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Originally Posted by Cpl Ledanek
I found this place on ebay that sells the Powder. You can pick out a color you like and then show the store in your area the color you like. Just remember anything that is plastic will melt in there oven. So only metals...
Roseys powder coating
just a crazy thought....those truck bed liner paints...pretty tough stuff...would it be a good candidate for a textured chassis-ONLY paint....not outer panels...just chassis paint...since this gets the bruising from upgrades and removing screws on and off...what you guys think
I want to paint the interior of my case, this guide instructions apply to case interiors too?, because as i saw interiors have different coat. :confused:.
My case is a Quantum Black.
http://reviews.pcapex.com/cases/xg_q...ase.php?page=2.
;)
thanks man.wish i read this guide earlier...
hmmm very interesting, I just did the first coat of my case this morning, waiting for it to dry so I can sand it.
I used car paint in a 400ml can, was only just enough for one coat. It stopped spraying nicely just as I was reaching the last corner. I have another can so should I use it? will I get a better finish?
1st , what color are U using ?? color might vary from can 2 can .. to fix 1st sssssspray problem , turn upside down spray and clear nozzle..:)
[QUOTE=hare;2862447]1st , what color are U using ?? color might vary from can 2 can .. to fix 1st spray problem , turn upside down spray and clear nozzle..:) here is a pic of my latest .
how does it look if you paint the inside of an aluminum case without sanding?
sanding seems like a whole lot of trouble that I'd rather not go through... I'm fine with having the increased risk of chipping paint, but is that it? will it look different visually? the inside of my case is not painted and is just plain aluminum
Wow, what's all this professional painting talk about? A computer case isn't a car, it doesn't have to go through extreme weather and all that stuff.
I was planning on painting my CM690 soon. It's bare metal on the inside and I was planning to just buy 2 spraying cans of black primer and 2 cans of satin black. So now my questions:
Do I have to sand it if I start spraying on bare metal?
Is this 'proper' ? The end result is of course very dependent on how good you are with painting with some spraying cans and what you put on it. I'm also wondering if this would be the good way to go. The only thing I want to accomplish is a decent looking layer of black in my case that doesn't scratch off instantly. Oh, and it has to be pretty cheap, which it is the way I'm planning it.
ahh, man it's real thick stuff . It's made by zolatone
http://www.zolatoneaim.com/tuffrider/index.html
Very nice work hare... Man do I wish I would have read this guide well before I painted. I didnt do any of the advice the OP and you all adviced.
I used a water based paint... spray can... first mistake. All other mistakes stem from not using sanding, primer, and sealer.
I only let it dry for the recommend hour or two and as soon as I started putting rig together whenever I rubbed or scraped it some paint would come off.... so dissapointing. When I have some more time I'll do it right!
One question: Should I just sand the paint off that I put on? How would I go about doing it now that I have already painted?
personally, I'd use the 1st paint job as a base coat Providing that it's going 2 stick. Did U sand the surface well before paint ?? the antec 900's have a decent sealer coat to begin with .. If U did, I'd wet sand that puppy with 1200 untill it's baby butt smooth and start from there..
Here is a pic of my up n coming quad so far..
HARE ps, what's your 3d mark 06 score with that PC
Thanks hare,
I didnt sand it before... so should I sand it now with 1200 and then apply second coat?
Here is my 3dmark06 suicide benchmark:
Normally I get a little above 18k but this is my best ever
Aww crap. K, if U shot that blue straight on to the case without sanding chances are good you'll have adhesion problems down the line . I can't say exactly when but depending on heat , moisture, etc it could be 2 weeks , 2 months , 2 years .. I'd strip it .. take her down untill it feather edges well " if it will " or OFF to base again. then apply sealer and start over with new paint. what brand auto paint did U use ? nason ? ( junk by the way ) or Dupont " chromabase "
( good stuff ) . RULE 1: SAND SURFACE ALWAYS. if it's going 2 get painted the paint has 2 have some way 2 stick . . example paint a piece of glass and see how well it sticks *LOL* the paint will chip off like potatoe chip flakes .
sand blast the glass 1 st then GOOD LUCK gettin it off. same applies for metal ,aluminum,plastic,vinyl ..and surface and type of paint determine what grit paper U should use. A quality paint job is 90% prep time ,10% spray time . the directions on the paint can will tell U recomended grit to use.
