the board, adjust pot to 300 ohms and re-solder that leg to the board and hope that your ram and board is ok.
06-29-2003, 05:12 PM
Charles Wirth

Yep, make sure the VR is set as well as had the bios already set to the lowest setting. make sure you have the solder conacts perfect too.

My ATX power connector has been having a problem, and prevents my system from booting from time to time. I have to unplug it and plug it back it back in for my system to boot. seems strange but worth a try.
06-29-2003, 06:25 PM
LikwidKool

Man I want to do this so bad. I only have an 8RDA+ vdd mod under my belt as soldering experience, but that board was under $100. I just don't know if I am prepared to flush $160 down the drain atm. Just no money to replace burnt hardware. I am loving this setup and would have to wait a while if I f'ed this up. I am not so woriied about soldering the resistor on as I am worried about getting R50 off and fuggering up the pad's. I really don't want to put my amd stuff back togther!;)

Man I might just have to take the shot. I need more vdimm!! I feel like a crack head trying to score!:o

BTW guy's thanks for the step by step instructions.
06-29-2003, 07:10 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

Thanks guys, i guess ill go to my local radioshack tommorrow. I have more free time now since off from college. This should be the life.
06-30-2003, 01:56 PM
LikwidKool

ohohohoh! VMEM GOODNESS! I love you guy's!!

Just booted up after preforming this mod, and to my delight everything worked! I still need to dial the resisotr a little. I am at 2.7 right now, which is giving me 2.8 I had set the resistor for 300 ohms.

I tell you though it took forever to get r50 off. I was so worried about melting the pad's. I had gone out and picked up a 15/30 Soldering Iron from Rat Shack cause I thought my other one might be too hot. I am just so glad everything worked, cause I really didn't want to put my amd rig back together. Intel has brainwashed me!

Thanks again guy's.
06-30-2003, 05:55 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

1 Attachment(s)

Yes i finally finished it. Got a 1k Pot from Radio Shack and im very happy with the results. I get 2.99 volts when i select 2.5v in bios.
i think i should lower the pot to a safer volatge ratio.

:toast:
06-30-2003, 05:57 PM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Yes i finally finished it. Got a 1k Pot from Radio Shack and im very happy with the results. I get 2.99 volts when i select 2.5v in bios.
i think i should lower the pot to a safer volatge ratio.

:toast:

WTG :thumbsup:

I'm glad it worked out for you !!
06-30-2003, 06:11 PM
LikwidKool

hmm. I turned the pot up some and when at 2.8 I was getting 3.05 but it was really squirly. Funny thing is I turned it down about a 1/4 turn and I was getting the same reading, and is still abit squirly. Maybe that is the max vddr I can get?
06-30-2003, 07:39 PM
HWF

It would be great if some of the pro's could post some pics of the Vtt mod.:banana:
07-01-2003, 04:59 AM
Kin Hell

Quote:

Originally posted by LikwidKool
hmm. I turned the pot up some and when at 2.8 I was getting 3.05 but it was really squirly. Funny thing is I turned it down about a 1/4 turn and I was getting the same reading, and is still abit squirly. Maybe that is the max vddr I can get?

wtf is "squirly" m8?

Just asking cos like another chap in here, I couldnt get the Mod to work. :confused:

Having said that, I am making further investigations (edit* my multiMeter may be fugged), as I`m sure PitaNorf would like to know! He's costing me a fortune in beer! :D

Congrats on your success for doing your MOD, but I'd like to ask what FSB increase you have got from your 3500 Mem for giving it an extra .2v over Stock max?

Pls expand your dedscription of "squirly" tho,....dying to know! :hehe:
07-01-2003, 07:26 AM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by Kin Hell
wtf is "squirly" m8?

Just asking cos like another chap in here, I couldnt get the Mod to work. :confused:

Having said that, I am making further investigations (edit* my multiMeter may be fugged), as I`m sure PitaNorf would like to know! He's costing me a fortune in beer! :D

Congrats on your success for doing your MOD, but I'd like to ask what FSB increase you have got from your 3500 Mem for giving it an extra .2v over Stock max?

Pls expand your dedscription of "squirly" tho,....dying to know! :hehe:

I can have a stab it it....maybe he means that his voltages are fluctuating ?

Yeah Kin Hell m8 I'm puzzeled as to why your mod has'nt worked, I feel a little guilty getting you to order those pots only for it not to work.

Anyways lets hope your multimeter was fuxored and you get the little bugger to fire up with the mod in place. :)

Good luck and may the overclock gods shine on your board :D
07-01-2003, 08:51 AM
Kin Hell

Quote:

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
I can have a stab it it....maybe he means that his voltages are fluctuating ?

Yeah Kin Hell m8 I'm puzzeled as to why your mod has'nt worked, I feel a little guilty getting you to order those pots only for it not to work.

Anyways lets hope your multimeter was fuxored and you get the little bugger to fire up with the mod in place. :)

Good luck and may the overclock gods shine on your board :D

I'm only going on feelings atm m8. I guess I'd guess myself as being a pretty "Logical" type of a chap, so...I'm gonna be sure my meter is registerin right by setting the Cerement pot and whipping it round to a place that do circuit board work. Just to explain the need for this, I bought the Meter back in 1980. Was at college then, U can Gesticulate the rest ureselves! :D

So,...there could be a pretty good chance "Old Faithful" could be fuggin' me! :stick:

gonna check it out tommorow hopefully. Will let u know soon!

