Thats good, you had me worried considering the water cooling in your sig. Has anybody tried a xeon on 680i sli board? Thats the route I need to go with my 7900gt's.
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Thats good, you had me worried considering the water cooling in your sig. Has anybody tried a xeon on 680i sli board? Thats the route I need to go with my 7900gt's.
L623 E6600 - cant even dual 32m 3700 mhz
L628A E6600 - 3707 orthos @ 1.65v
L623 E6700 B2 S6 ES = dual 32m @ 3800, wont even orthos 3.7 :(
L629A Xeon 3060 = 3903 orthos with some work
L628B Xeon 3060 = 3903 orthos within 3 minutes of work...
so 100% of my E6600s cant do even 3710, yet 100% of my Xeons run 3900+.
I think its safe to say the Xeons overclock better ;)
Which egg warehouse did the B come from?
hey guys.. i'm running the xeon 3060 with an eVGA 680i now.. its er notddoing too good imo :D prime stable at 3.5ghz and 1.55Vcore. running scythe infinity
heres the link~
sorrie ddidnt post earlier guys~
http://forums.vr-zone.com/showthread.php?t=110175
oh and mine's L629A780 too~
It would be interesting to see how the Xenon's compare to the "B" step Conroes. I definitely think these CPUs are better though considering they cost only like $10 more than the regular chips.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
@NightRaven
It seems to me that your cooling is the issue with your setup. Your having issues at 1.5v and above which is really more like 1.43 to 1.46 with vdroop on 680i.
Even though you have a decent cooler your not the first that's having temp issues with the scythe infinity.
Your cpu is still scaling well at low voltages so I think that cpu would be doing better if you had water cooling or better.
Also what week is your cpu?
@NightRaven Thanks for info. Maybe check for good contact @ IHS. Good luck.
thanks guys... mne cpu is the same aas fhp.. l62A780... yea prob temps.. testing sstill.. really need some work.. another ting i noticed was vmch.. i onlyy have till 1.7V.. could be tt as well~
I have some initial results with an L629A780 (Xeon 3060) on a Rev. 305 BadAxe1. I have the vMCH turned all the way up, 1.725V and Enchance Power Slope (EPS) is on.
To get +30% or above on the 1066 strap (FSB 346, 3.11 GHz), I had to turn up the vCore to about 1.5V (it works turned all the way down, 1.275V, for lower speeds). I had no problem maxing the 1066 strap (+50%, FSB 400, 3.6 GHz) either, but it is not clear if the system is 100% stable at vCore 1.5V yet. I could POST on the 1333 strap +25% (416 FSB , 3.75 GHz) at vCore 1.6V, but my hacked version of OS X had some problems booting (Windows might have been fine). I am working with 4 x 512 MB of Corsair 5400UL v1.5 at 2.2V (max. for BadAxe1), but I could not use the 1333 strap at all with four sticks in (this is consistent with my results from 4 x 1 GB of Corsair ValueSelect).
So, I am getting the idea that the BadAxe1 is holding this chip back (as fhpChris seems to have had to no problem getting better results with his 3060's). I might try using ClockGen to set the FSB higher than 400 on the 1066, but am really starting to think more about getting some BadAxe2's. My BadAxe1 overclocks my E6300 pretty well, so I had thought it would be good enough to do better here (and maybe it is with ClockGen). But I have two more BadAxe1's in route which I have gotten at half price and now I am thinking about selling those or sending them back.
Likewise, the BadAxe1 is hardly the right board for running 5400UL's with its 2.2 vDIMM limit.
EDIT: I turned up the vFSB all the way to 1.385V (which may have had no effect) and the vCore to 1.55V, now the systems appears to be 100% stable at 3.6 GHz. I should also mention that I am using an Ultra V-Series 500 W PSU which is not be the best for overclocking (but it might not be a limiting factor here either).
EDIT2: Since a vCore of 1.55 V was stable, I turned it down with the smallest steps it to find the minimum needed for 100% stability. The minimum appears to be 1.5375 V.
@bofors.. what cooling did u use?
