Yes I noticed the same thing, glad it isn't just me.Quote:
Originally Posted by [HTO]Hunter
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Yes I noticed the same thing, glad it isn't just me.Quote:
Originally Posted by [HTO]Hunter
My board, but not my result, cause I didn't take a picture of mine!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_oslo
http://www.abload.de/thumb/21x226ty0g.jpg
Thanks to RomeoJ!!!
The new ek full board block is out, and looks amazing..
http://www.oxfordgraphix.com/ek.jpg
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/ek...d7-nickel.html
Wow that looks great. Pity i have already stuck hetpipes back on :lol; :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickles24
A few recent updates to Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 Living Review:
1) Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 - The naked truth
http://www.images.clunk.org.uk/revie...D7/IMG_2928.jp
2) Voltage Measuring Points
http://www.images.clunk.org.uk/revie...IMG_2307-a.jpg
3) 4.4Ghz 21x210 Ram x8 1,680Mhz 7-7-7-19
http://www.images.clunk.org.uk/revie...s/21x210@8.png
WOW! Think im gonna have to get me one of those! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Pickles24
Here my highest possible Settings with 21x Multiplier!!
http://g.imagehost.org/t/0177/22300_2.jpg
Oc Nub, as I mentioned earlier I have a ton of watercooling parts laying around and I was thinking of setting up this i7 rig for water. Your temps look pretty good but I see you have your rad pulling from a window ac unit, have you tried running it without the window unit? How are the temps? Here is a list of the parts I have laying around that I was going to throw together :
Swiftech MCP-655
Black Ice Pro II rad (240) or Swiftech MCR220
Old Swiftech Apogee extreme Duty Block (I will buy this adapter)
Large 2 Bay Res
10' clearflex 38 tubing
The only part I would need to buy would be the adapter bracket for the Apogee and a few fittings, I would be in my home office which stays around 68F. In your opinion will I see a noticeable improvement in temps or will my i7's heatload exceed a single 240 rad?
I think it would be worth trying, you could also add the second rad to the loop if need be. I haven't tried a 240 rad so I'm not sure what kind of temps to expect. I am not that experienced at water cooling, maybe someone else will have a better idea what to expect.Quote:
Originally Posted by [HTO]Hunter
I will test after work to see temps with no ac but I believe they were around 10c higher.
Did a quick run when I got home from work. With the room at 77f my temps after 5 passes LinX hit 80c. Normally the room isn't this warm but the wife is has the heat blasting.
I will be going back to my UD6 board tonight. I know this is a faster platform but I miss that board, and the platform. There are no games out that I like anymore so I have no need for cf or sli, and for a single card I prefer my UD6-870 rig.
can some people perhaps confirm that the waterblock on the ud7 is copper and has 3/8" fittings please?
cause I'm finding some contradicting statements... (7,5mm vs 10mm outer diameter fittings)
In the gigabyte manual:
http://europe.giga-byte.com/FileList...x58a-ud7_e.pdf
This implies fittings with a outer diameter of 19/64" (or more likely 5/16", since I don't think 19/64" exists)Quote:
For the waterblocks on the North Bridge heatsink, we recommend tubes with inner diameter of 7.5mm and outer diameter of 10mm
In Supershanks review:
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/revie...html#post79973
this clearly states 3/8" as outer diameter of the fittingsQuote:
The waterblock is copper on the UD7 unlike the aluminium ones used previously, which is a plus as most people use copper blocks, so you won't be running nixed metal blocks. There are no alternate barbs, the fittings are 3/8" (10mm) so if your using thicker tubing you'll need to use something like PrimoChill Reducing socket 13mm to 10mm (1/2' to 3/8').
please also mention in which country and when you bought the mobo (in case there are differences)
thanks!
Finally stopped wining :)
Playing with different C-states (disabling the C1E, and enabling "C3/C6/C7 State Support") helped lowering the intensity, but couldn't stop it totally with LLC= "Level 2". It was LLC= "Standard" that could finally shut her up, totally.
In my experience, with LLC= "Level 2" the lower Vcore results in more wining (more intensity in high-pitch sound). In my 2 different 24/7 setup, the @4.22GHZ(222x19) 1.2v has been wining much more than @4.51GHZ(215x21) 1.34v. Also, lower-Vcore = more-wining.
The combination of LLC= Standard + disabling the C1E + enabling C3/C6/C7 State Support, has stopped it totally independent of the Vcore. :)
@ OC Nub thx man, I went ahead and ordered the block adapter and fittings today, my room stays cool so I should be fine and like you said I can always add the second rad :up:
@ Mastakilla, I was curious so I tested some clearflex 60 I had which is 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD and it went on without too much force but did grab so with a clamp I think 3/8 ID is good but 5/16 would be very snug and possibly a better seal.
Wow, nice. Really weird though, I have no whine at all on mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_oslo
4.83G pass linx 50 run on water :rofl:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...g?t=1264515192
dude, I have a really nice w3520. i'll trade you for that wimpy i9...
LOL, that wimpy i9... is actually a Intel 32nm Xeon Westmere DP 3.20G , and it isn't exactly cheap.
Good job, this looks good. These 32nm Quad seams to handle much more Vcore with less heat. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kone
I've been hoping that some batch# of these 32nm Quads can hit 5GHZ for 24/7 use on air/water, and this is a really promising start .
Thanks for the info Hunter!Quote:
Originally Posted by [HTO]Hunter
Can you tell me if you bought it from EU or US? (or some place else)
also other people are still allowed to say the diameter of their UD7 fittings ;)
I purchased my UD-7 from newegg a US online retailer.
Some quick tests to see how it works with LLC= "Standard" and looks good.
It is a huge Vdroop(compared to Level 2), Vcore= 1.30625 (BIOS set) ends up as 1.24v/1.21v (Idle/Load). But I'm keeping it, not only because stopped wining, but seams to be running stable with 2 higher BCLK:)
PCIe = 103MHZ, not only boots with BCLK224, but also seams to be stable roo:)
w3520 @4.25GHZ (224x19) 1.21v :cool: 30 min OCCT stable :)
http://img.techpowerup.org/100126/Ca...8-20100127.jpg
PUMP IT UP TO x21 BABY!!!
LOL, I would love to, but I don't dare to try it. My air cooling would have some major objections.
I couldn't get it it over 4.5GHZ(215x21) 1.34v yet (not without breaking my own cool&quiet requirements).
What PCI-Express frequency are you using? And how much did it help?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_oslo
Woah so increasing the PCi-E clock helps the overclock? If so I think I might have 4.5 GHz in this chip.
Only to break the 222bclk barrier. Below that nope.Quote:
Originally Posted by Intratech
I just ordered some reducing sockets (1/2' to 3/8') from DD, they should be here tomorrow, and I'll post how they do with the stock block. I am running a X-Flow Black Ice Pro III with a single bay res, and room temp around 65f. Should be plenty of rad for the nb and cpu. If not I have another Black Ice Pro single 180mm I could add into the mix.