Cheers bud! :cool:
07-01-2003, 04:42 PM
LikwidKool

sorry Kin hell. Squirly was supposed to mean fluctuating. My bad!
Also I have not had time yet to test in 1:1 ratio. I tried to see how hi it would go 5:4 but it seems I am at the end of my 2.4c's legs at 289fsb. I need to try some things out. I could only get 285 before, so the mod did help a bit.
07-01-2003, 11:34 PM
Kin Hell

Quote:

Originally posted by LikwidKool
sorry Kin hell. Squirly was supposed to mean fluctuating. My bad!
Also I have not had time yet to test in 1:1 ratio. I tried to see how hi it would go 5:4 but it seems I am at the end of my 2.4c's legs at 289fsb. I need to try some things out. I could only get 285 before, so the mod did help a bit.

No need to be sorry dude but thanks! :)

Also, have you Modded ure NorthBridge? A decent Heatsink & Fan with some Artic3 could allow you to go further still.

Good luck!;)
07-02-2003, 07:54 AM
LikwidKool

Yeah I have a Zalman heatsink with the stock fan on top with AS3 underneath. I just need a day off to do some more oc'ing. I will post results when I have them.
07-02-2003, 10:06 PM
MnM

Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.
07-03-2003, 12:10 PM
Kin Hell

Quote:

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

http://www.charlesleach.fsworld.co.uk/Pics/jawdrop.gif
07-03-2003, 09:27 PM
DDA

Quote:

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

2 x 331 Ohms in parallel make 165 Ohms abt ....
07-04-2003, 03:53 AM
Kin Hell

Quote:

Originally posted by DDA
2 x 331 Ohms in parallel make 165 Ohms abt ....

Sure, and if they were in Series 662 Ohms,...but summat aint adding up with this board and how the VDIMM is controlled.
Of all the boards I have ever modded for Voltages, I have not yet seen one give you more Voltage as you increase the Resistance. Then along came the IC7-G..........................

Then there is the anomally of the Mod not working for some of us. I've tried 3 diff VR's without success...board dead everytime.

Something isnt quite right here! :confused:
07-04-2003, 03:59 AM
DDA

Quote:

Originally posted by Kin Hell

Something isnt quite right here! :confused:

I agree with you ....
07-04-2003, 07:31 AM
NyCUndaGrounD

Quote:

Originally posted by Kin Hell
Sure, and if they were in Series 662 Ohms,...but summat aint adding up with this board and how the VDIMM is controlled.
Of all the boards I have ever modded for Voltages, I have not yet seen one give you more Voltage as you increase the Resistance. Then along came the IC7-G..........................

Then there is the anomally of the Mod not working for some of us. I've tried 3 diff VR's without success...board dead everytime.

Something isnt quite right here! :confused:

Are u sure u didnt burn the pads out of recognition. i burned the resistor next to the R50 beyond recognition and it still works!LOL.
When i see the pads disappearing i add a bit more solder onto it to keep it alive.
07-04-2003, 07:34 AM
Kin Hell

Quote:

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
Are u sure u didnt burn the pads out of recognition. i burned the resistor next to the R50 beyond recognition and it still works!LOL.
When i see the pads disappearing i add a bit more solder onto it to keep it alive.

I wouldnt have thought so considering the "0 Ohm"resistor is in place atm & thats been resoldered back to the board 3 times now! I didnt scorch the Res. next to it either but the 0 Ohm Res. has about half of one of its original three zeros. So I guess that pup has gotten a tad warm!

A 15Watt Iron & suitable tip with the all important "steady-hand" should not have scorched the Res. next to R50. Your a tad lucky there m8! ;)
07-05-2003, 02:28 AM
Kin Hell

VTT Voltage?

This is really aimed at anyone that might have done this Mod, but, having done the VDIMM Mod 3 times & get NO post on each occasion, I did wonder if the VTT might be the root cause of NO Post.

I only ask this as when I set my VDIMM @ 2.8v, Hardware Doc has alsrm bells ringing telling me my VTT is out of range (too high)

As im increasing the VDIMM with the 1K VR, I did wonder if that would exaberate the VTT issue I see & therefore render me a NO Post scenario!?

MnM discovered that adding another Res. in Parallel lessend the VDIMM available, but at the same time, would not have pushed the VTT quite as high as was prolly happening with a NO Post with just 1 x 330Ohm Res.

Whatchya think lads?

Beers all around again! :toast:
07-05-2003, 03:34 AM
tome

Hi,

I just tried the mod using a 1k pot this morning. Thereby I removed the R50 resistor by accident (or using two left hands). Now the resistor is off but there is nothing left where I can solder the two wires coming from the 1k pot. Maybe I also removed successfully the contacts of the boards. :(

Any chance to avoid scrapping the board? Maybe using the 4th leg of the winbond and mass from the mosfet nearby (as posted earlier)?

Greetz tome
07-05-2003, 03:36 AM
Pita^Norf

Re: VTT Voltage?

Quote:

Originally posted by Kin Hell
This is really aimed at anyone that might have done this Mod, but, having done the VDIMM Mod 3 times & get NO post on each occasion, I did wonder if the VTT might be the root cause of NO Post.

I only ask this as when I set my VDIMM @ 2.8v, Hardware Doc has alsrm bells ringing telling me my VTT is out of range (too high)

As im increasing the VDIMM with the 1K VR, I did wonder if that would exaberate the VTT issue I see & therefore render me a NO Post scenario!?

MnM discovered that adding another Res. in Parallel lessend the VDIMM available, but at the same time, would not have pushed the VTT quite as high as was prolly happening with a NO Post with just 1 x 330Ohm Res.

Whatchya think lads?

