Have you looked at event viewer for errorcodes? I had same thing caused by uTorrent. If you have there on that list event ID 4226 then you need patch for that, newest is v2.23d.Quote:
Originally Posted by graham_h
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Have you looked at event viewer for errorcodes? I had same thing caused by uTorrent. If you have there on that list event ID 4226 then you need patch for that, newest is v2.23d.Quote:
Originally Posted by graham_h
can i run a P4 520 on the P5W DH Deluxe after the mods (any)
yes, i understand that there are mods shown out there. but this weekend (after the move) i will be putting up step-by-step instructions on completing the vdimm and vMCH mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by managerman
kris
is it me or the board don't like anything except 1:1 ?
is there anyone else having the problem of max FSB drops after mods
zulusman has a similar problem, i wouldnt know much about this.Quote:
Originally Posted by 450tantrum
I've been running on 4:5 almost 100% of the time I've had this board (couple of weeks now)Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
i haven't had any problems so far.
@FCG, please give us those step-by-steps! I've never vmodded anything and I'll definitely need those instructions. Thank you sooooooo much FCG!!!
bios ?Quote:
Originally Posted by m0da
started out with 0502 > 0078 > 0701Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
all worked fine
wich one is the best ?
i've the 0078 and 0088 I want to try
well for my pentium 550 i think 0078 was the best. but i dunno which bios is the best for conroe.
@450tantrum
I got problem with fsb drop. But had it before and after mods...
So it`s not a mod problem i think.
Dunno what it is, really....
It would be nice to see a vdroop mod guide too.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by freecableguy
It would be good to get above 2.4v Vdimm
FCG will be posting up step-by-steps of vDimm and vMCH mods soon. these'll get you well above 2.4v.Quote:
Originally Posted by gotheb1ues
great sounds good. can't waitQuote:
Originally Posted by m0da
Hi guys,
I'm trying to perform the hotflash in an Abit AW8 mobo, and when i run flash.bat, i'm getting the following error:
bios has no flash information..
And then it just exits out of the flash program.
Should i try it with the Award flash program, or maybe even try using winflash?
EDIT: I've also tried with with AWDFLASH now and it just gets stuck with "Please wait!!!" flashing on the screen.
Nice thread thanks guys.
Hey guys, this is my story> I bought a P5W DH Deluxe and an X6800. Both arrived last tuesday, i set my compouter together and clicked the button and the motherboard wouldnt post. I called ASUS and had them send me a new BIOS Chip because i found out the one shipped to me was a 0502. THe new one came, (with no sticker on it) so I'm not positive which ver. it is but they told me it was the most current not in beta. it came yesterday, i plugged it in and NO LUCK. The **** will hit the fan trust me. I freaked and went berzerk. So I RMA'ed the whole board back to ZZF and a new one (same model/type) should arrive to me tomorrow. If it has the 0502 chip in it ill take it out and put the newly shipped one into it. But you can imagine how nervous I am. What if it doesnt work again!!! Ill shoot something. That means it is my CPU!!! It will be impossible to find a replacement, unless you think Intel would replace it for me. Trouble is that A) I dont have another CPU to test on the board. 2) I dont have another board to flash the chip in. and D) There is no place that will be able to run a diagnostic for me with the Conroe! What should I do if the new board does not fix the problem?
A, 2, and D... ha
okay. id suggest just finding another 775 chip somewhere and using the asus ez-backup from the bios (the simplest way imo) and flashing the chip (again).
this is something really important, just get your hands on another 775.
i doubt it's your cpu.
if you really cant do that, there was a hotflash method or something like that on the first page of this thread by FCG. he knows what he's doing, just follow that and hope for the best.
I had similar problems when I first setup my 6800 and DH. I had to ram the first board even after fashing to 7901 with a celeron because of general socket failure, but I also found that when setting up the new bios I had to unplug the PS, take the battery out, leave the clear jumper on for a while and then re-connect up everything and then post. Did you get anything when you started up the new bios? Any fans, lights? If so, it is altogether possible you had a short (like i did) or even that the sink wasn't making good enough contact even though it may have appeared to. Do the above procedure even after replaceing the bios. If the new board has the same trouble, then Intel will replace the cpu if it's retail, but it may take them a while since it still isn't oficially released and when I thought mine was dead at first I called them and they said it could be some weeks. your retail supplier would probably get them back in stock before Intel RMA would. By the way, the chances are pretty goo they send you a 701 bios board. Asus sent resellers out new 701 bioses if they didn't ship with 701's already.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunkylover21
Guys there is a new beta bios as i can see here but it's currently down.Have anyone flashed 0901?