The paint I use is Dupont Chromabase 2 stage . It recommends
using 400 wet or dry For a AUTO finish that's going 2 be weathered ( outside )
$75 ? I got paint , reducer ,activator clear coat , candy blue,transparent base ,flash reducer ,1 roll 3/4 masking tape for 115.00.
enough to paint 2 complete pc's inside and out.
That's not including sand paper ,masking paper,primer,or any labor .. Out the door.price varies on color .This price is for Toyota super white and brite blue candy 50/50 with transparent clear . so $75-100.00 if he was going 2 use The same caliber paint ( no spray can job ) *LOL*
I went to Home dept for the metallic blue case . I bought 5 cans of color @ 5.29 a can and 3 cans of Clear coat 6.00 a can . That got me 7 Full wet coats of color and 3 full wet coats of clear w extra . Flash time between coats was maybe 5 minutes shot early evening outside . So many coats with the clear brought the metallic flakes to the surface to look like it does. As the reducer evaporated in the paint it lifted the flakes looking like I shot the flakes in the clear coat . ( OLD SCHOOL ) Today I'm going 2 go to my favorite paint haunts and take pics of products w prices and post it in a few days.
Then my geek bruthas will be in the know in no time and EVERYBODY will be doing candy ,pearl, base clear ,laquor etc jobs.. In I'll show you my spray rig and how 2 build the same for cheap cheap cheap.
HARE
Very impressed Hare... I'll have time here in a few weeks. Keep us posted. :clap:
k, for high end jobs Like your car mentioned ,mercedes, etc I use GLASSO .
EXPENSIVE but very nice paint . contact a auto paint distributor in your area
and ask for a chip chart. then start hunting through it. U can go to
http://www.190slgroup.com/tech/colors/db5328.JPG. here is the metallic blue
your choice #3 or very close to it .Depends on your video card n monitor settings. It's way close looking through mine. here are the other 2 color examples U gave me. http://www.performancecoatings.dupon...!visitorAction... Here is a video on how to color match .http://pc.dupont.com/VideoFiles/CompleteProcess.mpg..
Find a high end auto dealer and write down the tag info n vin #
of the car with the color U want ,them take that to auto paint distributor
and they will mix it up 4 U.. HARE
oooooooooo k , professional auto painter ?? Me ?? yeah back in 79 untill 91.
I figured ok, dudes are modding cases
and building monsters ,I'll bump it up a notch er 2 . If U pay 115.00 in paint , U want it to stay painted and last .. Proper preparation = Didn't waste your hard earned cash on fancy paint for a &!%*## result.As I said recommended sand paper 400 grit, I use 1200. reason : it's not a car I agree
it's inside and not subject to abuse . U can cheat in several ways because it's a PC case . But if ya want your $ to stay on your case . SAND all sufaces
Or cheat and use self etching primer sealer in the spray can .It's up 2 U mang.
I just go with what I know works the 1st time. painting bare metal ALSO changes your base color ( color ) .. would U install a new CPU and heatsink without using themalpaste ? that's a fair comparison .
Here is what your case will look like using self etching primer /scuff with scotchbrite ( red ) tack n shoot it.
wham bam. total prep time n paint 1 hour .
HARE
I have question about using different colors.
I'm going to paint the inside on my new Stacker red.
But from the pictures that I have seen from cases that are completely red inside, I think it is a bit to much.
So I want parts of it black.
What is the best way to do this?
Start with red and spray the black parts after that? Or start with black.
On some parts it would be easier to start with black, because that way there is a lot less masking to do.
But I think the red will not cover the black easily.
if U shoot the black 1st , your red will look darker.
Well here's my CM690 beauty then, took me a couple days and total time spent is like 8 hours probably.