Nice!!! Good Info guys... Congrats too all those getting 39XX without much sweat :)
Ha, I was just about to fix that omission.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
I am running a lapped Big Typoon mounted with Artic Silver 5, cooled with a 120 x 38 mm ~100 CFM Sunon:
http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/9251/pict0006gx7.jpg
I have two 50mm Delta's, ~10 CFM each, on the stock Northbridge which I lapped and mounted with Arctic Silver 5:
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3056/pict0001bn5.jpg
I am using a CoolerMaster Centurion 5 case with some extra fans up front:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/5646/pict0003ho7.jpg
I like the setup of the memory fan.. :D hehehe :rocker:
Me too, actually. For about $7 in fans (Delta no less), you can build a decent memory fan with a little epoxy and two rubber bands. It comes off and goes on with little hassle too. Compare that to the Corsair "AirFlow" memory fan for $22.50 at Performanc-PCs:Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinz
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20910
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...13-8020_01.jpg
But those 50 mm Deltas spin at 5500 RPM and are a little loud (~ 30 dBA). Furthermore, they are actually a little small, so I ordered some quiet (~ 20 dBA) 60 mm Vantec-branded fans, which are quite a bit more expensive, instead.
When you run a different multi on 680 your reported ram speed is wrong, I bet that is your problem....Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
Why do people even bother to run this 7/8 multi crap on a 9 multi chip? When you figure out the board I am sure your results will improve.
I had similar problems trying to run 4*512, as 975x just didnt want to run 4 dimms much over 390-400fsb. As soon as I took out 2 dimms I could do 430+Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
Well, I think that is it for the Corsari 5400UL v1.5 then, they are going back to NewEgg. If they were 1 GB sticks (or perhaps v1.2), I might keep them, but this RAM is not really doing me much good here. It seems clear that I want some BadAxe2's instead, so I think I am going to send back the two BadAxe1's I have in route too.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
RMA's all around: :banana:
I will still need to pick up another 2 x 1GB RAM set though, I guess I will go with the Crucial Ballistix deal at NewEgg: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=124249
hey bro.. nopez thats not the prob.. the prob is heat.. its not stable after a few hours at 3.5ghz and 1.55v... i'm down to 3.45ghz... didnt run lower multi at all just once to find max fsb of the board~Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
I would not trust the onboard sensors, but with a 120mmx38mm sanyo denki and a big Typhoon I saw ~66c load just running dual32m @ 1.65v, so to really prime 1.6 you will need cool ambients or water. I think that even with a silent fan you should be able prime 1.55v easily, so I do not know the problem...Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
Do you have a good mount? Is your heatsink even getting warm? DO NOT TRUST THE ONBOARD SENSORS!
haha okay do not trust onboard sensors! haha using coretemp also.. hsf is gettin warm :) just a little..
i think probably i need a hsf with a smaller base.. will try and test it out when my hsf comes..hopefully.. it'll do better.. thanks for the tip man :)
Just to throw a contribution into the hat.
Stable for 2 hours, but v.hot if the readings are to be believed. Sort of confused by this. Maybe the B28's have a heat problem?
The messed up thing is I then went to do a 3d render with an app called fprime straight after the ortho test. my system hung straight away. Maybe the software has corrupted, as it now hangs even at lower settings. Or have I buggered the chip? Will have to look into that somehow.????
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/2...oxeon01sn8.jpg
RLM
Your vCore still might be a little low.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
This xeon is performant cpu and very good for overclocking ;)
I have one question, with asus p5b deluxe and memory with chips micron D9 (Cell Shock PC8000 4-4-4-12 for example?)my configuration has good for extreme overcloking ?
@+
i would say this cpu flies on water.. but its normal on air.. the combo u stated should be quite well.. :)
ok thanks I'm using aircooling,watercooling and phase change later.
I'm using a similar aircooling (zerotherm BTF90),is king of aircooling for CPU;)
I would not trust core temp or the onboard sensors! My guess is that the problem stems from the use of voltages other than stock; so when we run 1.58v (even something like 1.39v) we are running different voltages through the temperature sensors and they are no longer calibrated or accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
The voltage wont damage the cpu, but it does seem to change the way the temperature sensor reads things. Different cpus probably have different resistance in the sensors and running different voltages makes them inaccurate.