I will try as soon as its available
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlock7
updated CCU microcode
- Crash of the BIOS with SATA CDROM repaired
- does not correct appearing announcement of the FSB: RAM of divisor in the AI booster
- Over clocking profile feature
My max fsb droped to 0 last days...dunno why.
Had somme strange coloers on the mb - silver->brown.
Need to mode-off mb and rma it... first just had to check if its cpu or mb.
So cu soon
Nicely done :clap:
However I have a question about the mods. Will it be necessary to do the mods if I'm only gonna go with high end air cooling as Tuniq. From what I've heard it wont be safe to touch those high voltages unless you plan to use more extreme cooling.
i think you'd be good doing just the nb and sb cleaning mods atm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsson85
with air cooling you shouldnt be pushing your voltages toooooo high.
Alright My mobo is officially ready :D
Thx
When will vMCH mod be available?
i don't know. im waiting for that too!!
so how long for the vdimm mod? can't wait. 2.4v is not enough.
My asus p5w dh is not working properly and on my very first boot i saw a flash by USB posts
After that everyboot has Powered On but i get no Video, and no BEEP :confused:
What could be wrong? ...is this because i havent flashed the bios?????
FCG, we need that vmods badly, I don't understand a thing about vmch/vdimm from pics that kyosen posted !
I'll second that:hitself:Quote:
Originally Posted by zbogorgon
Not the bios, I had the exact same thing, changed the bios chip for a new one with 0701 and it was the same. Tried the usual, got nothing. Sent it back as DOA :caution:Quote:
Originally Posted by 450tantrum
:dammit:Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
This is going to be my second RMA this week.....first RAM now Mobo
i second that second!Quote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
VMCH Mod tutorial for all the XS community will be very helpfull :toast:
how did u flash the bios without videoQuote:
Originally Posted by fornowagain
I'd like to try a new bios before i send it out
I just picked up my board :)
http://gallery.weyland.be/v/Computer...e/P5WDHDeluxe/
Yeah :)
Asus sent me a 0701 bios chip free.Quote:
Originally Posted by 450tantrum
I'm almost there ... but what should I do with this?
http://gallery.weyland.be/d/9803-2/DSC02399.JPG
Should I leave it? Or remove it and replace it with proper cooling paste?
Mate, are you using a PS2 Keyboard? If so, junk it and try a USB KB. I faced the exact same issue. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 450tantrum
umm i left mine there... i thought it was way too thick to replace with some as5.Quote:
Originally Posted by selder
FCG are we supposed to replace it? and if so, with how much (thick) paste?
If anyone is interested I did a thermal IR scan on a P5W DH on the bench doing a torture test. It has a 930 CPU OC'd to 3.75 Ghz at 1.35 Vcore. Ambient is 20 degrees C. It's using the stock Intel HSF with Q-fan off (ie max RPM). There is no other active airflow since the board's on the bench.
Here some of the hot spots:
Marvel ethernet chip - 48
Southbridge - 47 (center of heatsink)
Northbridge - 40 (center of heatsink)
Mosfets - 40
Heatpipe/heatsink area closest to I/O's - 35
Silicon Image controller - 40
Everything else is <35 degrees.
CPU measures 47 degrees from Asus Probe.
I'll probably use the OP's recommendation for the SB but leave the NB alone. That Marvell chip get's a lillte toasty but I'm not sure is it's an issue once the MB is in a case with decent airflow. I also think it's wise to remove those silly decorative ASUS covers. (especially on the SB)
UPDATE:
I removed the SB HS, cleaned it up, applied AS5 and repeated the test. The SB now measures 46.5. It looks like about 1.5 degrees reduction come from this method.
aww man... i aleady sent the mobo out....but i'll definately keep that in mind....but hey how did u figure that was the problem because i wasnt getting beepsQuote:
Originally Posted by Super Nade
New BIOS out 0801. Non-beta.