Beers all around again! :toast:

It is interesting that MnM after effectively halving his resistance across r50 that the the board decides to boot up, this brings me to think if you started your resistance at say 100 ohms rather than the 300 would you have a working board now albeit with lower increase to Vdimm than desired?

Now I don't know really enough about VTT, but should this usually be set to about 1/2 of Vdimm as with most boards and is used to stabalise the Vdimm ?

If your board is telling you that VTT is out of range then it could possibly be the case that the VTT levels are'nt enough to stabalise the Vdimm you are trying to run and thus a no boot ?
07-05-2003, 04:49 AM
Kin Hell

Re: Re: VTT Voltage?

Quote:

Originally posted by Pita^Norf
It is interesting that MnM after effectively halving his resistance across r50 that the the board decides to boot up, this brings me to think if you started your resistance at say 100 ohms rather than the 300 would you have a working board now albeit with lower increase to Vdimm than desired?

Now I don't know really enough about VTT, but should this usually be set to about 1/2 of Vdimm as with most boards and is used to stabalise the Vdimm ?

If your board is telling you that VTT is out of range then it could possibly be the case that the VTT levels are'nt enough to stabalise the Vdimm you are trying to run and thus a no boot ?

I dont have the kit to VTT mod & tbh, after thinking i'd fugged meh board 3 times & when u consider it appears to be ok for some but not for others, I'm kinda wonderin if it's really worth pursuing. ........Especially with the fact we are Increasing Resistance to Increase Voltage. Strictly speaking, thats total fubar against Electronic basics. :down:
Perhaps i`m better off just buying OCZ- GOLD and having done with it but then the wallet is fugged real bad atm.:(
07-09-2003, 10:14 AM
crotale

Why not try to post at 0 ohms..? Then it _should_ post...
Then upping it while monitoring the bios...

Question: What will happen if the resistance is completely removed? ("infinite" resistance)
07-09-2003, 11:50 AM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by crotale
Why not try to post at 0 ohms..? Then it _should_ post...
Then upping it while monitoring the bios...

The r50 is more or less at 0 ohms...last time I measure it was between 0 and 1 ohm.

Quote:

Originally posted by crotale

Question: What will happen if the resistance is completely removed? ("infinite" resistance)

Infinate resistance is the opposite of zero, so to be at zero & infinity at the same time is not possible.

If what you ask is what happens if we replace R50 with infinite resitance, then thats an unknown? My guess is that there must be a limit that the Winbond chip will take and will not boot if this is exceeded, I think Nycunderground may have dumped 5k ohms across r50 pads and got a no boot.
07-09-2003, 12:12 PM
eva2000

Quote:

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.

nice MnM, would love to do this mod on my IC7 but never held a soldering iron in my life and have no clue :o
07-09-2003, 03:18 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

I was wondering if it was possible to adjust the pot's knob while the computer is running?
07-09-2003, 03:40 PM
Vatt

Yes, that is what I did.

I started MotherBoard Monitor and adjusted the pot untill I read 3.1v on the DIMM's
07-09-2003, 05:03 PM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
I was wondering if it was possible to adjust the pot's knob while the computer is running?

It may be ok, but certainly not something I would advise.

I'd rather shut down properly than risk killing a board.
07-10-2003, 07:33 AM
crotale

ok, I just went to a guy who maybe could do the mod...

To tell the truth: I was SCARED SH1TLESS!!! He was more shaky than my grandma'!
"Ooops, one pad almost got detached"
GHAAAA!!!

Well, I'm gonna try it now... I got a poor 1.6A and some cheap 256 stick laying around...

Pita^Norf: The resistor is a 0 ohm... Increasing the resistance will increase vdimm. Removing the the resistor equals infinite resistance... What happens then, that is my question...

What is the upper limit of the winbond chip on the vdimm?
07-10-2003, 12:26 PM
Vatt

Quote:

Originally posted by HWF
It would be great if some of the pro's could post some pics of the Vtt mod.:banana:

Yes, I think that is what I need also.

Let me explain: ;)

My XMS3500 needs 3.0v for DDR466 2-2-2-5

I set in BIOS Vdimm at 2.8 and turned the pot untill I got 3.0v
Everything is stable and working perfectly.

Now, let's say I put in BIOS only 2.7v and turn the pot more so I ALSO get 3.0v. It SHOULD be stable... because 3.0v is enough for the XMS3500 and proven to work.

BUT.. it is not stable. Both times I have 3.0v , but the difference is in VTT.
With 2.8 in BIOS --> VTT is 1.4 and all stable
With 2.7 in BIOS --> VTT is 1.35 and UNSTABLE

I hope it's all clear to you all, what I mean ;) ...

Now, I THINK that by increasing Vtt I will be able to higher overclock. I have come to FSB 282 and 5:4 divider, but even 3.2v on the XMS3500 doesn't get me any higher. It just freezes, and even in memtest (DOS based) it just freezes.

With SETFSB I can gain about 3 MHZ in windows but anything higher than 285 (5:4) is a big no no...

Please help me doing this Vtt mod. I have read on page 1 about the mod , but it's not very clear to me....
07-10-2003, 06:07 PM
[SLC]Tachyon

OK- got a 15W soldering iron, rosin solder, but I could only find a 10k pot.

My uncle does soldering on a regular basis- so he's coming over tomorrow to do the solderwork.

What should I set the 10k Radioshack Cermet Resistor to? Can I start it @ 0 (same as if the 0 Ohm resistor was there) and slowly crank it upwards, watching the voltage rise to where I need it in the BIOS?