My 50W iwaki gets VERY warm, almost burning hot if I leave it on for a week or so (it is made to do survive this, dont worry)
Clearly a 150-200W cpu will make a heatsink hot or burning to the touch if it is actually running @ 83C, and when cold air is comming out of my radiator, I really say that all the sensors are just wrong.
Changing cpus should not let the temperature change 20+ degrees C, but I will say that I think the L628Bs do run hotter and that is why they clock better. It is the same thing with the CCBBE,CCB2E, and CCB1E Opteron 165s, the ones that run hotter at the same settings are the faster ones ;)
4ghz prime on silent water cooling @ 1.4-1.5v just is not going to happen except in a few cases with the top 0.001% of CPUs, so I think that is a bad thing to aim for, aiming for 3.8 with a xeon 3060 on water @ 1.58-1.63v should be easily attainable ;)
haha i will be testing the btf in awhile.. when i get it...Quote:
Originally Posted by marillion
@thanks for the tips chris! least we all have some reference point :)
I think the critical issues here are motherboard first, then cooling. The PB5 Dlx. is good, but I think there are better choices for "extreme" overclocking. While I am not aiming for the extreme, I think I may come close to 3.8 GHz with good air cooling and a BadAxe2 (I just ordered two of these motherboards, I will have them next week).Quote:
Originally Posted by marillion
Me either I do not aim too the extreme;), best it is a badaxe2 or a p5b dlx or a abit AW9D-MAX?? it is for a stable overclocking @ 3.5Ghz on aircooling and more on watercooling.
If not for the BTF, I haven't got this cooling because it's difficult to find in France :'(
Intel motherboards are supposed to be best in terms of stability and the initial reports of the BadAxe2 make it sound like one of the best potential boards for overclocking a Xeon 3060: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=124131
it's nice motherboard ;) it's first Intel motherboard to dedicate of overclocking and she has very lot of vmods :)
First boot with my new 3060 batch L628B167......underload was 1.39v. Seems I finally received a good cpu from Newegg after all these years. Will test more this weekend. FYI, came from Neweggs Jamestown, PA warehouse. Sorry coretemp shows 413x9 as I used clockgen to increase fsb for testing. 3.8 failed have way thru duo SuperPI.
http://home.comcast.net/~phippy1/Xeon3060.JPG
Quick semi SS......dam finally going to have break down and replace my 1x120 heatercore.;)
http://home.comcast.net/~phippy1/Xeon4ghz.JPG
Very good, nothing like getting a good clocking cpu delivered and it looks like you got one. I hope I can get lucky when I order. What are your temps under load?
great results!
i placed an order and supposedly they've sent me a L628B :)
i will know on Monday. :)
Where did you order from? Did you get to pick what you wanted?Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Room temp 24-25c cooling in sig with only 1x120 fan on heatercore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron 61
http://home.comcast.net/~phippy1/Xeon_temps.JPG
yes!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron 61
i'll post the vendor on monday after i get the chip just so no one gets their hopes up on getting one and ends up that they either don't have anymore or won't let others pick.
edit:
but if you have to know... same place as GPSeek! :) www.pyrinex.com
I would definately get bigger rad, it might let you go further since it looks like you have a good cpu to work with.
It will be very interesting to see how a "B" step 3050 Xenon stacks up with a "B" step E6400.Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
I'd definitely buy one of these by default if it wasn't for the fact that Fry's will likely have some crazy sale on regular e6400s.
Hardly conclusive at 5 minutes, but seems stable, Fprime rendering working and render times are consistent. At full load coretemp 78c.
Edit: Memory running 4-4-4-15 trfc 45
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/5...oxeon02fz5.jpg
RLM
my my is everyone with a xeon on water here!? haha except me that is..... i'm still trying to get it orthos stable at 3.46ghz...
thou it can pi at 3.75 and 3dmark at 3.6ghz..
Just set it up and played a little bit. Here is the initial results for my Xeon 3060 L628B211 on Bad Axe 2 with newest bios.