Does 0801 have DFI like cmos reloaded as the 0901 has?
The images are done.Quote:
Originally Posted by zbogorgon
Many thanks to kyosen and FCG.
Vdimm
http://bird.zero.ad.jp/~zan89925/p5wdh_Vdimm.jpg
Vmch
http://bird.zero.ad.jp/~zan89925/p5wdh_Vmch.jpg
thank you for the images!
THX A LOT !!!
modding a board soon (ill send the mod pics)
Quote:
Originally Posted by selder
Leave it alone. If u remove, u need to band heat-piepe, becose of the difrent distant betwean mosfets and thier cooler.
hmmm what bios version should one choose...leave it at 701, change it to 801 or try beta 901.
Am I way off if I say that we should prefer a higher temperature on the heatsinks when we change cooling paste? I mean the paste doesnt have anything in it that makes anything colder, it only conducts heat from the core to the heatsink. And better conduction should mean higher temperature on the heatsink and lower on the core? Heat cant just disapear.Quote:
Originally Posted by davefr
you're not wrong/way off. but this is the ideal situation. less heat on the components that we want cooled and more heat on the components that can take it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsson85
I measured at the base of the heatsink right on top of where the chip was.Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsson85
If I increased the efficiency of the chip to heatsink interface area then it's effectively dissipating heat consistently across the entire heatsink vs. dissipating heat in a mosaic pattern across the interface. Wouldn't that result in less temperature at the base since it's dissipating across a wider area?
Took it off and the heatsink gets a bit hotter now, so it's still transfering heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulusman
If you look at the heatsink from the side you can see it touching the chips even without the rubber pad. Looks to me like it's touching all chips, checked with a ruler to see all chips were equally high, and they were...
IIRC thermodynamics, its like this: The temperature of the heatsink is in direct proportion to the amount of energy in Watts that it can dissipate, its a constant (within a range) called themal resistance TR=C/W. Given that boundary conditions remain the same (like air flow and heatsink surface area), for the same thermal load improving (reducing) the thermal resistance will lower the load temperature. Improving the thermal conducting interface (reducing system TR) will increase the heatsink temperature as more energy passes across the interface and out of the load. Heatsink temperatures are a gradient, hottest at the conducting interface.Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsson85
Like what you said.:p:
That's the whole idea behind looking at idle/load temp differences between different heat sinks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsson85
Heat Accumulation (on the chip) = Heat generation - Heat dissipation
Heat generation scales slightly, but dissipation grows linearly with the difference in surface and ambient temperature with a slope depending on area and heat transfer coefficient (we increase this coefficient by applying low thermal resistance stuff, like AS5).
When we talk about stable temps, we're showing what conditions at steady state are, which is when heat accumulation = 0. So it's all about how low we can get this steady state temperature to be.
in short..we want to get the heat away from the chips and into thin air ASAP
I admit to be thermodynamically challenged however if you had the "ideal" heat sink wouldn't it absorb the chip's junction heat and dissipate it into the air such that the heat sink itself is remaining at ambient. (ie since it's 100% efficient at transferring heat, then it's not absorbing any residual heat).Quote:
Originally Posted by [G.N.U.]Fragman
If that's true, then as a heat sink becomes more efficient then it's surface temperature is being reduced. Conversely as it becomes less efficient isn't it absorbing vs transferring heat to the ambient.
In my above test. Is a 1.5 degree drop reflecting improvement or degradation of heat sink transfer efficiency? However I think the real answer is that's it's an insignificant change.
the heat sink itself can never be at ambient, since it relies on a temperature difference to transfer heat to passing air. the absolute best heat sink would be nearly the same temperature as the surface it's attached onto to cool, as that would mean that the only thermal resistance comes from the transfer of heat between the heat sink and air.
I don't quite understand the vMHC mod, is "grand" = "ground"?!?! and if yes, is that a common ground, or is that the "ground" potential of that one chip?
Sorry guys if this has been answered before but with the removal of the heat pipes, do you need to replace the thermal pad under the radiator looking thing? My board is in pieces now and I only have that last step to do.
