Perhaps, but it is on the DFI "approved" list for this motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by doakh
Corsair XMS DDR2-800 2x1GB.
Perhaps, but it is on the DFI "approved" list for this motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by doakh
Corsair XMS DDR2-800 2x1GB.
Intel E6300 w/Xigmatek HDT-S1283, XFX 7900GT, 2x1GB Corsair XMS DDR2-800, 2xSamsung SH-S203B, WD 640GB hdd, Corsair 520HX.Quote:
Originally Posted by Praz
You're right...it really is too bad I don't have time to go through 190 pages, but working 2 jobs 6 days a week will do that to a person. :)
Try booting up with only one stick of ram in the closest slot to the cpu (green slot). If that doesn't work try the other stick by itself. I keep a cheap stick of ddr2 800 with low v requirement on hand just for booting up. It cost $8 an it comes in handy. If those sticks are D9, and you've been using them in another board, they might need a tad more juice than the board provides at default settings. Once you get into the bios, bump the vdimm to like 2.05v, restart, power down once you get back in bios, put both stick in and voila.
OK...I reseated the cpu, hooked it up outside the case (w/a different PSU) & it got to the post screen. I then reinstalled it back in the case (glad I invested in a case w/a removable mb tray!), turned it on & it did the same thing. I thought maybe the mounting screws were too tight, so I loosened them up a tad, restarted, same thing. Then I unhooked the PSU in the case (Corsair 520HX) & hooked up the 24 & 8 pin power w/a different PSU (BFG 800W), held down the reset, then the power button on the mb for 4 seconds, hit the power & it posted. I then hooked up the Corsair again, held down the reset & power for 4 seconds, hit the power button & it posted.
I'm formatting the hdd now & getting ready to install XP.
Dunno what was wrong, but it's working & that's all that matters, yes? :)
BTW, in regards to the memory, did I read the manual right in that if i'm installing 2 sticks I put them in DIMM 1 & 2 (green & yellow)? My other motherboards, when using dual channel, had 1 stick in DIMM 1 & the other in DIMM 3.
Thanks again for the help.
I had two days of trouble shooting with every combination of hardware I had and I have to say it was frustrating, but it paid off in the end as it has been the best MoBo I have ever used.
I am still impressed that I want nothing to do with any other motherboard untill Nahelem. :D
No, you did'nt. For DC operation you use both sticks in the green slots, or both sticks in the yellow slots.Quote:
Originally Posted by JGKC9AYC
Hi guys.
I have problems to buy good cooling for my C2D.
Witch cooler come in on the board : DFI P35 T2R LP UT.
I have about 40-50 €.
Give me 3-4 sample to buy.
On noobs polish forum nobody wants to help me . I want something to get in on this motherboard without any problems.
PS sorry for my english .
thermalright ultra 120 extremeQuote:
Originally Posted by BorysPL
Welcome to Xtreme Systems :welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by BorysPL
Google air / water cooling roundup & see what you get.
Here's a very decent thread by AzraelDarkangel here at XS http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=106971
Air : Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme
Water : D-TEK Fuzion v1 / 2
CN :)
Thx guys for xtreme professional :)
I watching many air cooling but be one warning - no compatible ;)
Noctua NH-U12F - this not better ? mayby no compatible?
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme - witch cooler 120mm ? NOCTUA ?SCYTHE?FANDER ?
nothin better that 120 extremeQuote:
Originally Posted by BorysPL
I thought that the TRUE had verticle fit issues with the NB HS. I just did a P35 DK build and had to go horizontal.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
yup needs nb needs to be shaved a few mmQuote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
I like UT, but I dont like the color tone it have
the triditional orange and yellow is much better
Has anyone overclocked a E7200 with this board yet?? I have this same board and cpu but I was wondering others results with this same setup.
Thanks
With how awesome this board is I think I could put up with Gigalol colors.... actually on second thought. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by tetete
True fit vertical on my UT. Just had to be sure to tighten down the heatpipe/NB assembly. I also run an Achilles on it. Had to trim off 2 bottom fins, but it's also cooler than lapped true.
Had some time and it is cool outside so did a bit of open window messing about.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../Q66004ghz.jpg
Will be working on stability and mem in the next bit.
Package is going out tomorrow Cantan. I will have tracking for you after work. I really appreciate your kind words in your last msg.
nice turtle i think i gonna take my board outa retirement
Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
I think it deserves it :up:
i recently bought this board (3-4 days) and today when i powered on my pc it shut down and it smelled like something was fried. so looking closely on the mainboard and i could see a fried chip there right next to the NB FAN connector. i had a nexus fan there (no pwm) ... fan is still working. but the fan connector is DEAD (Smart Guardian showing "000000000" rpm on Chipset Fan)
:(
you can see in the pictures below. now i really don't know, is it safe to keep this motherboard like this? (i dont mind the fan connector because i have a fan controller) or should i RMA it? do they cover this?:confused:
I'd be RMA'ing that as soon as possible. No point in risking a possible problem in the future, when it may be out of warranty.
Hey guys. Something odd going on here that hopefully someone can shed some light on. It has been many months since I bothered tweaking with the bios since I have it pretty much set where I want it for 24/7 use. I have had the 3/16 bios flashed since its release and have not changed it. I currently, and have always had my Vdimm in bios set to 2.00v. This has ALWAYS read between 1.89-1.90v in software readouts such as Everest. The past week or so I noticed the reading was up to 1.92v which I found odd. Just checking now it is reading 1.94v. It is clearly going up and I have no clue why. The second jump to 1.94 is what prompted me to hopefully get an answer on it. I understand it is only a software reading and should be taken as so but with months of it reading 1.90v, why is it now reading 1.92-1.94? What would cause this to happen. I am worried something may be wrong and at some point it may shoot like 2.5v through my ram and fry it without me even knowing.
Hopefully someone can shed some light. I am using latest Everest 4.50.1408.
Andrew, Got a link to the new Everest 1408 Beta (I have a valid license)?
Could it be caused by Everest software upgrades?
I agree, even though a difference of 2% is small it's weird if that is the only voltage that's increasing.
I'll do you one better, how is latest 4.50.1412?
http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...px4lsk2qtn.zip
And yes It is weird. VTT, NB and Vcore have not budged at all but Vdimm has. I has actually hit 1.95v now? =(. Is there seperate chips that maintain seperate voltages per item on the board or does one chip do it all?