It can do 9*390 = 3.51GHz at default voltage. Memory set to 533MHz (I think this is 1:1, am I right?) 4-4-4-10 2.16V.It passed 3.5 hour memtest86 tests.
It cannot boot at 9*400 with default voltage (1.325v):slapass:
Not bad:) . But I don't know it's the CPU or the memory that needs to be pushed.:p: Any idea?
Installing WinXP x64 Pro now....
not too shabby.. should be able to do 9x400 hopefully with 1.35 or 1.375 volts?Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
i've got the same chip coming on monday as well.
Is it worth it to spend the extra few bucks for the xeon 3060?
I think so. It is still a matter of luck. However, it seems if you go with Xeon 3060 you have a better chance than with a E6600 from the data we gathered so far.:fact:Quote:
Originally Posted by Yay for Cheese
imo its doing okay.. same as e6600.. or maybe a little better.. i'm doing 3.46orthos stable for 4 hours so far. 1.55V thou.. infinity and an acryan fan :D
will post some screenies if i can when i get home~
I wonder if one of you guys with a 3060 can do a comparison with a 6600. Oc to 3.6ghz, something that should be attainable for both cpus and run benchmarks to see if they really are identical cpus.
The reason I ask is because some are under the premise that you'll get lower 3d scores with a xeon but they are better for number crunching and folding.
I really don't think there are any differences though but it would be nice to know before I make the purchase.
Yes, they are the same, no we dont need benchies to prove that ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDeeds
Ditto, we even know that Woodcrest and Merom have the same core design. There is no "server" core or whatever with this generation of x86 Intel chips.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
It looks like the minimum voltage for 100% stability at 3.6 GHz is about 1.525V on my system. It is very stable at 1.5125V but I ran both cores under full load over night and it frooze at some point.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
EDIT: It just frooze at 1.525V, now testing 1.5375V.
haha or probably cuz we all are not running servers that we cant tell.. basically on desktop these do the same.. but put them in a server.. maybe thats where the differences come out?
hmm yea... i could do 3.55ghz 1.5V but then came to orthos full load.. failed after 3 hours.. and so far.. 1.55v and 3.46ghz has been rock solid for 5 hours.. my ambients here in Singapore are 30 degrees celcius.Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
i need to do more testing really.. the 680i is flaky at best.. requires lots of time and patience.. could be due to my other voltages that 3.55 or 3.6 dun run well.
There is no difference. Again, Intel only designs one x86 core now. It is the same across the entire line, from laptops to servers. This is part of their new strategy.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
Are you guys with 3060's running with EIST ("SpeedStep") on or turning it off?
Mine has been on and I was thinking it might want to leave it on for a 24 / 7 application.
I've tried both on and off, not sure if there is a difference yet. I have however disabled throttling and that does seem to make a difference stability wise.Quote:
Are you guys with 3060's running with EIST ("SpeedStep") on or turning it off?
Been meaning to also re-install windows 64 bit as well. Would be interested to see how that fares.
RLM
I am not sure what you mean by "throttling" here, is that something you disabled in BIOS like EIST/SpeedSpeed (or is this some setting in Windows)?Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
that is a bios thing. pretty much if your chip gets above a certain temperature then the chip will throttle in order to cool down (prevent chip from overheating and getting damaged).Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
in the aw9d max, there are two ways this happens...
1. i can't remember :)
2. it'll lower the your mult to 6x and voltage to 0.8-ish volts if i remember correctly.
That sounds exactly the same as EIST/SpeedStep:Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep technology allows the system to dynamically adjust processor voltage and core frequency...
http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/rese...nce/203838.htm
yeah. well i blieve the new beta bios from abit removed EIST or it automatically disables it as default..
gosh i wish i were in front of my computer, then i could tell ya what it is exactly... :)
Just a quick update:
4*900 = 3.6GHz at 1.40v Orthos stable for 4+ hours:toast:
core temp 0.94 reads the core temperature around 63~67C at lowest speed of TT120.:)
thanks for the results.Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
i was hoping yours would do 3.6 @ 1.35ish ... i guess i can expect similar results.
one more thing...
any issues with the flatness of the IHS? i remember how the earlier ones had such issues with the middle of the IHS being concave
Congrats. 1.40v in bios or in windows? Packing date please.Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
He has an L628B211Quote:
Originally Posted by bobov
Seems better than L629A780 at low voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
Are CPU vCore's supposed to be 100% motherboard independent?