TIA
07-10-2003, 11:58 PM
hipro5

OK.........I'll post photos(as soon as I get my friends digicam once again) with Vmem(not the "style" we are talking about here) , VTT , Vagp (too difficult Modd) and Vchip(Vdd)..........

VTT , Vchip(Vdd) and Vagp needs some traces to be cut.............
07-11-2003, 03:19 AM
crotale

Woohoo, it works!
But I was really scary, my IC7 didn't like be installed barebone.. (?) I've been having that trouble before... Does it have something to do with the grounding?
Anyway, it's in a case now, working really nice!

Quote:

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
What should I set the 10k Radioshack Cermet Resistor to? Can I start it @ 0 (same as if the 0 Ohm resistor was there) and slowly crank it upwards, watching the voltage rise to where I need it in the BIOS?

That's what I did, works fine.
Double check to make sure you got a low resistance to start with, I don't really know what happens with alot of resistance, and I've asked here, but no one have replied to that yet...

BTW, I have a 22-turn vr, and even then it doesn't take much to adjust it, be careful!
07-11-2003, 01:04 PM
[SLC]Tachyon

OK, we removed the R50 resistor *perfectly*- solder pads were in perfect condition.

*BUT*- when trying to attatch one of the wires to the top solder pad- it took a few attemps and in the process it seems we have melted the solder pad off.

Now is there any way in hell we can correct this? Can we just drop some solder onto where that pad was and will it be usable? how bout using some conductive paint and tehn just glueing the wires to the solder pads????

Any help appreciated!!!
07-11-2003, 02:52 PM
Vatt

Hi,
excuse my English, I have just been to our town carnaval, and had a few to many :toast: :toast:

Even if you f*ck up the pads, it seems you can still use the legs on the chip.

It is in this very thread , it seems that an xtreme member has found the way to make it work.
(ofcourse you will only need it when you habe FUBAR'ed the original pads.)
I will find the exact post and edit it into this message,

Boy, it's difficult to type when you've had a few to many beers... :D :toast:
07-11-2003, 04:33 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

Quote:

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
OK, we removed the R50 resistor *perfectly*- solder pads were in perfect condition.

*BUT*- when trying to attatch one of the wires to the top solder pad- it took a few attemps and in the process it seems we have melted the solder pad off.

Now is there any way in hell we can correct this? Can we just drop some solder onto where that pad was and will it be usable? how bout using some conductive paint and tehn just glueing the wires to the solder pads????

Any help appreciated!!!

I have fuggered up the pads too myself, and u can try adding some solder to the pads to revive it. That helped me save my board.
07-11-2003, 05:07 PM
[SLC]Tachyon

Quote:

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
I have fuggered up the pads too myself, and u can try adding some solder to the pads to revive it. That helped me save my board.

The problem is- that for the top pad- there really is no pad there at all anymore. All I can see is the PCB- no metal is left there whatsoever. :/
07-11-2003, 05:40 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

1 Attachment(s)

O in that case u might be screwed............... I mean even if the pads are gone there is still some kind of metal contact there in that space.

In my pic, there should be some kind of contact, if not how would the board get information from those contact pads.
07-11-2003, 05:59 PM
[SLC]Tachyon

Quote:

Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
O in that case u might be screwed............... I mean even if the pads are gone there is still some kind of metal contact there in that space.

In my pic, there should be some kind of contact, if not how would the board get information from those contact pads.

There's NOTHING where the pad was right now- just black PCB. :(

We accidently had ripped up the trace when the pad went away- and I am unable to locate the end of the trace at all. :(

I put a few drops of conductive window defogger paint where the pad was- put one needle there and the other on the good pad- and ther was no change on the multimeter (should there be really?).

I just PM'ed the mod that found a workaround on the IS7 after he accidently destroyed his solder pads- I'm hoping that this mod will work for me also.
07-11-2003, 09:28 PM
tome

Hi,

I tried this work around figured out by Tedlinde, meaning solder one wire to the fourth leg of the winbond chip and the other one to ground. Now the system starts but there is no beep and the monitor remains black. On page two of this thread there some pics that show how do it. Good luck.

tome
07-11-2003, 11:35 PM
[SLC]Tachyon

Quote:

Originally posted by tome
Hi,

I tried this work around figured out by Tedlinde, meaning solder one wire to the fourth leg of the winbond chip and the other one to ground. Now the system starts but there is no beep and the monitor remains black. On page two of this thread there some pics that show how do it. Good luck.

tome

Do you have a resistor on that wire?
07-12-2003, 01:40 AM
tome

Quote:

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
Do you have a resistor on that wire?

Yes, a 1 kOhm VR. I tried with 0 Ohm and with 330 Ohm but the board stops booting as described above. Maybe I burned anything else near the R50 pads. I can send you pictures if you give your email.

tome
07-12-2003, 07:20 AM
[SLC]Tachyon

Quote:

Originally posted by tome
Yes, a 1 kOhm VR. I tried with 0 Ohm and with 330 Ohm but the board stops booting as described above. Maybe I burned anything else near the R50 pads. I can send you pictures if you give your email.

tome

I'd *greatly* appreciate pics- my email is Asmith9604@aol.com
07-12-2003, 08:23 AM
tome

Quote:

Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
I'd *greatly* appreciate pics- my email is Asmith9604@aol.com

Pics sent.

tome
07-12-2003, 01:10 PM
[SLC]Tachyon

Quote:

Originally posted by tome
Pics sent.

tome

Thanks for the pics

One more question though- is there any specific MOSFET/leg of a MOSFET that I should solder the wire too?