After thorougly sanding with up to 400 grit:
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244178_sanding.jpg
Primed properly and sanded with 600 grit. Ready to be painted!
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244179_primed.jpg
Painted:
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244180_case1.jpg
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244181_case2.jpg
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244182_case3.jpg
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/244183_case4.jpg
Last thing I did to it was painting (spray cans) and its ultra-shiny and ultra-smooth now.... should I still even add clearcoat? This feels very strong and it seems to be very well attached all over the thing. I'm afraid a clearcoat will just make it more faded and I'll have to start buffing and whatnot else to get this look back to it.
Very nice ^^ what paint did you use? What clear coat? Did you start with 400 grit wet/dry? Looks great!
I started off with 280 grit, dry. I sanded all the rough edges down (payback time for all those times a case injured me!) and did the surface a bit with it too. Then went over to 400 grit and used quite a few sheets on the entire thing. A good trick was getting the perfect amount of primer on it, and then sanding that down with 600 grit, dry. It felt ubersmooth already then. I sprayed over 1.5 cans of 'highgloss' black paint after that, and that's it pretty much. Haven't used a clearcoat yet.
WEll it looks great:up:
What kind of primer and paint did you use. I'm going to do the same thing. I am just stuck on what kind of paint to use. Car paint I cannot find in a can. Or I havent looked hard enough. I did however find nice wet/dry paper. I want to completely strip my case down to nothing and then sand. Did you use a palm sander? I have thought about that due to the large spaces I'll be sanding.
Man, all these cases look sick! Maybe it's time for a new project...
I used a little cork block for the sanding, which i bought at the construction mall for like 50 cents. Wrapping the sandpaper around it and it was pretty neat to use. Certain speeded up the work.
As for the paint, the primer is a very cheap and simple water-based one. The Paint however was a bit more expensive, it's based on alkyd resin and I just looked it up and seems to be very popular for certain applications because it's damn strong. Seems like I made the right choice. :p: It's all just pretty basic dutch brands I picked up at the local construction mall, it's not really professional. I haven't used any stuff that was designed for automotive purposes.
This was my very first paint job by the way. As you can see, it just takes a little bit of common sense, proper materials and patience to get a good result. (When you've done primer or paint, just wait until the next day before you start doing anything to it, like sanding the primer) The advice I've read all over the web certainly helped me a lot.
What I found about the paint: http://home.howstuffworks.com/alkyd-resin-paint.htm
These are some very helpful videos too, although I didn't do things like the wet sanding or clearcoats yet: http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/f...ad.php?t=13235
Here's a pic of all that was needed for this little paintjob:
http://s2d1.turboimagehost.com/t/245304_stuff.jpg
good job mang . exellent idea on the sanding block. using your bare hand can leave finger trails in the primer that ( can ) show up through your finish .
actual sanding blocks are about 3 bucks so U bought yourself a starbucks coffee 4 free *LOL*
man, looks sweet as is . when in doubt don't. spray can paint ( krylon ) ( rustolium ) balls up when U try to wet sand it and your job would be trashed. Using spray can paint shoot your color coats ,let each coat tack up then shoot clear coats if U want while color coats are still wet . I read the article on the paint U used. Try shooting some scrap metal and let it dry , see if it will wet sand . use 1200 with a drop of dish soap and see if it works. then all of us will have yet another product to use ..
I forgot to post these. This was with my first time shooting a HVLP gun. The corners have a few spots and theres one run. Overall good practice. 3 coats of silver and one coat of blue.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1...1686ql3.th.jpg
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7...1683ny3.th.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7200/candypq6.th.jpg
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4...ndy3bt6.th.jpg
Wait... Dont use spray cans? I dont know what else I can do. I have not enough cash to purchase air gun or whatever. If I have to use spray can will you recommend brand of paint and what kind. I want blue inside. Maybe do outside too.Quote:
Originally Posted by hare
If outside it painted black what is proper preperation for painting on already black case?