(Considering that the motherboard is supplying the voltage, I would think not.)
Ha, you're a serious overclocker:DQuote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
I did not inspect the surface with any instrumentations but naked eyes:rolleyes:
The only thing I found out was that the surface had some oil remains on it. So I cleaned it with some lens cleaning liquid.
The heatsink finish of Tuniq 120 is not very good either. I did not lap it.
in bios for sure. :fact:Quote:
Originally Posted by bobov
My Xeon 3060 boxes (L629A780) have an extra sticker with a barcode that covers up the "EAN", "UPC" and "PACK DATE" information.
the way i test it is to put some thermal grease and spread a thin layer on the whole cpu... then i'll push it against the bottom of a heatsink or wateblock... then i'll pull it off to see where it has touched or not...Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
a flat IHS will leave a nice smear mark wherever it has touched the heatsink and will look undisturbed where it hasn't touched.
you can also look at the bottom of the heatsink to see where it has or hasn't as well...
In the abit bios you have an EIST setting and a separate throttling setting, so they are not the same as far as I know:)
RPG
That might be just a barcode sticker of your reseller. I don't see any reasons Intel want to cover up its own UPC.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
yeah.. did you get it from newegg? i know newegg has their own bar code thing they put on all retail packagesQuote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
So I went to go play with my Badaxe2, roomate insisted on using his POS Ultra 500w that he got free after rebate, and I thought, "hey this is conore + x800 vanilla, its gotta work!?" It booted, and I went in bios and changed the voltages to what I normally would use....
And the psu died, taking the mobo with it :(
Needless to say he now owns a Silverstone ST56ZF Zeus!
ouch! so your badaxe2 is dead? :(Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
Ya, that must be it.Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
:mad: Dammit!Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
:eek: I am running that same PSU and I have three more sitting here in boxes.
I researched the crap out of that PSU, found almost no reports of failure and absolutely nobody claimed that it killed their system: http://forum.insanelymac.com/index.php?showtopic=30232
I have been running my E6300 with no problem for a few weeks on it (but at the minimal voltage of 1.275 V). Statistically spearking, I think I am still pretty safe but my confidence in this PSU is defiinitely gone.
fhpChris, I am sorry that of all the people this could have happened to that you were the victim (someone who did not even buy one no less) and that it killed a brand new BadAxe2 as well. But can you tell us if you were running any high power graphics cards or anything else that might have triggered this event?
~bofors
I'm sorry to hear this:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
I had hoped you got better results than I do with the same setup as mine.
It's your original post leading me to xeon 3060. Thank you for the good work.
Yes, I only once got into the bios, it was looking like a cool board, and with a dual core it let me set fsb to ~482 or higher, 482 was the highest I tried to enter....Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
You could not pay me to use that PSU. I hooked my 8800gtx + 10th crucial ballistix + xeon 3060 up to the badaxe 2 to test them and my FSU 700w shrieked in terror! I hope it is still alive :|Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
xeon 3060/ 10th Crucial/ X800 are runnning on my AW9D right now :)
High power Graphics cards? I was using AN ATI X800 VANILLA! (Thank you NickS!), it just does not get more "low power" than that card, it does not even have extra power connectors on it!
With "ONLY" conroe + BX2 I exploded that PSU! DO NOT USE THAT POS! Throw the ones you have on ebay, or just throw them in the trash!
Thanks for details.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
But before I dump my PSU's, I have one more question.
Was this Ultra new when it killed your BadAxe2 or had it been used before?
EDIT: I just sent an email message to Ultra about this issue, I want to see what they have to say about the safety of these PSU's, the cause of failure and what sort of protection they offer against a defective product that destroys hardware. It seems to me that they are liable for damages caused by their PSU's loaded within spec.
Stress test update:toast:
hey GPseek.. what vcore are u using bro?
Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Ordered a L628B 3060 (comfirmed by them) from pyrinex today, will get it on Tuesday. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRaven
1.40v in bios?
yesQuote:
Originally Posted by bobov
NewQuote:
Originally Posted by bofors
anybody got a dfi infinity laying around to test the xeon in?
They have a good price on this CPU. So has anyone confirmed that Xenon week 28 B step CPUs are made of tougher silicon than week 28 "B" step 6600s?Quote:
Originally Posted by bobov
I think nobody really knows except a very few intel guys working in the fab:stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by Phosphate
Thanks again, I am going to putting the screws down on Ultra over this. If I get them to cough up some money, I will let you know.Quote:
Originally Posted by fhpchris
I thought the killer Ultra PSU might have been new, I think I need to find a way to test or burn-in my other Ultra PSUs before exposing good hardware to them. I have an old motherboard that might work for that.
I am going to build a second Xeon 3060 (L629A780 ) box today with another BadAxe1 rev. 305. I did pick up a BFG Tech 650 W PSU last night for this new build, which looked like the best thing I could find at CompUSA that had an EPS 12V (8 pin) connector on it. I have been wondering if my cheap (and now potentially dangerous) Ultra was limiting my overclock anyways.
Yea, the BFG PSU should at least be reliable enough not to make you too nervous to use it LOL ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
I know we all want to use affordable and cheap parts for crunching rigs, but skimping on a PSU is just a bad idea :(
I got almost identical results from building a second 3060 (L629A780 ) box today with another BadAxe1 rev. 305.
It seems to be 100% stable at 3.6 GHz (on either 1066 or 1333 strap), but requires a vCore of about 1.55V. The only differences seem to be this system can be stabilized by raising the vFSB and BIOS reports that runs some 10 degrees cooler than the first one.
Both of these systems will overclock at little above 3.6 GHz, but are not very stable and will not reach 3.7 GHz. I have tried overclocking above 400 FSB on the 1066 strap with ClockGen with the same results.
The BFG Tech 650W PSU seems to be a little more stable than the Ultra V-Series 500W, but the 12V rail is little under 12V (the Ultra is always about 12.125V).
Code:Dear Ultra,
I have purchased four Ultra V-Series 500W and have used one for a few
weeks with excellent results. However, I was shocked to read a forum
post today describing how an Ultra V-Series 500W died and destroyed a
brand new Intel "Bad Axe 2" motherboard in the process.
I would to know how and why an Ultra V-Series 500W can destroy a
motherboard and what kind of protection Ultra offers on such a
defective product. I would also like to know how many times an Ultra
V-Series 500W has died and destroyed components in the process.
Thank you,
[bofors]
So, the Ultra V-Series are sone of their best PSU's? Hmm...Code:Dear Customer
Thanks for you recent email.
That unfortunate situation is a isolated problem,
V series is one our best PS that we have in the market.
Thanks
Thank you for contacting us.
If you have any further inquiries please reply to this email.
Sincerely,
Miguel
Ultra Products Tech. Support
Seems with alittle break in this cpu is starting to shine....
http://home.comcast.net/~phippy1/4.1ghz.JPG
4.1 GHz. That's nice, I wonder how much of that is do to your water cooling.
I would like to think its doing some good but to be honest my heatercore cannot handle the temps these B chips are pushing out. Soon will have another rad and would like to see 3-5c in temp drop, if that happens 4.2SS might be happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by bofors
Great results everyone ;)
I'm interested in the answer too. I think it's compatible with every conroe-board (or atleast 965 and 975-based), so I guess it will be compatible, but a real answer would be nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqMale
Are there any dual-xeon motherboards to put two xeon 30x0s in a dual setup? Or is that only possible with the 5000-series (and its FB-dimm :sick: )
Bofors,
Glad I posted my batch number in another thread, save me digging out boxes or removing water blocks. My xeon is week 28 B, L628B211.
Just thought I'd post it here, instead of PM. Just in case it's of general interest:)
RLM
Thanks, I looked through this thread a couple times but was not sure that I didn't miss it.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
I am sure there is general interest in these batch numbers.