And to confirm once again, the setup should go:

4th Leg of the Winbond Chip ---> resistor ---> MOSFET

Right?

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

I've just spent at least an hour trying to get a wire onto that leg- with the combination of a shaky hand and poor eyesight I can't get it on.

I can touch the end of the wire onto the 4th leg- but I can't get it to stay. Using hot glue actually moves it over, and i know moving it over = useless mod. :(

How about SMD grabbers? Anyone aware if there are any small enough to grab a leg on the Winbond chip?
07-12-2003, 10:16 PM
tome

4th Winbond leg -> VR resistor -> screw hole (ground) this is what a colleague did for me.

So far I did not see that small grabbers.

tome
07-14-2003, 09:52 AM
copyman

Thanks man, work fine here

any volts , up to 3,2v no variations

[]'s

Copy
07-18-2003, 10:01 AM
Radelon

I messed up one of my tabs when doin' this, so I used an SMD Grabber on the 4th leg of the Winbond chip and put the resistor inline and have it soldered to the ground leg of the mosfet. I used a 470ohm resistor and get a solid 2.97v at 2.8 setting in bios. So yes a grabber can be used. Took a bit of work to get it on there, but once on it's not moving.
07-19-2003, 01:36 AM
eva2000

for a newbie who's never done any soldering or electronics, how hard would it for me to mod vDimm on IC7 so that

2.5v = 2.85v
2.6v = 2.95v
2.7v = 3.05v
2.8v = 3.15v
07-19-2003, 12:32 PM
Radelon

eva, because of the small area you have to work with, it's very tough. It really was my first soldering job, but in the end I had to use the alternative way. But all is working so I can't complain.

I will be changing my resistor on Monday in hopes of getting 3.1v on the 2.8v setting.
07-21-2003, 01:46 AM
tome

Quote:

Originally posted by Radelon
I messed up one of my tabs when doin' this, so I used an SMD Grabber on the 4th leg of the Winbond chip and put the resistor inline and have it soldered to the ground leg of the mosfet. I used a 470ohm resistor and get a solid 2.97v at 2.8 setting in bios. So yes a grabber can be used. Took a bit of work to get it on there, but once on it's not moving.

@Radelon: Could you send me the part number or a pic of the SMD grabber you used? Thanks.

tome

email: tmehler@freenet.de
07-21-2003, 08:26 AM
Radelon

Quote:

Originally posted by tome
@Radelon: Could you send me the part number or a pic of the SMD grabber you used? Thanks.

tome

email: tmehler@freenet.de

SMD Grabber

That's the one I have, what's really cool about it is that you can take a wire from a Red, White, Black cd audio cable and the end will just slide right into the top of the grabber. It is a little tough to get on there, but it works.
07-22-2003, 09:51 PM
Nohto

1 Attachment(s)

I have a dif method of doing the mod. For the ground you can solder to the mosfet (see picture) and if you screw up the pad on the left side of the resistor, you can solder to the resistor next to it.(See picture)
07-22-2003, 10:30 PM
tome

Quote:

Originally posted by Radelon
SMD Grabber

That's the one I have, what's really cool about it is that you can take a wire from a Red, White, Black cd audio cable and the end will just slide right into the top of the grabber. It is a little tough to get on there, but it works.

Thanks for this info. I will try that when I get my next IC7.

tome
07-23-2003, 12:33 AM
Astroman

I did this mod yesterday, went to Rad Shack and picked up everything, including a 15w Soldering Iron, some "solder wick" (solder braid), some silver solder, a 1kohm 15 turn ceremet (15 turns is PLENTY 1/2 turn works out to be about .01 volt), and some wire.

Everything I needed including the iron was about $22.

I lost my old Weller soldering iron :(

anyhow, I did the mod with the computer still assembled, I just unplugged everything from the back, pulled off teh side, and set it down on the kitchen table. No more than 10 minutes later, including time to unpack/unwrap all the items, I was finished.

Let me say this is truly a piece of cake if you do it right, using the right tools. The solder wick makes removing the "resistor" a snap, without risk of damaging the PCB. Pre-tinning all the wires, the legs of the VR, and putting a tiny drop of solder on each pad makes the process very easy.

After all is said and done, I have 3.15 vdimm when set to 2.8, but I'm going to start backing that off.

For some reason, even after installing a TrueControl (Antec) 550w I still can't get prime95 stable after 275 FSB.

I can post higher than 300mhz but not get into windows. I can get into windows at 290, but prime fails instantly.

I think this VTT mod interests me now, considering the relative ease of such modifications, I may try it maybe it will help!

Thanks for all the info guys.

Abit IS7
Pentium 4 2.4c @ 3.4 Ghz
vdimm 3.15
Kingston HyperX pc3500 2-2-2-5
277 fsb @ 5:4
Street Racer
Auto
Auto
Auto
Disabled
6.1+ Ghz/sec sandra score
16300+ 3dmark01SE
9500 pro @ ~370/295
Antec TrueControl 550
Zalman CNPS7000 AlCu
1.7vcore
07-23-2003, 06:16 AM
MnM

Heres a pic of it:

http://www.arach.net.au/~mihai/Vmod.jpg

Quote:

Originally posted by MnM
Thanks to you guys I have finished this mod.
I replaced the 0Ohm resistor with a 331Ohm one (IC7-G).
It works perfect. At 2.55 selected in bios it will actually give me 2.75. Didnt try any higher yet.