He didn't say not to use spray cans, he's telling me not to go wet sanding or anything on spray can paint. Which I haven't yet. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughyhunter
Oh, and about the scrap metal thing, I've actually bought a little can of rubbing compound and tried that on a little spot on the bottom of the case.... it actually became more faded because of it. Which kind of means that 1200 grit will just scr*w it up even more. There's no way that 1200 grit paper will be smoother than rubbing compound. So basically, this paint I've used is AWESOME, and I just picked it at random. The highgloss black water-based one was out of stock, I even went to ask at the store clerk if they had any in the back but he told me they needed to be scanned in, so I took the double-priced alkyd resin stuff.... somehow things always turn out in a good way for me.
There's a few 'edges' though where it's not 100% perfect on it.... it's because I was too hasty and didnt use a light coat first, I sprayed on one big thick coat in one go and that turned out all right for most of the thing anyway. I redid the bad spots but the problem is that if you put a second layer on you have to put it all over the surface, tiny little drips from the outer radius of the area the can gets to won't be shiny, it gets rough. If you're using this kinda stuff, spray it only on horizontal surfaces, spray a very light coat first, not shiny at all. Let it dry and then spray over the thick coat. Turned out really well for me, as you can see.
Cool... thanks Xeanor. I'll apply those idea's as well as Hares to my "new" paint job. As this will be the better job that I perform on my Nine hundred than the first. First one just looks terrible as the paint is not strong (due to my lack of prep) and pieces are finally coming off. :down:
U don't have to spend big bucks for a decent spray rig for painting cases. I invested just a shade under 100.00 for compressor,water trap,spray gun ,air brush ,hose and 1 regulator at the gun ... however I did buy a nice 10 foot hose for the air brush , that will add about 24.00 .. as far as rubbing compound vs 1200 grit . rubbing compound ( is ) sand paper in liguid form and comes in grades ( fine,coarse ,medium etc) just like sand paper . polishing compound brings the finish back after wet sanding . that's why it's dull now mang.. get some miguires ultra fine POLISHING COMPOUND and fix it . I'm just trying 2 help here man.. http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsupplydepot/dsd6.aspx lots of choices for lots of applications .. if ya can't trust this face , who can ya ??
*LOL*
@ hare. Your right! Maybe I'm just being cheap by not wanting to invest in compressor. I really ought to but am going to wait until own a house and have a garage. Right now though I'll just be scraping, sanding, priming, painting (I think I'll just have to get some high quality spray can paint... any suggestions?) and then sanding again because I want a clear coat. The instructional video helped me understand more.
One question: spray can brands and type. Exact kind would be nice. I want deep blue inside and out.
Second question: I know I ask a lot :confused: but what about plastic? I have Antec 900 and want entire thing deep, deep blue. How do I paint plastic top without deviating from way it looks compared to metal?
For plastic (although I haven't done it yet) you don't really need to sand anything as far as I know, but if you do only do it very very lightly. I've seen 'plastic adhesion promoter' cans in the automotive section of the store I was, which is for painting plastic parts. (remember, a car is not only metal) and, as far as i know, if you use that before the paint, everything should turn out pretty ok.
The paint of my case is completely dried up now btw.... and it's so damn strong, I can't believe it. If this stuff comes off I'd be damn surprised.
I'm going to be doing some painting on my case in the near future. One tip I learned for using orbital polishers for a polished finish is to use a 100% Cotton shirt rather than the replaceable cotton pads.
They will both do a very good job, it's just that using old shirts is much more economical.
cotton shirt is good , detailers and painters doing high end jobs use a old school cloth diaper ...
ok, I'll say it again . If your going 2 paint it, PREP IT .. for PLASTIC use red scotchbrite and scuff it up good or wash your plastic part real good with AJAX or COMET and be a bit agressive .. Then use correct primer for plastic .. Even if if U prep plastic correctly paint adhesion can still be a pain in the ____ ..off road motorcycle fenders etc are the worst...
food 4 thought . here is a product that looks sweet . It gives a marble effect
on what U shoot. Comes in a whole bunch of colors and it's pretty cheap .:)
Wow, hare. Thats some interesting paint. If i had to do that by hand with a needle tip airbrush i'd rather kill myself :p:
Wow, how the heck does that stuff work? :confused: :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by hare
LOL, i'd join ya HAHA actually , it's ready 2 spray in the can....
