Its easy to go to 3ghz but some of us are having trouble getting a good oc. I cant even get my q6600 stable at 3.6ghz.Quote:
Originally Posted by aoch88
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Its easy to go to 3ghz but some of us are having trouble getting a good oc. I cant even get my q6600 stable at 3.6ghz.Quote:
Originally Posted by aoch88
steve30x
some quads simply are not capable of it. If vcore~1.45-1.55 + vtt~1.4 + good heatsink and 3600 still unstable - this is that case.
Im not arguing that Darth Vader. But what Im thinking might be wrong is that maybe it also could be the V1.1 of this motherboard could also be at fault. I could be wrong though.
Anyway I have OCCT running in the background with all 4 cores @ 100% and I have mine set to 3.5ghz and it is stable so far. Ill leave the stress test run for 8 hours.
I have the V1.1 Motherboard too and I can get to 3.6GHz no problem, at a fairly low vCore of 1.4475V. It runs Prime stable at that speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by steve30x
Any higher and I need to go over 1.5V for the tiniest of gains and I start getting stability issues. I think the droop may be the problem. The temps start getting high quickly once over 1.5V.
I can boot at 4GHz (1.59+V) but once I start doing anything it bombs out.
I'm switching cases next week and will try the vdroop mod, I think I could get a stable 3.8GHz+.
Perhaps if I lap my Q6600 at the same time I might get it running at a usable temperature.
I am using 4 sticks of Corsair Dominator 8500C5 1GB, they don't seem to interfere with higher overclocks.
I've tried with just two of them and overclock settings are no more stable. Nor can I go further than with the 4 sticks.
Can't seem to push them or tighten the timings past the rated 5-5-5-15 1066MHz.
Just after I posted the last time my computer rebooted without warning again. So Ive changed my settings and I have the CPU on 100% load for over 2 hours so its looking good @ just below 3.5ghz.
Its definately my CPU then but 3.5ghz is still a good OC in my books. Yeah I can boot up @ 4ghz myself but windows wont bootup for me. Anyway Ill be upgrading my watercooling soon which could also be my problem.Quote:
I have the V1.1 Motherboard too and I can get to 3.6GHz no problem, at a fairly low vCore of 1.4475V. It runs Prime stable at that speed.
Any higher and I need to go over 1.5V for the tiniest of gains and I start getting stability issues. I think the droop may be the problem. The temps start getting high quickly once over 1.5V.
I can boot at 4GHz (1.59+V) but once I start doing anything it bombs out.
For sure, 3.5GHz is a great overclock. I was surprised when I found how high these G0 quads are able to go. They definitely hit a wall though and require a huge jump in voltages to break through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by steve30x
I upgraded my cooling from Air to Water when mine hit and I was able to go that last litte bit extra without compromising longevity with high temperatures. You may find the same, I had stuck at about 3.2GHz on air and only went to 3.6GHz when I put the Water in.
I noticed someone on here that had gotten over 4GHz with fairly low vcore, I guess it's just down to individual chips at the end of the day.
Another thing I found was that the beta BIOS 16.4 temps where 20c higher than actual, I moved back to beta BIOS 16.3 and they went back to 'normal'.
So im gonna build my 2nd rig up tonight and wish to get my Q6600 go up to 3.4Ghz so need advice on what volts and bios would bo best to enable me to get that. Im also wanting to run 4gb of dominator 8500c5d 1066Mhz if thats possible so any advice would be great.
Thanks Paul.
SetFSB doesnt work with the IP35 Pro?
I get an SMBus Error, when i click GetFSB.
I think im using Beta 04 bios. It may be that the bios is reporting the temps too high and rebooting but I could be wrong. As for my watercooling , well it isnt great. Even @ 1.55v my CPU is hitting 69 celcius according to Core Temp and Everest. I will be changing my radiator from a single to a double and I might change the CPU block also. But I had to bump my VCore up to 1.55v to get a stable 3.5ghz. Its tsill stress testing just beyond 3 hours now. I wont consider it 100% stable until it passes an 8 hour test.Quote:
Originally Posted by th3joker
hmm looks like i have a normal IP35 and NOT a pro. (i don't use SLI..) i saw the IP35 only supports 800mhz memory and the pro 1066. I will buy 1200mhz memory. Will i be able to let my memory run at full capacity?(if i let's say run my cpu at 3.6ghz?)
I have the Thermochill PA120.3 Triple Rad and an XSPC Dual Rad, I initially had my 8800GTS and Q6600 in the same loop on the XSPC Dual Rad but found it was overwhelmed pretty quickly.
I added the second radiator and split the GPU - CPU loops to get the temps down, I also put the NB and SB on the bigger radiator with the CPU.
My biggest problem was the PWM, I haven't got a block for it yet and it gets pretty hot even with the heatpipe mod. I found during stress testing the temps where getting to 90c+ and causing reboots. I have an 80mm fan pointing at it now during stress testing.