I'm not sure about this. This question gave rise to the thermodynamic discussion.Quote:
Originally Posted by J@mmer
If you decide to take it off, make sure the base is still making full contact with the components.
Yeh looks like it's just thermal padding that covers the MOSFETS. I think I'll leave them and reuse the same ones.
Oh BTW... thanks FCG for this great guide. :)
Just finished your guide.
So I'm about to watch a movie and I notice the liquid in my system is especially pale. I open the box and the pump is making a weird noise, and there is a leak in the bottom. There are reasons for this happening that I'd rather not go into. So then and there I was like "THAT'S IT! BACK TO AIR I GO!" After all, it is just my 805, it's just holding me over until Conroe (by then I'll have phase).
So I remembered the guide, something I wasn't going to do until the next board pull for phase installation, but I figured why the hell not.
Did the wireless removal. No wireless devices.
AS5 on the North and South. I'm used to this procedure, but the tip on the screwdriver off the IDE port REALLY helped.
The back of my board is indeed blue. Sorry about the confusion before.
I revamped my CCFL lighting... the bulbs are now invisible. Only the light you can see. Looks even better than it did before... much more subtle and controlled.
Fixed some minor wiring issues, and removed the chassis intrusion crap. Now the only things you can see are the 24pin humongo and the SATA cable. The rest is hidden... ALL of it! Most behind the board. Case looks soooooo clean...
I was impressed by the stock heatsink mounting. Kinda cool. Relies a lot on plastic, but other than that, very creative and easy.
So anyway... South appears down almost 10*C (EDIT nevermind... nowhere near). Who knows about the North, but I know it's much cooler than it was before. I really wish the board manufacturers would spend the extra $.25 per board and use even an AS5 knockoff instead of white-out.
What are typical idle/load temps on an 805 with the stock cooler? I'm idling at about 50*C... full load? WOW. 86*C. That's only 1.35v in BIOS, too. Does the stock fan suck THAT BAD? I'm sitting at 3.4ghz right now trying to play it safe... I mean, real voltage is 1.3v. 'Stock', according to box, is 1.25-1.4v. So how on earth did 1.4v get it hot enough to shut down?
EDIT ok wow I feel dumb I thought you turned the little things after you pushed down to 'lock' it in place (the push down seemed to easy) but those actually RELEASE the heatsink... so I had... very little pressure. Temps still really high/bad. Didn't even go down 10*C. How hot is too hot for the 805?
Did you check if the IHS is making a proper contact with the HSF? With stock HSF, I often saw like only half the IHS (in the center) showing proof of contact with HSF. I'd also use somewhat generous amount of artcic silver.
My 930 did 3.9GHz with stock cooler / stock Vcore, the load temp was close to 75C. Changed to Thermalright Ultra-120 and bumped the Vcore by 0.025V, the result was 4.1GHz and max load temp 60C.
ok i just ran STOCK voltage (like, AUTO) (which UNDERVOLTS like hell) and got 70*C max. so what i dont understand is, how can the box say 1.25-1.4v, when im running lower than that and getting 70*C? if i use like 1.4v by CPU-Z, the computer WILL shut down. im giong to try a remount today, but come on...
1.325v in BIOS: 80*C during orthos.
about 1.26v in CPU-Z. this is just pathetic.
It says twice to take out the CMOS chip, is this a typo?
"First, pop the CMOS chip out using a tiny flat-head screwdriver."
"Now, boot the operating system with the boot disk we just created. When you're at the DOS prompt.....take the CMOS chip out of the running system"
The guide is actually correct. It might sound somewhat harsh to take out the CMOS chip when its running - but that is the process of hotflashing :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ruler22
Take out the chip from the running (temporary) rig and insert your Asus P5W DH dlx bios chip in the running (temporary) rig and flash away...
-k0nsl
When I read it the first time it sounded like you didnt need another system.....
and if you do need another system (thats what I am getting from the temporary rig reference in your reply) does it have to be another LGA775 board, or any board? Sorry, im just a little confused, I dont have my board yet, but I want to understand this before I get it
I have a SOYO kt-400 mobo, im assuming since it is older and AMD, I can't use it right?