the cob web paint is shot over a metallic base . It comes ready out of the can . It shoots almost a silly string dark strip along with a color clear . that's how it gets the marble effect ..so, metallic base , cob web , clear coat , done.another cheap trick is : shoot a metallic base coat ( silver / gold ) and use this canned tinted clear . ready made candy job with a TON less work . Looks like a million bucks .maker is KILLER CANS ..:) the place I use is located in Anaheim CA . PAINT CONNECTION . brookhurst and lapalma . they are way helpful , have a bunch of products just waiting 2 get on a PC case .:up:
and last but not least . HOT HUES systems . Made by Dupont . base , color , clear , pearls, candys , all right on 1 rack for the picking .. This stuff can get a bit pricy..and also . surface cleaner . ( Prep all ) . Works exellent . removes wax, grease, sweat ,oily fingerprints . very cheap for a quart ( $ 7.00 ) . that will last for a Bunch case jobs. Works exellent for cleaning wires ..electrical tape gunk etc also circut boards , fans and so on . a dab on a q tip and detail away .. VERY COST EFFECTIVE.. I'm going 2 hit a SUPER BAD airbrush
center here in a few days and get some shots of Big time products for Long method candy, pearl , Flake ,ghost graphics and more .. bottle pearl, wet and dry , flake small medium and large . too many colors 2 even try to mention . Top of the line airbrush compressors , brushes, aftermarket cups (metal / plastic ) I'd say no less than 1000 stensils @ $ 24.00 a kit . spider webs , skulls, ghosts, pirates, ladies,anything U can think up it's there..
These boy's here are a bit stand offish at 1st but warm up when they see Your truly intersted and wanting to learn about the products and tools . They have a GAZILLION instructional videos, catalongs , Paint products and Manufacturers .. Coast Airbrush In anaheim . Corner of anaheim blvd and lincoln .
Pics will come in a few days from now. saturday or monday I'm shooting for.
:up: Thanks Hare... I'll have to find a store like that... I'm in North Caly though. I'll look in phone book... Maybe I'll just mail you the case and you can do it! ;)
Nah... I'll have the time early May. Stencils sound cool. Maybe a pirate on my 900? I want the deep blue/sparkle. CAnt wait!
I found this on page one of this thread... CAnt wait to see what some of it will do:up:
http://www.alsacorp.com/killercans.htm
YEP, that's the stuff. It's pretty inexpensive too concidering all the time and work it saves. As far as shipping me your case to paint *LOL* I'm buried as is mang ..I'm killin myself to find time 2 work on my new project , well , it's a week old now and about 3 days behind hahahaha .
I have a quick question. I am doing my first paint job and will be painting the exterior of the case a gloss black. I just got some u channel molding in today for around my windows but it's a faded flat black color. Can I add the molding after I do the primer coat and paint it along with the case so it matches the case color or no? I am not sure since the molding is a rubber material.
You should be alright. I would probably scuff the molding up (maybe scotch bright?) prime it separatley with plastic adhesion or rubber primer (wonder if they make something especially for rubber) than add with you are about to do your base coat.Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsoncp21
Dont forget to prep case good... I found again and again that a proper paint job is almost "all" prep... sand, prime, paint, seal! :up:
Thanks. I plan to do plenty of prep work. I had a hard time finding any sand paper over 600grit locally so I had to order it online. I will have primer, sanding block, 800,1200 and 2000grit gloss black and gloss white paint and clear quick dry. Other than rubbing compound I think I have everything covered right?
awesome. Hare, thank you so much. I think I may try the shoe polish and see how that works out since I have plenty of it laying around.
Maybe you have an answer for this question too. What clear coat should I use. The paint I bought was Home depot's painter's touch gloss black so I got the same brand crystal clear matte which says it seals and protects. I thought that was what I needed but I tried it on a scrap peice of metal and it looks like crap. Actually it had more shine with just the gloss black paint before I added the clear coat. Granted I didn't do any sanding or anything as I wasn't concerned about bumps and stuff I just wanted to see if I had the right paint. Any suggestions.