I have the XSPC X20 Pro watercooling kit. What I have been noticing in the past 4 hours is my CPU temps are dropping slowly. It all started at 69 celcius and now after 4hours and 10 minutes of stress testing my CPU is down to 65 celcius. Maybe my thermal compound is starting to settle a bit now. Also I have 3 case fans. 2 x 140mm on the top of the case extracting air from the case at low speed and I have a 200mm fan on the sidepanel set to medium speed blowing air into the case. This should help with the cooling of the motherboard and PWM.
Something else I was thinking of, I was wondering if there is a possibility that my power supply might be limiting me in my overclocking? I have an old Antec TruePower 480w running the rig in my signature line. Only thing not listed there is 4 80mm case fans, a lite-on DVD burner, and a creative labs audigy platinum.
When I raise my CPU VTT and MCH it seems to have an effect on my PSU 3.3 and 5V rails. My 12V rail is pretty solid and on the 12V CPU connector it barely moves at all, but the current draw is what worries me.
The PSU gets warm, but never hot. Just can't shake the idea that I should be able to get 4ghz with less then 1.44 idle volts, If I could even get down to 1.40 idle volts I'd be happy.
What do you all think?
I doubt it. I cant get a stable 3.6ghz OC and I have 1200 watts of power. Theres two power supplies in my case. 550watt is for fans and hdds and a 650watt is for motherboard and GPU.
My voltages are as follows:Quote:
Originally Posted by steve30x
CPU: 1.5350 BIOS, 1.510-1.520 (CPU-Z 1.43), 1.50-1.520 (uGuru), 1.45v Load
DDR2: 2.2
VTT: 1.31
MCH: 1.68
ICHIO: 1.70
DDR2 Reference: +2%
CPU GTLREF 1-4: 69%
CPU is at 9x389=3.51Ghz
Memory is at 972Mhz (1:1.25) 5-5-5-15
Nice. As soon as I go above 3.5ghz my machine gets unstable. I am at 3.492ghz now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keetha3
When i do this bolt mod can i use AS5 to reseat my HS and would you remove the thermal pad and use the grease aswell?? I know i need to use the pad`s on the pwm`s or do i ??
Cheers Paul
keetha3, i stil say if you would up mem voltage and lower they others, you will be alright, i had the same problems as you.
But you're voltage is currently lower than mine...?Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion
Use AS5 on the CPU and the NB but *NOT THE PWM*.Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson
OK mines stable at 3.5ghz. Im going to strap a 60mm fan onto the PWM heatsink tomorrow and see if it helps.
HI guys. First post. I've spent the last couple of days reading through the 8,381 pages of this thread to try and get a feel for this motherboard. This is my 3rd build, the 1st was 4 years ago and the 2nd was 2 years ago.
I guess I'm spoiled because they both went as perfectly as could be. Only a couple of minor glitches and both machines just hummed along rock solid.
I'm now rebuilding my first machine with basically all new parts, except the case and optical drives. And all heck is breaking loose.
At first I kept getting all sorts of varying codes and problems. The random reboots, the C1 code, no video on occasion, etc. I finally figured out how to flash the bios and that went well. I was still having the same intermittant turn-offs and sometime turn-ons. Then I noticed that my cpu cooler was very, very close to the north bridge heatpipe. Not touching but very close.
Just to elimate any trouble ther, I put a thin piece of cardboard in between the two components. I finally got back into the bios again and looked through everything and and then tried to load Windows. I got it started and it was on the formatting section which takes a while.
Against my better judgement, I had to run an errand for about an hour. My wife got home while I was gone and called me. She said there was something on the monitor about what language did I want but before she could call me to ask what to do, the machine started a hi-lo siren and cycling on and off.
I think I may really be screwed now. Every time I turn it on I get that alarm and no video. It will either cycle on and off or might stay on but still no video signal. I happened to have another video card and swapped that but no fix. Since all of the main parts are new, I can't really point to anything as a suspicious item.
The LED code I get is either 90 or 99, neither of which is on the error list in the manual. I'm really stumped. I'm by no means an expert at this computer stuff but my first two builds went so smoothly that I was expecting the same.
I really have no clue how to proceed now. Any help would be fantastically appreciated.
Turn the system off and remove power, after 10 seconds or so the led's should turn off on the motherboard. Then move the CMOS clearing switch below the Keyboard port at the back for about 10 seconds. Switch it back to original position and plug it back in and switch on, that may help it sounds like a CMOS issue after you updated the BIOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texray1
Thanks for the fast reply. In the time since I posted, I took the memory out again and swapped them around. I got the computer to boot again and I'm reinstalling Windows XP. It's back to the formatting stage. My big concern is that I have flakey memory or the motherboard is bad. Several times along the way messing with the mem chips would help, at least temporarily. I dont' have any replacement ram of that type to try if it screws up again. And my old motherboard won't accept this newer ram either so it's hard to play swaptronics with those two items to see which might be the trouble, assuming I have more problems.
For now I'm waiting for the format. I'm not going anywhere this time.