Funny thing is this.
I have done one motherboard first and it worked perfect.
Then I did my friend's one. He would get a blank screen and no post. We replaced the resistor (the 331Ohm one) with a new one, thinking we might have given it too much heat. Same result. No display at all. What I have done then, is I shorted the 331Ohm resistor with some twizers therefore giving it a 0Ohm value.
I got post. I removed the twizers not post.
In the end what I have done is I put another resistor (331Ohm) ON TOP of the 331Ohm already on the motherboard. I solder it in parallel. We turn the PC on - POST!!!!
Now with this mod, he gets only half the voltage from the normal mod eg. 2.55 selected in bios actually gives him 2.67 real volts.
He was happy with it as he already thought he had to spen $$ for a new motherboard. Plus in the end he still gets more than the 2.8 limit.

So 2 identical boards, two identical mods but only one of them worked. I think the components used on the boards and their tolerances play a big part in modding the vdimm. I am now sure that if I had a 400-450Ohm resistor around and would have actually solder it to my friends board will have worked giving him a bit better than just 0.1 increase over the value selected in bios.

Maybe this info can help the guys who cant get a post after the board has been modded. Try solding one to the motherboard and one on top of the resistor. At least you will get more than the defualt max voltage in the end.
08-05-2003, 08:15 AM
shimmishim

okay... i've read a lot of this thread and i think i am going to do this mod after seeing how my geil gold dragon keeps failing memtest but is good up to 3.1 volts....

so let me get this straight...
alll i need:
soldering iron (15-35W)
1K ohm (adjustable)
solder wick
solder

i can go to radio shack and get all these things if i'm correct... can anyone give me the part numbers from the webpage so i can know what to get?

so this is the procedure...

i remove the board from my case... lay everything out on the table

find the r50 resistor which is next to the winbond chip right under the vdimm slots.

i am going to place soldering wick or whatever next to the resistor (i have no idea what soldering wick or braid looks like)

then i am going to use the soldering iron to heat up the metal contact pads (two of them) to remove the resistor but i have to be careful not to heat it too much or the pads will be burnt up or damaged

i remove the resistor

i adjust the 1k ohm pot to 300 ohms (i have a multimeter to measure this but i need help as to how to set it because i burnt up my 8rda+ thinking my pot was set to i forget how many ohms)

i take two pieces of wire and connect it to the pot...

then i take the pieces of wire and connect each to the contact pads via some of the solder

and voila! i'm done...

i guess the little details are things such as...

how do i adjust the pot correctly?
how do i connect the wires to the pot (i could just use solder correct)?
what sort of wires should i use?

i think if someone could give me the part numbers from radioshack, that'd be most helpful.. thanks!

Edit: i found all the part numbers on radioshack.com

i guess i have a question about the solder wick/braid

do i place this on the tip of the iron?
08-05-2003, 07:20 PM
Astroman

using solder braid is quite simple.

I used my bare fingers with about a 2" strip of braid, though you may want to use a glove or pliers to hold it, it gets hot.

place the end of the braid over the solder joint, then use the tip of the hot soldering iron to press the wick down onto the solder.

This heats the braid, which in turn heats the solder, which melts and gets soaked into the hot braid.

do this on both sides. the "resistor" will probably still be stuck to the board but apply the iron again to one side and it should melt the thin remaining layer of solder and you can gently push the "resistor" off its pads.

good luck.

Don't forget to tin the wire before trying to solder it to the board and the legs of the resistor..
08-05-2003, 09:51 PM
shimmishim

what is tinning the wire?
08-05-2003, 10:11 PM
Ruantic

Quote:

Originally posted by shimmishim
what is tinning the wire?

Tinning the wire refers to the process of pre-applying a thin coating of solder to the wire BEFORE you attach it to the connections.
08-05-2003, 10:31 PM
shimmishim

okay cool! i'll give that a shot...

i'll try this mod out tomorrow most likely...

keep your fingers crossed that i won't kill this nice board!!!
08-06-2003, 03:27 PM
shimmishim

i was practicing on a dead motherboard...

is this a good job of desoldering a resistor?

did i burn the contact pads?

any suggestions?

btw... FB15 is the one i removed

http://www.johnshim.com/soldering/DSC00023s.jpg
08-06-2003, 08:09 PM
Astroman

looks good man, nice job.

If you got the stuff at Rad Shack and followed the directions on the back of the solder braid, then you are doing well!

now, practice tinning the wires and soldering them to those pads.

One thing very important, is that you have to keep the joint STILL once you remove the heat, or you may end up with what is known as a "cold joint" or a bad solder connection... so, remove the iron and keep the wire as still as possible.

I would also like to add that there looks to be quite a bit of splatter on the board... is that how it came ? clean that crap off if you have anything that looks like that on your new board.
08-06-2003, 09:43 PM
shimmishim

finished! :)

went well...

2.8 in bios is now 2.97

i'll tweak more later! thanks guys!
08-14-2003, 09:55 PM
Netto

Finished the vmod, everything went well, I used a 1k Trimpot (Attached to the PCI) and used the wire to get steady (Mosfet).

That way I can turn the Trimpot all the way up to 3.2 vdimm, without the worry of xxxxxucking up the soldering :D

http://www.euclides0510.kit.net/dsc00051.jpg

:toast:
08-17-2003, 03:44 AM
Scallywhag

Since the r50 resistor is close to 0-1 ohm...can i just like solder another 1k VR on top of the r50 resistor and adjust the resistance? Does this work or i still need to remove the r50 resistor?
08-17-2003, 06:18 AM
Pita^Norf

Quote:

Originally posted by Scallywhag
Since the r50 resistor is close to 0-1 ohm...can i just like solder another 1k VR on top of the r50 resistor and adjust the resistance? Does this work or i still need to remove the r50 resistor?

if you solder a 1K VR on top of the R50 resistance you would be placing the R50 and VR in parallel, thus the effective reistance will be less than the smallest of the parallel pair i.e less than that of R50 and therefore nothing will be gained.
08-17-2003, 05:28 PM
Scallywhag

Thanx for the reply Pita.!!!
08-19-2003, 05:16 PM
johnrr6

Excellent Thread----Thank you!