@ nelsoncp21. Maybe you ought to try some rubbing compound, polishing compound and then car wax. Try buffing it out. If you put several layers of the clear on you might want to wet sand with 1000/1500/2000... not that I have experience just what I've read.
You are probably good getting the same kind of clear as your actual paint. I dont know of any clear that doesnt need work once it's shot on. You have to sand it smooth then buff it out. Start with 1000 then move on until you finish with 2000. Then you use rubbing compound (I would actually skip this step and move onto polishing compound) and finish with car wax.
I'll have my project done next week Hare!
@ Hare... I'll have my project done next week. Found a place in NorCal that puts high quality auto paint in a spray can... Using an expensive machine. Anyhow it's a nice pearl blue. Should turn out nice. Got to do some hardcore sanding as the paint before is still on. Guy was telling me to use 180grit on the outside of my Case... what do you think? I have an Antec 900. :shrug:
cool thanks. I thought I could get a waterdown version of the finished product so to say without waxing, another words it would just be grity or unsmooth but I didn't realize it wouldn't have a shine at all without sanding. I didn't want to put all that effort into sanding a peice of scrap. that's what I get for be lazy I guess.
^^ Yeah... to get the clear to shine takes some effort. Not much more than some rubbin though:up:
Has anyone tried this stuff... I saw it at the auto store. Cheap... man $15 out the door. Thought about it but didnt know how it would turn out. All it is: Base, color, clear. Three easy steps for cheap!
maybe some one could assist me....I printed 4 sheets of paper to make a stencil and I taped the mesh with painters blue tape already.
Problem is I never done this before, I'm learning as I go along.
I'm trying to do something like this, I did this in Photoshop rather crudely so please excuse my artwork:
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/9165/dbbfsbk3.th.gif
can someone help please so I can paint this week before the weather sucks again.
advance thanks
Hare, take this as a compliment. You posting all that stuff here is making my fingers itch to get my spray gun out again. I might actually get off my @$$ and do the Chip Foose inspired paint job i've always wanted to do.
Cpl, i'm no expert but being a nub, i would cut out and make a stencil and then lay over your mesh, or could use some spray adhesives to fix your stencil on your mesh then spray over it...
again, i'm no expert... and also, i have no clue what it involves to have it airbrushed...
iirc, the mesh on the 830/832 is not flat... that might make it trickier...
on a side note, i read somewhere on these boards bout a dude sticking his primer'd part in the household oven... then repeat for the coats of paint and glosss.
is this recommended?
aside from the paint fume smell that lingers in the oven... is there any health hazards? any paint residue that can be stuck on the oven?
or all i have to deal with is some smelly bread?
@ kinghong1970, I was looking at your builds. My compliments! :up:
This isn't exactly related to paint, but is it ok to drill through anodized aluminum?
tyvm... have to finish my 832 tho... been putting that off too long...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughyhunter
yes, absolutely OK to drill through em.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadmos
i like to use a punch to mark the center so the tip does not travel when drilling but it can dent the surrounding areas if you dont counter it on the back side.
drill em, jig saw em...
but make sure you have some masking tape to cover up the areas as the anodized surfaces scratch very easily
Cool, thanks. :up:
K, I have a question unrelated to any of the paint conversations.