If I can't use it( which im assumign I cant) is there anyway around it, short from having Asus ship me a new BIOS?
Nice guide
Maybe add
Put a fan on the nb and connect to the board connector who is reserved for it.
use the asus wifi mounting to mount your mod's on the left side of the board
like this
http://rol-co.nl/images/asusmod.jpg
2 really nice ideas there
though im going to resist the fan
reminds me of the DFI fan
EDIT and what sort of fanciness do you have on the CPU holder?
Is is possible to hardflash the right bios in my P4P800?
never heard of it before.
You are right. A heatsink that is hot as hell is a good sign because that heat is not in the chip.Quote:
Originally Posted by blink hi
Mounting for the mach II cooler :DQuote:
Originally Posted by AndrewZorn
i have a problem with my p5w dh
i cant set vcore there is only auto.
cpu is a E6600 Retail.
pleas i need help
this problem has come up many times.
it happened to me once, but it went away somehow.
try taking out your cmos battery and wait for 1 minute.
put it back in, power it up and hope that you have more options.
if this doesn't help, do a search. there have been a lot of methods listed.
You need to turn off C1E & Speedstep in the BIOS; it's under the CPU Configuration Page.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEVIL_DK
Anyone tips so I can get around mij 435MHz FSB Wall without vmods ?
disable hyperpath 3
increase vmch for sure
Didn't helpQuote:
Originally Posted by m0da
what??
well then here are more basic steps:
increase vdimm, vcore, and vfsb as well.
make sure your memory can handle the frequency and timings with the given voltage.
Damn, i don`t know what`s going on?!?! I cant get fsb over 422. My e6300 is primestable @ 7x422. 7x424 it boots up, but if i start prime, superpi etc, it will crash. With chipset i have done the same as the freecableguy at the beginning of the thread + i have volcano12 fan blowing to the heatsink. The temperaturi is at 1,65v ~39-40 in idle...
Reallynice and simple mods:
http://vr-zone.com/?i=3876&s=1
Any1 can report haw it works ?
I`ll give it a try when my mobo returns.
What pencil to use?...just "write" all the resistor? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Zulusman
You can use any pencil but a 2B and HB pencil is good i thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Prelim
wow.. that very simple mods..
anyone can confirm its working? :D
i dont wanna blow my P5w
Hi guys,
i have a problem. my dh has the bios 504, now i got a 6600 stp6 b2 and it doesn´t start. i try to hotflash because i got no other chip here but allways afudos tells me "bios file size doesn´t match the existing bios size"
i don´t know whats wrong ...
is there any command in afudos to erease the bios first completly? or is there any other possibility?
thanks
Hi where can we get the 801 modded bios? there is a guy on OCAU that has it and it lets you raise the Vmch upto 1.85v through bios.
Never heard there is a modded 801 bios ?and VMCH1.85V ...?
AFAIK there is only hardmod for ur board to use VMCH over 1.65V.
I would call Asus up and ask them to send you a new BIOS, just complain some and you shouldnt have to pay anythingQuote:
Originally Posted by Mr.President
have you tried /pbnc /n ?Quote:
Originally Posted by ruler22
email chainbolt and he will send it to you via email...actually i was hoping someone here would host it, by all reports it is modified by Asus to allow mch at 1.85v. I dare say in a short while Asus will release an improved bios which also includes the 1.85v mch option.Quote:
Originally Posted by gotheb1ues
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
what does that mean?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crankybugga
Who is brainlessbolt? Not registered here.
On the pencil mod, it says something about lowering the resistance in steps... makes no sense, how would that happen in steps if you drew the line as shown?
Graphite conducts electricity. The more graphite the more electrcity conducted, thus the resistance is lowered. In other words, the thicker and heavier the the layer of graphite the LESS resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
Send me a link to the file.. ill be more than happy to host it. Ive been hosting a lot of beta bios for gigabyte and msi so far.
I´m interested about this modded bios...
heh, ill be more than happy to dl it (from you of course :D)Quote:
Originally Posted by Haltech
1.85 sounds niiice
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruler22
I just called them: "There is no possibility to send a new chip ......"