I'm brand new to the board but all I can say is------You guys are AWESOME! :toast:

Just finished the mod and it went like clockwork. I now have a nice 2.95 VDIMM when the bios is set to 2.8. It really brought some fire back into my older spec RAM and I increased my 1:1 overclock by 9 mghtz.

I used a little bit different technique to unsolder the R50 resistor. Call it the two gun-----or------2 soldering iron method.

I used two 15W soldering irons that I let heat up for at least 15 minutes. Then, I just placed a tip at each end of the resistor and when the solder turned to liquid----I just lifted the resistor off the board pinched between the two iron's tips.

This left most of the solder nicely on each pad so I didn't have to worry about losing the pad. I added a small drop of solder on each pad just to assist in more easily soldering the wires.

I epoxied the trimmer onto the top of an IDE connection in order to be able to get to it easily.

Fired up the machine and with Hardware Doctor open-----used the trimmer to adjust the VDIMM. I turned the screw VERY slowly so as to not get any big jumps in voltage.

GREAT mod!!! Afraid you fellas have given me the itch. Now I'll probably HAVE to mod every board I ever own. See pics below and thanks again-----John :thumbsup:

http://www.frontpage2000.family-net....oltModWeb1.jpg
http://www.frontpage2000.family-net....oltModWeb2.jpg
08-20-2003, 03:18 PM
n6b72g

I did this mod a little different. I was able to acomplish this mod with no direct soldering to the board, using smd grabbers, a 1K variable resistor, and a flathead screwdriver.

First I took a flathead screwdriver and worked the R50 resistor loose, like nycundaground had done. After the R50 resistor was off I began soldering my connections. I took one smd grabber and soldered a wire to it and soldered the other end of the wire to the outside leg of my resistor. Next I took another SMD grabber and soldered a wire to it and then soldered the other end of the wire to the middle leg of my resistor. After my soldering was done I took the SMD grabber attached to the outer leg of my resistor and attached it to the 4th leg down on the winbond chip next to the R50 resistor, like Tedinde had done. I then took the SMD grabber attached to the middle leg of my resistor and attached it to the outer leg of the mosfet directly to the right of the winbond chip, like Nohto had mentioned in his post on page 7.

Im not sure if I would recommend my method, but it worked for me.

EDIT: Well it turns out i did have to soler directly to my board. The 4th leg on the winbond chip actually broke off (they are very fragile). :eek: There was still a little of the leg left, which i soldered too. Amazingly the board still works fine.
08-21-2003, 11:54 AM
NyCUndaGrounD

Great Job guys!! on the vdimm mods. Ic7-G is sitting in my closet for now, until i get a coolermaster case which will be used as backup pc.
08-21-2003, 05:40 PM
JToolz

This vmod is next in line for me. Great job on those vmods guys.
08-21-2003, 06:18 PM
Underwater Mike

Guys,

Excellent thread with great instructions. Too bad I screwed mine anyway: http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showth...450#post522450. :bsod:

Don't want to hijack the thread, but what about a P4C800-E as a replacement? Looks like the Vmod on that one is easier/solderless?

P.S. If you're thinking of this mod and are too cheap to buy the necessary materials, let me know and I'll send you my nicely soldered and wrapped pot and leads!
08-21-2003, 06:48 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

Well i think the vdimm on Pc4800-e is easier because your dealing with more solder space. In the Ic7-g, your confined to those little 2 spots for soldering whereas for the p4c800-e, you have 2 legs to solder it to.
08-22-2003, 02:00 PM
Goli

sorry i am new in this forum, getting more voltaje you can increase more the FSB of the MOBO? what are the avdvantages to increase more the voltaje of the VDIMM?

Thanks a lot
08-22-2003, 02:30 PM
Underwater Mike

Thanks. I think that if I get the Asus board as a replacement I will do the mod with grabbers instead of solder. I can solder everything else away from the board, but after this expensive mistake I don't want to develop my soldering skills any more irght now.:brick:
08-23-2003, 07:39 AM
NapalmV5

Is there any other way of doing the vmem mod without removing R50 ?
08-23-2003, 09:26 AM
BioBlade

i am going to do the v-mod verry soon and put my geil golden dragon on 3.2v , but what is the best v-mod and what to use ?

thanx allready
08-23-2003, 10:34 AM
Intronic

yea, i dont want the risk to f*ck my board again with the r50 resistor .. so ill just wait till a other solution :p:
08-23-2003, 02:41 PM
Astroman

Quote:

Originally posted by NapalmV5
Is there any other way of doing the vmem mod without removing R50 ?

no. If you leave R50 in place, there will always be ZERO resistance, and no way to ADD resistance to a dead short without removing the dead short.
08-23-2003, 08:38 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

Quote:

Originally posted by NapalmV5
Is there any other way of doing the vmem mod without removing R50 ?

Yea its called buying the Max3

:toast:
09-01-2003, 02:02 PM
hipro5

I just HAVE to post this cos I receive a lot of PMs about the Vmem modd and I'll post here so as to be seen.........