I bought this case at a pc salvage yard for $10.00 about 6 months ago with a antec 350 watt 20 pin atx power supply.It's a antec but I have no clue what series or model .. It looks like a TX 630
but it's not LOL and it looks like a SX 840 too. Thing is Mine has 2 USB and a fireiwire port behind a nameplate that niether case mentioned has ..
what is this thing ?? CURIOUS !!
k, I'm professional auto applications big shops They do have a booth
that the car or truck rolls into. It has several rails on each side to BAKE the paint with UV lights. This causes the paint to lay out better and improves adhesion. . Drawback is : too much heat and your body work will shrink and or all spot putty used will show into the finish AND or the paint will sag right off the panels. same thing he's doing in a shade tree manor. as far as fumes I wouldn't do it in my house .. Unless U wanna get WHOOHOO !! depending on the paint used Some years ago it could kill U .. IMRON 4 one . reason : introducing the activtor into the paint creates an ICyanetic gas . same thing they use in the GAS CHAMBER. dryers force the solvents out of the paint =
VERY SICK , Imron headaches ,and nerve disorders years down the road .USE CAUTION .. :2cents:
Ok, i wont bake my painted stuffs in my house any more...
dang... i knew i shouldn't have done that...
oooh... colors.... i'm seein colors... :shocked:
Oh yeah, I've read that post....I have a bet, he is single...no wife on this planet would let a husband use the oven for paint job:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
As far as the stencil hack I'm doing, I'm doing just transferring the drawing now on the blue tape, then from there, I will make my cut outs.
My concern is do I use a self etching primer, or just a regular primer.
How many coats though?
Which is a better primer for my Rustoleum Red Paint?
Would the end result come out?
I just realized its red on black mesh, with red LED glowing from the inside of case. Would that defeat the red paint, or would it glow over the black?
Stay Tuned :up:
CPl, did you strip the original paint?
i think it's best you expose the metal then use a etching primer...
best and easiest way to strip paint would be to take it to a place where they sandblast it...
else, some elbow grease time...
but then hold on... that means you need to do 2 colorings... hmmm....
i really dont know bud...
hey, in Home Depot, dont they sell those wall paper like films that come with sticky back?
but then again... it's not a flat surface you're working wth...
geesh...
I was more like wanting to keep the original black paint, and strip the areas that I'm going to paint...I'll probably used elbow grease...I believe they are on sale for $Priceless/gallon..:D
I thought about those wallpaper too, but like you said, its not flat, bound to have bubbles....
we'll see if weather prevails.
where's the "Cross your finger smiley"?
:D
Yes it is possible. However I wouldnt touch any wet/dry paper below 2000. Only until the orange peel is gone though.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealRedRaider
Just finished priming. Sanded with 600 for an hour. Still got lot's of sanding to do... it was gettin windy. My PSU cable hole was hard to get perfectly oval as you can tell.
going against the grain, again...
http://i.pbase.com/g3/86/2386/2/96383931.E1Juo6NI.jpg
first primer coat:
http://i.pbase.com/g3/86/2386/2/96383938.5mswxFjq.jpg
2nd primer coat
http://i.pbase.com/g3/86/2386/2/96383941.6i1oyHW3.jpg
1st red coat:
http://i.pbase.com/g3/86/2386/2/96383950.FfnGivVD.jpg
It's an early Chieftec office case model.Quote:
Originally Posted by hare
I have a question. When sanding after the primer coat, where ever the edge of the metal is like at the edge of the side panel it sands all the primer off and I can see the black from the panel underneath. It's not the bare metal but it sands all the primer off just right at the edge probally cause the edge is rounded. Does this mean I have to spray primer again cause no matter how hard I try it does it at every edge. So will I be ok to go ahead and put the first coat of paint on?
That sucker is expensive though. It was like $13 at the hardware. I just got a grinding stone bit and attempted to smooth it out. Oh well.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealRedRaider
What I have found to be most effective is to get that old paint off. I used 180 grit wet to do this. Then use your Etching primer, then us the high build primer. Only sand the high build with 600 grit... unless you put to much on. Then you can use 400 grit. If you are seeing the metal on the edges just quit sanding near the edges. If you really took it down too much around the edges maybe another coat of primer wouldn't hurt. However to much is hard to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsoncp21
Also I found that on plastic a sealer is required. I didn't use a sealer and my primer bled through the paint.
I used 1200 grit and 2000 on the primer. It's not down to the metal just to the original paint and it's just a thin line on the edge. I'd really rather not start all over again and sand everything off if I don't have to. I have alot of real estate I am working with here!
