I got pics but I'm not going to pst them right now because of a bout of extreme lazyness.
Am leaktesting atm. Still need to do the internal ducts, the filter armature and put the drives in the HD box.
Also: drunk again! :D
Printable View
I got pics but I'm not going to pst them right now because of a bout of extreme lazyness.
Am leaktesting atm. Still need to do the internal ducts, the filter armature and put the drives in the HD box.
Also: drunk again! :D
daam, do you do other things than drink and play oblivion?
btw is the fans going in front of the rad?
no, theyre in pull.
ok. so the white shroud aint for the fans. just for fresh air to the rad! so how are you going to mount the fans?
You'll see tmorrow. I got pics but I cba to edit/post them.
Having fun with my RD-30 atm, even @ 15v the water is going so stupidly fast its not bleeding v fast at all lol.
Would pinching the tubing with a clamp to slow flow rate help bleed bubbles?
Good luck with the build!
- Discordia
Yeah, but I havent got any flat clamps to squeeze the tube.
Its mostly bled anyway, its just that its taking a couple of days instead of the couple of hours it took with my 50Z.
I did have a few clamp-related leaks... old jubilee clamps lose shape. I'm tempted to try the plastic ones for my next build, but they dont make them big enough for the 3/4 barbs on my RD and my 5/8 T-Pieces.
One moh time! UPDATE!
hehe. you are getting more getto than me... i also use cardboard\tape.
so you got a shroud on both sides of the rad now? or did you just turn it around?
Yup, both sides.
Anyone ever played a child's game where you had to disgnose an illness on this man and if if poked the wrong place all his internal organs flew out?
Thats what it felts like when I was putting everything in the case earlyer on.
Stacker looks big, aye, but by the time I was done there was barely enough space to tuck the t-line into.
I've done a quick power-up test and it fired up and all, will reconnect the 30-odd cables my PC is jacked into tomorrow and see what the result of all my hard work is like...
Looking forward to your updates. I got a question for you. How loud is the Iwaki @ 15v?
Quieter than my 50Z... when I was leak testing with the fans on I couldnt hear it over the fans, and theyre quieter than my hard drives. Its kind of a deep rumbling hum, my soundproofing will eat it right up I think.
It does have a deep thrumming vibration also, so you really want some of petra's gel... unless you plan to run it @ 24v, in which case the heat will melt the gel, as I found out.
Omg :o
Its up and running!
I didnt smash/fry/break/drown/messup any hardware! omg! who am I??!?! imposter!!!
jokes aside. I'm currently dual-priming away @ 39c, with 21.5c amb.. and the D14s @ 4.5v :lol2:
These fans rule, theyll work down to 3-3.5v. Ive set minimum voltage @ 4.15 to prevent any of them from stopping. They do have a slight blade-tip growl @ 12v but theyre silent @ 7v, and they really pull a heck of a lot of air though the front of my case.
T-Balancer BigNG rules++. I cannot define just how awesome it is to have fully analogue, automated, programmable fan-speed regulation.
Pump noise? Lol. Soon as I switched on my 5HDs, any slight rumble from the RD disappeared. Loudest thing in my PC right now? External HD.
I am hereby declaring Project Sloth to be a success, and I furthemore declare that I shall never go back amongst the 120mm-fanned peons! =P
And now, a little final picture to piss off all you bling-sluts! =P
Sloths blend well into their surroundings, which means people bother them less, and they can be lazyer ^_^
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2710/stealthyaz4.jpg
Wow that is one heck of a build, Great work.
Btw what kinda temp do you get if you put all of those fans up full blast @ 12v? Just curious.
CONGRATULATION!!! :toast: :toast: :toast:
Looks nice :)
We're you buy the fans from?
Bought the fans from a dude on ebay germany called silencio-777. He ships to north amerika if you ask, iirc. He's got (usually) low/med/high 120/140mm yates and low-speed 80/92mm yates also.
Theyre not cheap though. I think your best option in north amerika might be 140mm aerocool streamliners.
Not sure what temps I'd get @ 12v. I'll give it a go tomorrow maybe. Heck, if its sunny and warm again theyll probably go there on their own.
Damn I need a T-Balancer BigNG. :slobber:Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
Group buy time...:banana:Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
looks like $hit and you should throw that thing in a pool of acid........................................LOL j/k looks nice man...good job!:toast: :woot: :clap: :banana:
:rofl: Let me guess creidiki...its what's on the inside that counts, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
Congrats on the build! What do you credit the good load temps to...the new pump? I have a D5 and dual priming my load goes up to about 44C when the ambient is around 20C.
about eaby:
so hes on ebay germany. does that mean i cant find him @ ebay.com just ebay.de?
why is it like that? really a pain in the ass, especially since i dont understand german
scheise!
ah stuff it Crediki :-P
Looks god, and glad it's up and running, FINALLY! :-P
you goung to post a pick of the internals and case in my Stacker thread?
Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
That's what is known in the car world as a "Sleeper"! :woot: :clap: :clap:
Nah, it works fine from ebay.co.uk, so it should work fine from elsewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by eXa
So am I lol, so am I :DQuote:
Originally Posted by phelan1777
Link meh and ill posteh.
You got that right... if it dont get me silence or performance I dont do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
As to where.. well I've upgraded radiator, pump and popped off the IHS. And that test was done when the TIM had been sitting there for all of like 20 minutes. I'm sure it'll only get better.
thnx ^_^Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinch
Buon lavoro. Congratulazioni da me.
Pardon my spelling in Italian but its been way too long.
Grazie ^_^
Crediki,
Here is hte linkage to my Stacker thread:
Stacker Slacker
Congratulations m8! One very nice work! :up:
That reminds me of the work i need to do with my loop. 140mm fans, bigger tubing and maybe painting case. But all that after my summer vacations... :p:
Really looking forward to some results there... looks good :)
Well, 7-8c idle-load delta w. rad fans @ 4.25v is pretty good for now.
I'll try jacking them up to 12v when i nump to 3.0GHz :)
Did you see a nice jump when removing the IHS? Mine is still on, and I found out why my CPU is such a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: when it comes to temps. I used this little tool which monitores both core temps individually and saw why core 1 always bumped out of Prime... because it was way hotter than core 2 or the normal reading from the board.
Just curious about your results there :)
That little tool reports idle temps below coolant temps for me on core #0, so I wouldnt trust it much if I were you :)
As for adv. regarding removing the IHS? Well, I used to have a 9-10c delta with D12SL-12s @ 9.5v.
Now I have 6-7c with D14SM-12s @ 4.25v.
How much of that is down to the Increase in rad size? Pump upgrade? IHS removeal? Stronger fans? Air ducts? (my 120.2 was rebreathing a lot of warm air from inside the case)
Your guess is as good as mine.
Uncapping temp gains mostly depend on how old your CPU is and how long/hot its been running.
TIM1 on my FX-53 was absolutely cooked, like old broken pottery, loads of gaps in between the hardened pieces and dusty. I saw like a 9c decrease when I uncapped that.
On my 170 it was still slightly damp.
from 9-10 to 6-7 is a very nice gain in delta... good job m8!
Yes, espcially with fans running @ less than 1/2 the voltage :lol2: *hugs his rig*
Yeah, well. Too many changes made... still a nice gain :)
And yes, you're right about the "absolute" temps it reports. For me it was just intreresting to see that core 1 got significantly warmer than core 2, which would be an explanation why it always bumped out of Prime... I'll check if that goes away with removing the IHS.
my cores diff 6-7c acording to coretemp :( would explain why one core always crap out at a certain temp which i thought was around 50c with -3 ofset = 53c
if coretemp is reading that diff right it would be more like 59-60 give or take what the sensor calibration is of by. going to be fun to se what happens with a decent watersetup and lower temps :)
It can't be too accurate, but at least those differences from core 1 and 2 are interesting I'd say.
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but you have 2 drive bays free with the 120.3 mounted, correct?
The real question is this... how quiet is it... (sorry Im much too lazy and dont have the time to read through the whole thread)
btw awesome work creidiki.. the 140mm fans look pretty sweet... and the rest.. .well I dont think I need to say much about the rest of the equipment.
If you guys are looking for 140MM fans, Aerocool makes them with a 140 to 120MM adaptor. I have one in the front of my V2000 - works great at 7v.
http://aerocool.us/p-accessory/stram...treamliner.htm
That's the ones i want to put in my PA. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by dnottis
Of course when i'm not too lazy and broke from spending money on other plans... :p:
just thought about something, wouldnt it be better with 1\2 tube between t-line and pump, in the same way 7\16 is better than 1\2 on 1\2 fittings?
did you buy only the t-line and nothing else from vcore.dk?
Don't ban me for digging up this thread, but criediki, can you tell me what material your sound dampening foam is? Where did you purchase it?
Thanks.
It looks like Akasa Paxmate or accoustipack.
@joe: Tried the 140 to 120mm adaptors, they're too big to mount on a PA :( Needs some custom mounting to put them on...
A custom shroud shouldn't be to hard to fabricate from aluminum or tin.
Normally not. I'll try to get an alumumium/stainless stell one, I'm curious about the results of 140mm fans in 1:1 comparison to 120mm fans.
Thanks m8. I know it. The space between the fans on the PA isn't enough for 140mm ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
In my opinion u can keep the middle fan holes as they are and drill new ones for the other two.
Results are allways welcome btw... :)
Radical_53: Did you ever get to remove the IHS from your 170? Did you gain anything? When I'm looking at everest ultimate core 1 get 15-20c hotter than core 2, which may also explain why core 1 always fail before core 2 when dual priming... That's with one of my x2 3800+, with the other one it's more or less the same for both cores. It's very temptating to remove it :D
just stumbled into this thread by accident, gotto say really nice jop,:toast: fellow stacker worshiper.:D