The VTT is a bit dificult cos a trace HAS to be cut.....So we leave it........

The whole Vmem thread on IC7 Mobo is WRONG......It's based on trick the winbond chip to read less Vmem and on it's output give more........It wants some mamperes to work right......With ONLY one resistor and a BIG one(330 Ohms) you drop it's "reading" voltage BUT you DON'T feed it with the current it wants so as to work properly......The secret is : Unsolder the R50 resistor and on it's place solder a 10 Ohms(ten Ohms) resistor......Now on the left side of the resistor of the 10 Ohms,the side that is close to winbond chip,you SOLDER a trimmer of 220 or 200 or 330 Ohms to GROUND.........After soldering it you take a multimeter and you put it in Ohms reading.......You trim the trimmer so us to show you it's max resistence....You'll NOT see 330 Ohms(in case of a 330 trimmer....You'll see about 70 Ohms.......If I remember well.....Boot up and you'll mesure with a 200 Ohms trimmer about 2.73Vmem........You can now trim it slowly and you can get Vmem as much is your 3.3Volts line minus .12Volts......Example.....IF your 3.3Volts line is 3.4Volts , you'll get about 3.28Vmem.........and so on......If you modd your PSU at 3.6Volts , you can get as high as 3.48Vmem..........With this modd you do NOT have to worry IF your mobo is going to start or not cos with the way the Vmem modd is done(with the 330 Ohms resistor in R50's place) is wrong........With this Modd It'll start........Good luck......... ;)

http://www.pctech.gr/hipro5/photos/P...ondMon_png.png
09-01-2003, 02:30 PM
Pejsen

Quote:

Originally posted by hipro5
........Good luck......... ;)

Thanks Hipro :) Now it makes sence and this was just the mod i was looking for :D Althoug Tom already told me what to do :p:
09-01-2003, 04:36 PM
johnrr6

Modify already done mod

Hip-------OK----got mine done the "wrong way" and never had a boot issue----but I'm only going as high as 3.0 VDIMM.

If I wanted to easly fix it to your way:

I'd just snip off the 1k trimmer at the end of the wires I already have soldered into the R50 pads and solder in a 10 ohm resistor to the end of the two wires.

Then add the trimmer to the wire closest to the winbond chip----middle pin to ground and an outside leg to the wire closest to the Winbond chip. (or is it the other way around)?

With multimeter----trim the trimmer to max resistance.

Boot-----use Winbond Hardware doctor to see what your VDIMM is.

Trim to the desired VDIMM.

Have I got it right??

This way I don't have to unsolder any wires from the R50 pads.

Any problems with VTT when you hit say 3.1 or 3.2 VDIMM???

John
09-01-2003, 07:10 PM
Astroman

I don't get it. I have mine done the way which you claim is "wrong", but it works and I've adjusted up to 3.1volts for my vdimm.

What is wrong? why does it work if its wrong, and if its not really working what is actually happening?
09-01-2003, 09:03 PM
Manoj

I also have it modded the wrong way and it does 3.25V easily without any problems.
09-01-2003, 10:55 PM
hipro5

Guys.....mesure the Vmem(Vdim) with a multimeter and don't trust the Winbond hardware monitor to do that for you........... ;)

When you have to get more Vmem out of it and you trimm the trimmer to do so(in case of a trimmer in R50's place),you get some more Vmem more......When you shut down your computer and after you restart....NO BOOT.....You have to trimm the trimmer backwords so as to get less Vmem so as to start the Mobo.After the Mobo starts, you have to trimm again so as to get the Vmem the Volts it was.......With my way the Mobo starts immediatly as it was before with the Vmem you have picked....... ;)

I don't care if you do the excisting Modd or mine.....Do whatever you like........It's up to you....... ;) :D
09-01-2003, 11:10 PM
hipro5

Re: Modify already done mod

Quote:

Originally posted by johnrr6
Hip-------OK----got mine done the "wrong way" and never had a boot issue----but I'm only going as high as 3.0 VDIMM.

IF you try to get more Volts(mV) out of it , your Mobo will not start ;)

If I wanted to easly fix it to your way:

I'd just snip off the 1k trimmer at the end of the wires I already have soldered into the R50 pads and solder in a 10 ohm resistor to the end of the two wires.

Then add the trimmer to the wire closest to the winbond chip----middle pin to ground and an outside leg to the wire closest to the Winbond chip. (or is it the other way around)?

You can leave your 1K trimmer as is and unsolder the midle pin of it from the wire that it goes at R50's place.....The midle wire goes to Ground...The ather pin of the trimmer MUST be on the left side of R50 which is close to Winbond chip......Now you can solder a 10 Ohms resistor to the pin of the trimmer WITH the wire witch goes to Winbond chip and it's other end to the wire which comes from the other pad of the R50,the one close to a Mos-fet.....

With multimeter----trim the trimmer to max resistance.

Yes

Boot-----use Winbond Hardware doctor to see what your VDIMM is.

Best way is to use a multimerer to mesure the Vmem cos Winbond hardware monitor "shows" as it wishes.....

Trim to the desired VDIMM.

Yes

Have I got it right??

Yes

This way I don't have to unsolder any wires from the R50 pads.

You are right

Any problems with VTT when you hit say 3.1 or 3.2 VDIMM???

John

No problems at all......The only problem is that when you trimm to get more Vmem,then the VTT will be lower than the half of the Vmem.......Problem with this is that if you want to pick over 3.35Vmem,and your VTT is about 1.4Volts,your ram will be in a lower frequency than it would have been with the VTT at half of Vmem .......

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