Oh yeah... dont start over... just make sure it's smooth. I wouldnt even worry if it got down to the metal. Mine sure did. Once I put the coat on it didnt affect it though. You should be good. Just paint:up:
Alright all... I've been dying to post this. I just finished my mod and re-paint. Yes you heard it right. I had originally painted my Antec 900 (seen a few pages back on this thread) and just finished.
I started off by stripping everything down to the bear metal with 180grit wet. Once I got it down to nothing I used high build primer. Come to find out I should have used self etching primer first then the high build (oh well).
After I sanded the primer (2 coats worth) down with 600 grit wet I started my deep blue pearl paint job. Used smooth even strokes... So I got the paint from a auto paint dealer here in town. Professional paint in a can! Yeah... you heard me right. He put his professional paint in an aerosol can. Charged me $15 a can... Not bad huh?
Then the clear coat (after 3 coats of paint)... I used a whole can of this stuff. Got it from the same guy. I sanded the clear down with 2000 grit.
Finishing product: Oh yeah... used black gloss for interior. Got it from autozone.
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Man that professional paint came out looking great. Nice color, I wish I cpould get my hands on some of that paint in a can.:clap::clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughyhunter
I have a question and hope someone here can help me since some of you have more experience painting than i do. I usually end up using the wrong paint and mess up w/e i paint lol.
I'm looking at buying something like this. I have a p182 in the gun metal color and want to paint the grill to match the gun metal case color as close as possible. I have no idea what paint i should be using on this or anything. Can someone please help me on this before i go and buy it?
How difficult is it to paint something like the attached image? It would be at least 4 inches wide. Also, what about painting words? I could make a stencil I suppose.
And what's the difference between airbrushing and just regular spray painting? Advantages/disadvantages to each?
http://www.toomanywords.net/wp-conte...ingtoncaps.PNG
The easiest way is to make a stencil, then airbrush that logo one color at a time. If you want the wings to stand out more, you can spray the head first then clear coat, then do the wings. This will make the wings stand out more.
Spray painting usually means you use a canned paint, and airbushing is when the pigment and the delivering medium is separate.
Canned paint is easier to use, but can be quite limited with what you can do. Air bushing will give you a lot more flexibility, like fading but requires a lot more practice. Another advantage of air bushing is that you can mix your own colors if you can't find the color you want in a can.
Hope that answered your question.
EDIT: For the stencil use the paper for water paintings, spray a small amount of water onto it and it will stay on the surface, while not leaving and residue on the surface. However, do remember to remove the stencil before the paint dries or it will stick.
I gotta question here lol. Im painting my case flat black... do I need clear coating?
Only if you want it glossy. I've never seen or heard of flat clear coat. Although you probably could clear coat it then wet sand it with something like 1000 grit. But what's the point of using a clear coat if you want flat black?Quote:
Originally Posted by shellshock91
I thought you needed clear coat on everything that you paint......
I have everything I need to make holes and paint. What are the procedures I need to take when beginning to paint and painting?
This thread has all the info that you'll need. Just scroll back to page one and start reading! :yepp::p:Quote:
Originally Posted by shellshock91
Please don't make us repeat ourselves!
I painted Stacker 830 with truck-bed liner black---then four coats of clear coats around the areas that will receive a lot of scratching as I upgrade....those areas so far are not flaking. :rolleyes:
A: to much accelerator = flat clear coat LOLOL or
B: it's called "matte" rustolium makes it. however flat is flat . no clear needed.
guys, what can i do to aboid the dust?? itīs everywere....
Wet Sand between coats with slightly warm water with a small bit of dish soap.
For those interested in really good paint in a can, Killer Cans are on sale this week from Alsa. Two for one.
anyone know a good way to strip off an enamal paint like out of spray cans for models from a power coat but leave the powder coat intact?
Excellent guide. Thank You
Do I need to put primer first on an aluminum casing?:confused:
I usually use self etching primer, gives a better chance of ahdesion.Quote:
Originally Posted by theodredge
Some people just sand tho.
I need to paint strip an anodized part of my lian li casing, whats the safest way to do this ?